MTFCA Forum

ecory0

Thank you!!!!!

ecory0

Just for clarity, as I reread my post and not sure if I was clear with my explanation. The picture I posted of my transmission, the location where the yellow arrow is pointed is NOT where my clutch ring currently is. That picture is of the transmission cover already installed and the clutch ring is ...

ecory0

Thank you! Going to give it a try. I have cotton bands.

ecory0

Thank you! I pulled the engine out to replace the o rings on the pedal shafts to stop leaks. Now that its back in, I'm trying to adjust my low speed pedal and can't seem to get it dialed in. it seems to either slip, or be too tight.

ecory0

I think I installed my clutch release ring in the incorrect location but wanted to confirm before pulling everything apart again. Is the location, as pointed out in the handbook (pictured below) the same as where I put the arrow on my picture? Thank you in advance!

[image][/image]

ecory0

The Bruan is a magnetic light.

As far as the blue wire, no clue. It wasn't connected to anything, just a hitchhiker.

If you didn't see my other post, I jacked up the magneto when removing the bell cover. Ugh....

ecory0

Thanks everyone. After I'm done crying (kidding) I'll put it back together and see what it does, if anything. Today I'm doing the things I originally intended to do, replace pedal shafts, o-rings, etc. Then I'll put it all back at some point and try it out. The blue wire.... not sure. It wasn't conn...

ecory0

assuming I will have to remove the engine to get the magneto ring off...

ecory0

ugh, thanks for looking.

ecory0

the light is from Harbor Freight. You can find them on sale for about $22. This one is similar. I couldn't find the kind I have but they are in the stores. https://www.harborfreight.com/lighting/automotive-lighting/800-lumen-led-rechargeable-magnetic-handheld-foldable-slim-bar-work-light-59103.html

ecory0

2 steps forward, 18 steps back. Trying to solve a pretty bad oil leak coming out of the pedal shafts. Took my bell cap off for the first time, not realizing how heavy it is and I did this to the mag. Is it jacked? what do I do now?

ecory0

I should have circled the wire I was referring to. Its inside, the blue one.

ecory0

I don’t have a speed sensor. Maybe in its past it had one and it was left there? Where would the wire lead to?

ecory0

Lol, maybe I'll go back in time and find whoever put that wire in there.

ecory0

I pulled off my starter this evening and SURPRISE, this wire said hello to me. Any idea what it is? I will be taking the hogs head off tomorrow to get a better look. The other surprise was the broken bolt (bottom right). Got it out pretty easy though.

ecory0

OP, did you wind up installing the wiper? I’m looking to do the same thing and trying to figure out how much longer to extend the wiper rod.

ecory0

This is a pic of what it looked like when I first pulled the head off. Not sure if this provides any more clues to the problem.

ecory0

I would like to avoid a full rebuild unless it’s the only path forward. Since I broke a ring and have an odd size piston, .005, I’m guessing my best bet is to purchase a .010 and file the gap?

ecory0

Given that the piston is .005, which size ring set should I get?

ecory0

kmatt2,
I did a compression test and all 4 cylinders were at 50 if I recall correctly, including #1. You are correct that there is a .005 on the top of the piston. #2 and 3 have .010 on the top and #4 has .005. I don't recall if the ring gaps were in the same place when i removed the piston.

ecory0

Agreed Scott! I actually wasn’t sure what the knock was after checking the rod caps so I took it to a mechanic who works on old cars who told me he thought it was the ring. I guess I wanted to prove him right so I broke the ring myself! Lol. The knock doesn’t start until the engine gets a bit warm a...

ecory0

I've been working on my T for a while and just when I thought it was ready to be driven, I hear a knock. With a stethoscope I believe it is coming from cylinder #1. I pulled the #1 spark plug and it is oily. All other plugs were dry. Initial thought is a cracked piston ring. Took the head off and th...

ecory0

Thanks all! Will be going through the suggestions tomorrow morning.

ecory0

I did notice some smoke coming out of the manifold. Would that cause a sound like that?

ecory0

A little history on the car to help. It had a distributor but I couldn’t get it to run right with it so I removed it and replaced with a timer from Lang’s. I bought rebuilt coils from midnight coil repair and new wiring harness. Put it all together a couple weeks ago and it drove great. I took it ar...

ecory0

Is this a knock?
Video link —> https://youtu.be/nd7Qv7II0OE

ecory0

I’m not a mechanic, just a hobbyist who is having fun learning about the model T. I ordered a new set of points and condenser from model t ranch. Hope to get it back on the road soon.

ecory0

Well… got to the bottom of it all. First, thank you to everyone for helping me with this. As you can see in the pictures, the wires in the distributor melted apart. I think that is a clue, lol.

