MTFCA Forum

pron022020

Humblej is right.

pron022020

This is an example for the next person who says that the cars weren't shiny off the assembly line!

pron022020

Just a few things to denote: my all original 27 has a black steering wheel and brake handle.

pron022020

Thanks everybody for all the information. Tomorrow I will pull the drag link off and see if it is an earlier one.

pron022020

It was bent cold.

pron022020

I am back after a long hiatus. Putting my 27 back together from a hogshead overhaul, I noticed that my drag link is somehow bent again. I straightened it earlier this year while restoring the front end. Any reason why this happened again?

pron022020

To circumvent all of these issues, use an actually good 2k paint!!! Cheap is not better and is not worth the trouble.

pron022020

Since I knew I wasn't going to reuse them I just bent them out of shape and grabbed them with pliers.

pron022020

White oak is probably the next best thing, though I use Maple sometimes. At any rate, you need to spray it with a really good epoxy all around and that will negate ant future issues.

pron022020

There are several spiral nails or tacks that push into the holes and then the molding slides over top.

pron022020

I used a little on mine for two reasons. One to make sure it sealed well and two to hold it in place a little while I put the moldings on.

pron022020

Send me a PM.

pron022020

I have a lot of them leftover if you are interested.

pron022020

I assume many Model T spring leafs have been entirely painted. Have there been documented cases where this has resulted in loose bolts and leafs ? If so, has this resulted in spring failures? I have yet to hear of one on any T's or A's. A lot of it is common sense - A thin coat of epoxy and then sl...

pron022020

speedytinc wrote: ↑
Thu Sep 15, 2022 1:59 pm
Texas is where Model T parts & products go to die.

Gotta be my favorite quote on the forums so far...

pron022020

Get it tight now, stake it, and don't worry about it. There is so much tension that the spring is essentially a giant lockwasher.
BTW- you could tighten it afterward with square sockets.

pron022020

ModelTWoods wrote: ↑
Wed Sep 14, 2022 11:26 pm
Great News ! Now, if Birdhaven could only manufacture all the parts they advertise and keep them in stock !

Don't hold your breath...

pron022020

I think the main reason people don't have good performance with vaporizers is that the ones they have aren't rebuilt good. Russ Potter is the guy for vaporizers, and as he says about the people that don't like them: "they haven't had one of mine." The other thing too is that there are a bunch of oth...

pron022020

I have done it two ways. I have primed each leaf first with epoxy, painted them black, the painted the sides with graphite and assembled. I have also primed the leaves, painted with graphite, assembled THEN painted. There isn't much of a difference at the end of the day, but I prefer to assemble the...

pron022020

Paste wax is good. Pretty much any wax will work but some will shine up the paint FYI.

pron022020

"If the inspection plate is removed from the bottom of the pan, you will be able to see if a rod has run a bearing. The good news is these can be replaced in the car without even pulling the head." Replace a rod bearing without pulling the head? This is a trick I need to learn! Yeah you cut the rod...

pron022020

I did my Coupe upholstery but a touring is definetely more complicated to do with the top and the seats and the fact that it is a different material. I would probably lean toward having someone more experienced do it.

pron022020

I don't want to be this guy, but this is the reason you should avoid cars or projects without titles unless you are dead set on it or it is special. Nevertheless, that doesn't help you here. Dealing with the dmv is always a fun time. I just transferred a Model T title and registered it along with a ...

pron022020

If it is original I'd say save it.

pron022020

Since the old rubbers were original and dried out, I just split them in two. That left the rivet where I took a punch and got the rivet out while holding a block of wood under the bracket to keep it from bending down. It is not easy.

pron022020

You have to look close at those NOS parts. They were often left on the shelf because they were not quite right or returned from a customer. You know, I have heard so many people say this over the years but I or my dad have yet to run into a bad NOS part for any of the cars either of us have done. N...

pron022020

When I did this earlier this year I bought new bumpers and removed the old ones by drilling then out. Instead of riveting them I just took a sheet metal screw and screwed them down. I think during manufacturing of the doors (before welding them together) these were installed. Otherwise they had some...

