MTFCA Forum

Darren J Wallace

I'm pretty sure that's a 1915 Ford Special gear.

Darren J Wallace

My original rad on my early ‘13 wasn’t drilled. Canadian built in September/October 1912

Darren J Wallace

Mine was never drilled for the choke rod and it’s an early Canadian’13. Built in October 1912.

Darren J Wallace

Here's photos of my "original" hose. It is between 24 3/4" and 25" long. The outside diameter is 15/32", slightly over 7/16" as Larry pointed out for original specs. Since my car is a Canadian car, some variations may apply(?) This has been on this car since my grandfather bought it in 1956. I would...

Darren J Wallace

I still have the petrified original hose from my generator to the frame pipe. The piece that goes thru the splash apron for my early '13. I'll measure it.

Darren J Wallace

Thank you Scott for the valuable info!

Darren J Wallace

Hi Kim, email sent! Thanks!

Darren J Wallace

Looking for a replacement set of Jno. Brown model 19 all brass headlights. Condition will determine what I’m willing to pay. I have good glass reflectors and complete burner assemblies if you don’t. Looking to swap out a better set than what I currently have as they’re in pretty rough shape and I’m ...

Darren J Wallace

A number of years ago a gentleman here on the mtfca site by the name of Rodger Erickson was making all brass Jno. Brown model 19 headlights. Does anyone know how to get a hold of him? I’m wondering if they’re still making them. Or: does anyone have an original set that is in good condition that they...

Darren J Wallace

Not quite a parade, but our wedding in 2012. Actually it was a parade of 9 old cars! Mostly T's, 2 of them mine

Darren J Wallace

Need a telephone number, thanks!

Darren J Wallace

Email sent regarding the surface grinder. Thanks!

Darren J Wallace

Where are you located? Price on mill and surface grinder?

Darren J Wallace

Can someone identify for me the carbide generator in the photo that Keith posted. Many thanks!

Darren J Wallace

My September/October of 1912 Canadian built 1913 was pinstriped and you could still see what was left of it in 1989. How do I know? I saw it myself growing up with this car!

here it is in 1929

Darren J Wallace

2002 was the year I bought my 1915. I sold it a couple of years ago to make room for my grandfather's 1913

Darren J Wallace

The day my grandfather's 1913 came home to my garage!

Darren J Wallace

My grandfather the day he brought our 1913 home for the first time in 1956

Darren J Wallace

My first T, a 1926 I bought from Janesville Wisconsin in 2001:

Darren J Wallace

Very interesting Tim! Thanks for sharing!

Darren J Wallace

Many thanks Dan and Scott!!

Darren J Wallace

Many thanks Tim and Dan!! What is the actual flange O.D. ? Is it 1.500" or is it bigger? My bushing will be a be a press fit for sure.

Darren J Wallace

Hello all, I''ve roughed out a bronze bushing for my two piece drive shaft on my lathe. I need some measurements to finish it but cannot find them on the internet. What is the pre-finished thickness of the flange? Also, should the outside diameter of the flange be just a few thou slide fit into the ...

Darren J Wallace

Thanks again guys! I did notice I had to weld in two of the holes, so I did. It's all painted and ready to go! I had to make a riveting jig, and the rivets in the lathe. Everything worked out great! I did have an original one to take measurements off of that the owner didn't want to sell.

Darren J Wallace

I would have liked an original but the cost of shipping to Canada is a bit of an issue, plus duties and taxes, and I had a donor to convert so that’s why I went this route.

Darren J Wallace

Thank you John so much for your quick response and the photos. This is perfect!!

Darren J Wallace

Many thanks for the insight!

Darren J Wallace

Forgot to add if this unit is correct for a 1912, what is the Center distance from one base hole to the next? I’m hoping it’s 6”. Thanks!

Darren J Wallace

Can anyone show me a photo and/or supply dimensions of the locations of where the rivets that secure the front casting to the torque tube? I’m putting together a replica using the components that Lang’s sells but the new front casting has no rivet holes. Thanking anyone who can assist me in advance!

Darren J Wallace

Question for Walter: Thanks for posting this photo of the Jno Brown unit. Is this example correct for late 1912?

Darren J Wallace

Hi Randy, yes this is the one I’m looking for.

Darren J Wallace

Thank you Harry for the additional info! Yes it’s different from the Stewart, but I want it for the internal parts.

Darren J Wallace

I'm looking for an aftermarket Stewart swivel. Please see the photos. Condition of the outer pot metal shells is not important as long as the internal gears are still good. Both halves of the swivel are similar or "mirror imaged". It's very important that the one I'm looking for is identical to this...

Darren J Wallace

back to the top, any interest?

Darren J Wallace

More pics of the interior and rear

Darren J Wallace

New and correct year parts throughout including switch except the brass knurled knobs are old ones, and I bought a set of 10 OLD coil contact springs including the bottom one as they're the good ones. I machined the proper size hex nuts for holding the porcelain assembly's together. All parts and pi...

Darren J Wallace

Just couldn't wait.......

