MTFCA Forum

Spoke with Steve yesterday on this. Will give Chaffins a call.

Steve mentioned there was an issue years ago with quality but have not seen/heard of it in the last 800+ sets they have sold last year. It’s a good back up, just trying my luck for original for a week

I was just looking at those at langs site
how do they work for you?

REF: https://www.modeltford.com/item/BL-LED.aspx

Looking into logolites.
Next will be something for the side lamps (markers). A flickering flame-like bulb would be interesting

That is my backup plan
Looking for originals first
Thanks for links

this good info... thanks Allan, my original thoughts on using reflectors was to not blind oncoming traffic with an led projecting at them.... was hoping a reflector might help break this up some. Ultimately, I just want something that can be retro-fitted to the E&J Model 66 lamps to allow me to driv...

reopening this thread..... looked up Alchemy Mirror and saw they are indefinitely suspended on this service due to Tom passing away last Oct (RIP). so I'm in the same boat, I have a 1911 Model-T with Model 66 brass gas lamps. Would like to convert to led with refectors. Anyone using the nickel plate...

This looks interesting!....

Hoping someone might have a set of 8 original valve retainers and pins for a model-T.
My engine is a 1926.

Ping me if you would like to sell them.

3-angle seat.... found a diagram of this vs a conical seat (single angle)

That's exactly what I like to hear!! I'm blind going down this path, so thank you for guiding me. I was watching a video on youtube of a father/daughter rebuilding the valves. He applied a gritty paste to the valves and had her turn them back and forth several times. I'm guessing this was grinding d...

Here is an example of what I am referring to... A tundra forum I belong has this functionality and I do realize it is a different software pkg running their forum. If our current forum doesn't support this, how much effort would it be to upgrade? Its really nice clicking play in a thread instead of ...

To who administers this forum What is the likelyhood the forum can be upgraded to support embedded videos? I see a huge use for this to show the working order of parts, help troubleshoot model-T issues. Just having a richer context would help keep up with other Model-T forums. This forum is nice, bu...

Here's what I am looking at for this: I will look a little more of the thicker or modern retainers as some of you have mentioned, otherwise I'll go with these... Also from what I am reading, since I am not oversizing the valves (this time around), I can simply use a bottle brush and some carb spray ...

well why didn't ya say in the first place guys? lol.
thanks for clarifying. I imagine I will find that same issue on the one that is crooked.

I read that a few days ago... staying away from the retainer with a slot.
I will compress the spring and insert the pin, the retainers I am looking at are solid without the slot

This

: Screenshot 2026-02-16 at 1.09.09 PM.png (223.14 KiB) Viewed 608 times

VS this

: Screenshot 2026-02-16 at 1.09.25 PM.png (172.63 KiB) Viewed 608 times

Got into the valve plate yesterday evening to check things out..... very glad I did. I noticed was the failing/deteriorating cork gasket. There was small pieces all over the place, so would have been a matter of time before that clogged up an oil port and starved the lower end. Then noticed was a va...

Perfect. Thanks for that info, will give that a shot

its not so much as corrosion I am referring to, it is more of the old gasket that needs to be cleaned off the block...think a wire wheel will do the trick and then generous amount of copper spray.

3n1 gaskets on ther right now are leak free, so will just get another set. I have a brand new exhaust manifold on her, so I know it also is straight. you (Allan) already set me straight on that issue last year. As for the coolant passages/galleys, I have a tad bit of roughness on the edges, believe ...

I use the copper 3n1, so can get another set easily.

Now, aren't you glad you pulled that head? and I'll wager to say that you had ZERO concerns with it then, right? It doesn't sound like you're emotionally or financially prepared at this stage to do any of that, and that's exactly why I am suggestion OPTION 1. I think that's the best option for you ...

all of this helps.... much appreciated and thank you! Here is a link to the last time she was running (summer 2025).... and she sounded great. I even ran her in my chapter show this past summer. Prior to that, she sat in a Ford Dealership showroom for 7 years. Before that happened, she ran in parade...

Couldn't locate anything using the forum search for my concerns... Was looking for some pictures (and guidance) of other's T's showing valves properly seated and without head installed. On the last start up, I noticed coolant bubbling out from the rear head and knew I needed to replace the head gask...

