MTFCA Forum

1,000 feet would be enough for 250 cars. Should be easy to initially sell lots of 10 sets to each of the four major vendors. That’s 40 sets right there. Why don’t you have 1,000 feet made? Should be easy to get it custom manufactured exactly the way you want it if you order enough...

I have enough of the correct “Orange Drop” capacitors for T coils on hand that I could spare some. They are the ones recommended for decades by the more knowledgeable coil rebuilders. These are the round ones so you will have to remove the glass spacer in your coils. 4 for $20 8 for $35 100 for $370...

1- Horn has way too much amp draw.

2- Partial short between horn and switch.

3- Very weak magneto.

Are the inserts hardened? If so, reaming them will probably ruin an expensive reamer.

These were inserts that were swedged and brazed until sometime in the mid teens. Then they were inserts that were swedged and NOT brazed for a few more years. Then they were changed simply to a hole that was punched inwards and the “bent in” steel hole was threaded. The one you have is the “un-braze...

It’s in the FORD instruction manuals as one of the first things to check.

Yes, EVERYONE who does any kind of vinegar or acid soak with their cooling system or block might be asking for trouble. Not right away, but maybe 20 years down the road...

It’s like bleaching an original revolutionary war flag to get clean it up....

I have 2, 4 foot high stacks of used field coils. Probably about 100 of them. I can guarantee that EVERY one of them is a gamble, even if tested. There is probably a 50/50 chance that any one of them may or may not last a couple years. Why chance a failure and disassembly, replacement, reassembly wh...

I think he might have a fixture for removing them. Call and ask if it would cost any more to have him remove it.

What may discharge your magnets is if DC current from the battery is allowed to flow into the field coil. Whether the engine is running or not. This can be caused by a wiring fault, improperly connected wiring, poorly insulated wire harness ends touching each other on the ignition switch, or somethi...

Here’s another one... A Model T has appeared in “The Simpsons” a couple times.

: 4D6CAB35-B316-446C-8375-2A9A2087309A.jpeg (30.86 KiB) Viewed 267 times

Cam lever looks long. Is it for a car or TT?

Properly support the gear. DON’T press on the tips of the gear teeth.

Piston to cylinder or piston pin fits are too tight.

Notice that the cars in both those pictures have the same plate. (Same car, maybe even same day)

Heat.

Take the whole car to a body shop and have it baked in their spray booth a sufficient amount of time to bring all the wood up to temperature. 130 or 140 degrees was pretty common to force dry most paints and may be effective in terminating insects.

The bottom line is this: If you drive correctly, you can get 3,500 miles or more out of a set of good cotton linings. Some people can’t get them to last several hundred miles... The people who get long life from plain cotton linings will likely NEVER have any problem with Kevlar linings and will be ...

It isn’t for fixing spindles with a worn out bushing diameter. It puts a small amount of controlled bind on the spindle to help prevent shimmy issues that were fairly common on some T’s with 21” balloon tires. The shimmy issue can be eliminated by proper endplay on the spindle bushings and proper ad...

It is a marine engine. (Boat motor). It might be a Lockwood-Ash. I believe they were about 3 hp. There should be a flywheel on the rear end of it. Anyone who can fabricate the missing head can certainly make the flywheel too. The flat casting is to mount a single spark magneto and the bronze casting...

Wet sand with 800 grit, then 1000 or 1200 grit if you want a smoother finish. Rinse with water and wipe dry with clean paper towels. Don’t treat, seal, or paint with anything. A T steering wheel should never be cleaned with anything but plain water. If it gets sticky or makes your hands black, then ...

A pm has been sent to your email.

How about an oil shutoff valve for the leaking oil?

Hmmmm... I wonder why most tire manufacturers quit making all white tires in the 1920’s ??? Could it be because black tires were superior and white ones were inferior ??? Actually, I think that is a fact!

As previously stated, the driver you had WAS too small for the job. Had it been correct for removing the bushing, you very likely would have driven it out with a 5 pound sledge in about 6 wacks. The small diameter shoulder of an undersize driver actually peens the bushing into the bore and makes it ...

Looks like there is plenty of bushing there. The indent is from your driver tool. I’d say that either you have the wrong driver or it’s poorly made. The outside diameter of the driver you are using is too small.

