MTFCA Forum

Jonah! Welcome to bushing world. There are 20 total bushings on the front and rear running gear. If they are worn out they should be replaced. It makes a big difference in how your T drives and handles. Lang's sells a variety of bushing drivers that are worth getting. It is time-consuming to do the ...

I left hand crank but not in polite company.

Great work! That was fast, congratulations.

Thanks, I have been directed to https://www.lostakey.net/ and that it is a '1000 key for Yale and Towne Vintage padlocks and Yale Series 8' so here goes...

They have cheap metric ones on amazon. I found this SAE one on amazon is it any good? https://www.amazon.com/Allstar-ALL10122 ... ive&sr=1-1

So far this is a bust. I took it to a local locksmith. Ater a month they gave up on it saying they could not find a key blank for it and had thrown away their antique code books. They also could not pick it. I did clean out the key way and oil it they probably did too but so far nothing. The locksmi...

An important consideration is keeping the original geometry of the thing. If it is off it will behave or misbehave in strange ways.

I have.

Mark Osterman wrote: ↑
Thu Oct 08, 2020 8:00 pm
Does anyone actually remove and reinstall bands through the inspection cover? If not .. is there any advantage to bands with removable ears?

Jonah, Kevlar bands as far as anyone can tell are forever. It is a fair amount of work to change bands only because of the tight space. The "band changing tool" 3416T looks like a ribbon of steel, and the "band clamp and wrench tool" 3416TCW and a "Transmission Band Adjusting Tool MT-5407" is essent...

I bow to the thriftiest of all. :-) You can brush the insides with kerosene... [/size] ...but it's ungodly expensive. Paint thinner costs less, and diesel fuel. I haven't priced Stoddard solvent lately, but even that probably costs less than kerosene. IMG_5161 copy.JPG Brush, broom handle, used pain...

Ok a fair amount of rust but otherwise ok. You can brush the insides with kerosene to get any grease out. Use a cheap round toilet brush from the home store tie a string on it and run it through the tubes with kerosene on it. Any lumps on the walls you can get out of the tubes with a piece of pipe. ...

Does anyone know how well does Rust oleum white appliance epoxy do on wood spokes?

Hi Jonah any progress pictures?

Jonah I was thinking on your aluminum radiator you just received that if you attach a fake original radiator fill riser on the top of it like an original just for looks it would be relatively difficult to distinguish it from the real thing.

Really coming along Don! I notice that you have the same crummy canvas front seat cover like mine has. What is the timeline for completion?

RustyFords wrote: ↑
Wed Sep 30, 2020 11:18 pm
Success with the new stoplight switch, etc.

Interesting and does look nice. What if you want to do a box with rounded corners or a fancy curve? Yes. I have 3M adhesive backed pinstriping on mine. I used 1/8” wide gold. It comes all widths and colors, sticks on permanently and looks very nice. Jim Patrick FFA8EBEB-E3FA-4364-8C02-14E1DA6BBD41.j...

Also the right size round wire brush on a drill and an extension will work well for at least the length of your drill bit extension.

If you do Rustoleum Appliance Paint can you add pin stripes? If so, how? and I am not an artist.

Yes I made the same mistake just recently on Hay Wagon to Speedster Project. See my description above for a way to flip it back over.

Its_Always_T_Time wrote: ↑
Wed Sep 30, 2020 12:54 pm
By flipping I mean the grease cups are facing towards the floor and I want to flip it back so it's facing the sky.

To clean out the drive shaft you can use a piece of cable chucked into a drill. Spin it up and let it fray it should knock most of the rust off. You can use the same technique to clean the water jacket on the engine.

After you are sure that all the bolts are off and it is free on each end I would tap it with a hammer around the seam in the pumpkin to somewhat break it loose then pull on both ends. It should come off relatively easily. On the axles can you send pictures? How do you clean and break free a differen...

You can flip the drive shaft tube over. As you can see from this picture: https://www.mtfca.com/phpBB3/download/file.php?id=65457&mode=view the drive shaft tube is upside down. I turned it back over: Take the bolts out of the spool, take the radius rod bolts at the differential off. Put 2 smaller bo...

I can give you mine if you want it. It came with my touring originally and it should work. Having said that they don't fit particularly well. See this old thread of pictures with it installed as the car came to me. http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/599638/699294.html?1480963130 I ended up just bu...

What does the felt do? I see those holes in my 26-27 frame and wondered if I should put a zerk fitting and a grease gun. Thanks for the clarification.

There is a sentimental value for the family of these pieces so I am trying to preserve as many as I can. I have a welder and a tap and die set but I don't know if I have a tap big enough. I think I will try to build it back up and re-thread it.

