MTFCA Forum

ryanpad

Karl Von Neumann wrote: ↑
Mon Jun 30, 2025 10:47 pm

ryanpad wrote: ↑
Mon Jun 30, 2025 10:05 pm
Do you have any of those still?
I always have these on hand this is a old post ill have to look and see if I have these specificly

Thanks Karl, it doesn’t have to be one of the ones pictured.

ryanpad

Do you have any of those still?

ryanpad

I'm trying to identify the manufacturer of a non ford script gear. It appears to be the same as a ford gear but the axle it came off of was a little shorter and the key slot was different. I'd like to use it but with the proper key.

ryanpad

I just received my Warford this week. I got on the list at the end of October so it was right at 6 months. John allowed me to send them my driveshaft and torque tube for shortening while I waited so now I have everything ready to go for the installation. That worked out great. Got mine today! IMG_5...

ryanpad

What is the difference between this transmission compared to the ones Langs sells? I'm looking forward to getting one at some point for my 19 and removing the Ruckstell rear I don’t know that Langs sells them but if you contact Layne Machine you should be able to get one. I was on a waiting list an...

ryanpad

I’ve had mine for going on 4 years now. It makes the car enjoyable to drive, for sure. Don’t be afraid to force it into gear, it sometimes seems difficult but it gets easier with practice. I banged it pretty hard learning to drive it. I was worried I had done some damage once so I pulled the cover ...

ryanpad

My gearbox is done, should be here in a week or so. Now to study up on axle/differential removal and repair as to coincide with the installation of the Warford.

ryanpad

Original Smith wrote: ↑
Wed Apr 16, 2025 1:49 pm
I'm using 12volt batteries in both of my '13s that are about the size of a Model T coil. They are rechargeable too.

I ended up with a 12v for a power wheels kids car. Running wire soon.

ryanpad

Some of the electrical was done before I purchased my 1915 Gallivan twin ohc engine with now 8.5 to one compression I will explain how it is now with my modifications. The gas tank was removed from under the seat, and a new larger tank was fabricated to take up most of the area in the turtle deck. ...

ryanpad

Love the Coupeletes, I saw this two piece tail light bracket & license plate holder & immediately thought about the unique turtle deck opening on the earliest of this model. I’m trying to put together a similar setup using a third party bracket (acme) that appears to have been mounted to an “iron”....

ryanpad

Melba Nolan wrote: ↑
Sun Jun 16, 2024 8:54 pm
For sale: tail oil lamp and license bracket 15-19 $30 each plus postage
20240614_101555 - Copy.jpg

New price is $25 plus shipping

Do you still have this?

ryanpad

TRDxB2 wrote: ↑
Tue Apr 01, 2025 1:15 am
Being authentic non-starter setup
http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/41 ... 1391269200
battery's.png

Awesome!

ryanpad

In this drawing where is the light for brakes, has anyone seen that in the wild? I might try to do something like that on my ‘13. I have a fixture but it’s just the tail light/ plate light. Separate fixture?

ryanpad

I installed a carrier in the frame from a later car. I don't like the look but one has to get under the car to see it. Perhaps another query is what sort of battery is used? My battery is for hand crank starting and to run LED brake and turn signals, so I used a 12v marine deep cycle battery (Would...

ryanpad

RajoRacer wrote: ↑
Wed Mar 19, 2025 4:48 pm
I'm no purist so I installed a stock Ford battery carrier from a starter car in our '14 Touring where it would have been from the factory!

That's a good idea, Im gonna look into that.

ryanpad

I have two with batteries underneath the back seat and another with the battery in a period accesary running board box on the running board. and a third one I put a later battery carrier in. The location and size would be dermined on what you are using the battery for. If its for starting the car y...

ryanpad

Does anyone want to share photos and/or descriptions/ideas of their having added a battery to a brass car?

ryanpad

Fitting bows to sockets is not fun.

ryanpad

The top was purchased but I’m going to install it.
I might make sides later on

ryanpad

Anybody in the San Diego area have experience with installing new tops?

ryanpad

I’m on the list for a Layne Warford Transmission but haven’t heard back on it. Has anyone out there received theirs yet?

ryanpad

John_Aldrich wrote: ↑
Fri Oct 04, 2024 6:21 pm
Beautiful. Mine is pretty rough.

