MTFCA Forum

Wishful thinking is that is was drained 60 years ago and you won't find a tank full of CRAP ! '26-'27 tanks are not reproduced but there is an outfit in Texas, I believe that will "restore" it if it's really bad.

Threads are 3/8 - 24.

Sent you a pm Gary - do you the arms also ?

Barry - do you have a copy of the Ford "Bible" ? It has a chapter specific to adjusting the clutch, bands & about everything else you might want to know about your T !

I'll get a pair out - I'll be back !

Thanks for the information !

Hank - "early" as in low ???? If it's a low head, I'm your man !

I probably have an extra set, if needed.

Only one gasket - #2580 goes between the ball cap & trans. cover.

I have a new brass reproduction - must be 25-30 years old.

Email headed your way !

I have found that with new axles, sleeves and really nice used bearings are a bit tight ! I usually measure my bearings to have a few thousands wear to slide in nicely with the new Lang's B.Q. sleeves.

There are 2 different sizes Ron - I have some of the larger size - you'll need to measure your new stems.

I believe Firestone demountables utilized 5 lugs.

My experience has been that wooden linings are best installed with the trans. cover removed.

Thanks for assisting in identifying them for me, Walter - the shop that they came out of also had a '10 Runabout.

I believe these might be for the Torpedo - I didn't measure the eye bolt hole but the shank o.d. is .5005. Drop me a note through if interested.

They appear to be Hayes.

Did you re-torque after several heat & cooling cycles & were you informed to do that by your builder ???

I sent you a pm - check your mail !

When I was regularly building engines (until a couple years ago) or doing engine servicing, I would use copper coat on the copper head gaskets and go through a minimum of 3 to 4 heat & cooling cycles - re-torquing usually the next morning COLD - 30 + years and yet to have a reported failure.

Thanks John - I sent you an email.

My machinist buddy polishes my used drums on his crankshaft polisher - baby-butt smooth !

Cut-off Touring limits what else you can do with that configuration - if'n it was the Runabout body, at least you could interchange between the turtle deck and a factory steel box - price seems fair, though !

Put my name on it, John !

I believe I have a set - I'll be back !

The "original" Tiger had a maroon insulator ring- some older & modern repros have an orange one.

Did you add on an additional ground wire from the distributor body to the timing cover ?

I've always "dabbed" Vaseline on my Anderson - at the pivot & on the contacts - never worked correctly "filled" as some folks do.

That is a stock oval tank - what you are referring to as the filler being moved to the end was actually where the original sediment bulb would have been - you're looking at the bottom.

I believe you are headed down the correct course of action - then you will know what you have !

FYI - for those not familiar with "The Improved Car" - take notice of the definite "swoop" in the front axle !

Was the "switch plate back" a repro ? They use smaller then stock Ford screws.

Actually - it's a '15 - the 1916 brackets were riveted together.

Erik is correct.

Did John take over Herm's Babbitt business ?

I thank you for the explanation - my Racer has the Gates taper-lock pulleys.

Dan - why do you suggest "splitting" your tapered bushings ?

Yep, that will surely do that !

I believe one used the oil in your oil can - 30 wt.

I run a SRBD on my RAJO BB and with the humidity here on the coast, I had to run a "heat" pipe into the throat of mine. The SR's seem to be a bit finicky anyway !

You are assuming his column is out of the car !

Most likely a bigger hammer and a real good steel drift - I've always taken the tops off - easier to pound down !

I'd be interested in the mount - don't need the "Y".

I might have a disassemble one - I'll check.

Yes, that's the carrier you need.

No, they're quite a bit larger.

I changed the bands out in a Mercury body T w/no door - good thing I was 25 years younger - couldn't do that now !

I only have a riveted driver's side mount - I believe Hank Lee had a matched set a couple weeks ago available.

Figured you'd a "eye spyed" that, Keith !

Those appear to be the correct "equal" length hinges - your w.s. frame mounts are incorrect - I might have a pair or Hank might.

Like this ? It might be earlier ?

Non-starter Ford "O".

This is the "side" mount on my Gramps' Express bed TT he bought new in Seattle - I've never seen another and it was made specific for the Express box - the body of the carrier matches the beading in the box sides ! It's only for a 32 x 4.5. - my Gramps had the front wheels & tires exchanged for "bal...

I have 2 original, 2 repros & 1 better repro - drop me a note through here & I'll send you a photo.

I'll check for you, Don.

Have you verified that the distributor ROTOR is turning ?

How "new" of a rebuild is it ? I'd attempt to squirt a small amount of motor oil in the low reading cylinder and check it again to verify the reading.