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jE1peIT1U8I

Darren J Wallace

Thanks guys for your kind words! My car is a September/October Canadian 1912 build. It has a mostly 1912 chassis, with a 1913 body on it. The lights, running boards, speedometer setup, engine (B 872) and many other little things are 1912. That's why I chose this coil box and coils to put on the car....

Darren J Wallace

After working on my original Heinze coil box and coils all winter, everything was installed today. Car started right up and runs great! I rebuilt 7 of these late 1912, early 1913 coils during the winter, and NONE of them have any issues or double sparking! They all have new windings, points, and cap...

Darren J Wallace

I would like to see a picture of the JNO Brown carbide generator that would be correct for a late 1912, early 1913. I have 1912 running boards on my Canadian early 1913 car, with a set of 3 holes for the generator, that have an equal spacing of 6" between centers on all three holes. I'm currently us...

Darren J Wallace

What are the distances from one mounting hole to the next on the all-brass carbide generator?

Darren J Wallace

Thank you very much RV! And thank you everyone else who has chimed in here! Very valuable info for sure!

Darren J Wallace

Anyone know why the coils have the alphabet numbers on them? Better yet, why the fraction on the one?

Darren J Wallace

Now that is neat!

Darren J Wallace

Got a nice late 1912 original Heinze coil box looking like it belongs on my "not so mint" early '13 with everything functional

Darren J Wallace

Today, I decided that if I use my coil box I would have a convenient way of quickly checking and/or adjusting them at home. I made an adapter to run them in a Strobo-Spark tester, but it will also work fine in my hand cranked coil tester!

Darren J Wallace

Made a key today for the coil box

Darren J Wallace

Might be a needle in a haystack but before I make one or buy a repro from Lang's, anyone got an original they would liberate from their stash of goodies? Looks like the Lang's photo I borrowed
Thanks in advance!
Merry Christmas!!!

Darren J Wallace

I thought I would share with you guys how I did some of the repair work to my original 1912 Heinze coil box and coils. For the most part, I've done nothing to the coil box other than clean it up a bit. I'm not sure whether I will leave it original or restore it, as it looks and performs just fine th...

Darren J Wallace

Thanks everyone for your help! I have a coil working, and I think RV nailed it! :) It seems to have the least amount of double sparks at 1.0 amps. Please comment if you see anything I'm doing wrong so far. I've built many regular coils but this is a first time for me doing a Heinze. It's not potted ...

Darren J Wallace

I would also like to add that I'm only rebuilding these Heinze coils and their respective original wood box just for a fun project. Whether I actually use it or not on my car is up in the air. I like the challenge, and I want to have a "era correct" coil box for the car. I'm currently running a KW r...

Darren J Wallace

I'm rebuilding some 1912 Heinze coils and am using the new primary and secondary windings you can buy from the vendors. I had a new winding left over from an old batch I bought and put together a coil. I potted one coil before checking it (my stupid mistake) and of course, it didn't work at all. I d...

Darren J Wallace

Thanks R.V. Anderson too for pointing out the little details! Because my car is an early ‘13, I can put fairy accurate dated coils in my car

Darren J Wallace

Thanks Don and the MTFCA! Now I have plenty of spares!

Darren J Wallace

Hi Don, PM sent

Darren J Wallace

Looking for a couple of 1912 Original Heinze coils to have as spares. They will be rebuilt so they can have bad capacitors and secondary coils. They do however need to be complete with all the top hardware. Pictures will be a big help. They should look like the coils in my photos in particular, the ...

Darren J Wallace

It was a nice enough day to make a quick Christmas video with our Canadian early '13.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=So2Gnis ... e=youtu.be

Merry Christmas!!

Darren & Jennie Wallace

Darren J Wallace

My Early Canadian '13 was pinstriped

Darren J Wallace

Also forgot to mention that the zinc die cast alloy made great bearing material in many products.

Darren J Wallace

It’s been my experience with the thrust washers that out of the dozens and dozens I’ve looked at, none of them were babbitt. They are all zinc die cast. They look like Babbitt but they’re not. If you look at mint condition ones they have the tiny Ford script cast in them. It was a cheap way original...

Darren J Wallace

While repairing my 1913 Ford's Jno. Brown model 19 headlights, I found this manufacture's logo etched into the reflector glass before it was silvered. Neat! The original holding wedges are pot metal and badly fractured. I machined a 6.5" appropriately shaped ring out of a convenient sized chunk of b...

Darren J Wallace

Hi Tim, any way I could get a nice scan of that for my generator? Thanking you in advance, Darren

Darren J Wallace

Found an entire replacement lamp thanks to good friends here on the forum! Thank you!!!

Darren J Wallace

Speedo is a model 26 I believe

Darren J Wallace

The speedo is for a 1912, or very early 1913. I have this on on my early '13.

Darren J Wallace

My car was built in late September early October of 1912, and was striped, and it was painted blue. I had this photo colourized and it comes out blue but I don’t have that photo handy. This picture is from 1929, original owners daughters wedding. I’ve posted it a million times

Darren J Wallace

Looking for all brass font with burner for the 1912 early 1913 Jno Brown tail light model 105. I’m trying to restore my original light and the font and burner are missing. I would also be interested in a complete light, or a donor light or what have you as my original all brass light is in pretty to...

