MTFCA Forum

If you still got it I’ll take it, Bob at nine o3-824-1949

Started messing with T’s back in the early 60’s in the small town on Crowell Texas. An old man had this 13 and hired me to help him set the body on in the summer of 63 or 64. Instead of cash he paid me with parts for a 27. 42BB-8779-4BD22ADB547A.png[/attachment] F474CB10-8684-42BB-8779-4BD22ADB547A....

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Sounds like a home run to me. Whatever works is generally the best method and solution. Did you put a block in the channel to pinching together? Just a question from the peanut gallery.

No lock washers or lock nuts. I use the stock Chevy nuts that came on the bolts, the nuts are taller and have 2 or 3 more threads than a standard nut. They hold just fine when properly torqued.

I crank them down same as a grade 8—38 flbs on a clean, dry thread. Chevy small block specks say 40-45.

I have used them for years, no issues, perfect for me, your mileage may vary.

Pawn shops are a good source for quality Victor welding torches and regulations at a very fair price in my area.

Click on the link an it will take you to the story, thanks to my bride. https://www.hagerty.com/media/automotiv ... er_Weekend

https://www.hagerty.com/media/automotiv ... er_Weekend Here is a link to the story——I Think!

I’m on Hagerty Ins email list. They send out some neat stories. There is one up there now about T snowmobile conversions. Very interesting. Just a heads-up.

5FBEE7EF-2B0B-43B2-A082-2E76929860AA.png . The sleeve crimps over a notch in the crank. And it’s not hard to split the tube, close it and tig it back. I’m was just hoping to find a tube stock the proper size. If you have a frozen sleeve on an otherwise good crank you can use a small hammer and tap ...

Clean a place on iron of the mag ring and see if you have continuity through the coils. If it’s good there then all you have to do is pull the transmission assembly, pull the mag ring and clean the mounting surface of the ring and block. You may need to re shim the ring, as the lacquer coating can b...

Anyone building cranks? If so what are you using for the sleeve? The only thing I’ve come up with cutting down some non-galvanized tubing, any ideas? The crank is 3/4 cold roll. Bob at 9othree 824 194nine.

I’ll bite, Terry what are you looking for?

I need a NH if anyone has an extra. Dirty, rusty is ok, if complete, I’m looking for something cheap. Thanks, Bob at 903-eight24-1949

In the summer of 1964 I had a 55 gallon drum of caustic soda - water mix, a miracle solution, I thought at the time, that I put T parts in for about a week, the parts looked brand new when removed and washed off with water. I probably had the cleanest Holley vaporizer in all of Texas. Only one probl...

Please post a picture— pictures of your Fire truck.

What part of the world was it stolen from?

I have the two rear and the right front, no rot still in factory green paint. These are not bent up. Call me if you need them. Bob at 903-824-1949

Need a set of bands. Kevlar linings would sure be a plus. Please call me with what you got. Thanks, Bob at 90three-824-1949

This is a scrap of 2.25 cold roll about 1.75 long. Bored to 1.1 inch and drilled and taped for a 5/16 bolt. The loop is made from a flower arrangement holder that the local cemetery discards when the get a little rusty. 932F9DE3-3B95-4F14-9E85-5905B25819FD.jpeg . Call if I can help, Bob at nine o 3-...

this little tool, sure made setting coil ring a lot easier. The bolt locks in the hole in the shaft. No more strong arm lifting the flywheel.

big2bird I just about fell out when I read your post———THANK YOU so much.

To check to make sure, take play-doh the kids stuff, roll it out in pancake form about 1/4 inch thick and cover the top of the piston with the piston at the full top position. Set the head on without a gasket and put a few bolts in and snug them. The thickness that the play-doh smashes to is the run...

The 17 roadster for $425. You could have bough a new 18 for $500. I guess used car sales people back then were much the same as they are now.

Is it possible to tighten the rivets? Or what is the best fix? Thanks for all the info. Bob @ 903-824-194nine.

On this box they look to be welded, how that was done without burning the wood must have been a trade secret.

Bought this coil box off the forum, got it yesterday. The guy said nothing about the mounting brackets being loose. My question; is there anyway to tighten the brackets?

What carburetor are you looking for tools for?

. Bob at nine o 3. 8 two 4. Nineteen 49.

The automobile is a Dec 24 1912 build the ID plate number is not the same as the motor number. The plate is offset about a half an inch to the left of center of the column. The plate number is 168164, the first one looks the same but, it is not black.?? The motor number is 180571. The automobile has...

Not on a 26-27 for sure. The Coupe body’s are welded construction and built like a Sherman tank.

Is the firewall hole pattern the same for a Kingston and Heinze Coil Box? This is on a December 1912 car—- early 13.

An easy way to check the rods for straightness

I made a few ventures using the specs in the Carburetor book. $35 shipped or will trade for??? Also build the tools to get in to a G, if needed.

call me @ nine o 3 824-1949. Happy motoring, Bob

Mark, at that speed you might just qualify for a mechanic position at an early Ford dealership.

