MTFCA Forum

namdc3

Read Page 32 here... http://www.aeroelectric.com/Reference_Docs/Books/Model_T_Ignition_System.pdf That spells out the change orders, but there is some complication when considering Ford vs. K-W production. There are a lot of tongue and groove, 6-screw coils, for example, and that doesn't match up wi...

namdc3

Here’s some discussion but no conclusion as of 10 years ago.

https://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/5 ... 1424193693

namdc3

I have a question for the coil experts out there. Different brass-top coils seem to have different copper contents in the brass. Was this a change that was distinctly made based on a date, or was it random or vendor based? Some look to be very high copper content, but I assume that they are still so...

namdc3

Just an fyi for folks, I bought and paid for the Holley G. Check is in the USPS system somewhere.

namdc3

I could probably open a can with it if I swung it hard enough.

namdc3

Does anyone have any magical ideas on what this tool is? The only marking I can find is T 38.

namdc3

Sent email on the G

namdc3

I typed too slowly. Ha, what he said.

namdc3

Since a lot of commutators wear out in between the contacts, I’m guessing this one is designed to help mitigate that by having the rotor always be supported by metal. In other words, the “brush” is wide enough to span the gaps between the metal inserts and is therefore always supported by metal. Fou...

namdc3

Don's recent for sale post showed that 5Z-1497 replaced 5Z-1170, indicating 5Z-1170 was pretty short lived. 5Z-1170 is depicted in the July 1926 Ford Service Bulletin, but does anyone know what 5Z-1497 looks like?

namdc3

I’ll take it

namdc3

Roger, that is probably the earlier 3-z-605 or 5-z-287, both for the T hub. Sometimes the numbers is on the inside cavity. In 1926 Ford came out with the heavier 5-z-1170 with center strike bolt.

namdc3

Allan, that’s a good observation about the hex vs octagon. They are Ford script, so not another make of car, but it’s possible that the script was licensed out.

KBurket, great photos. I don’t think mine has that foundry mark, but I will look again.

namdc3

Thanks, Mark. There seems to be comparatively a lot of 1172 pullers, but I have not come across any photos of 1170 pullers to compare this to. It was probably not as popular of tool since there were many other wood wheel hub pullers to choose from.

namdc3

Mark, is it Ford script, and does it have a Z number on it?

namdc3

July 1926 Ford Service Bulletin

namdc3

namdc3

Is this a 5-z-1170? I can’t find a part number on it, and the overall shape is a little different than in the image. That said, I’ve seen several variants of the 5-z-287, too. It is script and fits a T hub (not a 1171 TT puller). The center striker bolt matches the Ford image. If someone has one, is...

namdc3

20 inches. See image for details.

: Pump 2.JPG (22.29 KiB) Viewed 860 times

namdc3

Really nice collection!

namdc3

Thanks! I looked up the Model A brake rod end, and you’re right on that too.

namdc3

These were in an old can of T parts, but I can’t place them. If T related, where do they go? The bolts are 3/8” fine, and the rod end of sorts is 5/16” fine. Thanks!

namdc3

Thanks! Here's a cross-section of the improved Aeolus I thought someone might find handy someday. The Bridgeport No. 5 looks very, very similar, but I've noticed the top nut on the small tube side is hex on the No. 5 and knurled on the Improved Aeolus. I haven't found the factory number information ...

namdc3

Wow, great info! I have a couple follow up questions. When you say "began to appear in the parts books" do you mean Bridgeport or Ford books? I looked through all of the Ford parts books posted on Cimorelli, and the original Aeolus was shown in all of the ones I found up until May 1917. Then the pum...

namdc3

The Ford part list literature I've reviewed appears to show the older, I assume original, style of model Aeolus pump. This, I believe, is generally accepted. In the teens, at least as early as 1919, the "Improved Aeolus" appears in non-Ford literature. There is also mid-teens patent information. I b...

namdc3

The original A-C brochure I posted above shows that a yoke was used to equalize the rods. MOST A-C brakes used cables, just not all.

namdc3

I like Larry, but I also like to point this out every time he makes this generalized statement since he's such a stickler on doing your homework.

Steve, also attached is Daniel Bennett's contact information for current production.

namdc3

I’d take the brake lamp switch please

namdc3

Sold. Thank you.

namdc3

1926 1927 Ruckstell axel. I got it with other parts so I don’t know its history. It has the long shift lock and shifts like it should. I took the shift lock off and things look clean and oily inside. Comes with two wooden wheel hubs that were very tight on the axles. Keyways look good, but one side ...

namdc3

Back to the top

namdc3

Back to the top

namdc3

Sold and delivered. Thanks!

namdc3

Light Muncie - Gears look good with normal wear. Everything spins nice. Under-Direct-Over-Reverse. Roughly 1.78:1 U, 1:1 D, and 0.73:1 O. Were used in Ts and TTs. I don't have the couplers. $325 Heavy Case Muncie (painted one) - Gears look very, very good with exception of underdrive gear on lower s...

