MTFCA Forum

For my overhead, I prefer using studs rather than bolts. With studs I can be sure of getting full engagement with the threads in the block. Hopefully that lessens the likelihood of stripping them out. I install the studs with anti-seize to make sure I can get them out again. Not sure the length need...

No one from Washington competing.

I often use my HF 3/8 torque wrench as it's convenient. Not sure of accuracy, I tested torque values with a calibrated beam wrench at various tensions and found the HF wrench to be very accurate. As in many things Model T, 1 or 2 pounds difference from one bolt to another really isn't that big a dea...

As others have shared - Buy a car that runs! The less mechanical experience you have the more critical that is. I had lots of experience working on cars from the 50's up to new when I got my first T in the early 80's. I was lucky that an experienced T guy looked it over for me and said it was a real...

Maybe I should qualify my comment as I was dealing with stock T pistons. I don't know if your Y block pistons use a different retainer for the wrist pin.

I've done it once. Had #1 rod go bad on a tour and a kind soul loaned me a replacement. Not a lot of fun laying on your back with the light of a flashlight but definitely doable.

Ron,

Your attachment for setting the null point on the car was excellent. Heck I could even understand it. Opening the next attachment about the 3rd brush made me glad there are people who understand it so I don't have to. Thanks You for being one of those who does.

Walt

I was disappointed in several areas on the current issue but will send those comments to the Editor via email.

Ross,

Voiding mine would be fine with me. I came off a little quick with my first post on this. Should have known that you had a good plan in place.

Walt

Well that didn't work. Intended to delete my unnecessary comment.

Puget Sound Chapter has been meeting every Thursday for breakfast at a local restaurant. Ladies have their area in the room while guys have the other. Chats with folks about their projects, progress and suggestions. Two of us have been helping a member who is new to T's to get his running and stoppi...

With the hand brake vertical and a little oil in each cylinder, drag it out of the shed and onto grass or possibly scrap plywood. Plan a way to stash all the loose parts in the bed of the tow vehicle (or van if it is one). Best to strap down or secure the loose stuff in the tow vehicle rather than a...

Dan's is exactly the same concept and his bracket looks simpler. Go with his.

I cut the cross shaft off and made a bracket that bolts to the back side of the front of the transmission (where it bolts to T transmission). I added another cross shaft at the rear of the Chicago and put a link between the old and new shafts. Will try to clean things up a bit and get a photo or two...

Yes, just like Fronty. However the plug adapters for a Model A work to let you use modern plugs. You need a deep reach modern plug, I use a NGK BKR5EGP, the less expensive BKR5ES or BKR5E would likely work. Not certain why I chose the platinum version. Oh, recommended by a friend whose Porsche likes...

Any reputable insurance company should have contacted you with in a max of 48 hours and preferably same day. I would be contacting my insurance commissioner if a week had gone by with no contact from the insurer and would copy the insurance company with my complaint.

Wonderful! The Alberta folks put on a great show!

I have used metric Allen screws for years, I think ever since I hear Rick suggest it. They go in a bit snug but not enough to mess up the threads, just enough so they won't loosen on their own. A long Allen wrench makes the install easy. Nice easy solution to my mind. Of course, this is on my speeds...

Really only .070?

Do what YOU want to do to keep it running and happy. Lots of choices from simple to complex (and potentially expensive). Early on when I was new to Model T's I struggled with stock coils and timers and got frustrated. I just wanted to be able to drive my car (25 touring). After getting stuck on a to...

I have added front brakes to my speedster and love them. Following the example of several others, I have incorporated brakes from a Nash Metropolitan. the 8" drums and related backing plates are obvious to Model T folks but easily missed or ignored by folks not very familiar with the Model T. Recogn...

Wayne - Sorry your club went through it's troubles. Can happen to the best of them for many reasons. I wish it success but my presence or absence would make little if any difference in that regard. On a bit with the thread drift, the Michigan 3 day tour was almost on my list for this year but didn't...

I don’t know if I’m speaking for others or not but – Considered “Not a real speedster driver”, I’m not sure if I or my speedster are considered not real or if it’s the package. In any case no thanks for the moniker. Over the past 30 years on the road with my speedster I have occasionally considered ...