I was finally able to get it off with a pipe wrench near the fitting so the rod doesn't twist. It turns freely now. I spun it out and cleaned the threads inside with a brass brush and a drill mounted steel brush for the rod threads. They look good. However, the other side non-adjustable tie rod fitt...

Mark the tie rod end that has the drift in it is already pre-boogered, the threads are long gone. I wonder if a tap would have enough metal for threads?

Mark Gregush wrote: ↑
Sun Sep 20, 2020 4:27 pm
Careful with the punch, don't booger up the thread in the bottom, then you will be looking for a tap.

XXXXXXXXXX

Hi my tie rod end is stuck. I've heated, I've penetrated oiled, I have twisted with a drift on the other side, I've stuck a chisel into the split, it won't budge. My vise is currently non-functional.

It is a lot of hammering even when the head is red hot to get one of these done.

We started riveting today. It does take 3 people. Three rivets done then we ran out of acetylene.

Front running gear is coming back together.

Hi all, I am unable to attend Luray but need a fender, skirt set and a speedster tool box for the Hay wagon to Speedster project. Items to be picked up and brought to any of the following states: Mississippi, Tennessee, Alabama, Georgia, Texas. Ultimate destination is Houston, Texas but an intermedi...

Steve Jelf, et al. You can use a refrigerator cardboard box, duct tape, a piece of plexiglass and some arm holes cut into the cardboard box to make a big, cheap sandblasting cabinet. I've done it before. It works. You are only limited by the size of the box you can get.

John T is likely to get the clean side in Mississippi, hope it works out ok.

See picture I have a 4 hole quadrant for a 2 hole frame. Possibilities: 1) Only put 2 rivets in (the outside holes line up with the frame holes) high five myself and call it a day. 2) Drill 2 more holes and put all 4 rivets in. 3) Get a 2 rivet quadrant which I don't have. Thoughts? Will a 4 hole qu...

More small parts, many that the frame was missing are back from the sandblaster/painter. I plan on 1926-27 chassis down, 1916 up above so I am probably going to use a late model engine mount. If you wonder why I have 12 solar power inverters in my garage by the frame on saw horses the answer is 'see...

Unfortunately it is a 13 tooth pinion so I have to split the halves to get it out. It is a Speedster so theoretically lighter than other models and I do plan some performance improvements on the engine. Also Texas isn't particularly hilly. :D Can't you remove the pinion housing bolts and the two rad...

How difficult/expensive is it to cosmetically fix something like this repair solder weld on a brass radiator?

So my cool girlfriend heard my comment that anyone who completes a model T differential rebuild should get a certificate. Well here they are. Model T University, Master of Model T Techology signed by Henry Ford. One for this one: http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/708324/713632.html?1490798775 "Cu...

Here is one: https://dragoneclassic.com/the-rip-van- ... el-t-ford/ There are others.

So I did not press the big drive shaft bushing in sufficiently. The pumpkin was already assembled so I had to pound it all the way with a big socket. It would not budge with about 2 millimeters left to align the u-joint pin so I had to shave a little off of the universal joint base to get it to fit....

Why do Steve Jelf's pictures and videos look so interesting? My guess is semi-retired sign-painter takes his time with composition?

Thanks, how or with what do you grind the dome shape? You can make your own bucking bar from a heavy piece of metal that fits the application. You can make a round half ball shaped hole by using a drill bit of the right diameter and grinding it to the shape that will make a half round hole. Place th...

Two month wait to get vinyl windows for my house manufactured and delivered. The local couch factory is making and selling product like gangbusters from people staying at home and spending government checks. My practice essential service never closed, numbers about average, and lately are over the t...

My whole frame https://www.mtfca.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=13134 was nearly all very old corroded bolts. Now after sandblasting and priming I am beginning to rivet which I have never done before. Unfortunately the 1/4 Lang's bucking bar https://www.modeltford.com/item/B-BAR-2.aspx is back order...

Great progress. On my first worn out T so many of the hub bolts were questionable that I just changed them all for new ones. On those better safe than sorry. The hubs were much more solid after changing for new ones. So close. Installed the rear axle today with the help of a neighbor. Second try we ...

Maybe because it is a comforting and very fun hobby that takes people away from all the problems in these days. I get into my garage and all the junk goes away.

And it is a working differential again:

Update: Spindles are on. I ended up using a 1/2 inch drill bit and a drill press because my cheap adjustable reamer broke a tooth. The 1/2 inch drill bit seemed to work fine on both the spindles and the Steven's tool insert. Little to no movement on the spindle bolt. The mostly small rusty chassis r...

