MTFCA Forum

I wore a flannel shirt in the mornings when it was still a bit cold, but was wearing a T shirt in the afternoons. Great tour and even better roads.

Thanks guys! Actually, my birthday is the 30th. I've still got 5 days to go. It's still great to be able to wake up in the morning with no aches or pains, although it's getting difficult to get off my creeper!

With the exception of the lettered pedals, why would a '15 be different than a '14?

I apologize for my post above. I didn't intend to offend anyone! I just couldn't resist!

Steve: I'm wondering if Ron Patterson would be of help on that question?

It's amazing the people that post on here that don't know what they are talking about!

Why take an original Ford part an modify it to accommodate a part that was made incorrectly in the first place?

The owner of the Miracle Springs Resort took a liking to our members, and rolled out the red carpet. He even took us to his newly acquired home nearby that used to belong to Mary Pickford, which is shown above. He even offered us a very reduced rate at his hotel if we cared to return after we left. ...

What Dan and Nick posted is correct. I figured this one out over 50 years ago!

It already is a problem!

Get a Dykes book and read it!

It was a fun 3 days. It appears we went 275 miles. I've never used my Ruckstell so much. BTW, that's me at the keyboard. No problems for me or my car. I didn't think highly of the National Park, but I don't care for the desert.

I haven't checked out getting the glass channel nickel plated, but they did it originally, probably in long strips before it was bent.

BTW, I believe the correct name is Pratt and Lambert.

Check with Jarvis Erickson. He knows more about Mercury's than anyone.

None of the tubes that have newly made, non correct brass valves have the valve stems used by Ford. To make my point, even with original dust covers you must start screwing down the dust cover at the top of the valve, and screw it all the way down. With the originals you don't have to do that. Too b...

I probably have more original rim nuts than anyone, and not one of them says Schrader. Mine all fit 777 and 888 valves. Gary, do yours fit those valves?

Interesting subject. Since we aren't dealing with pressure, I'd say we are pretty safe! I'm lucky, I have a couple of NOS gas lines, and have an original on my 1925 that works fine. As I have mentioned many times, I have a 1913 that I've owned for over 60 years. I started restoring it as a teenager,...

Gary: The rim nuts you have are not for a Model T! The ones Dan McEachern posted are correct. Dan spent a lot time and effort to make these exactly like the originals.

I have originals on all of my cars, but studying the changes from 1913 on is an interesting topic. I don't know when they started putting the manufactures symbol on the bottom, but I guess it would be in the early 1920's. I've been extremely lucky in being able to find NOS hubcaps at Hershey over th...

It appears that Dan Treace, as usual, has posted the correct information from the original Ford glass booklet. The fact that this car is a pickup has nothing to do with the windshield which is a standard runabout. What I've found out about glass recently, is the thickness is different than what was ...

I recently restored a 1913 KW coilbox, and used the Cherry Bark stain. It is beautiful, BUT, I think the Laurel Mountain Forge stain is closer to the original, and it is still available.

Check with Ron Patterson on exactly what to use, and go from there. No problem.

I really enjoy Tom's photos, especially noting the correct placement of the rear curtain windows. Thanks Tom!

Brent: Don't even consider a harness that doesn't have the Ford tag! It won't be correct. Check with Don Lang. I bought my originals from him many years ago. I had to go through a pile of used harnesses to find what I needed.

1915 Ford. This is the last year Ford used the side flap on the top boot. It was eliminated in 1916. Good detail.

Scott is mentioning something that I've known for years, and yet the vendors have done nothing about it! I bought a viton tipped needle and seat from Langs recently thinking it would be one of Scotts. It isn't! The original seats were .125", and the replacements are .100". I hope I got this right! I...

Larry Reed is a pretty decent guy, but I doubt if his tool roll was very correct for the price he was asking!

I saw a mint looking original blue service book on ebay yesterday for $89. I would gladly pay that amount if I needed one.

My car is much darker than in that photo.

I put a flap on my '13, but unlike most everyone I put it on the top of the front bow, with the flap hanging down over the top of the windshield like a late T does.

Perhaps you can see from this post why I don't like reproductions! They almost always don't reproduce stuff correctly. I supplied Dan with the original parts for him to copy. He was so kind to do this. I think if he would advertise them, he would sell more. Keep in mind there are two lengths of dust...

Be careful what you get. As I recall, what they call 3/4", is really not true! It is 23/32" That makes for a loose fit for the brass trim.

