MTFCA Forum

There are several wood wheel rebuilders. They service T wheels. I'm not sure about TT wheels.

I like to drive cars.

"Unviersal" anti-freeze is being sold today. It is labeled as compatible for all vehicles/all years.

Green anti-freeze is fine for aluminum heads. Buy a name brand, and use as directed. Adding a properly designed overflow tank to the system might help prevent corrosion by limiting air/oxygen access to the coolant.

"Green" antifreeze, used as directed, is best for Model Ts and other pre-1975 vehicles.

A stock Model T will not shimmy or shake if the wheels, tires, and chassis are in good shape. It's possible to add modern type hydraulic shocks to a T without invasive modification, and doing so will add a lot to stability and handling. Ford wire wheels are best for highway driving. The later, "Impr...

Section and narrow a '26-'27 open car cowl?

A good battery replacement solution to substantially reduce weight, eliminate periodic cleaning and adding water to the battery, and get about double the service life, or more, is to install an Optima Red Top 6 volt battery. To assure best results, replace your stock generator cutout with one of the...

Very nice!

Metallurgy may differ. Plates that have been bent and straightened will be somewhat hardened, which may affect their magnetic behavior. Soft steels magnetize easily, but will not hold magnetism well. Harder steels and steel alloys will hold magnetism. Field pieces uses in association with permanent ...

Back in the 1920s, tires were sized by the outside diameter and the section width. That's where the 32 X/ 4 Inches comes from. Around 1928 or so, the nomenclature changed, and tire sizes were based on the nominal rim diameter and the section width. So after the change, a 32 X 4 tire became something...

Extremes have a way of working against themselves. There is no "cold", only more or less heat.

A warm, moist, carbon-rich biosphere is a populous and diverse one. The most sterile natural place on earth is a desert in Antarctica. It is NOT HOT, and not likely to be, unless the Antarctic continent moves away from the polar region and toward the equator. We are carboniferous creatures.

Global Warming has struck with a vengeance! Night before last, it was around 18F. A couple of hours ago, the temperature exploded to 68F!! I got my T out and drove for 43 miles, T shirt & jeans. Horrors!

Besides the shape, the composition of the steel may differ from one type to another.

Gravity flow fuel systems will not tolerate any added restrictions to the fuel flow. That includes added filters, many types of non-stock shut off valves, dents in fuel lines, improperly routed fuel lines, low float level, plugged gas cap vents, and incorrect carburetor needle and seat sets. That's ...

According to a Ford Service Bulletin of January, 1924, recharging magnets in the car can only achieve about 60% of full strength. For full original magnet strength, the magnets have to be removed and individually recharged, or replaced with new ones.

Running ragged under load could be a fuel issue or ignition. Opening up the carburetor adjustment a little may help. In a 1924 service bulletin, Ford recommended oiling the timer frequently with a light oil, every 200 miles, or even every 100 miles. An ideal oil for a stock Ford roller timer in cold...

Since you operate in colder weather, your T engine will perform better with the heat pipe in place. If it doesn't have one, it needs one.

They're here... someplace, along with about 500,000 other assorted items. The tank has 3 compartments, small, medium and large. I believe the smallest compartment was for motor oil, the medium sized one for kerosene, and the large one for gasoline.

The 1946-1948 Ford passenger cars had a transmission to frame mount that could be adapted to make a very good mount/support for the auxiliary transmission. It is a saddle-like mount with a thick, bonded rubber center. Repros may be available. The early to mid 1930s Fords had a rubber collar / metal ...

It's supposed to get p to 60 F today, and most of the snow is gone and the slop dried up. I hope to get a chance to look around today or tomorrow.

Well, the valves are not on the tank, but I did establish that they are 1 1/2" NPT on the tank side.

I'd want to install original-type wooden side blocks at the stock rear pan ears. At the rear of the Muncie, I'd want a firm, but flexible arrangement to absorb the side thrusts resulting from the rear wheels encountering road obstacles and to resist upward and downward forces resulting from engine t...

