MTFCA Forum

Russ Furstnow has a nice collection of Coupelets.

Something that would benefit all of us is to use proper terminology!

This morning I went to my pile of hub cap wrench's and found one I'm not familiar with. I assume it's from the mid to late teens. It has an M with a diamond around it, and below that is a P with a circle around it. I'm guessing the P maybe Pruden, but have no idea about the M?

If Jack Sunderlin had photos of every original part, we wouldn't have the disaster we have today!

Have you checked the alignment?

Some people only know half the story! Sunderlins first attempt at making R.M. brakes was pretty good. Where he messed up was he didn't know what the rest of the setup looked like, and unfortunately chose a Bennett equalizer! That was a huge mistake, and to this day Buds Rocky Mountain brakes are 100...

Let's hope this will be the case!

I have a Hartford tube that I haven't had a chance to use yet. So far, I've had no chance to use it. The one thing I don't understand is why it is made in China? Doesn't the U.S.A. still have the capabilities to make a good quality tube?

There is no excuse for doing things incorrectly. I'm not a camera type, and don't wish to try and do so. However, I encourage anyone who is to come over and start taking pictures. I bought my first set of R.M. brakes from Chris Eggsgard when I was a teenager, and have managed to find enough parts to...

Blockley did the right thing by making their tubes thicker. That's all. They refuse to remake the correct valve stems for these tubes, and can't even put a real rubber stem on them. The valve stems they are using are current valves that are the correct size for larger cars like a Cadillac. Not only ...

What is surprising to me is the sudden interest in REAL Rocky Mountain Brakes. I know the whole story on the repros from the start, so it's up to the owner to decide which way to go. In the early '60's the Rocky Mountain Brakes started to be made correctly, but the guy that had them made had no mech...

A high shell is a high shell period.

I made a mistake on the brake springs. The barrel springs are $10 each, and the conical springs are $15. You don't even want to know how much it cost me to have these made!

The second photo down, is the finest photo of a almost new 13 runabout I've seen.

There are several photos of original parts pictured. You are almost there. If you decide to visit, you can take your own pictures!

Yes, this one does. I have no idea how many.

My gas tank I believe is original to my 1913 Runabout. The plating is original, and the inside is as clean as the day it mas made. What I noticed yesterday, is there is a nub on the bottom I haven't noticed before. It appears to look like the head on a 6# nail, and only sticks down about 1/32". It i...

For the benefit of those who have original Rocky Mountain brakes, I had all the springs reproduced, and are for sale @ $5.00 each.

I use a jamb nut on that rod. That way it can't loosen up.

It is possible a former owner put them in incorrectly. Check the Ford Service Book.

Why not come over! I have every part, and none of it is for sale. The threads on the hinge bolt are fine thread.

I don't understand why Tip Top makes the brush a larger size? Any ideas?

I have mine off now, and the tank is going to the local radiator shop to get the flange re-soldered. I've been told the lead gasket for the sediment bulb is inferior, but I disagree. Ford made 14 million cars with the early style sediment bulb. I'll stick with the Ford method! BTW, Snyder's still ca...

When Eaton took over the production of Rocky Mountain products, they made a number of changes, some good, some not so good.

My 1913 runabout has a small coil size 12 volt battery in the tool compartment in back of the gas tank.

Good tries, but I agree with Steve Jelf. It appears to be a cemetary or maybe a college? If you look closely there appears to be two buildings in the background.

I seem to remember on some earlier articles of yours that Ford eventually made all the coils tractor units?

Thanks Steve for telling the truth! The fact is Sunderlin had no mechanical knowledge that I'm aware of. He wrongly assumed all the equalizers did the same thing. How wrong he was. I'm surprised Bud Williams didn't correct the matter when he took over the business. Real Rocky Mountains never used ro...

It all depends on how authentic you want to be. A real Murphy fastener usually has an M with a circle around it.

A friend who grew up in Dearborn thinks it's Greenfield village. Another former employee of Ford, can't identify that wall.