Don't use a plywood kit. Lang's offers a solid wood kit which is better than original, but the best kit is Fun Projects plastic kit.

Yes, my car was painted rather ugly colors in the past. Had I not have had a gallon of dark blue to paint the car with, I would have painted it black! While restoring the car, I found no evidence that the car was ever blue, only black.

For years the Horseless Carriage Club of Southern California has had the Holiday Motor Excursion. You probably have guessed we couldn't have it for the first time in 60 years, because of the virus. So, some of our members decided to do the Rose Parade route down Colorado Blvd. on New Years morning a...

I hear you on your reluctance to learn this new stuff, but I'm kind of the same way. I've learned the basics, and that is about it. Now I'm having problems with my new iPhone, which is worse! Welcome to the club. BTW, I'll be 78 this month.

Not a whole lot of information on these. Here is what I have observed. It is possible several different manufactures could have been making these for Ford at the same time. The most obvious thing is the size of the Ford script, which from my observations remained the same through 1916 and possibly 1...

Keep it up Tom. You are a treasure!

I'd check with RV. He does it all the time.

I'm new to using gas headlights. Because of dedicated members, I was able to duplicate all of the gas lines for my car to original style. I was able to find a brass Tee for the radiator, and for the first time in my life learned how to do a double flare! My only wish now is for Ron Gocek to get busy...

That is the early design. I like that style, because it gets the lever away from my right leg.

The big difference is the location of the right lower mounting hole.

Since your dash is rusty, it's hard to tell, but there are two styles of open car dashes used in 1925, early and late.

Tiger Timers were the cheapest design of the Ford style timer.

If you have someone available who knows how to straighten housings, go for it. Most all of them are bent to some degree.

I could be wrong, but if you have a '23-5, the difference is taken care of in the switch and wire loom. Also, your coilbox will have no holes in the front for the earlier style switch.

My check, mentioned above went out yesterday.

Looks like a 1914, not a 1913!

Fantastic Tom! Keep 'em coming!

I have crows in the trees in my back yard. They are a pain!

As I mentioned above, don't skimp! Most original tops have common sense fasteners secured inside the material that is placed before being sewn together. Are you willing to forget about that possibility to get an incorrect top for your car? Also your question about a 1925 top being the same as a 1926...

Don't skimp on a top. Get in touch with Mike Francis at Classtique. He makes the best kits around. Be sure to specify the Turf Grain pattern, which is very close to the original. Don't fall for the Colonial grain which is a little cheaper. After retiring I took an automotive upholstery course. It's ...

Scot:
I have tried contacting you several times with no success! I will try to find your address in the roster, and send you a check.

I started collecting bulletins over 45 years ago. They were a little easier to find then. Issue # 1 is a yellow/orange format. All the issues after that had a blue border until 1921 or 22. After that, they were black only. Sometime in 1927 they changed to the Model A format. I think it was a good th...

I wonder how they kept the seat cushions from falling out?

Ed: I'll get a check out to you today. My address will be on the check and the envelope. Larry

Timer Gauges: Of course a ruler is an easy way to set the timing in the retarded position, but the timer gauge made by Snyder to do the setting is ONLY made for the late T's with a 5/8 bolt head. What about a gauge for a 9/16 bolt head? Does anyone have any data on when the bolt heads were changed f...

The photos above show the incorrect lever on the spark rod from the steering column. Where is the swivel, and the correct commutator rod?

When the MTFCI reprinted these bulletins, they didn't go far enough! First, they didn't punch the three holes in the proper location. Second, they didn't use the glossy paper Ford used which is still being used, and lastly they didn't use the colors Ford used. The positive side is the information is...

Ed, I will buy them. Let me know.
Larry Smith

I have the old fashioned shut off valves that Lang's sells on all of my cars, and have never had one stick.

I've had several of those. I don't like them, so they just sit on the back shelf. Here are some examples of 1913 hub caps I have. If you are wondering about the natural wheels, wonder no more! The car has been restored.

I've always run NH carbs on all of my T's. I have two '13s that both start the same. I have the throttle lever about 1/3 down, and the spark fully advanced. With the gas on, I prime the engine three quarter turns. I then turn on the switch to battery, and retard the spark. Usually, the car will star...

Here is the genuine Ford stoplight switch I used.

Here are the photos of the parts I used to convert my stock 1925 taillight to a stop light. As I mentioned I can't see any difference between the original, and the one I used, except for the straight through socket. The one in the picture is not the one on the car, but is a spare that I have.

