MTFCA Forum

henryford2

thanks, but already tried and they don't.

henryford2

That would be great, doesn't have to be "restoration" perfect, just some thing that shows use and some patina works for me. Thanks

henryford2

WTB Finned Aluminum Transmission Door, seems the vendors no longer have them. New or used, prefer something with some patina so used would be great. Sorry for the poor picture. Thanks

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henryford2

Thanks Pete, it's a start!

henryford2

Still cleaning out the top of the barn. I'm going to assume it's a #4 Houk. The threads are 3"-10 TPI and the OL diameter is 7 3/8". The square hole throws me? So what is it (maker, application?) Thanks 8FFBECD2-2DE8-42DB-88B1-3C595775144D_1_105_c.jpeg EF0859E9-DA19-4370-904B-32CF3C5EAF42_1_105_c.jp...

henryford2

In my working career I probably scrapped over 250 tons of the old "dog" clutch stamping presses most for not meeting current OSHA standards for press safety. The only advice I can offer to avoid liability issues is to take the motor off and sell it as a non operating press for parts. JMHO

henryford2

These are Dan's parts on my engine with a full length B crank. Great parts and a fine guy to work with.

henryford2

Thanks Kevin!

henryford2

Cleaning out the top of the barn. Foreign to me. Threaded portion measures 3"- 10 TPI. Large flange is 7 3/8". Overall height 6". Rear bearing hub diameter is 3 1/8". What manufacturer, what size? Thanks! 431DC0BD-9A91-4AD1-A294-23399ED8C0B8_1_201_a.jpeg E6D25CDD-5D2A-4BDA-888F-E6D8CF7038BD_1_201_a....

henryford2

The Automotive Trade Directory Oct. 1919- Volume XVII- No. 4. Over 1,000 pages of interesting bathroom reading material! Binding is loose, some pages discolored, the color inserts appear to be all there but some are loose from the binding. Positive there is NO basement smell! $45 includes shipping i...

henryford2

some more pictures:

henryford2

As found. Float is present, as is choke horn (missing band ). Includes an adapter flange to rotate the orientation of the flange. Working condition unknown, good candidate for rebuild or parts. $150 includes shipping in the CONUS

henryford2

Last time I spoke to Tim, he was contemplating selling the Mercury speedster project. A great start for someone, he had most, if not all of the original parts to finish it!

henryford2

Between Tim & I we've had a few people reach out and ask "what ever happened to Tim". Simple answer is that he was permanently banned from the website. So watch your P's & Q's when you post.

henryford2

He is doing well, although slowing down only a bit (like most of us his/my age) our picking days are getting less frequent. He is keeping busy, but not so much with the T accessories. I believe he still actively makes the oil can holders and choke controls.

henryford2

I'm with Dan on this one. JC Whitney was THE source for Model T parts, most made in Argentina. Before you get nostalgic and make the remark "they don't make things like they use to " be happy they don't. I remember having to make all those parts work, nothing came ready to use! JMHO

henryford2

Still looking, either a Stromberg base or Winfield BB.

henryford2

I third it. What's nice about Sid is he will drop your axle, although he may have some for exchange.So you get back what you sent

henryford2

yep, that's my old machine!

henryford2

I also had the pleasure of knowing him during the AARA hay days in Ohio. In fact 2 of the 4 T's I own still have his babbitt work in it. He always use to tell me "don't make it shinny". If I can find them I will post pictures of some of the work he had done.

henryford2

Tim's a busy guy. It was on his radar to get done, but he's been busy restoring his Model F and Mercury Speedster amongst many other interesting projects!

henryford2

SOLD thanks MTFCA

henryford2

Listing this for a friend. If there are any questions the contact information is in the description. Do not contact me, I know very little about the body, although I've seen it and it has a fantastic shape with some outstanding original patina! " A great start to a unique auto build. It's been hangi...

henryford2

That's a smoking deal on the oil pan and cart. I just spent a boatload of time doing something similar on a pan!

henryford2

Drew, this is the pan you bought from me on Ebay. I made this at least 30 years ago. It was gas welded. I ran this on a non pressurized motor for years with no issues. I would be happy to buy it back from you if you decide not to use it.

henryford2

One last bump to the top. Thanks

henryford2

Thanks Kevin! I run the S-BB on my BB Rajo and like the ease in setting it up.

