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Completely disassembled and cleaned, viton tipped float valve, tested float, new choke spring and ID tag, test run
$185 postpaid to continental USA email: wlkma9@gmail.com

Completely disassembled and cleaned, new venturi, float, choke spring, viton tipped needle and seat, throttle shaft bushing installed, test run. $600 postpaid to continental USA email: wlkma9@gmail.com

I’ve put together a lot of Holley G carburetors, there’s about 80 seats in that picture since I started saving them, but I’ve never came across a mixing chamber cover that read,”Holley Bros”. I know the earlier ones (pre-T) said that but I’ve never seen it on a G. Lots of different variations though...

If I’m short one of those one is rusted through with pinholes or something) I just use a regular throttle plate with holes the only problem is if you don’t have an earlier shaft with holes you have to drill some in the round shaft which is tricky but doable. I think they just made them with the tabs...

Completely disassembled and cleaned, tested float and polished original needle and seat, new choke spring, test run. $165 postpaid to continental USA email: wlkma9@gmail.com

Completely disassembled and cleaned with nice original flapper. New needle and seat, tested float, new choke spring and test run. $220 postpaid to continental USA email: wlkma9@gmail.com

Viton tipped conversion, new float and venturi, throttle shaft bushing installed and test run. Crack free bowl, $650 postpaid to lower 48 or pick up tomorrow at Duncan swap meet. Email: wlkma9@gmail.com

If anyone needs a carburetor I just got to space C66.
I have an H1, done G’s, brass L4’s, L2’s a Simmons and a cast L4. Also have some H1, U&J, Holley S and G floats and H1 bowl seals.

Completely disassembled and cleaned, throttle shaft bushing installed, new choke spring, venturi, needle and seat and correct sized float, reconditioned spray needle and spray nozzle, test run. $200 postpaid to continental USA. email: wlkma9@gmail.com I know the idle adjustment lock screw is missing...

I can take off $100 if this is to be a spare or replacement for an existing H1 and you can use the inlet elbow assembly you have already. There are more H1’s than elbows and it takes only a minute to swap them from carb to carb.

Completely disassembled and cleaned, viton tipped needle and seat conversion, new float, venturi, choke spring and spray needle, throttle shaft bushing installed and test run. $675 postpaid to continental USA email: wlkma9@gmail.com

Pat’d Dec 22, 1914 Holley G, new correct size float, float valve, venturi and choke spring, reconditioned spray needle and spray nozzle, throttle shaft bushing installed and test run. $200 postpaid to continental USA email: wlkma9@gmail.com

Completely disassembled and cleaned, throttle shaft bushing installed, new correct sized float, float valve, choke spring and venturi, reconditioned stay needle and spray nozzle, test run. $200 postpaid to lower 48, email wlkma9@gmail.com

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New needle and seat, correct sized float, choke spring and venturi, reconditioned spray needle and spray nozzle, throttle shaft bushing installed, test run. Original crack free bowl. $295 postpaid to continental USA email: wlkma9@gmail.com or call (903)-681-2871

I got a chance to work on a couple Kingston 6 ball carburetors. Don’t see those too often. Had to make a new choke shaft for this one, plus a float.

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New correct size float, float valve, venturi, choke spring and throttle shaft w/bushing installed. Reconditioned spray needle and spray nozzle, test run, Dec 22, 1914 patent date with brass mixture control knob and hex idle adjustment screws but steel bowl with ring around the air horn probably corr...

Never said it was one of yours, just a modification so someone won’t have to purchase one separately later if they wish. Not selling them separately. Got your email this morning, maybe you should mind your own business. If I were putting it out there as one of yours that’s one thing but anyone with ...

I never said it was one of yours, Scott, just that it is one and it works just the same. I’m not selling them separately, just including one that I made so that someone doesn’t have to purchase one separately later. I’m not selling them separately but if you can modify a part to go into a 100 year o...

