MTFCA Forum

Why not use an authentic cable, and machine ends for it like they did originally?

Those caps where the threads start to climb up the ears are the real thing. I wonder when in 1912, Ford adopted this style of cap from the cast ones?

I've got every tool made for entering the U joint, and I still like the Ford one the best.

Now that is a picture! Side curtains have always interested me, especially if they are made correctly.

This has been on here before. You probably have a fiber timing gear. Cut a notch in the brush so it will clear the retaining nut for the timing gear, so the brush will seat on the cam.

Thanks Dan for the post. You are far better at taking photos than I! Your stick on top of all the caps proves there was a change, and that is the point I'm trying to make. Now, I wonder if we are going to have to wait for the next edition for the guidelines to see this happen. or are they going to f...

The right one looks like a limiting stop for a non Ford spindle.

To me, the best part of this photo is seeing what the back side curtain looks like.

Where's the metal cap that goes in back of the felt?

Let's not forget, there are plenty of high fin nickel plated radiator caps out there with no rolled over edge.

This is the early two piece bridge washer. Next to it is the second style, where the round part was swaged to the main part. The second style is pictured to the left for clarification. I did my first installation about 15 years ago, and has been on the car ever since with a 777 valve stem. When it g...

I don't see the answer I'm looking for! Are we going to continue to see misinformation in the next guidelines? I think it is important to have the correct information out there for everyone to see.

I've seen plain Hall lamps too, with no inscription.

Both of my '13s have Rand's windshields. They have a stud that goes through to the end with a cotter pin hole for a castle nut, which enables the owner to adjust the tension on the spring. The nuts are brass plated steel. I like to use a brass cotter pin for these.

Maybe that is why Ford made the early spools out of brass!

Is this a 1913 built in 1912?

I agree that Elizabeth would probably be your best bet. However, I have done two tops, both roadsters, with no help. I use original, usually factory photos to guide me, along with old photographs of cars when they were still being used. I believe your car is the first year for hidem welt, at least t...

I have a very early Clum switch with the round head key. It has a lower number than the usual Ford keys. Here is a photo of a members early 1919 with the type switch I have. The dash boards were wood and covered with top? material.

Here is a part that wasn't changed in '26-7, the steering wheel and nut!
I'm surprised the chief judge for the MTFCI hasn't commented on my post! Maybe he doesn't have a computer?

If you haven't seen Ron's rebuilt starter's and generators, you missed a treat. They are worth the money many times over. There is definitely no need for a 12 volt battery if you use one of Ron's units!

Mark: I should have gotten you to take the pictures of the radiator caps I posted. You would have done much better!

Here are some pictures of some of my radiator caps. I'm not good at taking photos as many of our members are. Please forgive me. The point I'm trying to make here is all Model T radiator caps are not the same as the judging guideline say!

I will try to take some photos of original caps that I have for all to see. For the time being, refer to Royce Petersons website, and click on 1925 models. It shows a brand new 1925 coming down the line with a high fin stamped nickel plated radiator cap. As noted above, some of these caps have the b...

Nice to see your photos of your original unrestored 1913 KW coil box. I've had a couple like yours. They are very good units. I have them on both of my 1913's, a runabout and a touring. Always a good idea to have a couple of spares under the seat too, just in case.

You should be able to purchase the whole car for that price!

Bob: Do you have any brass ones?

They have two springs. One for the right, and another for the left. Haven't had a problem with one falling off.

Check with Ben Martin. He knows all about the keys.

He is even drinking my brand of beer!

I decided to do some research in the latest edition of the guidelines. The radiator cap for 1913 correctly states it is the new low fin stamped design, possibly even late 1912. With the exception of nickel plating in 1917, it remains the same through 1927! I don't believe this to be true! Is it impl...

Looks like it is on the east coast somewhere?

I've always used gloss black Rustoleum on all my cars. I spray it on. In fact, it's the first thing I do before I start assembling the car. Be sure to weld up any non original holes in the frame before painting.

You bought an original pickup box. Ford, or non Ford? The Ford boxes require drilling two holes on the sides of the sills, and if your paint is real nice the sill covers are likely to get scratched up. It sounds easy, but it isn't. I had four guys help me install mine.

