MTFCA Forum

Where is the rest of the spring ??????? Something (spring?) came from together !

There was a fella in SW Washington who had a railroad buddy call him when the scrap trains came through near Longbeach,WA and he was able to salvage tons of T chassis parts - I walked through shed that he had with front & rear axle assemblies stacked against the walls & another shed with engines - n...

Thanks Fellas !

And, that would be, Don ??? I surely can't make it out !

Dave - the far right one is from a crankcase girdle.

Wouldn't go on any of my T's - scrap IMO !

I sent you an email - I have a few in stock.

Sent you a note.

I believe I have one hanging on the wall - I'll get a photo tomorrow.

It's a front license plate holder that clamps onto the front axle - I have one I'd let go - drop me a note.

Look at the bottom photo Dan posted - they're visible near the top & middle of the panel.

Will need wheel/rim photos to identify just what you're attempting to install tires onto ! Demountable rims or clinchers ?

Did Max put those out ?

That's only the second one of those I've ever seen - other one is in my showcase !

No, it's mounted correctly.

Let's see a photo of the doors - the door hinges will be the same length on a '25 - if the lower hinge is protruding farther out at the bottom, it could be a '24, also '25 cars had steel firewall uprights - not wooden. A true '25 will have a single rear top window.

The correct length for a band lining is 23 & 1/2" - aftermarket linings seem to bounce around mostly on the "short" side.

'25 should be a 2 rivet data plate.

Agreed - do not use any tap - this is what's needed to "clean out" the holes.

I picked this up 40 ? years ago at an antique shop - I think one would be hard pressed to find another ! Merry Christmas, All !

It is going to a new home.

Photo shows a pre '26 - partial bracket in upper right of photo is '26 - '27.

I wouldn't consider +/- 1/8" to be much of a variance considering the forged manufacturing process.

Tight spot would be good use of a Dremel w/H.D. cut-off wheels - just nip off the weld on the top of the nut to be able to get the proper wrench on the remainder of the nut & loosen ?

I have a NOS in the original Wilson mailing envelope w/instructions, I'd consider parting with - drop me a note.

Or purchase a new shifter housing from Chaffin's Garage if you don't have the means to properly re-bush it.

I've rebuilt many rear axle assemblies & have found the best sleeves available are a smidge larger than stock Ford therefore using a near perfect bearing at .498 - .499, install too tight for my liking - I go through mine to locate a .495 - .496 to run in the repro sleeves. I've never in 40+ years l...

Note regarding the 21" carrier shown above - the top bar was double hole stamped to receive either LHD or RHD tail lamp wiring.

I'm running 30 x 3.5 disc wheels on my Racer & used a 4 hole mount with the 23" Y for the rear mounted spare - I measured 2 of the 4 hole mounts both at 4 & 1/4" - 2 of my 3 hole mounts are 4" & 4 & 1/8".

I have one of each - I'll measure later today.

Looking good, there ! If I may point out a long-term parking item, leaving the H.B. lever in the forward position releasing the clutch spring tension tends to squeeze the oil out from between the clutch discs resulting in less drag when attempting to fire her up in the future !

Nothing - same front wheels.

1916 Touring - riveted - nice !

Here's an original '17 with the factory fan shroud - pretty rare.

Pre '26, Melba - the partial photo of the one top right looks like a '26 - '27.

Any chance to get a photo posted of the irons needed - there are different styles for different years - I have a bunch !

My Gramps' '24 TT has the same front bumper as the Touring car in #13.

I recall reading somewhere that there was 33,*** +/- TT C-Cab Express trucks produced - I have my Gramps' 1924.

Yes sir, I could use them !

One step I always do after tire mounting on a split rim is TO NOT inflate to full pressure (32 lbs.) until I've remounted the tire & rim back onto the wheel and bolted it back on !

Thanks for those, also !

Thanks Scott - looking for the rear cone block one ! I sent Steve a note this a.m.

Darel resides in Minnesota.

Would anyone happen to have the "critical" dimensions of the cone mounting block for the same jig ?

Yes - picked it up local a couple months ago ! Might have to retire my old one !

Radiator, hood & cowl shapes are different.

Put my name on those, please !

Aermore headed to a new home - thanks MTFCA !

