MTFCA Forum

modeltbarn

Sleeve if the crank is worn. I used a little loctite to hold it in place. Sorry, I don't recall the specific loctite I used... it wasn't thread lock, it was for holding items that were supposed to be a press tight fit but weren't. Take a look at their website, you'll find a few options, many are ava...

modeltbarn

I agree with Kerry, that looks like the distance plate in the picture, not a clutch disc. I have had an interference problem with removable bands. It's been some years, I know I was able to correct it with a little careful grinding. I'm thinking it was on the removable ear itself, it may have been o...

modeltbarn

I have about 30 years of these, 1969 to 1979 all, most from then to the mid 90's, a few recent years. I'd prefer someone pick these up so I don't have to ship them.... If I need to ship I'd like actual cost plus $20 to cover the trips and time.

Email is best!!

modeltbarn

Just sent in my deposit.

Larry; We'll be going down the hill, it's an awesome view!!

You've just gotta take it slow and have external brakes.

modeltbarn

Awesome, I missed this last year!

Deposit sent!!

modeltbarn

That link is a '15 horn without the 90 degree elbow. It does have the '15 mount. Here's a link to a correct early horn. https://www.ebay.com/itm/MODEL-T-FORD-1909-12-BRASS-BULB-HORN-COMPLETE/202612480126?_trkparms=aid%3D888008%26algo%3DDISC.CARDS%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D20190920090938%26meid%3D597d52435099...

modeltbarn

I have a few of the KC Warford brackets available now.

modeltbarn

Yup, everything you need to install it is included.

modeltbarn

I'm making up another batch of Warford support brackets. These are for the KC Warford, but they will work for the original case aluminum Warford as well. There is a small difference in hole placement, so if I know it's for an original case I can drill it accordingly and save you a little filing. I ...

modeltbarn

I had a 4 dip with a cracked nose, and a narrow nose with a trashed transmission area. I wanted an easier way to reach the 4th main and have a narrow nose for appearance, so I put one together.

modeltbarn

Hi Martynn

I'm not sure when the change to this one was, but the tank on my '11 is on the passenger's side and permanently attached. It's an August '11 car.

modeltbarn

An '11 column is shorter, so you can't just buy the 5:1 kit because the shaft will be too long.

modeltbarn

Looks like 13/14

modeltbarn

I've contacted Festenall a few times in the past for shipping from CA, without success. I'm not sure why. If you have better luck with them I am willing to; there is a location in Oxnard, CA 93030. Media Rate USPS is pretty reasonable for price, I think I can get a couple of heavy duty boxes and shi...

modeltbarn

I am trying to complete me set. If you have any of the following you can part with please let me know. 1975 Vol. 10 6 1987 Vol. 22 4 1988 Vol. 23 2,4,5 1989 Vol. 24 5 1990 Vol. 25 1 1991 Vol. 26 3,4,5,6 1992 Vol. 27 2,3,4,5 1993 Vol. 28 4,5,6 1994 Vol. 29 5,6 1995 Vol. 30 4 1999 Vol. 34 5 2005 Vol. ...

modeltbarn

I pulled the copies I could use from the 'stash' I picked up from Chris, and I will pass on the rest to whomever can use them. You can have these for the cost of shipping and any materials I need to buy (they are in banker's boxes, I'll need to re-box them to ship) Here's what is left: 1975 Vol. 10 ...

modeltbarn

It looks like the 'hydromatic' hard lining we used in the late 60s-early 70s. I don't know if I spelled that correctly, but it sounds correct.

modeltbarn

Make sure the valve ores are tight.

Use the metal caps that have a small rubber seal inside them, not the cheap plastic ones.

modeltbarn

Concerning your compression check.... This may have been mentioned, I only skimmed the thread because it's gotten long. The vendors sell adapters to use modern plugs in a stock head; all you need is one of those, and you can use your compression gauge. They may only come in a set of four; share them...

modeltbarn

Hi Chris

I am missing many of these. Would it be OK to pick them all up and go through them to complete my set? I'm in Camarillo. I can pick them up early tomorrow (Sunday) or early Monday morning.

modeltbarn

Can anyone post pictures of an original bracket for a cast iron Warford? Maybe some of one installed? I've got some time to work on this, and it sounds like a good project. I just don't have a cast iron case Warford or bracket. Are there different bracket styles? Are there different case styles? The...

