MTFCA Forum

who makes that gasket?

This is mine: The boy is taller than I am now. In the first picture, he is 7. The second picture, he is 17

What kind of sealant would anyone recommend to put on a wooden firewall before painting it?

Punching this back up, so if you didn't see it, you can now. While it's not an in depth description, IF I come across information that pertains to the car that would be beneficial to others, I will post it.

I started a blog website showing the restoration of my 1922 or 23 Center Door Sedan.

https://army30th.wixsite.com/centerdoor

It is a work in progress, and all of the posts are today even though some of the work was done over 8 months ago.

Check it out.

Never noticed a difference before.

Driveshaft housing on my current touring is a tapered tube.

Driveshaft housing on my bare chassis is "stepped".

Why the difference?

Mark Gregush wrote: ↑
Fri Nov 13, 2020 6:10 pm
The APCO came with good adjuster. I have seen some other brands that were pot metal, real buggers to get out.

Yes, you are so correct. I have an extra one with no hope of ever getting the adjuster out of it.

My soon to be Centerdoor chassis came with accessory APCO ball connections.

So did my current touring chassis.

The only items I replaced is the spring, cup and cotter pin. The screw adjustment is original and in perfect condition

I went the alternator route when I finished the car in 2011 but it never worked correctly. I eventually sold it

Mark Gregush wrote: ↑
Mon Nov 09, 2020 2:05 am
How old is the battery and have you had it load tested? Could be the battery just needs replacing.

Battery is probably in need of changing out

I believe Pat was George’s apprentice. I know nothing further about George other than a friend of mine had an engine done by him about 10 years ago.

George’s business was bought out. It’s known now as Pat’s Restoration Services, LLC. Patrick Musante is the owner

I’ll have to guess as to what it might be. There is nothing in the wood drawings in the body parts books that even remotely shows anything. I have the wood on the side of the floorboard riser but there is nothing showing any imprint of having been attached to the interior front cowl wood that would ...

Ok, tried it Either I didn’t make the contact surfaces clean enough or something else is going on. I attached a #12 solid copper core wire from between the ground strap/frame to a bolt in the the universal joint I drove the car with the lights on. I still have power loss. I’m going to scrounge up th...

Henry K. Lee wrote: ↑
Sat Nov 07, 2020 8:04 pm
Check for a bad ground or better yet, attach a ground wire from the frame to the engine block.

Hope this Helps,

Hank

Can you explain in more detail?

How is your generator running? Your voltage drop increases with speed as the coils are buzzing more frequently and it is drawing current to run the points. It appears that you might be drawing down the battery at a greater rate than the generator output. Norm It appears to run fine. I start the car...

Does the T screwdriver have a steel hex cap set into the end of the wood handle? The driver I have looks like the T driver in the pic, has a wood handle with steel hex end and it's a solid part of the square driver shaft. This seems to be a good feature for sensing the spark voltage when using the ...

What is inside the cowl area between the firewall and the windshield pillar to attach the inner upholstery panel to?

I'm specifically referring to the area where the dashboard is to the rear of the firewall that you would attach to.

Driving the car during the day, everything is fine.

Drive the car with the lights on and it is significantly different. It loses power.

I am currently only running on battery. I know the Mag needs to be charged. It quit a couple of years go.

Diagnose my problem. And......GO!

Joe Bell wrote: ↑
Tue Nov 03, 2020 4:56 pm
That one looks like the one I hauled to hershey last year for a friend to find a new home.

I got it from a HUGE vendor of tools in the area before you cross the overhead walkway.

Yes I know. They are similar, however

One I got from an acquaintance of mine.

The other I got at Hershey last year.

A steering gear is on the way. Thanks much!

Replied to your email!

Small ear

Looking for a quick change band ear, round tabs. No cracks

What have you?

I am looking for ONE 12 tooth steering gear. Of the three I have, one is wobbled out in the center.

What do you have??

Thanks much

sounds interesting....

Roffe wrote: ↑
Thu Oct 22, 2020 4:16 am
What a talented guy. So interesting to see how he forms the sheetmetal. A real artist. Very impressive. Can only find part one and two on youtube, is there more or is this as far as the project has come until today ?

These are the only two he's done so far.

Title says it all....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=00z6xB-hH-A

I'd be willing to wager that you'll never see them again.

That guy just found out the car is full of termites

William, I neglected to describe removing the donor piece from its column. If you wire buff the tabs it should reveal the dimples of the spot welds. If you drill these dimples, the channel will come off with the holes needed for mig welding through. It would be difficult to just break the spot weld...

My column will only have the horn wires in it as the other wiring goes straight to the dash. This is for a Center Door.

it's going to be on a 22. I have no idea what year the column is other than it has a round neck where it attaches to the firewall instead of the square neck of the 26-27 ones.

