MTFCA Forum

Thanks for the proper terminology Scott !

That is quite an interesting feature - the "waffle" stamping of the brass screws is definitely Ford factory work - I've torn down too many T power plants to keep count & have never seen that ring on one !

That & I'm a "gadget" guy !

Considering we don't have to drive our T's in mud (I don't) & adverse road conditions, the obvious purpose is for keeping it up out of the road debris and the ease of service !

They're called a timer elevator & they work good - need to do a bit of fidgeting to time it correctly so as to not short out one of the cylinders as you advance the spark rod.

Please explain what the subject line means.

I agree with you Allan - no way a set of '09 - '10 one piece spindles would sell for $80.00 !

Lang's & Snyder's sell a modern composite float material which is alcohol resistant.

No - pretty much followed the plans - it will saturate a magnet in a couple seconds & hold 4-5 lbs. - you can't hardly shake the piston off !

I had electrical assistance in building mine from the Gingery plans - I'm still looking for my book to let John use - I know it's here somewhere !!!

There's a fellow T enthusiast up in B.C. that is attempting to run one soon.

Ball bearing retainer for the valve actuation on an Akron OHV cylinder head - Zoom - Zoom !!!

Being in the "T" repair business for a good number of years, one tends to learn a few things that are beneficial to doing a good job !

I purchased a "baby" size Vise-Grip that I lock onto the flats of the lifter body and let it swing over against the valve chamber & let's me have both hands for the wrenches - helps for sure !!!

I tried "the bag" trick once - took longer to get all the crap plastic out from under the bead !!!!

I enlarged the rear shelf frame hole to 7/16" for the washer to clear and my hood shelf (1914) bolts go through both the upper & lower frame sections so no issues with those. On flat firewall cars with an electric starter installed, one needs to remove the upright firewall bracket and notch the fire...

It's not just a case of having little fingers - they need to be about 8" long to boot !

Yes Siree - glad to see they're still available and made in America !!!!

Going through the same ordeal Frank - no room to hold all the pieces together & insert a cotter pin - flippin starter's in the way unless you are a Rubber Band Man ! I'm going to try the suggestion of a small O.D. washer & fold the cotter pin around the hood holder so it will go through the frame ho...

I have & use one of them "antique" valve stem holders Larry !

Nice board - don't have that one !

What the heck is "modulimeter tested" ???????????????

I agree that the "assembly" is captive - I run Dan Mc.E's safety hubs and they don't "come from together" like Dave's photos above --- and I'm not a "machinist" Les so perhaps I misspoke regarding the press fit.

It's a "safety" hub alright although I've not seen them "come from together" like yours - the axle tube spud should be a press fit into the bearing.

I might have one I'd let go - photo above might be mine or maybe Jay's - I'll get back to you this afternoon.

Lucas 21" are imported - 21" Firestone, Goodyear, Goodrich & some others are made in the U.S.A.

Thanks Bob !

BTT - Anyone ?

Steve - most but not all 21" 's are U.S. made.

The ones with the "curved" attaching point are '26 - '27.

Thanks for looking Hank !

BTT !

Anyone happen to have a new FP 12v. Voltmeter laying around ? Have a new 6v in the box to trade or will purchase outright.

Thanks,
Steve Tomaso

1.062, I believe.

Being's the spindles have the "flats" for Timken bearings, it would be later and could be aftermarket. Is the axle Ford ?

Here's the catalog I have - kinda large for a "pocket" though !

I'd be in for one Donnie - I have the original "pocket" version (2 actually) but would like the larger format one for the shop.

I have my Gramps' '24 C-Cab he purchased new - I'll look inside the cab as it has all it's original wood & top material and since my Gramps' couldn't fit the TT in their garage, it sat outside it's entire career but he did have the forsight to cover the entire top assembly (cab & covered express) wi...

I also have a "Brown" Ford taillamp - never have removed the lens to check if it's also scripted.

FYI Jerry - that bracket became available in '17 - '15 was a bolted together 2 pc. & '16 was a riveted together 2 pc.

I'd venture to say from the advent of the electric starting system in '19 until the tin cup style came around in '24 or thereabouts.

Shorten it up to the proper length & re-solder the lug back on.

Same with the express box !

Fetch a piece of stiff, steel wire, bend a hook onto it, insert between axle shaft & cage and pull - sometimes it easier to have someone turn the engine over in gear (with the h.b. lever forward) to facilitate the bearing to roll - should pull right out. Removing the bearing sleeve is another endeav...

We Do ! This big guy cruised down our road & by my shop a while back second one this year !

I use my "marginal" running boards as shelves for a portion of my accessory collection in the shop !

These are rear fender irons for a touring.

That's the "late" model Warford with PTO capabilities - I have one in my TT.

I'd question the "original" paint & then some !

Was still sideways when I clicked on the original ?

Quite common 30 - 40 years ago when we were all a bit younger. A lot of local T Clubs would compete against each other usually at the local swap-meets - used to be a lot of fun !

