MTFCA Forum

Should one put a washer BETWEEN the bottom (forward) hole of the rear bracket and the frame to make up for the thickness of the fender? The top (rear) hole goes thru the bracket and the fender. Or is the thickness of the fender so negligible that the bracket will just bend enough to pull it up again...

What is the size and type of these bolts that hold the 26-27 pickup bed to the frame? I’m thinking hex head and fine thread, but size and length? I know they have to pass all the way through the frame and the wood blocks up in the frame…. Thanks!

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Dagnabbit! I completely forgot about this! Don’t have a running T this year but was going to head out and try to catch a few friends at the hotels….oh well…

Perfect! But I fear my corner top piece is coming a little too far forward of the top iron. This’ll be one of those the next time you do it it’ll be easier and hopefully look better moments!

Just finishing up the top installation and was wondering if anyone had a picture of how the hide em welt finishes up with the top right at the cab bucket armrest? I know it terminates with a buckle tip. Here’s a couple pictures of where my installation sits leading up to that spot before final faste...

Thank you!

Quick question: Should the top padding inside the cover over the irons extend all the way OVER the back top iron or just up to it? Seems like running it over the bow would make a couple lumpy spots that would make putting the welt over that seam even more difficult and less flat over that bow. And I...

Dunno, but I’m on my way to the Summer Restoration Institute there for a class this week!

Thanks Dan! That confirms what I was thinking! You continue to be a valuable resource here on the forum. But need to watch where you’re driving that Touring, them holes in the doors are obviously the result of some road rage incidents

!

Anyone put one of these on lately? I’ve got an email out to Mike at Classtique but his printed out directions are pretty basic as far as pictures/illustrations. Trying to figure out where to locate the back straps and seems like it would be easier to mock the back window up first, centered, and dete...

Just saw this! Great collection and explanation of my brackets, but they’ve been heated, and bent to fit now! Frankencar has its problems with apparently other years parts! But we soldier on……

That’s what I suspected, but they did a good job of “finishing” the cut down/bent portion to fit their application…..it looks factory produced!

So after figuring out how long my front top iron is supposed to be and fabricating one, the how long the straight wood pieces are between the irons, now I’m trying to fit things together up top and come to the windshield brackets that came with my swap meet (incomplete) top irons so many moons ago I...

I reckon my irons/wood are going to be held by #8 or so round head machine screws with nuts, appropriately covered. I can’t see me alone wrangling these things on top of my anvil/vise trying to peen over rivets, but we’ll see!

I add this to this thread…..when I received my top wood from Snyder’s they are labeled like the picture indicates, assuming FMB means front, middle, back; they think the back bow is the long one. I’ve still found more information/verification that the front bow is the longest, so I’m taking Snyder’s...

Sorry about the year omission, but I figured the little metal rolled armrest piece by the door was pretty specific… Thanks for that first picture Dan!

When finishing out/fastening the seat side panels, do you chamfer down the tack strip to meet the body panel armrest plane? Then slide the extra material over the tack strip and between the metal armrest side?

David….sent you a message…lemme know if ya got it.

Still in NM enjoying some cooler weather, be back Tuesday will post a pict or two….

I’m doing this same thing. I’ve found some “other” top irons and fabricated a set by shortening the ones I found and welding them back together. The irons I found were longer back ones that had the hole thru the ends to mount on the side of the tub with straight ends. I shortened them to the dimensi...

Thanks Dan! I found that same picture in my searches, but for some reason I thought it was for a touring with 4 bows and wasn’t sure it would cross over to roadsters, although the cowl and such are the same! Now to hear from Lang’s bout their bow lengths as I’ve posted the question to them. Thanks a...

I really thought there’d be more improved roadsters out there to measure this…..

My windshield top irons are homemade, fabricated from other year top irons that I could find and made with the dimension help from this photo…

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Anyone bought these straight pieces from Lang’s lately? Can you relate how long they are and possibly how long the dimensions are supposed to be? I’ve researched it pretty hard and the consensus seems to be 36.5” front iron and 35.5” for the back pair (that’s length between iron, with an extra ~2.5”...

Dave,
When you’re giving your top bow lengths in this post, are the measurements between the top iron metal bracket ends? Found this and figured this was a starting point. Does EVERYONE pretty much agree with the bow length numbers in the picture??

I believe I’ve looked at that, referring to the burlap first layer! I think Classtique mentions that as well….in order for the batting to not fall down into the springs.
Thanks!