henryford2

Brent, Pat great help, one last question any opinion on a Winfield S-BB on this engine. Have one on the shelf, but Winfield manifolds are hard to come by, although I do have an stromberg to winfield adapter. Thanks again

henryford2

Thanks Brent, let me explain what I'm doing and my interest in Volumetric Efficiency (VE). I trying to pick a carb based on VE for an engine that I have. It's 204 CI Model T, stock bore, Model B crank with a stroke of 4 5/8", larger intake valves, ported intakes, high compression custom Ross pistons...

henryford2

Sorry, I may not have been clear in what I was asking. The attached is a comparison chart of relatively new engines (assuming overhead valve). The information I'm looking for specifically is a comparison of engine construction types, L head, F head, Overhead valve, etc. specifically the Model T engi...

henryford2

Saw a chart years ago that listed an average volumetric efficiency of different engine types (L head, crossflow, flathead, overhead, etc) can't locate it again. Obviously wanting to know the VE for the T engine. Thanks

henryford2

Brent, PM sent, thanks

henryford2

Charlie doesn't show them on his web site anymore. There is a new Burns manifold available (Snyders), I'll more than likely go that route. I was hoping someone had one on the shelf collecting dust. Thanks

henryford2

BB, thanks

henryford2

Looking for an aluminum downdraft intake manifold either Stromberg bolt pattern or Winfield (preferred). No broken ears, stripped threads, ready to use. Maker does not matter. Thanks

henryford2

Having a look at the dash plaques would help. The AARA (antique auto racing association) was big in Ohio during that period. Most of the drivers/owners have passed. They did publish a small magazine/newsletter you may have some luck searching the internet for issues. Dan Price I believe was active b...

henryford2

PM sent on the deep sump oil pan. Thanks

henryford2

Kind of off the subject, but at a minimum if will bump it back to the top, but the machine looks like one I owned quite a few years back. Do you have a history on how you came about it. Thanks

henryford2

Lot of engine for splash oiling, or am I missing something? Otherwise looks awesome. Just my humble opinion

henryford2

Back to the top, thanks

henryford2

My annual WTB post for original rear door upholstery for a 26/27 Fordor. Gray with red stripe. The ones currently on the car have had the map pockets cut off. Thanks

henryford2

Saw the one for sale by Mark, but it has sold. Not a 32 Ford expert, but the intake manifold he offered looked like for an A not a B, the exhaust manifold was correct for 32. Thanks for the lead

henryford2

Looking for a good complete rebuildable core Model B carburetor 1932 and intake manifold. There's a number of the them on Ebay, prefer to buy from a club member and hope to avoid the overpriced shipping and sales tax. Thanks

henryford2

Here is Tim's side of the story. I've known Tim since he was in high school, later our daughters grew up riding in the backs of Model T's, he and I were the original "pickers" before television and are still friends to this day. Personally I believe the Club/Forum and members are the ones getting th...

henryford2

Unfortunately Tim will no be able to post his gratefulness for the "on the spot" compliments or continue to sell his line of nicely made accessories on this forum since it's my understanding he's been banned from posting in the future on the MTFCA forum? Mind your Ps & Qs when you post.

henryford2

Found them @ Lucas Tire in Long Beach CA.

henryford2

Does anyone know of any one who may have the 21" inner tube in stock. I'm batting zero so far, most vendors are out of stock with no "real good" idea of when they will be available. Thanks

henryford2

With the grandchildren!

henryford2

Good looking, I think I owned one of those for a short period of time, although the "Uncle Sam" is my all time favorite.

henryford2

you are grounding the plugs "setting on the table" back to the magneto?

henryford2

Good advice Tim. I replaced the rear axles on two cars last year. I found the axles from Snyders (they may be making them for all the vendors at this point in time) where dead on the money. No issues going on.

henryford2

thanks Craig, I've also used the small block Chevy bolts in the past, just spitballing to see what other options that may be out there.

henryford2

Anyone have experience using ARP 12 point connecting rods bolts & nuts? Building a stroker engine where camshaft clearance may be a problem. If you've used them and are satisfied with the experience, part numbers would be helpful, bolts or nuts. Any threaded locking compound used on these? Thanks

henryford2

Comments deleted, since I can't delete my post entirely

henryford2

close enough for what I need, thanks!

henryford2

Sure would like to "Confirm" the Model A spacing. Searched the MAFCA and couldn't find it. Thanks

henryford2

I found the Model T at 4 1/8", 5 1/4" & 4 1/8" what is the Model A spacing? Thanks

henryford2

What is the bore spacing for the T engine as well as the Model A. Searched but with no avail. Thanks

henryford2

I "assumed" that it had been repaired and stand corrected. The thin line around the shoulder where it meets the case seemed to be too narrow for a groove worn by the thrust washers, and the inside thrust surfaces don't look grooved, usually I've see both conditions in a worn cases. Blame it on old e...

