MTFCA Forum

Scott_Conger

email sent

Scott_Conger

I can clearly see in your picture that you have NOT broken the drive tang off, thus the bolt will simply screw the helicoil out. Every time. Helicoils are larger than the hole and expand tightly into them. They are used in through-holes in industry everywhere. After installing ANOTHER helicoil, with...

Scott_Conger

https://cartype.com/pages/1292/gutbrod

Scott_Conger

Mike, I am sending you an email.

Scott_Conger

Maybe want to rethink that advice Jerry

Photo courtesy of: Dan Treace

Scott_Conger

done deal...

Scott_Conger

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=16357&p=123958#p123958

Scott_Conger

email sent

Scott_Conger

Hi Dan
email sent...

Scott_Conger

.005" -.010"
5 to 10 thousandths
Max

Scott_Conger

email sent

Scott_Conger

Non-original

Scott_Conger

http://www.mtfca.com/encyclo/ignition2.pdf

Scott_Conger

Hopefully, you'll find a kind benefactor. Given that 25% of it's price is just the material cost alone, for the remaining $ return, I wouldn't fire up a lathe for the work and time involved. The list price is a bargain. Hope your search is not a long one.

Scott_Conger

I should have been more clear as to what to look for: note how far ccw the timer housing is. It just lifts off when the bolt is loosened and the tension "finger" is released. I cannot fathom why it will not rotate fully for you but you may come to a better understanding soon.

Scott_Conger

http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/50 ... 1423931331

Scott_Conger

"mtfca your subject"

Scott_Conger

I don't know the guy and only know that the complaint has been raised multiple times now by the same person, as Walter has pointed out. Reread what dick/brass guy said: ...and the 4th wheel did not have the correct amount of spokes. Nowhere did it say any were missing. I do have more faith in the ve...

Scott_Conger

and so David did
thus taking a pleasand and positive thread in an absolutely unnecessary direction

Scott_Conger

Scott_Conger

might the worst drop in GDP in recorded history have anything to do with it?

Scott_Conger

Last call for 2020. Not going to keep pimping these things and annoying folks wanting to see their ads on top. The last of these will likely go to a couple of buyers who buy bulk, so if you thought you wanted one, now is the time. Thanks for looking and have a safe time for the remainder of summer a...

Scott_Conger

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Original-HALLA ... 3444480846

Scott_Conger

Tom

You had contacted me in March regarding this and I am glad you were able to sell this. I hope that you ended up pleased with the outcome after all was said and done.

Scott_Conger

Bob

I would take them all. I will call your place with CC info.
thank you

Scott_Conger

..and again..

Scott_Conger

so a head-off deep cleaning is in order soon

no, it isn't.

Scott_Conger

....

...

Scott_Conger

2 23/32" LONG per Ford drawing

Scott_Conger

with all due respect, David, there is no good place to start to say where you have gone off the rails with this, so will simply post this and be gone. A #14 screw has a basic diameter of .242, regardless of thread pitch, and the Ford drawing says what it says, and that is why 1/4-24 screws will not ...

Scott_Conger

...and again...

Scott_Conger

Do some research on "torque vs. HP" for the Model T and then come back with the results. The question will answer itself.

Scott_Conger

: baby seat.jpg (27.43 KiB) Viewed 953 times

Scott_Conger

Thank you Don

have someone contact me and let me know total and your prefered payment method.

Scott_Conger

Actually, I see a Fastenall at one town over, so please let me know total and we'll make this happen. Thanks.

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Don

I was waiting to find out what the cost to my zip code would be...82435...didn't hear back...
I will look to see if there is even a place near here that will accept it. Not sure about Fastenal nearby...
thanks

Scott_Conger

Full Flow Float Valves by itself... in stock: $25 Full flow float valves 1.gif Float valve install tool , limited quantity in stock, and only available with purchase of valve - add $40 Float Valve install_removal tool.gif And finally (no picture) a Lead washer to ENSURE no weeping past carb/valve i...