namdc3

Set of four wheels (30x3.5) and four hubs (2R, 2L) with caps in Model T size. Some might run them, but were it me I would re-rim all four. Two rims have pretty deep pits on the inside and marginally sharp spots. One rear hub has a small crack that could be repaired. I'm happy to answer any questions...

namdc3

If you could confirm that this old Etsy listing is not the same puller as yours, I think you’d prove half your point. It has the same jaw notches. The yoke appears to have the same casting glob patterns, though, so I was unsure if it was indeed a second puller of that style or the same one. https://...

namdc3

I don’t recall disagreeing. I agree that your puller is a perch pusher - either a factory variant of the more common styles or a modified steering wheel puller. I actually lean more toward factory variant. 437 is definitely not the tool number though. It is on steering wheel, perch, and I believe hu...

namdc3

I believe 437 to be the part number for the yoke, which is shared on at least two tools - the No. 8 perch pusher and No. 2 steering wheel puller.

namdc3

Ed, could you post a photo of your puller on a steering wheel? I have one that doesn’t seem to grip a wheel very well (cast or pressed steel). It certainly doesn’t fit like the one in this 1923 ad. Note that the one in the ad has straight drops, and mine and the one you pictured have a bend. 0604997...

namdc3

I’m sorry to hear that. What a nice gentleman.

namdc3

Thanks! That’s really helpful.

namdc3

Wow! Could you give us the two diameters and two lengths?

namdc3

Here’s the only one I found online, and it appears to have the reduced-diameter punch part broken off at right.

namdc3

Thanks, that’s interesting. The one in the catalog has a punch for the gear pin built in. Maybe they figured out this was a clumsy setup, or maybe yours lost its original too. My handle hole is 5/16”. There is a square dent like some locknuts have, presumably to create an interference fit for the pu...

namdc3

Thanks! It doesn’t look like there is a handle/punch in the one in the box either! Out of curiosity, what tool has the Hassler arm been turned into?

namdc3

I picked up this puller, which is missing the stand and handle/punch. Could anyone with a good one measure exact dimensions of the punch so that I get it right? Thank you.

namdc3

Thanks for the info. I think the 1915 model year began well before the 1914 model year ended for some body styles and assembly locations, so there were probably “1914” cars with “1915”carburetors. Those are interesting little design details on the running G changes.

namdc3

Thanks, Dan! I would guess the transition to the dated top plate happened before model year 1914 Model Ts ended production.

namdc3

Ford made 1914 model year cars until roughly April 1915. All the literature I’ve read just says that the Pat Pending top plate is 1914 and the Pat’d 1914 top plate is 1915. Would a late 1914 year model car have the patent dated carb with a black bowl? Does anyone know when the top plate and bowl swi...

namdc3

Just an fyi, some front arms use the longer bolt. So, if anyone decides to pick this project up, please consider making both lengths even though front Hasslers are more popular.

namdc3

Here’s an original A-C setup that uses rods. Note that it still uses an equalizer, which imho is better than rod setups that do not.

namdc3

Back to top

namdc3

To the top

namdc3

Regarding the short wire on the back side of the switch, the last two harnesses I’ve gotten have had that jumper made from a smaller gauge wire than originally intended. If no fuse is installed, that is then the weak link in the charging circuit, which in my opinion isn’t ideal. I’ve been making a n...

namdc3

Thanks to Jeff and Frank. My concern on WD-40 is that is won't last and it will attract dirt, etc. Frank, I'm surprised the bare magnets haven't surface rusted in a damp basement. Kansas City humidity would take its toll I think! Yes, Bob is definitely the meter guy! I have purchased from him before...

namdc3

In a car, all of the flywheel and magnet-mounting parts are bare and get continually coated with oil. The field coil ring is coated, but the coil post surfaces are bare. On an HCCT, it would be nice to protect these parts from any future corrosion. This got me to thinking, what surfaces and contact ...

namdc3

Ron, three of the 17-Z-803 testers above have the output on top, but #4 appears like it might have it on bottom (based on what looks to be a starter notch at bottom right and that I can't see an output block at the top). If true, this would also mean the rear casting that the field coil mounts to is...

namdc3

Then #4...Ron, these two photos came from you. Do you have a photo of the back of it? It seems like the starter notch may be on the lower right, and I can't make out an output terminal at the top of the ring. This indicates to me that the field coil may mount upside down like many other later tester...

namdc3

Thanks, Ron and Don! I'll post photos of the four 17-Z-803 testers that I have saved off of the forum. I have questions for Ron on one of them. Of course, there's Don's posted above. I'll call it #1. Then #2... 17-Z-803 2b.jpeg 17-Z-803 2a.jpeg Then #3... 17-Z-803 3a.jpg 17-Z-803 3b.jpg 17-Z-803 3c....

namdc3

namdc3

namdc3

I recently purchased this coil tester, and I thought others may want to see it and offer up any additional thoughts or details. I have more questions than answers, so I think I’ll just start with a list of some observations. • Similar to an 18-Z-245, the 17-Z-429 part numbers are cast onto the vario...

namdc3

Thanks! .

namdc3

I was wondering if anyone in the Detroit area could pick something up for me for delivery to Kansas City or Chickasha next year. Thanks.

namdc3

Still for sale.

namdc3

Hey, Tom. I'm sorry that I didn't see your original post. I didn't get a notification. I'd prefer not to ship it, so I'll likely drag it to Chickasha again next year.