Thanks, mine was too rough, like with bits falling off so I’ve had to remake it.

ryanpad

Here’s a progress picture of the bed

ryanpad

Wayne Sheldon wrote: ↑
Thu Sep 12, 2024 10:14 pm
Looks like a nice T pickup!

I’m working kinda front to back so I haven’t done (re-done) the bed yet.

ryanpad

I do now have an acetylene line that’s up for grabs. It seems to be made to go under the radiator? Free to a good home. If you were anywhere nearby I would be pleased to use that headlamp line! My 1913 speedster actually needs one. But I can make one easily enough if I can ever get back to finishin...

ryanpad

Finished (until it leaks)

ryanpad

That "copper? colored line could be in fact a copper colored brass. The color of brass is dependent upon the specific mixture of the brass alloy. Brass is mostly copper and zinc, but sometimes have other metals or chemicals also to give it different working characteristics. The amount of copper ver...

ryanpad

Okay so dimensionally they are the same but the fuel line that came on my car is brass and the acetylene line is copper.

ryanpad

Thanks for all the great input.
Here’s some pictures of the acetylene line and the end of the fuel one that I need to replace.

ryanpad

JTT3 wrote: ↑
Wed Sep 11, 2024 11:01 pm
Other than that Mrs Lincoln how was the play?

I can’t say, I’m still processing.

ryanpad

Sorry Speedy hope you’re not upset. My car was a 1913 touring car that was converted to a pickup. I don’t know for sure but my guess is that it was an early conversion. I am restoring it to be a driver. Because it was so badly rusted, to a point where it wasn’t safe, it’s got almost all new tins, th...

ryanpad

Are you are ruining a correctly sized part, dont. Buy a piece of 1/4" steel brake line. Napa has a variety of lengths. Not fair to answer only the second part of the post, but that’s why I asked because I am trying to NOT accumulate parts and if someone wants what I believe to be original then they...

ryanpad

Is the headlamp tubing the same material as fuel line?
Should I use it my headlamp tubing that’s surplus to make a new fuel line or does someone need it?

ryanpad

ryanpad wrote: ↑
Mon Aug 05, 2024 7:16 pm
I got the box of fenders gone, I hope they don’t hate my car. IMG_4586.jpeg

The body is inside the building

ryanpad

I got the box of fenders gone, I hope they don’t hate my car.

ryanpad

Living in the Hurricane Alley, we are just getting some coverage for wind, hail & water since Katrina. Prior to the 2 companies recently in my area offering coverage, the state had a state government coverage program at about $1000 a month. I just got quoted for one of the companies that have offer...

ryanpad

TXGOAT2 wrote: ↑
Tue Jul 30, 2024 3:03 pm
Creepy. If those fenders had caught fire, the whole county would have gone up... and pavers.... we ALL know about THOSE!

Thank you Goat I knew I would find understanding from my model t community.

ryanpad

I layed some pavers and built a patio cover then started my 1913 restoration. The box in the photo was there for two days max before giving the contents-fenders and running boards- to a club member. Apparently the insurance company thinks I’m a hoarder; probably never built a 1913 Ford Model T Roads...

ryanpad

Phillip O wrote: ↑
Mon Jul 29, 2024 9:58 am
Is it leather or . If leather I'm interested contact info Phillip oldenhage cell or tex 209 769 3384

no sir, sorry. vinyl

ryanpad

Cartouche 1913 rear seat cover and door panels $300 and shipping

ryanpad

Steve, that was funny. It happens to us all. The significance of the passage of time, right, the significance of the passage of time. So, when you think about it, there is great significance to the passage of time in terms of the passage of time. Especially when the passage of time is so fast it be...

ryanpad

Ken Buhler wrote: ↑
Wed Jul 24, 2024 9:12 am
Those are for holding the springs into place. They go into corresponding holes in the seat frame.

