MTFCA Forum

bmklawt

Brake peddle

bmklawt

Large drum Rocky Mountain brakes with new lining and a Rocky Mountain brake pedal. $800.00 plus shipping
Make me an offer, as usual I have no clue what to charge so I am just throwing a number out there.

bmklawt

Still on the look out for a pair of these or just one, I'd even buy a broken one

bmklawt

Still looking

bmklawt

Looking for a pair of tail light brackets, looks like they've been discontinued.

bmklawt

More pictures

bmklawt

I have no clue what this is worth if anything make me an offer, don't be shy no offer is to low.
I can cram all of this in a Large flat rate box

bmklawt

Best offer I get by end of Sunday can have it all

bmklawt

Best offer by Sunday plus shipping

bmklawt

Best offer by Sunday, plus shipping

bmklawt

Two steering brackets with Ford script T932C, 1 looks a little warn, $25 plus shipping

bmklawt

1926 Rocky Mountain brake pedal $70.00 plus shipping

bmklawt

I have 2 sets 1927-27 axle housings, pick up, free, Holland MI 49423

bmklawt

Still looking for the striker plate

bmklawt

Searched but could not find specifics on how to install glass in windshield frames then in stanchions. 1, Do I wrap the glass in glass setting/bedding cloth tape I get at Lang's before inserting glass into frame. 2, Do I also use the setting/bedding tape or something else for under the clamp and eac...

bmklawt

So, here's the lowdown on my Model T misadventures: I figured I'd dive into the deep end, had Joe bell rebuild the engine. He got it purring like a kitten... well, more like a kitten with a smoker's cough, carburetor problems, that's on me. Then I meticulously pieced together the rest of the car, fr...

bmklawt

My brain hurts from reading all the post about what engine oil is best for a Model T, I'm sure modern day oil is far superior to what was available when my car was new in 1927. I would like to know is there any oil or probable more appropriate to ask is there any additives I should avoid that could ...

bmklawt

This may have been discuses before but I can't find it. Getting ready to install Rocky Mountain Brakes on my 27 Touring but first I need to put on new linings, is there a certain procedure I should follow to do this, to me it looks like I just start at one end and finish on the other, centering the ...

bmklawt

Front motor mount, spring clamp that came on my 1927 Touring, I would never figure out how to make this thing work.
A forum threat I stater asking about this https://www.mtfca.com/phpBB3/viewtopic. ... 25#p272725
Best offer plus the ride.

bmklawt

I too put new linings on my 1927 last year and I also had to sand the linings down, original bands, NOS drums, new cams, NOS Scandinavia linings. I marked up the face of the linings with a pencil and sanded until the pencil marks were gone, repeat until a snug fit then I took a candle and coated the...

bmklawt

I read somewhere on the forums that you could get a copy of the mechanical drawings and specs for the Hyatt roller bearings from the Henry Ford Museum, anyone have that and care to share or know what the drawing numbers are. The Hyatt roller bearing were the hardest part for me to find when I rebuil...

bmklawt

Magneto charging with rear earth magnets, I've used this for tractors and Hit and Miss magnetos and it works quite well, assume it would work for a T magnet. The author claims "The bare bones rare earth charger, as shown in Figures 5, 6 and 7, produced a field of 1110mT (1.11 Tesla), easily outperfo...

bmklawt

I have two if these lights I am going to use for brake and turn signals, lens is about 3-3/4 diameter. I see at Langs they have a red lenses for this and say they are for a 1915-27, is there a bracket for this lights for a 1927 Touring or do you just use the bracket from Langs part 3660TL

bmklawt

I'll take the 3 rings in the last picture, PM sent

bmklawt

Is here something special about wire wheel lug nuts.

bmklawt

I don't own a Ruckstell and here a lot of people talk about hill climbing and I'm just curious, can a Ruckstell get me up a hill a normal "T" couldn't get up?

bmklawt

I'll take one if still available

bmklawt

TRDxB2, that rotary cell phone is exactly what I have

bmklawt

I don't know much about electronics but can muddle my way through with a bunch of hand holding. The turn signal and running light are for safety the other stuff is just for fun. What I would like is to be able to read on my Iphone, O2 sensor, temp, RPM and GPS. The O2 sensor is so I know what is cor...

bmklawt

Didn’t know there was such a thing as a magneto charger, did a search and see you can build your own with a light and diode thing but what is a magneto trickle charger?

bmklawt

Searched the forums but could not find a answer to this. Is there a way to charge the 6 volt starting battery and a 12 volt accessory battery or two 6 volt batteries in series with the generator so I don't have to charge the 12 volt accessory battery with a battery charger. Like this option as I wou...

