MTFCA Forum

... or maybe they mix too well.

I laid a sweaty shirt on this fender and made the mistake of leaving it there too long.

I got more than just a ring around the collar.

I can see that assembling a truly matched set could be a chore.

Depends on what you want. What's the car?

Over nineteen years of production I count three major categories: clincher, split rim, and wire. Within the categories, especially clincher, there are many variations.

The good part of taking Sepulveda Boulevard over the pass is tooting your horn in the tunnel.

I just thought somebody might find this interesting.

Yes, I do. That sure looks swell, right down to the bronze lock washers. Very cool. What do you use for a float on those? Fix the old one, or use the plastic stuff from the parts dealers?

...new brake and reverse drum...

Really new, or originals that looked good? You didn't say new low drum, so I gather that's an original. It doesn't take much of a crack to eat up your band linings, even if they're Kevlar.

They say it's just too much trouble changing over the mold from black tires to white tires to justify them. [/size] My uneducated guess is that the molds are the same and the materials are different. But that doesn't matter. As long as all the clincher tires (except Blockleys) come from the same so...

So apparently on that particular 1917, Ford they were black. But it wouldn't surprise me to find that they varied by supplier, or by year, or both.

IMG_2124 copy 2.JPG I don't get to see steamers rolling down the road. I have to go about ten miles to the K&O show. But beginning in 1942 I always loved coming to Grandma's farm. Now that it's my farm, even though there are no more hogs I'm in Hog Heaven. I wouldn't rather live anywhere else. Ther...

...are you referring to the NOS grey tires offered by Coker? [/size] No, the NOS tires I bought were white Firestones made in New Zealand. They came out of the original wrappers looking brand new and gorgeous. Country roads ate them up in no time. IMG_0016.JPG IMG_0014.JPG The fact is that rubber d...

Whatever you do, don't buy NOS. VOE

You can get them from Adam.

When I read the question I thought of the 1917 Rip Van Winkle. Does it have its original hoses? My second thought was the MTFCI restoration guidelines. I found nothing there. Screen Shot 2020-08-13 at 9.15.04 AM.png In this old B&W photo are the the Rip's hoses red or black? I'm guessing red. They ...

I with Allan. I would rather make a pin to fit the hole than drill the hole to fit a bigger pin.

All the supplies you need to do your own field coil probably will cost about what RV sells one for.

With shipping that's over $300. Which supplies are expensive enough to make the cost that high? I figured that most of the cost was in labor.

I've been reading The Electrical System and previous forum posts, and rewinding a mag coil seems to be a job I could do. But I do have some questions for those who have done it, including what products to use. In researching this I've read recommendations for specific products but some of what I re...

Red Hook Restorations currently are makers of NEV-R-WEAR 100% Woven Transmission Band Linings. Two other outfits were also supplying Kevlar bands, but the supplier of the woven material for all of them bowed out of the business. I believe Red Hook has found a new source. Maybe one of the other part...

IMG_5394 copy.JPG Because it worked and was painted, I always assumed that the mag ring in my 1915 runabout had been rebuilt. IMG_5396 copy.JPG But recently it fell on the floor and suffered this boo-boo, revealing that under the paint was brittle old insulation. Maybe I could patch it up and use i...

Adam Doleshal uses this gasket and says it's superior, so I'm going to give it a try. It also costs a little less than copper.

As the saying goes, wecome to the affliction. Although you're in the prospecting stage I think some of the pages on my website may be of help. For inspiration there's E.B. White's FAREWELL, MY LOVELY , the subject of another recent discussion. http://dauntlessgeezer.com/DG74.html For practical advi...

BTW, E.B. White is a well known writer of short stories. I believe there is another book that has a collection of his works.

He also wrote Charlotte's Web.

...I used a MAP gas torch on the ends of my Kevlar bands. [/size] I do that with nylon rope so it won't unravel. I suspect it will work just as well with Kevlar. Looking at a set of "new" linings in my shop (RM, not Red Hook) I find that they are glued, so I assume that the new ones will be too, if...

Early 1926 touring (no headlight bar).

I've seen Johnson's wheels at Chickasha, and they are excellent. But he hasn't been there in recent years, and I heard that health problems put him out of the game. His website is still up, but the last time I tried to contact him I got no reply, so I don't know the status of that operation. I've s...

A few that come to mind: Mike Bender, Tulsa; Joe Bell, Ohio; Andy Loso, Minnesota; Adam Doleshal, Wisconsin. There are a lot of others, but those are within a few states of you.