For a Holley G, an hour and a half I’ll never get back.

You should do your homework! PLEASE, this is what the forum is all about, please, please ask questions. That’s how we all learn, and share information.

JP-4 is the fuel the turbo Agcat crop dusters use. They come in to the Atlanta airport in the late winter to fertilize the pine trees. I have a fuel tear shaped tank from an old tractor that has two compartments, Free, if anyone needs one.

Back in the early 60’s I would hear tails form the old timers about running Model T’s on kerosene. They said once the engine was warm a T would do just fine on kerosene. These were the old men who sat on the old wood bench in front of the drugstore almost every day. WELL, I ran the T out of gas righ...

Richard, very nice repair, as the old man that got me started in this 57 years ago always said— make it look like it was done on purpose. You have succeeded. My hat is off to a lot of you guys. Thank you all for sharing your knowledge.

Thanks Guys, had to dig it out. Made a couple of tools to finish getting it apart and all went well after the tube.

Most any competent machine shop will not cut a head too far. Take it to your machine shop and let them work their Magic. Be sure to chaise the threads in the block, use Copper Coat if your reusing an old gasket and don’t exceed 55 lbs with a clean dry thread. And that 55 is my upper most limit With ...

How do I get the black cone out?

I removed the wire keeper, but cone is sure stuck.

8D0B65D2-8444-4BDD-9E15-EAE5284DFF14.png 0AC8E722-EDB8-43C8-BB59-6DE448284A14.jpeg By the authority vested in me by a this bunch of outlaws,I hereby grant you permission to use those classic plugs in in your automobile. They should work just fine with a little cleaning. You might try a cotton buffi...

Looking for a really nice hood for a 15. Bob at nine zero three 824 nineteen forty nine.

Can someone please tell me what carburetor this is? I need a needle and seat and the float is broken- thanks to me! The aftermarket tag says Kingston, but which one? On the casting inside the bowl there is a big 4.

Found this on Atlanta Ga Craigslist, looks like Steve may be in the car wash business.

Looking for a head light switch for a 15 Thanks, Bob at nine O three 824-1949.

Good for temp up to 500F.

I use a scotch bright and lacquer thinner to clean the ribbon once it is straight and don’t forget every other coil raps opposite.

Jeff, being careful, unroll the coil then put one end in a vice and stretch the copper about 4 to 6 inches. This make it very straight. You will need a board a little longer than the stretched copper and carefully lay the copper on a board and apply the heat resistant Mylar tape to both sides and th...

Bought a car with a engine knock. Pulled the inspection pan and sure enough number one was loose. Pulled the head, got the rod out, miked the crank and was very lucky. Pulled the transmission cover and to my surprise, it was not lint in the oil tube it was a piece of RTV. Looking at the inside of th...

Looking for an after market oiler. Either the Texas T type that requires cutting the transmission cover or the transmission inspection cover type. Bob at nineO3-824-1949. Thanks

Sorry for the delay, sometimes life gets in the way of the important stuff.

I have bought a little 15 roadster that has a broken top bow. I see sets of three for sale, but I only need one. Anyone know who bends top bows? And one of the saddles is missing, need one of them. Thanks for your time, Bob. 903-824-one 949

Did a T ever leave the factory with a spare tire mounted on a carrier? My question; Were all spare holders aftermarket? What year is this for?

Gone to a great home.

Just got off the phone Mike, South of Houston. He wants the automobile. Thanks to all.

A solid car with new motor,transmission,ft and rear axles. Interior is good starts on mag. $8500 call and we’ll converse. Thanks, Bob at 903 eight24-1949 thanks 78A9CA0A-4528-4845-BA75-8898D9264399.jpeg 1615AAE6-26A6-49DD-ACFC-4A127DB9FBD4.jpeg 7AD74353-A155-4DC6-A798-5EC58C81A7F7.jpeg EE6CF7AD-E653...

I believe the automobile is a Centerdoor.

You’ll need Clear(no knots) Northern, straight grained, kiln dried Hickory. Google ( hardwood Houston area) or what ever part of the world your in. Hardwood is generally sold in random widths and is straight lined on one side, widths will vary down the board. I buy eight quarter (two inch thick) by ...

George and anyone else, I’ve got a lathe and press your welcome to use, just bring your hickory and come on. This fall the temperature will be nicer. Bob @ 903-824-1949

Do you bow the support rod to install them?

Where in Texas is he going, traveling on US 59?

This is out of order, you must cut the angles on the blank first in order to chuck into the lathe. The little gizmo on the jig is just a fast way to locate the center on the pin end of the blank.

1B348AE0-5C6C-4075-B5B9-06C5D6171EBD.jpeg A0C07923-DF7A-4D45-BFA7-18CF295D2F89.jpeg 0EEC50DF-85F8-4C94-9797-3CC7D66EF791.jpeg 619E2A24-632F-4DC0-B60D-5216800C351A.jpeg CA2344B5-643F-47A6-BCEE-DC33AF43515B.jpeg . This works for me, but warning it gets boring very quickly. The blank is 1-5/16 X 1-13/...