bmklawt

Will definitely have to hit up the driving school, adjusted the brake rod length and think I have that worked out, everything else seems to be adjusted right, appears most of the problem may be I just don't know how to drive a T.
Does anyone have an email for Gordon Koll?

bmklawt

Hoping I can find someone in West Michigan, Holland to be exact, who can teach me to drive my newly rebuilt 1927 Touring and also help me correctly adjust my bands, brakes and whatever needs adjusting, I've only driven a few blocks and I'm quite terrible at it.

bmklawt

I think this is to a Model T, come pick it up and hand me some money, I don't care how much, Holland MI

bmklawt

Took the car out for its first drive, didn't go well, mind you I've only driven a model T around a few blocks before I had the motor rebuilt. Seems to do low gear okay, I would have no idea of knowing if the band is slipping or correct, when I put it in high gear it just bogs right down, the motor f...

bmklawt

Both of these steering brackets have the number T932C, why does one have the step in it

bmklawt

1926-27 Touring wood body blocks.
Didn’t know if I had the right bocks on my car, bought new ones, I did have the right blocks, these are the ones I took off
$10.00 plus medium flat rate box

bmklawt

FS: Ok pair of 1926-27 rear spring perches
Best offer plus small flat rate box

bmklawt

Used universal joint, rivets are loose otherwise appears to be a very good U-joint.
Best offer plus medium flat rate box

bmklawt

New universal joint from Snyder’s I ended up not using. I could not get this to fit on my new rebuilt engine, the measurements seem right, it was just too much of a pain in the butt to try and figure out what the problem was with the engine in the car. Fit fine on a spare clutch plate I had on the s...

bmklawt

4 Champion X spark plugs, have no history on these, don’t remember where I got them.
Make me an offer plus small flat rate shipping

bmklawt

Did I do this right, Clutch spring adjustment Hand brake lever forward until adjusting bolt just drops off the cam Adjust clutch fingers to a clearance of 13/16” Clutch band adjustment Leave new bands adjusted as loosely as possible, and take them up a little at a time as they seat. Low pedal (left ...

bmklawt

Trying to adjust free neutral and the brakes, have a few questions, this is my first Model T, 1927 Touring, I believe I have home-made floorboard, and some of the adjustments are in relation to the floorboard. Am I in neutral when I push the clutch pedal down and the 3 clutch fingers just become loo...

bmklawt

Gotcha, parts on order. The radiator shell does fit over the thimble I was talking about the apron has slots. The springs are only 1/8" taller and the bottom thimble. I made new studs of the correct size, one side seems perfect the other is still to tight, I'll keep fiddling with it when I get the n...

bmklawt

"Missing trim pieces" are we talking on the radiator shell? would that have any bearing on the radiator fit. I'm totally guessing here, but it looks like and original radiator mounting flange is 1/8" thick, mine is .300" thick, so if I make a stud with the center of the cotter pin holes 3-7/16" cent...

bmklawt

I would argue I do have this correct per the drawing, most radiators I have seen look like the mounting flange is a single thickness, on mine the top and bottom sides of the radiator are bent at right angles and soldered to the flange making the flange 3 thickness of metal, if that makes any sense a...

bmklawt

My Radiator shell is steel, what does a 1927 radiator apron look like, mine has slots in that will only big enough to fit over the radiator mounting stud not over the thimble. There is a spring under the frame and one under the thimble, there is just not enough length in the studs to back he castle ...

bmklawt

I sanded the wood shelf blocks down to 1/2" from 5/8" thick, I filed all the solder boogers off the flange, I can get the radiator mounted now but believe it is still to tight. Most pictures I can get a close enough view of, it looks like the flange is about 1/8" thick and sits about an 1/8" off the...

bmklawt

Yes this is just a mock up, that is a stack of washers that measure .520 a collapsed spring measures .570, a collapsed spring would fit inside the lower thimble so I left that out for the mock up. The thickness of the radiator mounting flange and shell measure 3/8", my research tells me the correct ...

bmklawt

Looking for a tall radiator shell prefer a nice nickle one but will take anything that is in good shape.

bmklawt

1927 Touring, I can not see a way to mount the radiator with the springs, without having the radiator mounted solid to the hood shelf. the picture shows where the mounting hardware would end up if the springs where fully collapsed, using new spring, which when collapsed are shorter than the original...

bmklawt

I was changing the bearing on my Prius last week and they used these cotter pin looking things on the castle nuts and I thought they would be great to use on my 1927 Touring until I get the bugs worked out after rebuilding everything on this car, I cant find them because I cant figure out what there...

