MTFCA Forum

The Hoxton Hotel is just a few blocks down Broadway from this.

...the one on my page is a 65...

On FB?

See three posts above yours.

Senior moment. I missed that.

It looks light blue to me, Joe.

Looking again at the 8-5-28 parts book, we find two flywheels listed. 3269C is for 1911-1919. 3269G is for 1919-1927. I assume that A and B were before 1911, and that D, E, and F were variations between 1911 and 1919. If you are replacing an earlier flywheel, the book tells you to order 3269C and a...

If the car in Wayne's link didn't have some "before" pictures I'd suspect it of being one of those put-together 1915's from the sixties or seventies. There's a lot about it that's right, but there are enough anomalies to indicate insufficient attention to using correct parts. I'm not referring to t...

The 8-5-28 parts book shows no such thing. I suspect aftermarket, though I don't know why anybody would replace a ring gear with something like that. From the pictures it looks like all you would need to install a ring gear would be a set of new screws.

What is the alleged benefit of this device?

I believe you can. But that big cast iron thing is pretty heavy. You want to use a lift.

...and make sure everything is connected-Tightly. [/size] Wise words. A weak starter is often due to a weak ground, not the starter. It can also be due to a dying battery. But this car's refusal to start is likely from something other than slow cranking. Even when cranking by hand, a slow turn shou...

In these parts chain binders are usually called boomers. They turn up often at farm auctions. While they're designed for tension to lock down the handle, it's a good idea to wire it down just in case.

I always thought it was a great-looking TT. Anybody know where it is now?

...but don't expect to actually be any safer..feel safer, maybe, but don't be fooled. [/size] You can make things foolproof, but you can't make them damnfoolproof. I believe making your car more visible actually does make you safer. But some people are just too boneheaded to pay any attention, no m...

Except for the top it looks good, but I'm always suspicious when there are no pictures under the hood.

I believe radiator off and front spring out is all the removal you need. I would cut a wood block to fit over the front bearing and support the jack. The radiator mounting holes should be 21½" on center.

Here are a couple more of Erik's photos of Frank and Howard.

Where did you find rubber stem tubes that fit through the opening in the felloe?

When I had a flat in September I installed a rubber-stem tube with no trouble. It's a Hartford. The wheel is by Noah Stutzman. I don't know if he makes the holes larger than original.

So Summit has at least one tire for Model T. Its the same price as Coker's, so Summit's free shipping makes it a good deal.

If Summit's website lists any Model T tires, it's designed to keep them well hidden. I entered Model T Ford for 1915 and 1926, and got several pages, mostly showing car covers.

Hugh posted the story on FB, but I don't know if he saw it happen. The incident happened during a tour, so I expect somebody saw it.

I agree with Allan. Both sides together.

...always pay the money and get brass stems!

I save $10 to $13 a tube by getting rubber stems, cutting them off, and installing metal ones I've picked up at swap meets for $1 or so.

http://dauntlessgeezer.com/DG110.html

It helps to use long irons. I use talcum, warm the tire, and put it on with 24" irons. It usually takes less than five minutes to mount a clincher.

Trips like this were big and memorable events to the folks involved. In 1929 my mom and her sister, brother, and sister-in-law drove out to Arizona to bring the other two sisters home from summer school in Flagstaff. They talked about that trip the rest of their lives.

https://www.mtfca.com/phpBB3/app.php/gallery/album/44

I still have my copy of Herman & Frieda, and it's not going anywhere.

Gary Paulsen checks out the book while Stan explains a carburetor. January 21, 2012.

You wouldn't get the continuous buzz on magneto because it's not turning fast enough to supply enough current. You may be hearing that continuous buzz from just one coil. That can be caused by the top timer terminal screw grounding against the timer control rod.

The only time I have the sideways photo problem is when I post a picture in a vertical format. So before posting one of those I rotate it 90º (left or right doesn't matter) then rotate is back upright. That always prevents the sideways problem for me. IMG_6720.JPG Without rotation. IMG_6720 copy.JP...

Lights on.

Clincher tires are famously all made in the same factory and vary only by name, tread pattern, and price, with no variation in quality. How about 21" tires? Does the same hold true for them?

I dislike the one from the service bulletin. It's a space waster.

Here's what I use. It's made from scrap lumber. I think I may have spent $2 on hardware.

It's amazing that those guys stamping the serial number got it so straight. I have trouble stamping numbers straight when I do it all by myself. Whenever I've seen that car the hood was closed, so I've never seen the engine. I wonder if it still has the autographs on it.

Nope. Not working.

SIGNS.jpg Some of you will recall that I used to manufacture reproduction old signs. Many were exact reprints of original designs, and many were fantasy signs I made up from period advertising. Almost all of them were an odd non-original size, and all were identified by my name and contact info pri...

