MTFCA Forum

This is the clamp I made, now shifted to the right side so it's not bouncing around and working on the middle of the tie rod.
I intend to see about making a longer tie rod yoke ball so I can get rid of the clamp and attach to the front of the tie rod yoke.

Jerry VanOoteghem wrote: ↑

Sun Apr 16, 2023 9:06 pm

Tonytiger75 wrote: ↑

Sun Apr 16, 2023 8:36 pm

The Right Brothers weren't dare devils, they were scientists who approached aviation from the view of an inherently unstable bicycle controlled by it's rider... Vs everyone else at the time thinking of an inherently Stable Ship.

WRIGHT Brothers...

Wright... I'm staying up to late

"I have 30x 3.5 clinchers running at 60 PSI they tend to ride allot harder. I've had mine up to 55MPH didn't feel any different than 45. Again the dampener doesn't improve anything if the system isn't in good condition." Running any lower pressure with the clinchers is not an option. You might enjo...

The point has been made repeatedly that a Model T in good condition does not need a steering damper, and is better off without one. It's a valid, proven point. Your car; your choice, but consider that any steering damper will add unsprung weight and will add friction to the system. Under some condi...

"The idea to connect the steering dampener as far to the right is a good idea with the dampener mounted to the frame"... I believe you'd want to make the link between the Houdaille and the drag link as close to the same length as possible, and have them run at as close to the same angle as possible...

Jerry VanOoteghem wrote: ↑

Sun Apr 16, 2023 8:06 pm

Tonytiger75 wrote: ↑

Sat Apr 15, 2023 10:16 pm

If the dampener isn't smoothing out the typical darting of the Model T ...

A typical, well maintained Model T, does not "dart".

Better tell Lang's... That's how it's advertised.

The steering dampener (hydraulic steering stabilizer) in the recent posting is not a screen door stabilizer. It is one designed for the intended use, was used on a VW and other cars as well t dampner.png Frank, How is it that a stabilizer for a VW, and a bunch of other cars as well, has been "desig...

Hi Tony, Good Luck with your idea. Although you didn't specifically ask for opinions from the group in your initial post, others (more experienced than I ) have given their opinion of your device. Another respondent wrote that the opinions expressed to you were intended to keep you safe, sound and ...

Tony, I'm glad you're an expert machinist, but I'll dare say that there are a few folks around who can pull off some pretty decent parts themselves...and have. I've just never known any of them to have the brass clackers to suggest that no one could best them at their own game, so congratulations f...

I have a 1927 T roadster on Ford wire wheels with 4.40-4.50 X 21 4 ply Vietnamese tires. I drive it on dirt roads and poor quality pavement and on good roads at speeds up to 50 MPH. It has never exhibited shimmy or death wobble. It's easy to control under a wide range of road conditions on calm day...

I know this is a touchy subject, but I am new to T's and need to understand. I have a 1927 Roadster. I've entirely rebuilt the front end, so steering is "to spec" with fresh bushings, kingpins, spindles etc. Steering seems tight, though I've never driven another Model T. One thing I've learned driv...

I can mostly let the wheel go on a straight drive and it almost drives it's self. and when it breaks the tie-rod, it WILL drive itself. Seen it twice and don't need to see it a third time. Model T tie-rods are not designed to withstand the stresses induced by a dampening system and have been shown ...

There was a recent posting where the use of one of those screen door stabilizers. What I learned was the extra strain on the tie rod has caused potentially catastrophic front end component failures. I would think this snubber contraption could create similar failures. You may have thrown a match in...

If your T doesnt tend to track straight, check the toe in & caster. I found for higher speed running additional caster helps keep a T straighter, less squirrely. I have 5/8" on 2 T's. That's about twice stock spec. Never felt the need for a stabilizer. Everything is set as it should be, I've driven...

I can mostly let the wheel go on a straight drive and it almost drives it's self. and when it breaks the tie-rod, it WILL drive itself seen it twice and don't need to see it a third time my motto is "when you need to be creative, do it on things that aren't apt to kill you" The tie rod clamp I made...

This is a project I've been thinking about for a while. Allot of the roads where I live are pretty rough so I decided to install one of the steering dampener cylinders on my roadster. It worked well but soon began to leak and whenever I went over a bump the metal tube dust shield on the cylinder wou...

Matt I would like to send off to get some of the latest boards made. I started in with the files posted earlier but ran into a couple snags with component availability and staying up way to late to think on such things...

Also wondering if there would be an update to the board info. The one you sent me Matt, seems to have given out. The Arduino seems to work but it's not driving the coil, so I'm guessing the FET or whatever it is driving the coil has died. I was going to see about ordering some boards from JLCPCB but...

Yes I had thought of desoldering the push buttons but ended up making brass pushers that reach inside, there's a small length of sheet steel I riveted to the ends with a hole and guide wire to keep the pushers lined up with the board. I have a miniature 100K POT I was thinking of using for an extern...

BE_ZERO_BE Yes that is the gizmo I'm patterning mine after.

IMG_4576 (2).JPG IMG_4575.JPG I doubt there's anything electronic wise I could do to improve this brilliant device so I'm going to put it into the fanciest box I can think of. I've always like the look of the old Jefferson coil testers but would likely never buy one since most are way to expensive ...

Wow thanks that would be great! PM sent... Sorry I've been MIA for a while life's been busy...

Tony, You'll see in the code a couple of lines that read: //amps = ((mVolts - 2500.0)/185.0); // millivolts to amps (utilise scale factor for ACS sensor range 5A chip amps = ((mVolts - 2500.0) / 100.0); // millivolts to amps (utilise scale factor for ACS sensor range 20A chip The '//' makes the lin...

I have another current sensor, I’m pretty sure they were both 20 amp… I’ll switch it out and see what happens then maybe try to figure out the adjustments in the code…

I've been following this project since about June ...I mess around with electronics some, mostly tube stuff, I'm a complete newbie to Arduino. I bought some Arduino parts and started putting it together... it didn't work at all... gave up for a while. bought a couple different parts, read some and w...