Need help with dating this Mercury body. It’s on a 26 chassis, but I know it’s earlier than that.

Doing instrument repair back in the day, 1/3 each of distilled water, Parson’s ammonia, Mr. Clean. 24 hr max as it will eat brass If left for weeks. Keep it covered, and use in a well vented area.

A steel rod turned to .740 and long enough to go through the four rods is an easy check for rod straightness once the rods are fitted to the crank.

image.jpg f image.jpg [attachment=0]image.jpg A pin dent tool is the easiest, least destructive way I have ever used to get the little pins out. Almost every body shop has one and I bet they would help you out, just for the bragging rights. Around here the pin tools are around $100 at pawn shops. H...

I ‘gotta’ ask, if you cut an X that big in a rod, are you doing more harm than good? look at the surface area of the bearing that’s lost. The X lets oil in, but also gives the oil a path out under pressure. In my mind the film strength of the oil is what prevents metal to metal contact (bearing fail...

I ‘gotta’ ask, if you cut an X that big in a rod, are you doing more harm than good? look at the surface area of the bearing that’s lost. The X lets oil in, but also gives the oil a path out under presure

The automobile is nice, but look at this listing for that area.

Very nice craftsmanship, your an asset to the hobby.

Your car is trying to tell you, you Are you trying to keep the coolant level too high. Try a 1/4 to a 1/3 down to allow for movement and expansion. The automobile will find the level that suits it. And I too am betting the pump isn’t all it’s cracked up to be.

If you buy an Optima 6 volt battery you’ll be set for years. I’ve got some that are from 2012 and work like new.

How great is it when someone making a livelihood doing something gives trade secrets (info) to help others. Ron, YOU are a stand-up guy!

There is a reason for hickory, have you ever seen a maple hammer or axe handle in commercial production? Or any other wood?

The pin has a clearance fit in the crankshaft. The crankshaft pulley has one clearance hole and the hole 180* to that, that is too small for the pin to go through. The pin is kept in place using a cotter pin on the big hole end on the inside of the pulley.

Did you check the end gap on the rings by putting a ring in the cylinder and pushing down just a little with a piston, to square it up, and using a feeler gauge to check the end gap? Should have a gap of between .012 and .020 And it should be a constant measurement up and down the cylinders.

Yes, I’m in total agreement with you Dan. The little broken lines must not be worn- see the last picture, if the shell are good, the rough broken seams will interlock and line up the shells. This is also why I’ve had no luck with babbitting the early iron shells, by the time you bore the for Babbitt...

Be glad to help but I’d need the shaft for proper fit. 903-824-1949

Whoa!! Your not seriously think of running that poor engine with loose-missing parts floating around in it, are you? You are sitting on a bomb. Please think of all the could go wrong.

Around ‘72, quail hunting in Foard County Texas, still have the automobile but less hair. Me behind the the wheel

Saw this small block Chevy crank at the scrap yard. Still in the block, is worn over 3/8 of an inch at that one rod.

I’m betting that with the increased diameter of the wheel as opposed to the motor pulley it gave that pump a workout. Thanks for the picture.

Using Mylar tape to insulate the wire, then rapping the coils with 3M glass cloth electrical tape and putting a paper washer under the coil. Blasting the ring and putting it together then I take the assembly to an electric motor rebuild shop in Oil City LA. To me this is the important part of the bu...

Don’t forget the screws and if you or a friend has a lathe, making a few spools out of brass is a easy way to get the balance spot on.

That porous material In the tank is asbestos.

The ball bearing on the brush end and the brass bushing replacing the Babbitt bushing that carries the starter drive, that you provide, have got to be marked improvements over factory production. Sir, I’ve seen your work, your too modest.

I’m betting your improved performance is because every thing has been straightened, a lined, polished, with new proper fitting bearings/bushings. Insuring proper contact and free movement. You got more than paid for, better than it came the Ford factory.

Google; model a wheels on a model t. Click on the top link, The 2015 post has some pictures of adapters, some nice work.

3E91D9AE-317C-4900-A19F-90DC83DC17E6.jpeg Found some stuff at the scrapyard and need to know what hooks to the cone shaped piece to drive the cutter. It’s some sort of shaft, I’m guessing, can someone post a picture of theirs? Also what are the three holders on the left for? Anybody know the purpos...

Is it advisable to insulate the capacitor before repotting tar?

you can carefully weld the pedal and dress to where you have full contact. It’s a slow process, but the end result is close to new.

If you end up removing the starter, remember you must first remove the starter bendix or you will mess up the mag coils.

Someone with a torch can braze the handle, dressed down it wouldn’t be noticeable. Be glad to do it for you, Bob 903-824-1949

I use these sticks to tin with, poured in a cold rod they always look like this on the back. I do not tin, but I

always preheat the block and mold.

If your looking at having a camshaft ground, Norfleet Machine, 8323 Hoyle ave Dallas Tx, dose nice work for just a few $$. 214-381-1177. No connection, just a good guy to work with.

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