MTFCA Forum

When will the moderator delete this thread with these dirty topless models!?!

I saw this on ebay, watched the video, and thought the builder (your brother) had a lot of fun:)

Matt

Duey and Wayne,
Thanks for your response. Our cars have lived through a lot! I think what they saw in the late '20s and '30s would be informative.

But my purpose in the post is to hear how others find productive ways to move forward with the hobby despite the restrictions.

Matt

Note: I posted the following this morning. I saw that it was pulled and there was a notice on the General Discussion Forum a note from the administrator: "Stop posting anything but Model T related info here." So I am reposting here on the OT forum. I am not trying to pick a fight with anyone includ...

Well, well, well! I hope someone finds this entertaining. Things came to a halt on the weekend for me. The EMI burned out my Adruino last weekend. I bought some coils and a handful more boards.

Matt

Yes, Steve I am having the same issue with noise. I believe somewhere here Luke mention using ferrite bead on the wiring. Bravo John! That looks great! Is that An OLED or LCD display? Luke and everyone, I did order a larger 1.3 OLED, but it looks like I received the same display:( I took my tester t...

Added:

Erik,
Thanks for posting your kind words and memories. I met Roger when I was at your shop. If remember correctly he was using silicon to prepare for Babbitt.

May God grant you, your family and friends joy, hope and peace.

Matt

Steve, Yes, I have been planning to do it, but I have been busy. I will try to get it to you in the next few days. Matt Update: I am still working on it. Steve I sent you a draft. I am not sure if you saw it. In reality I have not got to the new functions so it is basically the same as the earlier v...

That is easy. That is a seat. And parts for a top for a open car.

Anyone know when these Townsend Automotive rods were made?

Matt

These could look nice with your speed parts display.

Let me know if there is any interest.

Thanks,

Matt

Let me know if there is any interest.

Matt

Up for sale are these four Townsend Automotive rods. 688CFB5D-90B5-4BCA-8A4A-1F8739A8CAF5.jpeg 7B92D6DA-414F-4B4F-B7E3-5F7DF0AF56DB.jpeg For more information on these vintage speed parts see: https://mtfca.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=9876&p=74112#p74112 $125 including shipping in the USA. Please ...

I have this with wind wing bracket up for sale:

$125 including shipping in the USA.

Please send me a message and we can arrange payment/shipping.

Matt

Wow! Thanks for all the information! This is definitely beyond my skill and tooling.

I will have to see where I can find a home for it.

Matt

I came across these and would love any insight that you may have.

Matt

John, I bought the display as a 0.96" 128x64, but even if you look at the pictures I think you can count and see it looks like a 128x32. (My understanding is these 0.96" come in both sizes.) I also switched to SCREEN_HEIGHT 64 and nothing displayed) Perhaps I made a mistake, either way please let me...

Someone contacted me regarding wiring up there own. Here are the parts that I am currently using: Solid State Relay- I am using the L298N motor driver with two inputs/outputs connected in parallel. (Luke is using BTS7960.) Current Sensor- I am using the ACS712-20Aamp chip/board. OLED- I am using the...

I look forward to hearing experiences of using a Megger on coils. Obviously we want to find bad coils before putting lots of work into them! I worked on the Oscilloscope a bit. I needed to adjust things, so that I could see issues with bad coils. Here is a coil with a double spark: AB1A748A-873E-432...

Here is the multi-fire test results:

Here is when I forced a misfire (just to verify the display):

Enjoy,
Matt

Yesterday I received this display and stayed up late making my $5 Oscilloscope (for the display only)! BE853994-2566-49A8-882A-8416E106AC42.jpeg Here is what I got on my Tektronixs real scope: E7104F35-CF4B-4F0D-8D98-2596504BB5AC.jpeg Here is what a good coil looks like on the 128x64 OLED display. 5...

Luke, Yes, the coils that I mentioned have secondaries that are completely open. What I am wondering is how that would happen. My best guess would be that they were left completely disconnected. I would image that is worse than shorting the output. I can see your concern with a Megger, but I image t...

