MTFCA Forum

Appears to be of the '26 - '27 variety - especially the 2 pc. rear - photo perhaps of the rear ?

Are you referring to the valve guide or the lifter boss ?

Nice photo & wire wheels !

Thanks Mark - I knew it was an injection system but didn't read the article. One wouldn't know without being familiar with that particular unit.

I also have several in my parts stock - if interested, drop me a note.

It's a 2 cylinder diesel.

These are the only slingers I install - manufactured by a well respected T guy !!!

That would be a fine thread.

The thread is 3/8 - 24.

You can leave the bands loose enough to tie them down to gain clearance for the firewall but as Steve J. stated, you do need to tip up the engine to maneuver it under the firewall - no need to lift the body !

Sure - be much easier with the steering column out of the way !

Appreciate it - Thanks !

Steve - I assumed most T folks realize one should mount the lining prior to installation in the T - appreciate the clarification !

Would you mind measuring the lengths for me ?

Those cutouts appear to be just that - cutouts. they don't appear to have been modified to accept a diode but John Regan is the expert in that field - maybe he'll chime in ?

I've had this on the '19 Centerdoor for many years - works great and the floor "kick" register is on the wife's side so she can can control the cabin
temperature !

Flip the cutouts over so we can see the bottom connections.

As long as the Scandinavia linings don't have a "musty" aroma, I'd use them - those look excellent - just soak them in fresh motor oil prior to installing in the car.

Just a "heads-up" on your disc wheels - the rim bolt should be parallel to the rim not crossways. I have the same discs on my Racer.

Actually Allan, Ford equipped TT's utilized a 23" split rim.

I have one with the T part number & cartouche - can't verify if original - does the one you purchased have a number & cartouche ?

I have a '24 with 32 x 4.5 (23") on the rears - I believe the 600 - 20 (20") came out in 1925. I don't believe you're going to have much luck matching the tread between fronts & rears.

Thanks John - I have found more than one casting "tweeked" a bit most likely from rough handling. I check coils on my surface plate, poles down and check for "any daylight" showing beneath any of them before using a depth gauge to check each mounting boss just to verify.

If you don't mind a wooden block under the hood, there's an accessory clamp that holds tension on the control rods - available at Lang's.

https://www.modeltford.com/item/3524-25T.aspx

Question John: are you grinding the four mounting locators prior to facing off the poles or visa-versa ?

I second RV's response - I did the same procedure.

Anyone have a photo ?

The headlamps would have used the "lever" on the ignition switch to turn on - dim one way - bright the other way.

I believe they're a later production as in '25 - '27.

With this statement in mind, "The clutch fingers set screws are all the way forward." I'd venture to guess that you need to read the Model T Bible regarding setting your clutch as per the book to start then see which direction you need to follow next - it's all in the book and quite simple language ...

Can't help with the regulator but that sure was a great TV show hosted by Leonard Nimoy !!!

Looks like Rob H.'s Model K Roadster !

And, I would use the steel gear, given the choice !

The steel 4 spoke was the first helical gear following the straight cut cam gear. I'm assuming following the introduction of the Ford electric starting system.

Yes, the Bosch ZR4 dual is the ticket BUT rare & pricey ! When I built up my BB RAJO racer, I searched for quite some time for one but at $1600.00 near 30 years ago, it wasn't in the budget !

My Gramps drove the "family" grocery store TT until the late 50's which he purchased new in spring of 1925 from Wm. O. McKay Ford in Seattle.

Ernie has to be "One of the Best" in the business ! I've seen many results of his leather work - simply fabulous !!!

When did you last remove it ?

I also use a glue gun - just a dab here & there.

They appear similar to a Torpedo tank cap.

I believe I have the window cranks BUT I don't have the "special" wide shoulder screws that retain them to the regulator.

Thanks for the clarification.

Are you referring to a radiator part or the inlet housing attached to the block ?

A "not-so-close" larger photo of the bracket itself would be helpful - appears to be a standard "black" model up to 1925.

The top tin would be easy to fabricate - it's the "linkage" tin that is complicated - I have a similar heater in our Centerdoor - my wife loves it - it's on her side so she has control of the "kick: register located in the middle floorboard - no cutting of the firewall.

I also have a Craftsman puller as shown - depending where on the T that I'm working, my dykes (side-cutter apparently is the proper term ?) pulls most all of them.

Yes, spare rim carrier brackets "whacked" off !!!