With the swap meets cancelled there aren't many places to look.

That's a problem. If you can find them, old metal stems are the way to go. They don't have to be vulcanized.

http://dauntlessgeezer.com/DG110.html

I think Scott may be onto something. The worst economy since 1930 could be a factor.

당신은 모두 재미있게 이야기

For those who can't read that, it says Dangsinun modu jaemitke iyaki.

...your Dixie Service Station Equipment axle stand...

: SMILING PIG.jpg (55.82 KiB) Viewed 474 times

Do you degrease and etch those cadmium plated items before painting? [/size] If I have to use modern hardware I grind off the markings, buff smooth, strip off all the cad plating, prep (etch) with phosphoric acid, and paint. Old Ford hardware I have used has no marks or plating to remove. While rav...

Why not remove the U-joint?

Why do you paint nuts that should be plated?

Which are supposed to be plated? Plated with what? Where can I find this information?

Brent Mize is still doing them.

Could someone zoom in on the first picture...

Not much you can see by zooming in.

If all spokes are solid and tight, what's making that noise?
Are we sure the sound is coming from the wheel and/or hub?
Why were shims needed?

...und too late schmart." [/size] So says the old saying. For approximately forever I've painted nuts and washers hung on wires, each wire with a hook at the top and a few loops to hold individual pieces. To fit them in the oven for baking, I've been limited to five or six pieces per wire. IMG_5372...

That riveted rear axle is 1914 or earlier. Going to make a pickup bed?

Gene, there's no law against adding a little hi-temp RTV to those copper rings. I do that because my block hasn't been surfaced to remove the pits.

The holes are too big for 3/16" and too small for 1/4", so I went on a search for 7/32". I ended up ordering hinge pins from Jim Dix (Big Flats Rivet Company). All the other rivets I found in that size were too short. See the Big Flats website for help on how to rivet.

If you Google Brite Boy you'll find several sources. Prices vary, so shop around.

I aim to replace my broken low drum with a new one from Dave Nolting. I will need to send him a gear from an old drum. What is the best way to remove the rivets without damaging the hub? I think I know, but maybe somebody has a better procedure than I have in mind.

Here's my lower windshield frame. I believe it's correct for 1915. IMG_5364.JPG IMG_5363.JPG The right side upright rusted and broke at the top of the bracket and I'm replacing it with a "new" one cut from a junk frame. I'm waiting for rivets to arrive before I install new rivets, paint, and reasse...

Many of the kids that are this age had dads that did not have the opportunity to learn so they can’t teach. [/size] That's me. My dad was raised by his grandma in horse & buggy days. He had wood shop in high school, but when it came to cars he had the mechanical touch of death. I recall watching hi...

If you take Norm's suggestion and remove the freeze plugs (really casting plugs), you can install new brass ones or you can do this: http://dauntlessgeezer.com/DG87.html
Whatever you do, don't use steel plugs.

You can blow up a small picture. Of course, that doesn't make it any sharper.

Tim is correct. 1916 runabout with 1919 or later wheels. The front springs, wishbone, and some other parts are also later than 1916. The funny radiator hose is modern, of course. You can leave it and enjoy it as is, or you can make a project of finding "correct" parts one or two at a time. Either w...

I agree with John Kuehn. The method shown in my videos is good up to a point, but the added measures he describes are better.

I very much dislike the idea of lying on my back in the mud to wrestle a heavy spare in or out, which is what's required by some under-bed spare carriers I've seen. I like the swing-down idea in Randy's photos, but I would put the hinges toward the rear so that when it's down the tire would be easy...

Most if not all of the WWI Ford ambulances I've seen were on a car chassis, not TT. A check of Google images will confirm this. Ford made 41105 TT chassis in 1918. 39,000+ of them became ambulances? I suspect not. The TT did not come from the factory with a Ruckstell axle. That was an aftermarket p...

"You can fix anything it you're smart enough." ~ Bud Redding

I would add "... and sometimes if you have enough dough."

55 pounds is to die for. Most don't get that high. If all are over 45 you're OK.

There are two bolts for each arm. The shorter one goes up through the frame and arm with the nut and cotter pin on top, as in your pictures. It should be snug, not tight. Then the block goes in, and the longer bolt goes through the frame, block, and arm with the nut and cotter pin on the inside. Ag...

I wasn't thinking of an actual crack in the hogshead. I was thinking of a leak between the hogshead and the pan. Maybe I should have called it a gap or an opening.