The Polar Bears are sweating!

Cold winters and clean air probably reduce yellowing and browning of white rubber. Higher elevations may also help preserve rubber. An environment free of chemical vapors from any source is probably best for tires.

The fine wire electrode type platinum plug can offer easier starting due to the fact that it can fire at lower voltage, all else being equal, than a standard type plug. They will also hold an adjustment far longer. That said, standard plugs of the correct type work just fine if the ignition system a...

Consolation prize: Every part of the car that bent absorbed some of the impact energy, so that you did not have to.

Is their anything in the tires' environment that could contribute to the browning? A number of things can accelerate browning. Some tire cleaning products allegedly contribute to browning of white tires. Back in the day, the all-white tires wore very rapidly. The advent of lamblack-filled tire rubbe...

No matter what method you use to adjust coils, a good result can only be obtained with coil units that are in good condition and both physically and electrically stable, without intermittent shorts/opens, worn out points, off-spec capacitors, etc. The vibrator point assembly and its mounting must be...

The test results above indicate to me that current draw is NOT an accurate way to synchronize time-to-fire among a set of coils.
Correcting current draw will prevent damaging the timer and would likely prevent undue stress on the coil points and double-sparking.

Does the cowl lean with the windshield?

How much end play in your crankshaft?

If you put a jack under the middle of the front axle, put a 2 foot length of 4X4 hardwood between the jack and the axle. Otherwise, you may bend the axle./////// You could also park the car on a level surface and use two floor jacks under the frame on the low side, one just behind the front wheel an...

I used to have 3 tank valves on a Texaco tank. When it dries out, I'll see if I can locate them.

Good news indeed!

Are you sure it's a compression leak? Leaks at that point are unusual. Gray to black deposits are common on plug insulators, especially where rubber boots are used on the plug wires. It's caused by high voltage corona and will usually wipe off easily.

Model T engines that are anywhere near stock and in fairly good condition and driven under anything approaching normal use are very tolerant of what spark plugs are used.

I've had a few of the terminals come loose from the insulator. I don't remember exactly what plugs they were. My car has "Silvery plated" Champion A 25 plugs in it. They have performed very well for over 15,000 miles.

The effective strength of each magnet will vary if the gap varies.

..... Joe P. Biden.

Do you use stock T ignition coils? I'd stay away from resistor plugs with a stock ignition system or with antique magnetos. Some plugs are designed for aluminum heads and the thread area is plated with a material that prevents the plug threads from seizing in the aluminum. A non-resistor platinum el...

If the magnet heights are not at spec and equal, the output voltage/current profile will not be the same within each revolution of the crankshaft. If one or more magnet retainers is high, the rest will have to be too low, increasing the average gap and reducing the output of the balance of the magne...

I connected a T coil up to a 50 foot outside antenna wire and set up a 1/4" spark gap. I used a Morse key in the primary supply. I could send Morse code to any AM radio in the vicinity. A neighbor 4 blocks down the street could hear it clearly on a typical table top clock radio. I think it may have ...

I don't think resistor plugs or wire give good results with systems not designed for them. If you have a modern type coil and distributor system, you can probably use them if you care to. They are intended to reduce radio frequency (RF) interference radiated by the high tension side of the ignition ...

There are a lot of places today where one could be useful. I'd want a snatch block or two and some short chains. That would offer a number of options, including options to keep the car more or less lined up with the rope

They're made of Unobtainium by the Nonesuch Corporation.

Probably the springs.

My choice would be platinum plugs that looked exactly like early Champion X plugs. The platinum wire type plug would facilitate starting on magneto.

I think that it would pull if the other rear wheel had any traction at all. Since the winch drum diameter is a fraction of the other rear wheel's diameter, the torque load would be very low and the differential would allow it to turn instead of the wheel on the ground. In an extreme situation, such ...

I suspect that some sheet metal parts, like the improved front fenders, where not made in their exact final shape. They may have been stamped/assembled in such a way that they had to be sprung slightly during installation to make the bolt holes line up. This would put some tension, or pre-load, in t...