Short arm style, passages cleaned and sealed with set screws, tested float, reconditioned spray needle, new spray nozzle, choke spring, 1/8” oriface (full flow) float valve installed, test run, $245 postpaid to continental USA email: wlkma9@gmail.com

Pressure tested tall float for cowl mounted tank, passages cleaned and sealed with set screws, reconditioned spray needle, new spray nozzle and 1/8” oriface (full flow) float valve installed, test run. $245 postpaid to continental USA email: wlkma9@gmail.com

I always see those on L4 Kingstons, but not very often.

It is important to know in case you are buying a new interior with the hole for the handle as such. I have here a factory photo where the area for the latch is cut out and stitched around. Not sure if they were all like that but if you get a new kit with a hole there is about a 1” difference. It is ...

Here are some pictures of the 2 different 1914 door latches.
Both use the exact same strikers and mounting screw locations. Their construction is slightly different but the main difference is where the handle itself is located.

Thanks Art, yes that is the one with no daylight showing around the handle. The other style that I have now is 2 1/4” at the spot where the other is 1 1/2”.

Keith, I have the striker plate. Unfortunately I have the same latch that you have there already. The one that you can’t see the light through where the handle goes in is a shorter distance from the handle to the rear of the latch. It’s only a 1/2 or 3/4” difference but it makes a difference to matc...

A couple pics of mine and the interior still fitted to the car with the style latch I need.

I’m looking for a door latch for my runabout. I’ve determined that there were 2 different ones, don’t know if it was because of 2 body makers or what but the handle is in a slightly different spot. The one I need has the handle closer to the rear. It is easily identifiable by where the handle goes i...

I’m not sure I’d use the element, I just wanted to try it out. When you remove it the hole is already the right size for a 10-32 tap and then I put a screw there to plug the hole.

Those holes are part of the Holley idle circuit with drilled passages replacing the previous pickup tube used in the H1, G and S. The beginning of the passages begins in the mixing chamber and picks up the gas that flows through them at idle. The H1 and G had a pickup tube that screwed onto a fittin...

You mentioned at first you suspected a leaky float but have since corrected that problem. If it is set correctly with a new float and it doesn’t drip after sitting then that all should be ok. When you put the carburetor back together is there any chance that you forgot the gasket under the spray noz...

Thanks for the replies, while the handle may be bent, bending it back won’t make it line up with the hole in the door panel. There is about an inch difference in the center of the hole and where the handle is. George, just looking at the pictures, does the handle look set farther back on the one whe...

The door latch on my 14 isn’t original to the car. Either it is a rear door latch (don’t know what they look like) or they made 2 different styles with the handle placement slightly different than the other. I was thankful to purchase this interior from Mr Art Ebeling here in the forum and I have a ...

I rebuilt this H1 that came in with a later model Holley G throttle arm which looked out of place. I located an early Holley G throttle arm, made a new throttle shaft and a couple filister head screws and it looks almost the same as the H1 arm. Had to make a new spray needle as well.

You can soak it overnight in citric acid then let it dry and lightly wire brush it and it will come clean.

The #4 exhaust valve broke in my 1914 right after I’d gotten it running in 1994. I didn’t know this was common so I just replaced the one and made a keychain. I’ve ran it since with the other 7 still there but I’ve got a new set of valves for my speedster engine I’m working on now.

You can use an NH throttle shaft and plate in an L4. Brass one uses the long arms. The choke shaft is larger diameter and the lever part is different, choke plate is larger.

Allan, I’m thinking that the babbit-lined brass 1/2 bearing “floats” between the cap and the crank because of the clearance. As it moves forward assisted by the spring loaded wedge it’s prevented in the same way from moving backwards. So when the bearing cap bolts are tightened there is still enough...

Does anyone have any experience with this type center main? It was in an engine I bought to use in a speedster, wondering if I should use it or fit a regular cap. The spring loaded wedge forces the 1/2 bearing forward.

I know this isn’t the middle but I had to relocate the handbrake lever to the outside for my speedster I’m building. You can move the lever anywhere on the shaft then make a bracket to hold the quadrant.