Thanks Ken. My seat platform doesn’t have holes so I just took the legs off. I suspected that but without clear evidence I chose not to drill my restored seat platform. Next time I’ll do it right.

ryanpad

Thanks for all the responses, great video btw.

ryanpad

Nevermind I just took them out

ryanpad

Before I jump into this Im seeking some input. A differential rebuild and installation of an auxiliary gear box is coming up soon. After I figure out how Im gonna support the cars chassis I thought I could leave the rear wheels on and roll the entire assembly out, driveshaft/differential/axles/wheel...

ryanpad

If it looks like a duck, swims like a duck, and quacks like a duck, then it probably is a duck.

ryanpad

Has anyone seen two "legs" on the bottom of their seat springs?

ryanpad

I just picked up my '13 body and Ray Wells asked me to share that he has a 1911 touring (original/new wood) a '10 roadster and a '22 roadster body for sale. Message me and I'll share his phone number if interested.

ryanpad

AndyClary wrote: ↑
Sun Jun 23, 2024 8:32 pm
To fit the Warford the extra length will have to be in the wheelbase. Extending out the back won’t help. Maybe put speedster fenders on it.

Andy

Right! The rear wheel would live way back in the fender.

ryanpad

Happy to see that you made it home.

ryanpad

Building a wooden bed box with a hardware kit would allow you to locate the bed and fenders where you wanted. A steel box could also be built. Repro early style bed corners are available in Ford, Dodge, and Chevrolet styles Many early express/pickups did not have full length stock running boards. S...

ryanpad

How will you lengthen the running boards and splash shields to compensate for the extra length? I haven’t worked it out yet but my initial thoughts were that because it’s a pickup the extra 12” would be bed extending beyond the rear fenders. Good point though and I’ll definitely have to draw it up ...

ryanpad

i do not see why not. No different from making an 18 foot truck out of a 16 foot truck. Just remember to add to the widest part of the frame in order to provide the best support. You might need a cross beam, but that would be easy to add. And it goes without saying that you will need to lengthen th...

ryanpad

I did just that to accommodate KC Warford in my 1917 shooting brake. To save two welds I joined two frames together. One had very dodgy front cross member and the other was damaged at the rear .The cuts were made at 45 degrees so the weld was longer at the join, as was done on our Leyland farm truc...

ryanpad

Hey Ryanpad ..... Any progress with your coils yet? Hey sorry for the late reply and thanks for asking. I flattened the coil box tops with two part filler, installed the points sets; each set was slightly different the the rest with one being not even close. The top cushion springs seem to be consi...

ryanpad

If one was to build a roadster pickup (1913) and wanted to use a Warford gearbox could one add 12” to the chassis rather than cut down the driveshaft and radius rods.
Pros and cons…

ryanpad

Someone appears to have been experimenting with available power vs rpm, there are a few discussions on the forum about it but way out of my pay grade.

ryanpad

It sure was fun even though my car is still on jack stands.
We talked a couple times, once in Julian just before the museum, we were having lunch at Fat Anthony’s. So glad you had a good time. Safe travels back home!
Vincent

ryanpad

Hey speedyTinc..... Do you know of anyone in his California area that could help with coil rebuilding? We have 2 guys with ecct's. Every thursday evening coils are tuned as needed. I am sure if he brought his coils, we would gladly accommodate. The main "tec" is a Montana 500 veteran.(Knows his stu...

ryanpad

Meter/tester

ryanpad

As far as coil point quality, I believe the ones available today are made by one manufacturer and are sold by several of our vendors. As I stated before, I am very satisfied with the quality , and the electrical values that are set during testing do hold up very well. Today, there are several metho...