Luke thanks for the update! John, I appreciate your insight! Here are my thoughts: Inductance tester - I use the Model T to teach basic mechanic/electrical systems. The more things I can teach with just a Model T coil the better in my opinion! I look forward to seeing the solutions for both the indu...

Luke, Please ignore my comments above. I confused the secondary resistance and the capacitor leakage resistance. I don't recall anyone having a concern with leakage resistance in the past. It took me a little while to understand how you were calculating the leakage resistance. I still don't have a 1...

Luke, Thanks for sharing your results. I like the concept of the display. I think I would prefer more digits on the resistance value, unless there is a limiting factor outside of hardware. Like Chris, I am with confused on your capacitance value. Here is what John Carter developed for simple multi-m...

I have commented in length in the past about ethanol taking the stance of in favor. Others against. At the end of the day or month as it was I think we agreed on the following: Over 70 degrees you can run a car on E-85. Under that it is very hard to start. (If you want you can read Hal Davis experie...

I know that people complain about ebay prices, but it is more straightforward. Not a bunch of going back and forth. Many times I have a buy-it-now so it is ready to be shipped when the first interested party clicks to buy it...

James, John & Luke, Thanks for your comments. I hadn't considered the leakage. I figured that just determining the value in a desired range, would confirm that the cap is likely okay. It would be good to see what Luke comes up with as a solution. I am just trying to figure out if leakage is a issue....

Luke, After reflecting and before seeing you response I understood your issue with doing the capacitor test AND connecting up with the MOSFET. I think the issue would be measuring w/o the Radio Frequency Interference destroying the chip when running with the MOSFET. I think we have two options: Buil...

Luke you said: However the really interesting thing was (thinking of Tom's enquiry) when I lowered the input voltage to the coils. What I noticed was that although the current went down (and thus energy out) the timing became less erratic. If I tried a coil at ~7V it may show a SD of 0.01 and a 0.31...

Luke, The BOM is very impressive. If we working as it seems to be, it is well worth it. I have on order the ACS712 & L298 boards. But for now I I played more with with the MCCT and the Current Transformer. The results are looking good, but I imagine with the MOSFET switching things it will look a lo...

Nikolaus, You are not alone in thinking you should match inductance. Tom Carnegie who has lots of experience with the Montana 500 said in another thread: There is a feeling that I cannot quite shake when testing coils using the time-to-fire method. I have been setting up my coils this way (using an ...

Could I make a small request? I always appreciate spirited discussions with various opinions and points of view. I believe that our differences on this forum make all of us better informed. I don't want that to stop! But I would like to request that we avoid personal attacks (i.e. comments and put ...

Luke, I wanted to confirm the latest Bill of Materials (BOM): Price part # Description $8 ATmega16U2 ARDUINO UNO R3 Development Board & USB Cable $2-5 ACS712 Current Sensor Module (20A?) for Arduino $3 L298N DC Stepper Motor Driver Module $3-5 ??? LCD Module for Arduino [/size][/b] All prices are fr...

Luke,
I am trying to calculate the the period of each firing time. When I plug the numbers in, I get around 50 minus 4. I assume that the delay is in milliseconds. Have you verified your period on a oscilloscope? Please confirm that actual period.

Thanks!

Matt

I started this topic back in April. Here is my personal ranking after researching and hearing feedback from others. Model T Coil Testers Rankings.PNG I personally feel the ECCT seems to be a great device and the best on the market. Early on a gentleman using one told me his story. He said most peopl...

I had someone recently ask about how to make a Motor Controlled Coil Tester. I though this thread outlined how to make MCCT, but realized I that I could better illustrate it. Here is the simple design used for the Motor Crank Coil Tester (MCCT): MCCT Design.PNG Simply put the MCCT is a Ford coil tri...

My wife took a glance at this and said, "That looks like the technical side of the Model T forum..." In case you get lost in the discussion. The current is not a sine wave, but looks like this: https://masteringelectronicsdesign.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/05/triangle-waveform-1.png The details can ...

Luke: Today I repeated some of my earlier experiments, but this time with the tester involved. I include an image from my 'scope below for one of the tests. I used the two coils I have (thanks Chris!) and in both cases the 'time to fire' reported by the tester exactly matched that displayed by the ...

