MTFCA Forum

There are TONS of nos parts out there that aren’t very good quality.

Anything specifically sold for cleaning cooling systems will likely be just fine to use. Avoid vinegar, muriatic acid, and products not meant for cooling systems.

And of course, look what they "gave" us last winter! :twisted: :evil: A virus could randomly become zoonotic anyplace in the world at any time. It’s as easy to understand as the Model T ignition system... I think that's a good comparison. Some people understand it, some don’t, some don’t care, some...

It looks like stop-leak to me. I bought a car a couple years ago that had some pretty nasty antifreeze in it with oily stuff floating on top. The top hose was hard, wrinkled, and shrunken, probably from whatever the oil was staying near the top when the engine was cool. The car had a newer radiator ...

I have a 1913 that I've owned for over 60 years. I started restoring it as a teenager, and put a copper gas line on it. It is still on the car today with over 57,000 miles. I've never had a problem with it. I Agree! I also have many thousands of miles on my T’s with copper fuel lines and have had z...

$295 will buy it. $15 will ship it anywhere in the continental USA. Please contact me by email only. Please don’t post here or use the pm system. First email in my inbox gets it. Thanks!

The taper and keyway is in good shape and not worn. The drum is a brand-new drum from McClaren that is currently not available from them and is on backorder at the vendors. The studs are all brand new and have been properly swedged in with the correct tooling on a hydraulic press. $225 will buy it a...

The originals are “spin-riveted” and isn’t something the average hobbyists has equipment for. I have used pop rivets from the back side and back up washers on the front. This works with the hard plastic insulators as well as the paper ones, although the paper insulators are not ideal.

Terry: That was quick! I couldn’t resist...

Get some chickens and keep them in your backyard. The eggs are free.

You have to run a ‘26/‘27 hogshead with a wide brake drum because the pedal shafts have different spacing. You can, however, use earlier pedals in the ‘26-‘27 hogshead. There may be some customization involved with the floorboards, or bending the pedals, but it depends on what combination you are tr...

Yes, now show it at about a 45 degree angle instead of straight on so I can see how deep the bushing is pressed in. I’m thinking that the bushing isn't pressed in far enough.

The paper insulating washers are insulating in two ways: As an insulator and also as a gap. There occasionally can be quite a bit of very fine metal suspended in T engine oil. That oil can wick into the coils and the paper spacers help to reduce leakage between coils and to ground. A pinhole in a ve...

Please post a picture of the bushing in the front end of the brake drum shaft.

Additional info that may help: In every transmission I assemble, the final “Test” I rely on is pressing the disc-drum onto the transmission shaft and leaving .018” clearance to the washers. I then use a dental mirror and a flashlight to look straight into the hole for the set-screw. If the threaded ...

Adam How do you tell if you have a correct 26/7 disk drum? By what I have in my shop notes: The early disc drum that is designed for use with the thinner “top hat” style bushing will generally either have NO Ford script on it anywhere, or it Will Have the Ford script on the Same Side as the machine...

Someone refresh my memory. If the front bushing in the brake drum collar isn't installed deep enough, won't that reduce end play? I'm talking about where it would sit against the radius of the main shaft. You are correct. If the front bushing isn't pressed far enough in, there can be a clearance pr...

Just because an old ingot says anything on it does not mean that is what the ingot is... Here you have some ingots that were used as ballast in a sailboat. It is quite possible that someone decades ago found an old mould that was the right size for what they wanted to do and then cast a bunch of ing...

I’m pretty certain that all the driven gear shafts and all the transmission shafts were the same dimensions throughout production. The clutch disc drums changed dimensions when Ford made the change in the rear driven gear sleeve bushing from the one piece “top hat” style to the plain bushing and 3 w...

You only see a pm if you are logged in and many people don’t log in. It would be a great improvement if pm’s would generate an email that says you have a pm. I wonder if this Is something the club can address?

Something’s wrong. All 3 thrust washers in the ‘26/‘27 trans should be the same size and you should end up with some free-play. Off the top of my head it’s around .014” but I’m not in the shop now and can’t verify. I have a bunch of good used original thrust washers and can surface grind them to any...

Hey Bob, If it makes you feel any better, that gas gauge looked like a poorly sealing, potentially dangerous accessory to me. Maybe a neat display item, but that’s it!