Here’s what an L2 float would look like in an L4. A little too big. If you’re good at soldering you can put an L4 hinge on an NH float. Just remove the NH hinge and solder it to the side without the recess where the NH hinge goes.

You could bend a curve in your throttle rod to clear the manifold then weld a little piece in the middle if it needs to be longer. You might use a reproduction throttle rod instead of modifying your original one. I took a reproduction throttle rod and re-bent one end then added a piece in the middle...

I made this video. Don’t know how to post a link but you can look it up on YouTube.

The reason you had to work the choke a lot is because of the missing flapper. That flapper is a weighted air valve. When idling the flapper is closed it allows less air to flow and more gasoline to be picked up. As the engine speed increases the airflow causes the flapper to rise up and allow more a...

Simon, I’m not finding it in my regular email or my spam folder. Maybe give it another try, sometimes computers don’t do what they are supposed to. Thanks.

Simon, my email is wlkma9@gmail.com. I can put a viton tipped needle in there and remedy the problem of the original setup.

It’s supposed to be a modern design. I read a story about it one time saying that one of the judges or commissioners had a friend in the construction business and whatever went on resulted in the new courthouse. The first one was built in 1910, here is a picture of it being demolished in front of th...

I saw this old picture today at the rehab where my grandma is at in Tyler. It was too long to take a picture of all of it with my phone but this is most of it. It looks like a 1913 touring sandwiched between 2 1914’s. They’ve got the horses and cars parked in separate locations. That is the old Smit...

I heated the center part of mine red hot with an acetylene torch then cooled it with water to shrink the metal. I did this a few times until I shrank it enough I had to tap it on with a hammer.

I worked on this one that someone had soldered a part on to use the mixture control from inside, but it should be fine to set it and forget it like Mark said.

3/4” ID 1” OD. The felt is still in this one.
Allan, that’s right about the 2 screw coming first I believe because it has the clamp screw for the hot air pipe like the 3 screw but it was later omitted.

Martin, the groove is 1/16”, 3 3-16” OD.I go to a place that rebuilds hydraulic cylinders for heavy equipment and get o-rings to go there that are the exact fit, seems to work fine. I also put an o-ring under the cap in place of the felt gasket.

There is also a fitting that is tapered and seals with the carburetor body by tightening the nut (part #4572) and the male threaded portion extends through the nut and the inlet elbow threads onto it. You have to assemble the taper fitting-nut-elbow prior to installing it on the carburetor body. Her...

There’s 3/16” difference in height but the choke shafts are in the exact same location.

The bowl gasket is a cotton rope that fits in a groove in the body. Don’t know the part number.

The shorter G is the same length as the NH.
Hard to tell because of the perspective but the long arm NH choke arm is the same length as the G.

The Holley G you have pictured with the ring around the air horn is a bit shorter. The other brass and cast iron G’s are the same length. These are all the Holleys from 1912-1919.
The choke arms are all the same length.

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A few more pictures.

Completely disassembled and cleaned, viton tipped needle and seat conversion, new float, venturi, choke spring, spray needle, crack free bowl, test run. $575 postpaid to continental USA.

Completely disassembled and cleaned,passages sealed with set screws, new viton tipped needle and seat, spray needle, choke spring, tested float, reconditioned spray needle, test run. $245 postpaid to continental USA email: wlkma9@gmail.com

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Early G with single choke arm and mixing chamber cover reads “Detroit” which was later dropped. Completely disassembled and cleaned, new correct size float, venturi, needle and seat, choke spring, reconditioned spray needle and spray nozzle, test run. $235 postpaid to continental USA email: wlkma9@g...

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Completely disassembled and cleaned, new float, float valve, choke spring, venturi, reconditioned spray needle and spray nozzle. Test run. $235 postpaid to continental USA email: wlkma9@gmail.com

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Completely disassembled and cleaned, new float, needle and seat, venturi, choke spring, reconditioned spray needle and spray nozzle, test run. $235 postpaid to continental USA email: wlkma9@gmail.com

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I was looking through some pictures and I found this. I got this one this way, I’d say it’s an early 1915 based on that it still retains the Pat’s Pending mixing chamber cover but has the first version of the T shaped spray needle which has the brass crossbar threaded on and pinned. It also uses ste...