The tube is the same on the 26 one as it is on my 24-25.

William, on our Canadian sourced cars, only the early ones had a tube. Subsequent columns had a U shaped channel, in two different sizes. The tube and the U shape channels attached differently. Solder is your friend for either type. Welding/brazing on such thin material requires greater skill than ...

Looking for a simple answer to a complex problem. I have a steering column that is practically immaculate except it doesn't have a horn wire tube. I have a crappy column with a fairly good horn wire tube on it. I would like to remove the tube and place it on my other column. Is this doable, and how ...

My local T friend and I redid the valves in my T. It had been running rough ever since I broke a valve head last year. I replaced some valves but didn’t get enough clearance Number 1 was 55 pounds, number 2 was 25, Number 3 was 25 and number 4 was ZERO. Unbelievably, the car ran and drove...warped t...

And further, the place was actually IN Coopersville, Michigan. Here's an advertisement for it..

https://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/ ... 1827443231

Luther Mulder was born in May 1889 and died in Coopersville, MI on August 21st, 1954

There was also a Luther Mulder born in July 1917, and died in Coopersville, MI on September 2, 1997

So you know Mulder Motor Sales existed at least during WW2.

I found where there was an advertisement for Mulder Motor Sales Inc. in the Coopersville High School year book from 1944.

Ok a barn shot from Sunday and one from today

Your PM was answered. Thanks

The Hand Brake is installed and works. I heated the offending mounting brackets with MAPP Gas and doused them with a garden hose. Bingo!

That will break up the rust that currently keeps it from moving?

The cross shaft will not rotate in the mounting brackets. How do you loosen them so it will? RUST

Chevy produced the Series 490 automobile from 1915 to 1922. The 490 chassis was a huge success and became the brand’s main seller. It took big chunks out of the Model T’s market and provided enough revenue to allow Chevy co-founder Billy Durant to buy shares of GM stock. Eventually, Durant merged Ch...

Well, that was easy to figure out.

The brake lever cam on my running car is 3 inches tall. The cam on the bare frame with just an engine is FOUR inches tall.

It's never gonna work. LOL

I do not know if that's the case. Both sets of bolt holes line up to my frame. So I am not entirely sure. Also the hand brake I have has a funky jog in the pawl release rod.

It says it was used to store glass and trim.

What is the correct position for the clutch lever in relation to the fork? An engine I am working on is in a frame that did not have a hand brake on it, and I cannot bolt the hand brake up to the frame. It seems the cam for the adjustment bolt sits too high. I've removed the hand brake from my runni...

EEC countries which are now called EU (European Union, since 1993) are Belgium, France, Germany/West Germany, Italy, Luxembourg, Netherlands, Denmark, Ireland, United Kingdom, Greece, Portugal, and Spain.

Self-Quarantining is "Advised" but is completely voluntary. Consistent with CDC guidance, Virginia currently does NOT have any quarantine requirements for people arriving in the Commonwealth from other U.S. or international locations, as of August 13, 2020. Pennsylvania's list of "Skull and Cross Bo...

that's really nice. Nicer than the two I have

I took the horn outside and hooked it up to my Touring. It WORKS....

I've actually been working on the Center Door Sedan for over a year. A LOT of the job is being done in my basement, while trying to keep the wife from finding out. She found out by tripping over one of the pieces. Oh well. Here's a link to an Imgur file that currently contains 102 images of work tha...

The frame had an Ames horn on it. Stored under a plastic tub for I don't know how long. I don't even know if it works. Been raining on and off today and the place where I can test it is kind of cramped at the moment. horn cap interior as found https://i.imgur.com/bGE6f3k.jpg?2 horn interior as found...

Hub replacement

hub had a retrofitted Chevrolet cap

Haven't posted on my project in a while. I just got more pieces this past weekend. The running gear after I jacked it up and put four replacement wheels on it. The original wheels were rotted through. The engine didn't turn when I got it, now it does. I oiled the bores and with a 2 x 4 scrap, I ligh...

What's the going rate for this? I have both Valmont and V & S locations in my state.

I got mine at Chick Fil A LOL Actually, there was a car show there and a guy was admiring my car and said he had something with "Ford" on it in his garage and that he would GIVE it to me. This arrived in the mail. I had to replace the center grate with an old wash board I cut and drilled. I then coo...

My son and I replaced a hub. Nevermind the Chevrolet hub cab. It's a Model T wheel.

I have four that I got from Model T Haven, but I haven't checked them to see if they are any good.

The original door wood in my car was doweled

So help me out here....is Mark taking over the business, or is this a constant back and forth war?