ryanpad

Once you install your points, see if you could physically adjust as in the pictures. With the bridge adjustment , adjust between vibrator and cushion spring points at 0.030"...... But as far as today's coil point manufacturing quality, the ones that are currently made and available at Snyder's or L...

ryanpad

Once you install your points, see if you could physically adjust as in the pictures. With the bridge adjustment , adjust between vibrator and cushion spring points at 0.030". Thanks for your patience, there’s a couple things going on. One set, right out of the envelope, wouldn’t even sit flat on it...

ryanpad

'The points that I bought are missing the bend in the spring steel that allows the two components to run parallel.' Both 'arms' of the point set will be flat before assembly. After assembly the lower, movable (armature) point support will be flexed as shown in the drawing you posted. This will be t...

ryanpad

The points that I bought are missing the bend in the spring steel that allows the two components to run parallel.

ryanpad

Moxie26 wrote: ↑
Fri May 31, 2024 10:16 pm
What manufacture coils are you re-newing point sets ?

ryanpad

So everything I’ve read regarding points starts with the geometry but then drops off at fill in the dents left by the stand off with a shim or washer but the point set and two stand off bits don’t even work on the surface plate.

ryanpad

Found this

ryanpad

JTT3 wrote: ↑
Fri May 24, 2024 8:28 pm
I think you should & sell me the rest Ha.

free for you, pick up only

ryanpad

I’m wondering if anyone out there can identify the maker of the outside of the hub brakes from some pictures?
My thoughts right now are to delete the redundant actuating shafts and carrier and just leaving them hand operated.

ryanpad

Whatever you do, assemble all the sheet metal to your liking prior to painting. Once satisfied with fit, disassemble and paint. Nothing worse than fighting with sheet metal trying to install and fit it, and scratching it all to hell. Great advice, I just heard the same advice from a local shop that...

ryanpad

I have my new Rootlieb sheet metal and the body is being worked on so my question is on the paint and costs. I do want a professional paint job and plan to bring the fenders, running boards etc to a local shop and wondering if anyone has had a recent experience and how much to expect it to cost. I m...

ryanpad

Hi Roger, I only need the font. Would you sell it separately? $40 ?

ryanpad

I need one font for an E&J model 32, it’s one piece, round with three lugs that it attaches with.

ryanpad

I guess the only improvement I’ll do going back up is the one piece valves.

ryanpad

Do lighter aluminum pistons significantly reduce vibration?

ryanpad

Allan wrote: ↑
Sat Feb 24, 2024 1:48 am
Darn! I was going to call the carburetor Albert. Albert is much more distinguished than Holley.

Allan from down under.

You got me there! I should have said something more like:
Identify the manufacturer of the for-mentioned atomizing fuel delivery device.

ryanpad

Yes Allan I do believe your advice is even more correct. In my case the decision was made late at night, I just took a full hide belt from the closet and 'crafted' the pads to fit. Had I thought it through, or now that I hear your way, I too would have gone with EPDM Rubber. (The flat roof stuff......

ryanpad

Rich P. Bingham wrote: ↑
Fri Feb 23, 2024 7:12 pm

ryanpad wrote: ↑
Fri Feb 23, 2024 6:09 pm

Jerry VanOoteghem wrote: ↑
Fri Feb 23, 2024 5:40 pm
Yup, that's better!
for ten bonus points name that carburetor
Holley G

Ding ding ding! Winner!

ryanpad

From the location I would suspect it is used to be sure the choke is open after choking the car. Maybe the spring on the choke is broken or missing. I could be wrong. If the hood were open or the picture taken from the carburetor looking down, it might be more apparent. Norm That’s right Norm. My g...

ryanpad

I seem to recall that while mentally it sounds like a good idea...you can't do it! I know, I tried and for some reason, even after some filing here and there, the hood would just not sit well. Struggled for hours...gave up...went back to leather pads and whoosh...all done perfect hood fit...fore an...

ryanpad

Jerry VanOoteghem wrote: ↑
Fri Feb 23, 2024 5:40 pm
Yup, that's better!

