MTFCA Forum

I'm guessing the early pioneers didn't find the land like that when they arrived. [/size] Yes, the temperate forest originally covered nearly all the eastern part of North America. One writer said a squirrel could have crossed Pennsylvania going from tree to tree, without ever having to descend to ...

...virtually all RTV gasket sealers begin to set up before the gaskets are all in place...

Actually, that's why The Right Stuff is The Wrong Stuff for me. I'm slow, and it sets up too fast. I use Ultra Black, which is slower and doesn't give me that problem.

Norm always gives good, clearly stated advice. There are different versions of the tightening sequence. I think this is as good as any other.

While you're in there, make sure the little ¼" water holes in the block and head are clear.

We still don't know what car this is. If it's a cast iron hogshead I think I'd lower it on with a hoist.

with an engine hoist and a helper it is easy (enough) to do without removing the body or the firewall.

Helper? What is that?

Note the steering wheel back against the seat.

You don't have to remove the body. On my 1923 I did have to raise the front of the body a couple of inches because the guys who "restored" the car installed non-stock wood pieces behind the brackets. I expect on a stock 1923 you can let the body sit. If you do have to raise the front of the body, u...

You just have to tilt it back far enough to get the pedals under the firewall.

Another item you might recommend carrying is at least one spare tube...

Between trips I store them.

I can’t even start it using the starter to crank the engine with the switch set on mag.

I suspect because the starter isn't turning it fast enough. On BAT it doesn't have to turn fast, but on MAG it does.

Only mistake I see is the spelling of mistake.

I wondered if anybody would notice.

Noticed the tire pump fitting lost some threads in the modification process, which would concern me. I'd suggest using a discarded tubeless tire stem with core removed, screw it on the original hose fitting, and then using the stem as a guide carefully drill out the center of the hose fitting. Just...

If you want to know, ask. After recent speculation about when the new 30 x 3 beaded edge (British for clincher) tyres might become available, I emailed an inquiry to Lee Hillsdon at Blockley. His reply: Hi Steve, I would estimate either end of this year or early next year for these. We have changed...

I've added a new page to the website. Let me know if I've screwed anything up or left out something I should have included.

http://dauntlessgeezer.com/DG115.html

I believe Susanne has it right. Ford accelerated and facilitated the change that was already underway. The change would have happened pretty much as it did, but more gradually.

Not as much as you guys up in the frozen tundra, but we even got some here five miles north of Okieland. The weather guy on TV was talking about some single digits in the west end of the state tonight. We're eight weeks from winter, but winter weather is here now.

I would caution against using a vice to close down the end of a T1917 wrench. They will break, unless heat is used.

I haven't had any break, but maybe that was just dumb luck. I'll apply heat.

Before the addition of the electric starter in 1919, every new Ford was sold without a battery. It came from the factory ready to start easily on magneto. But the coil box had a battery post, and the switch had a BAT position. How come? Because Ford was realistic enough to know that not every car w...

Usually you can just drag a photo to your desktop and post from there. If drag & drop doesn't work you can make a screen shot. Either way, the image is often rather small and I blow it up to 700-800 pixels high as I did with this one.

Lang's has them for ten bucks less, but it looks like they're just square tubing. I would buy ten feet of 1" for under $20 and drill my own holes.

The Texas T Party always conflicts with Hershey, so the time for it has passed. I believe it was cancelled this year because of you-know-what.

...just soak them in fresh motor oil prior to installing in the car. [/size] That's after you rivet them on the bands. :) The #1917 band adjusting wrench sometimes has the part number on it. I suppose because of having been used for other things, sometimes the end for the band nuts has gotten sprea...

I've never used an exhaust manifold heater in a Model T, but if it's anything like the one in a beetle it's less than wonderful. In my 1968 VW when driving in freezing weather you would start to get comfortable after an hour or so, even with the J.C. Whitney blower installed. It always struck me as...

You will have to remove three rivets. One is the small rivet that holds the #3530 spark rod lever. The others are the two rivets that hold the #3507 gear case in the column. I would not try to do this with the column in the car. Better to do it on the bench with a vise to hold things steady. You wa...

Was that adventure at Bonebrake and Rockfield as exciting as it looks? I didn't hear any skidding.