BTT - photo added !

Anyone happen to have the rear cone mount, cone & shaft for a mint original KRW crankcase jig available ? I'll make it worth your while !

Here's my homemade contraption.

I sent you a reply this a.m., Colin.

I made one out of a 16" piece of 1/2" iron pipe, a 6" piece of 1/2" all thread, a couple 1/2" nuts & flat washers & a 1/2" coupler - grind down one end of the pipe just enough to go over one of the punkin bolts, heat up and flatten one end of the 1/2" coupler, insert the flattened coupler under the ...

Spoken for pending funds - thanks MTFCA !

BTT - open to offers !

BTT - open to offers !

He stated it went from the mag. post to the front.

States $289 + the ride up top.

Both the starter & Bendix run in oil - you need the gaskets !

Only side shot of the rear passenger door I have - my friend's '10 that went overseas a few years ago.

Thanks Larry !

I see no need to comment on my ad, Pat !

Here's a rare find - NOS non-starter ignition switch for the '26 - '27 car. Untouched original w/2 keys. $150.00 includes shipping in the U.S. Drop me a note through the Forum, please.

Here's a NOS non-starter switch showing the dimmer resistor - it's going over to the classifieds.

BTT - anyone ? I have one on the '14 Touring & the '19 Centerdoor - who doesn't like a steam train whistle ?

I sent you an email, Larry - check your spam box !

Mark states the size in his ad !

I might add that I mount my linings to the bands then soak in an old Dutch oven - takes 1 gallon of oil but can do all 3 at the same time with small sticks holding them slightly apart - a couple days soaking then I hang them over the pot with sticks to drip off - still messy but not as messy as doin...

Spoken for - thanks MTFCA !

I use nylon zip ties to hold all together whilst replacing the cover - they USUALLY slip out from under the band ears but being nylon, if a small piece goes AWOL, it really can't damage anything.

Small drum brake rear spring bars both attach to the rear brake anchor bolt.

BTT - open to offers !

Seeing how the 2 rear mounting tabs utilize small bolts, it's most likely a set for a large drum set up - one has to drill out those 2 rivets from the large drum backing plate.

Available is an original set of Ford Improved Open Car side lamp brackets - I'll post a photo tomorrow - $100 postage paid in the U.S. Drop me a note through the forum, please.

I believe I have an extra, Kim - I'll send you a note.

Has your name on it, Ed - thanks MTFCA !

I believe this is NOS or an early take-off. I'd take $80 & I'll pick up the shipping in the U.S. Drop me a note through the Forum, please.

Original Aermore - T size - 1 &1/2" in & out - great condition - 1st $300 gets it & I'll pick up the shipping in the U.S. Drop me a note through the Forum, please.

Don't use a smart phone !

WTF is a "dark setting" ?????

Here - Here, Glen - hope for more to come !

I have several BUT shipping from Washington would nuts !

There were several accessory demountable wheel manufactures before Ford got into the game.

How many miles on the Kevlars ? Could be as simple as an adjustment.

The original Ford hand wiper came in two shaft lengths - open and closed cars.

I have some earlier - need an ammeter ?

Welcome to the madness ! Here's mine - Gramps bought it new in Seattle in '24. Use to take it camping with our 2 daughters when they were small.

Thanks for that information, James !

"15 - '16 caps headed to Art - wire caps still available - Thanks MTFCA !

That's unfortunate to hear but none of us are getting any younger ! My days of maintaining 15 acres is numbered !

He's working on wood felloe wheels, James - different animal !

Corey chimes in here once in a while.

I use my wife's electric glue gun !

I sent you a reply, Art.

Well, isn't Kevin just a "whiz-bang" !!!

Perhaps best to contact that State's DMV.

Corey Walker has done several brass Holley Gs for me and some for friends.

Brass wire caps still available - $100 + the ride - located a 4th '15-'16 cap for a set of 4 - $80 + the ride.

Do you run an air filter, Pat ?

Quite a simple task to remove the front wishbone - piece of wire, 2 cotter pins, 2-9/16" nuts & 2-15/16" or 1" nuts.

Unless you intend on "off-roading" on a dirt track or you live on a dusty dirt road, why bother ?

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