MTFCA Forum

Even the Ford dealer couldn't get the year correct!

Thanks Tom. All of your photos are great!

I built a car from parts, and there is certainly way more parts required than what you listed.

Without checking my parts book, I believe the part Mr. Vowell is referring to is called a driveshaft roller bearing distance plate, and is placed between the thrust bearing and the drive shaft sleeve.

It is true the current splash shields don't have the hose hole punched. I was able to do it for my '13 exactly like the original I have some of McMaster Carrs red hose on one of my cars, and it is ok, but I like the cloth covered stuff better. Thanks for the help on the tank to frame line hose.

Wanted To Buy: I need an early water outlet as used on the brass radiators. I would like one that is still useable. I have a late one, but don't really want to use it. Will buy a bottom tank with the outlet on it if one is available.

Pay attention to the above post! Tools changed often, so you have to know what came with your year.

I received mine yesterday. Haven't had a chance to try it yet. R.V. makes the coolest stuff! Thanks Randall.

I'd be willing to pay plenty for the correct hose! The last time Ron Gocek made a run, he wasn't paying attention, and it came out 5/8" OD. That's way to big to fit through the holes in the radiator and the splash shield. The correct size is 1/4" ID, AND 7/16" OD. Welding hose is too large.

I measured an original gaslight hose from the radiator tube to the headlight. It is 10". The one from the radiator to the frame rail pipe is 5 1/2". The one for the frame rail pipe to the tank is missing, but I think it is 28". Does anyone know the original length? I wish we could buy the correct ho...

I've never done it, but if you have an early riveted gear case, you will first have to cut the slot, then proceed.

I agree with Wayne. From the above photo, it looks to me like it was made that way.

I had difficulty with the repop switch loom for open cars years ago. They were selling the sedan looms for open cars, which are way too long for the job. My feeling is to do the research, and make stuff correctly in the first place. Some of the repop switch backs made were horrible. I know the ones ...

No one got me into the hobby. I always loved old cars. I had a 1907 Maxwell pull toy. Maybe that did it. My dad wouldn't let me have a T until he saw that high school diploma, because he knew how much I hated school. I got my first one when I was 17, and have been at it ever since.

Mike, the owner of Classtique has not put out enough information on his tops to the hobby. First, he has TWO types of top material. Colonial, and Turf. The Turf is very close to the original that Ford used, and is shiny too. The Colonial is semi shiny, and the pattern is quite different than the ori...

It's great to see some who have the balls to do what we love to do, rather than listening to everything they hear from the government!

BTW, E.B. White is a well known writer of short stories. I believe there is another book that has a collection of his works.

I bought my first copy at a used book store in the 60's for 50 cents. I've found several copies since. I love to read it over and over. It's even been reprinted, but you don't want one of them! There are no illustrations, and that is what makes the book so interesting. If you don't have a copy keep ...

Ever heard of a file?

I straightened an original Ford breather cap yesterday, and couldn't get it to fit well. Upon looking inside the hole, the casting was quite rough. Initially I used a half round file to knock down the high spots, but it wasn't satisfactory. Ultimately I used a brake cylinder hone with good results. ...

Thanks for the kind words Dan. Dan doesn't include the leather washer. As I recall, I had to find an 11/16" punch to make them, and used a 3/8" for the center. I don't see how anyone that is familiar with Dan's work would even think they would be solid on the bottom!

Like everything else, everyone has an opinion. All the companies mentioned above are ok, but one stands out. That one is Calimers. Their wheels are absolutely the best. They are a little more expensive, but well worth it.

This is for those who really care about authentic parts. The early round serrated rim nuts are now being made by Dan McEachern in Alameda. He sells them for $20 each. He went to a lot of work to make them for us.

We had a similar tour out here in California the first week in June. There were about a dozen cars, all Model T's. It was a week long tour, and we had a good time. We all had masks for when needed, but heck, we out everyday in the fresh air enjoying ourselves. No one got the corona virus, or cared m...

I started collecting original metal stems along time ago when no one was interested in them. I've converted most of my cars to the original style valves when they need it. I'm not going to pull out a tube just to put the correct one in. What irritates me is the big guys like Coker don't seem to be i...

Another interesting bit. The center body bolt is usually about 1/8" longer than the front one. I haven't had a chance to check this '14.

Why not put a wood block under the spring eye, and be done with it?

What year? Most all of that stuff was raven finished in later years. Some of it was brass plated in early years. Depends on the application.

Apparently, a few missed my post above. The car has to be a '16. There is no notch above the lid on the coilbox for the radiator support rod.

