MTFCA Forum

"Belly Bands" are just an inexpensive insurance policy IF one of the c.c. arms happens to come from together !

Any photos of what you need Ryan ?

Any chance of you taking your caps lock off ???

I took my "Driver's" test in 1971 in my 1930 Model A Coupe - the Examiner spent more time blowing the Aahooga horn & wolf whistle than paying attention to my driving - I believe I got a 96 or so due to backing up around a corner and being too far off the curb - told him I didn't want to ding my new ...

Here's one on our '14 Touring.

Yes, they are - 30 x 3.5.

Thanks to Walter H., I attempted to contact the original poster - Thanks Walter !

I believe it also has to do with the paper composition - I've ordered from different suppliers and some fit fine - some don't !

No Go Joe - both Touring brackets.

Thanks Donnie - my copy arrived today - great job !!! Yours is earlier than my pocket catalog as mine has my starter/generator kit and yours has the front spindle cone removal tool - all good stuff !!!

I'll check Joe - I know I have an extra Touring.

I believe that "notch" is from movement, Chris.

Someone on here was searching for the book by David Gingery providing information on building such a rig - I found my booklet finally so I would like to get it to the right person - drop me another email, please.

That's a late model 3 speed w/PTO capabilities.

I might have some Keith from when we bought out Vintage Antique Reproductions from Rudy S. - they'd be 20 + years ago repro, I believe.

I hear you, Jack !

That tread pattern is similar to old Goodyear tires.

From what I've seen on early brass twist oiler cars (my '14 included) is the oiler is on top at the rear and towards the bottom in the front so as Corey alluded to that makes oiling easier.

Yes, beaded edge is a clincher.

BTT one time or I'll demount the tires and sell the 5 rims only.

No worries - I have some of both !

It's a spindle body bushing removal tool - works like a tap - tighten it up into the bushing a whack away on the opposite end with a brass hammer or just beat it against a chunk of lead.

Point of clarity - are you seeking 23" non-demountable steel clincher felloes or 21" steel felloes ?

You are most welcome !

That's where I got mine, Larry.

I've also encountered "issues" with the repro rivet length - I'd suggest, if you haven't already, grind the repo's down to the same as your originals then try another attempt.

"any cracks found were repaired with lock and stitch and" - which means there were block cracks ? Water jacket ?

Here's what all 5 of the rims & tires look like - flash made them a bit brighter than what they really are.

Stevens Speed-Up Tools also made a puller similar to Toons.

No hubs because no wheels are included - just the 5 rims, tires & hardware.

I'll post a photo tomorrow.

I have 5 mint Hayes powdercoated demountable rims w/brand new Firestone Tires, brass stem tubes and correct nickel hardware - these are currently on our '19 Centerdoor which is soon to be sporting a new set of Buffalo wire wheels - thanks to Kevin Pharis ! I could entertain a reasonable offer BUT fi...

Ditto what Mark referred to - I'd suspect a compression or vacuum issue.

Forgot to add - I use an old rear wheel hub to press against using a steel axle shim to protect the new taper.

Here's the cage I made up for pressing gears back on.

I don't believe it's a Ford - fenders, rear wheels and third member not.

I don't have his name but he's in Arkansas, I believe - Donnie Brown knows him & he's on here - maybe he can supply it.

Actually Ed, the gas tanks are made in the U.S. - bad news is no one is reproducing '26-'27 cowl tanks !

Frank - think about it - Ford would not have produced millions of Model T's with a faulty electrical system ! I've been stepping on one of those original switches for over 40 years - haven't got shocked yet. I do use the early style switch that unscrews from the base so cleaning up the buss bar is e...

Rob - there are 2 switches currently available - one is imported, the other is a good ol' made in USA switch - I have installed dozens for folks & all were good ! I believe you have greater problems that just the switch !

Are you referring to the driven plate bolt(s) wire ?

You have to consider the lubricant used - grease, so at least that.

Quite a few used axles could benefit from a shim under the new bushing, especially the top one as the most wear in the yoke is on top from the weight of the car, lack of lubrication and road grime acting as a grinding compound !

I have a couple NOS - boxes a bit rough but mostly intact. Haven't really looked them over !

Here's where ours is mounted in the '14 Touring.

That's where the speedometer head mounts - he was asking about an accessory clock.

I have a clock in the '14, I'll try and get a photo later.

There was an obvious failure most likely the result of attempting to start the T with the spark advanced - that's what will unwind the Bendix spring and break the balance ring from the gear.

Can you not tip the starter up & towards the engine more to facilitate a smidge more clearance ?

For what years ?

I remember those little "capsules" - I thought is was Vaseline.

Geez Adam - it's in the classifieds - really ?

I have a set of original Ford rear 1 pc. brackets.

Thanks for looking for me !

No Allan - I'm seeking the one or pair of the top photo that I posted - they insert right into the Ford body iron & replaces the L iron & saddle.

Here's where those 2 pc. valves are put together and they do have a tendency to "come from together" !!!

How much "gap" we talking about Scott ?

I've installed dozens of the new repro "best quality" sleeves & I believe they're also just a smidge on the thick side myself.

I use a hose clamp to compress the sleeve to insert into the housing - pretty much stay round when they go in.

I'd be more than happy to purchase a matched set like the one above also !