$18k ! Ruckstell, distributor, and “aluminum” Ricardo head...

This same sort of thing is also real common in original, used T front wheel hubs. If you set up a dial-bore-gauge and measure all over the inside of the bore, you can easily determine if the bores are properly undersize and properly round for correct fit of a new race. Many times, you will find a bo...

I have a pair. $195. Email if interested.

That motor mount is for a TT truck.

I have one available. $200. Email if interested.

See if you can find a radiator shop that is willing to clean it out, pressure test it, fix any little leaks, and guarantee it, without “coating” it with anything inside or out. The only problem with a fuel tank that has any flaky rust inside, is that when the rust is removed, it is probable there wi...

Joe, If you are going to try using one of those Sure Mike cranks, my advice would be to use it in an engine you build for yourself, not in a customers engine. You can be prepared for and understand the possible negative outcome and accept that risk, most customers might not be so understanding... Mo...

Brand-new inner and outer races are a total of $29.85 from Snyders. Used bearing races are kind of like used motor oil...

ivaldes1 wrote: ↑
Sat Dec 19, 2020 11:48 pm
Word is he's using recycled tobacco juice as paint now since it is historically correct.

WELL, Finally an explanation of that paint problem on the rear fender!

Before you make plans, contact the tire dealers and see what is actually available. Some tires have occasional, and sometimes long backorders.

The biggest difference you will notice between a ‘12 block and a ‘16 block is about $2,800.00. They both run the same!

FYI... The rubber stem “Hartford” brand tubes available from Universal and some of the T vendors for the last couple years are of excellent quality. I’ve probably installed around 30 of them and haven’t had any complaints.

That’s nothing special... The left front fender on the T I drive year-round looks worse than that!

One of my customers was looking for one earlier this month. I sent an email to Birdhaven and an email to Chaffins on 12/4. They both have made the voltage regulator style cutouts. As of today (12/14), I haven’t heard back from either of them.

Old art prints that have been hanging on someone’s wall for years (sometimes even only a couple years) are often faded and can be quite disappointing when seen in person. They can be a really hard thing to buy without actually seeing in person. As you can see in the 3 links posted above...

If you put a washer under the nut, it effectively makes the bolt a little shorter. If you don’t have enough thread engagement, you risk stripping the threads out of the block when you torque the bolt. Be very mindful of that.

I believe that Bob’s Antique Auto Parts in Illinois made them in brass and they may still be available. Every original one I’ve seen was cast iron.

Hold it in place with two fingers of your other hand.

Back in the day, there were some accessory brows made specifically for addition to “plain” fenders. I believe they went on with some small machine screws or small rivets. I had an old original fender with one of those well over 15 years ago. I think the part from Rootlieb may not work very well (or ...

Like I said, it’s hard to judge from pictures... But it does appear there are no oil grooves in the bushings which may support some of your theories that these bushings may be oillite. Looking at the pictures, the fractures could be crystalized (work hardened) normal bronze bushing material and just...

By the way the broken pieces look, and the way they apparently failed... Something really doesn’t add up here. I’m thinking there may have been some sort of an installation error. But it is really impossible to tell from pictures. Anyone would really need to see the whole assembly in person to make ...

That particular Warford transmission will give you: Underdrive - Neutral - Direct drive. It isn’t as desirable as the larger “Three speed” which would also give you an overdrive, but still has some value. I’ve seen several sell over the years in the range of $75 - $300. They are popular for use in s...

$1,400.00 and in Canada...

Another common problem is that almost nobody realizes that T car and TT truck front crossmembers are different. It’s not uncommon to see a TT with a T front crossmember and there is a severe mis-match between the engine water outlet and radiator water inlet.

Joe, I had one come in several years ago, not only with a mix of heavy and light rods, but 3 stock Ford pistons and 1 domed cast iron. Wonder if that had any imbalance? Tom, Your #3 journal is probably on the “better side” of average for something that was in service a few decades. What I can see of...

Jim, According to your measurements, you have .040” clearance between the pistons and bore... Ideally, you should have .004”... 3.750” would be about standard. Something doesn’t make sense...

Most of the ‘26/‘27 EE cranks wear off center on the 3rd main. Usually if they are worn .008” or more on the 3rd main, the wear is all off center and usually won’t re-grind at -.020” or better. Those cranks are high carbon steel and not the chrome vanadium steel of the earlier cranks. The EE cranks ...