Mostly clean up and general check and prep work. Then a tour with the T club, about 80 miles with the group but 185 total counting driving to meet them and returning home. Cold (38) in the morning but bright and sunny and upper 60's by the time I got home. Hats, coats, gloves and sun glasses came in...

Followed a friend and his TT at a bit over 50 mph. High speed gears in a TT Ruckstell and an old style Warford. Z head, stipe cam, modern carb. It slowed on hills of course but surprised a bunch of folks on level ground.

No pump, circulator or thermostat - Modern core in a high radiator keeps my Fronty cool. Mine isn't the hottest Fronty out there but the T head, A crank, domed pistons, Stipe cam and Weber carb provide all the performance I want or need. If it makes you feel good run the pump.

That looks like a beautiful car that definitely belongs in this club. I don't hear you pretending that it is something completely original but rather as a stunning and drivable restoration in the spirit of a 1911 T. Most of us would be proud to own such a car. Some prefer authentic patina, good for ...

I use a 6 by 12 single axle trailer since 1989. It has electric brakes (you didn't ask that but I'm a believer in them). Light enough that I can manage it on my own. I live near Seattle and tow almost anywhere. It's been as far East as Tennessee, South as Naches, MS and Arizona, and North as Calgary...

TrueFire support is lost and gone forever. If one fails, there are a few people around who generally understand them and might be able to answer questions. No, I'm not one of those. I've used stock coils off and on since 1984, only briefly had good use from them and that included time with professio...

I rather expected on of the folks running RAJO heads would have replied but . . . I had issues with my Fronty finding a good spark plug. Eventually settled on using a spark plug adapter for a Model A (18 mm) that lets me run modern 14 mm plugs. I've tried various plugs but am happiest with NGK BKR5E...

I know some of you have been there but for anyone who hasn't the NWVS Photo Gallery is an easy way to spend time.

https://www.nwvs.org/members-speedster-gallery/

My favorite car - used, run hard and put away wet but I love it. It has evolved a lot and been a ton of fun over the last 30 years.

Power (speed) costs money. How fast do you wan to go.

a few hundred for a head, cam and carb.

Several thousand + if you want to beat the Wild Cherry on the hill climb.

Can't advise without some parameters for what you want.

Harbor Freight magnetic base and dial indicator for about $30, less on sale or with a coupon. Works fine for me. I don't need measurements below .001 and you probably don't either for most tasks.

Google will pop up other options in a pretty similar price range.

I don't recall hearing of Mt Diablo until on the Ryan Ramble 2 years ago. I took my speedster up churning along in the real steep part in underdrive on my aux trans until a T in front of me went to low pedal and under in the Ruckstell. He made it fine in that gearing and I did as well but needed to ...

I can't find my copy at the moment but the book "The Model T Ford in Speed & Sport" had discussion and plans for building a T speedster including those with fabric coverings. Some vendors have them and they can be found online. The plans were quite small and poor reproductions making them nice for c...

16 registered to participate. Host site / starting point is Eagle Creek Lavender Farm on Starr Rd.
Social and mini tour on Saturday, 200 miler on Sunday.

I use a Garmin 52 and am very pleased. Sure there are several features you won't use (at first anyway) but it's a stable easy to use GPS. You don't need to enter route info if you don't want to. Just go to Display Map and in addition to the map you will see your speed (and the speed limit in urban a...

Busy month so far. Frame cracked between engine side mount and body mounting bracket on my speedster on an 800 mile tour in late June. Body here, engine there, front and rear axle assemblies over there along with a bunch of misc. parts. Finished reassembly and fired it up last Friday morning (Aug 4t...

Stock disks in a 26/27 transmission with good clutch engagement surfaces and a 110 lb spring. Works fine. Tried a WATTs once maybe 10 years ago, bad news in my application, possibly great elsewhere.

For an essentially stock T, a Ruckstell is the best bet. 20 HP doesn't need and overdrive and Ruckstell underdrive is a better match than Warford underdrive. Ruckstell is also easier to shift into underdrive (gracefully) than a Warford.

