MTFCA Forum

Those are accessory spun brass hub covers - sure "dress up" the wheels - I have sets of spun aluminum ones on my Racer & the Centerdoor (before the Buffalos went on !)

No need - already in contact.

A little history: original car was located in Ballard, WA in the mid sixties, original wood & most sheet metal with the exception of the running boards, original JNO lamps, all of them, re-upholstered & painted in late sixties and inspected & licensed by the Washington State Patrol - we're the third...

Here's ours Paul.

I was kinda hoping he'd chime in - a fellow dropped one off a week ago & am contemplating a restoration.

Me too - I had "Stewart" on the brain !

Drop the bridge washer onto the stem with the "wings" pointing up, install nut and cinch down tight.

Anyone here have a KR Wilson A/T generator test stand ? I have one that I need to determine where several wires need to go ! I would greatly appreciate any assistance.

Paul states that the demountable wheels are Stewarts - they appear to be 30 x 3.5 - kinda rare !

Pretty nice looking ride there Paul - I also have a '14 Touring just up North a ways !

Figured as much Scott - mine all use metal stem but the Racer which 30 years ago when I built it, one could get the correct sized rubber stems !

Here's how I mounted mine Eido - Egypt Garage has about every type of mount you might need without "major" modifications.

That was my suggestion above Scott - metal stem tubes.

Definitely "rode hard & put away wet" !!!

I use Egypt's brackets on both T's - I'll have to look & see if I had to modify the bracket as the Centerdoor has an original 1919 Washington plate that is longer than modern plates - on the '14, I attached the Egypt bracket to my original "Neverout" license bracket - I'll try & get a couple photos.

I'm running them on both the '19 Centerdoor & the '14 Touring - nice product - no problems & have had them on for 4-5 years.

Consider drilling the rim/wheel hole larger to accommodate OR get metal stem tubes. I drilled out 21" split rims for those larger r.s. tubes - not the "proper" fix but !

Some lugs have 2 tabs & some have 3 - I always "tack weld" the backside for safety.

Not easy but it will turn & seat.

Mine doesn't Norm !

O.K. - thanks for the reply.

No repair that I'd be comfortable with - I'll dig one out for you !

Could also be the timing cover has/was never centered using the proper centering tool.

I'll see if i have an "orphan".

It was an accessory front spring clamp bar - apparently, the earlier double u-bolt bracket was a "better idea" !

I believe I have one - be back after lunch !

There was a thread a while back on that subject.

You might consider the advice stated here regarding replacement - that tire has used up it's usefulness ! I've mounted dozens of clinchers as no one around my area will tackle the task - I even purchased a manual tire machine as my knees don't appreciate the concrete floor much anymore ! I always st...

Good to see you back on here, Jay !!!

That's what I have & use for any part that rotates - mine is a Sundstrand balancer.

After you purchase Tim's bracket, you'll need Art's book !

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=7450

I'll take some photos for you.

These are examples of original Ford front license plate holders sans the early 2 pc. ones. The 3 side by side are stamped '26 - '27 - why the one has an additional hole is puzzling. The single one at top is pre '26.

Ignacio - '15 - '16 headlamps have the bulb focus screw at the top of the socket unlike the later & more common buckets which are located to the side of the socket. Any Particular reason for your specific request ? I probably have the early buckets but not sure about the sockets & plugs which the co...

Pre 1926 crankshafts have a "diamond" shaped throw between journals - '26 - '27 AA & EE cranks have parallel shaped throw. I have both EE cranks that have forged EE in the throw & EE stamped into the front where the fan drive pulley mounts.

I'm not sure but I believe it could be a 1924 body as it appears the lower hinge on the door protrudes farther out than the top - indicative of pre '25 body - can you provide a tighter photo of the door ? Also, is the firewall patent plate have 2 or 4 rivets fastening it ?

Drop me a note if you can't locate one up North - shipping from the States could be pricey !

I might have a plain one Brent- be this afternoon before I get out to the shop.

Johnny Buck - aren't those w.s. brackets ?

TT battery holders are mounted outboard of the frame - they used to be available repro.

Common Ford body styles - Runabout is an open 2 seater, Touring is an open 4 seater , Coupe is a closed 2 seater & Sedan was a closed 4 seater

Dan McEachern made those, Allan - not Dan Hatch.

Re: WTB Good Condition Lg Format 20-0-20 Ammeter I'll take a look Brad.

I'll take a look Brad.

These just came up on Ebay - is this the type you were seeking ?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Model-T-Ford-E ... zE&vxp=mtr

I might have some bits & pieces to assemble a set of lights - drop me a note.

You found the problem !

Jonah - a nice NEW repro fan is available for your year T.

The Runabout photo above from the rear belonged to a friend of mine - I did a full chassis restoration on it years ago and THAT is the proper way to tie down in the rear ! I cross the front straps at the perches.