ecory0

Finally got back in the garage. I have power through the switch and coming in and out of the distributor coil. There is continuity through the ammeter. I’m not sure how to test the distributor but given that power leads up to it, I’m guessing that narrows the search down. Thoughts?

ecory0

That's how the car came when I bought it. Didn't realize there was a 6 volt coil on it until I had the issue.

ecory0

Good stuff guys. Fuel shutoff is in the on position and worked well a few days prior to wires melting. Tank is close to full. I need to check the ignition system when I get back in the garage next weekend.

ecory0

@ Craig I believe I have a 12 volt system (12 v battery) although when I looked at the distributor coil, it was a 6 V?? Not sure honestly. That's what was on it when I bought it last summer. When I tried to start the car I didn't look at the ammeter, but will do that next time I can mess with it. I ...

ecory0

Looking at Jimgolden’s picture, I think I have the Yellow stripped wire from the amp meter going to the wrong screw?

ecory0

Yes, not sure why my fingers keep typing alternator when my mind it thinking distributor…. Ugh. Going to order a new switch first. Should I just get the back part or the entire switch? And does it make a difference which back type I purchase? Looks like there are two types. 12876EF5-4E75-43AA-9761-B...

ecory0

The ignition switch would make sense since the plastic backer on the key switch was a little melted but the wires closer to the alternator looked ok. I’ll replace that first and go from there. It’s less expensive than changing the alternator.

ecory0

Should I get new spark plug wires? Or just the cap, points and condenser.

ecory0

Thank you! Looks like I’m shopping tonight at model t ranch

ecory0

Thanks JTT3. No water pump. I tried to get a new pully but everything is back ordered. I hope it comes in soon. I’ll check to see if I can find parts for that distributer and going to put the fuse on soon.

ecory0

The picture of the melted wire makes it look like it is attached to the terminal block but it wasn’t .

ecory0

I believe that was the wire that went to the positive side of the distributer coil. It melted and the wire broke there. But it bypassed the terminal block and ran through the firewall hole to the back of the dashboard. I replace it with the blue wire with yellow stripes on it.

ecory0

Looks like Lang’s only sells Bosch Distributer and parts. Not even sure what I have on my T. Any idea where I could get parts for this? Also my fan belt keeps slipping off and while taking this picture it seems the belt is rubbing against this Distributer setup. Probably why. Maybe time to buy a new...

ecory0

Thanks J. I replaced the coil too. Still won’t start. I bought the fuse and about to install that. So next is points, condenser and block. I’ll keep plugging away. Thank you.

ecory0

@humblej that burnt wire is the one that goes from the Distributer coil to the back of the dash. Replaced with me blue wire in picture with yellow stripes.

ecory0

Sorry all, I have a generator and Distributer , not alternator. Apologies for the confusion. @scott_conger I had the battery tender on because I live in the northeast and not driving it during the cold months and didn’t want the battery to go bad. @Steve Jeff. I went off the texasparts.com diagram f...

ecory0

ecory0

Scary moments. I left the key in the ignition, and in the on position by mistake. Then hooked up the battery tender. A few hours later and lots of smoke, the wires leading off the amp meter and gages melted. I replaced all the wires but now the car won’t start. I hear the starter turning but no dice...

ecory0

Woot woot! Thank you everyone! Got the headlights going. Now on to the tail light. I painted that as well. Where is the ground on that one?
Also, my headlights work but when I switch to dim, nothing.

ecory0

Thank you all very much. This will be my weekend project so wish me luck!

ecory0

So I repainted my headlights and tail light and now they don’t work. Reading through the forums it is apparent I painted over the location where the light grounds. What I’m still unsure of is where exactly do I need to sand and remove paint to make the ground connections. I’m a visual learner If som...

ecory0

I see that Lang’s sells bronze bushings but the description says they are for the earlier cars. I’m guessing they won’t fit on a 1924?

ecory0

Thanks all! Really odd sizes in new parts. Bushings are too big for the new perch. Will need to hone before trying again. I’d rather do it myself but I’m tempted to find a machine shop. I’ll try and get one out with a hacksaw and hone the inside of the perch before trying again. I have the bushing t...

ecory0

I’m refurbishing the rear axle. All going well until I tried to remove the rear spring perch bushing. They wouldn’t budge. I wound up buying new perches but the new bushings won’t go in. Wound up mushrooming about 3/4 of the way in and now that one is jammed in the new perch. Any advice?

ecory0

thanks for all the help. I tried most of the methods suggested and the winner was the razor blade between the bolt and case. It got it moving just enough to get a drywall spatula in there and then it worked its way out.

ecory0

I found a classic car shop in Gainesville va. A bit expensive but did good work. All American street rods

ecory0

Great idea, thanks John!

