MTFCA Forum

Hi all, I am looking for some good Hyatts and good 11-40 ring and pinion gears.

PM me or email: crazydart400 AT yahoo.com

19" and 21" A wheels have the same bolt pattern.

Very interesting thread and some great pictures of some very nice work. Just wondering Chad,...the one photo of the front end that shows other than Model A king pins. Is that a Model A front end with later Ford front end brakes, spindles, king pins, etc, etc? Just wondering,.....harold Harold, It i...

Wow, prices were truly all over the place. Amazing some of the cars were as cheap as they were....but obviously I was not there to actually look at them. I hear what your saying on the conditions by the area, company doing it, and such having a possible effect on the prices. It just seems to me that...

Just a thought R.V., but also make them sold as bolts AND nuts in a set. This would ensure people are getting the correct parts together. You can obviously sell them separately too. I know when I bought mine, I had to buy the bolts from you and the nuts elsewhere. I realize you didn't have them back...

Good post Chad on the modifications that need to be done for the aluminum radiator to fit. It sounds like you could have a new core put in an original radiator if you paid someone to modify and buy an aluminum one. Some have the skills to do it and others not so much so that would be an issue for s...

Dennis, I wasn't saying you were wrong in any way, you were correct in your post. I am sorry if you took that as me saying you were.

Being I have one in hand, I looked hard and long at it and the list I came up with was pretty comprehensive.

I get we all like to joke and have fun, but I feel that deters some to the original posters asking the question. Might even turn them sour on the forum with all the smart ass answers. Just saying, take it for what its worth all you complaining no new people want to join in this hobby. Now that I hav...

Chad I have bolt on dimple bars if you need to borrow them for the A crank throws. Pretty simple, just heat the areas and hammer down where the voids are. Hank Hey Hank, For the A crank, I'm going to build a Fronty style pan so no worries on the clearance. I am not sure who's this is, but this is w...

Chad, What is your engine builder charging(roughly) to do the A crank and Cam? Trying to determine if I want to go that route. Tim I'll just say between 1-2k (don't want to pin anyone down), Shipping was $325 there. I supplied all the parts, Cam, bearing cores, stock A crank that was cleaned and ma...

I'm so glad you posted your GOW-job here too! Yeehaw! Summer sure dragged me down! ;) I hear ya loud and clear. Or am I waiting for the OT project to "go to town" here... Itchin' for more Chad. :) Duey, Thank You. I'm itchin' for more to, I just don't know how fast I can get it done. I have some wa...

Thank You for the response Allan, I appreciate it. Yes, not much dust here either. So I am not overly worried about it....however I did have thoughts of making a setup for a real air filter just for such occasions. A friend of mine had to sell me on the SU, they do have some great benefits and as yo...

Chad, You have been busy. Glad to see you posting again .... Looks good... Thank You Donnie. Feels good to post some. I have and have not been busy depends on the day, and sometimes the hour. While still younger than some here, I have ambition issues....or may be it's time issues...money issues? Ye...

Chad, there are much earlier versions of the S U carburetor which would be closer to your aim of using pre 1935 parts. They work in the same way, but are constructed differently, with some brass components. The larger sizes are a little more difficult to come by. Based on the type of air cleaner on...

Thanks Hank, your one of the big parts in this also.

A week off home on vacation, even with a messed up back, I made substantial progress this week alone.

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I prefer to use the early term Gow Job, rather than speedster. To me, a Gow is a modified full body car where a speedster tends to have a smaller (or none) homemade body, and sometimes a single seat car. In another thread, some requested me to post pics. So here goes. Started about three years ago. ...

I too don't like the short thread engagement of the stock bolts. I wish someone would make exact looking thicker heads from the stock Ford on a longer bolt. I too have cleaned the threads (7/16" x 14 for those that don't know) and then measured the depth with the depth portion on a digital micromete...

My apologies David. I did read into that wrong. It was kind of open ended the way it was written.

However, I feel my statements are valid for other people on this forum, I wasn't trying to pick on you exclusively...although it probably seems that way.