I have a Chicago aux tranny in my speedster, same issues as shifting a Warford. I added a foot throttle and life became much easier and safer. Steer and throttle with left hand while shifting with the right was not an easy trick for me. Brakes at the wheels are a must as missed shifts can and do hap...

If anyone missed it my comment about 12 volts and an alternator was a bit of a snide remark based on comments I've seen from some (mainly one) dedicated purists. I've owned and truly enjoyed 2 T's that were as Henry intended other than slightly enhanced brakes and brake lights. They were great but w...

I've never been a fan of exhaust manifold heaters wanting to blow fumes into the interior of the car. Smell bad and potentially dangerous if the exhaust leaks. They can help warm things up though if you want the vintage experience. I have pulled the top floorboard in my speedster and it does help th...

Heated seats are doable. That assumes of course that you have a battery and charging system compatible with the heating elements you want to use. Probably need to use 12 volt units as I doubt if there are good 6 volt options. I rode in a T speedster last week that had heated seats. Pretty nice on a ...

'56 and earlier Fords are 6 volt, pick your favorite auto parts supplier. The '57 Ford went to 12 volt and added the second small lug which would normally not be used on a T.
No clue how long the tractors stuck with 6 volt.

Looks like Champ is living a pretty fine Dog's Life. A full time job to hang around with Jim and his friends, take rides in a neat old car and eat treats. He makes a fine mascot and I'm betting a great companion.

Sold to Scott

A couple years ago I bought a complete HP5A as shown in photos. Upon taking it apart I found damage at the bottom of the float bowl where the casting was broken. A repair was attempted with a poor job of brazing the parts by a prior owner. Needless to say, I was disappointed. This should be repairab...

Certainly sounds like fuel starvation. When I ran one like that on my speedster years ago I added a filter and fuel pump. You might want to disconnect the line at the carburetor to check fuel flow. Likewise check for a filter in the system. The head should have heavy felt pads under the covers resti...

If I was building a flathead engine it would have standard pistons and a Prus head. I know of several near me that are real happy.

My query came from basic curiosity. Years ago I added a Fronty T head to my speedster, when using flat top pistons simply changing the head was a noted improvement. When the crank broke (no great surprise) I went with a shortened A crank (1/4" more stroke) and domed pistons. That combination really ...

I really liked my stock 25ish touring car because of it's appearance, history and the smiles it brought. I enjoyed driving it for the open air experience as well as slowing to smell the scenery as well as see it. I also really enjoyed the limitations in power and handling as they brought to mind the...

I've been looking, without success, for the compression boost from the domed pistons offered by the vendors. From stock 4 to 1 to ???

Anyone know or have a feel for it?
Walt

One time with my 25 touring. It was actually a bit tricky because my Rocky Mtn brakes didn't want to hold as I backed down to a driveway to turn around. I learned from the experience - once was enough.

The HP5A is a great carb if you can find a good one that's jetted right and you have some spare change. I ran one for quite a few years but never got it quite right on the jets. I committed heresy and went with a modern carb that runs better. Sold the Zenith to a fellow on the East coast. I've got m...

It's a Holley

: Holley.jpg (64.64 KiB) Viewed 1362 times

Likely common but does anyone recognize it?

What a relatively stock T needs for touring is an intermediate gear in most of the country. An auxiliary transmission is great as an overdrive or parade speed underdrive but does nothing for the big gap between T low and T high. Those who live in the flatland areas may find an overdrive handy, espec...

Condition matters most but if you want a stronger crank and engine, bite the bullet and get a new Scat crank. More money for sure but you will be spending a fair bit any way you go.

Bill,

Only if you make one. Get a sheet of cork and carve away. Mine is 1/4" thick, don't recall where I got it but the Google is my friend when I'm not certain where to look.

I cut mine from cork, works fine. I use sealer between head and gasket but leave the top clean so I can easily remove the cover for oiling. The edge of the cover is "as cast" and only slightly smoothed so excess oil can seep a little bit if you put too much oil on the felt but easy to wipe off and i...

Lubrication was like that for most if not all of the overheads built for a T. The felt pad has worked fine for me on both a 4 valve Rajo and a Fronty. It is nice to have a valve cover for those of us who mainly use them for touring. The early racers may not have been as concerned about keeping out t...