Use the brass laminated magneto field coil shims between the block and hogshead. You might have to make the hole in the shim bigger.

jaybee47 wrote: ↑
Mon Jun 22, 2020 3:08 pm
Very very slow and unable to climb a slight slope even at full throttle.

Sounds like the average TT to me... Maybe nothing is wrong with it? Find an experienced TT owner and see what their opinion is.

The oil system in the Model T was designed to provide the right amount of oil. Not too little and not too much.

My first thought is you have to practice shifting. There is sort of a knack to shifting a T from low to high that if you don’t do it just right, it will “buck”. Experienced T drivers might refer to this as a “bad shift”, although that may be so far back in their driving past they might only barely r...

You Have To take the baffle out. Check this out:

A poor connection anywhere between the battery and key switch will allow the full unregulated voltage of the generator thru the lights if they are on. If the circuit to the battery is opened with the engine running at speed and lights on, the lights will instantly go super bright and burn out in abo...

That definitely works, but originally there were no hog rings or plywood involved. There is a “V” channel at the base of the cushions and back springs that gets pried open. There should be cording welt sewn into the seat covers on the sides that just gets pinched in those channels to fasten the cove...

If I find good ones without pedals at swap meets for around $50 I’ll pick them up. If you know what to look for and look them over carefully, you generally find cracks or defects in about 3/4 of them. The aluminum is old and porous and welds poorly so it’s real hard to repair them. Not being negativ...

Unfortunately, the engine and maybe even the rear axle are very likely to have suffered catastrophic damage too (even if only slight alignment issues are apparent now). In my opinion, it is probably totaled for whatever you have it valued at on your insurance. If you were to pay a professional to fi...

I opened up an engine once that obviously hadn’t been touched for decades. There was a serving spoon inside the crankcase.

Not all ‘13 tourings need those brackets. Some bodies were properly built and didn’t require them.

There was a motor oil with graphite called Krex being sold in the late 90’s or around 2000. I remember it being sold at a GM dealer I worked for.

I air them up with no valve core in place and allow all the air to escape about 5 times before installing the valve core and final airing up. That allows the tube to move around inside of the casing and self align itself so there is no stress or bunching on the stem. Odds are fairly good that your i...

I have one. $30 plus shipping. Email if interested.

That’s what I tell telephone surveys... The answer here is: -Kevlar bands -New ductile iron low drum -Original Ford reverse and brake drums are okay if in good condition. -Original Stock Ford clutches that have been properly cleaned, inspected, and qualified. -Original clutch spring that tests 95#’s...

Just a little food for thought here...

Survey results can be biased. They are the opinions of people who answer surveys...

AA cranks are vanadium steel EE cranks are high carbon steel AA is more prone to cracks and breakage but less prone to wear. EE is generally a bit more durable but more susceptible to wear. Its less likely to find cracks in a used EE crank, but many used EE cranks wear a lot at #3 main and the wear ...

The bronze gears are worth $30 each at the scrap yard. You can practically break even on your time even if you open them up and nothing is usable... (When you get them home of course)

Put a good shot of diff lube in there, at least 8oz, or as much as it seems to “take”. I believe its there more or less just to pre-lube that rear bearing real good after a fresh rebuild. The internal motion of the gears does not initially supply enough oil to that bearing. Another point of great im...

Post a picture of your bands. Maybe what was in the “Scandinavia” box isn’t a proper band material. You see this sometimes at swap meets and on eBay... There are some old-time band materials that are a bit too thick.

I’ve experienced a chirp like that twice on T’s I’ve worked on and both times it was a head gasket leak to the outside from Cyl #4. I suppose it could come from any cylinder. You will likely have pretty cruddy rust out around the water passage and/or a warped head that needs to be cut. Less possible...

If you have a race car, you drive it hard on Saturday night and work on it every other night of the week...

Is it possible that the root of the issue is that the parts are operating significantly outside of their original design parameter?

Stanley hardware.

Definitely a timing issue then. Much more likely to be an easily solve-able ignition timing (timer) issue and far less likely to be a timing gear issue.

Some recyclers allow you to mix it with drain oil in a certain percentage and dispose of it with your drain oil. Check with whoever recycles your drain oil. Any gasoline that has an unusual odor should be disposed of. You run the risk of varnishing or sticking your valves if you use it. The deposit ...