My shop is 22' x 38' with a 9' ceiling. I heat it with a Mr. Heater Big Maxx ceiling mounted gas heater. That's way above any potential gasoline fumes, which are heavier than air and go to the floor. I am a cold weather sissy, so my thermostat is set at 68º F. My office/storage room above the shop ...

A Google image search brought up this one in cast iron.

Based on varying experiences by different people, I suspect plastic coils are like reproduction New Day timers or currently available tire tubes—some OK, some not.

Here's what R.V is describing. IMG_4442 copy.JPG IMG_4443 copy.JPG At the top of the mag ring is this contact. The pointed, spring loaded shaft from the mag post pokes into the contact button (solder blob). Note the little indentations made by the mag posts that have been used with this ring. Comin...

A closer look.

If this was a common thing you would probably have some definite answers by now. If a change of mag post doesn't cure it, that leaves just the mag ring. I suppose something there is expanding with heat and making a temporary ground that goes away when the heat dissipates.

I don't think I would want to pull the mag post and check with engine running.

I'd put one of the meter leads against the blob and stuff a rag in the hole around it before startup. That should prevent an oil shower.

You're measuring voltage at the mag post, aren't you, and not downstream of the switch? Old time analog meter, or digital? (You want analog.) Obviously the voltage is dropping if the engine won't run on it, but it's good to have an accurate reading of it. Try removing the mag post and measuring vol...

You should not get a shock from any switch, no matter what else you're touching. Look inside your ignition switch and be sure all wires are where they should be and are properly insulated. There should be no path for current to reach the key. While you're in there make sure the metal tabs are tight...

I would assume the new wiring has the correct colors (mine did), but some of the older reproductions didn't. If you want to check your timer connections you can use this.

: TIMER.jpg (63.67 KiB) Viewed 862 times

I used rope once, but we don't get enough snow here to make it a regular practice.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QKZIGCyp8u8

Does anybody know if I can do this in New Jersey?

Probably. Most states have year of manufacture laws now. Check your state's DMV website.

I register my T's with original plates.

I have to do that, but I only have one.

Before old cars became antiques, before they even became old cars, the idea of keeping them "original", "authentic", or "correct" was not a factor. Look at a Ford parts book from the twenties and you'll see that it lists whatever current parts will fit and work, not necessarily what came with the c...

http://dauntlessgeezer.com/DG100.html

http://dauntlessgeezer.com/DG95.html

I tried to do that too, but there was something about that picture that kept crashing my editing program. Finally I restarted the computer and was able to get this.

Spitting and dying after starting normally certainly sounds like fuel starvation. Lack of power is sometimes a symptom of that too. Put a pan under the car and open the valve on the bottom of the carburetor. If the fuel stops running into the pan after a minute or two, the float valve is stuck or s...

Re: 11/23/19. Stan and Ollie tonight on cable TV at 10:00 Great movie.

Great movie.

I'm not a good candidate to take on this project, as I'm closing in on 80 and it might be a short term solution. I hope one of the younger guys will be able to keep this resource available long term.

Screen shot 2019-11-23 at 12.46.17 PM.png The highest inflation rates have been in 1918 (20.44%), 1946 (18.13%), 1974 (12.34%), and 1979 (13.29%). Since 1991 it has been mostly about 4% or less. Interestingly, the worst deflation was in 1920, not 1930-1932. I guess it was three years of steadily wo...

https://cdn.modeltford.com/uploads/cata ... ations.pdf

I would think that George Pepperdine might object to the spurious part comment. [/size] I went to Pepperdine when it was a small College at 79th & Vermont, before it moved out to Malibu and became a big fancy university. Students were required to attend chapel one day a week, and sometimes he would...

This isn't perfect, but maybe it's a somewhat clearer rendition of the 1911 illustration.

Those were the days when people would pick up pennies on the street! Now I don't even keep coins in my pocket.

I still pick up pennies, and I prefer coins over paper dollars.

That's huge inflation, but you get more for your money now. Dave Nolting's new drums are better than Henry's.

Assuming that what you propose to do is possible, I expect it will be ungodly expensive. I would leave them be as Colin suggests or go with the brass caps available from the parts dealers. If you insist on exactly the right caps, go with these while you look for them. Most people, even Model T peop...

Here are two starts. Listen to what happens as the timing is advanced.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b5ycpdfIjDo

That's $53.75 each. Pretty good, if they're not too old.

In the encyclopedia Bruce says the electric horn was introduced early in 1915, so I don't know why your June car doesn't have the small tube and the button on the steering column. Maybe the column has been changed. Whether you go with bulb horn or magneto, if you want to be heard you'll add a mecha...

Everything outside moves...

???