Do it all. Making the front end a little better is not the way to go. not disagreeing with you, I was brought up that saying "do it right the first time, etc, etc...." Its the availability of parts and access to the tools needed, so I'll get her as close as I can for now! Seems I covered that point...

ok good.... well we are now on the same sheet of music.
so I'll keep an eye on that part for where the kingpins drop in and either use Steven's tool on it or just replace it (should thing get to that point).

think it will be fine for now.

let's go this route instead.... use of a picture. what is the name of the steel piece that spans left to right and the spindles mount to with kingpins?..... That is what I am referring to. not sure that is a tierod. pardon the confusion and hopefully that clears up things. 25-07-28 15-31-27 7383.jpg

the steel member that the spindles connect to on each side.
i'm probably calling it something different that is causing confusion.

Picture worth a thousand words. Here is an old video made by Bill Robinerson that explains the Stevens front axle tool. Enjoy. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7DNGT7P79vg Was able to get my passenger-side spindle replaced this weekend (Thanks to Ron - Mile High Pedal Pushers)!! Then greased and pac...

Appreciate the video. Clear as can be now

Think I’m ok on that aspect of things. Zero play in the connection.

Dan Hatch wrote: ↑
Mon Dec 08, 2025 1:27 pm
Most Model T front axles have the hole in the axle itself worn out.
Sounds like a job for Stevens Front Axle Tool!

not sure I follow what you are referring to... can you please expand on this some more?

just a quick update... most of which is in this post: https://www.mtfca.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=50245&p=383284#p383284 Have to find my warmer days to do anything in the barn (way too cold right now)! But feeling like I might have the wobbly wheels under control. Might wait for a warmer day to...

made a little progress on this issue.. re-peened the wheel bolts after tightening those up a 1/4 turn replaced the 3 pinon gears (studs were ok), installed a new brass screw cap.... those 2 cleaned up a lot of slop!! (just need to re-grease everything) next went in for the pitman arm, compared that ...

Been a bit since I last posted.... Got backlogged with some house projects! I've been slowly working on my wobbly wheels issue. Found out it is just a combination of several things, which I have put in a parts order for. Replacing the steering column pinon gears (4 of them), the cover (found a nice ...

I'm back at this project again after tending to some other house projects in the way. Last night I got to king pin bushings replaced, very curious if there is a break in period once they are reinstalled? The swivel motion is much stiffer right now. I applied a very thin layer of grease to get everyt...

Have slight movement in the kingpin bushings, so planning on replacing those. bearings appear to be good, but will also degrease those and inspect for odd shape balls/pins (unsure which will be in there) This weekend I will get to the wishbone along with the steering column. I am aware of lots of sl...

wow this thread grew a lot over the weekend... many many thanks to all that have commented. I have some homework to do now. I do know my steering column has some slop in it, so will pop that open to inspect the gears inside it. Guess I will be going through each component/piece and note what is good...

thank you everyone for the inputs.... will absolutely take a close look at everything that moves. if/should there be any slop in some of the joints, like pitman arm or steering arm is there a way to correct those with bronze bushings / inserts? will also check out the wooden spokes and bolts on them...

Was driving down my neighbors driveway.... which has a couple dips and crowns on the asphault. Speed was maybe 5-7 mph and all the sudden the front end started to shimmy side to side, like the front wheel were wobbling. I slowed down and this allowed for the "T" to correct itself. Since this was my ...

Well I see this forum does use pages.... was wondering when it would roll to page 2. :o :shock: ;) I would not put STP or any similar product in a Model T engine. Model T engines and transmissions require "light cylinder oil", according to period Ford specs, which is about what today's 20W is . 10W3...

Here's what I found... but can't get the guy to respond on the 12v setup.
didn't think these were originally made with a 12v option, so hoping maybe it was converted?

looks maybe a little on the massive side too...
https://www.ebay.com/itm/266317606270

Finally getting to my VIN Verification and Title change over to Colorado compeleted. I ordered a Ford script data plate off eBay with my engine block number engraved on it, should be here today. Were these mounted in any location or somewhere specific? (left side or right side on the inside firewall...

What a day this was today! Great turnout for the Car Games and we had a BLAST there!. Got to meet a lot of people and see some nice T's. Took a while to get there going 50mph with the open trailer, but made it to and from in one piece. And for the best news... when I got home, I changed the oil (fin...

