MTFCA Forum

Sure looks factory to me. I didn't know Ford was using aluminum magnet spacers that early?

Continental made engines for a number of different makes of cars. I believe a Jordan is one of them.

I wonder if that bus body is a professionally made body? It kind of looks home made to me.

A lot of American cars had free wheeling in 1932 and 33.

It would be nice if someone would reproduce the original correct Rocky Mountain Brakes that were cable operated. There are no problems with them! The same goes for the AC brakes. Why make something so simple, so difficult??????

It appears he is using a Ford battery box too. That's impressive.

I've been to every Hershey meet for 34 years, without missing one. I used to pick up NOS late hubcaps all the time for $10 each. That is getting harder to do. I've also found a lot of early hub caps there for what ever I had to pay.

Thanks for the note Bill. Phil and I were good friends, but due the distance from Los Angeles, I was lucky to see him once a year.

It's nice to see so many 1912's with the correct fore doors! Many people in my area have removed them for some reason.

Keith: Do you have a complete set now? I know that early stuff is hard to find, so I imagine you'll keep buying whatever you find.

I've seen those mis-labeled 26 curtains before. Owning a 1925, I've received 26 curtains before, and have not been able to use them. 1925 & 26 owners, take note! Thanks for posting Jim!

Keith:
Where did you find rubber stem tubes that fit through the opening in the felloe? I haven't seen anything since Schraeder made them that works!

It's too bad, and sad at that, that we have people in our society that don't feel this way!
Merry Christmas to all from a cold wet Southern California!

Another script detail is on the running boards. The Ford script on them is similar from 1913 through 1925, but entirely different styles over the years. The 1913's are similar to the hubcaps, and the 'F' got shrunk over the years. In addition, the 13-14 running boards had the holes for mounting the ...

I'll go along with Keith on that one. The RH cap that Jim posted looks like a cross over maybe? I know from all the hub caps I've collected, there were at least two different companies making them, or maybe more. I have two 1917 hubcaps. One has a black center, and one doesn't.

I don't know if anyone is making the correct side curtains for the 22-25 open cars. The original side curtains I have are almost as good as Jim's but not quite. Making these curtains was one of the most fun projects I've done. I strongly suggest making paper patterns for each of the curtains, so as ...

I'm glad the pictures of original side curtains were posted. As you can see, they are different from Carters. Also Ford did not use lift the dot fasteners.
They used Anzo fasteners, which are getting difficult to find these days.

Yup! That is the tool. Can't own a T without one. Like Steve said, I'm glad they are still available.

I've posted this information before, so here it is a different way. The first hubcap with the big "F" is a 1913. It is similar to the 1914 hubcap next to it. There is one more photo shot a different way. The 1914 hubcap was used at least through 1917, but was nickel plated. It may have even been use...

What I've been using for years is a special wire that looks like a modern speedometer cable, with a nub at one end that screws onto where the valve cap goes, and has a Tee handle at the other end. What I did this time to hold the tube in place is a rim nut screwed in upside down into the felloe. It ...

Just use the Ford Service book. You don't need drawings.

Interesting post Keith! I have Excelsiors on my '25, and didn't need to do anything!

Interesting comment Adam. Let us know if you hear of anything more on the subject.

I have an original Ford green one. It has no place for 4 dip pan gasket. Did they ever make one?

How are we supposed to know what you are talking about when you don't give the year of your car??

When I go on tours, and other Model T functions, I'm amazed at the different sizes of rear windows restorers have chosen for their curtains. Proper research always helps, and here is an example of an original 1923 rear curtain. I'm not so sure the information that Dan Treace has is correct either. I...

I like the photos that Steve Jelf posted! He's got it right with these photos. Even though Ford used 777 Schraders, I prefer the 888's which are 1/4" shorter, and still leave enough threads for the rim nut after it is mounted on the wheel.

The reason for my problem was the tire, even though new, it was old and hard. I cut a V notch in the beads today to give me room for the original metal valve stem, and that did the trick. The new tires are softer, and don't seem to care about the valve stems.

Bruce: That is a great looking coil, but I don't think it is NOS! It has later style points, and I can see scrape marks in the wood from where it has been in a coil box. Good luck on finding a buyer.

I agree with Adam. A new flap is easier to work with than a used one, however, I'll be using the old one. I use lots of talcum powder, and that seems to help.

Those hubcaps are easy to get confused on, especially the difference between a true '13 and '14. Keep in mind, Ford had different suppliers for those. The depth of the octagon can be different. I probably have more 1913 hubcaps than anyone, and there are differences among them. For anyone interested...