Hi Joe, It’s yours if you want it. I just sent you an email with my information and phone number. I prefer to not post phone numbers here. If you don’t receive the email, check your junk mail folder. Sometimes emails thru the forum go there. Thanks!

Bonnet has a heavy dent in it, but doesn’t seem to have cracks. The rim does have some cracks & dents. There are a couple spots of rust-thru in the bucket, but not heavily pitted on the outside. $60 and shipping inside the continental USA is included. First email in my inbox gets it. Please don’t po...

On a T enclosed car, you hang the headliner BEFORE you install the top material. (In other words, you hang the headliner with the top covering material off)

I’d have to say that just about every very good looking and very good running ‘16-‘27 T may be WORTH around $12k-$14k. Some may SELL for more and some may SELL for less. Who knows where their info came from...

At a large swap meet, old 21” tires that are soft & pliable, look okay and still have tread might fetch $20 each. 19”s might go for that too. Old Clincher style tires generally have a lot of issues that straight sided tires don’t have and their quality is very subjective (most used ones are no good)...

The “good ones” from Rocky Mountain Machine have been off of backorder for a couple months now and appear to be a nice tight weave like they were for years before. They are my first choice. If you can’t find them at the major vendors on Friday, send me an email and I can help you out. I generally ke...

If someone would pick up everything there with no further work on your part, and also takes all the old tires, a price tag of “free” could be pretty fair. If you dispose of the old tires, $50-$100 for the pile might be a fair price. There could be several hundred dollars worth of parts there if “pro...

Regarding Ford Script .031” pistons: Shortblocks rebuilt at Ford branch plants received those size pistons. Ford’s “in house” rebuilds are probably the major source of those pistons, but they likely were available as parts stock too. The reasoning behind the .0025” and .005” pistons were that they ...

That’s what it is alright. A fantastic price too!

I posted this in response to the picture at the bottom of page 1 showing all the different “size” Wisconsin plates from 1925: Wisconsin started with low numbers on January 1st and issued plates consecutively. So, generally a “low number” was more likely to be a “carry-over” registration from the pre...

I’m interested to see what Larry or RV says about finish and if that is documented in prints or something. I’ve seen them both ways and generally assumed many may have originally been black.

I saw that ad a couple weeks ago, so if the parts aren’t gone yet, that will tell you something.

Weren’t the ‘13 KW coil boxes painted black “Originally”?

Are the vendors out of stock?

There is a modern seal that fits in place of the can for the inner felt that works way better. Machining a carrier for a modern seal that replaces the washer inside the outer sleeve is also the way to go if you have a lathe.

Early housings are a big can of worms! Most originals are bent and also loose enough at the differential rivets that they will leak quite noticeably when put into service. Just mentioning that in case you’ve never done one before. If you don’t carefully dot all the i’s & cross all the t’s on that pr...

I stock new ones and have used them on various customer projects over the last 17 years without any known problem. The only thing I can think of is that new petcocks never fit right in new Brassworks radiators. The lower outlet of a new Brassworks radiator always had to be tapped out some more so th...

A punch mark like that is probably not from a hardness test. Generally if a part like that is hardness tested, then only a sample (one part or a few parts) from each batch of heat treating gets tested, not every part. The mark that a diamond penetrator makes for a hardness test on a gear or shaft wo...

The TT rear axle actually rebuilds quicker and easier than the car axles once you know what you’re doing. There’s no setup work for mesh or lash. The only inconvenience is bigger heavier parts. You need a TT wheel puller & sleeve puller. Used gears are fairly subjective regarding wear. An excellent ...

That is some top-notch speculation...

Why is it necessary to comment on something from nearly a month ago that is marked “sold”???

Steve hit the nail on the head! Yes, the suppliers do call things brass when they are really bronze!

I’m sure if you call Steve or Don and ask if they are brass or bronze, they will tell you “bronze”...

Actually, they originally were made of bronze, and all the spindle bushings being sold by the major vendors are bronze also. Bronze and brass are actually different materials. Brass wouldn’t last too long as a bushing material in this area.

Tim, Bob’s original post DOES say the key boards ARE available separately.,,

Yours for $20 and shipped free inside the USA! Email only please. Don’t post here or send a pm. The first email in my inbox gets it. Thanks!