Scott_Conger

Ron

I have sent an email to you

Scott_Conger

Joe Reid You have provided me with what I was looking for in words and pictures. Many many thanks to you! Since you have no clearance issues with it, I believe that I will do the same. My clasp did not have countersinks, but I was afraid that round head screws would not fit and was considering oval ...

Scott_Conger

Thank you for your reply, John My car is a Feb car, too, but it is the steel version, so your wood firewall detail would not be much help. The only info I have is that the very first ones had the clasp affixed via machine screws and shortly therafter went to directly riveted on. Mine were screwed on...

Scott_Conger

This is a low firewall, steel cowl runabout with a separate hood clasp. This was a carry-over from wood firewalls, where the hood rod clasp was NOT permanently attached to the steel firewall. The later low cowl steel firewalls had the clasp riveted to the firewall. This is the very first version... ...

Scott_Conger

Walt

it is nice to see you easing into being an "old hand" at this stuff. Looks like you're doing real well.

Scott_Conger

I agree that Mike's products have a great reputation and you won't likely be disappointed if you use them. And, having said that, I won't suggest that you use original equipment if you're not inclined. And I won't engage in childish name calling if you were to use modern technology. Each person's ch...

Scott_Conger

pull hard while unscrewing...it will come out
If it is not coming out easily, which it isn't, that means there are threads left in the pan to some extent.

Your choice in adhesives/epoxies once it's out, though you may find that a new petcock and fuel resistant teflon tape will work just fine.

Scott_Conger

Mark

that really IS a nice job of it. It never occured to me what one would have to go through to make a cut-off have a top. Well done.

Scott_Conger

Or, heaven forbid, 4 rebuilt coils and drive the car for another 75 years.

Scott_Conger

Last call to buy
There is no point bumping over the myriad of ads that are posted
After July 4, they will be available only as an option when buying Full Flow Float Valves, and not by themselves.

Please email me directly if you are interested

Scott_Conger

Dan

is this the creampuff coupe?

Scott_Conger

well, I'm not to old to learn something new. Thanks.

Scott_Conger

I'm not ready to believe it's bronze. Throw a magnet on it.

Scott_Conger

removing .002 from 1 and 3 area will open that gap around the 2:00 area up and SHOULD reduce bottom 8"00 area a little and you would be golden.

Scott_Conger

Mike one other thing that happens, is that the actual cast iron seat machined into the carb body can be rough from abuse or old rust, as well as excessive pitting or porosity. The float valve may seal like a Zip-Loc but fuel still weeps past the hard red fiber washer between the valve body and the c...

Scott_Conger

RV they come with the "wrong" metal stems vulcanized very nicely into the tube. They worked great on my friend's Torpedo, and of course take the Repro nuts/hardware. I've done a lot of study of these things, Smith and Jelf being among the two best at unraveling it for me. I've even sleuthed out all ...

Scott_Conger

Yeah Stan, I obviously need to work on my reading comprehension!

Scott_Conger

Stan as a fan of live steam, and having read nearly every Model Engineer magaine printed from 1965 to 1990, I am acquainted with the Super 7. Not so common here but I understand that they are just a fabulous lathe and absolutely perfectly suited to the work you do. I think you made a great score to ...

Scott_Conger

Steve interesting that you mention the Hartford tubes. I really like those things, myself. I had to change 4 tires for a friend on his Torpedo and he needed all 4 new tubes. I was quite pleased with the Hardfords and he has had nothing but success. In fact I just specified one to a supplier the othe...

Scott_Conger

Yes........

Scott_Conger

From the pictures, it appears that the inside face of the new gear may be a bit inset, or thinner, compared to the old gears. If this is the case, then I would expect the smaller ID of the new gear to measure larger as it is further up the taper. The test for this would be to measure the thickness o...

Scott_Conger

don't misunderstand...I mean for 2nd shot at it...I'm not saying you're done...you have the book and the numbers...it's up to you to decide when you're done

Scott_Conger

this is no guess as to what you do or don't have going on, but only to say that some rocking while in place is a perfectly normal occurence. It is the magnatude of it which points to trouble, or not...