Curious what brass musical instrument would be similar or closest in size for this horn? I can’t seem to locate a brass Ahooga horn so thought a fun project would be to take a musical brass horn apart to make the horn end. Pretty sure I could find a donor on eBay out local store that’s in need of so...

I'd definitely pull the head first to look for leak a source. There are a couple of spots on the block that look like there may have been a gasket seep at some point. I'd find a set of the steel braces that attach from the two top hogshead bolts to the rear engine mounts, too, and check for the lat...

Thanks and it’s been a family vehicle for us for decades. I hand out polishing rags to everything and we all chip in on the brass.

Here's a video of tonight...
Shocked the mess out of myself grazing the plug wires. Think those are worse than a light socket.

https://youtube.com/shorts/KzX6nPRso_M? ... XSMTxxpVGt

Well... I finally got everything back together, but got smacked with some not so great news. It looks like I either have a blown head gasket or even worse, a cracked block. .... The good news is , I now have a valid excuse to pull the engine and paint her pretty and match all the bolts and nuts up! ...

Almost done with parts... adding a cap/plate in place of the generator until I get that replaced My Magento post was in need of a new one (very loose) 25-10-07 16-26-02 7910.png I'll post some updated photos on the seat and floor board. Ordered seat springs from Chris at Snyders, but missed a measur...

I’m 12v now.

Believe this is one of these horns? https://ebay.us/m/PgO9Ec

Seems pretty big but nice polish!

this is an interesting post... I've heard of the Ahooga horn not being era correct for early modelT's, just didn't know they were never an original equipment item. I would imagine there are 2 sides or groups of people when it comes to installing this horn on an early "T". The sound from this horn to...

Better send the remains off to Jeff Stevenson !!! how did you know?.... I've been talking with him today about it. He's supposed to be getting some new armatures and field windings plus he's been a nice person working with. For now I am going to slap a cover plate over the generator mount hole and ...

highly likely my grandfather tinkered with them... That seems to be the common theme with this "T"

Gonna replace the generator a new build one.... I've debated on a rebuilt/refurbished one, but I do not mind spending a little extra to have new parts installed when and where I have the opportunity! I'll stay the path of retaining the generator, I did read about some of the alternators failing due ...

good to know and thanks for the eyes on this. I'll see what I can find for a replacement. Update: Looks like I will be pulling the generator off today to see which model I have. Snyders has 2 different armatures available IMAGE Removed - Wrong armature posted. As an alternative, what are the advanta...

curious of thoughts on this.... Was getting ready to adjust my generator for the new 12v regulator and saw some grime in there. Looks like ghost turds and what seems to be a small wire fragment. It spins with no issue. what would be the worst that could happen by leaving it this way for now? I'm thi...

and that got this back in better working condition...

Latest parts order.... starting to lose track of where I am at in the process!

Found one of these on eBay that was in great condition...

Thank you on the reply Has there been any issues with the wire provided being too small to sit between the starter switch? My starter wire is pretty thick gauge. I suppose I could upgrade the inline fuse to something used in car amplifiers. So just to clarify, we are supposed to cut the wire coming ...

Have been trying to get ahold of Jeff on this.... (left a few messages). Maybe he is out of the office this week? I purchased a 12v voltage regulator... it looks really nice! I got it mounted properly, but I can't seem to locate a wiring diagram to know exactly where the inline fuse is supposed to b...

yep... I have the plastic kit arriving hopefully by tomorrow/sat.
Should look really nice with shiny new parts.

I think the PTFE is the key in this application... but there is an alternative that explicityly states "Approved/OK" for gasoline, which is a thread sealant made by rectorseal. I have a few tubes of this in my plumbing bag. Screenshot 2025-09-18 at 8.34.48 AM.png Screenshot 2025-09-18 at 8.38.20 AM....

It is a PTFE tape, which I did look up as being ok with petroleum products. However when comparing PTFE vs Teflon, they seem to be the same thing unless it is yellow. since the tank isn't installed, I will get that removed to be certain/safe and instead use a liquid petroleum tolerant paste. Thanks ...

Here's a couple shots of the steering wheel assembled...

The coil box...

