MTFCA Forum

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Thanks Dan for the information and photo's, I will keep looking as I believe that is the way to go with regard to aligning the camshaft properly. If anyone out there has one that they want to part with contact me. Thanks Again everyone!!

WTB: I am interested in buying a camshaft rear bearing reamer bar if anyone has one for sale. Thanks everyone for your input, John

I'm not sure, I guess that I should do some more research? I have seen Mike Bender use one on his engine rebuilds as well as others in the past. My engine requires that a new bearing be installed.

Thanks for the photo's and information! To my knowledge there are not any model t ford clubs in Utah so I joined the MTFCA so that I have some information flow. Possibly I can find a machine shop in the area that would consider making one, most shops I have found do not have the time or interest in ...

WTB: Or (Borrow One). Camshaft rear bearing reamer bar that is put through the camshaft journals to align bore the rear bearing. Just trying to rebuild my T engine the proper way. I don't have a lathe to make one, any help would be appreciated!
Thanks, John

Dan, I would like one set of 3. John Van Cott

Sent an email by the forum. Thanks, John

Dan, Randall and Steve, Thanks for you advice!!

Thanks Mark!

Steve, my block is early, (9-29-15).

Wanted: Camshaft, new or used , or acceptable core for a regrind.

Jeff, Sent you an email, Thanks John

Terry, I would like to purchase the 09-14 pedal. Thanks,John

Rodger, I will take a matched pair of 1914 touring brackets. Thanks, John
PM Sent

Steve, Checking to see if you received my payment for the early switch. John Van Cott

Steve, I would like the early one with ford logo shown in photo 2 on top of screw driver.
Thanks, John

Rich, I am interested. Asking price please?
Thanks,
John

I have three copper head gaskets that were used once on an engine that was never started and they were removed. They are all in excellent condition, never blown out, etc. Can or should they be reused?? I don't need any problems with my re-build. Thanks, John

I found that the water jacket had rusted through into the head bolt hole and water found it's way to number one cylinder. Lucky me the water also found its way into the intake and down into the rebuilt carburetor. So I am looking at three options, 1) sleeve the head bolt holes with stainless tubing,...

Just a very slight side to side movement, but not all have it. Mostly tight but one or two have very slight movement.

I have a very nice early block with original standard lifters. I have a new set of adjustable lifters that are also marked std. How much clearance should I have using the new lifters? Or would it be best to go to the next size using the proper reamer? Thanks, John