MTFCA Forum

1; wiring incorrect. 2; rod position changed.

I was a buzz box guy. Even built and sold a few on E Bay. This was years ago and I was taught a lesson when a friend who lives not far from me contacted me through the Forum. He had an HCCT and did coils for the local club. I had rebuilt mine, ( cap, points etc ) and he came over and set them up for...

Am I to assume if you'd started with a full tank this post wouldn't be here? That's what it reads like.

I don't know if it's been mentioned before Austin but retorquing that head would be a good idea if it's not leaking anything. Can't figure why the head bolts were loose. Maybe a torque wrench broke or a gasket replacement job got interrupted but retorque it.

Never bothered me.

Geez I love when someone posts an interesting problem then doesn't come back.

6 or 12 volt? Are you buying the correct voltage coil for whatever your car is using? Now I don’t believe it’s possible to burn out a coil that fast if you’re not using a resistor in the circuit but it sure as heck helps. When buying a coil make sure you get one with a built in resistor. If one’s no...

Those 2 words. Non running. Immediately you'll need someone with T knowledge with you if you go to look. Could be under $100 could be over $3000. As in some coil work or a thrown rod. You apparently need some help in choosing a car and knowledge about working on it. DO NOT GO ALONE!! If your parent ...

Nope. Not the one you show. The smaller book that’s usually all black. I believe it says Ford Model T service on the cover though that might be the reprint version. OK maybe I’m wrong but I don’t like to think so. Fuzzy pictures. Vague descriptions and times for each job shown.

As I stated in the post titled Instruction book vs. Ford Manual the so called black book isn’t a motors or dykes manual meant to describe how to do a job from start to finish. It’s actually a time study used to give Ford mechanics hints on how to do the jobs faster. That’s why there’s times listed a...

What is commonly referred to here as the Black Bible it actually a time study to beat Ford mechanics over the head with if they took longer on a job than the times listed in the book for each job. Ever notice how some of the explanations seem vague? That’s because the guy using the book knew the car...

I'm confused. Who or what the hell wants to attack this Forum? The chevrolet club of America? Just who? What's the point?

Wow! #12. How early is that? Looks like the dawn of T time.

I'm with Pat above. If you are in a longer that usual storage situation AT THE VERY LEAST keep the fuel out of the rest of the fuel system. IE: drain the carb although opening the valve and letting that old fuel back into the system doesn't sit well with me and kind of defeats the purpose. The motto...

By the way exactly how is it determining I'm Human?

According to every small engine manufacturer that I have attended classes at for warranty certification gas begins to deteriorate in 90 days. This is universal across them all. Extensive testing also shows that gas can’t be “preserved”. In other words crap like Stabil is snake oil.

So. I’m a certified human. Some would disagree.

I’m a flap person but that’s beside the point. Some here have mentioned wrapping the rim with duct tape. Don’t do it. When I replaced the tires on my ‘27 Tudor I found the former owner did that. What an unholy mess. The tape deteriorates and becomes a mess of strings and powder. If you’re against fl...

I wish there was an erase button.

What became of that business about replacing the standard roller with ( 2 I believe ) small ball roller bearings. Side by side to take up the space of the original solid roller. I seem to remember this being discussed years ago.

How about telling us how it works?

What do you mean the engine makes no noise when cranking? Pretty sure there’s something you listed isn’t right. As you describe the situation the engine should run or at least give some indication (backfiring). If all you describe is correct my guess is timing so far off that it doesn’t cause any re...

Steve please don’t start knocking yourself out on the car. It’s quite damaged and I’m kind of relieved you see that and posted it. honestly it looks pretty much like a parts car now.

Were the earlier ones wood?

Pic #1; I hear the little rascals theme song.

I agree that something is getting in there but, (especially oil or even an oil/water mix), would tend to lube the brush. That might not help your running much but it sure wouldn't cause the brush to wear so quickly. That contact surface on the cover must be pretty rough.

Whew! Just got home from a relatives house with a full traditional 6 fish Christmas dinner. Fell by the wayside for a while but I’m glad it was decided to revive the tradition. I think a lot of folks are looking ahead to better times. Merry Christmas and Happy Hanukkah to all.

7to 10 G’s is too high? Lordy I bought low and sold high 3 times in that exact range over 8 years ago.

I concur also. That engine business could easily run the repair process / cost beyond the value of the vehicle. Just my opinion but I don’t think the trucks have the same value as the cars.

One can only speculate as to what happened here. The car was disassembled who knows when in a space that you almost couldn't work in. Guessing the hoarding developed over time as the car sat and became unaccessable. Plenty of $ stuff there but plenty of junk too.

