MTFCA Forum

speedytinc wrote: ↑
Thu Sep 11, 2025 12:52 pm

The definition of "new starter" is not clear however.
New as in a WASP (only new available), fresh rebuild by a reputable guy, or newly picked from the parts shelf.

...or as in "fixed".

Now I have a new battery, starter, starter button , new cables & a new bendix.

So, all of these new parts were installed to help solve the starting problem? In other words, you had the starting issue before you added these parts, but the new parts did not help?

How much runout are you seeing? Are your axles maybe bent? Are your hubs tight on the axle shafts? (Check the axle nuts) Is the runout in the rim itself, or in the tire only, or in the felloe? If there is no runout in the felloe, but runout in the rim, It may mean that your rim has shifted on the fe...

Kevin Pharis wrote: ↑
Tue Sep 09, 2025 9:41 pm
Perhaps the issue could be related to the sight glass being installed in the upper petcock…? If you filled till you could see the level, you would be dramatically overfilled. Level should be between the petcocks, not above the top

Yes! 100%

Jerry, very sage advice indeed. Your first point, "Use tacks and not staples," is probably the single biggest help to working with upholstery projects. We can see how staples are abundantly applied in the installation videos, but that is being done by people with ample experience who have a 99% cha...

Eric, The best advice I can give about installing a top is... 1. Use tacks and not staples. Pound in the tacks only 1/2 to 3/4 of the way. 2. Don't think you'll simply install it and be done. Adjustments will be needed constantly, as you progress. That's the reason for not pounding in tacks complete...

The problem is in the Chicago transmission, and it's a serious one. It needs to be disassembled and thoroughly inspected.

John has some excellent observations and suggestions in his comments above... except maybe for this one...

...other slop & years of pooping out of gear.

The bow to the windscreen is fixed, The socket does that, in conjunction with the stand-off brackets that fix it to the windscreen stanchions. The length of the rear bow is fixed by the socket too, as is the mounting for the front two bows. There really is no room for adjustment. Allan from down un...

Not aware of Jaxon making wood 21" wheels for Chevrolet just the 21" disk wheels. Chevrolet use the same 21" wood wheel make as Ford. Jaxon would have their name on the rim clamps. Would not be the first time Chevrolet wheels were mounted on Ford hubs. Wayne may be right on the aftermarket thing. I...

Thanks Ken. I see your front bow side arms look to be perfectly horizontal. When I set the side arms to horizontal, the rear bow is leaning back 1.5" past the tack rail on the body. Move the rear bow to where you believe it should be. How far from horizontal is the front bow, once that's done? Chan...

Anything leaking from your tow vehicle and blowing back on the T?

Your radiator is not flowing freely enough.

They are "Indiana Lamp Co." lamps. My Overland used them. Maybe "Indian" is a miss-stamp? Maybe the "a" has been buffed away?

Just wipe down the cylinders with some oil and turn the engine over, either by hand, or with a repaired starter. You will hurt nothing...

Was it stated anywhere that the engine was stuck?

How is it that we're suggesting he doesn't have a pan suited for a wide brake? He's changing a band, not putting an engine/transmission together for the first time. So, it has apparently worked just fine prior to this. Well, it turns out the "wrong pan" crowd had it nailed! Hats off for that insigh...

How is it that we're suggesting he doesn't have a pan suited for a wide brake? He's changing a band, not putting an engine/transmission together for the first time. So, it has apparently worked just fine prior to this. That's not clear. He claims all his bands were narrow in the past. (first line) ...

How is it that we're suggesting he doesn't have a pan suited for a wide brake? He's changing a band, not putting an engine/transmission together for the first time. So, it has apparently worked just fine prior to this.

I sometimes have issues with the bottom end of the brake band lapping over onto the low band. It's at the bottom, where you can't see it happening, but it creates the situation you seem to be describing. I grab the band ears with pliers and try to "rotate" the band so as to "swing" its bottom end re...

Do you think a washer under the right front bracket will do it? I removed the bolt but it doesn’t appear that I can lift it very easily. Only you can really know that, since you have the car to examine. I would guess that the mount to shim would be the one closest to the door opening. As to its bei...

