MTFCA Forum

I hope they don't do it.

This is total trivia, but I find it interesting. I have several NOS Sediment bulb inlets for the 1912 and later bulbs. The factory number on the sediment bulb is 2088, but the inlet is not listed. I find that interesting in that most of the inlets I've seen are either plugged, or have a hole punched...

Thanks Steve. I really feel uneasy about removing that valve stem. It seems like it is plastic! I guess I'll just have to do it, and if it doesn't work out, I'm out the cost of the tube.

The example of the copper plated wide brush holder isn't copper plated at all! It is solid copper and was probably made by the former owner. I have yet to see an original New Day brush that used the wide style as used today.

Please note the brush holder is copper plated, and the actual brush is smaller than the Tip Tops.

I'm not good at pictures, but this is the best I can do for now. If needed, I can try again.

Can anyone tell me if they have successfully cut off a Hartford valve stem, and replaced it with an original Schrader?

Steve: I've tried several times to contact you. You don't answer. One thing that is being omitted here is the Schrader 888. I have been cutting off rubber valve stems for over 20 years. I like the 888 over the 777 because it does the same thing, and probably reduces the weight slightly. It sticks ou...

Where are you people coming from?

I just measured the distance across the face of a NOS New Day timer brush, and it is 7/16". I don't have a newer one to compare it to.

A 26-7 wide drum can be turned down to the early style by a competent machinist. Just be sure to get the lip done at the same time. The added benefit is the brake shoes.

Looks very authentic to me.

How come no one has posted a picture of an original New Day timer brush?

Has anyone experienced removing a valve stem from a current Hartford tube. I've been doing it for years on regular rubber stem tubes, but these valve stems look like plastic. Am I correct or ?

WTB, a late 25 open car dash board in good shape.

I like that kind of stuff Dan! Thanks for posting.

Don't do it! There are plenty of 26 blocks out there. I have a complete 26 unrestored engine I'm willing to sell for $500, but would have to be rebuilt.

This past week we attended the 17th annual Ryan Ramble in Greyeagle, California. 38 cars attended. This was my 7th time to attend. It is a great get together. We travel around 100 miles per day. I racked up 300 miles total, and never lifted the hood! The meet is put on by the Ryan family, and is a p...

This past week we attended the 17th annual Ryan Ramble in Greyeagle, California. 38 cars attended. This was my 7th time to attend. It is a great get together. We travel around 100 miles per day. I racked up 300 miles total, and never lifted the hood! The meet is put on by the Ryan family, and is a p...

Do your homework, and decide what you really want. Go to some get togethers and mingle with some owners, and perhaps snag a ride. Don't rush into it! Take your time.

The valve stems Ford used are not currently available. The ones being used now were originally used on much larger cars than Fords, and even though they will work, I don't like them! The Model A hobby was successful in making correct valve stems for their cars, why can't we all take up a collection,...

To my knowledge, Ford didn't use flaps.

I have thousands of miles with nothing but New Day timers. One point that has been overlooked is the brush. The original brushes are about 1/32" smaller across the top of the brush than the newer ones I've seen. I have a NOS brush in my hand now. I don't know if New Day ever made the wider style.

The ratchet in your photo is definitely the early style. Clean it up, and reuse it.

I'm looking at a new Hartford tube now. I wonder what the valve stem is made of? I hope it's not plastic!

Something that hasn't been mentioned is the ratchet. I don't know when the size was increased, but it did happen. Perhaps when they came out with the new crankcase? The newer style ratchet will work in the early pans however.

I have a set of Excelsior tires I bought over a dozen years ago. They now have over 11,000 miles on them, and show now appreciable wear. I also have the USA made tubes in them with rubber valve stems which have held up equally well. I understand quality USA tubes are no longer available which is dis...

I don't believe Ford would have made these pickup boxes without the battery access plate since it was a $25 option anyway.

Where is the battery access cover?

Had a chance to check the triple gear pins?

The early oil cans are quite different from the later oil cans, and have the Ford script in two places.

I attended this morning. It was great seeing so many old friends

I wish it was like the old days when you could actually find some good parts!

What is a claw?
Never drive out the old bushing unless the front of the pan is held in it's proper location. and use plenty of WD-40.

They aren't real common. I have a few of them.

I believe the splash shields on all body styles were the same in 1913.