It certainly is!

Where was this photo taken?

I prefer to use a battery box, as original. The repro I tried once wasn''t made correctly, so i had some bottoms made exactly like the original. BTW, I have a NOS original that I used for a pattern. I use a modern group 1 6 volt battery with the correct cables, and a NOS ground strap. Because the ba...

Those hinge pin swing bolts are very close, but need to be modified to be correct.

I prefer buying from Lang's, but they don't carry the lead sediment bulb gaskets any more, so I had to get one from Snyders.

Ford did offer top boot's as an option in 26 & 27. Do you wish to have one that is exactly as Ford made them, or just an ordinary boot? I have never seen an original 26-7 boot, but they are different than the earlier styles in that they cover the sockets. I have made several boots, but they are all ...

Russ Furstnow is the only Model T person alive that has been president of both clubs.

The originals were not cast. They were steel. A factory inside drum was riveted to the drum.

I bought a NOS oval tank at Chickasha. I put it on my car and used it quite a while until the flange developed a leak, and I had to take it to a radiator shop to get repaired. In the meantime I put on a nice used tank, which is still on the car. I didn't feel like going through all that trouble agai...

A bushing driver works nice. You may need to ream the bushing to fit the shackle. I would suggest brass, not a steel bushing.

Do you want it correct? You need the original elbow from the bulb, and need to fashion an upside down question mark gas line to the carburetor.

It depends how authentic you want to be. I appears the flange for the gas tank has been removed. Maybe you should find a good used gas tank, or buy a new one. Don't assume a used sediment bulb will be useable right off either. Most of them have a hole punched through the screen. When I did my '25 It...

I belonged to that club for over 60 years. Had some great times and tours, and wonderful people. But, we are getting old, and many are not with us any more. I'm 82 now, and still playing with my three Model T's. We had our final meeting about a year and a half ago. For those of us that are still ali...

Great job. It's too bad the current blades were not done correctly! They are so close.

Is the company casting your new ones in California?

15 and 16 boots are not the same, although they will interchange.

I miss Chris Eggsgard. He was an icon in that club, along with our founder Bruce McCalley

Sorry to hear that. However, Model T's don't require Motometers!

The same thing happened to the Southern California Model T Club a couple of years ago.

Sunderlin is correct.

Something that is important is the bridge washers. The repros are not correct.

You might consider using the correct Ford elbow from the sediment bulb too. It would look much better.

I prefer to deal with Lang's, because it is a family owned business, and I personally know each member of the family.

There is one for that taillight, that is designed for the pickups.

I hope they don't do it.

This is total trivia, but I find it interesting. I have several NOS Sediment bulb inlets for the 1912 and later bulbs. The factory number on the sediment bulb is 2088, but the inlet is not listed. I find that interesting in that most of the inlets I've seen are either plugged, or have a hole punched...

Thanks Steve. I really feel uneasy about removing that valve stem. It seems like it is plastic! I guess I'll just have to do it, and if it doesn't work out, I'm out the cost of the tube.

The example of the copper plated wide brush holder isn't copper plated at all! It is solid copper and was probably made by the former owner. I have yet to see an original New Day brush that used the wide style as used today.

Please note the brush holder is copper plated, and the actual brush is smaller than the Tip Tops.

I'm not good at pictures, but this is the best I can do for now. If needed, I can try again.

Can anyone tell me if they have successfully cut off a Hartford valve stem, and replaced it with an original Schrader?

Steve: I've tried several times to contact you. You don't answer. One thing that is being omitted here is the Schrader 888. I have been cutting off rubber valve stems for over 20 years. I like the 888 over the 777 because it does the same thing, and probably reduces the weight slightly. It sticks ou...

Where are you people coming from?

I just measured the distance across the face of a NOS New Day timer brush, and it is 7/16". I don't have a newer one to compare it to.

A 26-7 wide drum can be turned down to the early style by a competent machinist. Just be sure to get the lip done at the same time. The added benefit is the brake shoes.