Rear brake cam bushings are in. The first one went in ok with a hammer, the second didn't so I switched to threaded rod. The first rod wasn't big enough and eventually stripped, the second 3/4 inch bolt was plenty big enough and did the job. Then I reamed it a bunch with the hand reamer shown and it...

Hi, I am about to put my differential back together, trying for this weekend. Unfortunately I only have 4 studs (1 is chewed up so really 3) and 1 good bolt. I need either 2 bolts or 2 studs. These look uniquely tapered/specialized and are at least a week away if I order from Lang's. I am going to s...

One more gear and axle picture. Cleaned up, bronze thrust washers on. Will be functional as a differential again for the first time in over 57 years.

The drive shaft bushing is in and I am about to put the differential all back together. New sleeves are on the inner aspect, unlike what the picture shows the Hyatt bearings were all thoroughly cleaned and the inner one was installed a bit later. I discovered that at this time I may not have suffici...

I find this tool to be altogether pleasing, elegant, and entirely fitting for the purpose. Salute!

So they attached the tent ropes to the car on the other side and butted up the tent to the car it looks like. Thou shalt not comment on another persons spouse even if they lived 100 years ago and even though secretly I thought it was funny too.

Thanks for the tip I did it exactly like that and it went in what I think is pretty well. Here is a picture. I cranked it down until it really resisted and stopped so I think it is all the way in? You can see the hole to peen the universal joint rivet in the second picture. The threaded rod I bought...

Further progress:

Which way does the big drive shaft brass bushing go? I see a channel cut into it. Does the channel go up, down, sideways? I would presume up so when you grease it through the grease cup it goes more or less into the channel?

Yes I've been warned that 13 tooth is too big so you have to do one half at a time then bind the whole thing up in a crescendo of parts all having to go together at once while you keep the whole thing balanced on saw horses or the floor.

The front end of this shaft is good, fits, the right length, etc. The one with the rust and other problems was an imposter shaft (too long, too big, weird) posing as a model T shaft that came out when I went through my Touring some years ago. Best I can tell it was from a restoration in the 1970's. ...

Drive shaft follies are mostly over with Fun Projects spool and 13 gear pinion now on. Drive shaft bushing and further differential re-assembly next. https://www.mtfca.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=15153 Castle nut and other fastener assortment assortment with guide and links to summaries of sizes:...

Done! The bearing was just slightly too tight or the shaft was slightly too large. The shaft measured 1.035 OD and the bearing measured about 1.0 to 0.998 ish so I had to do some tedious sanding to take off just a bit then tapped it on with a hammer. The hardest part was torquing it to 70 lbs then r...

Further along in the drive shaft follies. I have a Fun Projects spool. I am following the written directions. The brass end sealed bearing and spool slide on to this correct drive shaft without difficulty. The Timken style bearing for the other side will not go further than the taper as shown in the...

Thanks for the tip on the puller. My 3 jaw puller was just big enough to do it and off it came!

Hoping that 9/16 18 thread is the rear radius rod part that attaches to the drive shaft tube.

Thank you for the list. My local True Value has castle nuts but often not in the thread pitch that a T uses, mostly coarse thread. As a result, I ordered from Lang's 5 of each common size 40 pieces is about $52 delivered to my house.

Hi George, all sizes if I knew in advance what I needed.

George House wrote: ↑
Sat Aug 22, 2020 5:34 pm
How many and what size castle nuts do you need Ignacio ? I’ve made it a point to collect and set aside T castle nuts over the years. Stop by on your next trip to SA...

Egads, please disregard the previous shaft. That was the old, weird drive shaft here https://www.mtfca.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=14379 that came with Shirley that I need to banish from my garage, put it in a 'safe' place or use as a toothpick. I re-found the correct shaft but I need to remove t...

Hi does anyone besides Mac's (18 front and back shackle only) sell a good Model T castle nut assortment set so that I don't have to go running to the hardware store 30 miles away or wait a week for mail-order? Thanks!

This will be a new brass bushing. I will need to ream it as it already just barely does not fit over the square part at this time. I have a set of reamers but I wonder if the reamer will catch on the 2 channels on either side of the brass bushing?

Better light and after wet sanding with 600 grit. Thoughts?

Edit: Changed the title to drive shaft follies. There is some rust on the shaft at the bushing that is a bit rough on one face, even after drill wire brush, see picture. Is it ruined get another?

Southwest galvanizing Houston Tx. Huge plant that charges by the pound. I have done 2 rim galvanizing cooperatives in past years. I am considering doing a 3rd.

Congratulations Jonah and welcome to the brother and sisterhood. That's a great car you have there.

'This item is no longer available.'

