MTFCA Forum

Ah - got it, sorry

I have nearly completed all the re-upholstering in my '27 Tudor. I worked back to the springs, repainted what was still useable. The drivers seat spring was too damaged and the new one was in the mail yesterday. Then I applied new cushions and sewed the upholstery with a period correct fabric. Will ...

ironhorse wrote: ↑

Tue Feb 10, 2026 2:19 pm

The Chinese think we are stupid ... and I have proof!
instrument.JPG

The fuse does normally protect the low current measuring circuit. Not the battery.

Hello.

Are you shipping to Germany? What will postage be?

Best regards,
Jens

Reminds me of LEGO has announced a 1060 piece set for a Model T in spring next year.
For a short time I wondered, if the the LEGo-set would have more pieces than the original
Jens

With that thread another question comes into my mind.
If towing is not preferable - what if the road service wants to crane a T on a tow truck?
I think the typical lift points (rims) are not the best idea for wire wheels, aren't they?

Allan wrote: ↑

Tue Dec 02, 2025 5:03 pm

Check that the front bushing is not binding on the radius between the bolt shaft and head.

Good idea - I will check that. Also if the bushings are pressed in completely. Else the washer solution will be used.
Thanks to all.

Even more weird: In all those 26/27-images the shaft is declared as 3966B, but in the shops the shaft with the recession for the wrench at the end is 3966C. The early 26 does not have that support plate. There the dustcap seems to fit against the 'step'. But as it seems for me there's not enough spa...

Strange.
Found an assembly picture here: https://mtfca.com/phpBB3/download/file. ... &mode=view
But for me it's same problem.
If I tighten the nut (3986) hard enough that it doesn't come off I press 3987+3982+3983 against 3974B.
In the end it can't turn anymore. What's the trick here?

Hi. Bringing this thread back up again because right now I am trying to reassemble my early '26 fan hub (the one with the clamping bolt on the underside, short version). I changed the fan blades and seal, cleaned everything up and try to get it back together like in the sketch above with felt seal a...

Took that mysterious dizzy out of my '27 Tudor last weekend. Which was of course bolted on to the commutator spring screw. So bleeded and took out the radiator also. No problem so far - want to change back to original style piping anyway. Tried to put on the red hose to the radiator outlet - someone...

For setting up I plan to use a 4-channel DMO and current clamps. I think this will do the job.

Hello all. As I was not feeling confident with keeping my distributor (see here: https://www.mtfca.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=49977) I am now on my way back to the roots. I was able to get a 26/27 coilbox on ebay with four coils in it. I disassembled all the rusty points and made some measurements (...

This one really looks similar. Found no more numbers on it, but here are two more photos of how it is mounted: 20250928_114115.jpg 20250928_113945.jpg As long as it works - why should I swap. It seems to be adjustable (turnable) when loosening the two Philips-screws below. Of course - coil boxes wou...

Thanks for your information so far. I am going to look for further numbers on the dizzy. What I think is interesting ist the last digit of the typenumber (quite hard to see on the photo): it's VEK4BR315 T The "T" seems to be somehow added. Maybe it's just a coincidence, but maybe it was a special ve...

Had an easy job this month - I just bought one:

Hello. I recently bought a 1927 Tudor and I am now trying to figure some things out. One of them is the distributor. I have searched 'the whole internet' by now, but I can't find any information on this: 20250925_182559.jpg 20250919_174354.jpg 20250919_173901.jpg Somebody ever seen this one before o...