I've been mounting Model T clincher tires all of my adult life, and have never had a problem until this past week. There are several factors that come into play here. The tire is new, but has been sitting around for several years. I have mounted the tire twice, but have been unable to close the bead...

Go onto Royce's website. There is a very good tribute to Phil written by a close friend of Phil's that lived nearby. Model T Ford Fix.com.

Usually, the late '14 front fenders have the '15 lip. This one doesn't appear to have them. Also, Ford was installing the new Ford special speedometers in late '14.

My good friend Phil Mino passed away a few months ago. I spent a day with him just prior to the Bakersfield meet this year. He will be missed.

I've never seen a Ford hubcap with the F made that way.

I have a box exactly like Jim has, in a little better shape. The tail light lens is like the one that Mark posted, and is plastic. The difference is there is a Ford script decal across the face of the lens which is blue and white. I've always believed this tail light was manufactured for Ford after ...

The spears posted above as far as I know were only used by Ford. They can't be made from anything. If someone with a metal stamping business would be willing to make a die to stamp these, I'm sure it would be a big seller for the purists.

The new 26 style tail light was introduced in 1924.

The problem with converting a common style spear to the Ford style is the Ford style is bigger. Yes, you can alter a common one to have the tails like a Ford one, but it still will not be correct. The Ford spear is wider from top to bottom.

As many people do, you failed to mention the year of your engine. If your engine uses the stiffner plates commonly used on later T's, they require a 1/8" longer bolt. Most of your question should be common sense! All you need to do is figure it out.

Mark: When you get mine, you'll have an extra! Happy Thanksgiving!

I used friction tape, which is period correct. Read the above comment.

I don't see how a '14 lid could be slanted?

Gosh Dean, isn't one enough?

Thanks Jim for posting. I can always rely on you to post important information with no guessing allowed!!

The one on the left is correct. Just because a part has a 1912 patent date doesn't make it a 1912! Maple City, Mfg. also made oil cans for that era with a double Ford script.

I own two 1913's that had later coilboxes installed at some point. I imagine the reason for doing this is it was easier to obtain standard coils, rather than try to find originals.

You have a lot of priming and sanding to do on that top one, I've done it, and to me it's worth it for a non obtainable part. It would be nice for someone that does stamping to be able to remake that part. If there is someone out there that can do it, I have a NOS spear to loan.

What a lucky guy. You have found a real treasure!

I hope you get it fixed. I've had problems with repro wiring, and have had a local company duplicate the original Ford wiring so it fits.

The tank will not come out the top on a '13 touring. I've always put the bolts in with the nuts on top. They can't come out, because they have a cotter pin in them. The Ford service book clearly shows this. I had to lift the body off the chassis on my '13 touring to remove the gas tank. On my '13 ro...

Ed: You are right! I should have labeled it for what it is, Anzo Fasteners! I just didn't think that anyone other than purists like me would even be interested. Not all Anzo fasteners were used on T's, only some of them, therefore, most of the pictures that Dan Treace posted are not relevant.

Nothing strange about it. It's a 1909.

There are two styles of high F hubcaps. 1913, and 1914-17. The 1917's are nickel plated. The 1913 hub cap is very much like the 1914 style, but the F is much larger and bolder. It takes some practice to get used to the two styles.

Those horns are pretty plentiful. Many times they are interchanged incorrectly. A true '15 horn has a scalloped bracket. As far as I know all 13-15 horns have the same hole spacing. For detailed information contact Jim Lyons in West Virginia.

I'd be careful of the repro spark and throttle rods. I also understand the are made of brass which is not a good idea. It is not difficult to take one of those steering columns apart. Just do it carefully and don't panic. You will notice the spark and throttle rods were put in before the gear case w...

Here are the most common Anzo's used from late 1922-1925. I don't know about any other year, but do know they were used throughout Model T production. The parts that I have are all NOS, and are made of brass, raven finished. I hope these photos will do for now. I'm not very good at taking pictures.

I have a stock '25 T that has original 5-1 gears. I have several other T's that have the original 4-1 setup. I honestly don't see why changing to the 5-1 ratio is worth it.

Referring to the photos above, the only photo I recognize is the middle one. Who knows, that picture may even be my car! The female fastener in that photo is exactly the one I had to resize to work. I'll do my best to get some pictures for everyone before I put everything away today.

Those of you who know Model T's well also know that Ford used Anzo Fasteners throughout Model T production. The problem today is apparently Anzo is no longer in business. I pick up those fasteners whenever I can, and have enough for my use. When I restored my '25 pickup a few years ago, I was determ...

