MTFCA Forum

Allan

The H lens clips are wider and more complicated in shape. They have to stop the lens rotating within the rim.
I have made a couple out of sheet brass and soldered them in place on some 26-7 brass rims. Fiddly work but worth the effort on a good rim.

Allan from down under.

Allan

looks like it is held in place by using the inner bolts that bolt the running board and the fender in place. Neat work, requiring no new holes. Extra support/stability could be had by extending the lower mounting base to utilise the outer bolts also, again drilling no new holes. It sure beats making...

Allan

There is a serous problem, which will require serious work. Diagnosis/speculation of the cause prior to the needed work will not negate the need for that work.

Allan from down under.

Allan

Not only is the ball in good shape, but it looks to have the short arms on the yoke forging. That makes it earlier than 1917 as far as I know, so the other end should be for an over axle spring perch.

Allan from down under.

Allan

My son used a con rod from a 289/302 Ford V8 to link the shocker to the back axle. The rod was cut short and an eye welded to that, the rod clamping around the axle tube.

The same thing works to make a truss rod for the rear axle assembly.

Allan from down under

Allan

Terry. the brackets changed when the fluted lens was introduced. Does this matter to you?

Allan from down under.

Allan

The fans on early cars with the spring loaded arms had brass hubs. Nor has this one seen 116 years of service. That would make it 1910 or earlier, again in the era of brass hubs. Those cast steel hubs must have been made of stern stuff. Riveting four blades with multiple rivets to such a thin flange...

Allan

As john posted, farm clearing sales can be rewarding. I went to one in the north of our state and bought a flat belt driven four blade chaff cutter, of particular interest to me because it was made in an engineering works in my hometown. I also bought a pile of scrap iron. I couldn't load it all to ...

Allan

Photo 7 is interesting. Has the brass trimmed side lights of a 1915 model, but the black headlight rims of a 1916.

Allan from down under.

Allan

In 60+ years of model T motoring in more than a dozen different cars I have never had the need to run a hot air device of any sort. Think southermn California climate.
Allan from down under.

Allan

Mitch, a little history for you. The Model T Ford Club of Australia was founded in South Australia in February 1964. The Model T Ford Club of Australia {NSW] Inc, was founded in the early 1970's. The [NSW} was needed to differentiate the two, a legal requirement. The {NSW] needs to be added to the P...

Allan

The second photo clinches it. The C over H is much clearer on that iron. Interestingly, that same mark was on components of my Canadian 1915 tourer.
I wonder just how much of the Canadian cars was actually Made in Canada.

Allan from down under.

Allan

I agree with Mark. The brass channel was not painted. It wold be interesting to know the order of assembly. Was the channel fitted into the frame and then the glass installed, or was the channel fitted to the glass and the two components fitted as a unit? The channel was thin material. Perhaps using...

Allan

When was the change made, from or to, a simple letter T stamped centrally over the W? that is the Transue Williams forge mark with which I am familiar.

Allan from down under.

Allan

I have seen similar ones on a 1914 T with black and brass sidelights. Some sidelights came with the brackets riveted to the light.

Allan from down under

Allan

Good for you Jerry. The Lang's repops have too sharp and skinny ears, unlike the more rounded originals.

Allan from down under.

Allan

The 31 over 4 stamped by the valve stem hole translates to a 23" rim. There were many similar Hayes rims for Chevs, but these have the valve stem hole in a different place and the lug nearest the stem hole was slotted to enable the rim to be fitted on the wheel. This one looks like a Ford style rim ...

Allan

Dan's loom shows the problems with original wiring. The rubber insulation hardens over time as it deteriorates, and breaks rather than flexes. See the two sharp angles in the long lead. It is nice to see an original loom tag still in place. They do appear to be woven into the loom, but I believe the...

Allan

I have a freshly re-nickeled one if interested.

Allan from down under.

Allan

John's input mirrors my experience with Z heads. When asked about them I refer the inquirer to forget the Z and buy a Prus head.

Allan from down under.