For the occasional putt putt for ice cream or a parade, it will probably provide good service. If you wanted to do significant touring, I would pass on it. My cars get 2,000+ miles a year and if that gear was mine, I would put it in the pitch it bucket. Chaffins provided a gear that should suit your...

I totally agree for those who primarily use the site as a marketing venue. At the same time I would hate to see it be a member only site limiting access for those new to the hobby and those just seeking or offering advice.

I can relate 24 hrs and 1,656 for me but I would like to attend at least once. I will have to wrap some other touring into the trip. Have been to the museum about 13 or 14 years ago and it is defenitly worth a visit but it would be the speedsters that would be the real draw. I'll need to think about...

I could be very tempted. Some primitive roads would be nice if they could be worked in. I've toured Colorado and Northern California several times. Speedster with Fronty, Chicago and 4 wheel brakes.

I replaced the #1 rod in the car in a motel parking lot. Not fun and don't let the bottom ring come out of the cylinder but it can be done. Do be careful tightening the wrist pin bolt.

I almost always work by myself with a fixed hook in my garage ceiling rather than a portable hoist. I've done it both ways and If both are out, the engine goes in first and then I slide the rear axle in. Working by myself it's far easier to align the front of the rear axle than to jostle the engine ...

Likely time to add an external oil line. I lost two rod bearings on a tour years ago due to a clogged oil line that I neglected to clean after the first rod went bad. Upon return home I did a full refresh - pistons, bearings, valves, cam and lifters as well as adding an external oil line. The car wa...

I used the stock brakes on my 25 touring for a couple years when I lived on the outskirts of Indianapolis. Flat country with little traffic where I was. All was good. Then I moved to the Seattle metropolitan area. Hills and traffic abound and then the rain. I added Rocky Mountain brakes and learned ...

I made up a few and still have a couple on the shelf. $30 wil get one to your door if you send me your address.

wberdan (normal symbol) comcast.net

The set my friend has are like your second photo here that Mike Robison mentioned in the link you referenced. Any wild gueses what they might be worth?

The ones in your first photo do look like they have an abundance of wear points. Real cute for a parade but . . .

A friend has a set of "spring wheels" where the "spokes" are curved springs. Are these just a novelty or actually a fairly decent idea? They mount on wood wheel hubs and take 23" demountable rims. I have no personal interest in them but he is in a position where the wheels would be available if ther...

Black era touring car. Looks like a proper T, has good space for 4 or two with their stuff, not so fancy as to be concerned about a nick or a little dirt. Fun car all the way around. Loved my 23/25 bitsy touring car. Speedster is more fun in many ways but for an all around T, a touring fills the bil...

A few years ago I purchased my first Model A. It was freshyly painted and had a Cartouche interior kit that was mostly in boxes. My wife and I finished the installation and it was OK. I would have asked more questions and likely paid more for a better kit had it not come with the car but I intended ...

When you start out expecting to be disappointed you almost certainly will be. You would be better served by simply avoiding them. By the way, do you have a better idea or do you just get a thrill from complaining.

Noel, Was the exhaust the only change when you noticed the loss of low end torque? Or was the loss potentially related to a combination of changes. No criticism, just curious. I try to limit the number of changes at one time to help sort out what causes the change. Of course I don't always follow th...

A stock engine in a sedan with 3 to 1 gears is going to be a dog on hills if you don't also have a Ruckstell.

I often drive a few hundred or more miles on my own so I try to be prepared. a few quarts of oil, gallon of water and a fair complement of hand tools and a 3/8 drive socket set. A set of points, condenser, spare spark plug, fuses, voltmeter, a little electrical wire and mechanics wire, Ultra-Black, ...

Nash Metropolitan drums are the right size and with a bit of work on a lathe on the inner face and re drilling the bolt holes they work fine. They are also reproduced and not terribly expensive at $40 or $45 each).

Steve is absolutely correct that the inclusion of an auxiliary transmission or Ruckstell should make brakes at the wheels a necessity. BTW, living in Western Washington, I'd never own a car that I couldn't drive in the rain. Not that I like to, just that rain happens. I highly favor green over tan.