It appears to be a "hard" lining that was used back in the "70's - similar to forklift brake material although it has a weave design like the newer repro Scandinavia type liming - can you poke an ice pick or similar pointed tool easily into it ?

Here's a few photos from under the truck - 1st is the cast iron "extension" that holds an additional u-joint, 2nd is the bracket & special frame clamp & 3rd is the plumber's swing joint.

Charlie - do you have the clamps ?

I have an original TT cast iron 3 speed in my Gramps' truck - I'll get some photos - without climbing under to verify, one of the running board cross braces was cut & the original sediment bulb has to be moved with a "swing joint" 1/2" pipe connection.

Same here - high speed Ruckstell w/3speed Warford - cruise pretty easy at 35mph but I do have large external brakes also.

Was addressed in the discussion above.

I believe I read somewhere that the round hole shells were on the "Improved" Ford.

Last one I sold in very good condition, I got $125.00.

I believe I'd be questioning the "fresh rebuild" back to whomever did the work. I've not seen "new" valves with the 2 dimples for the old timey valve grinders - appear to be 2 pc. ?

Harold - get a hold of Gary London - he posts on here once in a while - he manufactured a dandy auxiliary transmission hanger kit - not expensive either !

"might be BETTER hardware" - D.S.T. change sucks !

Lang's shows a replacement cable kit for a Stewart - might be hardware than that nylon piece ?

Appears to be & pretty nice condition for other than the bullet hole and the 2 other small holes - perhaps reflectors.

Value is whatever you can get for it but IMO $100 - $150.

Normal - there was just a recent discussion regarding the same subject.

No, you should not be able to remove the key when turned to either position - that's what the tumblers are there for, I believe.

Are those original Ford shoes ? There was an issue with the thickness of area where the cam rides on the repros a while back - don't recall if it was remedied.

Nice looking Runabout too !

Originally negative ground.

That's possible - I'll go pull mine out to verify - they are similar.

Sold - thanks MTFCA !

Could be for Hassler Pancake - NOT Beehive.

There "should" be 2 tangs on the handle - try to re-insert and merely turn until the lights go off OR it would be easier to remove the lighting wires off the firewall terminal.

Now that's a nice reproduction of a viable accessory Tim - everyone should have one for each T !!! Optional mounting shown below.

Nice score there, Donnie ! I have a portion of the Stevens T-185 tool for milling the axle yoke - be nice to locate or fab the rest. Although a small photo, here's my ANCO timer display with the "rotator" on the lower right on top of one of my cases - I'll take a better photo later.

Axle spoken for pending funds - thanks MTFCA !

I have the type you're looking for - 1 slightly used - good continuity - 1 new & 1 complete new kit.

Thanks for jumping on top Tom.

I'll take a look-see - might have some "era" fittings.

'09 - '10 - maybe into '11.

BTT - offers ?

This is new, never run Snyder's commutator w/new roller - powder coated - 1st $55 includes Priority Mail in the U.S. Drop me a note through here, please.

Spoken for - thanks MTFCA !

I also procure my S.S. wire through the local aircraft parts store - iron "bailing wire" I p/u at Wilco Farm Store or Tractor Supply.

Boy, that's a really crisp stamping - wish I had the stamp for that size script !

This is the "classified" section Fellas - post in the Forum if you feel the need to comment regarding a subject !

There are 2 styles currently available - sounds as though you have the "less expensive" version which are known for the issue you are dealing with - the other "more expensive" one is actually designed after the Ford original style petcock which the "spring loading" works better the way George descri...

What lining was he running - hard or Kevlar ?

BTT - offers ?

Spoken for - thanks Scott & MTFCA !

Model T con. rod nuts, early or late used a 5/8" wrench.

Rings are spoken for - thanks MTFCA !

Just finished installing 4 new Stevens bushings in this - top & bottom. Perch holes perfect. $250.00 + the ride from 98351. Drop me a note through here, please if interested.

Here's 2 sets of 6 new heavy copper manifold rings imported from N.Z., I believe - both sets $50.00 mailed in the U.S. Drop me a note through here, please.

These are repro forged shackles done up quite a number of years back - front set as shown. $75.00 includes mailing in the U.S. Drop me a note through here, please.

I believe this is NOS - no signs of nut attachment - this is for the early U-bolt front spring mount - holds the hand crank up out of the dirt & has a set of holes for a long shank padlock - see photo of same attached to our '14. $80.00 mailed in the U.S. Drop me a note through here, please.

I've always heard them referred to as "roar bowls" !

Most likely shortened on the gear end - pretty simple machining process to shorten & recut the key & keeper slots.

I have several different type - there were a number of manufacturers who produced these.

It also appears that your pedals could be bent from what would be the stock configuration - reverse should stand proud to the rear and the brake seems to be well forward of where it should be.

If you have a copy of the Service Manual, go through the steps of adjusting your clutch section, the linkage & finally the bands - this should remedy most of the issues you are experiencing.

I'll check Don - I have a lot of parts.

You might need to drill or realign a passage for the new combination rod.

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