MTFCA Forum

Found this on Atlanta Ga Craigslist, looks like Steve may be in the car wash business.

Looking for a head light switch for a 15 Thanks, Bob at nine O three 824-1949.

Good for temp up to 500F.

I use a scotch bright and lacquer thinner to clean the ribbon once it is straight and don’t forget every other coil raps opposite.

Jeff, being careful, unroll the coil then put one end in a vice and stretch the copper about 4 to 6 inches. This make it very straight. You will need a board a little longer than the stretched copper and carefully lay the copper on a board and apply the heat resistant Mylar tape to both sides and th...

Bought a car with a engine knock. Pulled the inspection pan and sure enough number one was loose. Pulled the head, got the rod out, miked the crank and was very lucky. Pulled the transmission cover and to my surprise, it was not lint in the oil tube it was a piece of RTV. Looking at the inside of th...

Looking for an after market oiler. Either the Texas T type that requires cutting the transmission cover or the transmission inspection cover type. Bob at nineO3-824-1949. Thanks

Sorry for the delay, sometimes life gets in the way of the important stuff.

I have bought a little 15 roadster that has a broken top bow. I see sets of three for sale, but I only need one. Anyone know who bends top bows? And one of the saddles is missing, need one of them. Thanks for your time, Bob. 903-824-one 949

Did a T ever leave the factory with a spare tire mounted on a carrier? My question; Were all spare holders aftermarket? What year is this for?

Gone to a great home.

Just got off the phone Mike, South of Houston. He wants the automobile. Thanks to all.

A solid car with new motor,transmission,ft and rear axles. Interior is good starts on mag. $8500 call and we’ll converse. Thanks, Bob at 903 eight24-1949 thanks 78A9CA0A-4528-4845-BA75-8898D9264399.jpeg 1615AAE6-26A6-49DD-ACFC-4A127DB9FBD4.jpeg 7AD74353-A155-4DC6-A798-5EC58C81A7F7.jpeg EE6CF7AD-E653...

I believe the automobile is a Centerdoor.

You’ll need Clear(no knots) Northern, straight grained, kiln dried Hickory. Google ( hardwood Houston area) or what ever part of the world your in. Hardwood is generally sold in random widths and is straight lined on one side, widths will vary down the board. I buy eight quarter (two inch thick) by ...

George and anyone else, I’ve got a lathe and press your welcome to use, just bring your hickory and come on. This fall the temperature will be nicer. Bob @ 903-824-1949

Do you bow the support rod to install them?

Where in Texas is he going, traveling on US 59?

This is out of order, you must cut the angles on the blank first in order to chuck into the lathe. The little gizmo on the jig is just a fast way to locate the center on the pin end of the blank.

1B348AE0-5C6C-4075-B5B9-06C5D6171EBD.jpeg A0C07923-DF7A-4D45-BFA7-18CF295D2F89.jpeg 0EEC50DF-85F8-4C94-9797-3CC7D66EF791.jpeg 619E2A24-632F-4DC0-B60D-5216800C351A.jpeg CA2344B5-643F-47A6-BCEE-DC33AF43515B.jpeg . This works for me, but warning it gets boring very quickly. The blank is 1-5/16 X 1-13/...

Need help with dating this Mercury body. It’s on a 26 chassis, but I know it’s earlier than that.

Doing instrument repair back in the day, 1/3 each of distilled water, Parson’s ammonia, Mr. Clean. 24 hr max as it will eat brass If left for weeks. Keep it covered, and use in a well vented area.

A steel rod turned to .740 and long enough to go through the four rods is an easy check for rod straightness once the rods are fitted to the crank.

image.jpg f image.jpg [attachment=0]image.jpg A pin dent tool is the easiest, least destructive way I have ever used to get the little pins out. Almost every body shop has one and I bet they would help you out, just for the bragging rights. Around here the pin tools are around $100 at pawn shops. H...

I ‘gotta’ ask, if you cut an X that big in a rod, are you doing more harm than good? look at the surface area of the bearing that’s lost. The X lets oil in, but also gives the oil a path out under pressure. In my mind the film strength of the oil is what prevents metal to metal contact (bearing fail...

I ‘gotta’ ask, if you cut an X that big in a rod, are you doing more harm than good? look at the surface area of the bearing that’s lost. The X lets oil in, but also gives the oil a path out under presure

The automobile is nice, but look at this listing for that area.

Very nice craftsmanship, your an asset to the hobby.

Your car is trying to tell you, you Are you trying to keep the coolant level too high. Try a 1/4 to a 1/3 down to allow for movement and expansion. The automobile will find the level that suits it. And I too am betting the pump isn’t all it’s cracked up to be.

If you buy an Optima 6 volt battery you’ll be set for years. I’ve got some that are from 2012 and work like new.

