MTFCA Forum

Thank you. Jerry's solution will work.

@Jerry Did you just bend the arms with the sockets/clamps outward? Or did our cut one side and then bend them?

If I were to slice the arm at the base, then I could bend and MIG tack weld in the new position with the top still on. This fix seems possible, but risky.

Richard

Dan Treace said on Oct 27, 2019 in the post with subject Improved car stanchions "If your upper and lower swivel windshield frames are fitting nicely to the stanchions, and those stanchions are also fitted well to the cowl, the center-to-center distance from the round post fittings on each stanchion...

Thank you. I was trying to make it much harder and more permanent.

Hi, I cannot figure out how the wire spring is supposed to fasten together. I took apart both headlights and found this spring in front of the reflector instead of behind. 0628211324.jpg This is how the assembly should look: Headlight Assembly.jpg I foolishly disconnected the trick wire joint to get...

Thank you. I hope to drive it today.

My 26 tourer has transistorized ignition and no flywheel magnets. I have just reinstalled the motor. I cannot remember if the old magneto terminal post wire was hanging exposed loose, isolated with tape or bonded to the chassis. I doubt that is was attached to the magneto post. The engine runs with ...

I have uploaded all 4 new rods. I am anxious to move this project forward.

New Photo after some crude scraping. A private message indicated that it was just a burr. From the results of my scraping, I believe that it is just a burr as much of the "crack" has been removed.

I can get the point of my exacto knife under the crack, but it does not easily lift. Perhaps, they just cut all the way through the babbitt with the X cut.

Just started to fit my rebuilt connecting rods and I am not sure if this is a Babbitt defect or not. Babbitt crack.jpg It is a 3 under rod from Langs and i was using Timesaver to fit it my 1.2223 - 1.2226 (0.0003 out of round) fat crank journal. First, I did a loose dry fit and then scraped some hig...

I now understand. My T has 3 front oil connections: 1) The internal aluminum tube. 2) The external blocked one that we have been discussing from the cover to the front. 3) and the one that I forgot about that goes from the hogshead to the front as shown in this photo. The Correct External Front Engi...

Photo of the case repair:

The shims are not magnetic and probably not brass.

Posting too many photos:
1. 3 of Rear Main Bearing
2. 2 photos of the knocking #2 rod bearing

Here is a new photo: With the generating mounting bolt remove and my finger covering the generator casting bolt hole, the air goes into the timing gear area. Note the relieved bolt that may have been intended to allow the oil to pass through. I blew out the holes with the bolt removed (no dirt came ...

Thank you all very much. It does not surprise me that there is some shabby work done on this engine. The car had some amateur chroming, that I removed and painted black. The chrome on the bumpers was too difficult to remove so I just bought stainless. I have included a new photo that shows: The rear...

Forgot to say that the motor has the internal oil tube:

I should have said Transmission cover. It seems that the connection is of no value. I should cap it off at the transmission cover, remove the connector at the front of the pan and use the hole in the pan for a bolt to this blind hole.

Richard

What do you make of this rear main bearing? It is rough, scratched and looks porous. Plastigage measures the rear at 0.0015 clearance at both the front and back end of the bearing. The rear journal on the crank measures: Front: 2.2195 Middle: 2.2195 back: 2.2220 and shows a maximum 0.0003 out of rou...

My 1926 touring has an external line from the hogshead to the front pan. It goes through a hole in the pan flange through the gasket and into a threaded hole near the front camshaft bearing. When air is blown into this hole it does not come out anywhere that I can tell. Can someone explain this oili...