Yup, I saw that, so I was at least trying to keep the corners level with the tub…thanks!

Getting back after the roadster and mocking up the seat back and hip panels from Classtique. Is there a certain/preferred height, either above/even/below the top of the back of the seat bucket where the backrest should hang? Also, should there be some added padding to the hip panel armrest top? IMG_...

Anyone know or tried to see if Rootlieb will sell just the louvered hood sides for a 26-7 T? The sides I’ve got are so hammered up at the louvers they look pretty bad, and to try to hammer out each one individually out straight seems like a task. I’ve contacted them to no avail yet and just wondered...

Looking back at this thread and wondered the size/type bolt that goes through the body frame, through the wood blocks, and through the spring perch horns?

Great video!
I read somewhere that you need three things for a productive discussion…
Tolerance
Reason
Debate

Seems these days we never even get 2…

I concur, no crank with switch on, no starter turn….free start!

Car has been sold.

Rajo23 wrote: ↑
Mon Aug 07, 2023 3:16 pm
If you would like to sell your extra trunk floor, I think I would like to buy it.
Contact me through my email to discuss this further:
EmailPic.jpg
Thanks so much!!

Email sent…

Take another look!

Then there’s this discussion, and I’d forgotten I’d asked the same question about metal floors!

https://www.mtfca.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=2274

If you would like to sell your extra trunk floor, I think I would like to buy it. Contact me through my email to discuss this further: EmailPic.jpg Thanks so much!! Is this for me and the flat floor pictured? I’d hate to think what shipping would be on a piece this big in order to get it somewhere ...

So ya reckon Henry saved a buck by not putting them in at assembly like it was going to be a roadster and didn’t just slap beds on completed roadster frames? I’ve got a spring hump for this floor. I guess all those folks who had roadsters and converted them in the late 20’s took out their floors? Se...

Converting a 26-27 roadster over to a pickup. I got a bunch of free Howells sheet metal panels early on in the restoration and have used most of them up patch paneling and such, but I noticed the other day I still have the trunk floor sitting out in the storage shed. Is there some advantage/disadvan...

One interested party so far, not even an offer yet, a little head scratching. If you don’t have the VF issue with its story, please contact me for a copy.

Priced to go at $22,500…..

Here’s the original wheels that go with the car if one wants the Universals off.

Car/roadster body….So where would one find info about these body to frame bolt sizes?

What would the bolts that hold the cab to the frame crossmember through the body blocks be called/identified as, as well as the rear ones that go thru those body blocks?

Not even an offer. I guess not that many folks have the collection of Vintage Ford magazines to be able to look at the historical pieces that accompany this car. If so, email me and I’ll send picts some of the amazing documents or the article/story that describe the “building” of this car. Either th...

Sarikatime wrote: ↑
Tue Mar 21, 2023 12:27 pm
I like the car and would be happy to own it but how do you get rid of all the mold that is all over the interior and who knows how much more underneath that you cannot see.

Bring it Arizona! A couple weeks out there in 107°/5% humidity and voilà…mold gone!

A couple folks have asked what that canister is on the firewall, it’s a Stewart Warner vacuum powered fuel pump. Works great and is a great place to “prime” the car after a storage period. And I’ve got spares for it that go with the car.

Thanks! You/I might be in the minority on the color, most T’ers have not been too enthused about it. I just hope someone who’ll drive/tour it has some interest in it!

It’s been a great touring car. Several T parties, a few national tours, a speedster reunion, the Canyonlands and the Centennial. It may have overheated a bit in Utah and San Angelo, but we never rode the trouble truck! Actually still gets just as many or more compression starts as crank starts.

More pictures

This is it, “An Assembled Cloverleaf” touring car as featured in Vintage Ford 25-4-10. Amazing provenance for a 105 year old car that runs and tours great. Kevlar bands, starter, Ruckstell rear end with Stoltz safety hubs/bearings, Universal wire wheels. I have all the original parts (wood wheels, e...

TRDxB2 wrote: ↑
Mon May 29, 2023 1:15 pm
What is this a picture of anyway?

A blow up of the back end of this…..

Here’s the back of the body frame and the top of the rear springs. Ignore the square head placeholder in there just to index things together. I have to stick a pickup bed on top of this as well, what size are these bolts? 7/16”? 3/8”? Happy Memorial Day, God Bless our troops and our country, enjoy t...