When I did my '25, I wanted the exact appearance of the original rivets, so I drove the rivets out from the bottom, and had two turned down to the original size. As I recall, I had to bend each rivet slightly to get it to go through the bottom hole.

My '13 had the DB rods when I got it. That was in 1961.

Many of you probably don't know this, but the early body bolts have a slightly crowned head, fine threads, and a cotter pin to hold everything. The bolts on these are a non standard 11/16" head and nut. The later T's have a 5/8" head and a lock washer and nut. I'm unaware of when this change occurre...

One thing is for sure. It's not a 1915!

I have a '14 that doesn't appear to have ever been apart, or even driven much. I am mostly familiar with 1913's. This car has every body bolt installed from the bottom with the castle nut on top and cotter pinned. The bolts are original. Comments? I'm guessing on this, but I just oiled the shackles ...

WTB, an early style water outlet. Would prefer the early style. Will also buy the whole bottom tank with either the early style or late style. The difference between the Ford styles, and the repop, is the repops are brass. This is for a genuine Ford radiator.

Mark:
I have a mint one with the newer style Schrader bridge washer, $25 + what ever the small box flat rate postage is. The po keeps changing it.

What is extremely interesting on this radiator, is it still has the original acetylene tubing for the headlights. If it was closer to California I would consider buying it. Great photos.

I have never liked the cocoa mats that are currently being made. I can't believe someone doesn't have an original one we can see.

As always Tom, your pictures are great! Keep them coming.

First of all, what the author is trying to talk about is a stud, not a bolt. And yes, we've all had that problem.

I can hardly wait! Everything I've had planned this year has been cancelled! It's great that finally someone is finally taking a stand. Thanks.

If I could see the spark and throttle rods, that would tell me if it is a true 15 or 16. The '15s still have the flattened spark and throttle rods, like a '14. The engine is later for sure. Hope this helps.

AC brakes used a cable, just like Rocky Mountains do. I realize the modern replacements use rods, but that is not correct. The current Rocky Mountain brakes use a pedal and equalizer from a Bennett brake which is not correct, nor is the extension on the brake pedal correct either.

I don't know why Mike would be supplying the material for the front bow in three pieces, when if done correctly, on the bias, it can be done with one piece! I have done several with no problems. It isn't easy, but is definitely doable. I have also used contact cement and a heat gun to help me with t...

But Jim, look at the fun you will have! Plus, the VFW is right there for a nice cold one!

Maybe that '25 roadster was for the meter maid?

Keep them coming. I love those old photos!

Contact Jarvis Erickson in Washington. He is the Mercury expert of the world!

Good write up Ron. I always enjoy your comments.

Randall: Let us know when you get paid! If it were me I'd drop them.

What I find interesting is the correct tire carrier, and placement of the taillight for a 1925. Note the two dimples that were to support the additional weight of the license plate assembly.

When pressing on that bearing, be sure to support the plate with another Ruckstell plate, or you will cave it in.

Find a housing that was made for the early spool. I've been lucky to have been able to find them.

I might have an original.

I noted you bought new wiring looms. If your car has the originals, be sure to save the Ford tags. I restored a '25 a few years back, and was so discusted with the repro looms, I had new ones made using the Ford tags. The switch looms came in two lengths, short and long. Yours uses the short one. Un...

This maybe a dumb question, but do you think the screen could be repaired with new wire of the same gauge?

Don't believe everything you read on this forum! Obtain the Ford Service book. Lang's should have a copy. It will show you the correct position of the oilers you need. They are not threaded either.

I believe some of the earlier cars used a rivet.

Don: Is that wire configuration obtainable, or is it something that has to be specially made?

There must be a surviving example somewhere?

Read the Ford Service book, and a little common sense should help too! Don't forget to see if the two leather pads are on top of the frame. You may have to readjust the radiator support rod too.

Here is a photo that a friend got off the AACA forum. My guess because of the logo on the gas tank, it was probably owned by a dealer.

The photo that Dan Treace posted is correct. There are two posted above that are horrible, and I would be ashamed to own a T like them. Those guys need to read up on what cutting the material on the bias really is! It is not an impossible job. However it takes some effort, and as I mentioned previou...

Dennis, it looks like you are all set for Luray!

I measured several. The shortest is 12 1/4". The longest is 13".

I didn't put the post on the thinner top material! I wrap the front bow on the bias with regular turf grain top material as I mentioned out of one piece.