New fuel tank with sediment bulb

Another order... (bits and pieces) Noticed my coil box was pretty deteriorated and lots of corrosion on the contacts. Item Number Qty Description ------ --- ------------------ 3929 2 Radiator mounting stud - 09-16 3929P 2 Radiator stud plate - 09-27 4725XB 1 Mounting bol set for coil box (wood firew...

Got most of the new parts in today... (updated photos in previous threads) Hoping to get everything put back together tomorrow and over the weekend. Thinking I might be a week out from being able to drive her! Here's the new voltage regulator 25-09-11 19-45-59 7749.jpg 25-09-12 22-22-32 7767.jpg 25-...

Here's the muffler installed... For the most part it sealed pretty tight. I'm going to test out using Permatex Ultra Red on the ends. It has a rating up to 650 degrees F, so used it on assembly. I do not see the Model-T muffler getting to that temp, so hoping this will not bubble up or turn to gum a...

Almost have the muffler rebuild done... just needs just a tiny bit more tweaking on the flange. Having experienced this now, I'de have to flip a coin to see if I would go with an all steel muffler next time. I think there will be several leaks forming around the cast iron and steel connection, so lo...

I feel like there might be a little more tech inside there that a single diode cannot account for. Jeff has done a great job engineering this device. I do not think he would have gone to this extent if all it came down to was a diode.

On a different note,... I've been trying to purchase a 12v voltage regulator. Synders doens't carry them and Langs doesn't have them in stock. So that lead me into trying to research where to get these from or if I needed to make one myself. Then I landed on this page https://www.cool386.com/ford_re...

Also put in a couple more orders... (Langs and Synders) I'm looking at amazon for rubber coated battery cables as I want to get as close to exact lengths as possible, these will be for the starter to switch, switch to disconnect and ground cables Item Number Qty Description ------ --- --------------...

Was able to pull a little bit more (smaller chunks) out using CLR and pressured water, tried the frayed wire method and that got out of hand quick with the drill! Think once she is back together I will do a few more rinses when the block is up to running temp... As for other things: got that bolt on...

...have been reading a lot of the archive articles on here about those that removed their waterpump to allow for the thermosiphoning to do its thing (as originally designed by Ford).

Kinda interested in seeing how that works out...

I'm in need of more than luck..... where do I find the video at? Been searching for a few min and not coming up with anything Ben, Steve Jelf has a great video on flushing the engine and radiator. Good Luck Thanks EDIT: Maybe this is it... https://dauntlessgeezer.com/DG96.html https://www.youtube.co...

could not agree more!.... praying I have the big chunks out. I also forward and reverse flushed the radiator.
wondering if there is a concoction of something I can use to flush it some more?

I've heard that vinegar will dissolve rust...then flush a few more times?

Here's the water pump.... 25-09-05 14-41-36 7709.jpg Guessing some of the cast iron chunks (maybe from the upper inlet elbow that broke off bent the impeller? 25-09-05 14-41-55 7710.png Then made my way to a nice crack (I likely cause then trying to use a screw extactor to remove the sheared screw) ...

so here's where I am at now... Ran into an issue with the water pump, will need to replace that or see if I can find the back piece of one. 2 of the screws were corroded and twisted off, I can now see why as the backs up them are exposed to the water/coolant the entire time. 25-09-05 14-43-42 7712.j...

Fan bolt is locked with cotter against the block, keeps fan bolt in adjustment so it won't work loose and have a fan rattle. locking cotter.jpg And on your timer install, removed the nut below the terminals of the timer case, reverse the bolt on the front plate there, so only the head of the bolt i...

@ModelTMitch
didn't realize you were on this forum... love the videos you have made!
one of the people that kept the idea in my head to someday get mine back on the road.

Steve Jelf wrote: ↑
Thu Jul 24, 2025 10:49 pm
Freeze plugs? If you want them to be period correct...
https://dauntlessgeezer.com/DG87.html

was searching the forum for freeze plugs and read this article... that is a pretty neat idea.
wonder how well this has worked from when it was done?

A question I have on the fan bracket --- I'm guessing this bolt is not original.
The castle nut barely grabs it and doesn't spin (too tight of clearance around it to spin)

Should this bolt be longer and should there be a nut on it?