Are you saying that moving the lever has no effect on how the car runs? Is the timer linkage disconnected?

As Mark says, the spark lever may need more adjusting.
Eventually the engine or the transmission will decide it's time for a tear-down. That will be an opportunity to fix the mag.

With or without coils, generator, and starter would make a difference.

Ford Methods & the Ford Shops is one of the several extras included in Bruce McCalley's Model T Encyclopedia on disk.

http://dauntlessgeezer.com/DG80.html

적어도 한국어는 아니에요.

A Canadian import no doubt, just like the Model T's.

https://www.facebook.com/steve.jelf/med ... 493&type=3

For those who are FB averse: https://youtu.be/621qpNRX_Jw

I didn't do this with a T, but for a T. This morning I drove a couple of counties east to see the Big Boy, and on the way home I did some exploring and found this Model T road I've never driven before. Some of it is rocky enough to be low-pedal driving, and some is high gear road where you can do 2...

This won't help in your present situation, but in future it would be good to keep a list of all your user ID's and passwords. I do that because I'm not smart enough to remember them all. A good password is unintelligible and complex, made up of random letters, digits, and characters, and I can't ev...

Being overdue for another California visit, I've been wondering when I should go. Maybe I should time it to include the HME. I'll drive modern if I do, but maybe I could hitch a ride to HME with somebody who's taking a T.

To be used with a Model T stationary engine.

I bought this fancy one for $2 at a yard sale.

Here's one I cobbled together from scraps on hand.

If I order parts on Monday morning they're in my mail box Wednesday afternoon. It takes that long because the parts have to be fabricated.

What happened to the dog???

That was Daisy. She was a real sweetheart. It looks like she did go outside before I closed the door.

She liked to help me collect firewood.

Here's the flyer, with a form on it. The website says online registration is "coming soon".

https://pwsm.com/wp-content/uploads/201 ... -Flyer.pdf

What I would like is a nice slotted fillister head that has a portion not threaded in an 8-32, 10-32, and 12-32...

Why with a portion not threaded? Where are they used?

If you do decide to go with a closed T, take your time and find one that's right. There are enough of them that you don't have to grab the first one you see. You don't even have to grab the second or third.

I wonder what keeps this rim from slipping on the felloe with braking?

Four bolts.

The parts book lists the 3075 front bearing & spring clip assembly for 1921-1927. The 3810 spring clip bar that goes on the bottom to hold the spring is also 1921-1927, of course. Parts books will often answer questions like this.

Here is the setup used on the earlier cars.

Yes, your car is wearing some extra parts.

IMG_6816.JPG I often see photos posted sideways like this one of Chady Attaberry and Ed Emerson. If you click on it, you'll see it correctly oriented. But I've found that I can make the thumbnail appear correctly when I post it. The sideways problem invariably affects photos in a vertical format. S...

Here's a cure for wheels spinning in the snow.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QKZIGCyp8u8

Yes, the fan setup is 26-27. If we could see the pedals I expect they would say 26-27 too, as the transmission is often replaced along with the engine. The rest of the car may well be a 1919 or thereabouts. The presence of a water pump suggests the car may need a new radiator.

What Scott said. You can buy a chassis that needs a lot of work (and money), or you can spend as much as you can afford for a complete running car. The latter is the less expensive approach.

Is the chassis 1915 too?

12º F here this morning, but that kind of chill doesn't last long here. In a few days the lows will be above freezing. If we get any single digits they're likely to come in February.

...now it takes a passport to get back into the U.S.A....

When Herbie and I came back from our Baja trip in 1970, an orange we had taken with us was confiscated at the border. The agent told us that when that orange crossed the border it lost its US citizenship.

Mat installed and ready to go. I didn't have to trim off very much.

I've never had a floor mat in the runabout, so last week I bought one and today I installed it. The mats are made a little oversize so they can be trimmed to fit various years from 1915 to 1924. This mat is impressively thick and heavy. If it's good rubber it should last a long time. IMG_4394 copy....

If it hasn't been mentioned already, a possible point of failure is in the ignition timer, which some people also call a "distributor." If the main power lead to the timer is cutting out, it could cause all four ignition coils to stop working. [/size] A timer and a distributor are two different cri...

The quiz photo was a low tech affair, with all the pieces laid out together in a single shot. We know the front spring/perch bushing is 2", so compared to that the mystery item appears to be a hair under 1½". That should rule out some suspects.

...if the coil box is the problem wouldn't it not run when on battery as well? [/size] Correct. On your 1923 the coil box has only one input. It takes current from both the battery and the magneto. That makes the switch a leading suspect. I would first determine whether there's normal output at the...

The store front would likely have looked pretty much the same in 1880 or '90.

With the cast iron pieces, it probably is of that vintage, only about forty years before the picture was taken.

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