I haven't tried it, but I've read about this cure for a leak between the hogshead and the pan. 1 Wash the leaking crack thoroughly with lacquer thinner. You want it to get into the crack, not just on the outside. 2 Run a bead of Ultra Black along the crack and squeeze it in with your finger. 3 Add ...

It reminds me of the 1934 Ford Bonnie and Clyde death car - all seven of them.........

I hear Daniel Boone's ax has had the head replaced three times, and five new handles.

I believe it would be this one down on the bottom. The oil tube empties in that vicinity.

Re crankcase cover would be 3100 re Steve's chart. Right front bolt on that should be where oil comes out. 3101 is inspection cover. [/size] After reading that I had to take a look at the VF piece Brendan mentioned. It's in the May/June 2020 issue, and is an article written by Murray Fahnestock in ...

I'm sure the metal stem tubes from Blockley are excellent. But I have been buying Hartford tubes, cutting off the rubber stems, and installing my own metal stems. So far they have presented no problems. I intend for my next tyres to be Blockleys, but I will keep the Hartford tubes in them.

My question about #5,000,000: Is it a time capsule like the 1917 Rip Van Winkle, or has it been gussied up like #15,000,000?

I think that would be #3101, officially called the crank case lower cover. It bolts onto the bottom of the pan.

Is the new race an actual Timken or from overseas? [/size] Some Timken bearings are made in USA. Some are made in Canada. And it wouldn't surprise me if some are made in China. The important question isn't where it's made, but whether it's of good quality. I'm old enough to remember when Made in Ja...

Some folks use grease cups with Zerks inside so they can use a grease gun. I haven't done that with the small cups because using them as designed is no problem for me. The giant u-joint cup is another story. Arthur Itis told me to put a Zerk in that one.

The opportunity for a career in restoration or fabrication of parts is real. The guys that have done this type of work for years are retiring and have nobody to carry the torch. [/size] Quite true. There are several Model T parts and services we have taken for granted that are no longer available b...

Besides Lang's & Chaffins there is Bob's Antique Auto-parts, S&J Auto-parts and Snyder's to name a few...

...and Birdhaven, and Antique Auto Ranch, and more.

I crossed mac's off my list almost thirty years ago when I found there were other Model T parts dealers.

It's great that there are T guys close together who like to actually drive their cars. There are probably at least a dozen Model T's in my county, and mine are the only ones I ever see being driven.

I don't have the words to express how swell this is. Good on Hank, and good on the boys. Carry on.

I've never had to heat one to get it off. Be very careful not to let that axle slip out and go flying. Rather than put the gear between two supports I would press into a large socket on one support. It doesn't have to move very far to get the retainers out.

I would add a little material to the rod and make a new hole. You want the end of the rod pointing up so you're adding material on top. Sideways, gravity will work against you.

I think the lever looks OK.

Dave and Keith are right on target with their suggestion of short 200 to 400 mile trips to work the bugs out. Fortunately you live in an area with lots of secondary and tertiary roads. Expeditions of less than coast-to-coast proportions are good too. Even if I'm still driving a T at 100, there are ...

I found this on one of the FB Model T pages.

The owner said he's considering getting new tires and tubes.

So apparently sometimes they are OK and sometimes they are not. The bronze washers will long outlast me, so I'll stick with those.

Tony, a not uncommon occurrence when fitting a Scat crank is interference with the centre rear bolt on the inspection pan horse shoe, or the horseshoe itself at that point. [/size] Yes, you may have to grind a little off the horseshoe and/or bolt. I'm no great expert on this. It just happens to be ...

Since Tom Fell made the trip in a Packard in 1903, lots of people have done it. I believe you could get by without a Ruckstell, but it would be safer to have one. Whichever route you take, there will be some steep grades, both in the East and in the West, and some of them are much longer than I wou...

A lovely car, mostly correct as far as I can see. Exceptions are the "natural" wheels you noted, mostly a modern fad*, the step plates, and the modern hose clamps. No manhole oilers are being made as far as I know, so my 1915 wears the brass twist oilers on the shackles and the "modern" flip tops e...

If the timer isn’t working properly, which new one would you recommend?

I've always run original New Day timers and have had no trouble with them. For many years the reproduction New Days were widely condemned as poorly made, but I've read that the current reproductions are very good.

I got a magneto output tester and coil/plug tester...

I'll be interested to learn whether 500TEST actually tests plugs under compression. I believe that's the only valid way to do it.

