MTFCA Forum

Larry made me a great deal on a pair of plates and restored them for his normal $90/pair. He's a very nice man and did a nice job on a factory-looking restoration. Thanks, Rich, for recommending him. I turned in the CO YOM application with the supporting documents you recommended. Before: image.jpg ...

Great thread. I wish all engines were as easy to manhandle as a T. I spent the evening fighting a 1956 322 nailhead Buick engine away from its longtime companion Dynaflow transmission, onto the engine stand, and tearing down the top end. The photo of your T engine being dismantled on the floor made ...

As to the rear-end grease mentioned in the OP - I know that the poster was joking, but in about 1964 a guy pulled into our gas station and said that the engine in his 1950 Plymouth was knocking and he wanted us to put three quarts of 90 gear oil in it's engine. We told him that most of the Chrysler...

I found on our car when attempting to chase the petcock threads with a new 1/8 pipe tap, that the tap would bottom out against the flywheel before enlarging the threads in the pan. The tap length needed to be shortened to work. Good point. I've found MAC brand NPT taps to be stubbier than others, b...

A nice looking car except, I would rather see black fenders and all the other red parts painted black. Looks like a straight body. The extra heavy oil might make the knocks quieter, however it will not flow down the oil tube very well and may actually hinder the lubrication rather than help it. I t...

A few things not yet covered you might consider: 1) I wouldn't have used JB weld around the petcock after installing it. JB weld isn't a sealant in this way and only makes things messier looking and will likely chip off if you ever turn the petcock. Unless JB weld is sandwiched between two pieces (s...

I picked up a 1926 Roadster from New Mexico two weekends ago and have it squared away for the time being. The body is something close to a Ford cloud mist gray, which I like, but the fenders, (insert vomiting emoji here). Burgundy might have been okay, but Ford red isn't doing it for me. The body is...

Rich, Thanks for all the info and contact for a restorer. I definitely appreciate the info on sending all the documentation to DMV since the form is sparse in details on such thing.

WayneJ wrote: ↑

Sun Jun 28, 2020 3:04 pm

Perhaps if you contact the promoter of the swap meet, they may be able to put you in touch with the vendor in question. If you haven't already, you may wish to place a "Want to Buy" ad in the MTCA Forum classified section.

Already contact them; no dice.

If you want to use the plates, check the number with DMV to be sure it's clear before you buy. No need and difficulty to do anyway. Neither CO DMV nor my local police will run a plate number for a general public inquiry. No company that I know of reproduces 1926 Colorado plates with raised letters/...

I searched the forum and the vintage license plate thread to no avail. Does anyone have a line on a vintage license plate vendor, preferably one who might have Colorado plates? I'm looking for a pair of 1926 passenger plates for a roadster I recently purchased. I ran across a gentleman at the Tri St...

Thanks for the link and info, Mike. It's good to know there are others near me.

Thanks for the warm welcome. Here's a photo.

I wanted to introduce myself being new to the forum although a long-time reader. I have a 1927 coupe I'm almost finished restoring and will be looking for a 26/27 roadster restoration project in the future. Glad to be on the forum.