NEVER use Western Union for anything....their money sending documents are some of the most highly forged in the industry. And there is absolutely no recourse to get your money back.

Never buy a money order from Wal-Mart or the local 7-11 either.

I just answered my own question. A gander at Rootlieb's website confirms that they are the manufacturer, not Howell's. Howell's is a distributor.

Now unless that's changed......

Is Rootlieb not in business any longer? I imagine that would be competition for Howell's or does Rootlieb actually make the stuff to begin with?

On my centerdoor passenger seat legs, they were bolted through the floor

I drove in December in the rain. Blew the muffler cover off, and had it hanging.

I've seen pictures where both seat bottoms were restored the same framing wise However, my passenger seat bottom was just a flat piece of wood with the spring attached to it with the legs bolted to the bottom. Here's how mine looked, but without the carpet bottom. PIC BORROWED FROM NET https://i.img...

the seat back and seat cushion are two pieces. The back folds down and then the seat flips to the front of the car. I have one, but it's going in my center door.

Mac's sells stripe wool cloth materials by the yard, but the stripe pattern is not original.

Well, unfortunately it cannot be assembled in the basement. I don’t have a roll up door.

https://www.facebook.com/william.l.vand ... 039184119/

There WERE two 1915 Model T's in RAGTIME. Here's the other one. This is when "Younger Brother" played by Brad Dourif drives the car away from the hideout, because the police are looking for a Model T full of "colored folk" as Cagney described them. The car here has "ford" across the radiator grill, ...

And unless the guy at Cherokee swapped them out, the car Rollins drives has demountable rims on it.

Well, there was more than one. Unless the movie production company had it shipped to England. The JP Morgan library sets at the end of the movie when the car is driven were filmed at Shepperton Studios in the UK. I believe the reason for that is because they needed several blocks of city streets and...

Here's a picture of Howard E. Rollins, Jr. driving a 1915 touring in RAGTIME that's been "backdated" to about 1909-10, even though logically story wise, (if you know the history of what's going on in the movie), it doesn't make sense. This particular shot isn't in the movie. This scene was filmed in...

Thanks all.

My particular question was answered by my research. Thanks again

I remember that hack. I drove it one day. So you live in Florida now?

And to think I either heard or read that repair shops used to slap hub caps back on with a mallet

I sent you a PM

Thank you for those. Now that I know what they look like, I can check a friend of mine's stash and see if he has any. Probably not.

If you were to let them go, what would you ask?

Can you send me a pic of them?

I've seen a frame that has a 26 rear cross member, but the extensions on the front were welded over the top of the existing frame. Maybe a backyard job?

I don't know all the differences, that's why the question comes to me. What all exactly would need to be changed?

Other that the extra extensions that were welded to the front, longer rear crossmember, and the possibly the brake quadrant, is there any differences in a 1926 frame from earlier ones?

I was thinking how one could modify a 26 frame to fit an earlier car, IF a regular frame could not be procured.

Anybody got a set of these? for a 1922.

It is my understanding that they are different from regular splash aprons from the other Fords of that era.

a repopped set is $190, but I'd like to go original if possible.

Restoration Supply sells individual spring coils so you can replace just the damaged ones. That is if buying a complete spring assembly is out of budget.

Any one need or want? Acquired from a parts liquidation. I don’t use these on my car.

Complete and sealed in original bag. Price is as marked, but they currently run higher.

$12 plus shipping to the states.

Mine. I also have it's matching brother.

perry kete wrote: ↑
Wed May 06, 2020 7:49 pm
That was a great video.
Is that the same guy who makes those Borax Wagon wheels?
He is very talented

Not only did he make the Borax Wagon wheels, he made to full-size Borax Wagon replicas plus the water wagon for watering the 20 mule team.

I'm not planning on removing the windshield glass from the confines of it's frame. With the exception of dirt and paint over-spray, I plan on leaving it. I know some will be against that idea, but then again, I probably wont drive the car that much. I'm referring to the retainers at the bottom edge ...

How does one go about removing glass from the little metal channel that is affixed to the glass at the bottom of the pane. This is for an enclosed car.

Just curious 🤔 has there been any progress with the future of these rewooding plans? Was a price for all the plans every established? To paraphrase American Pickers, "What's your crazy price to make this happen"? Just seems a shame that these plans will be lost. IF it was, it wasn't disclosed. So m...

Changed choke return spring on the touring. Still trying to dig the broken nails out of the Centerdoor woodwork

Royce worked it out for me.

I just don't know how to get back in

I'm also a member of Royce's forum and I cannot get in it. Can't change password, can't re-register. Says website isn't set up to have the CAPTCHA function

Anyone else have that problem?

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