I've ran into a similar situation but I had the luxury of having multiple bearings to choose from so I fit each side to each sleeve. I've also attempted to install a .497 - .498 bearing into a new hardened sleeve and it was a "no-go" ?

BTT - any luck Michael ?

The time frame for the "stepped" torque tube has been debated for some time - it has definite steps in O.D. from approx. midway forward towards the ball.

Most likely a casting identification - an "early" straight bore NH has cast throttle & choke arms & a brass button vent where the patent plate would be.

That's funny R.V. !!!

The above wheel & cast spyder might possibly original to a very "early" '19 but the spyder went to a 15" pressed steel version in '19 for a limited run before going into the standard 16" pressed steel version - I have the 15" pressed steel version on our '19 Centedoor if anyone would like to see an ...

Thanks Fella's - Joe, that bolts up entirely different - the photo above & the opposite side one I need bolt right onto Ford body irons & I believe they were factory equipment on Canadian cars - I'm wanting them on our '14 Touring just because - note they have 4 individual iron seperators Thanks for...

Any chance someone has this IDENTICLE OPPOSITE SIDE piece laying around ? I know they're were sold as accessories in the States but I believe it could also be a "Canadian" thing. (I "borrowed" the photo off the Internet) Appreciate any assistance.

You are most welcome Joe - Mike's a good guy !

John Regan might be able to identify it looking at the bottom being's he made it ?

Offset hinges - '17 & later, I believe.

Hey Joe - have you talked with Mike at Classtique about a top ?

That's interesting as that is the same pattern done on the brass magnet clamp screws.

I don't believe those are Ford parts - those year tops don't clamp to the w.s. - they utilize a strap & hook to the w.s. hinge !

He passed away some time ago.

Can't answer your question Joe but I wish Bill was still producing them !

Oh ya - thanks to Jeff S. for the fancy Sherman head - Zoom - Zoom !

I was looking for this thread the other day - Duh ! Anyway, I've had this belt drive alternator kit for years and finally got to work on my own T's - typical mechanic - last rig to get worked on ! Had some "minor modifications" to do but all in all, turned out O.K. - I'm upgrading the lighting for t...

Thanks Steve - I thought I read the thread but it seems to have went away ! Anyway, I've had this belt drive alternator kit for years and finally got to work on my own T's - typical mechanic - last rig to get worked on ! Had some "minor modifications" to do but all in all, turned out O.K. - I'm upgr...

I remove my rear axle assemblies complete and place the jack stands right up tight to the radius rods BUT I do use the stands for my F-250 !

Would someone care to assist me in finding the topic of "What have you done to your T in December" - hell if I can find it ! I'm finishing up a project on the '14.

All I found was for a 4 dip - thanks Dan !

I believe I do - I'll get back to you later.

I stand corrected Larry - I've replaced early bracket bushing with 2 as the single is not available - this CRS is getting troublesome !

I believe Les has the ticket for an "add-on" belt drive modern starter - installs without having to replace the T hogshead, etc. - I remember talking with Les a number of years ago regarding the same for a customer who wasn't able to hand start his '09 ! Could be a profitable endeavor Les !

Already spoken for - thanks MTFCA !

Already spoken for - thanks MTFCA !

Bud - do you have an aversion to changing a few parts to install an electric start ? Our '14 Touring was purchased from the family who I did just that for, as the owner was in his early 80's & had Parkinson's to boot ! I removed the engine, disassembled it and replaced the flywheel with the later st...

I do just that Mark but I turned down a brass stepped insertion tool.

There are two sizes - the larger one is for the spindle & tie rod bolts - the smaller one is for the spring perches & springs - perhaps you're attempting to install the incorrect oiler for your project ?

Spoken for & headed to Detroit - thanks MTFCA !

I'll look for the irons Mike - most of my good running boards are used for shelving in the shop !

Here's a set of correct, brown colored plug & mag. wires for '09 - '14's. $30 includes Priority Mail in the U.S. Drop me a note through here, please.

Here's a very little used New Day - brush appears new if used at all. No "S" on the face so I don't know it's origins. $45 includes Priority Mail in the U.S. - drop me a note through here, please.

Here's a NOS K.W. coilbox lock - includes 3 keys, mounting plate & screws. $75 includes Priority Mail in the U.S. Drop me a note through here, please.

Here's how I modified my oiler set-up.

Early cars used 2 bushings - later to '25 used one - '26 - '27 used a different size - what year bracket you replacing ?

Driver's or Passenger side ? And what state do you reside ?

Andre - the oil line should exit the oiler & go under the pipe and yes, I run original Ford Faithful Oiler's on all 5 of our T's - built in debris screen and with the topography here in the Pacific Northwest, a little lubrication insurance to the front of the engine is good ! Only drawback to the F....

The Winfield carburetor also has that type of "ball & spring" tensioner on them which most are stuck !

I might have some of the correct domed ones that Otis Clinton machined years ago - been a while since I've seen them !

Let us remember that "milling" & "surfacing" are normally two different operations - I wouldn't install any cylinder head without having it "kissed" on a Blanchard grinder.

Thanks for the proper terminology Scott !

That is quite an interesting feature - the "waffle" stamping of the brass screws is definitely Ford factory work - I've torn down too many T power plants to keep count & have never seen that ring on one !

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