for ten bonus points name that carburetor

ryanpad

jab35 wrote: ↑
Fri Feb 23, 2024 8:33 am
Or from MTFCA Home page, Open these links: Resources-Drawings-Radiators

https://www.mtfca.com/phpBB3/app.php/gallery/image/94

very nice, the longer plate is key. I might not have had to cut the studs off if it was like that but 110 years....
Thank you

ryanpad

Jerry VanOoteghem wrote: ↑
Fri Feb 23, 2024 3:33 pm
Vincent,

You might want to reply to one of your previous threads. Otherwise, nobody knows what car you're referring to.

there was supposed to be a photo attached that gives it context, I'll try again.

ryanpad

The story from the family as told to the kid that I got my car from is that it was used to take trips to Baja to fish

ryanpad

RajoRacer wrote: ↑
Thu Feb 22, 2024 7:36 pm
Simple plate, spring, stud, leather pad, nut & cotter pin. Thimbles won't work with a brass radiator !

that answers that. thank you

ryanpad

So Ive ordered a radiator from Brassworks and Ill probably cut the nuts off to get the old one off the car.
My question is which hardware to use going back up? the car is a 1913 but I like the looks of the newer thimble design. (1920's)

ryanpad

I'll convert them to electric but they both will need reflectors and lenses. Did similar for the '12 project buckboard pickup, found a pair of lightly dented, but bare, steel Ford script Victors, that were missing the brass rims and reflectors and burners. But project needed working lamps, so elect...

ryanpad

Awesome work! That’s exactly what I needed to hear!

ryanpad

I think Ive found a match to the lamp on right side (aft looking forward) Victor Cincinnati. I'll convert them to electric but they both will need reflectors and lenses.

ryanpad

George House wrote: ↑
Tue Feb 20, 2024 7:45 pm
“all new sheet metal”? If you need rewooding, you live in the perfect place So, you’re gonna restore it ?

Yes, Ray Wells locally is building the body as the original touring body is full of rusty holes.The wood is included. Ill do mechanical and upholstery

ryanpad

Hi Norm!
Yes it's me. Ray Wells is building a roadster body for me and I've ordered Rootlieb fenders and whatnot. I'm looking ahead a little in the headlights bit.
Im looking for a match to the Victor or the Brown 16 OR a set of fork mounted early electric as im going to convert the gas over anyway

ryanpad

haha, its quite a character.
I like its looks too but im putting all new sheet metal and paint on it and then its gonna be problem

ryanpad

Thanks, looks like it gone.

ryanpad

I've given up on finding a reasonably priced solution to my mismatched headlamp issue and so im asking for thoughts on using period correct (within a couple years) fork mounted electric lights on my 1913 pickup.
[image][/image]

ryanpad

Thanks Scott Im still moving forward slowly, and learning. The cars that we have live in a world just between carriage building and the production of automobile coaches. I need to hear what you're saying to get into the right mindset, more of a turn of the century tradesman and less of an industrial...

ryanpad

1) Are there any model/distinctions regarding the interior panels? What's left on my 1913 touring car's pillars suggests that the interior curves as it follows the body contours while a lot of my research indicates more of a straight line from the sill/framerail to the armrest. Did it vary between s...

ryanpad

Scott

that's what I'm after, the wood that's coming out is hard to sort out.
couple things I'm learning is the car was first registered in14 but the engine number points to 13.
I'm going to need the trim piece for the top of the door where the latch handle comes through

ryanpad

Thanks to everyone that contributed to my post. After considering everything I've read and looking closely at my car I believe that cutting the sides square to the top of the firewall is the way to go, there is a line on the body where the firewall meets that wants to be followed. Id like to ask ano...

ryanpad

go slow that is for a different car - an earlier 1915 knowing that, just be sure of what you want before you cut - and yes, as a minimum you want square corners on top to look close to a correct '14 and among other things be sure to understand what the drawing is showing for carb controls...there i...

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