5 clicks if I want to post a photo, attachment, add file, select picture, open file, place inline vs 3 for FB, photo, click, open. Look at night and you will see 5 members on and 125 guests. You can post a question, see over 100 hits, and no responses to your question. Then there is Dallas and Hank...

Amazing though you all want to see speedster stuff, and that a good friend of mine posts his speedster stuff and damn near gets shunned. It's still mostly model T and very ingenuitive....but it does have an A engine/trans. Mine is being setup to run an A trans, and has a complete A steering and fron...

If I recall right, it is approximately 5- 5.5 to 1. As a person that builds modern performance engines, and have been delving into T engines specs heavily for a couple of my own builds, I can absolutely tell you any number given is just a wild guess until components are measure via liquid and a bure...

dmdeaton wrote: ↑
Thu Sep 17, 2020 9:29 pm
CHAD
I would love to see your speedster stuff. Mine is about half finished and gathering parts for another. I used to build boats and want to build a wood frame ribbed body
Maybe we need a speedster forum

Pretty sure you have seen it on the HAMB. We have chatted before.

I used to post, but most people don't care for my speedster stuff even though it's still T....mostly anyhow.

I got new pistons today............
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For what it's worth, with my experience in engine building, the best thing to do first is ask the cam manufacture what they recommend. Have you called Specialty Motor Company? They are very helpful I have found recently myself. It's my understanding Bill is retired from the business. Second thing, f...

Pulled the mock up engine to liberate some parts to use on another block.
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I do agree, The shop bill wasn't hard to swallow, about what I figured actually. Plus add in all the rest of the parts, It adds up real quick. I don't think alot of the people consider the total costs to do machine shop work. I didn't get the head cheap, but I think the price was definitely fair (ev...

@Susanne, To the best of what I have found the SR and SOHC / DOCH versions were the more red, reddish-orange. The R is still a single port head. All you need is the casting. The valves and guides are probably junk. You can use Big Block Chevy exhaust valves (1.88") at a +.100" length, they might hav...

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Just for future reference, The paint was mixed and while the color is hard to pickup with a camera and on screen, it is what I call "machine grey", or a very light mossy green. it is a grey green color, popularly seen on large shop machine equipment. This is to my best research over several weeks, t...

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These are not hard to replace and don't require anything special to do. I even replace the pawl lever while I am at it. If your total low buck on this, you said you had several, pull the rod from another one and just get the new rivet to attach it to the handle. To me that's the best cheapest soluti...

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Thanks gentleman. I do realize the grooved spindle is not what I would use personally. As mentioned in my ad, the arms are the real value here.

If someone just wants the arms, I will remove them. Just trying to clear out some parts that are around here.

We seriously need a like button for posts like this.

Hank, Thank You

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Thanks Hank. Im curious what you come up with. If indeed single port heads such as mine were a different color, I find that very interesting. I know it probably doesn't matter to most, but now that I have been researching it, it matters to me. No one has documented this to the best of my knowledge. ...

message sent

Hoping someone has seen an original Fronty head to have seen the color they were painted. I'm trying to get as close as I can on mine if possible for a period build. I found an old post that said they were painted to a similar color as mid-late 20's chevy which was a gray-green...im almost thinking ...

Radial power as backup engine on the sail boat Hank?

Agree with you Dallas, Hank and I have recently had some really great conversations as of late. Truly a wealth of knowledge.

Found a little more info. This is a pic of the seat riser from the car (not in my possession yet). It is meta and has a hole for a starter switch. So according to the sites encyclopedia it should be the earliest of 1920 (as 1918-1919 cars had wooden seat frames, and starters were first introduced 19...

Is there anything else I can use to pin down a date on this body? Or is it just going to be 17- 22

I think some of the pieces that may further ID the year I don't have, but I appreciate any help. Thank You

Also, are doors from '24-'25 interchangeable with an earlier body like mine?

Yes, It has the large caps, but that makes sense being its a low cowl body. Hank, when you say dash, do you mean the "firewall" or are you talking the "instrument panel"? The "firewall" I received with the body is a non stock plywood with a metal band around the top and just down the top curve part ...