pron022020

Now you should treat them with something, your choice of clear finish like varnish, polyurethane, etc.

pron022020

Be careful with that. Most states and locations dont have it as legal to use blue headlight bulbs. Now you are driving a Model T so you probably won't get pulled over.

pron022020

Ah I see. Yeah, there is probably a mill in England that makes it but I don't have any further advice other than find a supplier over there.

pron022020

Classitique for sure. I don't think the striping was blatantly obvious originally. It was just kinda there.

pron022020

On my mostly original 27, the lug nuts are the tall square type.

pron022020

Pyroxylin Lacquer has not been produced for a while. You would not want to use any kind of lacquer anymore on a car because of the modern paints we have. Lacquer is durable, but it dries so hard it cracks and checks. This is even more of a problem with acrylic lacquer which is the only type still ar...

pron022020

I was never impressed with the rear spring bolts so I reused my original which was in good shape on my low mileage 27 Coupe. Nobody makes a perfect reproduction of the original bolt.

pron022020

I don't think the late bodies were satin. Lacquer doesn't come out that dull ever. The picture might be before the final buffing, not sure of the process. The designation of satin was likely used to distinguish the newer lacquer body cars from the older enamel ones. If you study up on the Ford proce...

pron022020

I said before and I say it again - 90 to 100 pounds is more than sufficient. Most problems happen when people don't check back on them after the hub settles on the taper.

pron022020

Most anything that looks satin is faded like old lacquers and enamels did over the years. Originally everything was shiny.

pron022020

I like around 100 pounds. Anymore than 125 is unnecessary and can probably strip the axle depending on the threads. No torque values were really given for any of the parts on these cars, judgement was what guided mechanics.

pron022020

The plot thickens... my contention is that they discontinued them some time late in production. My car is a March 1927 so that is pretty late and would make sense as the Model A never had pads.

pron022020

Not to change the subject, but I will contest that at least in 27 toward the end of production no pads were used on the front or rear springs. This is evidenced by a mostly all original 27 Coupe I have that probably was never taken apart and still had all original shackles.

pron022020

Good luck with that, they are still closed to the public. The various clubs and organizations should write an open letter to them. Two years down the road it is less about Covid and more about just not wanting to open back up again.

pron022020

This is a photo of my great great grandparents from the 1920s. Can anybody identify what kind of car this is? I have reason to believe that it was probably a higher end car.

pron022020

Mine did the same thing. I think it was the brake shoe on one side where the lining had separated and was flapping in the wind. I still replaced the thrust washers inside.

pron022020

Equally tighten the U bolts. I have found that some cars just aren't perfect.

pron022020

250 is too high for my comfort. I draw the line at about 220 tops. Something is wrong.

pron022020

Either etching primer or epoxy will be a fine primer on aluminum.

pron022020

Rich when I did mine recently the originals were cut back a bit at the ends. They did not go all the way out to the end of the band which makes sense because the lining will never lie flat there.

pron022020

What exactly are you using as your glass setting tape and what is the thickness of it?
Also, is your glass new and what is it's thickness?
Finallly, are your channels repops or originals?

pron022020

Bluing with that product will not work over Zinc. I sandblast the parts I do and it produces a nice finish over. I usually put some oil on afterward. You will have to remove all of the zinc plating.

pron022020

You could pull the spring with it but I have found that to do that the car has to be up pretty high to clear the crossmember. I just pulled the axle then the spring and revwrse assembled it after I worked on them.

pron022020

The reality of the situation is that there really isn't a good thread sealant for gasoline parts. Yellow teflon tape is made to seal natural gas fittings, not gasoline. Gas versus liquid sealing is completely different. It will not resist.
As for the petcock, teflon tape would be fine there.

pron022020

Finished reinstalling the rebuilt rear end on my 27 Coupe. Made sure everything was OK and put new thrust washers, bearing sleeves, seals, and brakes on. Much better. Now I am trying to finish working on the visor frame, just welded a new tab on to replace a missing one. Have to make the corner brac...