If it kicks back it is most likely an ignition timing issue. Something is wrong with the timer or roller, or a bunch of backlash in the advance mechanism and/or an incorrect initial setting. Popping thru the carburetor would indicate the fuel mixture is too lean, but the popping would not cause the ...

I’ve worked on a couple engines that had the spiral style knurling and they they had moderate but noticeable issues. The issues were oil burning and the equivalent of high vacuum intake leak (lean mixture at high vacuum conditions). Bear in mind that the T doesn’t have any valve seals and because of...

My ‘13 touring’s engine block was cast 107 years ago today too...

I haven’t done that myself, but that sort of milling is something you can do on those heads and often will work with no ill effects. It will probably run just fine.

The stock clutch, properly adjusted, with a good used spring (95 to 110#’s at 2”compression) will not slip and is nice and smooth. It also protects the engine and drive-train from unnecessary shock loads...

TT front crossmembers ARE different than the car crossmembers! It’s the usual culprit when someone has an issue with the radiator inlet not properly aligning with the water outlet on the cylinder head. Usually what happens is someone replaces the front crossmember and a car gets a TT crossmember or ...

Best just going to joann. For around $9/yd there is some plain black cotton chair canvas back in the corner with their small selection of upholstery fabric. Nobody makes correct closed car seat fabric right now, so just put in something cheap that looks okay and wait. You can sometimes make real nic...

Looked thru my brackets this morning and I don’t have any. Also, I’m not sure these are an “E” casting number. I think they may/may also be a number similar to the TT bracket. I’m thinking the pre-‘26 bracket should be the same except the location of the side hole might be off.

It’s a TT Ruckstell part.

Tighten up a loose cage, install the bearing on an outer so it can be checked. Run it for a season. Pull it out to check it. You can pretty much guarantee it will be loose again. The only real fix I could possibly see would be to disassemble the roller bearing assembly. Re-machine the cage ends, mak...

Rod, I emailed this morning. If you don’t already have one coming, I have one available that I could ship with your other part Monday.

They are generally pretty hard to find...

I should have one that’s already restored with a new bushing installed. $60 plus shipping.

As I have always understood it, the SERVICE pin was larger than the FACTORY pin (Meaning the pins sold as parts to dealers and meant to replace existing pins were slightly larger than the pins originally installed at the factory). I haven’t seen the prints, but if this is the case, I would guess the...

Maybe what you want is a “pole spreader”? Might be available from a supplier to the rebuilding trade.

As far as I know, the vendors have been “out” of new ones for years...

John, Did you check the hardness of the new pins with a file? How do they compare to your originals?

Once you use any type of spray, especially the copper spray, the head gasket is done for and should be scrapped. If the gasket was originally put on dry, or with a thin film of grease, then it might be re-usable. Ford actually issued a service bulletin to the effect that head gaskets should not be n...

You could re-rivet your old tube. A tapered mandrel driven in will hold the heads from the inside. You do the rear rivets first and then the front ones. Easy to make a mandrel, but you need a lathe.

Dan is absolutely correct! NONE of any of the Model T pistons are ready to use right out of the box. They all have to be honed. Typically a regular automotive machine shop would set clearance on a piston like this at .0005”, but they actually need a little more than that. I generally set them up at ...

Absolutely DO NOT USE MAPLE!!! It breaks like glass! If you put it in a press it will snap in half and both pieces will fly. When you put hickory in a press it bends before it fractures. Past the bending point all the fibers hold together like a rope to a certain point.

you can make all the spokes from one piece of wood but if the center hole is not tight the car is being carried buy the bolts!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! charley That’s absolutely correct! That is why the bolt holes are between the spokes and every pair of spokes has a bolt between them. Also, the correct ...

These were standard on the TT rear axle outer bearings.

I got some hose from snyders about 2 years ago that fit fine thru the hole in the apron of my fairly original’13 touring.

That front bushing has to be pressed far enough into the driven gear shaft that the front end of the bushing is about flush with the front of the driven gear keyways. If it isn’t that far in, then you have likely found your problem.

I didn’t watch the video, but for what it’s worth; I have prints out of the Benson Ford for several wheels and the hub outside diameter to hole inside diameter is between a few thousandths slip fit to a few thousandths press fit. What was important was the precise relationship between the wedge and ...