Best is relative Most effective and easiest to modulate would be disk brakes but there is the obvious downside if you are concerned about authenticity or appearance. I would seriously consider them for my car if I didn't already have a good option in place. Rocky Mountain brakes as produced in the l...

I've run my speedster since '94 with spools but no magnets or mag ring and never suffered a lack of oil to the transmission or timing gear. Plenty flying around to take care of things. I did add an external oil line to help feed the mains and rods until I switched to an A crank and added a pump to m...

I run pressure to my mains and splash for the rods on a shortened A crank. Many many miles and smiles. I have two running buddies with shortened A cranks that are splash to mains as well as rods with no problems. The three of us run the Egge pistons on stock A rods. Sadly those pistons are no longer...

Steve is right, any good running T will do just fine with a good clean radiator no pump required. My 25 stock touring had a flat tube, always ran cool, the stock (with Z head) 26 never overheated with a clean round tube radiator, and my Fronty speedster is happy with a flat tube style. No pumps, all...

Steve - and your genes.

Lucas black 21 x 4.40/4.50 are or at least were in stock last week. Ordered through Lang's at the web site cost and they were drop shipped to me arriving late last week.

As this seems to be primarily an ignition problem, I would do the following: Bring the coils inside to dry them out. Clean and dry as much of the coil box as practical. I would also remove the timer - inspect and clean it, lubricate if it's one that needs that. Pull the plugs and clean or replace th...

Side request - does anyone happen to have a spare input shaft for a Chicago? I really like the transmission but the square part of the shaft the goes into the 4th main is beat up giving excess lash in the driveline.

Can you tell me the make of this speedster?

I cut a hole in the floor under my seat and hang a regular 12 volt car battery there ahead of the stock location. The fuel tank is moved behind my seat. The battery is easy to access if it needs service and the cutoff switch is on the front edge of the seat base so I can easily reach it.

My speedster came to me as an '18 chassis with an unloved plywood pickup body, a brass radiator and repro '14 fenders back in the early '90s. The engine, fenders, running boars, brackets and wood wheels moved to another car and while I used the brass radiator for several years it now lives on anothe...

My 60's vintage gauge has the rubber nipple to fit that era plugs. I took an old Champion spark plug apart, scrapped the porcelain and put the collar back in it. Screw the plug in the head and then use my original gauge and it works just fine.

Not a Mercury but don't know which of many others it might be. Would need a better side or rear view to tell. Got any of those handy?

Thank You for all you have done for the hobby Bob.

Best wishes to you and yours.

Kind of depends on how much you drive, how bad it leaks and how thick the pad. I've got a gasket so mine leaks but not bad on my Fronty. It's a 5/8 pad (Thanks Ron Kipling) and gets oiled at the start of the season and about every 1,000 miles after that unless I get in the mood sooner. Everything al...

I love those photos Steve & Burger. My outings were split between my T speedster and my A. With fresh babbitt in the speedster engine I put on about 200 miles on short outings just to get things settled. Feeling good, I did a 450 mile loop of the North Cascades Hwy 9 to Sedro Woolley then Hwy 20 to ...

A fundamentally stock Model T gains little from the Warford overdrive gear. A well built and tuned Model T with stock rear gears should be able to run 45 to 50 on a flat road without a problem. That doesn't mean that would be safe or prudent - you still have modest (at best) brakes, potentially twit...

Error in my post above, I use a Fronty "T" head. It's the lower compression version thus the addition of domed pistons. Measured compression is 98 to 100 PSI. The performance is all I need, really pleased with that engine mated to a Chicago transmission and 4 to 1 rear gears.

Real world - I run A "T" head on my speedster, A crank with domed pistons, Stipe 280 Cam and a Zenith HP5A carb that I replaced with a Weber a few years ago. I have a high radiator that has a modern recore from probably 15 years ago. No pump and I've never had overheating issues. If anything, it run...

I use Ultra Black - good silicon sealer and longer open time than Right Stuff. Ultra Black fits my pace of working, especially for the hogs head where it's not an "instant on" process in my world.

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