What Norm said. Ditch the felt and use little bits of hose.

This is why I don't believe in the plot theory of history. The existence of vast conspiracies would require a sudden, widespread outbreak of competence.

If you turn the switch to BAT before starting, you should hear the coils because they're getting current from the battery. (If you turn the switch to MAG before starting, you shouldn't hear the coils because they're not getting any current until you send it to them by pulling the crank real fast . ...

Let's not forget the new Postmaster General removing sorting machines and cutting overtime.

Ford got away from different colors on his cars in 1917 and black was the only color until 1926.

Not quite. The switch to "any color you want as long as it's black" was on 1914 models.

I don't know how long red tubes were around but I know for sure they were used in the T era.

I've seen old ads showing red tires, the same red as radiator hoses, but I'm not finding a lot of examples with a Google search. Gray and white are pretty easy though. Screen Shot 2020-10-23 at 10.25.45 PM.png 1907 Screen Shot 2020-10-23 at 10.36.22 PM.png 1913 Screen Shot 2020-10-23 at 10.33.23 PM...

Let see if you can do mine that fast!

I expect he can, but you'll have to drive it to Rochester.

When I sat down to chow at a quarter after five yesterday the thermometer outside the kitchen window read 84º. When I got up this morning it was 42º and didn't get above 45º all day. Welcome to Kansas. Early spring here can be pretty dramatic too.

"Model T Ford The Car That Changed The World" copyright 1994 [/size] I have that book, also known as the Model T Encyclopedia, and it is excellent. But I also have the disk version, and it is even better because of all the extra material it contains: 1908-1927 catalogues and brochures; The First Si...

Those of us with 30x3" tyres are still waiting!!

No news yet. Maybe before next year?

https://www.blockleytyre.com/search

What Don said. But seeing the plugs fire on top of the engine doesn't tell you whether they work in the engine under compression. If the other things on Don's list don't get you going, try new plugs (unless you have a tester to check the ones you have).

Using electric start, set the spark lever all the way up and the throttle lever down a little. Turn the key to BAT. Pull out the choke knob, step on the starter button, and let go of the choke when the car starts, and pull the spark lever down to where the engine runs smoothest. When starting a war...

Thanks for all the swell photos, Tom, and enjoy the new building. You may be surprised at how fast it fills up.

Looking at my previous post in the link above, I noticed something I didn't mention. IMG_0412 copy 3.JPG I attached the bracket to the cross member out of the car and installed them together. The bracket and the old cross member had been bolted in, so it was easy to unbolt them and do that part of ...

364$ per tire with Blockley

£149 = $196.68 USD = $257.77 Canadian = $275.65 Australian.

I missed that detail of the post-1919 generator spot. Obviously a later engine, and one of those unnumbered replacement blocks.

I bet that deuce and a half with solid tires really does ride rough.

Replacement engines had serial numbers, but replacement blocks were unnumbered. They were to be stamped with the number of the presumably wrecked block they replaced, but they didn't always get stamped. That's probably what you have there.

There are two national clubs, both excellent. They both sponsor tours and provide information, but most of the dues support their two fine quality magazines. Some local clubs require membership in a national club. Some states have only MTFCA affiliates, some have only MTFCI affiliates, some have bo...

Put it on the inside. If you need it later you can have some young person go under and read it to you so you can write it down.

I asked a seller for the engine number, that is what they sent me. [/size] As Frank says, those words suggest that this is a car Brian is considering buying. That the prospective seller thought the body number was the engine number implies unfamiliarity with Model T's. This may be one of those case...

It's unlikely that the engine has been changed since that 1976 registration, so 566404 is probably the engine number buried under paint. That dates the engine assembly to Thursday, August 27, 1914. The 1915 model year came late, so that date is solidly 1914. 1914: August 1913 to January 1915 approx...

It's a Model T. You won't hear the timing gear over all the other noises.

I see more hints at 1914 or earlier.

The engine serial number should be here. The other photo suggests it may be filled with paint. Maybe some coarse sandpaper will make it readable.

It looks like the date is April 1914; the remainder is the serial number.

Would that remainder be the same as the engine serial number, or are the body numbers separate?

