MTFCA Forum

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Fuel Tank for 1926 1927 Model T. SOLD

Safety glass is easy to check for. Hold a lighter or barbecue lighter up to the glass, if you see a dual image, it's safety glass. That tip was given to me 17 years ago when I bought my car and joined the forum.

Your balance tube between the intake stubs needs to be bigger. That much I can say, and you need to make it a minimum of approximately 5/8- 3/4 of your intake stub size. So if your intake port is 1.25", your balance tube needs to be about 7/8" to 1" OD exhaust (or copper) tubing---I use that because...

My two cents on what it takes to use an aluminum radiator ,all I did is move the output and input spouts andmove the mounting tabs lower, and put on a dowel attach to the steel rod to attach the cowel. And I learned how to weld aluminum that day too! A man at my church is a professional welder and ...

My 2 Cents on the Ebay aluminum one----which is probably the same as the Speedway one. Problem 1, The upper tank is shaped wrong so a original shell does not fit correctly. Than means cutting it apart and rewelding. These rads are meant NOT to have the grill shell on them. They are meant for T-bucke...

Hank, That is stunning. Best of luck in the sale.

You can try Slip-Plate graphite paint on the manifolds....It works surprisingly well. We use it on muscle car era exhaust manifolds.

I have the Harbor Freight metal ones----the grey ones pictured above. The work good for a T, and if you have a decent back are easy to move it around. A smooth, kept floor is a must. I have one small surface divot in the floor that almost everytime catches the dolly wheel and flips it off from the T...

Ross Pistons will build you anything you want----for a price of course. I bought these custom 7.5 to 1 pistons for my Fronty head with Model A crank and rods in 2019, at that time it was just under $800, and I know they have had a couple price increases since then. That is pistons, with pins and rin...

Likely homemade from my experience with being around such things. The two major manufacturers never made skies in that fashion, but similar to yours was popular with home builders.

So by what I am seeing there, we can potentially put 64 degrees of timing BTDC into these engines? My ignition timing experience is basically with "modern" v8, and except for light cruising on flat roads, typically anything above 25-35 degrees BTDC with rattle the engine to severe detonation in most...

I get it Stan. I have been a member for 15 years, and quite frankly, most of the forum is a huge turn off to what it once was. Some of the greats that have passed are probably rolling over in their graves.....God I miss some of them fine folk. I've sent you an email off the forum so hopefully you ca...

Hoping you knowledgeable folk can help me on a recent purchase. I bought the intake and carb assembly from a fellow recently. I think this is a Model L Schebler carb, with a 1-3/16" bore. I don't know much abought it. Seems like these went on many cars including early Buicks. The intake almost looks...

Darn, saw this pop up and was hoping there might be an update.....but I guess some would say the same about mine.

Sometimes building a entire car just has some enormous undertakings to it.

Got my Christmas present today:

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henryford2 wrote: ↑
Wed Dec 09, 2020 9:18 pm
What piston are you using with the A crank and rods?

I posted this above, But these are custom Ross Pistons for use with the Fronty head.

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Thanks Mike. But as engine guys, you and I know both know its whats under the hood that matters the most.

just before the cold really set in, i mounted up a body side to see how all of this was coming together.

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viewtopic.php?t=15808

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/thr ... s.1165346/

Rich, I will be running coils and a timer on mine. Just remember, there are plenty of stock bottom end T's out there that can walk all over even a stroker "A" crank conversion. It's the combination of parts that get you the power. Also, more power is great, stopping it going down the road needs to b...

I'm having an "A" crank conversion done right now....easiest way to get a stroker engine done, buy a SCAT crankshaft. I decided for other various reasons to use a stock A crank (stock length), but the work involved is quite lengthy. Being the work is already done so to speak, take Kevin's and Dan's ...

Way to early for this weather to move in. Last year it was early also (but two weeks later than now). I'm not ready at all.

Oh, I know how long projects like this take, I just hope it doesn't take to long to actually hear it.
Nice work Les, I wouldn't expect anything less from you.

Someone got a great deal! Wish it was me!

I don't have any good side shots of my build, but I can tell you 5" - 5.5" drop is probably all you'd want to do, and maintain a decent oil pan clearance. Lower is possible of course, but getting 5" is pretty easy and seems to be the most common. All of my drop is via my modified frame and I split t...

Damn Hank....well, I wouldn't expect anything less. That's awesome!

Except that Leon passed away.

I don't know what became of the plans, thought I had read someone might have gotten them to try and reproduce again in the future.