I towed our '19 Centerdoor from Washington to Montana for the National Tour there in 2010 - open deck at 65 - 70 mph - piece of cake !

Quick edit there, Tim.

I'm following Jim here - what year T are you referencing ?

Tim - I believe "demountable" rims were optional but they all used the same hub cap.

There are no shims in the transmission - thrust washers, yes and they wouldn't cause your problem.

Cool - and she's letting you keep them in the house ????

Appear to be MOSPICO - similar to RAJO spindles - cool !

I can most likely help you out with both - be later this afternoon after I get home from town.

I also have dozens of T plugs BUT I don't have one of those !

That's the correct way, Daniel. Appears to be an original switch - most likely the insulators both internal & external causing issues. Those type with the "bend over tabs" don't let you get away with multiple openings so you might bend them up easy & just enough to disassemble for inspection then an...

Housing is the same just the button profile changed.

Where's the yellow wire hooked to ?????

What's the smaller "black" wire on the starter cable post going ? Battery cable to starter switch should and does have the main (yellow) switch feed wire - opposite post on switch goes to starter.

That's exactly what happens to the POS imported type !!!

I'll look in my "misc." bracket bin - maybe ?

Yes, they are bolted onto the bottom front corners of the crankcase - one on each side held on by 4 of the block to c.c. bolts.

Good suggestion & remedy Adam - I did the same on my Grandpa's TT.

I thought RV recently introduced repros ?

Allan - you can see in the photos Donnie posted that indeed the facer is a larger diameter than the axle yoke to properly machine the entire surface. A spindle body bushing is 1.0675 - the Stevens mill is 1.183 which is just over and 1/8" but less than 1/4".

Thanks Donnie - great drawing !

If J & M installed the bushing, I'm sure it's pressed into the correct depth. From the above photo, it appears to have been pressed in the proper depth for the main shaft radius.

Mark - a new spindle body bushing is approx. 1 & 1/16" across the face

Sorry Rich - no orphans !

I don't have anymore of that style - sorry Mark.

Thanks Donnie !

To Mark Nunn - I would assume the O.D. of the mill end would need to be just fractionally over the diameter of a new spindle body bushing.

Nice Donnie - I have the Steven handle but not the "business" pieces - I'd sure like to copy that !

I have a bin full - I'll dig one out today.

'26 - '27 had double holes outboard - those appear to be '25 & earlier.

I'll check Mark - not sure if I have 5.

Should be same length bolts for the bottom.

I'm with you Steve - minimal computer skills and NO smart phone - the old flip phone resides in my old Ford P/U.

The earliest original Ford switches were held together with two screws much like the good USA repro (I believe they're a Ford tractor replacement) - those are harder to find but much easier to "service" unlike the 4 tab type as shown above.

Pardon my spelling - "good old" !

As Dan alluded to above - there's a cheap, imported POS available, who knows why - I won't carry them in stock and then there's the gold old Made in USA switch - I sold & installed dozens without any problems. Are you stating that you had the "better" one of the two go North on you, Allan ?

As a "buyer & seller" on this site, I'll add that as a retired heavy equipment operator, my hearing's not all that great and although I can't type, I can surely read ! The only addition I'll write out here is why, if I had a part for sale would a prospective buyer request I call him - I'm selling & ...

Are you intending on running on "dirt" roads ?

I'm running a BB RAJO with a full length cover so I cut out a rather thick piece of cork material for a cover gasket to somewhat capture the oil mess - I manually oil the rockers & shafts with straight 30wt. prior to starting and I have a thick wool/cotton pad that I keep saturated to oil while runn...

Hopefully a couple of our "Babbitt pourers" will chime in but I believe Premium Nickel was acceptable for our engines.

I concur with Dan - nothing wrong with "Cylent" fiber gears - it's the repros made for the last 40 + years that will "come from together" at the worst possible time !

How did you come across those ?

I knew the manager at Non-Ferrous Metals in Seattle - I did a considerable amount of work on his father's Runabout.

Right or left Rich ?

That's how I check mine - I use my c.c. jig that was ground as a surface plate.

Look at the "#2" post below that Tom R. posted - shows a fairly new coupe with the "hold-up" on the driver's side.

Thanks Richard - I remember it "starting with a P" !

I'll take a look Rich - I might have an "orphan".

Sounds great Donnie - what type of exhaust system you running ?

Back in the sixties, my Dad went to a warehouse auction near the Seattle waterfront to bid on a new Model T Touring similar to the photo above - no, we didn't bring it home !

Could be early Hall-Scott or I recall another auxiliary shifter - might have been a Planator.

Good suggestion Dan - we trailered the '14 down your way for the National a couple years ago but I did have the Pace serviced with new bearing components & brakes prior to the trip but I believe I'm going to do just what you suggested as we're headed to Spokane for this years National (maybe) albeit...

I have several but Stan's ALOT closer !

I'll dig one out Daniel - drop me an email to my home & I'll get you a photo.

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