Richard - for a proper compression test, remove all 4 spark plugs with the throttle wide open & crank away

Too bad Charles - I just sent mine NOS/early take-off to Texas last week - it was posted a month ago & Fastenal won't ship to mid-west or east coast for the time being !

Take notice of the front axle - that is a great example of the '26 - '27 "drooping" axle & correct spindles !

A couple months back, one of the guys' wife on here was making Model T masks - my friend's wife in B.C. made a pair for my wife & I.

And - "pump" is a misnomer as the T isn't pressurized thus all those bolt-on gizmos are indeed "water circulators" !

I'm in Jack's "camp" on this one - I made this simple alignment gauge - tells you in a glance which end is going where !

Nice job, Tim !

I use a 20 ton and a cage.

Detachable band ears should always be on the pedal (driver's) side.

Pretty sure those are '14 only magnet clamps.

No worries, Matt - early on in my "learning" years, I used safety wire on my own engine work and found wire pieces during an oil change & trans. screen cleaning - Yep, want to guess where it came from ?

The grease cup pointing down IS the d.s. bushing greaser albeit a large one - can't see the u.j. grease cup.

Yes, there should be a flange on both bushings. The whole in the shaft is for lubrication BUT originally, that hub would have had a plug in it where one would have pumped in 600 wt. oil - I'm assuming there is now a zerk fitting there.

The "small" bolt on your Kingston SHOULD be a drain petcock - the large nut holds the bowl on.

If you're in doubt Matt, look in the Ford "Bible" for installing a cotter pin in the wrist pin bolt.

I reviewed the piston photo - one leg of the pin SHOULD be pointed down along the rod !

I would re-install the cotter pins into the wrist pin clamps just like they were - I've witnessed "wire" fail in that position.

Depends on how you intend to drive it - personally, I run good used Hyatt/Ford roller bearings although I've been in the business/hobby for over 40 years, I've been fortunate enough to have access to good used parts. If you intend on occasional driving about, the repro roller bearings will suffice -...

I use the coilbox on my distributor equipped T's.

It's a 1913 body for certain.

FYI - that fits a 21" wheel.

I have a set if Hank can't supply.

The speedometer drive is "whonky" - it should be loosened up at the pinch point & rotated so the cable attachment point is pointing towards the rear of the car.

That T presents itself very well !

One item I see is the generator brush cover - the gap where the retaining screw & nut is what should be straddling the cutout post - someone seems to have done a little handy grinding of the band for clearance !

I've found the easiest way, for me anyway, is to install the top hose (largest & longest) onto the cylinder head outlet with a finger swipe of clean oil or chassis grease on both parts, drop 2 modern S.S. hose clamps onto the top hose then position radiator aligning the previously installed top hose...

No, unfortunately they were long gone before I inherited the old girl !

Susanne - I have several original gas gauges in cars and I've replace the original cork floats with the Model A gas gauge modern material float - they work perfect BUT I only run "clear" gas in my T's !

I read in a Ford Truck publication that only 33,000 of that box mounted on factory trucks were built - I have one that my Gramps' bought new in Seattle in early 1924 ! My Gramps removed the screens to add sideboards as he used it for hauling bulk.

Thanks Joe - you're a lot closer than I am !

Funny Kevin !!!

I like Rich's idea regarding a 1/2 seat cushion to lower the child's seat - I installed a lap belt in the center of the rear seat in the '14 Touring so our 5 y.o grand daughter can see out between me & Nana.

Simplest procedure is to make a go/no-go gauge from sheet metal that is 13/16" across and begin with that measurement near all three finger positions between the back of the throw-out collar to the driven plate - adjust each adjustment screw to provide equal distance & the clutch spring is compresse...

Good point, Jim !

Agreed - as we get a bit older, it's easier on the "old bod" to just remove the engine and you get a much better job at sealing up the trans. cover !

That's the "thrust" bearing down there - use a block of wood & press it out.

Yours appears to be leaning too much rearward.

I just wired up a stock Model A - 6 volt, positive ground with a Signal Stat 900 w/pilot light. I installed all LED lamps with the both rears having a inline resistors - all worked good AFTER I removed the switch & ground the thick paint off the column, including the pilot lamp. I used the flasher t...

I believe open & closed cars used different length support arms to position the spare correctly - I'll go dig out my parts books.

I would have to say yes - most likely the short top one. The spring clips for that spring are tough to locate - later clips seem to be too long ?

Thanks for the explanation, Jason !

I have a set of original brackets - drop me a note through here. I'll get a photo.

I also have a 3 speed Warford with the Ruckstell.

Original Ruckstell hand shifters were reversed on the TT chassis - the shift rod didn't cross over the torque tube.

Thanks for the explanation !

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