I just picked up a low cowl roadster body. Is there any way to figure out what the year is? I can post lots of pics, but I'd just be guessing. Tell me what I should be looking for or you want to see to help me ID it. Thank You forum for your help.

Email Sent. Thank You

Yesterday, I would have been BEGGING you to somehow ship the side panels and back panel to me. But I think I am ok with what I have.

Found! Thank you Hank and MTFCA!

I am looking for a nice, ORIGINAL, not beat up set of nuts (6) that go on the bolts for the main caps. Need to have great threads, no rounded corners and no bent or missing tabs on the castle portion.

Please send a pic and contact me at crazydart400 AT yahoo DOT com .
Thank You

Sacrificial anode to keep the gas clean.

The clamp was loose, and there was an assortment of washers between the nuts and the lower clamp plate, and still lots of room between the pin hole and the castellations on the nuts. Jim, that could be a front mount for a TT (Ton Truck). Somehow one ended up on my '25 car chassis and I have the sam...

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Normal operating procedures for them. Been happening for years. You can search to your hearts content. I also had heard that one of the major vendors was going to drop them because of all the hassles. Not sure if that ever happened or not.

Thanks everyone for your suggestions. I*m going to try some different things to see what works. Guess cleaning out my parts washer wouldn't hurt a thing either. Always had an old car smell but its a lot worse for some reason. That right there is a big source. Anything like that is going to create o...

I do not know what to do about the front frame corners. That shape does not look original but I am not sure what shape to make it or how. Both front frame corner sides have the same bent-looking shape. Also the front spring clamps seem to be missing. I don't see that Lang's sells them for earlier t...

It might help to narrow down what the odor is. I have three cars in my garage, and nobody has ever mentioned anything, nor do I ever smell anything. I can tell you if I fire up a vehicle in the garage for more than just pulling it out, then yes, it will stick of exhaust for a day or two after.....I ...

Scott, I don't necessarily disagree with you. But alot of the good running T's I see run 35-40 pretty regularly. They all have been rebuilt in some manner, not all have Scat cranks. My T, personally likes 25-33, I'm OK with that. The next engine will be much more refined. Jim, you probably already k...

I agree with others on checking all the rest of the steering first. Pull the front wheels and pull the tie rod off each spindle so you get a good idea of drag if any. If after all of that you still feel strongly about adding reinforcement, I used the ends of the draglink inserted into some DOM steel...

Good start and you have more to start with than I did. Hopefully that 4 dip pan is good enough to use and not rusted out.

You guys are awesome as usual. That is the info I needed to continue on my calculations. Thank You very much. Hap, bore and stroke, as well as head chamber size, piston - or + volume, and head gasket volume are all needed to accurately calculate compression. Most are satisfied with assumptions and p...

Thats great Kevin! Thank You ----whats the bore diameter on them?

I'm just trying to accurately measure for compression ratio. I don't have a head gasket in my possession at this time. This is information I'd like to pass to my camshaft builder doing a custom grind.

Hoping someone has a overhead head gasket (that would fit an 8 valve head such as a Fronty or Rajo). I am hoping you can measure the bore size and thickness for me. It really would help if you have a used gasket as it's already squished, but I've got a good idea of what the difference would be if yo...

Wow Jim, You sure do get around. This is probably the last place I expected to see you. I have followed you for years with your other cars on Drag Week. Finally met you briefly at Atco last year. Congrats on the car, it looks great.

I for one would love to see flow data on any of these heads. I am trying to find a flow bench locally that would flow my Fronty T head.

No one can ever replace true friendship. I hope you are able to eventually get a T. Hang around here enough and might happen sooner than you think.

Where is the freaking like button! So much good info in this post if your an engine junkie! And Dan, Yes, More Air, More Fuel does equal more power----but only if you can use it all....even on the top end of the RPMs. There is always a saturation point of diminishing returns. If the head flows such ...

To answer your question, you can technically use a "universal" set of wires. But as was mentioned, you could buy the more "correct" looking wire in bulk and ends and build your own. It's really not hard, and I am willing to bet there are youtube videos of it. I like alot of the comments here, some a...