You can't get there from here. [/size] The old joke may be right in this case, but two things might work. One would be getting a knife under the end of the tag and prying. I expect that would likely do at least some damage to the tag. The other would be to mill the heads off the rivets, being caref...

...who is going to fix their car, washing machine, or other mechanical things...

Years ago John Regan was disgusted with the drive shafts being sold at the time, and started supplying new ones correctly made to the Ford prints. If you're a better Google searcher than I am you might find his forum posts explaining the difference. The parts book shows the same DS for all years 19...

I found this on FB today. It's from a scrapbook of photos taken on a 1921 cross country trip. The caption identified it only as a small town on the plains. It's a wonderful illustration of town streets and country roads.

Better explain what they are and show a picture for tbose who are unfamiliar.

...anyone know his contact info beside mailing address? [/size] That is my gripe about a lot of local clubs. Snail mail only. No website, no phone, no email. No website doesn't bother me, as that takes work. But at this point in the twenty-first century who doesn't have email? This problem seems es...

I'm wondering what I should put in the blue one - Water, 50/50, waterless coolant, or ??

I'd say 50/50 for its anti-rust ingredients.

What get damaged, worn faster?

Moving parts.

If you want to go fast in a stock car get a Packard.

I don't know, John. I assumed it was 26-27, but maybe both tanks measure the same.

IMG_5322 copy.JPG I use the traditional wood stick with Ford markings, but I gave it a coat of polyurethane and scuffed it with sandpaper so the wet part shows up. IMG_0360 copy 2.JPG Whatever you use for a gauge, I highly recommend these. They have saved me an unscheduled long walk more than once.

Model T's were not designed with such elements in mind, nor were seat belts designed for use in a Model T. [/size] Quite true. But the Willys and the Kaiser in which I had my wrecks were not designed with seat belts in mind, and I'm here today because I installed them. Granted, a Model T is much mo...

A variation on Bill's suggestion is to keep a list of websites, user names, and passwords on a flash drive and just plug it in when you need the info. I'm not smart enough to remember dozens of passwords, so this works for me.

Is it safer to be ejected, or to have the car land on top of you?

And which is more likely to happen in a wreck? My guess is ejection, but it's just that — only a guess. I'd like to see that study I mentioned: What has actually happened in the real world?

I don't have a 1909 to check, but judging by my 1915 I would guess that your missing top leaf would be about 9½" long. Lang's catalogue shows it as tapered like the other leaves. The catalogue doesn't show individual leaves for sale, but all the dealers have used parts they don't advertise. You hav...

I'm with Don and Scott. I'd rather pull the engine and do the job out of the car. Anthonie's suggestion of a hoist is especially good with a cast iron hogshead.

I'll get to Model T's next, but first my take on belts in general. If I had a dollar for every media report along the lines of "died when he was ejected from the vehicle" and "was ejected from the vehicle and pronounced dead at the scene" it would add up to a tidy sum. My own personal experience ha...

Also see Bruce McCalley's Model T Encyclopedia.

I was watching videos of the Piquette Avenue plant where the Model T was born, and it occurred to me that some of our folks have never been there and would enjoy a little taste: https://www.fordpiquetteplant.org/about ... he-scenes/.

...how do you make more room at drive shaft end?

Not sure what that means.

The almighty sure thought of natural finish wood wheels in the old days ;) Ford made it option for 1926 too... [/size] Yes, I should have mentioned it becoming a Ford option in 1926. But how many period photos have you seen of Fords having that option? I would guess very few. I think most of the ca...

Fortunately you have an active Model T club in southern Nevada. That would be a good place to start. Here's Bob Coiro's advice on shopping for a T: http://dauntlessgeezer.com/DG98.html This will give you an idea of prices: http://dauntlessgeezer.com/DG99.html This page suggests some places to sell ...

The only one I'm pretty sure of is the radiator. The high radiator was introduced on 1924 model cars (summer 1923), so I expect that goes for trucks too.

Many of the rivets used on a Model T are available from Jim Dix (Big Flats Rivet Co.). You can Google it. Some are easy, others not so much. I finally gave up trying to find a correct top iron rivet and made one myself from a bolt.

My question is how do you paint a T? What colors? What paint? [/size] For colors I prefer original. That includes wheels. So-called "natural" wheels are a modern fad. For wood wheels I prefer body color, as God and Henry intended. I dislike a glossy undercarriage. I think a satin finish on chassis ...

Search found 2561 matches