Scott_Conger

for itteration #2, that's looking darn good...myself, I will never install another mag ring that wasn't surface ground...what a difference in the consistency of your numbers...sweet.

Scott_Conger

Other than the chuck key, virtually anything on the table is worth $25 by itself. Not to mention the chuck on the lathe. Though Gene has been clear regarding what it should be used for, which is understandably limited use, this is an absolute steal for someone who wants to fool with bushings, etc., ...

Scott_Conger

all very encouraging.

many thanks to all respondents...I think this will be a done deal.

Scott_Conger

This is not to slight anyone who has responded, but you're not going to get much better advice than you have already gotten from Carnegie. What is your end game, here? Do you percieve that "A" wheels are going to be superior to "T" wheels? Knowing what you're trying to really accomplish may lead to ...

Scott_Conger

My opinion and it is opinion only: those bands were made to fit in a later hogs head, pre-Ford removable band design (almost certainly won't fit in an aluminum hog's head, though). Understanding what the designer intended, I don't see why they won't work when properly installed, though with the thic...

Scott_Conger

Thank you Jeff.

Scott_Conger

Mark

good catch

Dan

I wondered where that stub came from...I figured it was not something ginned up in a home garage

thank you both for great observations

Scott_Conger

You can mess with that, as it looks like someone made a stub to go into the hole of the original (now incorrect) adjuster bolt. Or buy this:

from here: https://www.modeltford.com/item/3419B.aspx

Scott_Conger

I have been very pleased with Firestones for the last 5-6 years but am contemplating a purchase of Riversides due to $$ constraints right now.

I know "they're all made in the same place", and don't need that reinforced.

Simply looking for actual use an wear reports. Thank you.

Scott_Conger

Steve, Yes, of course. Thank you and I will fix the heading.

I was changing tires yesterday and had "Firestone" on the brain, I guess.

thanks again.

Scott_Conger

You'll be pumping about 13V into your 8V battery with a 12V cutout. Uh-uh.
This is a bad area to be playing games

Scott_Conger

No problem Hank

I bet that frosts your flakes, though.

FOUND what I need

Scott_Conger

Kind of a stretch to ask here, but I know that there is an amazing breadth of industrial experience lurking out there in Forum-land. So, does anyone know what the bent wire that is, or likely is, that is staked into the threaded plug on "X" plugs? I have my suspicions, but no longer have acces to a ...

Scott_Conger

email sent

Scott_Conger

Since Naugahyde was a contemporary competitor and can still be bought, I can't help but think you will be able to replicate what you need by doing an internet search using "Naugahyde" for the search.

Scott_Conger

I second Les' post. This is how I treat radiators and when possible, keep pretty much everything out of the block other than cooland and distilled water. It's remarkably effective, and you don't need 30% vinager from hardware stores, in fact that concentration brings its own set of cautions and head...

Scott_Conger

Good for you Richard

good luck

Scott_Conger

Mark sorry to hear about the injury! I view pushing "down" on a T crank like I view pointing an unloaded gun at someone...I just don't do it. There is always a miniscule chance that something unaccounted for can creep in. I have no doubt that you view this similarly, and it is good to point out that...

Scott_Conger

Richard based on your comments I am wondering if your pedal isn't already made for replaceable bands. Here's the deal...originally the low pedal shaft was so long, it reached all the way across the band and fit into a hollow adjustment bolt on the right side. It was so long, you could not even get t...

Scott_Conger

Good for you a word of caution: ensure that the slope of the floorboard is not so steep as to limit the natural full travel of low pedal and brake (and reverse), and that the slots in the floor board will not limit same. IE, if pedals hit floorboard necessitating tightening the bands too much to act...

Scott_Conger

Richard

your last comment made me smile. Rather than go through a discussion as to what you need to do, I'll post this for you where Dan Treace did a good job documenting the process. Good luck and report back!

http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/33 ... 1386590814

Scott_Conger

Wayne

your observations are appreciated. thank you.