pron022020

Glsd I could be of assistance. Taught to me by an old timer.

pron022020

Radius rods are not attached right now. I will take a peak at the inner seals and maybe make some mods. It sounds like to me that I might be OK at least if I understand what John is saying. The mesh is good and it is an even tightness all the way around - no binding points. I will still probably tak...

pron022020

Original pinion bearing. Most everything in the set up is original save for outer bearing sleeves, seals, and new brass thrust washers.

pron022020

Here is some more information and answers. This is with an original matched set ring and pinion from the same rear end. I guess some clearance is going to happen because of wear. Maybe binding isn't the correct word, more like an even tightness all around but it still can be turned just very hard. W...

pron022020

I am in the process of rebuilding my rear axle and I have almost finished. I have barely any endplay that is within specs but now there is binding as opposed to earlier when I had a little more endplay than I like. This is with an original ring and pinion, new seals, and original hyatt bearings. It ...

pron022020

Like many things, sandblasting requires someone who knows what they are doing. It is quite simple actually and most of the horror stories come from shops that don't do a lot of sheet metal work or by people who just picked up the nozzle and have no idea. Pressure is what causes the warping, not heat...

pron022020

I am going to go the other direction and say go the 3xtra mile. If you are restoring the car, do it right and remove as much of the rust as possible (sandblasting is the best). I am not a fan of rust converters or preventers. Professional shops that restore lots of cars don't use it for a reason.

pron022020

Has anyone had any experience with the reproduction visor frames? I am having a hard time tracking down an original and an original that isn't all rusted out.

pron022020

Sorry to hear, the folks at Langs are the best.

pron022020

Don't cheap out is my advice. Good coat of a good epoxy primer holds up very well and top coat it woth a good paint.

pron022020

I am going to stray from the group and relay my experience with powder coating on many Model A wheels. First thing to know is that there are different levels of quality with powder just like paint. It is anybody's guess what each individual company uses. Second off is that I can tell right off the b...

pron022020

I thought that you have to use a battery box like ford did to clamp it down. A battery won't get you to the right height period.

pron022020

I personally wouldn't cut the old ball off and weld a new one on. If that were to fail then you have no steering and are most likely dead. I'd rather spend the time welding and filing the ball.

pron022020

Depends what kind of paint you are using. Lacquer, enamel, or urethane?

pron022020

My kick panels are a little long on the bottom so I am wondering if that portion gets covered over by the carpet?

pron022020

Does anybody have some pictures of the installed kick panels on a 26 or 27 Coupe?

pron022020

I did both sides and the whole length of the rear spring on my Model A last year and it has become a lot more sensitive although it is starting to settle. That advice might hold water. One thing I would not do is use grease or oil as lubrication as it attracts dirt. The exception being if you have a...

pron022020

Not hard at all. Just a punch from the opposite side of the race. Hit it equally on both sides and it should come out pretty easy. The other thing to watch for is loose races, especially the inners. Mine spun and so we had to punch the inside and use loctite.

pron022020

I just rebuilt my front end on my 27 and decided to reuse the outers as they were still good (inners were broke in pieces). I think the inner bearings take most of the force and abuse. I might revisit some day down the road if I am able to get a set, easy enough to change.

pron022020

Most of the times while working on my all original 27 recently, the lockwashers split into two upon being taken apart. Sometimes they come out in one piece, but some are flat. It is getting rare for them to be reusuable.

pron022020

For what it is worth as someone who has been thru several different cars and leaf spring problems, it seems that leaf springs can only flex so many times until they flatten out. I have tried having shops rearch them hot and cold and they both eventually flatten back out. I think a new front spring i...

pron022020

In my Classitique kit I only got the material to cover the steel with, no cardboard pieces for that.

pron022020

Does anybody know where I can get the pieces of steel that get wrapped with upholstery and then popped into place on the quarter window moldings for my 27 Coupe? My originals are long gone.

pron022020

My 27 coupe built in March has wood around the quarter windows as well.

