MTFCA Forum

So, assuming you have survived crossing the multi-coloured floor, is the consensus that if the engine won’t run, then the preferred way to tow is with the hand-brake lever forward and clutch engaged, with the spark plugs removed? (Presumably, if the engine will run and the car is in a condition to b...

- Scott wrote; “I refrained from posting for about a year and it didn't kill me, so rather than annoy folks who I respect, I'll simply focus on my items "for sale".” Dear Scott, Please do not rob our ranks of your knowledge, experience, and skill. The members and guests here benefit from your input...

This reminds me of about 40 years ago, driving 20 odd miles between rig sites in Papua New Guinea, along a track much of which had a cliff up on one side and a cliff down on the other. I got to the site, waited for the chap to open the gates, let the clutch in and 'click'. That's odd, I thought. It ...

This reads like an AI account to me. Ask something weird like if he can check whether the 2 nipple-twist adjusters on the back are still in place.

Farmer J wrote: ↑

Tue Oct 28, 2025 9:21 am

The solution to this problem is very simple. If you really like the forum as it is, but don’t want to pay the $50 membership dues then send a smaller donation to the club for your part in helping keeping the forum going.

Well that sounds pretty fair and easily done.
Done!

It has been said before but lets review the wisdom of allowing anyone to post on this forum. I notice there are currently 6 registered members and 116 guests on this forum. Guests should be few and temporary, not the majority of users. Lets support MTFCA and limit forum access to MTFCA members. I'm...

Thank you so much for that. >> Most all cotter pinned bolts are Fine thread on the T. Well that makes sense and I really should have engaged brain first! And thank you for the shortcut link to the Gallery - I had found the amazing Vowellart diagrams but not gone as far as the bolt chart. Really, the...

A nylon washer will wear fast, use steel or bronze, and replace that nylon lock nut with correct castle nut and cotter pin. Steering has to be safe. Factory style repro spindle connecting rod bolt, with flip top oiler, inside the arm is a repro spindle arm steel bushing, and correct castle nut with...

Thank you for all the comments - I have a bit to think about then. @TRDxB2 & @Jerry VanOoteghem Thank you - the left arm does have an S curve to it but it doesn't seem to be as exaggerated as the right one. And both curve up, so the tie-rod end is higher than the spindle end. It doesn't look mangled...

NOS spindle arm bushing is .985 in length. Thank you so much - I appreciate your going out to measure that up. That pretty well nails it as wear. As I've been mulling this over, perhaps the best short-term thing is a hard nylon washer top and bottom to prevent more wear. I'd quite like to drive it ...

It's somewhat normal for spindle arm wear in that area if the lubrication was neglected as was the case in most Model Ts ! I'll go out & measure a new bushing for length, but I suspect it's just wear on the arm - not the tie-rod. Ah - thank you. It shows how you can get your mind fixed on something...

Thanks for the comments. It doesn't look like wear to me... so it sounds like it is the incorrect tie-rod. On the plus side, the pins and bushes are nice and tight, the tracking seems pretty much OK and it drives well. So maybe I find a suitable spacer as a short-term thing and put finding a correct...

Hello from the UK, I am new to Model Ts and am 6 weeks into owning a 1924 Tourer. Although should I say Touring, since it was imported from the US? It was 're-built' 20 odd years ago (no real history...) to 12V alternator, starter, indicators etc to make it an every day car rather than a show car. P...