Completely disassembled and cleaned, passages sealed with set screws, new choke spring, spray nozzle, viton tipped needle and seat, reconditioned spray needle, tested float. This is the regular size float making this is a 1925 since it has the clip type throttle and choke plates but not the taller f...

When I first got my 14 it had an NH in it and I wanted the correct carburetor and somebody sold me a Pat’d Dec 22, 1914 Model G. It had a steel bowl with the brass round knurled adjustment needle. Then I got to thinking that if the carburetor itself wasn’t even patented until after the 1914 model ye...

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Completely disassembled and cleaned, new float, needle and seat, venturi, choke spring, throttle shaft bushing, reconditioned spray needle, test run. $245 postpaid to continental USA email: wlkma9@gmail.com

Completely disassembled and cleaned, passages sealed with set screws, new viton tipped needle and seat with 0.125 oriface, spray nozzle, choke spring and ID tag, pressure tested float, reconditioned spray needle, test run. $250 postpaid to continental USA. Email: wlkma9@gmail.com

I know now why the gasket sets were like that. A lot, probably most, of those bowls are bent in at the bottom but they were originally flat and can be straightened to be flat again. This bowl appears to never have been deformed and as you can see with the bowl gasket installed there is that much spa...

I noticed the last few sets of NH gaskets I’ve received were missing the spacer that goes between the body and the bowl (left in picture). Today I got a couple more sets in the mail and once again this piece is missing. I wonder was there was a batch of sets put together without them? I’ve been find...

I get the gaskets from Snyder’s. Only the bowl nut gasket fits from the G.

The staples that hold the plates on the 4450 2-screw carburetor are the same as the later carburetors. The bowl nut gasket is the same as the earlier H1 and the later G. The top bowl gasket is specific to that model. That earlier 2 screw is the first version of the H1. I don’t know why they would go...

Here is the H1 needle and float arm. Yes, the S needle is triangular. I might can get a better photo with my iPad, my phone is shot and it’s hit or miss on getting it to take a picture at all.

I believe the one on the right is a replacement.

Not trying to be a know it all, or maybe out of curiosity, why did you leave this part out?

Here is how you can make a choke spring from an NH choke spring when you get that far.

The original non-replaceable seat and how you can modify it for a modern float valve.

Michael- I bought one for my 14 from Russ Potter in 1994 or 5 and used it exclusively until 5 or 6 years ago. They seem to be good running carburetors, I think the original float valve setup is a drawback but it can be replaced with a modern one. Martynn- I’ve got plenty 4-ball pictures I can post t...

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I say transitional because like some straight through models have an ID late, this swayback has the little vent usually associated with those earlier models. It’s only the second one I’ve seen like that. Completely disassembled and cleaned, passages sealed with set screws, new throttle and choke pla...

A few more pictures.

Completely disassembled and cleaned, excellent throttle shaft with new bushings top and bottom, new float, venturi, needle and seat, choke spring, reconditioned spray needle and spray nozzle, test run. $225 postpaid to continental USA. Email: wlkma9@gmail.com

I can’t quite make out the serial number on it. It’s interesting to me because mine has the same cast date, October 1913 but the serial number indicates a January 1914 build date. Too bad I don’t have any extra cash or I’d take it.

Completely disassembled and cleaned, throttle shaft bushing installed, new float, float valve, venturi, choke spring, reconditioned spray needle and spray nozzle, test run. $225 postpaid to the continental USA. Email: wlkma9@gmail.com

Brass Holley G, completely disassembled and cleaned, new float, venturi, float valve, choke spring, reconditioned spray needle and spray nozzle. Test run. $225 postpaid to continental USA. email - wlkma9@gmail.com

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