Are we to assume replacing the starter switch repaired the original problem or was it misrepresented in the first post? Or something else he did corrected the problem as it was described. (replacing cables or whatever). Replacing the starter switch could not have repaired what was originally describ...

Pic #4: Curly Joe Howard and the Missus on a Sunday drive meet Pres. Grover Cleveland.

I see you’re into this switch business but how could that be his problem? A short past the starter would blow his fuse if he has one. An open would cause what he’s experiencing. The heavy current draw is causing some component to heat quickly and open the circuit. It cools and the tenuous connection...

I’m a bit surprised an old car fellow like you sprang for that unit at that price Mark!

I was asked years back by a person who lived locally to look at a T he purchased. Contacted me thru the Forum and I agreed to look. He had already purchased the car and it was at his house. Apparently an impulse buy. The car did not run. The pedals were on the floor and a few other red flags were vi...

Got a voltmeter? Hook it up directly to the battery terminals. Got a reading? Good. Now hit the starter and lose all power. Voltmeter dropped to zero? You found your problem. Battery. Diagnostics.

So basically every thing looks OK electrically and you completely lose power when a load is applied. It’s the battery. There’s a poor/failed internal connection. Under an extreme load, (cranking) it “opens” . Load test the battery if nothing else shows up connect ion wise.

This immediately brings to mind the new Jaguar that's being advertised. Another car that will never be built.

Yeah a tough call about HF. Honestly I’m glad I never had to work for him. Seriously. I think at the time of the 3rd company forming Clara said shut up and go with it. This might be your last chance. Walking in one day after years of resistance about replacing the T he suddenly says let’s do it. Cla...

You might have high and mighty goals framed and hanging in the work area but if you’re not making $ they won’t be there long. So make a product that sells and get rich from it. As to coil vs. distributor: both are simple. If you understand them. No need to repeat that it’s fact. Just carry a few of ...

Are they all HCCT’s? Only the very last one (1999.99) appears to actually be an HCCT. My knowledge is somewhat limited . The others look like what they are advertised as: Buzz boxes.

Steve has it. Occasionally something comes out that’s so great others try to duplicate it going around any patents in the process. The kick your foot under the bumper to open the tail gate is a recent one. You had to be able to offer this feature. It’s that popular. Another was the 1940 introduction...

I suppose water won’t “reactivate” it? Seems too simple really.

Sometimes, especially when it doesn’t show, you’ve got to use what works. Fuel line for me too.

Geez this seems totally unnecessary.

Good Lord Dan thanks a million! We’d given up on ever getting a definitive answer. Thanks again. Man that's a hard read. Took a few rereads to get it.

Steve: seriously you have nothing to prove by taking a T on major trips again. It may sound coarse but you kind of got lucky just being able to consider doing such a thing again. Take a modern on a long trip like to the OCF. For safety’s sake. Something you can at least walk away from in a accident....

Not a bad price for a collector. Is that postage figure legitimate? Seems excessive. I’d invest in one of Kossor’s boxes before I bought an HTTC but that’s just me.

Try “hot wiring” the coil box. That is eliminating the switch. Send power directly to the coil box positive terminal. Remove the mag post connection before doing this to prevent any accidents. Don’t sweat compression just yet as you seem to have an ign. problem. It kind of sounds like a tenuous elec...

How about some of that insulating/sound deadening stick on floor stuff?

This photo really looks “of the period” that is taken many years ago. That being said what the bloody hell they are supposed to be doing is beyond me.

TRD: to call one a box and not the other is more confusing ..

“Coil box includes switch” wouldn’t fit the space so they cut the correct name short and continued the error. Just speculatin’.

I’ve used lawnmower in line filters for years. Most are gravity feed systems. I guess you could call them less restrictive but it works.

Jeff: if I’m prying too much excuse me but I was wondering what you paid for the linings. That’s a really nice box.

I've been in this trade my whole life and honestly I'm pretty tired of it. I trade in my daily driver every 4 years or so because I believe that will avoid getting stuck and I have the oil changed at the dealership so there's no question about the maintenance being done in case of a warranty claim. ...

Too many close calls outside the development I live in caused me to only drive in there. Could kill a good 40 minutes driving around but even that got old. I simply refuse to street drive a T.

I don’t know what your plans for transporting the car but that will incur a sizable outlay. When you get the car home your first job is figuring out what the supposed cracked block involves. This could be a simple freeze out plug or major engine block damage. You don’t know who diagnosed it in the f...

One of the greatest “back in the day” camping instructions are in a chapter in my 1920’s Dykes Automotive Manual. Of course the drawings look pretty much like a T and it shows how to construct bedding that involves the car. Extensive list of what to bring as far as clothes, tools, what foods to brin...