The horn is the same as the earlier models. The difference is the bracket.

I would have put more stuffing into the top pads! I don't think they sagged like that originally.

Since cup grease is impossible to find these days, I use front wheel bearing grease. I can't imagine anyone putting those bearings in dry!

I've been to Lang's several times. I always deal with Don, but Steve is always around to help too. I won't buy from anyone else.

I have a bunch of original meters. Most all of them are Sterling. There are two styles. The most common one has SBC embossed between the two terminals, and the other has a deeper case that says Sterling.

My feeling is that Ford stopped painting the 1913's blue by January,1913. I have two 13's, and neither one of them were blue. However, my earliest car did have blue wheels that were striped.

What is the tube you are referring to? Is it the torque tube? If is, it's the same procedure as a standard rear end. The early bearing spools have a lip, and the later ones don't.

I was on a tour recently at an old lumber mill, and they had a Dorris truck! Don't recall the year of it.

I've got one somewhere that starts with an 'N'. Nader or something like that. Leave it to Jim to come up with a display as above. Neat!

You have it backwards!

I have selected a wheel with lots of paint on it that is tight and sound. I tried a hub in it and it a good fit. The scraping starts today!

An interesting side line to this post, is the current 100 year old plates that are available from the HCCA. I wonder why anyone would want to screw one of these to their firewall, especially if the year of the car is known! To me it is simple math without the holes in your firewall.

I recently had an accident which destroyed my left front wheel on my '13 touring. I have four excellent replacements for this car, all extremely tight and ready for restoration. I realize a brand new one would probably be a better choice, but all the wheels on this are originals, and have been getti...

Sure glad to hear the meet is on! I would hate to have to cancel my airline and car reservations! See you there!

Keith: As you can see from your own pictures, your speedometer is missing the shaft. I would take the two best examples you have and ship them to Russ for repair. If you need to see a nice looking example, there is one on ebay for $400 that has been on it for weeks.

Check with Bob Bergstadt. He runs across that kind of thing some times.

What year used the round one? Never seen those. I always thought the ones on the left were the early ones. Thanks for posting.

Keith, that is why they have always punched holes in leather straps!

Please recall that after Victor stopped producing reliable headgaskets, the problem wasn't the copper, it was the core. Steve Coniff did research on this subject, and found the black core they use for modern headgaskets needed to be used.

Getting them from Jon is the best idea. If not, find originals to copy, and be sure to rabbet the front and back sides. They were never varnished.

If you decide to use a bolt, be sure to turn the head down to the same diameter as the rivet.

Looks like the first series pickup box. However, the rest of the car appears later?

Chaffin's wouldn't be the same without Dave!

If you'll look at your picture above, the bottom of that brush is not the same as an original. Again, check the pin slot and see if it's in the same place.

A nail would probably work for awhile, but have you tried drill rod, or better yet Langs?

Mark: The picture you posted of the brush is not the same as a NOS. Sorry. The brushes on originals had a slightly different size, and God knows where they put the slot for the brush these days. I've been using originals for years, so I have no problems. I recently had some bushes duplicated out of ...

I wonder if Mr. Merz has a starter on this car? Perhaps he just hand cranks it to entertain non T people? I do see an amp gauge on the dashboard. I also see a lack of the correct tail light and license plate bracket on this car. I've seen two recently on ebay or our classifieds.

When I was younger, many people in my local club liked to put Frontenac heads on their cars. They found Nash rocker arms to be a good replacement. I wonder if this company has those?

Hand crank T's like to start way better on 12v than 6v.

I doubt if that 1912 has drawers like the old Divco Helms trucks. To me, it's a shame whoever restored that truck put brass step plates on the beautiful running boards. Some people like them, and some people don't. I recently restored a 1913 roadster which had holes drilled for a tool box. It was a ...

I use a 12 volt Duracell in both of my '13s. The touring has one under the back seat, and the roadster has on in the tool box in back of the gas tank. They are the size of a Model T coil, and are rechargeable.

Looks like one Don Marr made back in the early '60s.