Luke, Here is my code. The set-up is basically the same as yours. Here are the differences: Coil is not triggered from micro controller, I am using the MCCT, but a HCCT or car could be used. The code triggers from current when coil is switched on. Option of two display modes by grounding either pin ...

I havn't posted on the MCCT since June. In reality I didn't do much more on the hardware. It does the job, but has room for improvement. I developed the following manual as a draft, but stalled on the final version since June. You will see that this document is based on the works of others whom I ap...

Hi Luke, Have had some success, in the serial screen max current displayed but start of decay, total to fire and decay time all read zero. I am sure its something silly and have spent some time trying to work out what! Any ideas? John, Have you looked at the raw data and verified the test for each ...

Thanks everyone for all the input! Following the theme. The last time I was in a basic electronics course was Fall 2019! The final was the same week Luke made his first post on this thread! I never worked with current transformers, so I decided to look at things a bit. I figured that I should look a...

Luke, It took me some time to figure out what we have here. The current transformer is intended to measure a changing current (i.e. AC). The reality is that as we switch on the power to a coil the inductor resists the current flow and slowly allows full current to flow. When the current is constant ...

Herb,
I have one. I am just a few hours from you.

Let’s talk!

Matt

I received the current transformers in the mail 5 (qty) for $10. FB8A5DE8-0FF5-4CB1-8E8D-1A541406745E.jpeg Here is my setup: 6FE4C1BE-2A06-46DC-A54D-EE79CEE43CD5.jpeg I decided to connect it with my MCCT (Motor Control Coil Tester: DAEDBC3F-9104-4A12-8691-D927F902CD48.jpeg I used the MCCT because I ...

Luke, Thanks for posting your results. I think there are two reasons that a less than smooth current curve comes up: cushion spring not working, contacts dirty/pitted. But I think your goal at the moment is not to fix the problem, but rather compare one coil to another. I have done more testing with...

Wow! Luke that is a great improvement on the code displayed!

Do you have the specifications the part number on the current transformer. Maybe you listed it, but I can't seem to find it.

Thanks!

Matt

Luke, Thanks for your response! Now that I got the monitor open I can see the data. I know that you mention using the Python Script. I havn't figured that out yet. (I have zero experience with Python- except for the pet snake that my brother got and put in a bucket... it got out and we found it keep...

Luke, I found among my electronics an Ardrino Kit that was given to me with other electronics. A9625791-D6A4-4283-9922-380DB5642C8D.jpeg Though I have worked with microcontrollers, I have never worked with Ardrinos. But with your code and the fact I really have no excuse with the hardware in front o...

Thanks! That seems to be it.

Wow! People would die if they depended on my memory! Here are the type of photos I remember:
http://www.azbackcountryadventures.com/cloud.htm
http://cloudmuseum.dynamitedave.com/pictures.html

Matt

Okay, I spent the last hour trying to figure out where there are pictures of a car lot of Model Ts near San Diego California. The cars are all outside, but basically complete.

Who knows what I am talking about? I would love to rediscover the photos.

Matt

Luke, Thanks for posting your detailed update. I have done some research and there was articles that I missed. The surprise for me is that you don't mention any need for special electronic shielding of the electronics. I know every time I use a digital volt meter around my T it goes crazy so I find ...

Luke, Earlier this year, I developed a Motor Controlled Coil Tester (MCCT). https://www.mtfca.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=3153 It works fine, but I didn't continue the development as I focused my spare time on other T projects. Here are some of the learning points for me: Buy a set of rebuilt coils w...

Anyone know what this went to?
Matt

Dan, Thanks for posting the photos. It seems like the eBay brochure provides lots of important information for the 11 hour Model T production. I agree the this would be ample evidence that Ford sold the 1927 models with pin striping as stated in the brochure: "All colors are attractively accentuated...

Dan, Thanks for posting those photos! I agree it is fun to see the colorized Ford. Your brochure is clearly different than the one on eBay as the photos don't match the colors I mentioned above. If anyone has a brochure like the one on eBay please post higher quality photos. The following is in the ...