Yours for $45 and free shipping inside the USA! Email only please! Don’t post here or send a pm! The first email in my inbox gets them. Thanks!

Gone......

It was a well known fact (back in the day) that you never paint the contact surface of a belt pulley because the belt won’t grip.

Powder-coat will NEVER wear off unless it is of extremely poor quality.

Gene, Pull the spark plugs, put it in high gear, and hand crank it...

How many pounds at 2” of compression?

The plastic case coils generally don’t work too well, even when they are new. Send them all back if you can. As far as I know, the only new coils that had a decent reputation for working properly were the ones purchased directly from “Fun Projects”. Also suitable would be “properly rebuilt” original...

Is there an advantage to putting a TT rear on a speedster? YES, so you can win First Place at the Slow Races! But kidding aside, it was a much heavier built axle with a lower gear ratio. The lower ratio meant the vehicle moved quite a bit slower but could carry much more weight. The axle shafts are...

Open up your transmission inspection cover and look inside. Put your hand lever all the way forward. Now move the clutch release shaft left and right. It does have a certain amount of lash. The mid-point of this movement is its natural center and where the internal clutch release parts aren’t wearin...

And those are the recommendations of an oil supplier sometime in the 1930’s by the looks of it...

All of “today’s” oils didn’t exist then. Things change...

Last chance if anyone wants it. $30 will buy it, which means it would arrive at your door for less than $50 bucks... If there are no takers in the next day or so it’s going to be machined in half the long way and made into a nice wall-hanging display piece for my shop. There would then be an opportu...

I don’t believe the felt repair is the best way to solve the leak issue. The shaft should be allowed to float left and right on its own. If you push a piece of felt against the hogshead and clamp it, you are loading the internal clutch release forks, the bronze clutch release collar, and the clutch ...

Here is a bare aluminum Warford six speed transmission case. It has a “bite” out of the input flange. Otherwise is in good shape. I’m listing this because there are many of these out there that are in far worse condition (such as badly cracked cases) and this could be an easy repair for a qualified ...

It’s probably just bad shifts.

You close the throttle when you shift, then open it slowly to pick up the load in high gear.

Same as you would when driving a manual transmission except the location of all the controls are different.

I think he’s talking about the pedal shafts. If it is indeed one of the last trips of the season and you’re going to fix it this winter; The best advice is probably just to keep an eye on the oil level and let it leak. By the way; The “often-mentioned” hardware store o-rings set into a chamfer under...

That repro you have is a fair (not excellent) reproduction of ONE of the styles that were available. If that one doesn’t fit okay, then an “original” that looks just like it might not have adequate clearances either...

$100. The first email in my Inbox gets it. Please don’t post here or send a pm. Will ship within the United States at cost.

I remember seeing someone at Hershey with a whole stack of them within the last couple years.

Sold

Sold

If I remember correctly, the early and late style hinges aren’t interchangeable because the fastener locations/style are different.

I just took a look at the link posted for the “new aluminum tank” for $750. I wonder if they’ve sold any and I wonder if it fits properly? The welding looks very disappointing, like it was done by someone with very little experience... $300-$400 is a fair retail price to pay for a nice used original...

It’s broken off in a way that the remainder in the tappet should be fairly loose. A left handed drill bit thru the valve guide from the top should turn it right out. You will, of course, have to fabricate an “extension” for the drill bit, but that’s an easy “creative” task.

Receipts and documentation will tell you what has been done. If you don’t have that, then a basic visual inspection of the inside the engine and transmission by someone very knowledgeable may give you a basic idea. Complete tear down and measuring would be the only way to know for sure.

That would be a 23” rim for a 30x3+1/2 clincher tire then...

As Mark mentioned, there are some different style rims and some may fit your wheels better than others.

The original tappet bores on early blocks are broached with oil grooves that allow excess oil to drain back into the crankcase and there are no drain holes in the bottom of the valve galleries. If the block ever gets reamed out for oversize tappets the reamer will eliminate the original oil drain gr...

Larry, As far as I know, all the TR coils from Minnesota came with that already done too.

If you’re going to the trouble of doing this on a milling machine and don’t already own a 90 degree countersink; just set the milling head at 45 degrees and use any regular end-mill.. Lock the quill and use the knee to obtain your depth adjustment.

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