bmklawt

I rebuilt the carb, drilled out the plugs and cleaned the passages this time, check all the plugs, new Champion X, for spark and one seemed to be hit or miss so I replaced it, bought a new Anderson timer, originally tried with a used roller timer, bought the Anderson because I have never run a Model...

bmklawt

I timed the roller style timer with the timer gauge and found this to be way off, the No 1.coil would buzz when the No 1. piston was 1/4 to 1/2 down from TDC. The carburetor was leaking sometimes, I suspect because I was leaving the choke on for to long while cranking, I rebuilt the carburetor when ...

bmklawt

Well damn, when I got this car it had a distributor and I added the coils back in so this is my first experience with coils, from watching all the videos of how to start a Model T I believed the coils always buzzed and the timer just connected the coil to the spark plug at the correct time. Sure eno...

bmklawt

Tried to start my 1927 Touring after rebuilding everything, engine by Joe Bell, coils by The coil Doctor everything else by me, I turned the key to battery and the coils started buzzing, turned the gas on and hit the starter, it tried to start a couple of time but then the coils stopped buzzing and ...

bmklawt

What are all these 1926 tail lamp wiring doodads things are I see in this drawing?
Have no desire to install all this stuff just curious what it looked like from the factor for a 1927 Touring.

bmklawt

According to Lang's and Snyders the shoulder ended August 1926
Looks like maybe I need one from 1909-23, I see now that Langs has them

bmklawt

I need one manifold stud, the kind threaded on both ends, of coarse I can't find my old ones, I have bolts on there now but think I could better fit the hot air pipe by double nutting the end of a stud.

bmklawt

Here's the used U-joint I have

bmklawt

The trans driveshaft size does measure .880" X .882", I have a used U-joint that measures .860" would that be okay to use, the new U-joint I am trying to use measures .878" I could just try and mill a .0015" off each side.

bmklawt

Trying to install my engine, I can get the U-joint into the 4th main but can't get it to slide together the last 3/4" I can get the engine into place just fine without hooking to drive shaft, the square end of the U-joint measures .880" is this correct, I didn't think to see if the U-joint fit the 4...

bmklawt

The one on the left does not work, the threaded portion is not long enough, where is steps from threaded to flat it hits the out turned lip on the cross member.

bmklawt

Every time I work on my car I learn something new.
I think I have this right so far.

bmklawt

I'm still learning but this is what I think I know

bmklawt

I'll take best offer, any offer, plus shipping for this stuff, know idea whats its worth, I don't want them and don't want to throw them away. Ford wrench USA-M-01A-17014, open end 13/16", closed end 21/32" @ 2, Ford wrench USA-M-40-17014, open end 1", closed end 11/16" Sizes near as I can tell 2 ba...

bmklawt

Learned something new today, evidently there is a longer than the normal rear spring clamp (U bolt) and I need to find a pair of the long ones for my 1927 Touring. Let me know if you have 1 or 2 your willing to part with Picture from an old post https://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/822076/825854.ht...

bmklawt

Just thought of this, the cowl is bent up around the stanchions, sometime in it's past to looks like the car hit something at the stanchions and bent them back. Both front doors are a little hinge bound and look a smidgen higher on the striker side than the hinge side. It appears to me if I were abl...

bmklawt

Looking for an ammeter, I'll buy the whole ignition switch if needed.

bmklawt

I do have the support rod in from radiator to cowl also the hood hinge bars, hood does sit 1/2"to 3/4" above hood shelf, the radiator is sitting on the hood shelf with no hardware, I imagine the problem will only get worse when I put the radiator mounting hardware on, I do not have the engine in, wa...

bmklawt

The radiator on my Touring has never fit right, I had thought it was the frame, it was bent and welded, I bought a new frame and brought it to frame shop and had them make sure it was correct per the frame drawing I have. Now that I putting it together with the new frame I am having the same problem...

bmklawt

What's going on with the spring perch nut?
I don't have the wishbone on.

bmklawt

Don't know if this will help, the engine is not in the car.

bmklawt

I do use 600W oil, I am not trying to find out what to use I am just curious what "Fluid Grease" was back in 1927

bmklawt

The front spring on my 1927 Touring has 7 leaves, the replacement at Lang's and Snyder's shows it should be an 8 leaf spring, I just put in a wanted add for one but thought couldn't I just make a metal plate the same thickness as a single leaf and the size of the rubber pad that goes on top of sprin...