Donnie, I want to congratulate you on the milestone of hearing it run....It sounds GOOD! Wow 6 years now. I can't believe it's been that long already. Finish her up and go take it for a social distancing ride. Congratulations again!

Edit: Knew I should have kept my mouth shut.....Later Y'all

You can search for mine I started building, or look on the HAMB forum Model T Gow Job. I too am running an A box...the better '30-31 box. Link: https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/model-t-gow-job.1122709/ Interesting that the above pictures, that the end of the A box has been trimmed and tur...

Any offers?

I have a set of cast muffler ends for I believe late teens. Pitted but still solid. The tube you can use for a pattern---if you don't want the tube just let me know. Take a look. Cleaning up the garage, asking $40 shipped in the lower $48 states (please remember, shipping is included and costs $15 b...

Cool, front wheel drive burnout.

All I know is, I post way less than I ever have here, only because a of a few people. No direct attacks, but a few hypocrites go out of their way to help one person, saying the young need to have info, and more or less telling me to go pound salt when I asked for help. Take it for what you will. I u...

I posted some photos of an engine with this type of conversion over in the other discussion - https://www.mtfca.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=10117 WOW, Those too are great reference. THANK YOU for posting those. All of this is great info to have. The flywheel housing is Model B, I cant say for su...

Ok- here are a few pictures of my seal setup- pretty much self explanatory. The last picture shows the extended crank flange necessary to position the flywheel properly. The flywheel in this engine is a lightened model A with a V-8 pressure plate. Crank is model A with a full length rear main. I'll...

Well, ok then. Anyone else have some real information they are willing to share?

Henry K. Lee wrote: ↑
Thu Feb 27, 2020 7:35 pm
Do not forget the transmission pilot bushing!

Hank

It's already in the flywheel....can't really forget it....

According to my measurements, because I don't want to confuse anyone, yes, if using a stock T crank, yes, you need a spacer on the end of the crank before the flywheel goes on. If using a stock length A crank (which has a surface for a seal to ride already), the flywheel housing needs to be spaced a...

Hank,

It would be great if you had any pics of the parts and pieces with them on a engine so I could see better what your trying to convey in your message.

I did have a phone call with Dan. His seal holder is made for an "A" crank in a T block using the A transmission....which I'm also building beside the T crank / T block engine. It is also expensive, and I made a verbal commitment for one, he said a couple of months to get some cast up. He said he is...

Very nice Shane. I too am working on trying to put an "A" trans behind a T Engine. I'll never have enough funds to own a Fronty pan, so I'll just build a similar one. My big issue is figuring out the sealing for the rear main so oil wont get into the clutch. So far in a couple months of research the...

I know this has been done, so hopefully someone here can tell me. I'm trying to run a T engine with T crank with a dry clutch setup (basically like a modern type engine/clutch /trans setup). That means I need to somehow seal the rear main. How can it be done? I have one idea, but you certainly wont ...

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. SOLD SOLD SOLD! Steering column from a speedster project that changed direction. Length is still standard, so can be used in regular car New pitman arm New key New nut New grease cup. Excellent used timing / spark rods New control rod springs and cups New gears (4:1) New brass quadrant New brass n...

For those of you wanting to do something different, please join us at the Model T Ford Snowmobile in Forestport, NY (Noth of Utica, NY) this weekend, February 1st, 2020 The Trackside Blazes Snowmobile Club (modern) have graciously invited us back this year. The weather looks great, and we just need ...

All sold! Thank You. I was glad to have these done and pass a few on.

I'm not sure if I will ever have these made again (its hard to front the money for such an adventure). However, I am always interested to hear of any interest in this.

1 set sold pending received payment.

1 set left!

I had some flanges made up for the exhaust and intake ports for the Frontenac head to make manifolds with. Both flanges are the same except for the inner diameter. These are laser cut 3/8" mild steel plates. The exhaust are sized at 1.5" holes (Quantity 3) The intakes I made a touch smaller at 1.25"...

Are the vendors out of them?

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