Guys, let's pay attention, shall we? As Norm and I have pointed out, the pictures suggest this is most likely a pre-starter car. Let's aim our suggestions in that direction until we find out otherwise.

It's a lucky thing those small trees were on hand to provide a cushion. It's this kind of event that makes me intend to install AC brakes, not Rockies. I know that's not a guarantee against "special events", but I hope it will reduce the chances of experiencing this particular variety. I'm just gla...

415B is the factory number for part #3047B. The parts book says you can use it for all years 1909-1927. After my bad experience with the failure of a nylon timing gear I would not have another. The same goes for fiber. You can use the original if it's in good condition, or go with bronze (best choi...

First, welcome to the affliction, as the saying goes. Your non-start could be due to just one thing, but more likely it's more than one. This should help: http://dauntlessgeezer.com/DG93.html. That covers everything, so you may not need all of it. The Service Manual is available from all the dealer...

Jim is correct. It's best to read about the best practices and procedures from experts, then ask questions if something they tell you needs explanation. Consulting a good reference can save you the time of waiting for an answer, and sometimes gives you a better answer. Of course there are different...

This morning I took another look at these shots from three years ago during my failed white tire fling. Actually, I think black tires would look better. The white is just too glaring.

Vehicle registration records would probably tell it more accurately than we can.

It would be great if they did, but most states purge the records after a few years.

I remember seeing farmers plowing or cultivating with mules during the war, though most had converted to tractors by then. When I was a teenager in the fifties a friend's grandma was still driving her 1933 Plymouth. In the early sixties a junk man in the Athens area of Los Angeles was still using a...

I get by with just a 3/8" rod and a Big Fat Hammer.

In the assembly and sealing process, pans got brass splattered on them. It corrodes green.

In the past 100+ years there have been millions of Model T's that started easily on a quarter turn, with no alteration of the crank. So your idea, even if it works, is a band aid for a problem that should be fixed. Your T should start like this, with no alteration in the crank: https://www.youtube....

So I wonder why the parts books list the same pedals for 1909-1925. My guess is that the late pedals will work on the earlier cars, but not vice versa.

Look on the other side of that spindle that has the non-Ford markings on it. It would not surprise me if you find a Ford mark there. While Henry famously warned us against spurious parts, this may not be one of them. Ford used a great many parts made by outside contractors. If you have to replace t...

I haven't been taking the time to follow the map lately, but I'm riding along. This one is familiar territory: west in the alley, south (with a California stop at Garfield) to the edge of town, over to 850 W, down to 200N, west into the next county and north on Scottsdale a bit, then west a bunch m...

The parts book says 1909-1925 pedals are interchangeable. The ribbed ones were used in 1915 on US cars, but for many years in Canada.

Of course if you want to be correct for 1913 you need the Holley S or the Kingston Y. I've never used either, so I can't testify for or against either one.

Driving on the relatively flat states between the Appalachians and the Rockies I've never felt the need for one in my little runabout. I intend to have one in my touring when I head west. I don't relish the prospect of low-pedaling farther than it takes to get moving. Some mountain grades are prett...

I'm right handed and crank with my left.

About 12 years ago, there was a rust removal business here in MInneapolis that catered to auto restorers. They had large open tanks full of Evaporust in which they could soak car frames, fenders and other large parts. That sounds a lot like Redi-Strip. In 1982 I had a Packard body and other parts d...

Yes, steel brake line is good.

The line attaches with a #2910 pack nut at each end and a #6154 elbow at the carburetor.

You can use bits of ¼" hose for gaskets in the pack nuts.

I don't know the length of the line. I just cut it to fit.

I believe I detect a bit of trans-Atlantic leg-pulling going on here.

The traffic lights that are really problematic are the old timers that hang on a cable in the middle of the intersection.

Ryan, Non Skids are way cool, but I have read on the forum that they wear faster than other tread patterns.

Pete, here's the Blockley website. I hope they will have front tires available by the time I'm, ready to replace my old ones. https://www.blockleytyre.com/

Here are all the parts: app.php/gallery/image/72.

As the saying goes, welcome to the affliction. I would be dubious about twelve year old tires. I know there are people who brag about driving on tires that are decades old with no problems (yet), but I also know that rubber deteriorates with age. If you do drive on them, go slow and check them ofte...

