MTFCA Forum

I just purchased the aluminum split crankshaft pulley that has the Allen screw to tighten it on the shaft. I decided to reuse my old pin with the cotter hole in it instead of the roll pin that came with the pulley. However, once I hammered the pin in place with a punch, the cotter pin hole doesn't c...

Thanks Norm, I'll probably order the aluminum one without the edges since I had difficulty getting the old one off. Also, my old one has a large chunk missing on the inner hole so not usable.

Well I discovered the reason why I couldn't get the pulley off very easily: the left side of the engine pan nose was slightly bent in so the pulley kept stopping on the one rivet. So I had to grind the obstacle down enough to force the pulley off. It is 3" in diameter, but I'm not sure if it's an ea...

It will have to wait until tomorrow: heavy winds and rain drove me into the house.

Yep, it's stock.

I'm trying to remove the busted crank pulley on my 1910 T, but I can't seem to get it far enough to remove it from the engine because the narrow engine snout won't allow it. There's got to be another way to get this off other than removing the pan. Any tips would be appreciated!

Now THAT was funny Dallas!!

Thanks Allen, I appreciate the kind words. Engine number is 15851, February 4 of 1910 I believe.

That should be run away wheel: darn this stupid auto correct!

I know some of you may have seen my 1910 touring project at the OCF, but I wanted to share some photos on the forum because so many of you have been instrumental in helping me get it finished. It's been a four year journey with plenty of up's and downs, but I was determined to get her ready in time ...

Sorry Bob, I actually just got the car fully operational a few weeks prior to OCF. In fact, the last year was a blur! I still have plenty to do on it, but I was determined to make the festival.

I tried but my wheel decided otherwise!

Dang, I just knew that mishap would end up on the forum! Yes, it was me Turns out you DO need a cotter pin in those rear wheels! Funny, the right one had a cotter.

16315546148204993297547343300635.jpg Ok here is a mystery to me but perhaps not to you. Prior to the OCF, I went to check the coolant level in my reproduction 1910 radiator and found this rubber thing laying on the top of the V fin inside! It's obviously been in there for some time as it's got a bi...

I have used Laurel Mountain Forge Cherry stain on all my early T's. It looks amazing, and was the closest match to the original stain I discovered under the coilbox on an original dash I had. It's not cheap but the little plastic bottle will go a long way.

You simply have to go online or phone them and purchase tickets. The tickets are single day passes. Trust me - you WON'T regret going!

Worked like a charm! Six bucks for the made in USA 1/2" cold chisel, flattened the end and viola, seated nice and solid!

Now that's ingenuity!

So Frank, did you make a tool from a modified screwdriver? If so, could you post a picture of it? And no, I've tried the needle nose pliers and they won't work.

Looks like a trip to the hardware store for a 1/2" wide slotted screwdriver! Thanks for the tip.

So I bought a new float needle and seat for my Holley G carburetor, but not sure what's the best way to install it. I had a deuce of a time getting the old one out with a screwdriver and hammer so I know that's not the best option for reinstallation. Is there a special tool for screwing it down? The...

Thanks Russ! Did they cut it to size and band the edges too or did you do that?

Wow, thanks for all the input, especially the parts sheet and photos showing the actual carpet! So am I correct in assuming that only the 1909 and early '10's had carpet and then the cocoa mat was used? If so, does anyone know what the "cutoff" date would have been? Mine is a February of 1910.

Thank you, Keith, I appreciate the reply! I kinda thought the shield had to attach to the floorboard as there is no where else it could possibly go, since the four screw holes are at the bottom. Makes sense now that I see what it's supposed to look like!

Can someone with an early brass T (1909/10) post a close up pic of their dash without the mat, so I can see how the dash guide and dash shield fit together and where they go? Thanks!

Scott, glad it worked out for you! AW is a class act and they do quality work!

I totally agree; they are essentially the same vehicle but the body lines on all T's are visually pleasing no.matter the year or style; beautiful artwork!

Yep; the entire body, fenders, wheels and chassis all Brewster green. The only parts black are the top sockets and buggy rail I do believe.

Finally put the body back in the chassis! Just waiting on the fenders to come back from the painters.[image][/image]

Thanks for the input fellas; and I'm glad to hear they'll be reproduced! I do have a set of the later style already on the T (reproductions I believe) but thanks for the offer Charley. I'll just wait till they are available.

Does anyone know where I can get the correct flat brass brackets for a 1910 T that hold the windshield spacer board to the dash? The suppliers seem to only sell the later style with the bump in it.

Does anyone know what happened to John King's unrestored and original 1910 model t touring? It was such a great example of a survivor and was for sale for the longest time. Just curious.

Has anyone else had to re-register in order to use the forum??? I have been posting to this site for a long time now, using the same user name and password. However, yesterday I was unable to log in using my former user name. I know the site has been hacked in the past and everyone else was having i...