modeltbarn

I'm here, I've just been swamped with retirement stuff, too little time! The brackets I make are made to fit the aluminum KC Warford, and with a slight change in the drilling they will fit an original aluminum case Warford. I've got a couple of those made up that fit cars, and one or two made up for...

modeltbarn

Fuel Gauge?

modeltbarn

I have 5 HVLP and one RP, 3 are Sata, 2 are Devilbiss. The last gun I bought was a Devilbiss Finishline FLG-4; I bought the kit. My intent was to use this for the PPG sealer I was shooting, then use the Sata RP for the color. I liked the Devilbiss so much I used it for everything, and it's my 'go to...

modeltbarn

I had a similar issue... it turned out the nut holding the mag wire at the top of the terminal was loose and when running the car vibrated enough that it touched the block and shorted out the mag. It was a very simple loose connection.

modeltbarn

I've finally found a Model 78 tail light, but it needs some attention..... I'm hoping someone here is more familiar with the details early tail lights than I am!! I need to install a round red lens into the rear panel of an early Jno Brown tail light (Model 78), and a blue lens on the side panel. 1...

modeltbarn

Looks like a perfect Christmas present for me!!

email sent.....

modeltbarn

Hi Kim

I would like the 78 light

Gary London

modeltbarn

I use a rubber O ring under my cap. You can take your cap into any hardware store and find one that will fit, and they're cheap.

modeltbarn

Thanks Keith!

modeltbarn

Is your MIG 110 or 220? Either will work but the 220 is hotter and you will get better penetration. The thing about home MIG welding is it is basically a 'cold' weld process known as 'short circuit', so it's difficult to get a good structural weld. It's easy to make it look good it takes skill to ma...

modeltbarn

Hi Pat

I'm the one buying the column, and the check is going out in the morning.

modeltbarn

Use a thinner shim, or only go 1/2 way around!

modeltbarn

If the Ford script bothers you you can easily weld it and flap disk it, or fill it with body filler.

modeltbarn

For the interim it's easy and effective to make a shim for the pulley out of a strip of a coke or beer can... I did this on a tour and it has worked great for years for me!

modeltbarn

Bob;

If Bill doesn't buy it I will.

modeltbarn

Is that Mike's?

modeltbarn

Hi Mike

i just sent you an email. I'll be home tomorrow evening, and I'll be driving from about noon to 6pm your time. Give me a call when you have a chance, I've got everything together.

modeltbarn

Dan

I have a set of these at home that I am not using. I'll be home tomorrow evening. If you send me your email pr phone I can contact you tomorrow. I listed these for sale awhile ago for well under the list cost because I don't have an engine to use them in.

Gary London

modeltbarn

There's a vey good chance you will find additional items to replace, no matter what your list..... i certainly wouldn't buy a bearing and thrust plate before opening it up, that's a lot of cash you may not need, but you won't know what you do need until you examine everything. You may need thrust wa...

modeltbarn

modeltbarn

I have found cracked drums in transmissions that I have torn down but never had one crack in a car I was driving.

I'm trying Kevlar bands now (first time) but they are with a new set of drums. I don't expect any issues.

modeltbarn

Proper size and installation of the rivet are very important on any rivet, but the other thing on the low speed pedal is the internal notch and cam. If they are worn excessively they can make it much harder to press the pedal, resulting in more force against the rivet. Pull the hogshead, change the ...

modeltbarn

Remeber you can paint enamel over lacquer but not lacquer over enamel, so only use enamel paint. Alsoif you use a marker then try to paint later you may have problems, you'll need to clean all of the 'non paint' repairs off first. Also sometimes there are issues with Rustoleum and other paints, even...

modeltbarn

I misunderstood Dallas, I thought you needed the ring for the DoRay light!

modeltbarn

Dallas; You might want to take Dave up on the lens 'just in case'. I've thought about getting one of the modern Beehive lamps just to have the ring as a spare. I think they're the same size. Dave; The picture Dallas posted is my car, I added the lamps a couple of weeks ago. If you have a spare glass...

modeltbarn

I used the torn match paint brush trick a few days ago! Just get a can of decent quality black enamel spray paint, shoot some into a small container that's metal ( you can cut the bottm coule of inches off a beer or soda can), shoot some paint into the can and you're good to go! The house brand blac...

modeltbarn

The magneto is AC so I dont think it matters which goes to the mag post.

modeltbarn

I'm in!

modeltbarn

OK, another post on the parts.... I'd like the frame too, and will pass on the windshield. Gotta save somewhere!

Gary

modeltbarn

Hi Mike.