Darren J Wallace

This is the oldest photo I have of our Canadian 1913. According to what I have found out about the car and it's serial number, it may have been built in Sept/Oct of 1912. The original owner's documents which I have says John Horman of Tavistock, Ontario, bought it in the fall of 1912. The results ar...

Darren J Wallace

I too am a happy customer of Mike's. I'm very happy with the top kit I bought from him for my 1913 touring. Very high quality materials, and a great guy to deal with!

Darren J Wallace

Thanks to two good model T friends here on the forum, I've found 2! Thanks Steve & Ron, and the MTFCA!

Darren J Wallace

Many thanks in advance!

Darren J Wallace

Needs to be in useable condition and like the one in photo. Thanks!

Darren J Wallace

My early Canadian '13, built in I think Sept. or Oct. 1912 has double beaded, billed front fenders. Engine number C872

Darren J Wallace

Can anyone tell me what the MAXIMUM inside diameter of the phenolic material with it's 4 metal segments can be machined to before it is deemed too big? Also, what was the original inside diameter supposed to be when these were new from Ford? I'm referring specifically to the 1913 cast aluminum timer...

Darren J Wallace

Sure is Pete

also...do you still want those Stewart castings?

Darren J Wallace

Just as the title says, probably wouldn't mind two of them so I have a spare. It would be a huge help to me if you take PayPal. If you don't, I can send a US bank draft which are safer than personal cheques and I'm in Canada. Thanks in advance! Here is a photo of what I think I need:

Darren J Wallace

Hi Ron, tried to call you, but number you gave me didn't get me to the right place

. I've sent a PM here. Thanks

Darren J Wallace

Looking for correct 1913 aluminum timer and roller for my 1913 in decent condition that won't break the bank

Darren J Wallace

Finished a new top kit installation from Classtique. Very happy with the quality and my results!

Darren J Wallace

A little more progress....too cold to tack to the bows. Classtique left the Murphy fasteners off of the bottom row so I could match them to the car's original fastener positions. I wonder why they put them on in such a manner?

Darren J Wallace

Thanks again everyone! I still have all the original side curtains including the ones in the old picture, but they're only good for copying. They're pretty beat up and petrified. That's a project for another winter!

Darren J Wallace

Much better now!

Darren J Wallace

Had to correct the top pad on the driver's side, the pic was taken before I did that. These projects require a gazillion checks and rechecks. So far, all the dimensions are really good. I've been using a pictorial guide from Royce Peterson's website and it's been a huge help, with a lot of time sav...

Darren J Wallace

Had to correct the top pad on the driver's side, the pic was taken before I did that. These project require a gazillion checks and rechecks. So far, all the dimensions are really good. I've been using a pictorial guide from Royce Peterson's website and it's been a huge help, with a lot of time savin...

Darren J Wallace

More pics from today's work

Darren J Wallace

Thanks guys for your input! I'm going to leave it off but may take Keith's advise and see if it can me made "removable" without messing up the rest too much.
Larry, thankfully, Clastique's great top kit has a better sized window! Everything is going fairly well and yes, I have no finger pads left!

Darren J Wallace

Here are the top sockets locating bushings for lack of a better description, they're quite thin, and not like later ones which are much fatter looking, and the original material over the front bow if this helps.

Darren J Wallace

This photo from 1989 shows the original rear window

Darren J Wallace

Darren J Wallace wrote: ↑
Sat May 25, 2019 9:07 pm
In this picture of the car from 1929, you can see fairly clearly there was no flap. I see the top straps running right to the front bow. Even though the car is 16 years old in this picture, what are the chances that piece was removed?

Darren J Wallace

In this picture of the car from 1912, you can see fairly clearly there was no flap. I see the top straps running right to the front bow. Even though the car is 16 years old in this picture, what are the chances that piece was removed?

Darren J Wallace

I'm installing a new top on my early Canadian '13. It had a new top sometime in the past and the original "top covering" was still on the bows up until today. Because of the amount of tack holes in the wood needing plugging, I decided it was best to replace the front bow top material covering. As fa...

Darren J Wallace

Installed the correct style coil box in my early '13

Darren J Wallace

Yes, this is the sheet, thanks for posting Keith!

Darren J Wallace

Thank you very much Larry!

Darren J Wallace

Does anyone have a good resolution scan or a copy of the printed sheet originally glued on the inside of the 1912-1913 KW coil box? Thanks in advance!

Darren J Wallace

I used gloss black paint and a very tiny brush, then some 0000 steel wool to bring out a little better definition than my shaky hand would allow, and to give a sort of matte look you get like the anodizing gives. I need to correct all the little mistakes......

Darren J Wallace

So I did this....two of the original hubcaps were very badly cracked so I got a couple of new ones and relegated the bad ones to the tool box....

Darren J Wallace

Painted my hubcaps for my '13

Darren J Wallace

Very cool Keith! Thanks everyone for chiming in!

Darren J Wallace

One of the hubcaps on my car.There is a raised edge around the front but it's very faded.

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