It is impossible to choke it from the front, cranking left handed.

Of course. I do it this way. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b5ycpdfIjDo

Do you know if they have a stateside distributor?

Not when I checked in July. I believe you do have to pay US customs duties on shipments over $500 in value, so it may be cheaper to buy one or two tires at a time rather than a full set all together.

Yes, they're all listed in the Model T Encyclopedia. The disk version is the best $50 you can spend on the Model T hobby.

http://dauntlessgeezer.com/DG80.html

...but add onto that the bloody vat (Value Added Tax)... [/size] As Allan pointed out, we don't pay it. The exchange rate fluctuates daily, but the last time I checked the Blockley price of £149 was 19% higher than Wards, the least costly clincher sold here. It's actually cheaper than some of the o...

Allan has given the perfect answer. Left is better, but only pulling up is most important. Mark is also correct. Starting on BAT requires no speed, only movement. Starting on MAG the electricity comes from you, so you have to pull fast. http://dauntlessgeezer.com/DG101.html https://www.youtube.com/...

The guy in the video is using steel plugs. Don't do that. They rust. Use brass or nickel. A bit of Ultra Black behind the plug doesn't hurt.

http://dauntlessgeezer.com/DG87.html

I believe your choices are Rootlieb and Howells. As far as I know they are the whole ball game, and panels the parts dealers sell come from them. If anybody knows otherwise I hope they will let us know. My only dealing with either was buying a new splash apron from Rootlieb. The order was delivered...

Yes, I'm running Riversides. I assume they are no better or worse than the other clinchers sold by US dealers, as they are all from the same factory. I believe the only differences among most clinchers are name and price, not quality. The tires on my 1915 have been on both trips to Detroit and back...

23 is a low radiator.

I'm not sure rescuing is the right word for pressure washing the interior.

There's a huge variety of boxes and keys. You're unlikely to find a picture of the right key for your box. I would take it to a locksmith to see if you can have a key made.

My home made one only takes a couple of sizes, but it works OK on them. I was lucky to have a thick enough bit of scrap.

I doubt that there will be one. Getting the information would take the cooperation of many governments, organizations, companies, etc., and would be a huge task.

As Chris says, welcome to the affliction. While the Model T is relatively simple, it does contain some surprises, so It's a good idea to read the Service Manual before beginning a procedure. Example: Just unbolting the starter and trying to pull it off can do serious (expensive) damage to the magne...

I think it was about sixty years ago that I was in Chester and saw winter photos of people walking in trenches through about eight feet of snow. I suppose the photos were on display because the snow was exceptionally deep that winter.

Does anyone actually remove and reinstall bands through the inspection cover?

I did it on my 1923. Being my first time, it was a struggle. But now that I've had the experience I would do it again. You may find that it takes longer than the 40 minutes allowed in the Service Manual.

Yes, I've seen it recommended, so I guess it works. I just stuff rags.

A handy tool is this puller. It pulls the bands around the drums. You can buy it or make it from a piece of pallet strap. IMG_0356.JPG IMG_0363.JPG IMG_0368 copy.JPG IMG_3219 copy.JPG IMG_3261.JPG This is what Chris mentioned to avoid dropping nuts and washers into the transmission (a major PITA). ...

...that's a modified low steel firewall...

Yes, I should have recognized it. I have one.

As for finding serviceable used cotton 'bands' at swap meets, etc, I would advise not installing those.

I agree, and it's very unlikely that anybody would be selling used linings.

I see that as a question with more than one right answer. If my brass era T were a show car and traveled by trailer, maybe I'd pursue the white tire dream. That would be historically authentic and correct. But I want to be like Dean when I grow up. That means lots of driving and lots of miles. My w...

Do I make them myself? [/size] No, that's something that requires weaving machinery. How many parts dealers have you tried? There are more of them than the the two or three that are usually mentioned. Maybe somebody on this list has your linings in stock. **Model T Haven, KS (620) 365-6709 modeltha...

I use stainless. No rust. Some claim they're harder to remove than steel, but they seem about the same to me.

I was the one who bought them, so they can't be terribly expensive.

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