How great is it when someone making a livelihood doing something gives trade secrets (info) to help others. Ron, YOU are a stand-up guy!

There is a reason for hickory, have you ever seen a maple hammer or axe handle in commercial production? Or any other wood?

The pin has a clearance fit in the crankshaft. The crankshaft pulley has one clearance hole and the hole 180* to that, that is too small for the pin to go through. The pin is kept in place using a cotter pin on the big hole end on the inside of the pulley.

Did you check the end gap on the rings by putting a ring in the cylinder and pushing down just a little with a piston, to square it up, and using a feeler gauge to check the end gap? Should have a gap of between .012 and .020 And it should be a constant measurement up and down the cylinders.

Yes, I’m in total agreement with you Dan. The little broken lines must not be worn- see the last picture, if the shell are good, the rough broken seams will interlock and line up the shells. This is also why I’ve had no luck with babbitting the early iron shells, by the time you bore the for Babbitt...

Be glad to help but I’d need the shaft for proper fit. 903-824-1949

Whoa!! Your not seriously think of running that poor engine with loose-missing parts floating around in it, are you? You are sitting on a bomb. Please think of all the could go wrong.

Around ‘72, quail hunting in Foard County Texas, still have the automobile but less hair. Me behind the the wheel

Saw this small block Chevy crank at the scrap yard. Still in the block, is worn over 3/8 of an inch at that one rod.

I’m betting that with the increased diameter of the wheel as opposed to the motor pulley it gave that pump a workout. Thanks for the picture.

Using Mylar tape to insulate the wire, then rapping the coils with 3M glass cloth electrical tape and putting a paper washer under the coil. Blasting the ring and putting it together then I take the assembly to an electric motor rebuild shop in Oil City LA. To me this is the important part of the bu...

Don’t forget the screws and if you or a friend has a lathe, making a few spools out of brass is a easy way to get the balance spot on.

That porous material In the tank is asbestos.

The ball bearing on the brush end and the brass bushing replacing the Babbitt bushing that carries the starter drive, that you provide, have got to be marked improvements over factory production. Sir, I’ve seen your work, your too modest.

I’m betting your improved performance is because every thing has been straightened, a lined, polished, with new proper fitting bearings/bushings. Insuring proper contact and free movement. You got more than paid for, better than it came the Ford factory.

Google; model a wheels on a model t. Click on the top link, The 2015 post has some pictures of adapters, some nice work.

3E91D9AE-317C-4900-A19F-90DC83DC17E6.jpeg Found some stuff at the scrapyard and need to know what hooks to the cone shaped piece to drive the cutter. It’s some sort of shaft, I’m guessing, can someone post a picture of theirs? Also what are the three holders on the left for? Anybody know the purpos...

Is it advisable to insulate the capacitor before repotting tar?

you can carefully weld the pedal and dress to where you have full contact. It’s a slow process, but the end result is close to new.

If you end up removing the starter, remember you must first remove the starter bendix or you will mess up the mag coils.

Someone with a torch can braze the handle, dressed down it wouldn’t be noticeable. Be glad to do it for you, Bob 903-824-1949

I use these sticks to tin with, poured in a cold rod they always look like this on the back. I do not tin, but I

always preheat the block and mold.

If your looking at having a camshaft ground, Norfleet Machine, 8323 Hoyle ave Dallas Tx, dose nice work for just a few $$. 214-381-1177. No connection, just a good guy to work with.

OK , one must remember, a secure jack stand should be used in this procedure. By lifting the right rear wheel, putting the leaver in high gear and cranking over the engine thus spinning the right rear wheel, the air should become more turbulent on the carburetor side of the automobile which in theor...

In my youth I had a Marion Handley rolling chaise that had Continental Red Seal. Placing a cup of water on the running engine, it barely made ripples.

Dose the Mag ring have a starter notch?

Please post pictures of a by gone era

Shreveport

I have never seen a ridge in a T cylinder. The piston clears the top of the cylinder on each stroke. Thus no ridge?

Just a reminder, you must remove the starter drive, (Bendix) before the starter will come out.

It’s posts from Hap and others that has made us all feel like we’re part of family.

http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/80 ... 1262285830

. Thanks again

Thanks, Is it a right hand thread? Thanks again.

[attachment=1]image.jpg I’m trying to take a starter drive apart. Dose the bearing press off?

Jim, if you wish to demagnetize the shaft, you can use an armature growler. Switch it on, pull the shaft through and move it away and presto the shaft is no longer a magnet.

What is the preferred radius of a T crankshaft? Thanks for your time and help. Bob 903 824 1949

The old forums are a wealth of information. Easy to google.

Google. Champion x spark plug: smooth versus ribbed insulator. It brings up a oct 9 2009 forum that has an add for the plug.