BATTERY HORN

: Horn - MAG1.png (325.69 KiB) Viewed 276 times

MAGNETO HORNS

: Horn - BATTERY.png (144.06 KiB) Viewed 276 times

: Horn - MAG2.png (101.79 KiB) Viewed 276 times

I have a newly acquired 16 runabout, the door seems too big for the opening. If I push at the base of the windshield on the right side I can get it closed. Does anyone have any tips on what I can do to correct this? I’m new to model Ts. Place shims, (washers), between the body mounting points and t...

If the pinion bearing is the Fun Projects kit, the collar that is clamped onto the driveshaft may have slipped a little. That could allow too much driveshaft thrust. Remove the plug under the u-joint and see if you can pry the driveshaft fore-aft. "Yes" on the possibility of the collar slipping. It...

Some repair history is in order here. Back in 2017 the rear end exploded due to a split pinion gear caused by disintegrated babbit thrust washers. I had a complete overhaul with new ring & pinion set, new BRONZE thrust washers, new driveshaft, and a new u-joint installed at that time. There is NO i...

It appears to me as if you may still be using babbitt thrust bearings and that they're about to totally "let go". Or, maybe you have some bad pinion bearing issues. Given your last sentence, I have no suggestions.

Do you know if and where they will be set up at Hershey? Thanks for posting this. Dan I'll bet these people would know... New Wheels and Rims for Model T’s Made in the USA by INDAZ AMERICA Rodrigo Diaz, CEO 495 S. Shell Road, Ste A6, Debary Florida, 32713 <www.indazamerica.com> mailto:<info@indazam...

Original Smith wrote: ↑
Fri Aug 29, 2025 1:54 pm
A friend who grew up in Dearborn thinks it's Greenfield village. Another former employee of Ford, can't identify that wall.

The Henry Ford Museum & Greenfield Village was built in 1929, so I'm thinking not. I believe there was an airport on the site before '29.

Does anyone remember when the Jamboree was held in South Point,O. ?? That was our first Jamboree. I remember it well! It was a great tour and my 2nd Ohio Jamboree. My cousin and I drove my T from Detroit to South Point. It was 325 miles and a real adventure! This current Jamboree is my 34th. So man...

Tom Dove Jr wrote: ↑
Thu Aug 28, 2025 1:04 pm
Moderator, please delete post.

Just change the thread title to "Model A". Someone may still be interested.

Sitting in my motel room here in Wooster just waiting for it all to begin.

Karl Von Neumann wrote: ↑
Mon Aug 25, 2025 11:42 am
No idea on brand on spring is busted and missing 3 caps $80 shipped

Karl,

PM & email sent...

People sometimes also add a felt between the outside of the cup and the wheel hub. Not saying that's correct, just that some people do it.

I am shocked and saddened to tears. I enjoyed his enthusiasm and sense of humor.

May his soul rest in peace...

A 3/4" pipe tap is the perfect size to screw into the old driveshaft bushing . . . I’ve had good results using a tap to remove “blind” or flanged bushings. Perhaps Frank’s shop-made tool would be economical for some. The cheapest 3/4” pipe tap listed in McMaster-Carr is $97.87. YMMV The cheapest 3/...

Dan McEachern wrote: ↑
Tue Aug 26, 2025 4:11 pm
A 3/4" pipe tap is the perfect size to screw into the old driveshaft bushing. With the tap in place, its an easy job to use any stiff rod to drive the tap and old bushing out of the driveshaft tube- no special tools required.

What he said^^^

NorthSouth wrote: ↑
Tue Aug 26, 2025 1:06 pm
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I can’t help but wonder what this “$22,000.00” 1910 Ford Touring Car looks like and what condition it’s in.

It's a well-known car on this forum. You don't have to wonder either, just ask for pictures if you're interested.

That brand & design of front springs/shocks were pointed out as a factor in the fatal crash of Ken Meek. My apologies for bringing this up. I do not like sabotaging people's for sale items. However, on these style shock absorbers, it is very important to keep reminding that the fronts of these shou...