Who dug this up? I thought he got whacked again.

Yeah when they look good in black and white they must have been hot stuff in color.

Now where did I see the diagram, (actually a drawing), of the axles being wrapped with felt “rope” in a screw pattern to wind the diff lube back into the pumpkin? There was a right and left method to the wrap so that forward motion would wind the lube back to center. Isn’t that what we’re looking at...

Thanks anyway. Yet another brick wall.

Update: the corrected date is: march 11 1913. The owner just texted me saying he removed some paint.

Re: After Market Wheel Converter ? The date is confirmed. March 11 1917.

The date is confirmed. March 11 1917.

Checking with the owner. Awaiting an answer as to wether the date is correct.

Apparently the end of the road.

Is it possible that a date was awarded to protect the inventor but no # because it wasn’t approved for the accessory market or some other requirement wasn’t met? There’s no patent number on the unit but the handle says “-part 1”.

Pushing 1000 looks and no answers yet. waiting for the owner to come back with the Patent # if there is one.

Finally got an update from the owner: The full Patent date reads March 11 1917. Is this enough to find out what this item might be?

That’s the point of the post Norm. What the heck is it?

These photos were sent to me by a relative asking if I knew what the heck it was. I said I’d ask here. It looks like it converts a non demountable to a demountable rim. We were speculating that it might be used for a quick change for a flat but that’s just a wild guess. Anyone got any info on it?

That kit was worth the price for the bracket alone.

That’s exactly what I did Ed. Rare earth magnet passed in through the filler neck and shifted the baffle plate onto it. Problem solved.

Man that's some old stuff. You don't see a lot of water pump pics. Why do the cranks appear to be in upright positions? Bushing still tight?

Dangerous enough and it'll only get worse. It's going to let you down at some point.

Lordy what horrible jobs. I can’t imagine the drudgery. The working conditions. The bosses pushing and pushing constantly.

Imagine that scoop in even a mild wind.

I dropped it years ago. Too many morons.

This doesn’t belong here.

2 clean plugs and 2 fouled plugs and you guys say forget it. There’s something going on. Now if the owner doesn’t want to be bothered with it that’s OK but something’s going on and it’ll bite him in the butt sooner or later.

Soot, a dry black deposit, is usually caused by too much fuel.

Oh for the Fun Projects brake light switch kit. The price was worth the bracket alone.

Fouled with what? Fuel, oil, soot? A little information would help. 3 deposits 3 different causes.

As I stated earlier, and I don’t know where I learned about it, but I’ve used the spark retard shift method for a long time. It’s the best system I’ve found.

Sorry but I disagree with advancing the spark when just starting /idling. Incorrect AND the diagram shows nothing like that. You advance the spark when you increase the revs not at idle.

It’s pretty simple. Low revs retard position high revs advance to where it runs best. Your ears are your friend. As to Steve and Art they’re all different. Wear settings whatever as you need to get to know yours. On one of Steve’s videos he started the car and immediately yanked the lever 3/4’ of th...

I’m with the spark retarding people. Worked well for me. Left the throttle alone and never delayed in the pedal action. Shove the spark lever partially up shift to high and slowly bring the lever down to where it pulls best.

Nope. Not at all.

Good Lord! that group on photo # 8 ! They look like the cast of some small time traveling show. “I’ll be back at 3 o’clock and you’d better have the mortgage money or you’re in the street!”

All patina says to me is I can’t afford a paint job. I don’t glorify it.

30 to 35 is not no compression. First off as stated above you’ll probably have to put a few miles on it to seat everything but if you simply must know do a wet compression test. Do the dry test first. Pull the plugs, open the throttle fully and the choke open too. Get another set of hands to help. D...

Pretty much an open to the air system so boiling would cause coolant to leave in the form of steam. Boiling is a no no.

This is a job for the Drake Equation. Google it.

He’s got some nice stuff.

I can't imagine the problems I'd have trying to title a car with no paperwork here in N.J. Moron central. Not all DMV offices handle classic car plates either. I found that out the hard way. Because of prior incidents I'd never consider a car without paperwork.

I simply cannot see wooden spoked wheels on a trailer. Seems like a dumb idea.

I clicked the link here to view it and now e bay is sending me emails to bid on it.

I’m thinking short blocks. What always bothered me most about the T was my inability to replace crank bearings. Rods aren’t cheap either but they are at least available. If I ever blew a crank bearing I’d basically have A 4 wheel boat anchor as the cost of a rebabbitt would be prohibitive for me on ...

If you have one of those braided ground cables that might be the problem. I went a little nuts with a slow cranker and finally found the problem when the braided portion started to smoke. A new heavy duty cable make quite a difference. I went through the starter and the connections but never noticed...

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