MTFCA Forum

Almost from my start, 60 years ago I've been interested in the correct bolts used on the Model T's I've owned. I assembled a 1925 pickup about ten years ago from scratch, and I guess 98% of the bolts I used for that car are original factory bolts. Once you learn them, they aren't hard to spot. Latel...

The archives may have what you need. I got the print for my 1925 side curtains from them.

The picture you posted, is not the side that comes off!

I need an early style steel speedometer chain link casing, with the proper narrow knurl on both ends. The length and plating is not important.

WTB: I need a good original heel panel for my '15 touring. The car had an auxillary transmission once in it's life, and someone did a horrible job of patching the cutout for it.

If you are never going to go much of anywhere, then you wheels will be ok. For touring, I'd replace them. Paint them too! Many people won't agree with me on that one. There are many wheel makers out there, but the best is Calimer's in Pennsylvania.

I failed to note for you to notice the hole in the firewall for a 1913 steering column.

Here you go guys! I did it just for you. I don't work on it much, but try to get a little done on it daily. Here is the engine number: 378058, Nov. 21. The car has few miles on it, probably because the driven gear was shot before I bought it. The hand crank is a tight as new, and still has an alumin...

Yes, I know. I hate taking pictures. Maybe I'll get around to it. My car is more of a '13 than a '14! The firewall is still drilled for a '13 steering column, although it has a '14 steering column. I have the sediment bulb problem fixed, no leaks. The car was built in November of '13.

I wish someone would do a post like this on a 1925 roadster pickup! Maybe I might learn something!

I hope a U.S. dealer will soon carry the Blockey brand. From what I've seen so far, I think the tread design is not good looking. Perhaps if I was to see one I would change my mind. Next, on the tubes. I wonder if the valve stems are the same exact dimensions as the originals, and if they supply tub...

I recently acquired a very low mileage 1914 touring. As with many models up to 1925, the sediment bulb handle was broken. Since I had a spare, I was able to replace it, but I had no way of telling if the screen was good, so had to remove the that assembly which was not even serviced when new! The sc...

You will probably want to remove the clutch dis drum too. You will need the special puller that Ford made for doing this.

Bob: I have my checkbook out ready to roll, but don't know how much the postage will be to Los Angeles. You should have received my address.

Bob: I would like to buy one of your ventures. I have never used a G, but understand they are almost always bad. I have a couple of G's laying around, and it seems like a good idea. I live in Southern California.

That's the good one Mark, and your price is fair.

Gene: Why not think about rebabbiting camshaft bearings?

Are you the kid I saw walking around Luray looking for 1926 parts?

I never used the felt packing until recently. I don't know what took me so long! When I was younger I used to find NOS fuel line nuts with the felt packing installed. Haven't had a problem.

That Scandanavia lining is the good old stuff. Use it!

Mark: The ones Tim has are exactly the same as Ford used on the windshield carriage bolts. The ones in your picture are not correct.

Mark: Tim Morsher is offering free correct lower side curtain hooks for your car. The ones you have pictured are not correct.

Very kind of you to offer these Tim.

Some have the markings, and some don't. Keep in mind they were used on the '09-12? tourings too. They use two special carriage bolts, a cross between a carriage, and a step. They have a 1/4-20 thread. The square nut is 1/2" across the flats. Please correct me if I'm wrong!

The link that Gene posted is a very nice copy. I have seen those before. I fail to remember when Ford introduced the brass breather caps, but I believe it was in 1912. They don't say Made In USA.

I have made numerous top boots for my cars. Like everything else, you have to ask yourself if you want a factory original style, or do you just want a boot that will work? I have made mine exactly like the originals. I don't know if the research center has the prints. They might. I've been lucky to ...

I still like the old fashioned fiberous type. Sta-Lube still makes it.

Up until about April 1925 Ford used the standard seven leaf spring. About that time they came out with the new style eight leaf which was used through the end of production, and is one inch lower than the previous seven leaf. Most likely the nine leaf is indeed for a ton truck. Probably the parts bo...

I would like to post photos of the original side curtains I have, but they are in a pile of others in the rafters in my garage. I'm on the road now, and can't even find any photos of originals I have pictures of. Maybe after I get home. What would be really cool if someone would make the white Ford ...

All you did is remove the flutes! There is no separate casting there period, and there isn't a lip on the rear flange either.

I tried an Optima in my original Ford battery box, and it fits on an angle like Dan posted. As I recall, I had to put a piece of plywood under it to bring it up to the height of the original Ford Battery.

The secret to side curtains, and everything else is research. I don't see much merit on the above post, only guesses! I made mine using originals, and original Ford prints. I also use original fasteners. Even the top has one side curtain fastener on each side of the top flap over the windshield.