During one of these discussions, a member of this forum mentioned having an example of this same shock absorber. His example had previously been broken in a similar fashion and was welded back together.

That brand & design of front springs/shocks were pointed out as a factor in the fatal crash of Ken Meek. My apologies for bringing this up.

A simple question... with avalanche of the usual responses...

This one says it best, however.

Humblej wrote: ↑
Thu Aug 21, 2025 7:29 pm
Just follow the procedures in the Ford Service Manual.

Are you certain about the engine model, 5R? The model SU was very popular in 1924, apparently.

Just because the fire engine is rare does not mean that the starter will rare as well. You state that it has a Wisconsin engine. Wisconsin engines are not so rare. Finding a starter for a 5R engine may not be so difficult. Try posting a wanted ad on the AACA website simply searching for Wisconsin 5R...

They can be had on eBay for about $9.00 plus shipping.

bookmarked that video... 2 cool things together right there! Thanks for posting the link to it. I'm about a month out from being in that seat, just waiting on some parts. Question: Without a Ruckell Axle and in Colorado (high altitude), what would the estimated top speed be for a Model-T? I can't s...

PM sent...

I am most interested in getting parts readily available instead of waiting for a long back order. There are not multiple manufacturers for any given item. Most likely, if one vendor has no stock, the others will not either, since they all use the same source. Maybe by chance, one vendor may still h...

Mis-aligned pulleys can stretch one side of a flat fan belt, rather than it being a manufacturing fault. This happens more often on the cars with the longer fan arm. The remedy is to check and possibly reset the fan arm so the fan shaft is parallel to the crankshaft. Allan from down under. 100% ^^^

Diamond tufting does not guarantee comfort. It's all about what is used for padding.

I would wire it from the battery lead, (the thick yellow wire), with a switch placed in-line. That way, it can be used at any time, whether or not the car is running or if the headlights lights are turned on.

Yikes! Looks like my grandmother, but less tough.

You can certainly "test" the starter with the engine head removed, but it won't be a great test since it won't take much torque at all to spin an engine with no compression. It will tell you whether or not the starter is "dead" or "alive", I suppose, and if the bendix will engage. It won't tell you ...

You'll have better luck advertising it here: viewforum.php?f=4

NorthSouth wrote: ↑
Thu Aug 14, 2025 1:21 pm
“Is this car still for sale” sounds like it’s coming from a scammer.

Why? Because he's new?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/267294002958?_skw=1%2F4+x+18+tap&itmmeta=01K2WYPB1MRY4MBZKDD7AD6GTY&hash=item3e3bf6cf0e:g:uR4AAOSwS-poUYlt&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA0FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1ftIjXssXjM%2Blf7RyjmCUvPl3k82qOJxh5fiQcFfzcAW%2BsQWIIlzkbHY6qXgiF3nx4UM41J3zWY2Y%2FYh26aHQooK1rFSJ9VxLV1Hj2gtzLbiU%2BozOVszI...

You can buy one at Home Depo for $7.48 and they ship for free either next day or within a day or two. You can check the internet for other deals. Al, I'm fairly certain that the one you can buy at Home Depot is a 1/4-18 NPT tap. In other words, a pipe thread. I am assuming Pat wants a straight thre...

There is supposed to be a screen in that valve. Remove the bottom fitting to access/clean it. Being a repop valve, it may not be there. When you drain the valve do you get a bunch of rust flakes? I would not be so fast to pull the tank. The sediment bowl screen is designed to filter any chunks larg...

All of the companies listed are top notch in my opinion. They are all there to serve the hobby and without them we would be in a world of hurt. While parts may vary from vendor to vendor, they still do the job. I have had great experiences with all of the vendors. Being a vendor myself, I rely heav...

Two pedal, two lever??

I see your other pictures, showing 3 pedals & 1 lever. Do you have any engine pics?

In retrospect I should have posted the arching however in that the mag never worked right from the beginning after a full rebuild including rebuilt coils. I did not consider that the arching would have discharged the magnets that I fully charged individually and pull tested all magnets to exceed 3 ...