What year is this?

In the 80’s my dad bought a new Mercury sedan, talking to him on the phone after the purchase, he said he had figured out just about everything except the light on the dash of the little man sitting on the commode. Honest to God, he told me he guessed the little light (seat belt warning) was to remi...

This about 1955 in rural Texas. My grandparents lived in a community they called Five In One, a cotton gin and a small general store that doubled as a domino hall, was all that made up the business district. On one of our many visits my dad realized we didn’t have enough gas to make the 20+ mile tri...

With the head and gasket setting on the block, drop a bolt in the hole and there should be a minimum of 6/10 of a inch of bolt shaft above the head. That will equate to a thread engagement of about 8 and a half threads. And to compound the situation your dealing with 100 year old cast and possibly u...

The rod pictured has no babbitt it was used for setup. The fixture clamps the rod using pins and the large bolts on either side of aviation socket head bolts, cut flat on the inside of the head to go into the rod. The long, splicing nuts are used with a gauge block to check the straight and twist of...

The shaft should have a radius of 1/16 at the rod pins so I cut just a tad over a 1/16. Very nice looking pour, please show us your set up. Also the fixture for boring the rods. Bob 903 824 1949

So, what is the number of the seal with the proper OD?

I was at Fort Rucker, Alabama learning how to repair UH-1 helicopters and decrease the worlds population.

I know nothing from nothing, spent most of my school years under a car. The Army only taught me how to kill and repair UH-1’s so not much help there. When I try to access the forum via Google MTFCA nothing, blank page. BUT, went to my browsers history clicked on an old forum topic and bingo, I’m in....

When the flywheel stops at any position after a gentle turn and doesn’t move on it’s own.

OK, here’s the dill pickle. When the triple gears were added, everything went South. The gears are with in 8 grams of each other, but made a big difference in the balance no matter how I placed them. The balance improved by changing their location, but was still not acceptable. I’m thinking the gear...

Hank, don’t your little plates look pretty, Thanks again. It is very simple and is done while on the balancer. Very easy to cut different weights beforehand and takes only a minute or two to change them out. Of course balancing done before height rechecked and the screws peened.

Is there any reason to not use brass spools to balance a flywheel?

I’ll take it. Bob Shirley. 903-824-1949

Dose it have the plugs for priming on the side of the head?

Thanks for the offer George. Hank fixed me up with some really nice ones.

Please post tips that make things easier IE, Use an opened old magazine under gaskets, when applying sealant. When through just turn the page and the mess is sealed in.

I’m with John, please post a picture of your cutter, the model number and where to purchase. Thanks

The little steel plates the brass screws hold on. Some that are not pitted and not worn by rubbing on the coils. Bob at 903-824-1949

I did this on a ‘15 and when you go with a later flywheel don’t you have to use a later coil ring?

I’ve used the cheap cat litter from Walmart with good results. When there is no liquid remaining, put down fresh and grind it in the stain with your foot. Remember, to dispose of all contaminated materials as per the guidelines of the EPA. Sure would hate to hear you ended up on San Quentin death ro...

Please show the set-up you use to run your shaft in.

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. Got about 150 lbs left that nickel this is not about that. This is about the first picture, I was asking is, has anyone used the lead test kits to see what they have.

I’m with you when you say, know what you are buying. And not too long ago I lucked into 200+ lbs and got the MSD sheet. But I have been given and found a lot of Babbitt over the years. The Lead Test kit showed the Frictionless and the Magnolia not to have lead. The other pieces did have lead.

Anybody ever use a lead test kit to check babbitt? The gun at the scrap yard is broken.

Ran the 15 motor a few more times.

Trying to get at least .045-.050 babbitt In the rod. Ending with 1.350 rough bore. Cut from .015 to .025. Balance will be addressed after they are poured and cut. Thoughts?

The cover was centered when installe, cam re-ground, checked for straight re-poured cam bearings— the spring just shaped. Ruxstel, guess you get the bubblegum. I’d post a picture of a timing gear from back in the day but, I don’t know how. Thanks to all, for your input.

Thanks for the replies.

The fiber gears I have from the 60’s have a slick finish and look nothing like the one in the picture. Why is the pictured one eaten off the side, must not have had mesh?? Ok here’s the tail— the Spring on the new timer roller broke and the roller was only making random contact. The fix was to bend ...

Getting closer, at this point it was on mag with no provision for batt. Coils checked on a hcct— all ok. Pulled the plugs looked ok, no black soot laid them on the block, spun the motor and had random firings.

The motor is on a stand the fuel tank is about a foot above the carburetor with a 1/4 inch line feeding the carburetor. The carburetor was adjusted and it was running nice. I really like the old fiber gears, they are tough as nails and run so quite. The motor did not seize and fuel flow not an issue...

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