The ones Frank pictured would be correct for a 15 or 16. Notice the high "F".

Good find Mark! Too bad those chains won't warm up your garage!

It's easy for those running boards to be misrepresented, because they are not the same from '13-25!

Don't forget, the L arms and the straight through top saddle rods use different top saddles.

Just be sure to get the slot on top before you drill the hole.

The new location is great. Huntington Drive, and Santa Anita.

This car has obviously been repainted. Take a look at the wheels. I don't see any of the plating in those photos. I also wonder about the 30,000 miles. I don't see the speedometer gear on the wheel. A dashboard photo would be nice.

This car is a super find. I believe it to be a very late '24. Take a look at the tire carrier. It has the 1925 style taillight and bracket, and the tire carrier to go with it which was modified by Ford to accept the added weight of the taillight and license plate. I hope who ever buys this car saves...

Unless you do a lot of driving on mountain roads, I would suggest sticking with the stock ratio.

I've had good luck with Blacksmith Bolt in Portland, Oregon.

Isn't that photo taken in a garage by Matt, Phil Mino's 1910 or 11 with the dip door?

Model T rims were zinc plated.

I would like to hear from anyone with and original untouched 1923-24 touring or roadster, with the original rear curtain intact. I need the exact measurement of the rear windows (lights), and the spacing between them. I'm not interested in anything else!

I wonder if that '25 roadster is around these days? Maybe it's been restored?

No different that any other high radiator that I can see.

Doesn't look like the combustion chamber of that head would be any better than a Ricardo, or Giant Power.

That is not a very good looking shaft. What is wrong with the one that came out of it?

The tailgate is definitely a T tailgate. This style was also used on the first 1928 A pickups too. They found the hinge was weak, and they are, so they modified that hinge for the A's, but they will still fit a T. You mentioned in a phone call that there is a slight convex problem with that tailgate...

How could anyone make a tube to fit a 23" and a 24" rime at the same time. Not a good idea in my book. That maybe your problem.

I used to run a water pump for years, and found out about 10 years ago a T doesn't need one, so it now hangs on the wall. There are a lot of different belts that may work offered by Langs, and others. But if you choose to continue, you my wish to try a different size pulley on your pump. That may or...

Is Ford the only company that used painted upholstery buttons?

You are fortunate to have such an original car. To me cars like yours are a gold mine of facts. Keep up the good work. Be sure to save the original upholstery for further reference.

I don't call making parts that dig into your axles rude! I call it dumb! I have a number of original script leather seals like Tim posted. As I recall, they started using them in 1925, but I can be off on that.

I don't think there is any pressure off a carbide generator.

So why after all of you post's did you use hog rings? I don't get it!

I wonder if Schrader made those for Ford? I've seen them with Ford script. You could make an adapter out of an old spark plug.

I ran out awhile back, and I had to go to three different auto parts stores to find it!

I have no idea when Ford started stamping the script in those crossmembers, but most of that practice began in the late teens, where the script started appearing on everything.

I have a bunch of Ford script leather washers somewhere, and the retainers to go with them. The problem with the reproduction retainers that were made a few years back, is the idiots that made them had too much tension on the lugs. When I used them on my '25, I bent each one of them up so they could...

Here is an area many people forget to oil. When needed, oil the clevis pins for the brake rods, and controller shaft, and what about the cam for the clutch? What about the Timer swivel joint on early cars? Something to think about.

How about brake band rivets?

Does anyone make new springs for the oilers they used on early Fords? Does anyone do this on an exchange basis, or just individually? I have over a dozen originals with broken springs that I'd like to get working.

Another choice would be to purchase a new loom. They are not that expensive.

Richard:
I've had good luck with Langs.

Use Keith's tool. I used wide jaw Vise Grips, which does the same thing. With the vise grips, once you set the distance, you don't have to set it again. Ford the curves, I used a smaller jaw.

The best way is the way Ford intended!

Dan also makes the inserts.

I knew Chris pretty well, and saw him shortly before he passed away. He was a fun guy, and controversial too. I never cared for the fast stuff like Chris did though. Stock has always been good enough for me. If anyone has access to Saga Magazine for March 1962, Vol. 23, No. 6, page 32, there is a ph...

Mike and I are working on this together. Two years ago, I did quite a bit of research on the subject. Some of those old prints are difficult to read. Once again, the reason for this post is, the next time you go on a tour, you'll see what I mean especially the 22-24 rear windows.

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