henryford2

Bruce, yes it would fit your car (although the case with studs is later 1915-21). It appears that its' been repaired with a bushing that restored the inner axle gear thrust surface and the shoulder that supports the thrust washers (from what I can tell). I would pass unless the seller can tell me wh...

henryford2

Les, they may have been laser cut, but copper is a challenge to laser cut. CO2 lasers allow too much back reflected light to damage the optics (an expensive repair). Better choice is a Fibre laser, reflected light is not a problem. An even better choice (in my humble opinion) is water jet cutting. N...

henryford2

These are Ford 8N parts. Might be helpful if your'e scratch building your radius rods and they do have the "vintage look". Readily available on Ebay. Enjoy

henryford2

I assuming that this is an "acceptable" method of modifying the later 3321 transmission driving plate into a 3321B for the 26/27 transmission?

henryford2

I'm actually going with a style that is going to require very few bends.

This is the one I did for the Rajo, much more work!

henryford2

Found what I needed, thanks for the help

henryford2

Do you know the diameter of the J-tube? I've normally bought my bends from Summit or Jegs. Thanks

henryford2

Is anyone making a header plate or have accurate drawings they would be willing to share? Not a plate to adapt the Model A manifolds to the block but one where I can build a set of headers. There was a PDF posted a while back for one, but there was a conflict in some of the dimensions? If not, I'll ...

henryford2

Should have mentioned that I'm running a VW pump from the cam. The idea remote filter bracket would have multiple outlets (2) one for the bearing supply and another for a pressure relief valve as well as a smaller port for a gauge or pressure switch. Thanks

henryford2

I'm running a deep sump pan. That's where I'll locate the pickup. Good question about appearance (period correct). I'm looking for exactly the opposite, billet aluminum and stainless braided lines will be OK. Thanks

henryford2

Working on a full pressure oil setup on a T engine. Looking for recommendations/sources/options on: adjustable pressure relief valve (bypass), check valve, remote oil filter adapter and oil pickup/screen. Dan McEachern makes a neat remote oil filter adapter with an adjustable relief valve, but he is...

henryford2

I'm running a full length Model B crank with a rear driven VW oil pump and full oil pressure. Before I drill and tap all the holes in the flywheel for the slingers (I had to use this shorty style, thanks Dan McEachern, to clear the oil pump), I thought I'd solicit some advice. With the slingers I'll...

henryford2

Joe and myself stuffing ourselves in his plane after picking up my engine at his shop. Enjoy

henryford2

Yes, your style slingers will clear the pump, hoping the triple gear retaining plate does, what size mounting bolts are you using for the slingers? I've retapped an original #14-24 threaded gear for 1/4"-28 but not a new 1/4"-24 one. Thanks, Joe

henryford2

From what I have read, I'm guessing the 6mm is only good for the #14-24 thread size, not the 1/4-24. 6mm has a major diameter of .2362, the #14 a .24 and the 1/4-28 at .250. Thanks

henryford2

I'm installing a "new" starter ring gear that is tapped to 1/4-24. I am not running magnets and may not have room for slingers (Model B crank, stock length with VW oil pump driven from rear of camshaft). From what I've seen vendors often provide a complete set of the correct size bolts with their sl...

henryford2

Found these tearing down an engine with an older rebuild. The valves have .030 oversize stems (.342), Model A springs, these retainers and the stock Model T valve pin? I thought they may be a "modern retainer for use with the split keepers or Ford Tractor (8N,9N), but I can't find any good enough pi...

henryford2

wow, awesome, thanks everyone!

henryford2

Not a Model T water pump obviously, looking for opinions as to what car/year that it may have come from. Thanks A428DCE4-1FFF-43F7-873C-1FAC0E80A2AA_1_105_c.jpeg 4DF6EB38-F2E6-43D8-982A-D747449ADFBF_1_105_c.jpeg 03A8CFCD-CA57-4B58-A57A-6FCEE3A0503B_1_105_c.jpeg C1AB3171-1CD4-45A9-A9EE-8507CCA4CAF6_1...