I took some pictures yesterday of the components I used for this project. Will try to post them soon, but I'm painting fenders today.

I have two 13's, and both had had the front springs replaced. I wonder if that happened often? I remember it took me over a year to find a good replacement for my roadster, but I finally did. 1913's had two styles of springs, front and rear. Some had the curled leaves and some didn't.

Henry did provide an accessory taillight in 26-7, and that is the set up I used, except as you can see, I didn't use the taillight.

Here is a setup I used on my 1925, to convert it to a stoplight. I'm using a factory taillight and license plate bracket. The bulb is used for Model A cowl lights to convert them to turn signals. I have to file one tab off the bulb to do this. I don't know why Snyder had to put an offset tab on this...

Everyone should have a copy of the Ford Service book. It answers a lot of these kind of questions. I prefer original copies which aren't too hard to find.

The late '25s use the swivel adjustment too, but don't require the relief in the hot air pipe, but I have one on my car anyway. I agree, stay away from the repro hot air pipes, there are too many originals around.

What Dan says is correct. I have a NOS firewall to prove it.

I retired in 2003, and haven't regretted it. As above, I restored two Model T's, and keep busy doing T related things. I've been able to attend four tours this year with no problems at all.

The ones Bob is selling are made with the original dies.

How does a 3 jaw puller work on a four spoke steering wheel?

To my knowledge, Walker has never made radiators for stock T's, so there is nothing to worry about!

Try to remember, your car is only a 1925 Roadster, with a one year only pickup box bolted on. I've owned two of these pickups. Correct any problems you may have one step at a time, and in time, it will be correct.

I wish they would come up with a nicer looking tread pattern!

Layden: The check went out yesterday.

Strange indeed! It must be for a truck, but where are the holes for the cotter pins? Since it is incorrect anyway, I would replace it with the correct one.

It sure is nice to see a 1912 with doors! Most everyone in this area have removed them for some reason.

I've never seen one in that condition!

What we need to do is go back to the originals. It would take someone that would be willing to take on a project like that. The new ones work backwards from the originals, which were CABLE operated, and had a small bracket attached to the brake pedal.

I get mine from Don Lang. They are made by Covercraft.

Layden: If Benji doesn't take them, let me know.

Those are difficult to find Mark. The correct hex nuts aren't easy to find either!

WTB, some red gas light cloth covered hose that was made by Ron Gocek several years ago. This was either 7/16 or 1/2 OD, and fits through the radiator holes. I need enough to go from the carbide generator to the frame mounted gas line on a 1913.

There is new, and there is NOS. Sometimes, there is a big difference!

Steve Coniff has a Snap On socket for the camshaft nut. I've not seen another.

I'm wondering about the buckle. Aside from not being brass plated, it appears to be the same one used on the '13 rear bow straps?

I had my flag out all day. Most of the folks in my neighborhood forgot!

I've been watching your progress for years Pete. I'm glad to see it as it is now. Keep on going, I know it will be on the road in my lifetime?

I was looking at the photo you posted of the rear spring. I suggest you turn around the oiler from it's current position, or you won't be able to open it when installed. I use the factory service book for clues on that kind of stuff, to be able to get things right.

I know Blue Lake is a long ways from Los Angeles, but I'm here to help with pictures and data. I built my p/u from original parts, so I was able to become knowledgeable on just about everything. The project took seven years, and no two parts came from the same car. My pickup box was a rust free orig...

I've had problems with the current reproduction wire looms. What I did was using original factory used looms, I took them to Y and Z's wiring in Redlands, California. They did it right, and even wove in the original Ford tags just like original. Of course, it took twice and much money to do this, bu...

I didn't read my post carefully enough. The 8 1/4" measurement I gave is from the left edge of the brace to the the center of the left upper hole for the taillight bracket.

I've been on many tours with Milt. He was a great guy.

I just found some photos of that brace or L bracket. I just had my computer switched from windows 8 to windows 10, so I'm not too familiar with what's going on now. As you can see the two left holes are for the taillight bracket. You can use your taillight bracket to locate the others. The two holes...

The spacing for the taillight bracket in 8 1/4", and halfway down on the crosspiece. That cross piece probably isn't on your bed if it's been converted to a trailer. If it is, the two top holes for the taillight bracket are already in it. There are two rivets holding it on, on each side. The holes s...

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