Allan

Pic one is not necessarily British. It is not the usual drop frame front axle the Ford factory used. The vehicle has a whole front end modification. Gone is the transverse front spring. It has dumb irons added, a different front axle and eliptical springs.

Allan from down under.

Allan

Forgot the photos!

Allan from down under.

Allan

Well, that upside down mounting of the battery cable support bracket is a LHD thing. I checked a number of RHD frames and my cars, and our brackets are mounted to the underside of the top flange, u channel down, on the right frame rail utilising one of the fuel tank bolts to mount it. Bear in mind t...

Allan

I believe the higher arched rear cross member was a British thing, along with the dropped front axle and the even further dropped spindles than those used on the improved Fords of 1926-7. These were made in England. our Canadian sourced cars are the same arch as the US production. Allan from down un...

Allan

It"s just mounted up side down or is that a LHD thing?

Allan from down under.

Allan

Tubes which loose 2-4 pounds per week to 10 days are not fit for purpose. Can you tell us what brand they are so we can avoid them?

Allan from down under.

Allan

And if Steve's tip does not do the trick, heating the axle beam at the perch holes will help. Just don't try hauling on the axle while it is red hot. The only time I have done this was with a ruined axle, and it didn't matter if the perch holes opened up as the axle bent.

Allan from down under.

Allan

Unless it has been hammered on at some time to dislodge a stubborn wheel, the axle has a centre drilling. You can visually check this by running the car while it is securely jacked up. If the centre runs truly your axle is not bent. The wheel/adaptor mix may well be the problem, especially if an ori...

Allan

On a trip to Spokane once, I bought a Proto beam type torque wrench from a roadside stall selling all sorts of mechanics stuff. When the local machine shop was having their annual calibration of theirs, I have mine included. The tester thought it was a joke, till it pulled under two pounds at 100 po...

Allan

In 65 years of T ownership of multiple Ts I have had cars with Hayes wire wheels, Ford wire wheels, 23" wooden wheels, both non demountables and demountables, 21" split rims and all manner of tyres to suit. Never have I used balance beads, nor had the need for them. Perhaps it is the staid 35 MPH sp...

Allan

Brand recognition these days is fraught by repeated mergers and company buy-outs, product line changes and different manufacturers supplying goods for different markets. The Craftsman and Crescent, Sidchrome and Bahco we all grew up with are no longer of the same quality. Bahco was Swedish, and clai...

Allan

That's a heck of a deal. All original shifter and rod too. I love my Moore. There are ways to get an overdrive out of them.

Allan from down under.

Allan

World series! Other than US teams, I wonder who else played?
Most unusual to see so many tourers with the tops folded.

Allan from down under.

Allan

Wayne is onto it. It looks like a later wishbone has been fitted to over-the-axle wishbone perches which were standard on a 1917 model. They have used a standard castle nut to attach it rather than the correct nut with a taper on be back to seat in a corresponding countersink in the under-axle wishb...

Allan

My 1915 tourer came with a blacksmith made spare tyre carrier. Two pieces of flat iron were drillled and bolted in place with the rear spring U bolts. The irons were formed left and right and twisted to accept a half circle cradle of lesser strength flat iron, which was riveted to the flat iron arms...

Allan

Ben, by cross member, do you mean the actual front axle? Cross member is the term usually used to describe the frame front piece in which the spring is clamped. When the steering columns were assembled in the factory I believe the cover was screwed down and then the set screw hole was drilled and ta...

Allan

Chris, the lower outlet is cast iron. They are more robust, and may be available as reproductions. On our Canadian cars, the top outlet is pressed steel and they rust out easily. In the absence of reproductions I have had these made in cast brass too. Your radiator looks like a good candidate to wor...

Allan

A friend in USA told me that the HCCA rules are responsible for the number of 1916 cars being fudged into 1915 models. Another lamented that his 1917 Apperson, identical to their earlier cars was also a victim of those same rules.

Allan from down under.

Allan

It is a low radiator and shell. Looks good. Need to check the outlet though.

Allan from down under.