Ditto - thanks Darel !

I've also had dealings with Mike - square shooter, for sure !

Good point, Steve ! Perhaps Mark can post a photo of his hinge from the side ?

I believe you are over-tightening your bolts - I stop at 45 lbs. - run several heating & cooling cycles, re-torqueing at 45 - never have lost a head gasket or stripped the block threads.

I turned Delrin stand-offs for my Standard HCCT - worked perfect.

I've installed 2 W.R. heads on 2 of my T's - all using stock length bolts - bolt it up & enjoy !

Looking at the "rivet job" on the backing plate, it appears those have been "worked over" and the tab does seem be exaggerated.

Check in with Bill's Transport Service.

Heat & cool.

It's an 'older" Bosch VW 009.

I'll call you later Walt - I found one - looks new.

Perhaps you might lay out one lining for one to see the particular weave and measure the length of each lining. Some time after CANTEX took over the "Scandinavia" trade name, they also changed the weave pattern AND shortened them up to 22 & 1/2" to 23" - proper length of each Scandinavia lining shou...

I'll look today Walt - got in too late to call back.

That's NOT where they go - they go on before the clutch drum !

Thanks for the correction !

Sent you an email Jim - this is my "orphan" - even has all 4 of the original hardware ! Check your email.

Firing order is 1243 !

I might have an "orphan" on the shelf - I know I don't have a pair - I'll be back.

I have a bunch Rich - drop me a note through here.

The two with the "round" rim inserts are early - the "square" rim insert is "run of the mill" late style.

Yes, the late Kris Watters from our Carbon Canyon Club ran around with a Pinto overhead in a T runabout - ran pretty good but one needed to see the "adapter" plate to re-align the bore to combustion chamber - it was pretty wild !

It's an old style Bosch.

Good idea Kevin !

I "pinched" the wire on mine onto the overflow tube with a needle nose - I'd have to have an overheated Old Faithful gusher to dislodge it.

I've got the early priming cup head on our '19 Centerdoor - now I'll have to go look !

Thanks for the reply !

Is that what the core hole looks like without the plug ?????

Let's see the "working" side, Tom !

Drill it out & tap to the appropriate sized pipe plug, apply sealer - done.

There was a "special" alignment reamer available for doing the brake drum & driven plate reaming as a unit - one indexes the driven plate to the brake drum, ream & finish installation with the index marks lined up. I balance my drum & driven plate as a unit.

I've had good luck putting the light on a rubber mat on the floor and using my body weight to push in & twist.

No, it a standard bracket.

I meant to say face plates - not motometers - they've been back-ordered forever !

I have a Junior Boyce plate if you're interested - drop me a note through here.

I'll look - I believe I have a bunch.

Not a "FORD" steering shaft ! They are solid 3/4" steel - I just cut one to make a pry bar.

Our '19 Centerdoor does that after sitting a spell - runs a minute then takes off charging.

Yes, that's Dennis and # 2 is Ken Findley form B.C.

Another "very happy" customer - I kinda hated to install the wheels & cover up those "pieces of art" machined hubs !!!

Wish you were closer Joe - I've got quite a bunch of engine parts, blocks & transmission pieces I need to find a new home for !!!

Sort of off topic but it's still about a TT w/6 speed - short story about my Gramps' 1924 TT - I was doing some pruning in the apple orchard on one of my first properties near 40 years ago and was stacking the branches in my "new" 1980 Ford Courier and taking them out to the back "forty" to start a ...

I have that one also, Tim - was going to install it on my wife's brass Fire Chief's rig if'n I ever get it painted !

Vague description - year ???

Put my name on it, Mike ! I'll send you a note.

I also have one available BUT someone "opened" up the spark & throttle guides to ease out the rods.

Check in with Jon Anderson - R.V.'s brother - R.V. follows this Forum.

If it's not bolted into a frame, hit it with your torch, let cool and it will most likely be free or a little "bang-bang" with a small hammer will do it.

It's the remains of a "Spencer" wheel.

There is an article in the Ford Service Bulletins regarding the TT d.s. coupler.

The shifter handle is TT for sure - have seen many Hall-Scott brass car shifter bodies but not too many TT ones.

Just one - we have a '14 Touring.

Yes, there was a 2 speed Warford.

Appreciate the "date" info Donnie - I have 2 originals of that catalog & wasn't sure about the time frame.

That truck is sporting Michelin disc wheels !

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