I sent you a couple of emails about the windshield, rear fenders, running boards, and side lamp brackets.

Gary London

modeltbarn

Larry;

You gotta fix those oil leaks, it makes cleaning the under-carriage is a whole lot easier. It also helps not to wait for two tours!

modeltbarn

Hmmm...... I outta look and see if there was an increase, I just always pay the bill and don't compare... I don't think it increased much, it didn't stand out, but now I'll check. Last year I had a 'self inflicted wound' on my '11; I winched it into the trailer with the top up, just like I used to w...

modeltbarn

I have repop support rods on my car now. I'd like to find a pair of original rods, or even just the top brass castings that go at the windshield hinges. I think someone used to cast these but I'm not sure who it was. Rough castings would be fine. Here is a picture of the end I'm looking for. I canno...

modeltbarn

This is the switch I used, and the lamps.

modeltbarn

I installed my replacement engine block and turn signals. This engine block replaced the '14 block with the leak I couldn't stop. The turn signals use NOS Do-Ray 1129 clearance lights with heavy amber glass lenses and a good Yankee 960 turn signal switch. I like these a lot more than the plastic bee...

modeltbarn

It's a bayonet style bulb (pin).

modeltbarn

Thanks Tim!!

modeltbarn

Does anybody know what bulb is used for the pilot lamp on a Yankee 960 turn signal switch? This is for 6V. It's a smaller base than BA15s but I don't know if it's a BA9s or something different. I think Yankee and Signal Stat would be the same, I'm just not familiar with them.

Thanks!

modeltbarn

I'm not trying to hijack the thread here, but since the SCAT rods were mentioned.....

I have a set of the SCAT rods made for babbit still new in the box, I don't have an engine to put them in. I'd sell them if you are interested.

modeltbarn

It looks like the inlet that bolts to the block would be high, compared to the head, if it was not bolted to the head and the hose was connected to the radiator and everything else was in place, is that correct? When did you buy the radiator and what vendor did you buy it from? I had a similar issue...

modeltbarn

Mike;

I've found the plates that mount on the door, I haven't found the handle yet. I haven't forgotten, just haven't found it yet. I don't think I've loaned it out or passed it on. I will keep looking.

modeltbarn

You can also use a large box end wrench and bend it cold. I did it last week on mine after replacing the engine.

modeltbarn

Mike; The picture you posted is of a 1911 car door and handle. Are the ones you are looking for the same as these? 1911 doors latch in the front and are hinged in the back. 1912 doors are hinged in the front and the latch is in the back. I'm traveling right now but I'm pretty sure I have a repop and...

modeltbarn

Are these the same or different from 1911 handles?

modeltbarn

Take a look at the end of your cam and see if there is a hole drilled all the way through, or if the hole only goes part way. If it only goes part way through it's easy, just slip the rotor on, insert the pin at the point of indentation on the edge of the rotor and into the hole in the cam, slide th...

modeltbarn

Thank you Dan! That's exactly what I was looking for! I plan on using these for turn signals and prefer to stay 6v. I would consider LED replacement bulbs but have heard finding 6v LEDs can be a problem, and that you need to use a solid state flasher and that too can be a problem. I am using this on...

modeltbarn

Does anybody know what 6v bulb the old Do-Ray clearance lights used? These are sort of a beehive style light. Also what would be a 12v with the same base?

modeltbarn

Hi Wayne My goal is to have the caps that are with the block now remain with it because all of the babbit is new and was fit to a standard size crank, so it could be re-bored for an under-size crank. It's a shame to waste a new babbit job. I want to have a set of main caps and bolts so I can use the...

modeltbarn

Wayne; In August I can get it to Davis. Do you have a good set of main bearing caps and bolts to swap out? The babbit in this is almost new, it was done by Antique Engine Bearing Service in Escondido. You could mail me the caps to swap out and I can drop this in Davis. I'll only be there one day, I ...

modeltbarn

I've got a 1914 engine block that was machined at the manifold ports and the metal was cut thin, resulting in a leak. A repair attempt was made before I assembled the engine and I thought it was good but it wasn't.... by the time I found that out the engine was in the car and running. Another attemp...

modeltbarn

It's the rear hose shoe, not the front one...... there's lots of clearance for the front one, I finished my engine up the other day and went through that. Just use a 1" long 5/16" bolt, cut the head off, put it in the center rear horseshoe hole, weld it, then grind the horseshoe as needed. I'ts real...