Scott_Conger

Thanks Dan

it WAS an interesting project, but not an economical one for a hand-cranked custom shop. That's why I didn't make more. Can't remember, but I think I made maybe 5? I know I numbered them and kept #1. They really do work well.

this is what Dan was talking about:

Scott_Conger

Dan

am glad to hear it works well. There were a couple of design elements that I had to guess at and tried to keep it as robust as the original. Stay well my friend.

Scott_Conger

there are hundreds if not thousands of low cowl steel firewall cars out there. No one can lift a hood and look at the screw and look at the lacing?

am still seeking answers to both of my original questions.

thank you.

Scott_Conger

Brent, that is great news and so good of you to post an epilogue. Thank you.

Scott_Conger

A hobbiest sells me something and takes my money, and we're both happy with the deal. He gets to spend the money on something he really wants, and I now have something I really need. Let's say he could have sold it for more somewhere else, but didn't, and that was his choice. He doesn't have the mon...

Scott_Conger

Now that I finally realize this is a '26 with a fuel shut off built into the sediment bulb 18" away from the carb. I don't even recommending a shut off at the carb. Open the hood and turn it off. It's an antique car. If it's a burden, then I'm guessing that the front end isn't getting oiled, floorbo...

Scott_Conger

Well that is a gratifying and not-so-uncommon discovery as I can personally attest to. Good for you. with regards to electrical, Bill has opined correctly that an ohm meter is not sufficient to ensure electrical health in wiring in all cases. Wires which have continuity are not necessarily capable o...

Scott_Conger

That's a beautiful part for a great price. I spent 2 days welding and 2 more days dollying mine to get something worth painting. Would have gladly spent this much to save that work!

Scott_Conger

OK
last time
say buh-buy
back on the shelf and add this to the "no one wants one" list...not that I'm at all surprised. I'll use it soon enough and will be greatful I don't have to set up to make it.
thanks for looking

Scott_Conger

I'd be inclined to test on your normal (lower tank) setup. You might be surprised at the result.

In any event, some drips after shutoff from that location are not exactly unknown.

Scott_Conger

the only way I see to run it off of the switch is to use a low current relay (or you could go direct, but I wouldn't) and only run on battery. I have to say, though that your solution to putting in an electric valve for a leaking carb is like Boeing placing cushions along their flight route to minim...

Scott_Conger

Wayne, thanks a bunch for the response. Prior to posting, I found that Hap had responded a long time ago on this subject and said that the MTFCA CD/Boggess said they came both ways, with the first ones using the wood firewall "clips" screwed in place and then riveted later. I may just rivet mine, bu...

Scott_Conger

GOOD LORD it's another set of stinky Craftsman's!!!!!

I have an old set of nut drivers that when cooped up smell like, well, I'd say that "nasty old cheese" is a very kind and not too incorrect of a description.

Scott_Conger

This is a low firewall, steel cowl runabout with a separate hood clasp. This was a carry-over from wood firewalls, where the hood rod clasp was NOT permanently attached to the steel firewall. 1. I am seeking to find what HEAD was on the screws (2) used to secure the the clasp. I have the crusty rema...

Scott_Conger

https://www.modeltford.com/item/3004E.aspx

15% the price of a new radiator, or equivalent to 4 1/2 fill-ups in PA.

piece of mind: priceless

Scott_Conger

Jim you're a clever enough guy...take a look through the forums and you'll find several generator test setups. You need a battery, accurate ammeter and an ability to spin the generator. If you've read how to null the generator on the bench, be aware that in theory and 90+% of the time, you can do it...

Scott_Conger

Once you read Ron's response to your type of problem, I think you might rethink that line of reasoning (at least with respect to adjustment). If you're just interested in seeing what's what, might as well rebuild it while it's out. It's either working or it ain't and to figure that out, it doesn't n...

Scott_Conger

Kerry

thanks for sharing that. A fact that I did not know.

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