Moving onto the timer upgrade... I bought 2 seals incase I messed up the first one (which I royally did!). Forgot about the tin can shim trick.... Could have been I was still drinking my shim and just didn't register right away?! And as usual, one project leads to another project! :roll: I had to pu...

ok, so I'm thinking about offering a special to weld up these muffler kits so they dont come apart on backfiring.. pretty quick turn around, did this one in about 10min or less. Any takers? once they are painted up I bet you wont even notice all the slag/mess... you can just rotate that to the top a...

ok... 3rd order Sending back the 3-n-1 Gaskets as I know what these are for. One of my brass side steps was messed up in shipment from Synders, so they are sending a replacement w/RMA tag, so will just throw that and the slip in that box for a refund. Ordered from Synders and Langs on this one.. Ite...

Two things. Scratch the three freeze plugs to see if they are brass. If not, now is the time to replace them. Second, when the two 3 In 1 gaskets are re-used, the separate rolled steel gland rings are not used. There is already a flimsy gland as part of the gasket. Search the forum for warped manif...

and last (for the evening) The steering wheel. Figured since I will be staring at this a lot I might as well make it nice. Steve (Langs) had an original brass spider, think this one is from 1912 or 1913? I need to get it polished. Went with a red, chestnut stain and will use some varathan spar poly ...

some more.... For paint, I am just using what I have on hand. Which is a "Bobcat" branded charcoal enamel paint. It seems to have a since sheen and color that is neutral. glands seated 25-09-02 18-39-13 7649.png 25-09-02 18-38-25 7648.png intake manifold (painted) 25-09-02 18-40-47 7650.png muffler ...

Here a little more progress... Got the exhaust manifold off, cleaned up the ports best I could... was able to scrape out most of the carbon/gunk. Painted the intake manifold since it was messy looking. Wish I had the urge to paint the block and head, but to do it right would mean pulling it, so I'll...

Got the 3rd order in today.... I will still need to get something for filtering the fuel (still debating the options mentioned in the sediment bowl thread) Item Number Qty Description ------ --- ------------------ 2900TF 1 Oval gas tank - 09-27 2913N 1 neoprene fuel gasket - 09-27 2910 1 brass packi...

wish this forum was running a more modern software version that allowed a quick

or thumbs up gesture without needing to respond all the time.

even inline videos from attachments and/or from youtube.

Appreciate the tip on this. I’ll take a look on their site and see if Kevin can make an adjustment.

you are referring to these...

Your cast iron ends look to be in great condition. Give them an overnight soak in something like Ospho to help descale (Might be anal, but after soaking in acid I always neutralize by following up in a water bath with baking soda, then rinsing). Paint as you will with high temp.. I recently bought ...

Next order (this time trying out Snyders) and have another from Langs (need to verify a couple things first) Item Number Qty Description ------ --- ------------------ T-3064 1 Gland rings - 09-27 T-3060-B 1 Exhaust Manifold - 09-27 T-3063-C 1 Copper manifold gaskets - 09-27 T-4026-SHELL 1 SHell kit ...

I am also aware of the pre-made mufflers w/o the cast iron ends.. These are pretty price competitive as an option, but in my case... since I have decent ends, I'm wanting to keep as much original parts as possible (more of a sentimental value since I know my grandfather touched them)

Was able to salvage my cast iron ends.... would like to reuse them with a new shell kit (3-bolt). 25-08-23 19-00-24 7606.png will see if I can get a little more knocked off them, then maybe paint them with high-temp paint (black) 25-08-23 19-20-38 7608.png 25-08-23 19-20-26 7607.png So if I go with ...

I was able to sink them in on the 3rd try. thankfully it is older wood (tighter grain)... I'm always cautious now from working with newer wood having a loose grain. she's starting to come together more!

I've come across a filter that looks like what you posted... it would work, but if you ended up with some trash/sediment in the tank there would be no way to drain it out easily right?... at least not something as easy as turning a petcock valve or removing a bowl.

thinking maybe a rebuild kit on the muffler...

these ended up cleaning up pretty good.

once the plug wires arrive it will finish this off... I may or may not swap the terminal block out and/or might install some brass screws w/acorn nuts through the firewall to get a better grip on the termination ends. This block attaches only by the 6 screws, which made me nervous when tightening th...

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