pron022020

Might be a dud that was meant to be thrown away, likely an older repop (by dud I mean they accidentally engraved it in the wrong position).

pron022020

That doesn't look like the modern replacements, more like an older lesser quality one. The caps were never perfect seals to the tube. I suggest buying a new one from Snyders as I did and have no problems.

pron022020

Well the interesting thing is I took the welting off and it made no difference. And by welting I mean the stuff on the inside of the door that seals to the cowl. The windlace on the other side makes no difference. My vote is on the door panel but it doesn't make sense that I am having trouble with i...

pron022020

Here are some more pics. The door closed fine before the new upholstery and welting.

pron022020

The body blocks are there and tight. Not sure if there are shims there but there probably are. I think the blocks are original and have never been taken apart.

pron022020

I can't get the passenger side door to close with new welting and door panel. It appears the door is too close to the subrail by the lower hinge and bottom of the door panel is causing it not to latch. The hinges look perfectly straight and not bent and the door is rock solid to the cowl. Taking out...

pron022020

I ended up doing the best I could with what I had as I could have used a little more material. But the result looks great and it will work for an all original car.

pron022020

I moved the panel back as far as I could to the bend at the back and mounted the wood. The material will only come up to where it is at in the pictures. Is this a problem?

pron022020

This is what I got. The flat part has cardboard backing on it but I am wondering why the material doesn't go further up? I was comparing the piece for the lower window and it seems like there will be enough but it doesn't seem right that it would be two pieces? Also, I have this upper backrest piece...

pron022020

Looking for some pictures/advice on how the upholstery is glued to the package tray. I have the later steel one with the single wood bar on the front.

pron022020

Small cracks, yes. Big large cracks, no.

pron022020

The thing about rattle can paint is that it has very little solvent resistance and uv inhibitor, unlike 2k paint. I would never paint anything on the body with it. Even Henry's lacquer and enamel had better solvent resistance than rattle can.

pron022020

Imron was a good, tough paint. I used it on the floor registers for our 1908 House. Stuff barely is scratched or chipped anywhere after over 30 years.
Nothing comes close these days.

pron022020

It depends. Different shops charge different labor amounts and use different products. Some guys are willing to have you do some of the work as they teach which saves money.

pron022020

Okay that sounds good. Are the repros pretty good quality? Have heard mixed response.
I pulled the passenger side out and it works as it should. It does look a little different though, I think the other one is replacement from years back.

pron022020

So I pulled the driver side regulator out of my 27 Coupe and I think I figured out why the glass fell to the bottom of the door. It looks like somebody did a homemade repair to it by brazing part of it in place. The shaft has a bunch of play in it, and it doesn't feel like there is any notch inside ...

pron022020

Looks like my current shade was about 26 inches, so that is what I need. I am assuming if I wanted to I could take the shade off of the reproduction roller and put it on my original?
https://www.modeltford.com/item/A48300-26GRY.aspx

pron022020

I have my original window shade (at least I think it is, It has some older replacement fabric on it from the 50s or 60s) and I need to get some new fabric for it. I am going along with light grey for the headliner and from what I have seen the shade is supposed to match? Should I order an assembly f...

pron022020

Different tints and binders with base vs single stage. It won't directly transfer over but they could probably do the work and make it in single stage.

pron022020

Hey it works! You are not hitting the glass with a hammer, just the dolly which is on the channel. The glass stays in place on the workbench with the c clamp and block of wood as mentioned before. Simply the best and safest way to get it out.

pron022020

Take a flat dolly and lay it on the glass up against the channel. And then take a hammer and whack the dolly toward the channel to get the glass to slide out.

pron022020

The way we did ours was to take and clamp a piece of wood over the glass to a bench with the channel hanging off. Then you take a dolly and whack the channel off with a hammer going evenly on each side.

pron022020

I am doing exactly what you are doing right now with my 27 coupe. I used my original channels and they cleaned up well with only a few pinholes in the driver side one. It doesn't affect the performace at all.

pron022020

Thanks for the measurements, I am also looking for the location of the rivet hole for the strut?

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