MTFCA Forum

Yes John, getting off a creeper at 82 can be a challenge!

I can't imagine you posting spam!

I'm sure many of you can relate to this, but I have one car in particular that this is meaningful. Why?. because I built this car myself over a period of seven years. The moment is laying on a creeper and reminiscing where I bought every single nut and bolt, not just any nut and bolt, but genuine Fo...

Me too! I'd like to have one.

My very first Model T was a 1926 touring. It had demountable 30 X 3 1/2 all the way around. What was really interesting on that car, was it had every genuine Ford accessory available on it.

Why would anyone paint a steering wheel red?

Don't do it! A good 6 volt system is perfect. The problem us usually the wiring. Replace every single wire with new wire, and you will like it.

Replace every single wire on your car. You will be amazed.

I received more information from Trent. You could get your new car with any combination that was available at the time. I could be wrong, but I assume most vehicles sold without starters, and demountable wheels were TT trucks.

Someone mentioned top saddles. I believe Ford ceased putting top saddles on cars around 1922 or 23, and put hard rubber plugs in the holes. I assume by that time the majority of Ford owners didn't put their tops down much, and maybe that is why that happened, but the real reason, I believe, it enabl...

I would tape off the area for the inner bearing race before sandblasting.

I built my 25 pickup from parts,, over 7 years. I also made sure the nuts and bolts were all period correct for the car.

I assume the 1925 frames had the holes drilled for the battery carrier, so it would be easy to install one. However, two of the holes had the carrier riveted in, and the remaining hole was for the ground strap. from the factory.

The inexpensive Ford models in the 1920's were sold without demountable wheels and starter and generators. How many of these exist today? An example is on the back cover of the current Model T Times. It has 30X3 non demountable wheels in front, and 30X3 1/2 non demountable wheels in the back. If you...

On the back cover of the current Model T Times, is probably the rarest 1925 Ford in existence. I most likely was sold new as a non starter model. If you look through the L R spokes, it appears there is a battery. I have only seen one example of a 1925 non starter car in 60 years in this hobby. Note ...

You need to be more specific. What brand?

It's really good to see someone calling splash shields by the proper name!

Since when did you become interested in correct Model T's?

Front or rear?

To me, a 13-14 is a sort of a U, but flat on the top and sides. The sides have a very slight U configuration on the edges.

I noticed the drain valve on this carburetor. It appears to be the same as the ones that were available several years ago. Wouldn't it be nice if a knowledgeable person could make those again.

I have a list that Trent found for me that gives all the parts required to install a factory pickup bed on a car. I wish I could put my hands on it!

I recently sold an unrestored 1914 touring for less than I paid for it.

Wouldn't be without one. I have a well used edition in my garage.

The correct 25 pickup fender irons have been reproduced. Contact Gator Gould. He used an original from me to make them.

I don't think Ford used that style.

I'm with Steve. I have a half dozen old stock Scandanavia band linings, which should last me the rest of my life!

I just looked at an original sign I have, and it has holes for screws. This one does not. I'd say someone spent a lot of time making a fake sign.

That article on the Heinze coils is the only article that has made any sense to me in years! Keep it up!

Since when is there a Ruckstell low? You are either in Ruckstell or you are not! Now if you are in Ruckstell, and low pedal, then you are in Ruckstell low.

I have a late '25 with that setup. All genuine Ford parts. Never had a problem.

I loved that video. Yes, Ruckstell's are a great addition to a Model T. I've got them in all of my Model T's.

Why not build a real 1925 pickup? That is the year Ford built the first ones. They made a few prototypes in 1924, but they were first introduced in March of 1925. I built mine from scratch as a retirement project in 2003. It took me seven years to do the restoration using authentic genuine Ford part...

It appears the rails were replaced, and when they did that they didn't redrill the holes correctly?

October 1924 Ford Service Bulletin Page 76, shows the new rib, or oil deflector cast into the transmission cover. I recently bought an earlier version transmission cover, by mistake, relying on another persons judgement.

Are you sure it's called a housing? I thought it was a cover?

Some were in block letters too.