ecory0

Lol, I’ll give it a try. Thank you!

ecory0

No room for a screwdriver or even a drywall spatula. Doesn’t even start to back out. I tried pulling using the hole on the head and still no movement. Ugh..

ecory0

Will I have to drill this out or is there a trick? It’s the u joint bolt. I tried pushing on the back without luck. Video link is below.

https://youtu.be/WGYe4nuyPHI

ecory0

Thank you!

ecory0

Guess I should buy new ones for the T. Any complaints about the cheaper reproductions instead of shelling out for the $100+ older style?

ecory0

They don’t look to be tapped but no idea if they are for the rear. Have holes that look like they should have a great cap on front? Was thinking of buying new ones or using washers. I just installed new bushings and reamed them. Slides right in but too long.

ecory0

This is the front spring shackle. Should there be the gap where the red arrow is pointing?

ecory0

Woah, the coats machines are thousands of dollars!!!!

ecory0

what about this guy:

ecory0

Thanks for the suggestions! While waiting on responses I spent about an hour cursing and using brute force. Got one side off but now struggling for progress. I have 4 more to go counting the spare. If that harbor freight thing works I’ll buy it. Can anyone vouch for it?

ecory0

I’m trying to change the tires on a 1924 Tudor. Tires are old, dry rot and very stiff. I bought a few harbor freight tire irons but having a heck of a time. HF sells a tire changer tool https://www.harborfreight.com/manual-tire-changer-69686.html but not sure if it will work. My rims are not the spl...

ecory0

Hi all, anyone in the Northern Virginia or DC metro area that does front axle repairs? I bought new spindles, bushings, etc. Or perhaps someone who rents all the tools? Thank you!

ecory0

Thanks guys. I emailed Lang’s and they didn’t carry just the rubber. Only the bracket with rubber installed. I’ll have to see who they get it from.

ecory0

The rear side side windows on the 1924 Tudor are longer than the front windows and I only see the upper door window rubber for the fronts. Any leads on where I can get replacement rubber that is long enough?

ecory0

Thank you Allen from down under! I'm still here and excited to try that.

ecory0

Perry, thank you. On the drivers side, when the door is closed I can push on the top and bottom and the gap closes, but as soon as I release the pressure it goes back. Where the latch is in the middle of the door there is no gap. The drivers side gaps on the top and bottom are not bad. Maybe 1/2 inc...

ecory0

TonyB, lol, good points but the gap catches my eye every time. But in the end, I'm not sure it will be worth it either. I say that not knowing what it will take to correct it. But have in my mind to give it a good attempt! TXGOAT2, thanks for the feedback. I'm hunting for illustrations now. Do you t...

ecory0

What is the best way to get these doors back into alignment? 1924 Tudor. I searched but didn't find alot of advice. Its on both doors.

ecory0

Sounds like I’m off to harbor freight to by a stethoscope. Great suggestion. So I’m not crazy about the sound?

ecory0

Everything is open. Time to see what’s going on inside the carb. Was worried if that was a knocking sound before I did that. First time diving into the carb… first time doing everything with the t!

ecory0

I just replaced the sediment bulb and gas line. Primed the engine using the front crank. Then started the car, runs for about 20-30 seconds and cuts off but I'm not sure if I hear a knock. What do you think? https://youtu.be/jcvrhH2f6oA https://youtu.be/hnSgXVNNWcw If it sounds ok I think my next st...

ecory0

Got it off!!

ecory0

I’m seeing that! Very grateful for the help.

ecory0

You are all awesome! That picture really helps see what it should look like and what I’m missing. The million dollar question now is how to get the gas out before replacing the bulb. I’m thinking open the line just before the carb and let it drain from there. May be slow since the sediment bulb valv...

ecory0

Correct. The fuel line was open but I closed before taking the picture.

ecory0

Thank you Terry. Its the cut off valve at the carb fuel line. (finger pointing to it in the pic) After reading some more i closed the carb needle and opened it a full turn. I have a 1924 Tudor with a Kingston carburetor. I tried to open the sediment valve under the gas tank (picture below) but wasn'...

ecory0

As far as the problems I’m experiencing, I bought the car a couple weeks ago. Seemed to run well but being unfamiliar I stalled several times. It was also leaking fuel from the shutoff valve. I tightened what looks like the compression nut leading into the valve and losened the needle for the carb. ...

ecory0

Thank you! I’ll see what I can find in the listings. But if anyone reads this thread and is close you would be a lifesaver!

ecory0

Anyone near Prince William, VA that would be able to help get a newly purchased model T started and some driving lessons. I'm happy to pay for good help. It was running a week ago but not sure what's going on now.

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