I found this interesting example of advertising from Ford: https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F383300335299 Note it shows the following: Fordor: Green Tudor: Gray Coupe: Maroon Touring: Green (or perhaps Blue) Roadster: Brown If you were a dealer and want...

I am sure back in the day a mechanic would be fired if they couldn't do it:) But I would say that it is some work. I have removed and replaced the hogshead on a couple of engines. The two most recent I had the leak between the felt seal and the pan. Good to see that I am not the only one:) Also a go...

Thanks all for your thoughts. I don't really know much about model Ts and feel like I learn something everyday. Bruces Encyclopedia on the MTFCA for the 1926-1927 improved models ( https://www.mtfca.com/encyclo/1926-27H.htm ) states a lot about the colors including: " COLORS After the initial announ...

Any offers?

As Jim Joseph Andulics stated earlier on this thread. From the same encyclopedia. Pictured is my "original" 26 Fordor. COLORS: All cars were painted black, with black fenders, initially. Closed cars were then offered in colors: green for the Tudor and Coupe, and Maroon for the Fordor. Other options ...

I am posting the following photos for TBill (these are NOT photos of my car). Bill wants us to comment on them and the possibility that it is original paint. Under Cowl 356D90D9-AFA7-4681-8125-C6C50A5ED56F.jpeg Cowl 7F36BC2D-BDD1-480C-A7ED-5786D325EA2D.jpeg Back B9AADBFE-6318-4F04-8C77-EB6D374212DC....

Barbara, I sent you an email message. But I wanted to say the following publicly: My condolences for your husbands passing. I never meet him nor have I done business with him, but it is clear that he made a significant contribution to the hobby. And it is clear that you had a major hand in helping h...

Bill, I am always open to learning new things on the forum. And I think that sometime we find details on our cars that don't match the norm or period references. But I think you may have to really do some uncovering to prove that your paint was not done for restoration. Please post some photos of yo...

I appreciate all the help! You never know what you will find in a pile of T parts! It takes a bunch of T nuts to know what every thing is.

Here is something else that I could not identify.
It is some sort of panel with a light.

Matt

Bill, Mine clearly has the red painted over the black. The photos can be deceptive because the black is in the high spots and the red in the valleys, but this is because the black paint degraded then the red paint stuck to the surfaces in the valleys. The cars with original red should be “Windsor Ma...

Mike,
I am watching this. I am trying to think of the offer I could give you (not seriously thought). I have the engine for it, I can get the fenders:) Too bad we are not next door neighbors:)

Matt

Barbara, Thanks so much for offering these to the club members. Leon has been such a gift to the hobby and helped, so many get there cars back on the road. I am sure many who don't take up this project may regret it in the future. You are a long drive from my home, so I am waiting to see who will re...

Wow! I give thanks to MTFCA! Ray thanks so much! The transmission that I have is marked “f0” so I believe it is from mid 1940. As far as value I found one in similar condition from1941 that sold for $800 on eBay: https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F163948...

Here is a small transmission.

Is it worth finding a home for these?

Thanks!

Matt

I always like to find new homes for stuff that I acquire with my T parts. Can anyone ID any of these. I can post new photos if needed. 18A0E394-E45E-4E38-B92E-9EF94C316BC5.jpeg ED7C212D-B4D7-42C0-BC93-AFAC59FB1A4F.jpeg 8A14E6B4-4B4A-4B46-AEF6-1C0C9616303A.jpeg DA1A954F-1C66-47B6-8A38-4E36C6B8CE8A.jp...

I got this with the body: 0CA606DF-E146-45A7-8238-D3800B122A49.jpeg 3EA202E1-180B-4F08-B56B-7F4AA120D640.jpeg This body came from Maine. Anyone recognize the business on the front side of the card or the upholstery person on the backside of the card? I’m not sure when this card was received it might...

Dallas Landers wrote: ↑
Sun Nov 17, 2019 9:15 pm
Dont worry, it the extended cab! Very rare?

Wow! You are correct!

... But unless you've got a speed worm in that rear end, you might as well kept the T's standard chassis. Martynn, I am not into speed. I care about torque:) Actually this is my answer to the following scenario: I bought a TT chassis because I have parts to put together a dump truck. Then I bought ...