In this hobby, I got the name Original Smith because of that. I was in my early 20's and was always looking for NOS parts with the Ford script. There was a junk yard in Gardena, that had bins of parts that came from an old store in Los Angeles called HENRY'S and LIZZIES. That is where I used to find...

Do they have the Jno Brown logo?

There is a fellow in Auburn California that has been making top sockets for over 50 years. I have never heard of a complaint!

Get Ron Patterson to rebuild them. They will last forever.

There is your problem! You have repro sockets.

Kim Dobbins recently donated an unrestored 1910 Touring to the Piquette plant.

I finally got the limiting rivet for the cushion spring where it should be. I had to smack it hard several times to get it right. The rivet looks like a very small semi-tubular rivet. Keep in mind this is a reproduction early KW vibrator bridge, not an original.

If you have non demountable wheels, there isn't much you can do.

The points I have on my 1913 coils are the new reproduction type KW points. Randall Anderson put these on for me several years ago. All are fine except one. There is a limiting rivet on the vibrator bridge that limits the clearance on the cushion spring. This clearance on several NOS late style poin...

As I recall, the units are not interchangeable.

I'm adjusting the coil points for a 1913 KW Coil. The points that are on the coil are the ones that Randall (RIP) Anderson had made about 10 years ago. On the upper, top point. the cushion spring is way greater than it should be. I just checked a NOS late Ford script coil point, and that setting is ...

Hanson Rivet & Supply 13241 Weidner Street Pacoima, California 91331. When I was selling T parts, this is the company I bought from.
800-777-4838. www.hansonrivet.com

All three of my T's have NH Carburetors. I have not had good luck with Viton tipped needles. There must be an additive in California that attacks the tip. Too bad. It seems like a real good idea. I wish someone would make a needle and seat that duplicates Fords original design.

I am hoping someone may have a jar of these clips laying around? Maybe I'll luck out?

I want to make a new top boot. I have the strap material, which is 5/8" wide as per original. I can't find the caps which are called C tips too. I used to be able to get them from Mark Cameron, but he must not have any more?

There are two different spark lever designs. One is straight, and the other bent one is earlier. Maybe that's your problem?

I'm happy that we are friends. Too bad we don't live closer!

What is a Bitner coil? Never heard of them! I use only genuine Ford coils rebuilt by Ron Patterson. Never have a problem.

I failed to mention, I do the same for the wishbone. Sorry I failed to mention that.

I deal with Calimers. I wouldn't consider anything else. Perfect job every time.

When I rebuild my front ends, I pack the pitman arm ball, and the tie rod ball with old fashioned fiberous wheel bearing grease, but what about the future lubrication? If you wish to remove the ball caps and repack them, good for you. I'm a little bit on the lazy side, so this is what I do. While oi...

WTB: A late 1925 open car dashboard. They look quite similar the the early ones, but are different. The hole for the carburetor adjustment is 1/16" larger diameter, and the indentation is different too.

Don't do it! It's fine the way it is. Find a top for it somewhere.

Can anyone supply the distance they moved the front stake pocket back to the second design?

When did Ford incorporate the diffuser inside the transmission cover? My guess would be 1925, It is cast into the cover inside just under the top of the inspection cover.

Try the classifieds.

It's nice to see someone finally posted a correct photo of a Model T bridge washer! Why can't Coker do this?

I have that exact part on my 1925. It's a Stewart part.

I remember seeing a Model T when I was stationed in Hawaii back in the 60's and 70's.

Good Stuff! I usually like to keep my stuff as authentic as possible, however, I have a perfect replacement for the 777 valve stem. It's still a Schrader, but as noted above is 1/4" shorter. The valve stem is an 888. It uses the same bridge washer and nut. The reason I prefer this 888 is that most l...

I would be interested in finding that information too! A&L is a great company for Model A stuff, and their Model A valves stems are great.

I'm trying to find out what valve stem was used on a 1915 Jeffery. I know this isn't T related, but maybe someone can help me help my friend. This is for an inner tube. A Schrader number would be helpful. I don't know the tire size.

I need to find out the tire valve that was used on the 26-7 Ford wire wheels originally. I also want to know if this valve was carried over into the 28-9 Model A production. The reason for this question is that the die hard Model A guys were interested in getting the correct valves stems for their c...

I would never bore out the hole in the rim to fit those modern valve stems! It's easier to file or sand paper the base of the rubber stem to fit the tube. Whey mess up a factory rim? A little bit on ORIGINAL VALVE STEMS. Most of us know Ford used 777's from the factory. I have found from my experien...