CudaMan wrote: ↑
Mon Aug 17, 2020 9:12 pm
https://www.onlytrains.com/model/trains/T1921RFD.html

That is intriguing. The passenger's side parts are intact but I don't know how to do CAD or a 3D printer. Most shape plastic parts can be 3D printed in good detail. Many colors and types of thermo plastic materials are available even elastomers and glow-in-the-dark. Affordable home printers can't ma...

Hi, as you can see this snowbird T has a missing/damaged front leaf spring, frame maybe, and missing front radius rod on the drivers side. I am wondering if it can be repaired or those parts replaced? If so how? The body is die-cast but the parts missing/damaged are plastic.

Take it to a radiator shop. They are super good at this kind of thing and should be able to repair it easily and well.

It would be immodest for me to divulge.

RustyFords wrote: ↑
Tue Aug 11, 2020 2:05 pm

ivaldes1 wrote: ↑
Thu Aug 06, 2020 6:52 pm
I've decided to wear it to church.
As a hat? A ring? A necklace?

Please elaborate.

Just for your information, the picture shows a 10 tooth pinion and a 40 tooth crown gear, a 11 tooth pinion and 40 tooth crown gear, and finally a 13 tooth pinion and 39 tooth crown gear. The 13:39 is going into hay wagon to speedster project.

So the steering gear cap on shaft 2 does not fit on column 1. The cap is slightly too small like 0.1 of an inch diameter. They both have 3 gears in them. I wonder why the size mis-match?

I thought it was a busted key too but it was just some crud. That's what I was thinking too getting an old school locksmith if I can find one. If someone has a clear picture of what the key might have looked like that would help. I've seen some ambiguous pictures.

I have Perry Auto Lock that has no key on it. The lock says Yale and PA 129 stamped on it. I am looking for a key for it. MTFCA discussion and pictures of what these are is here: http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/25 ... 1333215460

Thanks per the MTFCA link a 1916 which would be: 1914-1916 T1349, T1387, T1902, T1903, T1917, T2335 cylinder head wrench, T2336 T2337, T2338, T2340.

Looking for a tool set such as what came with a model T.

Looking for a brass lower apron for a brass radiator.

The original drag link is long gone. It did not come with the hay wagon. The tie rod may be original. I measure the drag link I have at 30.75 inches.

It is a 26-27 chassis and steering gear. Here is some information from this link http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/411944/478761.html?1410903128 What model year are the rest of the front end parts (axle, spindles, steering box, pit arm and tie rod) ? early cars till 9/19/14 30.687 (30-11/16) 9/19...

On further looking at it and picking it was just crud in the entrance, no key in it. Now some way to get a key for a Yale & Town PA 129 lock?

ivaldes1 wrote: ↑
Sat Aug 08, 2020 11:41 pm
Here's a picture of the lock on the steering shaft. The lock says PA 129. the bad news is there appears to be a broken off key in the lock.

How an I tell which drag link size is the right one?

Here's a picture of the lock on the steering shaft. The lock says PA 129. the bad news is there appears to be a broken off key in the lock.

They all seem to be earlies with the round firewall mount. It came with what I think is a regular aluminum spider which should fit I hope. Ignacio, The cover for the center steerig gear in the picture of the three gears is cross threaded on the gear case. Clean the threads up with a thread file and ...

I buzzed the calcium off of the steering shaft lock so I could read what it says. It is a Perry auto lock company 1917 patent with a Yale brand lock. Underwriters laboratory tested. I did not know they existed in 1917. Discussed on MTF http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/257047/261422.html?13332154...

Hand brake lever issues: https://mtfca.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=14476
Three steering columns and one wood wheel? https://mtfca.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=14886

Also, I am piecing together the steering gear which was missing a lot of parts. Pictured is a possible replacement drag link end on one side. My 1922 Touring has grease cups on either side where they join the drag link body. Lang's lists APCO accessory spring loaded drag link ball cap set 2 per car....

Hi, I've moved on to doing the steering column for Haywagon to Speedster. The idea is 3 bad ones to make one good one.I have Column 1 'good' relatively complete steering column, no cap. I have shaft 2 with the steering gears and cap, loose gears, missing one pin. The cap is magnetic. I have column 3...

The pawl is changed out with lots of pounding and heating. Was burning my fingers until I thought hey, gloves! Picture shows tools of the job. Next is the results. I measured the cam lever, they only differ by .1 of an inch 2.7-2.8 width, 3.7-3.8 height from the mount of the shaft to the top.

Further along. Have acquired a low head. The pawl for the hand brake has been changed with much pounding to get the old pivot out. Moving on to the steering gear.

Not bad I think for a sometimes welder and a drill press.

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