Some people just like to be critical! I need to know if anyone has a 1920's Schrader or Dill catalog showing their parts. I've having a tough time making sure the term rim nut is correct for the part I've been wondering about or rim washer that Lang's is using in their catalog. Any help would be app...

Hi Allan: I don't need these for my use, as I refuse to use Blockley tubes, because of the incorrect valve stem. I'm going to refer you to a friend of mine. Thankyou for trying to help!

Is there a source for rim nuts to fit Blockley tubes? I know Lang's calls these rim washers, but now can a washer have threads?

Since a speedster is not an original Ford body style, what not paint the car any color you like?

Rather than call the hub a 1912, why not call it an early front hub which was probably used through 1917? The outer part of the hub which holds the race is weaker than the later hubs, and that is why they were redesigned. I have taken later hubs, and had the thread area extended to look like an earl...

WTB: Rim nuts that will fit Blockley valve stems. Their valves are much larger than a standard Model T. Is rim nut the correct term? I have lots of the correct nuts for T's, the 777's and 888's. I know Ford didn't use the 888 but I use them because they work and reduce the weight slightly.

I'm trying to help a friend with Buffalo wheels. He bought a set of Blockley tubes for his car which are the wrong size valve stem. I'm wondering if the term Rim Nut is the correct name for the nut that holds the valve stem to the rim. On Buffalo's there is no felloe. I think the name of the nut he ...

Thanks Keith for posting those wonderful photos!

Check the parts book. There are seven different lengths of adjusting rods used. I went through that with my late 25, and had an interesting time trying to locate the correct length. Keep on trying.

Since Mr. Blockley is only offering one size valve on his tubes, that creates a problem for those with period correct wire wheels that don't have a felloe, either wood or steel. I'm not aware of a current rim nut to hold the valve in place, and still be able to screw the dust cover in place without ...

AC brakes used a cable.

My point is, if you are going to reproduce part, do it correctly!

Notice the flange for the 1915 speedometer road gear in the photos.

The difference is obvious. The one on the left is the 1913 style, while the left one is 14-17, maybe even later?

Is this a genuine Ford item? In 60 years, I've haven't seen these.

Are you able to supply the early style two screw lower point?

I'm inclined to agree with Steve Jelf. I haven't had a chance to use a Hartford tube yet. I only hope I'll be able to remove the rubber stem as I've been doing for years. I think Blockley is wrong to be using valve stems that are incorrect for our cars, but doesn't seem to give a damn, and many of o...

The current bridge washer offerings are not made correctly. They got the thickness and shape correct, but didn't do the stamping correctly. Why? There is a round stamping around the stem hole to help the bridge washer seat on the tube. Is there anyone anywhere, that is capable of doing this?

This is my 1925 pickup. I've driven it over 1000 miles recently without lifting the floorboards. It was worth it.

Shouldn't this ad been placed on the classified?

This morning I went out to adjust my low band, from above. Of course I had to remove the mat, and floorboards. It took me about 30 seconds to adjust the low band, but what happened is I wound up holding field day on everything I could see! Oh well, it needed it.

The board thickness is really 13/16", at least it is on a 1925. Take your bed off, and put in the plate correctly. You will be happy you did.

Your best bet is to find a 1926 Ruckstell housing. Maybe you maybe able to trade you small side for a 1926?

I like the thickness of the tubes. I dislike the valve stems that they use. I wish they would offer rubber stems tubes for us people who like to have the correct original valve stems. It doesn't seem important to Mr. Blockley. I also think his tires are ugly. My favorite tread design is Firestone.

I like Valvoline oils. I use 15-40, 10-40, 10-30. They all work fine here in Southern California.

What is a AGM battery?

Do what you wish. I've never had a battery cut off, and don't need one either!

Congratulations Seamus. I wish you all the luck!

Russ Furstnow has a nice collection of Coupelets.

Something that would benefit all of us is to use proper terminology!

This morning I went to my pile of hub cap wrench's and found one I'm not familiar with. I assume it's from the mid to late teens. It has an M with a diamond around it, and below that is a P with a circle around it. I'm guessing the P maybe Pruden, but have no idea about the M?

