MTFCA Forum

Lock Cylinder Pictures. I accidentally let the lock turn so I had to pick it all over again. It took forever. The tolerances are too tight for shimming. There are two new pins. And a hat. The "big" pin on the back stops the hat from turning one way, so you may only unlock by turning the key 90 degre...

I drilled out the two pins. I ended with a .093" drill bit, using a good precision drill press, and stopping at where the brass lock cylinder appeared to start. The pins are soft enough steel, and seem to be square with the forged housing. If you see brass chips, that was too far. You've got some ma...

Wayne, thanks,
So we think it is two pins, one going in each side, rather than one pin going all the way across.
Got it. I was wondering why they didn't quite seem to line up. I'll drill them.

There is a pin! I never would have noticed that in a million years. Thank you.

I'll try to drive it out.

Also, a search of the old forum says the key that fits is an Ilco 1000 K.

How does the lock cylinder come out? This one has no key, so I picked it, but I can't figure out how the cylinder comes out to rekey it. It's a Corbin keyway. Searches show it looks like their old cabinet type. (Ilco1000G)?). Has anyone dealt with this? How does the lock cylinder come out? What key ...

Picked! Still need to figure out how to rekey.

I'm guessing it's for scooping slag off of your molten babbit.

Thanks all. I'll likely go with the kit the vendors have and report back how it goes. It'll be a month.

https://www.volocars.com/vehicles/16868 ... t-huckster


Is that it?

The car I'm working on had a sealed beam conversion with a big relay that burnt it's fuses. The 6v sealed beam headlamps don't fit well, and the plan is to go back to stock headlights with a bright soft-white led bulb. I've got new wires to replace the shorted ones, and I'm ditching the relay (it go...

I read about how happy people were with the Smith pipes, any idea who has them? Also, which muffler would I need, I think they need original style cast iron end type, which I don't know if they were still using in 1925? The muffler on mine doesn't look very original. I'm happy to replace it if the r...

I'm working on a 1925 T and the exhaust pipe is crumbling. The Manifold looks good though. Is the Langs kit 4025EXS the way to go or is something else better?

I used a lot of heat. And I think the tools are the "proper fitting screwdrivers." I started with grinding a regular big screwdriver to fit and all I could get it to do was deform the brass. So then I ground a small socket into a fat screwdriver shape to fit exactly, and then clamp it in a vise to k...

That shape looks very familiar. I finally had to grind a small socket to that exact shape to make a removal bit, plus many cycles of mapp-gas heat and freezing and sprays and curses. It took about a week. Your tools look like exactly what I needed, plus the center shaft to keep it all aligned. One m...

Yes, I have most of a combo switch and two brackets (one black one chrome?). And I'll get both sizes of wire. Re: the picture Ah-ha! There's a hole in the firewall, for the magneto wire to go in and the two light wires to come out. And the "junction" looks like it's just a small right-angle tab that...

Thanks, that's what I was looking for. Confirming I understand correctly: The wiring itself is simply black cloth-covered with no fancy colors or stripes? With ring terminals and shrink tube? (Did they have shrink tube back then, or is the original crimp insulation a piece of rubber tube?) The horn ...

One car I'm working on is a 1919 Magneto only, no starter, car. It is missing its magneto horn and bracket and horn/light switch and resistor and wires. It does not appear to have had a terminal block, and the key is on the front of the coil box. I need to reassemble all this. What colors are each o...

FYI regarding the horn/light switch, yes there should a round spring that goes around the shaft under the button to push the button away from the horn contact. The c-clip stops it from all falling out. The tab that is "swinging around" under the button should actually be permanently connected on its...