modeltbarn

How about $250 plus shipping? Low heads without Made in USA are hard to find, and on an early car it looks a lot 'closer' than a common low head.

modeltbarn

The crankshaft is sold.

modeltbarn

This is a Dubats crankshaft with less than 100 miles run on it. I rebuilt an engine using this crankshaft late last year. The block had a thin water jacket from a poor machining job on the manifold surface that started to leak shortly after putting it in service. I gave up trying to fix it in the ca...

modeltbarn

No priming plugs

modeltbarn

I am not sure, I've never seen anything definitively documented. This was on my late '11 and I ran it for years, it looked much better on the early car than the later low heads with Made in USA on them. I removed it when I found one that matched Gail's pictures for an '11 with the specific casting m...

modeltbarn

This is a low head without the Made in USA script, removed from a running engine. These are hard to find.

There is a small area brazed on the very rear edge and one bolt hole looks like it has been enlarged slightly; this did not cause me any trouble. $300 plus shipping

modeltbarn

I read it. While it wasn't just a chronicle of his trip in the T, (meaning nothing like Three Peddles Down Main Street), it did include quite a bit of historical information that was related to the T and Henry Ford. I enjoyed reading about the troubles he had and the people that helped repair them, ...

modeltbarn

Sold to Mike, pending funds.

modeltbarn

Thimbles are going to John, Thanks!!

The ball socket and main cap are still available.

modeltbarn

This is sold pending funds!

modeltbarn

Spoke jack and switch are going to Henry!

modeltbarn

Jay;

I will hold the caps for you, please send me an email or call.

modeltbarn

I'm sorry for the delay in updating this, I've had two phone calls and three emails. It is sold pending funds.

modeltbarn

This is a brand new set of SCAT connecting rods. The set is new in box, balanced and are for a standard crankshaft. These use a free floating wrist pin, not the standard T clamp. You can use standard pistons with the teflon wrist pin buttons that Lang's sells, or pistons that Egge supplies. I don't ...

modeltbarn

There are three cables. All are steel, and they are all flexible and in nice shape, not broken. Measurements are approximate and close. They all look to be the Stewart style but not all of the ends are marked. The ones with links have slight different ends on the speedometer head end, but the drive ...

modeltbarn

There are 5 of the Brass Valve stem Dust covers for rubber tubes; asking $75 NOS Double light switch. This is like the 1915 headlight switch, but has 2 switches. NOS, $75 A pair of repop 1915 headlight thimbles, new, $50 (These are $44 each at the vendors) Spoke jack, adjusts 5 3/4" to 8 3/4"; $75 N...

modeltbarn

This is a box of 9v 21CP double contact, single filament Magneto Headlight bulbs. There are 7 bulbs in the box. The top of the box is loose bot there; this would be fine in a display or you can use the bulbs. The bulbs are 'Daylight Blue'! $90 plus shipping.

modeltbarn

This is one of the repop ball bearing fans sold by the vendors. The front flange of the hub was distorted when it was riveted but the blades appear tight and see no reason it wouldn't operate fine. Please feel free to ask questions, send me an email or PM. These are $200 at Lang's right now, I'd lik...

modeltbarn

I know this is right around 1914-15 but don't know the exact years. The latch is passenger side rear and works fine. $45 plus shipping.

modeltbarn

This a Yale Auto Lock with two original keys and twp repop keys. Works great. The picture isn't great.... it's not damaged, rusted up or pitted, just old original paint and a crappy picture. $40 plus shipping.

modeltbarn

Cutout setup for an Aermore whistle. $75 plus shipping.

modeltbarn

I'll be in C-53

modeltbarn

I will have a few Warford rear support brackets for T's and TTs at Bakersfield. I will also have a couple nice B-size Prestolite running-board cylinders and recharged sets of magnets. Spot C-53

modeltbarn

These are for the K.C Warford but can be used for an original aluminum case Warford as well. This bracket does not require any drilling of the frame! It's a simple, bolt-on installation that helps support the rear of the Warford so the entire weight isn't hanging off the rear of the pan. I can also ...

modeltbarn

I've been working on these for a few weeks, and it's coming together well. My neighbor made an awesome drilling guide on a scrap piece of 1/2" thick aluminum using CNC equipment; it has the 10 locating pin holes, as well as 5 holes I can use to mark the center reference lines and two for the tail sh...

modeltbarn

The radiator is sold.

modeltbarn

Lowering to $750. These are ready to install.

modeltbarn

Lowering to $800.

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