MTFCA Forum

Actually installed over the last couple days but rolled her out with my "new to me" Pharis Buffalo wires & new Firestones !

I'm quite sure that Al Murray (Murray Motor Car) in Woodinville, WA produces those, Keith - might check with them - I'll check my stash also.

Quite difficult to keep the "round" Jerry whilst attempting to pull them around - I've seen guys try it & cracked the rivet hole out after several attempts !

That's heck of a great suggestion using variable weight spools - man, I shoulda thought of that !!!

Oh, come on, John - play nice !!!

Original 1914 plate - most folks don't realize the "W" isn't for Washington & I'm not saying anything !

Thanks - found him !

title says it - can't seem to locate the thread.

There are two sizes !

Is that NOS cap in a Ford box ???

I believe "drop center's" are easier to mount with the wire rim still on the car - I've done them both ways but if you're concerned about nicking up the finish on the front side, mount from the back side.

If they've shrunk, they might be old Lester Tires made in the good old USA (Pennsylvania) ! We have them on our '14 Touring & I have a set of extra fronts when the time comes.

30 x 3 uses a 24" rim - the 30 x 3.5 uses a 23" rim.

Is it regular pump gas or clear (non-ethanol) ? If it's regular pump gas, I'd drain it and add fresh.

I believe I have several sets - I'll look tomorrow.

I realize the properties of the Nissan, Andy - I'm just stating that you can certainly "feel" the r.p.m. drop & increase when driving.

Anyone need any large Ford script ammeter faceplates ? I have a pile of them !

I'm going to have to disagree with you Andy regarding the comment of "highly doubt you would notice a difference" - I'm running the Nissan and fire all 8 plugs with twin ignition coils & switch on my BB RAJO- I have my fuel pump hooked up to the intake side of the switch and if I shut off the exhaus...

Nice display, Jim !

I understand the Canadian cars used the rib pedal much longer than U.S. production - I'll take a look-see - I have some.

How much ?

Had my crank & lightened flywheel spun balanced up to 4 K r.p.m. prior to final engine assembly - Zoom-Zoom !

Back in the mid to late eighties, there was an article printed in the Vintage Ford with a diagram on how to lighten the flywheel by a Canadian machinist, if I recall correctly. Prior to my learning lathe machine work, my machinist friend followed the instructions and I recall him removing 10 or 11 p...

Accessory "anti-shimmy" device - purpose was to minimize or eliminate "The Watussi".

Steve J. - the 21" radial I referred to above was on a Ford wire wheel '26 P/U.

John - I've never had a tire arrived boxed - just wrapped in plastic sheeting.

Very nice Bob ! I also received my copy of yours & Ron's coil tester book today - great material content !!!

I sent Tony an note already Ron !

We provide "tour plaques" for our annual "Can-Am" Model T tours here in the Pacific Northwest & Canada albeit no longer brass !

I have it - you may "borrow" it to use then send back.

All high pressure clincher tires are made in Viet Nam - no matter the name brand. It's mostly a personal choice for tread design & cost.

A friend is running the new 21" radial & is very satisfied with the ride.

The set of these lights I've seen a number of years ago had a rather complicated socket/wiring & keeper assembly.

To expand a little regarding the accessory band cover screen: I have a couple era screens that are only about 1/2 the size of the available screens manufactured today - when these initially came out on the market, the screen mesh size was quite larger than what comes on today's screen which might re...

Can you post a photo ? Some Stewart drives had a tapered pin holding the swivel halves together rather than a threaded bolt & nut.

Mark - I'd like to purchase #3 & 4.

Keith - I was under the impression that the "heavily crimped" pipe was '12 and the other "not so" were the '13 - '15 style.

Being slightly "vertically challenged", here's my test assembly station - old steel milk bottle crate, some tubing and an adjustable collar for height to hold the torque tube. I use this for setting the r. & p. then after removing the d.s., assemble the other half on this set-up, remove by engine ho...

What band lining you running ?

Cool Jay - that's only the second one I've seen - the other's hanging on my wall !

Back up to the top - thanks for posting the photo, Mark !

Bringing back to the top !

Sure is Warren - consider it yours.

I have a Stevens Timing Tool in the original package - a bit rough, that is SAE thread - I believe it is for a Model A Ford. I'd trade straight across for a Model T size - 1/2 p. or first $100 + the ride takes it.

This mirror is available - $55 shipped in the U.S. Drop me a not through here.

I know I have a '15 Touring & a '16 Runabout riveted - I'll see what else is hanging on the wall !

Can't respond to your posted email, Dave - it bounces back !

BTT - hasn't anyone ever seen any of these ?

Thanks - found him - if he's not interested, I'll post a photo here.

'26 - '27 rods are straight - the earlier have a bend to clear the rear radius rod.

The above illustration is for the '19 - '25 horn bracket which utilizes that head bolt & one of the water inlet bolts - the '26 - '27 horn bracket utilized both water inlet bolts.

It's a common one but wide angle - I think the fella's name was Don w/a '24 Touring ?