I'd bet they did a lot of cussing, prying, and grabbing hold and bending in the sheet metal assembly areas at the factory. Prior to WWII, most large tanks for water, oil etc, were built up from formed sheet metal sections, with hundreds of bolts spaced about every two inches. Special rat-tailed wren...

The condition of the leather or rubber pads between the springs and frame cross members can affect whether the car leans left or right or not. Dry, stiff springs will often cause lean. Tire inflation can make a surprising difference in how the car sits, and tread wear or mixed sets of tires can also...

Body sheet metal is not very uniform when new.

That's all pretty close. The springs themselves can be a little off, and how evenly tightened the spring to frame clamps are can affect how the car sits. Most concrete is not very flat, so measuring from points on the vehicle to a concrete surface or blacktop or a wood floor is not very reliable for...

They probably gutted a nice circa 1950 Ford pickup, too.

Got me one of them flush toilets....

Hub winch or "Cat Head". User caution would be a must. That plus a snatch block would get you out of most any mud or snow situation without the need of a mule. Some high quality rope and a walking dog would be good to have, too.

Looks like a fine day. Global Warming has stuck here with a vengeance, with tonight's low temp projected to be zero F. We had a Colonel Breckenridge here in the USA in the 19th Century. Several places are named for him.

When I got my car, it had no wood blocks/bolts at the rear engine mounts. I bought repros and installed them as Ford directed. The car now tracks slightly better and seems to have a slight reduction in vibration. Note that the side bolts are NOT intended to be pulled up tight. My car does not have t...

Do you really think two wrongs make a right?

You could in my car.

Looks like a prolific source of squeaks. I wonder if a flex coupling for the register could be made from the material they make oven door gaskets from. (?)

Back in the day, a felt crankshaft seal may have been more effective than one would be today. After a few hundred miles, the original felt seals probably accumulated enough carbon and gum to make them less permeable to oil. Modern oils and gasoline would have some tendency to keep the felt cleaner, ...

Probably a Mercury....

I believe the engine/transmission should be centered between the frame rails. The hand brake shaft may be bent, or the frame may be out of line, or the engine pan ears may be bent or welded poorly. If the engine is not centered in the frame, the front and rear axles will be out of alignment to some ...

I don't build "rods", but I might buy one I liked. Living miles down a bad dirt road rules out show cars.

LOCATION, LOCATION, LOCATION.

What size are they?

I'm grateful to the people who, for whatever reason, have saved this kind of old junk over the last 80 years and more.

After performing proper starting preparations, one should "lift" the crank with moderate vigor. Good maintenance and correct technique will assure success while avoiding broken bones, damaged teeth, and split britches. If it is found that the engine needs to be "spun" in order to clear a flooding co...

The rope seal is superior to felt. The white-colored rope seal is probably impregnated with white lead or teflon. It needs to be snug, but not jammed extremely tight. Oil it before putting the pan on. Care in installation will give a good result. The surface finish of the crankshaft will affect how ...

I'd do away with the hood scoop and the goofy wheels.

I'd like to put a Ford 60 HP V8 in a late T: V8 engine, custom radiator, everything else stock. Brakes? Not so much. The VBC would have to use discretion.

With all the rusty or dented sheet metal out there, plus fair to good loose sheet metal parts, plus excellent repro parts, there's no excuse to mod out a solid original T. (But fools abound)

Front axle may be '48 Ford F2 or F3 truck. The frame may be, too. I like it, outside of the absurd wheels and tires. Engine is a '49' / 53 Ford V8 with very nice mods. I doubt if a nice T was sacrificed to build this , but you never know. I drove a 1950 Ford F-3 for several years. Loved it. It rolle...

The rear axle is a circa-1948 Ford 3/4 ton or 1 ton axle. I can't tell what the front axle is. I'd have to change out those wheels and tires for a set of '28 Ford AA wire wheels with some period style tires.

Nice car.... and it's not a 350!!! If I was rich..... I'd buy it.