Alden, In my case I had observed an arcing from the spark plug wire connections at the firewall to the 12v cloth covered wire supplying 12 v + power to the coil box. I had relocated the 12V supply wire and the mag never performed properly after finding that issue. A thanks to all that responded. Th...

Just post to the general discussion forum thread. For the most part, its purpose is for just what you describe.

It's beginning to appear as if your ball bearing 4th main needs to go back to the maker for a replacement, or at least an inspection.

Imagine, if a new car was sold today, that would break the arm of its owner if simply started the wrong way...

When you switch to MAG you are now placing an electrical load on the magneto. Either your magneto is not in good enough condition, or your electrical load is too great. Something shorted? Or, you may have a poor electrical connection somewhere that will not carry the load.

Are people intentionally advancing the spark to start or is their timing too retarded initially with the lever all the way up? The timing rod on one of my cars needed to be adjusted when I got it as it was too retarded with the lever all the way up. I just marked the quadrant three notches further ...

fireheadman wrote: ↑
Sat Aug 09, 2025 3:04 pm

Hardest part is what I put down for the "year" for insurance... The title has 1911 on it...

Put down the year it's titled as. Don't muddy the waters. So, it's a 1911 with a 1925 engine. As I stated earlier, it happens all the time. Curious however, if the title references the same 1925 VIN...

Welcome Ben! What a nice looking Pie Wagon! Don't be too concerned about the later parts. Having a starter and generator may have been a great help for your grandfather in his later years, when cranking doesn't come as easy. There are many Model T's that have been coverted to "starter cars" for that...

Welcome Ben! What a nice looking Pie Wagon! Don't be too concerned about the later parts. Having a starter and generator may have been a great help for your grandfather in his later years, when cranking doesn't come as easy. There are many Model T's that have been coverted to "starter cars" for that...

I think there are 2 different counter balanced crank made in the day. Sure Mike's have a bad reputation, the other 1 is very durable. I don't know how to tell the difference, but I have 1 that was on a originally on a overhead stick, that I now have on a OHV. It has suffered much abuse from me, and...

Those are all band-aides to get around properly rebuilding a front end.

Dave,

Is this actually a piece of babbitt, or is it a cast iron advertising piece, to maybe be used as a paperweight? I ask this due to its color, which resembles cast iron with a slight rust haze over it.

Guy,

Do those mounting brackets suggest any possible way to attach to a Model T? Will the 2-hole ends fit up under a T fender bracket, where it attaches to the frame?

Does your camshaft have a lot of end play?

Aside from wearing the tire (which I haven't actually seen happen and I cover a lot of miles) what damage could occur if I keep driving it like it is? At the tire there is maybe half an inch of wobble, give or take and nothing is noticeable when driving the car. It most certainly has been present f...

CamMan wrote: ↑
Tue Aug 05, 2025 11:12 am
The folklore I call the "Flows too fast" theory is persistent. As mentioned, if it flows too fast to cool down in the radiator then it's flowing too fast to heat up in the engine. What counts is heat removed (BTUs) not temperature change.

Thank you!

Are the sleeves marked "Ford" or "Hyatt"? If so, definitely use them.

Slowing the flow of coolant is exactly what you want - the coolant spends more time in the radiator. This often made claim always ignores the fact that the coolant also spends more time in the engine. Water pumps help when flow restrictions are an issue, but the radiator still has otherwise accepta...

I ran a set of ball bearing replacement cartridges years ago. They were great, slipped right in and didn’t have to grease em. The ones I had required trimming of the axle tube ends, same as safety hubs. After a few years I pulled the rear to build into a Ruckstell, but couldn’t get the bearing cart...

The best option I'm aware of are the floating style hubs.

As for your unanswered emails, that is the general trend these days. It seems that maybe 50%, or more, of emails sent to companies or other organizations are never answered, especially if sent as blind emails, to general information type addresses. It's best to phone or visit in person, if possible.