bmklawt

Looking for the front spring for my 1927 Touring

bmklawt

Reading the 1927 owners manual I saw Lubricating the Differential "Do not put too much grease in the differential housing. The housing should not be more than one-third full. The differential is supplied with the required amount of lubricant when the car leaves the factory. The oil plug should be re...

bmklawt

Looking for a door striker

bmklawt

Immediately after posting I thought maybe the plate on the bottom was mounted upside down, it fits much better this way but I still feel there is something missing, like the original bottom piece of the engine mount, researching what that looks like now.

bmklawt

Putting my front end on after rebuilding it and I find this engine mount does not fit correctly, I've been told the top center piece is correct, has ford stamp and T320? but the rest is some aftermarket thingy. I was going to use this but the bottom part of this contraption only touches the front cr...

bmklawt

I purchased new wire wheel lugs and hubs for my 1927 Touring, the wheel lugs measure .627" and the lug hole in the hub measures .624, will I be able to press these lugs in or do I need less than .003" interference.
If I do need less interference How do I go about fixing that?

bmklawt

Well I've had the hub on and off a half dozen times to try and nail down the noise then I found this little piece of copper wire stuck in the paint hanging off the edge of the backing plate, didn't think anything of it and pulled it off but the next time I put the hub on the noise was gone. I cant b...

bmklawt

1927 Touring with wire wheels. This is driving me nuts and I cant figure it out, so I built a rear axle from parts and when I put on my right rear hub without the brake band on I can here something dragging on the brake drum, it least it sounds like it's dragging on the drum, I can't figure what the...

bmklawt

When I install new lugs what is the procedure to bend the locking tap back down, punch and hammer, hydraulic press or nothing the swedging holds them

bmklawt

I have a decent set of rear wire wheel drums I received with the rocky mountain brakes I purchased, my original hubs are shot so I'm thinking of buying new hubs from Snyder's, does the new hub just slip onto the drum and is held together by swedging the lugs or do I need to press the new hub onto th...

bmklawt

I did check the axle halves before building the rear axle on a surface plate and the tubes are not bent, the axles run true in the axle tubes. I put a straight edge on the backing plate and you can see the casting is bent where the spring perch is bolted on. I'm going to shim out the backing plate a...

bmklawt

I am looking for one rear wire wheel hub for my 1927 Touring, will buy a pair if needed.

bmklawt

Just the casting at the spring perch on the end of the axle tube that the backing plate is riveted to is all I suspect is bent, driveshaft and axle are put together and everything turn smoothly, the axle tubes and axle shafts are not bent. Is it safe to drive that way, I was thinking to shim the bac...

bmklawt

Put my rear wheel hub on my built from parts axle an see the backing plate sits flush with the wheel hub except where the spring perch is, the axle tube is not bent. Can I use it this way, at least for the summer, I am so sick and tired of this rear axle.

bmklawt

Looking for one rear spring clamp for my 1927 Touring

bmklawt

I need 2 rear spring perches for my 1927 Touring.
I can't find mine after rebuilding the rear axle, I'm sure they will pop up as soon as buy some replacements.

bmklawt

I have part of a floorboard, 1927 or later written on them, anyone interested in them? They are yours for the cost of shipping.

bmklawt

Rebuilding the axle on my 1927 Touring and found my right axle housing is bent, scrounging through a few axles I have, I have noticed on some axle housings the depth of the machined area for the inside bearing is 4.150" and some are 4.290". The deeper ones have a step at 4.100" for the bearing race ...

bmklawt

Looking for a good used differential ring gear for my 1927 Touring

bmklawt

I have .002" brass shim stock, would it hurt to add three .002" shims, or should the trust washer be a single piece of the correct thickness?

bmklawt

I’m talking about the brass thrust washer that goes in the spider.
The way I have it set up on my mill, I pull one axle out as far as it will go and lock it down so the axle and differential can’t move than I can move the opposite axle in and out .0075”

bmklawt

What is this on my 1927 Touring passenger side, front, running board bracket?

bmklawt

I bought a 5/16" rivet set to install the running board brackets on my new frame but the rivet set head is not the correct size, it appears to be the correct size for the factory formed head on the rivet I got from Langs. What size rivet set do I need to do the the unfinished end of the rivet to mat...

bmklawt

Just wanted to check how close I need to be. I've been told "side to side clearance of the carrier and thrust washer assembly inside the axle housings is small say 5 to 10 thou" I've read and seen in the rear axle CD the axle should be snug with no side to side movement but easy to turn, I have .007...

bmklawt

Thanks everyone, very helpful, CD is on the way

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