I have a '14 like that too. Everything on my car is 1913 except the body. Even the firewall has the hole for the 1913 steering column, but it has a '14 steering column.

RV offers that service at an additional cost with his rebuilt field coils.

In 1960, I had just graduated from high school. My dad wouldn't let me have a Model T until I got that diploma! I found an unrestored 1926 touring in San Marino. I joined the Long Beach Model T Club then. There was an old timer that had a '26 roadster pickup that he bought new. It was his daily driv...

I don't believe the USA torque tubes did either.

There are two types of Ford steel helical gears. Four spoke, and three spoke.

Leave it stock. You will be better off!

Since your car has a starter, why are you worrying about the crank????

Mark: I believe you are right, but you would be surprised at what you can pack in there. I have side curtains a battery, and tools plus a spare timer.

Dan: It would be great if you could supply a copy of your template above to us lazy guys to use? I've made several gas lines over the years, just eyeballing it. They have all worked well. Lately, I've used the felt packing, as original, with no problems whatsoever. I look at some of the photos above...

I remember seeing T's in the early fifties. There were a few that had never driven anything else!

As I have said many times, you are either in Ruckstell or you aren't.

The MTFCI offers a reprint of the Ford Service Bulletins. In it you will find all of the makers marks that Ford used.

The cap has no bearing on the body style! That cap was introduced sometime in 1924 I believe, and as noted above is pot metal. If you aren't careful, you will break the ears off of it. If you do, there are very good looking reproductions that look the same.

This is the reason I posted this! At the moment, it appears only Fisher and Monroe installed tool boxes in back of the gas tank. I have a friend that has two '14 roadsters, and neither one of them even have room for the tool box in back of the gas tank!

You can use the 25-27 NH carburetor on your '13! I do. Just change to the earlier spray needle and 6208 clamp nut. That way you can use your original carburetor adjusting rod.

I agree with John. However, I have a copper line on one of my cars that I put on it when I was a teenager, and it has ferrules too! It is still on the car with over 57,000 miles. I know better now, and use brass tubing with the original felt packing at each end. I haven't used steel brake tubing yet...

As usual Tom, great photos!

Dan, of course they did! It's called the wide cowl body, and even used a new design floormat.

There is a guy up north that has a '13 roadster with a Monroe body.

I don't understand why you would want to use a 26-7 carburetor on a '13? Why not change the spray needle?

Most of the coils you have pictured are not worth the effort to repair. Here in the U.S. they are easy to find. Since you are in Europe, I suggest ebay.
You probably don't have cores that are rebuildable. You can buy coils from Fun Projects, or other dealers such as Langs.

The ones in the photo don't appear to be NOS. They are NORS.

There are two totally different bodies used in 1925, early and late. You need to understand the difference before you decide what to do. The late '25s have a metal tool compartment in back of the gas tank. The wood is similar, but that's it. You need to know the difference.

Well done young man! Don't stop learning, and don't believe everything you read on this forum! Understand the information in the Ford Service book, and you are on your way. I realize there is little information as far as pictures go in there, but there is plenty elsewhere!

I was pleased to visit Dennis Flemings home during the Luray meet. He recently acquired a very nice'14 runabout. This one has the built in tool box at the rear of the gas tank. I have a '13 that is the same. Mine is a Fisher. I wonder if his is too? Another technical question: Do the '14 tops taper ...

Keep posting these photos Tom!

The best thing for you to do is to convert it back to a 1921!

The half moon over the coil box lid is the first thing I check to see if a car is a true 1915. There are a whole lot of other things too. Here in So. California there are far more fake 1915's than real ones, so it's good to check.

Keep them coming Tom!

Langs sells them. I've used mine a number of times. I'd rather have that original though!

I flew out from California. Had a great time, and as mentioned the weather was perfect. I saw lots of people I rarely see. and then some. Even though I've met Dennis Fleming many times at Hershey, I can say finally that I know him. I also spent time with Jim Lyons who is also a great friend and very...

You should do your homework! Both styles of radiators are genuine Ford. The ones with the short skirt are replacement radiators made by Ford after the 1916 model year, and discontinued in 1925. Even though I'm not a fan of the Brassworks, because they don't follow Fords methods, they are doing that ...

On page 11, the top photo incorrectly dates the cars as coming from a 1919 catalog. That is impossible, as two of those models were discontinued by that time! Those are all early 1917 models.

I posted the note on Sat Sept 26, and several more previous to that. Initally I had little to go on, but was able to obtain brass tubing from McMaster Carr, and the T connection elsewhere. I don't believe using copper stops would pose a problem, since no gas contacts those areas. If you need additio...