Martynn, Wow always learning something new on the forum. I believe that I have a Tudor tank in my touring. All I can say is that I got it to fit. I haven’t tried my Fordor body out. I will see if it it too tight. Here is my solution to dealing with the heavy Fordor body;) FB74968D-74D2-4814-BF57-5E3...

I put it on the chassis, but it doesn’t seem to fit.

Maybe the body shrunk because it was taken off a chassis about 40 years ago.

Matt

Martynn, Your work is always appreciated! I was just thinking the same thing about the gad tank today as I was working on my Fordor. My conclusion is that it was the lowest selling model. They didn't even redesign it from the earlier Fordor, only changed the cowl to fit the 1926-7 hood. I wonder if ...

Thanks Kieth and Rich, I think I need to get some better photos. It may look better in person. From 10 feet it is hard to detect. I left the brake fluid on too long on the section under the doors on the left side and I did pull of the paint. I am glad that it is less noticeable. But Kieth's word of ...

Kieth, Thanks for your advice! I just read your post after work on this for four hours. Not only do I want to look into the stripper. I wanna look into the methods that you mentioned. I didn’t use steel wall but I did use a toothbrush, an old sponge, a rag and lots of paper towels! Here are the resu...

I did some testing with brake fluid to remove the red paint that was added. I started in the area that wouldn’t be is visible- the center post. Now I plan to tackle the back! B791B27D-1A85-420B-B502-2C54CCA30C3B.jpeg It is shiny because I applied brake fluid last night. And I just put a second coat ...

Rich, Yes, I am hoping that these details will be helpful for future restorers who may come across this tread. Joseph, If the engine number is correct that was with this body it would be April 1st 1926, so it looks like black Fordors were produced into July 1926. Matt, In your picture above with the...

Front Floor Boards:

Note: the number above. Does anyone know what this is for?

Rear floorboards:

Rear side windows: 21775694-9A77-4702-AE14-C2CA2DEEB31B.jpeg D98492D6-54CF-4A3F-AA2B-80F03E793F41.jpeg The little aluminum will above gave me trouble, but after I got it spinning it worked well. 65371656-B7AF-4C2C-A26D-98D73E2931EA.jpeg 79B4FB59-11ED-4300-B899-D5137B467C93.jpeg BFB58002-E845-4A07-85...

Back seats:

Under back seats:

Under and the sides of the front seats:

Note: center strap bent, likely to remove gas tank.

Here are some photos of my front seats.

From the same encyclopedia. Pictured is my "original" 26 Fordor. COLORS: All cars were painted black, with black fenders, initially. . . Joseph, I love your photo! The last word of the quote above seems very important to this discussion- initially. What is your engine number or date of manufacture ...

Martynn,
Now that I am a '26 Fordor owner (viewtopic.php?f=2&t=8061), I really appreciate your work on this!

Matt

Robert,
I sent you a message.

Matt

Kim,
If I got this body it could join my recent Fordor body that I got: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=8061
Then I would have three body styles for one year.

Matt

I found this in one of the door pockets.

Does anyone know what these are?

Thanks,
Matt

Mark Gregush, Regarding your earlier comment: I thought that was illegal since Boyd Coddington was convicted of selling vintage cars made up of mostly new parts. From Wikipedia : In his later days, he began registering cars that were essentially completely custom fabrications as antique automobiles,...

Perhaps we just need a handful of terms to describe each type of Model T. Here is a start: Restored Model T: To be 100% restored each part must be brought back to original condition. New replacement parts can be used if not detectable in inspection. Safety items may or may be acceptable depending on...

Mark, I hear you. All I need to do is find a rear axle, engine and front end an then use a pile of money to buy new sheet metal, a wood kit and upholstery... If you think of it how original is even paint and upholstery. I think things are changing from the 1960s-1970s where people went for the most ...

Color Thanks for all the input on the Fordor color. For mine it is very clear that the car was originally black. I didn’t think much of it, then I noticed in Bruce McCalley’s book he mentions in 1926 Fordor should be “Windsor Maroon.” I wonder how many made it out with that color. Floor Boards Arni...

Search found 348 matches