Marvelous machines! In cold weather, it is especially important to use the right motor oil in Model Ts. In cold weather, a quality 5W20 or 5W30 is a good choice. In milder weather, 10W30 is a good choice. I use 10W30 full synthetic with excellent results, even in 100F + Texas weather. If I was going...

That rim looks great.

I'd bet that very few people actually did all of that.

I'd want to get the sag out of the rails.

A Model T with the steering system and chassis in good order will NOT wander all over the road like a cartoon car. It won't shimmy, either, if the wheels and tires are in balance and run true. There will be no "slack" or lost motion in the steering system. The car will handle easily and predictably ...

PAL nuts? Push And Lock?

Unfortunate damage, especially since rust damage is almost non-existent.

Felloes would need extensive straightening or re-rolling.

Tightening the hub bolts will clamp the spokes tighter, but it will not restore the necessary tight fit between the tapered inner spoke ends. In some cases, putting shim washers between the outer spoke ends and the felloe can restore the tight fit between the inner spoke ends.

Those spokes look weathered and shrunken. It's likely that some or all of the tenons are decayed or worn. Wheels that have run loose will have wear on critical spoke surfaces in addition to shrinkage.

Someone who is familiar with the early front suspension needs to take a look at that. Improper assembly, incorrect parts, loose, bent, or worn parts, damage to the frame, cross member or oil pan need to be ruled out or corrected. The condition of the front spring affects caster. Engine mounts need t...

It's common for the quadrants and levers to be well-worn where they contact one another. That wear allows the the control rods and anything attached to them to move toward the pitman arm. My steering column jacket is bolted to the driver side of the firewall.

Coil capacitor problems will cause excess arcing at the coil points. As far as I know, the coils don't much care what the supply voltage is, be it 6 volts DC, 12 volts DC, or 4 to 30 volts AC, so long as they are adjusted correctly, the plug gaps within reason, and the capacitors are good.

Wear is one thing, incorrect assembly is another. Correcting the assembly will probably correct the problem. My quadrants are worn almost smooth, but the levers stay put anyway. I need to shim the wood filler at the lower steering shaft bearing, since the spark rod contacts the hood shelf.

Actually, a choke is not NOT needed for the ignition coil circuit. The coils' points will open when the applied voltage reaches a certain point, and how much higher the available voltage goes once the points are open is moot. The headlights and other bulbs are a different matter, since they have no ...

Wear on the quadrant notches and the "tooth" on the levers will allow the control rod to move closer to the pitman arm. Bending the quadrants slightly toward the steering wheel will move the rods back where they belong. You could also put a short length of rubber hose on the lever where it rides on ...

CORRECTION: Adding a choke to the mag output wire would limit voltage at higher RPM while leaving it about the same at lower RPM. They were used on late model non-starter Ts to regulate HEADLIGHT voltage, but NOT the ignition supply voltage) ** A CHOKE IS NOT NEEDED FOR THE IGNITION CIRCUIT**** See ...

Yep. I wonder if it was store-bought, or home made from an old casing or boot top and wired-on or laced-on with cord of some kind..... . Bumpity bump, shimmy and shake! The tires look a little under-flated, so maybe he had just got a rim cut.

Ruckstells were installed in a variety of cars & trucks for a variety of reasons. The range of ring & pinion ratios offered were aimed at allowing customers to get the best advantage from their particular installation, be it a roadster owner looking for speed, or a fordor owner looking for better hi...

It looks to me like 2 canvas bundles and 2 poles. Maybe 2 tents? One for the gents, and one for m'lady?

Pic # 3... Pittsburgh?

Golf cart is a good idea. I think batteries would be the best source of a heavy jolt of pure DC current. If you use car batteries in a series hook up, be sure ALL of them are in good condition and fully charged.

A century on, in most cases, the integrity of original parts can be questionable, especially cylinder blocks, crankshafts, connecting rods, u-joints, frames, springs, rear axles, and valves. But a number of Ts have been run many thousands of miles at speeds at or above 40 MPH with no issues. No matt...

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