Check out the illustration that Dan posted - you can see the where the missing #15 bolt would go !

The fifteenth bolt is utilized for the electric horn bracket !

Someone was looking for an era, unrestored side mirror - heck if I can find the ad for who !!! I dug one out and have photos.

Anyone happen to have a pair (there are left & rights) of the supporting brackets for the Bennett brake outfit ? Photo below - these went from the stock Ford h.b. cross-shaft to the transmission cover to assist in preventing flexing of the cross-shaft. Drop me a note through here, please & thanks !

I might have a mirror in my "swap meet" stuff - I'll check.

You just need one to convert the tail lamp ? I might have the one that used to be available some years back - still in the package - just need to locate it !

Ah Man ! My condolences Erik - your Dad was a kick in the pants !

I might have a set left - I believe they have the thinner bars for the gooseneck spare carrier - be tomorrow before I can look.

Are you wanting a '14 cast date ? I have a '13 that could be available.

"aoto" spelled incorrectly.

Yes, they are Charlie.

Either file the caps down or install a formed shim.

Charlie - the P/U irons are straight thread BUT right where it goes into the bracket, they have a distinguishable taper out about an inch then the round iron begins.

Oh, what nut was loose ? A contact wire terminal nut or the roller retaining nut ?

It's where the roller runs around in a circle. That needs to be very smooth - no ruts or bumps or ?

Either the bowl drain needs a smidge more wrench OR the float level is set too high.

It's a Tiger and a later imported repro, at that - orange colored insulator is how to tell from a vintage Tiger which has a maroon insulator.

Runway/raceway looks a bit funky also.

Original '25 p/u box fender irons have a gradual taper where they thread into the receptacle that is riveted to the side of the box unlike the touring which are straight. I've owned originals.

Yep - back asswards !

Good attitude there, Bob !

I own 5 Model T's, including a OHV Racer & ALL have stock Ford clutches - you really can't go wrong considering the abuse they will take & withstand it !!! As you said, it's a personal choice and you will get other opinions, for sure.

ALL clutch disc drums should be a slight interference fit onto the main shaft.

O.K. fellas - how's this for a water jacket crack !!!!

I searched for a number of years for a closed car mirror or just the bracket that was available through Western Auto Parts & the like back in the day to utilize some of the open car mirrors available . I ended up fabricating my own to mount this oval mirror onto our '19 Centerdoor & being the Center...

Looks like a "hearse hauler" !

Part II - lets see the mirror side & that will assist in determining value.

After market & closed car or cab at that.

I thought we was talking about traction devices !

If Kim can't provide, I have a few.

Best look again ,George - those sure appear to be 30 x 3.5 demountable - not 21" split rim.

More than likely, the most common source for front hub damage is removing & installing new bearing cups - removing causing the most damage. This is a Ford installation tool for installing both cups at the same time - quite easy to use !

Welcome aboard ! Now you went & done it !

Normally a hack or p/u would have a side mounted spare assuming the driver's door didn't open or some accessory (hard to come by) under the bed mounts like a modern p/u.

That's a peculiar mounting bracket on #2 !

How fast do you drive, Keith ??????

I probably have a couple of that type if you're needing one, Mark.

Re: Rear axle thread pitch Stock axle thread is 5/8-18.

Stock axle thread is 5/8-18.

And where did the repro manufacturer obtain the specs. or possibly NOS examples to produce what's available currently on the market ??????

That tool would work much better IF you could slightly pull upward as you turn !

Are you attempting to drill out the pin holding the low pedal notch ?

You might strongly consider the consequences of what IS going to happen if'n you don't repair the problem as most folks here are offering sound advice !!!

The '26 - '27 open car top irons have a defined curve at the body attachment point - what that purpose is, I can't tell you but it's the best way to determine which is the correct year that they were made for.

One's a "B" bowl - the other's an "A" bowl.

Repairable for sure - brushes are mucked up and the brush end is sporting the original Babbitt bushing.

Been running a set in one of my Ruckstells for probably 20 years - hasn't "come from together" yet !

Too many T parts hanging, maybe ???

Mounted new Firestones on my new Pharis Buffalo wire wheels for the '19 Centerdoor !!!

Drop me a note if you need additional assistance - I'm just down the road in Longbranch. I heard you recently joined our local Kitsap Club.

I'd take one of the brake spring tools off your hands, Mark.

Not all sediment bulb valves will fit all sediment bulbs - there are variances in manufacturers !

Scott - the installation & adjustment docs. that come with the repro R.M. brakes from Bud say to adjust them just as Don has them. The instructions also state to attempt to set a clearance of approx. .030 all around which involves slight manipulation of ALL the mounting & hardware points !

All clincher tires regardless who's name is on it are imported from Vietnam from what I understand.

You are one talented Dude !!!

Thanks for the reply Shane - reason I asked was I rebuilt the late model C.I. Warford w/pto capability in my Gramps' TT back in the late 80's and that particular bearing I purchased from an old Model T guy in Seattle - cost me like $60 and I thought I was getting scalped !

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