Allan

Photo 10 shows a closed cab pickup closely resembling George Norton's "Lil Red Truck," now belonging the J C Taylor insurance. I believe that body was built by Hercules. This is a fabulous photo showing every detail, a wonderful resource for someone wanting to recreate a period commercial vehicle. A...

Allan

I rebuilt mine many years ago before I was aware of new replacement parts. The brass housing was reamed to take anew thin walled bronze bush. To rebuild the arm I welded a piece of 3/4" [from memory] steel rod to the outside of the bend in the arm, as near as I could judge to being in line with the ...

Allan

If the plain shank of the rivet that goes into the receiver on the adjacent iron is 3/8", you could start with a 7/16" hex head bolt. Hold the head in a lathe and turn down the bolt shank to 3/8" towards the bolt head, leaving just enough of the thread for the thickness of the loop in the iron. Then...

Allan

I have 21" tyres on wire wheels fitted by my local tyre shop. Their machine takes up to 22' wheels. He puts a small tab of insulation tape on the "grabbers" to protect the paint on the rim. The rotating arm is set to run around the topsde of the rim about 1/8" above the rim, so again, no paint damag...

Allan

Scott, no-one "decided it was tempered." Both Pat and I were simply explaining that "safety glass" can be either tempered or laminated. There are likely some younger members on the forum who have never had the experience of sitting behind a shattered tempered glass windscreen, and the attendant inco...

Allan

I too think the metal piece with claws is belt lacing. Cut in half, crimped into a leather strap each end, and held together with a pin?nail, it is a fairly universal piece of kit for using flat belts. Would patches of the time have been stick-on types? Most of the period stuff with which I am famil...

Allan

We may have a misunderstanding here. Laminated windscreen glass is made of two sheets of glass glued/sandwiched together by a clear membrane. It is often referred to as safety glass because when one or both sides are cracked/broken, the glue membrane holds all the pieces together so they do not fly ...

Allan

What a neat looking vehicle Dean. Well done! I like the tailgate latches. Have you tried swapping them from one side to the other. You might be able to get rid of the spacer between the body sides and the latch hook.

Allan from down under.

Allan

That is a question for the machine shop that installed your guides. Some types may require different clearances. They will likely have already set the clearance for you. Trust their expertise.

Allan from down under.

Allan

Which is why i had no reservations about correcting his use of language. No-one to really offend.

Allan from down under.

Allan

Steven, I forgot to mention that the crankshaft seal grove on the last of the non generator covers also has the wider groove, which takes the fat, white A model crankshaft seal.

Allan from down under.

Allan

That is looking good Jason. If that is the starter button on the top floor board, it may be a little inconvenient when you have to adjust the bands. Usually the starter switch is on the floor next to the heel panel. The floorboards can be lifted out without disturbing the switch. Your tie down metho...

Allan

In the absence of a steering wheel in no
2, I wonder how they drove it.
Allan from down under.

Allan

Steve, if it helps, the last incarnation of a non generator timing cover had an open land around the camshaft which allows the fitting of a modenr lip type oil seal. Someone on the forum also machines the earlier covers to do the same.

Allan from down under.

Allan

Given four choices, the question should be which one is best? Better is for a selection of one from two.

Allan from down under, ex grade school teacher.

Allan

It does cover the timing gear somewhat, but it is actually the mounting for the generator for motors with electric starter and generator.

Allan from down under.

Allan

It is an early tie rod with the integral ball for the drag link. Later tie rods have threaded on ends held in place with a bolt-on drag link ball.

Allan from down under.

Allan

In the trade they are called K-liners. The old guide is reamed, the liner fitted and expanded/ reamed to suit. It is a job for a machine shop, to make certain the guides remain accurately aligned to the valve seats. Being and OHV head makes it easy for modern machine shops to handle. Allan from down...

Allan

George, shiplap joints in the floorboards is another indication that the builder knew what he was doing. They are designed to allow water to pass through, so the floor stays flat. Too often in restorations tongue and grooved flooring is used, often cramped together to minimise gaps. The moment it ge...