From you third statement of installing a washer, to me that indicates some new spindle bushings and probably new pins should be installed. Hopefully the axle hole and threads are ok. Might be a good time to go through the whole front-end and inspect and redo or readjust everything.

Thank You all, this was very helpful. Oddly enough the pinion was not on a closed spool housing, but the vehicle was such a mish mash of parts I am really not surprised. I just wanted to harvest the gear for another project, but when i saw the hyatt had come all apart, I grew concerned. The pinion w...

I don't know Norman, here is the one in the classifieds and you can clearly see the Ford script and it also has the notches instead of the bevel like most gears do. I think this might be a running change at some point. Yes, mine was rubbing on the back of what was left from the hyatt bearing, so my ...

Are there notches on the backside of this 11 tooth pinion normal? I assumed they were caused by a hyatt bearing that came apart, but I see one in the classified that has the notches also. Mine definitely had a little wear on the flat surface from the bearing, but if the notch is normal, maybe I'll j...

19" and 21" A wheels have the same bolt pattern.

Very interesting thread and some great pictures of some very nice work. Just wondering Chad,...the one photo of the front end that shows other than Model A king pins. Is that a Model A front end with later Ford front end brakes, spindles, king pins, etc, etc? Just wondering,.....harold Harold, It i...

Wow, prices were truly all over the place. Amazing some of the cars were as cheap as they were....but obviously I was not there to actually look at them. I hear what your saying on the conditions by the area, company doing it, and such having a possible effect on the prices. It just seems to me that...

Just a thought R.V., but also make them sold as bolts AND nuts in a set. This would ensure people are getting the correct parts together. You can obviously sell them separately too. I know when I bought mine, I had to buy the bolts from you and the nuts elsewhere. I realize you didn't have them back...

Good post Chad on the modifications that need to be done for the aluminum radiator to fit. It sounds like you could have a new core put in an original radiator if you paid someone to modify and buy an aluminum one. Some have the skills to do it and others not so much so that would be an issue for s...

Dennis, I wasn't saying you were wrong in any way, you were correct in your post. I am sorry if you took that as me saying you were.

Being I have one in hand, I looked hard and long at it and the list I came up with was pretty comprehensive.

I get we all like to joke and have fun, but I feel that deters some to the original posters asking the question. Might even turn them sour on the forum with all the smart ass answers. Just saying, take it for what its worth all you complaining no new people want to join in this hobby. Now that I hav...

Chad I have bolt on dimple bars if you need to borrow them for the A crank throws. Pretty simple, just heat the areas and hammer down where the voids are. Hank Hey Hank, For the A crank, I'm going to build a Fronty style pan so no worries on the clearance. I am not sure who's this is, but this is w...

Chad, What is your engine builder charging(roughly) to do the A crank and Cam? Trying to determine if I want to go that route. Tim I'll just say between 1-2k (don't want to pin anyone down), Shipping was $325 there. I supplied all the parts, Cam, bearing cores, stock A crank that was cleaned and ma...

I'm so glad you posted your GOW-job here too! Yeehaw! Summer sure dragged me down! ;) I hear ya loud and clear. Or am I waiting for the OT project to "go to town" here... Itchin' for more Chad. :) Duey, Thank You. I'm itchin' for more to, I just don't know how fast I can get it done. I have some wa...

Thank You for the response Allan, I appreciate it. Yes, not much dust here either. So I am not overly worried about it....however I did have thoughts of making a setup for a real air filter just for such occasions. A friend of mine had to sell me on the SU, they do have some great benefits and as yo...

Chad, You have been busy. Glad to see you posting again .... Looks good... Thank You Donnie. Feels good to post some. I have and have not been busy depends on the day, and sometimes the hour. While still younger than some here, I have ambition issues....or may be it's time issues...money issues? Ye...

Chad, there are much earlier versions of the S U carburetor which would be closer to your aim of using pre 1935 parts. They work in the same way, but are constructed differently, with some brass components. The larger sizes are a little more difficult to come by. Based on the type of air cleaner on...

Thanks Hank, your one of the big parts in this also.

A week off home on vacation, even with a messed up back, I made substantial progress this week alone.

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I prefer to use the early term Gow Job, rather than speedster. To me, a Gow is a modified full body car where a speedster tends to have a smaller (or none) homemade body, and sometimes a single seat car. In another thread, some requested me to post pics. So here goes. Started about three years ago. ...