Looks very authentic to me.

How come no one has posted a picture of an original New Day timer brush?

Has anyone experienced removing a valve stem from a current Hartford tube. I've been doing it for years on regular rubber stem tubes, but these valve stems look like plastic. Am I correct or ?

WTB, a late 25 open car dash board in good shape.

I like that kind of stuff Dan! Thanks for posting.

Don't do it! There are plenty of 26 blocks out there. I have a complete 26 unrestored engine I'm willing to sell for $500, but would have to be rebuilt.

This past week we attended the 17th annual Ryan Ramble in Greyeagle, California. 38 cars attended. This was my 7th time to attend. It is a great get together. We travel around 100 miles per day. I racked up 300 miles total, and never lifted the hood! The meet is put on by the Ryan family, and is a p...

This past week we attended the 17th annual Ryan Ramble in Greyeagle, California. 38 cars attended. This was my 7th time to attend. It is a great get together. We travel around 100 miles per day. I racked up 300 miles total, and never lifted the hood! The meet is put on by the Ryan family, and is a p...

Do your homework, and decide what you really want. Go to some get togethers and mingle with some owners, and perhaps snag a ride. Don't rush into it! Take your time.

The valve stems Ford used are not currently available. The ones being used now were originally used on much larger cars than Fords, and even though they will work, I don't like them! The Model A hobby was successful in making correct valve stems for their cars, why can't we all take up a collection,...

To my knowledge, Ford didn't use flaps.

I have thousands of miles with nothing but New Day timers. One point that has been overlooked is the brush. The original brushes are about 1/32" smaller across the top of the brush than the newer ones I've seen. I have a NOS brush in my hand now. I don't know if New Day ever made the wider style.

The ratchet in your photo is definitely the early style. Clean it up, and reuse it.

I'm looking at a new Hartford tube now. I wonder what the valve stem is made of? I hope it's not plastic!

Something that hasn't been mentioned is the ratchet. I don't know when the size was increased, but it did happen. Perhaps when they came out with the new crankcase? The newer style ratchet will work in the early pans however.

I have a set of Excelsior tires I bought over a dozen years ago. They now have over 11,000 miles on them, and show now appreciable wear. I also have the USA made tubes in them with rubber valve stems which have held up equally well. I understand quality USA tubes are no longer available which is dis...

I don't believe Ford would have made these pickup boxes without the battery access plate since it was a $25 option anyway.

Where is the battery access cover?

Had a chance to check the triple gear pins?

The early oil cans are quite different from the later oil cans, and have the Ford script in two places.

I attended this morning. It was great seeing so many old friends

I wish it was like the old days when you could actually find some good parts!

What is a claw?
Never drive out the old bushing unless the front of the pan is held in it's proper location. and use plenty of WD-40.

They aren't real common. I have a few of them.

I believe the splash shields on all body styles were the same in 1913.

In this hobby, I got the name Original Smith because of that. I was in my early 20's and was always looking for NOS parts with the Ford script. There was a junk yard in Gardena, that had bins of parts that came from an old store in Los Angeles called HENRY'S and LIZZIES. That is where I used to find...

Do they have the Jno Brown logo?

There is a fellow in Auburn California that has been making top sockets for over 50 years. I have never heard of a complaint!

Get Ron Patterson to rebuild them. They will last forever.

There is your problem! You have repro sockets.

Kim Dobbins recently donated an unrestored 1910 Touring to the Piquette plant.

I finally got the limiting rivet for the cushion spring where it should be. I had to smack it hard several times to get it right. The rivet looks like a very small semi-tubular rivet. Keep in mind this is a reproduction early KW vibrator bridge, not an original.

If you have non demountable wheels, there isn't much you can do.

The points I have on my 1913 coils are the new reproduction type KW points. Randall Anderson put these on for me several years ago. All are fine except one. There is a limiting rivet on the vibrator bridge that limits the clearance on the cushion spring. This clearance on several NOS late style poin...

As I recall, the units are not interchangeable.

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