Yup….that’s how I know it’s backordered…just seeing if these are recurring or long missing parts from suppliers…

Am I spinning my wheels trying to find a carb adjusting rod and manifold gaskets (the glands and copper rings)? Or have folks recently got these items and I just have to wait….they’ve been backordered at suppliers…and my experience with backorders is that they can be months…..

Shouldn’t the two bolts where the fender attaches to the frame be one hex head bolt thru the frame and bracket and one carriage head type bolt that goes thru the wing on the frame, the bracket and the fender? Lang’s shows all hex head bolts….

Found this thread after trying several front fender searches…..what size are these fender bracket/frame bolts?? 3/8”??

Thanks!

Recently found a nice cowl tank and when taking apart the sediment bowl found these internal parts. The screen is just rolled up and inside the slotted housing and the tapered “cap” isn’t soldered on to the screen housing or the whole thing fastened to the bottom drain screw. It seems to go up into ...

Thanks Dan! Off to Lang’s!

Wow, just now putting my gas tank in the dash and happened to see this! THANKS! I’ll put this on first!

I’ll revive this excellent thread (the diagram is fantastic) to ask whether the 2 long skinny firewall pads go on as well as the one big cardboard pad and whether they go against the tank or against the firewall? I reckon if they went on the tank side they would also hold the cardboard pad against i...

When you get to seats, Classtique upholstery has some good videos…

Oops! This is how they came off of Frankencar, easy enuff, I’ll swap that out! I reckon I thought it looked right because the springs went right into the cups! Thanks!

How the heck did you guys get that outlet unscrewed, looking at the “square” nut, it mustn have been easy…I’ve been staring at one for years trying to figure it out!

While he’s getting into this, I’ll ask a similar question. Does this black “spacer/divider” stay in place anywhere or supposed to end up somewhere along the length of the shaft? I reckon left to it’s own it’d slide down to the carb lever anyway…

26-27…..Frankencar here had a different one, but the previous owners must’ve used smaller bolts to make it fit cuz the holes in the frame didn’t quite match up, the other one had the protrusion for the felt washer on the top end. This one fits correctly, at least frame hole wise….I’ll have to ream a...

Quick question, this steering bracket should only have one bushing in it….on the opposite side of this shaft opening….right? And this is just a test fit, don’t give me grief about color/finish!

Gotcha….thanks!

Block E!?

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Little block screwed into the bottom of the cowl? At the door pillar? I’m putting one together this month…..

Wait….the pins are where the pins are gonna be on the end of the steering shaft, they’re not spaced differently on the steering shafts? You just have to make sure you use the pins, gears and pinion that come as a set together….AND they’ll go/supposed to go in any slotted gear case with 36 teeth in t...

[/quote] You didnt mention the 5-1 steering shaft. ALL components must be changed. The main steering shaft 3 pin locations are different also. Look @ the service manual warning. [/quote] What would be the major difference in steering columns? I have 2 to experiment with along with 2 slotted gear cas...

Scott_Conger wrote: ↑
Mon Sep 05, 2022 5:02 pm
Rob

thus my warning, earlier that isn't always the easy or straightforward fix that some would have you believe...as you are now finding out

Ugh, this hobby is killing me….as is trying to save this rusty Frankencar!

If you change over to 5-1 gears with new pins, gears and drive pinion…. please publish HOW you get all that back into the case and turning….I’ve been working on this project for 2 days now with no joy getting it all back in the gear case!!!

Howdy all, I’m fabricating the “third member” top iron (the one that attaches to the windshield) for my 26 RPU and have acquired some older top irons that I’ve bead blasted and will start hacking on to make these two pieces. I’m going by the measurements of the photo here showing these irons to be 2...

Would it be possible to cobble the one piece “third irons” that lock into the hinged two piece irons with some earlier year irons?

I’ll chip in here as well, as I’m basically at this spot, although I’m looking for top irons!

Came in the kit, figured it would help tack the foot panel in there up top….oh well….thanks! This is the problem of owning an 18 while trying to put together a 6-7….no examples!

26 roadster, side of cowl wood….There’s no holes top or bottom to put a screw through….just go all the way through the wood into the bracket? Super glue?

Sorry if the picture is sideways!

Front and middle bolts-as in front-under/in the cowl area and middle-directly in front of the seat pan in the crossmember? I reckon I might have to run over to the T Party at the end of the month and snap a few picts over/under/around a few 26-27 roadsters to get this in my head correctly. Such is t...