henryford2

I agree with Jerry, my suggestion would be to drain the rear end and replace with 600W, hard to tell if someone had earlier replaced the 600W with a "modern" 90W or 140W. The match up between axle halves is not the greatest to begin with, with or without the thin paper gasket. A lot less work that t...

henryford2

Thanks everyone. I'm guessing that these are kevlar bonded to a cotton backing (see pictures). I had bought these new (many years ago) and only changed the brake band (1926/27) in the car at that time. That band is still in the car with no problems (that I'm aware of). 08DF1C9E-F687-432C-9D10-32A9FF...

henryford2

Like the title says, any guess as to what lining this might be? Never installed in the transmission. Appears to be two different materials bonded together? Thanks FB22B0F3-DD17-4E2C-BC8C-49D6D861B6A1_1_105_c.jpeg 5E21B659-E7DE-4B3D-8D79-96FF800D06DA_1_105_c.jpeg BF85E7AB-F81C-47E3-A205-F1E55609CA53_...

henryford2

Eric, if you plan on replacing the original upholstery I would have an interest in some or if not all of what you replace. Thanks, Joe

henryford2

A few years back I sold a cast aluminum pan and adapter that was used to mount a C4 transmission to the Model T Engine. A popular conversion at one time as I understand it. Engine was built by Orville Enyeart and owned by Andy Mounce. I believe LaRue Thomas is responsible for these casting. 519643.j...

henryford2

Not a speedster, but still Model T powered. Enjoy

henryford2

Contact Tim Morsher, he may be able to help

henryford2

First time seeing these for me as well, great looking brackets. Many were homemade, may have been an expensive alternative back then and not popular, thus the rarity?

henryford2

Find some one with a water jet or plasma table and cut them from 1" plate. You can relocate the mounting holes on the side to match the bumper bracket holes on a 26/27 (I think), but not meant to use the heavier 26/27 rear crossmember. It will give you a 5" drop and no need to shorten the driveshaft...

henryford2

“I invented nothing new. I simply assembled the discoveries of other men behind whom were centuries of work. Had I worked fifty or ten or even five years before, I would have failed. So it is with every new thing. Progress happens when all the factors that make for it are ready, and then it is inevi...

henryford2

Comments removed, not pertinent to current conversation, my apologize.

henryford2

There is an overlap in the Ra finish possible for either lathe turning and grinding. 32-16 is possible with lathe turning. Easier to find someone who can turn your drums rather than grinding.

henryford2

Is there a surface finish (micro finish) recommendation (Ford drawing) for the drums? Could it be different for softer bands (cotton) versus harder Kevlar?

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henryford2

Finalized the piston design with Ross Pistons, enjoyed working with them. 4 5/8" stroke, stock bore 3.750".

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henryford2

Last update for this year, the snow is starting to fall and the shop is not heated (intentionally)! Coincidentally, the engine was originally built in California and in a runabout way it's returning there. Joe Bell (Tiffin OH) for the babbitt and machine work, Dan McEachern (Alamedea CA) for the oil...

henryford2

This shouldn't be all that difficult? Are you using a hand pump? If so make sure it has a check valve on the end, some do, many do not (McMaster Carr). From the check valve go to a T fitting one end goes to your pressure gage (sometimes hard to find at the low pressures) the other end goes to your g...

henryford2

What Dave said, no oil reservoir, almost looks like a rod setup for oil pressure?

henryford2

I saw the clutch that Joe is referencing, the clutch material on the disc was gone. You can go old school like I did some 20 years ago (still in the car, but I don't put nearly as many miles as before) using a hand nibbler and a bucket of old clutch discs that a transmission builder gave to me free ...

henryford2

Thanks Terry, I've got them installed. Written instructions are great (sometimes), but in this case I felt that the two washers behind the brake bracket was the right way to go on the big drum installation, it created a small amount of clearance between the brake casting and the radius rod bracket. ...

henryford2

Thanks Henry & Steve. I read the instructions for the earlier model and they do mention the use of the two washers. Personally I think they're needed more on the 26/27 since the brake casting is the same for the early & late models but the width of the "V" in the radius rod is much smaller on the 26...

henryford2

Funny I saw your post as I was going to get lunch! I bought the brakes used so no hardware. I read the instructions from the vendors and no mention of using the flat washers as spacers? I don't like the two castings in such close proximity to each other, so unless someone tells me that using them is...

henryford2

I guess a third option is to put more of a "joggle" in the spring loaded brackets pulling the bottom of the lining out further (or in depends upon your perspective) to match the top and minimize the skew. Looking for suggestions before I bother.

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