I too don't like the short thread engagement of the stock bolts. I wish someone would make exact looking thicker heads from the stock Ford on a longer bolt. I too have cleaned the threads (7/16" x 14 for those that don't know) and then measured the depth with the depth portion on a digital micromete...

My apologies David. I did read into that wrong. It was kind of open ended the way it was written.

However, I feel my statements are valid for other people on this forum, I wasn't trying to pick on you exclusively...although it probably seems that way.

5 clicks if I want to post a photo, attachment, add file, select picture, open file, place inline vs 3 for FB, photo, click, open. Look at night and you will see 5 members on and 125 guests. You can post a question, see over 100 hits, and no responses to your question. Then there is Dallas and Hank...

Amazing though you all want to see speedster stuff, and that a good friend of mine posts his speedster stuff and damn near gets shunned. It's still mostly model T and very ingenuitive....but it does have an A engine/trans. Mine is being setup to run an A trans, and has a complete A steering and fron...

If I recall right, it is approximately 5- 5.5 to 1. As a person that builds modern performance engines, and have been delving into T engines specs heavily for a couple of my own builds, I can absolutely tell you any number given is just a wild guess until components are measure via liquid and a bure...

dmdeaton wrote: ↑
Thu Sep 17, 2020 9:29 pm
CHAD
I would love to see your speedster stuff. Mine is about half finished and gathering parts for another. I used to build boats and want to build a wood frame ribbed body
Maybe we need a speedster forum

Pretty sure you have seen it on the HAMB. We have chatted before.

I used to post, but most people don't care for my speedster stuff even though it's still T....mostly anyhow.

I got new pistons today............
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For what it's worth, with my experience in engine building, the best thing to do first is ask the cam manufacture what they recommend. Have you called Specialty Motor Company? They are very helpful I have found recently myself. It's my understanding Bill is retired from the business. Second thing, f...

Pulled the mock up engine to liberate some parts to use on another block.
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I do agree, The shop bill wasn't hard to swallow, about what I figured actually. Plus add in all the rest of the parts, It adds up real quick. I don't think alot of the people consider the total costs to do machine shop work. I didn't get the head cheap, but I think the price was definitely fair (ev...

@Susanne, To the best of what I have found the SR and SOHC / DOCH versions were the more red, reddish-orange. The R is still a single port head. All you need is the casting. The valves and guides are probably junk. You can use Big Block Chevy exhaust valves (1.88") at a +.100" length, they might hav...

Just for future reference, The paint was mixed and while the color is hard to pickup with a camera and on screen, it is what I call "machine grey", or a very light mossy green. it is a grey green color, popularly seen on large shop machine equipment. This is to my best research over several weeks, t...

These are not hard to replace and don't require anything special to do. I even replace the pawl lever while I am at it. If your total low buck on this, you said you had several, pull the rod from another one and just get the new rivet to attach it to the handle. To me that's the best cheapest soluti...

We seriously need a like button for posts like this.

Hank, Thank You

Thanks Hank. Im curious what you come up with. If indeed single port heads such as mine were a different color, I find that very interesting. I know it probably doesn't matter to most, but now that I have been researching it, it matters to me. No one has documented this to the best of my knowledge. ...

Hoping someone has seen an original Fronty head to have seen the color they were painted. I'm trying to get as close as I can on mine if possible for a period build. I found an old post that said they were painted to a similar color as mid-late 20's chevy which was a gray-green...im almost thinking ...

Radial power as backup engine on the sail boat Hank?

Agree with you Dallas, Hank and I have recently had some really great conversations as of late. Truly a wealth of knowledge.

Found a little more info. This is a pic of the seat riser from the car (not in my possession yet). It is meta and has a hole for a starter switch. So according to the sites encyclopedia it should be the earliest of 1920 (as 1918-1919 cars had wooden seat frames, and starters were first introduced 19...

Is there anything else I can use to pin down a date on this body? Or is it just going to be 17- 22

I think some of the pieces that may further ID the year I don't have, but I appreciate any help. Thank You

Also, are doors from '24-'25 interchangeable with an earlier body like mine?

Yes, It has the large caps, but that makes sense being its a low cowl body. Hank, when you say dash, do you mean the "firewall" or are you talking the "instrument panel"? The "firewall" I received with the body is a non stock plywood with a metal band around the top and just down the top curve part ...

I just picked up a low cowl roadster body. Is there any way to figure out what the year is? I can post lots of pics, but I'd just be guessing. Tell me what I should be looking for or you want to see to help me ID it. Thank You forum for your help.

Yesterday, I would have been BEGGING you to somehow ship the side panels and back panel to me. But I think I am ok with what I have.

