MTFCA Forum

Thanks for all your comments. All of this was done before I started replacing stuff. I have jumpers cables & a 12 volt battery jumped directly to the starter and still the bendix just winds into the fly wheel and won’t turn the motor over. The 6 volt battery in the car is new & checks out fine. Put ...

Car was starting just fine now it won’t. Now I have a new battery, starter, starter button , new cables & a new bendix. It will turn over enough to wind the bendix into the fly wheel and stop. You can crank this car and drive it anywhere but the starter will not work. What is the wrong ???? Thank yo...

Car was starting just fine now it won’t. Now I have a new battery, starter, starter button , new cables & a new bendix. It will turn over enough to wind the bendix into the fly wheel and stop. You can crank this car and drive it anywhere but the starter will not work. What is the wrong ???? Thank yo...

I do have a 1915 engine just finishing the rebuild.
Call me at 7202204744 and we can talk. I am in Colorado

Thanks Craig i will look into all this info.

Model t hubs that have been modified to take a model a wheels
Call Ron 420-220-4744

Hi Scott would like to buy 2 or 3 valves for nh carbs
My name is Ron Jackson phone is 720-720-4744
Thanks Ron

I would like to know where to buy the float valves.
I am in Colorado and we have some hills. Need try it out on the top.
Thanks Ron

Are all the 3 speed warfords for amodel T new and old the same gear ratios

Again I would like to thank all you guys for your help. I have found the charger I need thanks to John Regan

How would I find this John Regan do you have his phone number or email thanks, Ron

They have had a charger that could be wired to your mag post to charge a 6 or 12 volt battery. No one has them any more. Does anybody know where to get one. I am looking for one that will charge a 12 battery. Thanks

Ok guys thank you for all your ideas. I found that I didn’t have the neutral adjustment bolt tightened down enough to allow it to be all the way into neutral. So I just needed to recheck my work. Thanks

New rebuilt engine starts & runs good for two or three minutes then it seams to tighten up and the engine slowdown until it dies. It will start right back up and do the same thing. What do you all think.

Ok guys thank you all. I changed the condenser with another one and ran a ground wire to the distributor housing. And I am back on the road just remember that all new parts some time don’t work. Thanks to all Ron

I have a fronty head on my model t with a distributor on it. 12 volt system, I can install a new set of points in it and it will start and run ok. But when I try to restart I find the points are burnt what is wrong with this is there a set of points that are to be used only on 12 volts Thanks for yo...

We have had this problem from the start we let the radiator seek its level we installed a tall head & then we put on a water pump but still have the same problem

We have a 1915 touring car new radiator a high head flushed block & a water pump. Runs cool but when you turn it off the car boils over what is left to do

Is there a group of guys that have parts and just talk or is there a club where I can talk to these guys that run frontys

I am looking for a carburetor to be used on my fronty head. I have tried all kinds but still have not found one that is right