I’m at basically the same point with re-assembly….looking at this thread I’m assuming I should de-mount my cab and cowl and start with splash aprons and fenders??? Mine is a 26-27 roadster pickup and I was wondering what the re assembly order would be after paint work…?? I’ll keep searching threads ...

TFan wrote: ↑
Mon Sep 14, 2020 3:18 pm
Rob, check this one out if you like RED. From the Redster subject on this forum. JIm

RRRed.jpg

Woohoo! Man, that’s a head turner! The white example above does look a little wacky, the examples I saw were red and a dark grey...

Are fender skirts and fenders ALWAYS black? Saw a couple at a old car tour a couple weeks ago and wondered how many might be out there. I KNOW that originality precludes this question with many, but I was intrigued by an all red one, unfortunately I completely blanked on getting a picture....Anyone ...

Thanks to all, got things more evened up and aligned today. As an aside and a possible tip, I cut some conduit to use as a spacer to hold the pedals up solid against the cams. Made it a little easier to heat and bend the pedals to their final resting place.

I have done the O ring reaming, but purchased new pedal cams. Was going to try to maybe build up the pedal cams to eliminate slop, but reticent to try to machine/grind down the two surfaces to keep them evenly contacting the hogshead cams.....
Thanks!

That’s a great picture. I’m assuming when you say welding up pedal supports, you are welding/building up the 2 cam surfaces and not actually welding the cams to the hogshead!?

Yup, quite familiar with Mike and his great videos....

Setting up the pedals on my 27 hogshead with new cams and looking at pedal alignment. Have Rocky brakes with a homemade pedal (crafted looking at an original, using a wide pedal head). SO, I know I can heat and bend pedals where I want them, but this is bending against the main spine of the pedals. ...

So are the short slotted ones standard before 26? It does look like they would be a bear to safety wire depending on where the holes ended up...but then again, not sitting up proud of the drum might be a plus if a band gave out or slipped over?

Thanks! I guess us Americans just didn’t recognize the slotted ones!

Finishing up a tranny and came across two different bolts to hold the top plate (with the clutch fingers, above the clutch push ring) to the brake drum. I just assumed the longer hex head ones were right, but came across a labeled plastic bag (yes, my handwriting!)...with these slotted bolts with sa...

While this is fresh in folk’s minds, just pulled my steering shaft and noticed that there is NO pin protruding below the shaft that would go into the gear case detent. Going to put 5:1 gears in anyway, but do the replacement items from vendors have one pin that goes all the way thru? And it’s the on...

?? Slipping down between things? I reckon my problem is not being explained good enuff.....can one use this part on a 26-27 tranny and still expect it to hold up with the 2 other .042 washers?
https://www.modeltford.com/item/3320BW.aspx

Nothing has worked yet, still have only about .007 thrust/spacer clearance between the brake drum inner face and the clutch pack drum. Is it OK to substitute a .025 spacer under the clutch drum to pick up .017 or should I just find a machine shop to mill .010 or so off?

Are we mixing up spacers/thrust washers on the main shaft with bushings? But I’ll check that bushing as well as its position in relation to the thrust surface...

Hmm, gonna have to wrap my head around that, but I’m sitting in my easy chair and not staring at the bolted up tranny and seeing what happens when I do that...it does take out the wait for parts by mail, and it’s only 4 bolts to take off.....but it does necessitate the engine lift harness....

Just slapped the 26-27 tranny together but the thrust space between the clutch disc “basket” and brake drum is only .005 or so with the three .042 spacers, is it OK to get one of the older .025 washer from the parts folks to pick up that extra .017 or so thrust space?

WayneJ wrote: ↑
Mon Apr 20, 2020 11:09 am
DSC059182.jpg

Makes you wonder what is in these sacks?

Yikes, they sitting on the windshield top iron??!!!!

Just looking at it yesterday....
I believe a 1/4 X 28 screw with the head cut off and a slot cut in it will work....

So in Ron’s drawing below, C= some value between .025-.040? Just pick one?

LOL, great write up, and I HAD researched and read it when I sent out my plea for the tool (which in the end you recommend to use :D ). But I was close to doing a lot of things I have read about here. My favorite part is the tool was only a 60 mile round trip for you to get, heck, it’s a 40 mile rou...

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