Sacrificial anode to keep the gas clean.

The clamp was loose, and there was an assortment of washers between the nuts and the lower clamp plate, and still lots of room between the pin hole and the castellations on the nuts. Jim, that could be a front mount for a TT (Ton Truck). Somehow one ended up on my '25 car chassis and I have the sam...

Normal operating procedures for them. Been happening for years. You can search to your hearts content. I also had heard that one of the major vendors was going to drop them because of all the hassles. Not sure if that ever happened or not.

Thanks everyone for your suggestions. I*m going to try some different things to see what works. Guess cleaning out my parts washer wouldn't hurt a thing either. Always had an old car smell but its a lot worse for some reason. That right there is a big source. Anything like that is going to create o...

I do not know what to do about the front frame corners. That shape does not look original but I am not sure what shape to make it or how. Both front frame corner sides have the same bent-looking shape. Also the front spring clamps seem to be missing. I don't see that Lang's sells them for earlier t...

It might help to narrow down what the odor is. I have three cars in my garage, and nobody has ever mentioned anything, nor do I ever smell anything. I can tell you if I fire up a vehicle in the garage for more than just pulling it out, then yes, it will stick of exhaust for a day or two after.....I ...

Scott, I don't necessarily disagree with you. But alot of the good running T's I see run 35-40 pretty regularly. They all have been rebuilt in some manner, not all have Scat cranks. My T, personally likes 25-33, I'm OK with that. The next engine will be much more refined. Jim, you probably already k...

I agree with others on checking all the rest of the steering first. Pull the front wheels and pull the tie rod off each spindle so you get a good idea of drag if any. If after all of that you still feel strongly about adding reinforcement, I used the ends of the draglink inserted into some DOM steel...

Good start and you have more to start with than I did. Hopefully that 4 dip pan is good enough to use and not rusted out.

You guys are awesome as usual. That is the info I needed to continue on my calculations. Thank You very much. Hap, bore and stroke, as well as head chamber size, piston - or + volume, and head gasket volume are all needed to accurately calculate compression. Most are satisfied with assumptions and p...

Thats great Kevin! Thank You ----whats the bore diameter on them?

I'm just trying to accurately measure for compression ratio. I don't have a head gasket in my possession at this time. This is information I'd like to pass to my camshaft builder doing a custom grind.

Hoping someone has a overhead head gasket (that would fit an 8 valve head such as a Fronty or Rajo). I am hoping you can measure the bore size and thickness for me. It really would help if you have a used gasket as it's already squished, but I've got a good idea of what the difference would be if yo...

Wow Jim, You sure do get around. This is probably the last place I expected to see you. I have followed you for years with your other cars on Drag Week. Finally met you briefly at Atco last year. Congrats on the car, it looks great.

I for one would love to see flow data on any of these heads. I am trying to find a flow bench locally that would flow my Fronty T head.

No one can ever replace true friendship. I hope you are able to eventually get a T. Hang around here enough and might happen sooner than you think.

Where is the freaking like button! So much good info in this post if your an engine junkie! And Dan, Yes, More Air, More Fuel does equal more power----but only if you can use it all....even on the top end of the RPMs. There is always a saturation point of diminishing returns. If the head flows such ...

To answer your question, you can technically use a "universal" set of wires. But as was mentioned, you could buy the more "correct" looking wire in bulk and ends and build your own. It's really not hard, and I am willing to bet there are youtube videos of it. I like alot of the comments here, some a...

Donnie, I want to congratulate you on the milestone of hearing it run....It sounds GOOD! Wow 6 years now. I can't believe it's been that long already. Finish her up and go take it for a social distancing ride. Congratulations again!

Edit: Knew I should have kept my mouth shut.....Later Y'all

You can search for mine I started building, or look on the HAMB forum Model T Gow Job. I too am running an A box...the better '30-31 box. Link: https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/model-t-gow-job.1122709/ Interesting that the above pictures, that the end of the A box has been trimmed and tur...

Cool, front wheel drive burnout.

All I know is, I post way less than I ever have here, only because a of a few people. No direct attacks, but a few hypocrites go out of their way to help one person, saying the young need to have info, and more or less telling me to go pound salt when I asked for help. Take it for what you will. I u...

I posted some photos of an engine with this type of conversion over in the other discussion - https://www.mtfca.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=10117 WOW, Those too are great reference. THANK YOU for posting those. All of this is great info to have. The flywheel housing is Model B, I cant say for su...

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