Gary, no, I don't have the support of the couplers. Sorry.

namdc3

Thanks much!

namdc3

Does anyone know the name of the gentleman or business who was on the east wall of the south building at Chickasha selling rebuilt generators and starters in wooden boxes? I have a club member who may be in need of one. Thanks!

namdc3

Both Muncies available. Updated prices in first post.

namdc3

Back to the top

namdc3

Yes, Mike, thanks for the info! Kevin is going to shoot me some pics.

namdc3

Back to top

namdc3

Back to the top

namdc3

With Tulare and Luray coming up, I thought there might be some pickup options. I have decided to part with this set of four wheels (30x3.5) and four hubs (2R, 2L) with caps in Model T size. Some might run them, but were it me I would re-rim all four. Two rims have pretty deep pits on the inside and ...

namdc3

Happens!! How was it this year. Made it last year during peak gas, according to the regulars, it was smaller than normal. I was hoping the owner would see this and link up with you if still available. It was good! I don't know numbers, but the general feel was about the same as last year - I felt l...

namdc3

There was a set at Chickasha, but I don’t know the owner.

namdc3

Still on the hunt for an original set of A-Cs.

namdc3

It's always interesting to see the things you missed out on or just didn't see. Thanks for posting. "1/2 as big as it used to be" is still more than you can truly lay eyes on in 2-3 days. I wish people who can't justify it in their own minds wouldn't run it down for other folks. If you get out and h...

namdc3

Matthew, you purchased this trans from me, and I’ll offer up various theories set forth from others on this trans. The leading suspicion is that it is a car version that originally bolted to the rear end like normal but that has had the front housing from a TT version bolted to the rear of the car v...

namdc3

A great time as always. I sold a lot and bought a lot. I got a couple of Weaver Auto Twin Jacks, an original ruckstell shift link rod, part of a set of very early pre-beehive hasslers to hang on the wall, a Chicago Mark-E trans, an original metal battery box cover, etc, etc, etc. It’s also great to ...

namdc3

Awesome! I’m glad to hear that! It sure shifted nice, and I’m glad the gears look good! The Muncies haven’t sold, so if anyone is through Kansas City sometime and wants one or two, let me know.

namdc3

It's great for buying and selling big/heavy things that are difficult or expensive to ship! There is also plenty of eye candy, and it's all relevant to the hobby as opposed to most swap meets. Is it as big as it used to be? No. Is it more than you can lay eyes on in two days and truly see everything...

namdc3

One last pre-Chickasha college try

namdc3

To the top

namdc3

To the top

namdc3

Thanks, Steve. Those Lockwoods look like a good design, too, per our emails. It looks like they bias a little more forward braking but still have some self-energizing effect in reverse. Still in the market for original A-Cs if they surface!

namdc3

Sold pending payment. Thank you!

namdc3

still hoping

namdc3

Two Pasco wheels and two hubs with nuts but no caps. One wheel is missing one spoke. I'm happy to answer any questions I can. Pick up in Kansas City metro area or free delivery to Chickasha. $1000.

namdc3

While you're packing for Chickasha, check for spring numbers!

namdc3

This Himico accessory transmission made by Hinkley Motors replaces Ford's planetary gear transmission with a 3-speed+R sliding gear, lever shifted transmission and pan. It retains a rearward transmission drum brake and does not require shortening the drive shaft. This unit also has the optional auxi...

namdc3

namdc3

namdc3

namdc3

Light Muncie - Gears look good with normal wear. Everything spins nice. Under-Direct-Over-Reverse. Roughly 1.78:1 U, 1:1 D, and 0.73:1 O. Were used in Ts and TTs. I don't have the couplers. $350 Heavy Case Muncie (painted one) - Gears look very, very good with exception of underdrive gear on lower s...

namdc3

Weekend bump

namdc3

Still on the hunt

namdc3

namdc3

Thanks, Steve. I have a few with hints of color, but it’s hard telling what happened over the years. I’d like to get together enough stamped springs to characterize what is what from dimensional and spring rate perspectives - the idea being that that data could then be applied to non-stamped springs...

namdc3

I’d like to buy Hassler beehive springs that are stamped with their part number. Below are examples of a 39 and a 40 with the location of the stamped number circled in red. Can also pick up at Chickasha. Thanks.

Search found 301 matches