No-one has mentioned the seriously compromised braking when running any overdrive transmission. With a 3:1 You are stuck with it. With a KC Warford at least you can change down to standard Ford gearing and use the standard transmission brake. I took the 3:1 diff out of my speedster before I sold it...

Welcome! It appears that you have a great adventure ahead of you, (and several behind you as well!). Good luck in your search for a T capable of your plans.

FWIW, since you're exploring old tech, have a look into antique, wind-up phonographs as well.

Anton Seelmann wrote: ↑
Fri Aug 01, 2025 11:41 am
Hello everyone,
Jerry: The larger valves are "modern style" with valve spring retainer split keepers.

Great! Thanks for the update.

FWIW, I bought that exact same oil checking tool. The nice wood handle just spun on the shaft the first time I used it. I grabbed the handle and bent the shaft 90 degrees. Works great now. Like turning a door handle. I don't know what you consider crawling on the ground. I get down on one knee to us...

Hello specialists, Note: The installed valves all have a larger "plate." Are the larger "plates" just flat washers? If the valve springs are retained by the original style keeper pins, a simple flat washer will allow them to drift out of the valve stems. Maybe the hoses were supposed to help retain...

Never insult your elders young man, very rude! It is called.., "A figure of speech" and you need to know the difference. My sincerest apologies for not realizing it was a figure of speech, I am so sorry to anyone I have offended or mislead because of my post, and I will refrain from any posts or co...

mbowen wrote: ↑
Tue Jul 29, 2025 11:26 pm
Didn’t do Oshkosh this year - conflicted with the MTFCI Tour. Priorities.

Happy you made the "right" choice.

The torque on the axle nut is only part of the mix. It is probably more important to make sure that the axle taper is free of any damage and burrs. Likewise the bore in the hub. Then if the key is snug in the keyway, you are set to go. ... it is undesirable that the drive should be transmitted thro...

Interesting that the hood has louvers all the way along the side panels. This is not typical, is it? Maybe a clue to identification, albeit a small one.

It might help to know your grandfather's name and in what city or state the car was sold. As already mentioned, the VIN number makes no sense for 1916, unless it was given a new VIN by some DMV office.

Very cool. Thanks for the pictures! I wish I could collect these too, as well as Great Lakes freighters, but you know how it is, a garage can only hold just so much.

Dave wrote: ↑
Tue Jul 29, 2025 12:14 pm
Hi Jerry,
I found out it is Bruce Van Sloun.
One of the officers said they would add it.
Cheers,
Dave

Thanks Dave! I had the pleasure of speaking with him last week, on the MTFCI Tour in MN. He had his S Runabout on the tour.

WillyR wrote: ↑
Tue Jul 29, 2025 2:22 pm

I have already gotten a plethora of spare gaskets…

What else would i get?

A plethora is just about the right number.

Jerry, that’s so ludicrous that you could assume a ‘misfire’ couldn’t cause a T crankshaft to break if it wasn’t previously weakened. You’d have no idea what condition my recently rebuilt engine was in back in 1976. Granted, I foolishly allowed 15-20 consecutive loud explosion whistles to fire off ...

Dave,

I'm not aware of a 9th Board member. Here is what's currently on the EFR website...

https://earlyfordregistry.org/board-of-directors/

It would help if you showed some pictures of the car itself, versus 4 pictures of the engine.

Also, this is the "Parts" classified section. Try posting it in Vehicles for Sale.

This is interesting. I'm surprised to see the "usual" core when viewed from the backside. Does this radiator have essentially 3 cores? One on each side of the "vee" and the one "normal" core as well?

I think I’ll hold out for a splitdorf plug or two, depending on the going rate… I will also ask for the adapter and long reach plug if anyone has spares of either. Willy, If you're thinking of the Splitdorf plug with the whistle adapter, and you actually can find one, you're likely to end up with a...

Have we scared off the OP?

I call the explosion whistle in the picture that Dan posted - a crankshaft breaker. Back in ‘76 during the Colorado centennial tour I was a 26 year old kid with an explosion whistle on a T. I loved its ‘chortle’ sound when actuated going down an incline road. When ascending a Rocky Mountain road th...

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