Allan

Robert's helpful comment and William's response are great examples of why comments on some listings are helpful. It would be a retrograde step to ban such responses.

Allan from down under.

Allan

Normally, the front face on the timing cover is just the rough surface of the casting. That cover appears to have been machined to give a flat surface. More intriguing is the front dam on the pan appears to have been machined also. How was that done? This could have been an attempt to limit end play...

Allan

I have what available a Stewart set-up to suit. I can send photos to your email address.

Allan from down under.

Allan

Rich, I am right handed. previously I faced the car, steadied myself on the fender/headlight with my left hand, and cranked with the right. Pulling upward from 9 o'clock for one compression, using my legs and shoulder to drive my right arm. It is my shoulder which was giving me trouble of late, that...

Allan

I made a discovery these last two days doing my usual promotion rounds for the Chocolate company in my 1912 van. I used to hand crank it with feet square to the front axle, engaging the crank handle at 9.00 o'clock and giving a quick but determined pull upwards over one compression. When parked in o...

Allan

Pat, if they lose that much pressure in a week or two, they are not fit for purpose. The purpose of a tube is to hold air! The Michelin set I fitted about 10 months ago were aired up to 60 PSI. When I recently checked them and re-inflated them to move the vehicle, all five read 45PSI. That's 15PSI l...

Allan

Larry, Coker lists Michelin tubes. The metric size 760 x 90 is the equivalent to 30 x 3.5". For wooden wheels the screw-in valve stem is part no R2030.
You will be pleased with how thick they are.

Allan from down under.

Allan

Bon-ami would probably clean your teeth to but I prefer the purposely made product.
Allanfrom down under.

Allan

Michelin tubes come with the base of the stem vulcanised in place, The fitter has to screw in the valve stem.

Allan from down under.

Allan

as long as it has a three pedal hogshead with the ususal shaped inspection cover over the bands, i think it is do-able. It will require a different field coil for the magneto and a ring gear on the flywheel.It is not a task to be taken lightly though. An engineer in our T club once modified an alloy...

Allan

If it is a rim spreader you are after, they come in different sizes, according to the rims you are on which you are working.

Allan

The earlier type also comes in Left and right side applications.
Allan from down under.

Allan

Note in Dan's first printed page....the tube is sandwiched between the flange on the valve stem and the bridge washer with its pressed in sealing ring. That drawing that keeps on being posted showing the FLAP also sandwiched between the flange and bridge washer is just that, somebody's inaccurate dr...

Allan

Steve's "both sides of the tyre simultaneously" is a great tip. it keeps the tyre irons away from the tube and avoids pinching. I would add a further tip. Buy and use proper tyre fitting lubricant to make the job that much slicker.

Allan from down under.

Allan

The last set of Blockley tyres I fitted came with Michelin tubes. These were metric equivalents. They were much thicker than any others i have ever fitted, with the exception of two old red rubber Goodyears. They were also smaller in cross section, so should fit 3" tyres well. I have had no experien...

Allan

The original question was what has changed? What made the car start kicking back? Nothing changed on the car. Enthusiastic, energetic cranking becomes harder with age. That is what changes. Setting the correct timing negates the problem. Changing the length of the timer connecting link will do that....

Allan

I stand corrected. So a round hole in the clip led to the use of a slotted head screw, a factory practice more for expedience/convenience.

Allan from down under.

Allan

That's the beauty of the corflute panels. The headlights being forward of the radiator means the panels make contact only with the headlight rims. The zip tie around the radiator neck pulls a curve into the panel, making it stiffer but there is no contact elsewhere other than at the hole over the cr...

Allan

Wow! there are 12 leaves in that front spring!

Allan from down under.

Allan

Eric makes perfect sense. However, not every T is perfectly timed for hand cranking. The original post is about what had changed. What certainly changes for all of us is we age. With that comes decreased energy/power. The new linkage to the timer is likely to have reset the timing so that now the ca...

Allan

I expect the slot head bolt in the photo is a replacement. i do not know of any slot head bolts which have to square under the head. The square and the slot are both there to stop the bolt turning. One or the other is superfluous in any given application. Our Australian built improved cars still had...