I would never bore out the hole in the rim to fit those modern valve stems! It's easier to file or sand paper the base of the rubber stem to fit the tube. Whey mess up a factory rim? A little bit on ORIGINAL VALVE STEMS. Most of us know Ford used 777's from the factory. I have found from my experien...

What have you done to that tube? It looks like you have a bunch of rubber cement around the area where he stem used to be. It should be clear, and only the portion of where the stem used to be. Only then can you start smoothing the area for the original stem. It may take some time. I usually start w...

There is some misinformation above. I do like the details, especially original nuts and bolts. However, every T I own has ORIGINAL Rocky Mountain Brakes, and a Ruckstell. BTW, the house pictured in back of my roadster is the Gamble house in Pasadena. How many of you know the difference between origi...

Want to buy a late 1925 open car dashboard. The hole for the adjusting rod is 1/4", and is recessed further than the earlier ones which use a 3/16" rod.

I don't believe T's ever came from the dealer with a battery? The switch has always had a battery side and a mag side. I wonder if the Ford dealers back then kept a supply of battery's for customers cars? I don't believe Tesla dealers would be selling those cars if the batteries exploded very often?

I have two 1913 T's that require a battery for cranking. I have found a Lithium battery that is about the size of a Model T coil to work very well. The best part is they are 12 volt, and fit nicely along side my spare coils under the seat.

Something that Steve has overlooked, is the new rubber valve stems have had too large a base for over forty years! They have had to been filed down to fit through the rim to fit. Back in the early sixties when you could buy Monkey Ward, and Firestone tubes we didn't have that worry.

I just checked the tire pressure on all four of my tires on my 13 roadster. It is so nice to know I'm using the original correct valve stems, and using an original Schrader inflator and an original Schrader pressure gauge too! It's just a good feeling!

I have the sheet music for most of those, and another on a player piano roll.

Anyone have an idea when the change from 6 screw coils to 4 screw coils is?

Should you be working on an original switch, do not assume the 6-32 screws that hold the brass plate on are the correct length. Try one gently to make sure it will work properly. I had a NOS switch that I decided to upgrade with a nicer looking plate. The screws were a tad too long, and pulled out t...

Take note of the original bridge washer pictured above. The reproductions don't have the ridge seal stamped in.

I agree with Steve. I think they are ugly. and they are using the wrong valve stems for their tubes.

Does anyone know the month in 1913 the rear axle fill plug was changed from slotted to hex? No guessing allowed!

I've got mostly Schrader stuff, but have some Dill and Bridgeport. Stick with the old stuff. You can use the old dust covers on the new valves, but why?
If you had the correct rim nut you wouldn't have to screw it down so far!

That is not a 1915! It may be a 1916.

Someone probably had that transmission apart, and replaced the shaft with an early one.

It appears to me your leather straps are back too far. I agree with Dan.

Wanted to buy a late 1925 open car dashboard in good condition. Have lots of the early style to sell or trade.

The judging guidelines don't go far enough. Ford redesigned the dashboard to accommodate the new style adjusting rod, which is now 1/4" not 3/16" as was used earlier in the year. Because of the new style knob, the indentation for the knob is now recessed deeper into the dash.

The new tire valve parts are garbage! Nothing has been done correctly! Do not buy any tubes unless they have rubber stems, which you can cut off and smooth to accommodate ORIGINAL valve stems. All the current manufactures are aware of this, and choose to do nothing! The Model A Club has.

The bent rod they are referring to is probably the rod from the steering column to the carburetor. They are not clear in the increase in size for the carburetor adjusting rod, and no mention of the knob itself. There are seven different lengths of adjusting rods from 25-27. It took me a long time to...

I use 140 grade oil in my fan, and it does not leak.

The judging guidelines says the carburetor adjustment was changed in 1925 to a bent rod design. What is that supposed to mean? Here is what I know. Sometime in mid 1925 the carburetor adjusting rod was changed from 3/16" to 1/4". At that time the 1926 carburetor adjusting rod was changed, but when? ...

Photo #2 is interesting to me. George Sutton Ford was located in Inglewood, California until the 1960's Any additional information would be helpful.

There is a NOS Ford script 1925 Coil Box lid on ebay now.

Been coming up for years. I will be there Saturday afternoon, and Sunday.

John Wilson owned it most recently.

What brand of headlights are on the Toll House car?

Yours is the earlier style!

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