If Jack Sunderlin had photos of every original part, we wouldn't have the disaster we have today!

Have you checked the alignment?

Some people only know half the story! Sunderlins first attempt at making R.M. brakes was pretty good. Where he messed up was he didn't know what the rest of the setup looked like, and unfortunately chose a Bennett equalizer! That was a huge mistake, and to this day Buds Rocky Mountain brakes are 100...

Let's hope this will be the case!

I have a Hartford tube that I haven't had a chance to use yet. So far, I've had no chance to use it. The one thing I don't understand is why it is made in China? Doesn't the U.S.A. still have the capabilities to make a good quality tube?

There is no excuse for doing things incorrectly. I'm not a camera type, and don't wish to try and do so. However, I encourage anyone who is to come over and start taking pictures. I bought my first set of R.M. brakes from Chris Eggsgard when I was a teenager, and have managed to find enough parts to...

Blockley did the right thing by making their tubes thicker. That's all. They refuse to remake the correct valve stems for these tubes, and can't even put a real rubber stem on them. The valve stems they are using are current valves that are the correct size for larger cars like a Cadillac. Not only ...

What is surprising to me is the sudden interest in REAL Rocky Mountain Brakes. I know the whole story on the repros from the start, so it's up to the owner to decide which way to go. In the early '60's the Rocky Mountain Brakes started to be made correctly, but the guy that had them made had no mech...

A high shell is a high shell period.

I made a mistake on the brake springs. The barrel springs are $10 each, and the conical springs are $15. You don't even want to know how much it cost me to have these made!

The second photo down, is the finest photo of a almost new 13 runabout I've seen.

There are several photos of original parts pictured. You are almost there. If you decide to visit, you can take your own pictures!

Yes, this one does. I have no idea how many.

My gas tank I believe is original to my 1913 Runabout. The plating is original, and the inside is as clean as the day it mas made. What I noticed yesterday, is there is a nub on the bottom I haven't noticed before. It appears to look like the head on a 6# nail, and only sticks down about 1/32". It i...

For the benefit of those who have original Rocky Mountain brakes, I had all the springs reproduced, and are for sale @ $5.00 each.

I use a jamb nut on that rod. That way it can't loosen up.

It is possible a former owner put them in incorrectly. Check the Ford Service Book.

Why not come over! I have every part, and none of it is for sale. The threads on the hinge bolt are fine thread.

I don't understand why Tip Top makes the brush a larger size? Any ideas?

I have mine off now, and the tank is going to the local radiator shop to get the flange re-soldered. I've been told the lead gasket for the sediment bulb is inferior, but I disagree. Ford made 14 million cars with the early style sediment bulb. I'll stick with the Ford method! BTW, Snyder's still ca...

When Eaton took over the production of Rocky Mountain products, they made a number of changes, some good, some not so good.

My 1913 runabout has a small coil size 12 volt battery in the tool compartment in back of the gas tank.

Good tries, but I agree with Steve Jelf. It appears to be a cemetary or maybe a college? If you look closely there appears to be two buildings in the background.

I seem to remember on some earlier articles of yours that Ford eventually made all the coils tractor units?

Thanks Steve for telling the truth! The fact is Sunderlin had no mechanical knowledge that I'm aware of. He wrongly assumed all the equalizers did the same thing. How wrong he was. I'm surprised Bud Williams didn't correct the matter when he took over the business. Real Rocky Mountains never used ro...

It all depends on how authentic you want to be. A real Murphy fastener usually has an M with a circle around it.

A friend who grew up in Dearborn thinks it's Greenfield village. Another former employee of Ford, can't identify that wall.

It certainly is!

Where was this photo taken?

I prefer to use a battery box, as original. The repro I tried once wasn''t made correctly, so i had some bottoms made exactly like the original. BTW, I have a NOS original that I used for a pattern. I use a modern group 1 6 volt battery with the correct cables, and a NOS ground strap. Because the ba...

Those hinge pin swing bolts are very close, but need to be modified to be correct.

I prefer buying from Lang's, but they don't carry the lead sediment bulb gaskets any more, so I had to get one from Snyders.

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