Allan

The C over H forge mark indicates it was made by Cleveland Hardware I believe. I found their mark on a few of the forgings on my 1915 Canadian tourer.

Allan from down under.

Allan

Warwick, maybe the car didn't change. The cranker may be the change. It takes a more determined effort the older you get. Wait a few years and you will find this out.

Allan from down under.

Allan

Coreflute is like corrugated cardboard in construction , except it is stronger and not effected by moisture. My panels make contact with the radiator top and headlights when fitted so they are supported by them when buffeted by headwinds. Likewise at the windscreen. I protect the radiator and headli...

Allan

Brendan, it can be just old age catching up with the cranker! Things slow down, the effort that used to work is less, and without that same inertia exerted, the piston may not be going past top dead centre before it fires. You have done well by retarding the spark to compensate. You have to crank as...

Allan

Would not a lower crown in the rear crossmember raise the car? Or is this a Northern hemisphere peculiarity?

Allan from down under.

Allan

If the bra is to protect the car front, there is a cheaper way which gives more protection. My son and I have done thousands of miles of interstate travel to tours with corflute panels like these. 20251204_123158.jpg . The front one threads on over the crank handle and is lifted up to the top. The t...

Allan

Some of the 1915 cars had firewall brackets made of a flat steel strip. The foot was bent at right angles, the uprights were folded back on themselves and the foot again bent at right angles, all in one piece. They only had two mounting holes for the firewall. I do not know if these were an interim ...

Allan

Good practice when installing any flanged bronze bushing is to stop pressing shortly before the bush is home, and blow out ant swarf which may/may not have formed around the bush. Then press it home.

Allan from down under

Allan

I love the handles forged ironwork for the pick-up tray sides. How will the distraction of recording the unload make it easier?

Allan from down under.

Allan

It looks just like the original correctly listed for sale by Melbs Nolan under the heading "bracket"

Allan from down under.

Allan

Check that the front bushing is not binding on the radius between the bolt shaft and head. You may need to chamfer the bushing hole somewhat.

Allan from down under.

Allan

The in-line fuel filter can be ditched with a new stainless steel tank. They are notorious for restricting flow on gravity feed systems like the T. Yours even appears to be fitted backwards to my eye. Usually the fuel is fed into the canister and then through the paper filter, before heading to the ...

Allan

Be sure to set up some sort of guide when drilling the windscreen frame. The hole .needs to be perpendicular to the glass. On my Henrietta it was way off so the wiper was less than efficient. I had to hand file the hole oversize and square on. I fitted a custom bronze bushing and sealed it both ends...

Allan

A big advantage to shortening the shaft at the bottom end is you get an unworn shaft section at the lower steering bracket bronze bushing.

Allan from down under.

Allan

Glad you like it Robert. Bill is a very good friend to have.

Allan from down under.

Allan

Mitch, methinks you were named after the car. You don't look anywhere near 110 years old or more.

Allan from down under.

Allan

The gasket has never been an issue with me. Lack of a gasket will be. It is needed to keep oil in.There are four slotted screws or bolts to make the ground between the starter and the block, so the gasket is not likely insulating the starter from the ground. How does the removed starter turn by hand...

Allan

I had a thought last night. Instead of thinning down the back nut so the rod would go further forward, you could counter bore the nuts somewhat so that in effect they would go on further but still remain stock looking.

Allan from down under.

Allan

Blair, broken cast iron shoes are common. Cast iron does not take flexing very well before it breaks. Expanding a worn shoe in an equally worn drum flexes it even more. With luck, it will break at the pivot point bolt and the two return springs will hold the pieces in place and the brakes will conti...

Allan

Like Wayne said. I run the back nut up as far as it will go and put the rod end in at the ball end. The Y at the rear end is usually close to fitting, but with a bit of a flex in the rob and a judicious blow with a rubber hammer, it can be driven past any obstruction on the outer cast housing. You m...

Allan

I have a nice one, but it is for a RHD car!
Allan from down under.

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