It’s an accessory part that was put over the end of the tappet because the end is worn too deep. People used these shims when they did a valve job instead of replacing the tappets. If they aren’t worn thin, you can leave them in there. If you have the cam out, you should replace the tappets.

Well... Because they are maybe $0.03 each and a perfect fit. But maybe I’m just a stickler for details... I also had these made up to add a little “bling” to the coils. (But seriously, there is nothing wrong with making the “homemade” shims from old points. It works too.) D52F4A5F-5A9C-4085-8B9D-195...

Many coil rebuilders use 5mm metric washers. They just barely fit over the stud and are the same outside diameter as the standoffs.

Non demountable bands have more clearance than demountable bands. Even in the earlier iron hogsheads, over 50% of them don’t have sufficient clearance for demountable bands. The Ford Service Manual had instructions for converting earlier iron hogsheads for demountable bands but the only reason you c...

I’ll take the steering gear cases. Email sent.

Measure it first! I’ve seen plenty of “junk” drums that are oversize enough that they clean up nice at close to standard. Particularly ones out of early to mid twenties engines. I have a suspicion that during periods of high production demand that drums may have been turned and ground to a larger sp...

Mr. Hanks, Is this your item? How are you connected to it? Where are you located and what kind of Model T do you have? I see you have 39 posts here and that you only post to the classifieds and post a random, “very expensive for what it is” ebay item every few days and they are from various vendors ...

I hope nobody actually tries to use this thing and then wonders why the coils don’t hold their adjustment! I’m sure the mechanism disturbs the spring tension to a certain degree.

You mentioned in the beginning that the engine was newly rebuilt several years ago. The only way the balance ring could get loose and is inside the engine is if it was broken in half, which is possible, but generally unlikely. It can happen if someone steps on the starter when the engine is at speed...

Here’s a little food for thought: The Model T engine always stops in the same position probably 80% or more of the time. With this in mind, any unusual stress caused by a free start has a large cumulative effect on the same piston, rod, & journal. As a matter of fact, the T engine, when it is turned...

I think a “free start” puts an unusual and aggressive load on the crankshaft and bearing. I try to avoid it. The best way is to have your throttle completely closed and the engine at low idle when you shut the key off. I also remember on a couple occasions hearing people that had T’s back when they ...

Bobt, Are you sure you have the right tires for your rims?

It has to be the CR seal. If your seal supplier crosses the number to a different brand, it likely won’t work.

I’ve seen many poor quality aluminum cam gears over the past decade. Most of them were not machined all over (rough casting visible in the disc area where it didn’t require a good finish). Some of these gears had up to .007” indicator runout and some were okay. A cam gear with runout that binds the ...

My vote is a generator with a slightly bent front shaft.

I’ve always stocked the complete spindle arm bolt, nut, & bushing kit from Bob’s and probably 8 out of 10 times I put them in I don’t have to ream them. In the cases I do have to ream them, it’s because of a burr or something obviously wrong with the spindle arm hole.

The water in that gas is the result of heating and cooling cycles, humidity, and condensation in an open fuel system over a moderately long period of time. It likely isn’t because of a “quality problem” with the fuel itself. Or maybe you dumped gas in there from your Boyco gas can with the cork in t...

I see 2 TT C-cabs in the background...

Properly made spindle arm bushings generally don’t require reaming. Sometimes if you get them a little out of line, or raise a burr, you might run a reamer thru to fix it, but they are not supposed to be an undersize bushing that requires reaming like the spindle bushings (kingpins).

It might have been caused by a meteor.

Generally, spraying anything or even just dripping a little gasoline or anything similarly volatile around the rear intake port usually leads to a mis-diagnosis. The vapor tends to get sucked in by the carb and significantly changes the idle speed even if there is no leak at the manifold to block co...

Ran across an issue a couple years ago in a Model A with a new radiator and a high volume water pump. It would overheat around 40 mph & higher. A flow restrictor was installed in the upper hose. I think it was a washer with a 3/4” hole and the problem disappeared.

Any bands that are being shipped in any condition that is not ready to install “as is” should be returned for a refund!

When it’s a 3 hour drive to a Saturday show, the best thing to do is leave Friday after work and camp overnight...

Search found 618 matches