I would definitely turn #4 around. Blue it in and check with plastigage.

I don't know what year Ford went to the wide seal, but the earlier T's use a narrow seal. I'm fortunate to have a supply of both. I don't understand two of the pictures above. They don't look like any T I've ever seen.

Some hand brake levers were bent to the left from the factory. I can't see bending it at the top, as it doesn't get in the way.

If you still have problems, try a Ford script U-Joint. I've never had that problem.

Looks like an early one.

Check Chickasha. There will be lots of them there.

As far as I know, no kind of linings work when wet. Just be careful, and drive with care.

I have Ron's rebuilt Ford Script coils in my 1925. I've driven this car over 6,500 miles since I restored it. I have never had the lid off the coilbox. Go figure!

I think there is enough of a chamfer on the cams to allow for an O ring?

The p/u fender irons are indeed tapered. I loaned an original to Gator Gould many years ago, and I think he reproduced them. I've owned two original '25 pickups, and they both have the tapered irons.

The four carriage bolts in my '13 roadster are not original. They needed replacing. However, the length is correct and size too. All the wood in this car, including the turtle deck is original to the car.

I wouldn't expect anything less from R.V.

Pay attention to what Steve Jelf said. Mark Chaffin has a pile of them for sale now on the classifieds, and they are on ebay all the time.

The original straps for pre 1915 are leather. I've you wish, I can measure one of my originals. I think they are 5/8".

The TT trucks are a heavier cross member.

Since we're on the subject, there are two styles of 9 leaf spring clips, yes, that is what Ford calls them! Early and late. They had to modify the clips when the new style 26-7 rear cross member came out. The early one won't work on the late rear cross member. I assume the eight leaf would have been...

Reading the Ford Service book gives no clue what so ever! That is why I posted this. I've re read the service book many times, and it doesn't say a thing about the spring being on the clutch shaft before lowering the hogs head onto the crankcase! I would like to hear from someone who has done this, ...

My '13 is held on by four long 1/4" carriage bolts.

There is NO turnbuckle. The adjustment is made by the position of the gear shift. If you are lucky, perhaps you may find one at Chickasha.

My question still hasn't been completely answered! I have the bands in the engine, and the aluminum hogs head is off the car at the moment. Assuming I put the hogshead back on, what is the sequence of putting the clutch shaft band spring in? Should I have it on the clutch shaft when I lower the hogs...

I've been working on T's all of my adult life, over 60 years to be exact, and have never run across a T with the early style clutch pedal shaft! According to the 1927 parts book, this style was used up through 1925. Every T I've ever owned has had the late style. It seems most of them must have been...

Does your bulb have offset pins or straight across as original. The reason I'm asking is I'm using an original 25-27 taillight, with a replacement style socket which is designed for straight across pins. I had to buy a special double filament bulb from Snyders, and file the offset pin off to work. I...

First of all, you have to have the bendix out of the car!

I just bought one from Langs for my '13 touring.

I have two. $25 each plus postage. Originals.

I once knew a guy with a '26 roadster with that exact setup.

Sorry, I didn't read your request carefully. Yes, the eight leaf U bolts are the same, however the nine leafs are longer.

Mark Chaffin has a pile of originals on the forum. I think it's a good buy. They are mostly the late style which you need.

Try the classifieds!

Sorry Mark I miss typed. $26.50

Mark: I'll send you a check for 23.50. Do you want me to send it to your dads address or somewhere else. Please send your nicest pair.

Mark: Your price started at $18, and then went to $20, and is now back to $18! Do you still have a pair?

I believe the center eyelet is the same dimension as the common sense eyelet I think. The only difference is there is not notches. Maybe Mike at Classtique know where to get them.

The low eight leaf spring came out in mid 1925, and has nothing to do the front crossmember. It dropped the height of the front of the car one inch, and at the same time added one leaf.

The wood blocks that go under the shelves have to be the same thickness as the lip around the shelves. Also, the reproduction boys have a tendency to get the angles for the hood latches wrong. The car in the service book is a 1924, not a '25. Finally, the four bolts you will need are indeed carriage...

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