The photo of the center eyelet threw me off for awhile, until I realized the stitching for the reinforcement is what was leading me astray. Those eyelets show up once in awhile at swap meets, and used tops. I use a top boot on my '25 roadster, but couldn't get myself to install the eyelet in the mid...

It doesn't matter the number on the valve stem, as long as the thread is the same! The only thing changing is the length of the stem.

The turf grain is available in a thinner grade. But why would you want to buy a whole roll of that just to get what you need for your front bow? I have done two tops from originals, and they were both the same thickness as the top material. If done properly on the bias as indicated in this post, the...

Dan: Where was that eyelet you posted used? Usually, that one would be for the back touring or roadster rear curtain for the top cover strap, but the stitching surrounding it has me confused!

Bow drill is the term for the covering for the rear bows. As mentioned above the top material you used for the top is also used for the front bow, and is indeed wrapped on the bias. I have found using a heat gun helps, and contact cement. I fold each end in about 3/8". On later cars, don't forget to...

How about the center bolt?

Russ, it's good to see you have the correct breather cap! Remember how for so long I had to fight with you to get you to see what is correct?

First of all, I would not hammer the bump flat! Ridiculous. I would put the bracket in a smooth jaw vise and squeeze the bump out. Second, by doing so you are going to expand the distance between centers, changing the hole spacing. Why not make new ones?

How about Modoc County.

Mike is a great guy. I've been helping him for years. He is always grateful. I just heard from him yesterday, and he says he has been working 70 hours a week. That must mean people like his work.

Back in the 1950's and 1960's there was a top shop in Pasadena called Ken Sorensen top shop. He was getting his material, as I remember, from a place in Tennessee or down south somewhere. That material was very close too. I've asked them before, and they can't help. The shop is still in business too...

I'm posting this on behalf of Mike Francis, the owner of Classtique. People in this hobby are unaware that their are TWO types of top material for Model T Fords. The colonial grain which is a nice substitute replacement type top material, and Turf Grain, which is as close to the original grain that ...

I'd love to go with you guys, but I'm going on a similar tour in N.E. California the following month. I think your tour would be so fun. Almost every tour I was signed for this year has been cancelled.

Are you talking about a touring? The runabouts are different.

Rivets are an interesting, and necessary subject. I've always been careful on them. Some that are sometimes overlooked are the semi tubular rivets that hold the draft deflector on the floorboards of later T's. Lang's carries those. Two that are usually the wrong type are the two semi tubular rivets ...

Bruce's book is the best reference so far. Wouldn't it be nice if a knowledgeable TT enthusiast would write a book on TT's, and do it in the same format as Bruce's book by year, with lot's of pictures and detailed photos.

If you put a valve cap on the tube, and or dust cover, how is water going to get in? I like putting the tire valve on top however.

Beautiful coils Brent. Richard will be pleased!

Scott: I would like to purchase your gears. Please hold them for me. Please contact me for shipping and payment information.

I'm glad to hear they are being made in the USA, and correctly too. The experience I've had is you have to use Crazy Glue on the ends of the band material to keep it from unraveling. I only have Kevlar in one of my T's, and have had very good luck with it. I'm still using old stock Scandanavia in th...

Interesting topic. I would use a slotted screw with a low profile so as not to interfere with the underside of the hood.

Buy Russ Furstnow's speedometer book. It tells everything you need to know.

They are out there, and by the way, a 1925 will work. Just ask Jim Rodell.

Good original ignition switches are on ebay all the time. I would prefer one of those as opposed to the reproduction junk!

The best thing you can do for that car is to make sure you have a good starter switch, and all new wiring. Of course, rebuilding the starter and generator is a good idea too. If you do all those things, your car will turn over really good with the six volt system.

Ford never made this unit. I believe Snyders made these years ago.

If anyone has a brass pinion, please post a picture. I've never seen, or even heard of one!

I guess I can only post so many photos at a time, so here is two more.

There is a discussion on an aftermarket KW Switch today. Here are some photos of an authentic original KW Box that I've had for years, and started restoring it a month ago, with Randall Andersons guidance. I've rebuilt a half dozen of them over the years, but have never refinished one. I used Minwax...

The switch plate you have pictured only had the circle with KW in it painted black.

Thanks Mark! Maybe now you can have the correct fiber thrust washer made that your dad refused to make. After all who knew more about Ruckstells, your dad or Hall Scott?

I've been running 26's for years. Same gap as an X.

They used Fordite a lot earlier than 26-7! I wax the rim often, but it still comes off on my hands. I wear gloves when driving, even in the summer.

Steve: Knowing you, you probably have the correct battery box and cover on you TT truck. How about posting a picture of it?

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