You wanted to know what an equalizer is. Assuming you are referring to outside brakes, it distributes the pressure from the brake pedal equally to the rear wheels. All original accessory brakes except Bennett used a cable. Bennett, which is what the current Rocky Mountains copied uses rods, which re...

I've posted numerous pictures and information in the past weeks and months on this subject. I posted photos of a '14 I recently bought that still has all of the original components, including the hose last week.

There is a small brass clip held on with two small brass round head nails near the #1 spark plug terminal probably about 4" away. Maybe someone has a photo?

Mark: I fold mine as I'm putting the top down.

The best thing you can do for now is to buy the Ford Service book with the section on the improved cars. That is how I learned, and I started with a 26 touring just like you. Don't sell that NH carburetor!

Tim, your 26-7 plate was also used in 1925!

The latest MTFCI judging guidelines are pretty good, but they need to be revised again.

Looks like you should do some more research!

Your final photo looks pretty good. I tuck everything in as neat as I can. I made an exact copy of a '17-22 boot that I use. It fits nicely, but does not cover the sides that are attached to the rear sockets. By the time your car was made, Ford was not supplying top boots. If you choose to do this, ...

The best thing to do is read the Ford Service book! The reason those washers won't fit is because they don't go there!

Pretty common I'd say. That is the style that came after the 1913 type.

Pete: That is a nice clear one. I have two like that, and a couple of others with no markings.

The best thing to do is pack it full of grease when you have the engine or rear end out.

I don't think I'd want to use those wide ones. I believe the idea of the correct bridge washer is to force the clinchers apart. I don't see how those wide ones can do that. Has anyone tried A&L Model A parts? They are up in Mass or Conn somewhere.

It's a good idea to have a can or two of extra bolts. The suppliers are doing a pretty good job of supplying new ones lately. The best supplier for the really hard to find bolts is RV Anderson. He has bolts that can't be obtained anywhere.

Some have part numbers, but most do not. It is located on the forging at the yoke.

Here are some photos of the correct gas light tube on the radiator, and the frame tube at the front. Note, the frame tube is routed on the inside of the two steering column to frame bolts. This car still has the original red rubber hoses which are 7/16 diameter. The two tubes to the headlights are 1...

Contact Keith Townsend in Gresham, Oregon.

Is your coil box the 1913 style?

Keith: Do you have an example of one without the B ? I'm working on a plain one now for my '14, which was badly pitted. I think probably a former owner of my car kept the good one for a souvenir?

I have an early carburetor adjusting rod with the forging number 1359 B. What came first, the one I just mentioned, or the plain ones. No guessing please. I'm only interested in facts!

There are two lengths of those that I'm aware of. My '25 has the two screw striker plate, and the lower screw goes through the striker plate into the hole in the top iron.

Take a look in a '26-7 parts book under late carburetor adjusting rods. I believe there are seven different lengths! I think the one on my 1925 is 23".

It is true that Ford went to the two hole quadrant in 1925, however, there are many frames around that didn't use the inner two holes during the transition period in 1925. When I was building my late 1925, I had to drive to Elko, Nevada to get a correct frame.

This subject has been addressed before. Dan did a good job of clarifying things. Something some folks don't know is around 1921-2 Ford decided to drop the holes in the frame and brackets. It didn't work out, so they started doing it again. I guess only the record of changes would give the exact dates.

Have you had any luck yet finding original Anzo fasteners?

Mark: It would be nice if you had included the size of the rollers, so the customer would know what to expect!

There are two styles of this cap. Learn what they are, and don't let someone sell you a reproduction! Good luck. Both styles say Made In USA under the Ford script.

Kim Dobbins owned the car for awhile. Before he sold it, he let me drive it around the parking lot. It's amazing to drive a new Model T. The feel is not the same as a restored one.

Something that irritates me is the lack of shims to do the job. I love Plastigauge, as it give me an idea of where I'm at. However, ready made shims in .001,.002" would be nice. I've always had to make my own, and it's a pain. I like Timesaver too, but I wish I could buy 60 or 80 grit from Langs. Th...

I remember in my early years, I bought two NOS axle shafts, with the Ford script down in the keyway. When I slid the axle housings over the axles, boy did I have a surprise. They were wide track axles! I pressed off the axle gears and had them shortened to the standard length.

I've always thought the Ford Service Book is the best example around for getting things right. I built a 1925 from parts a few years back, and used that book to make sure I had everything the way Ford did it.

Great photos Tom. Keep'em coming!

The early ones are heavier than the later ones.

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