MTFCA Forum

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Picked up a set of smoothie “blems” from Coker at Hershey, fine condition, mounted up just right, pliable and finish is good for my use on current replica project.

Can’t find what is blemish, perhaps the mottled gray colors poorly uniform and maybe the tire will age brown but don’t think so, they are...

Like your option Frank!!!!!!!

Steve, My latch looks like your top picture. Im going to call it 1914. but there are variations,

Thanks again ....

have fun and be safe and Merry Christmas

Not a good idea to make the dam or the standoffs any higher than about 1/4 higher than the horseshoes.

With COVID and the social distancing how does one go about making contacts and learning more about Model Ts?

I am in the NW suburbs of Chicago and thinking of buying my first model T.
Appreciate your input and thank you! Jim

There are lots of T owners in the Chicago area as was pointed out.
Socializing in large or small groups have always had...

There is an overlap in the Ra finish possible for either lathe turning and grinding. 32-16 is possible with lathe turning. Easier to find someone who can turn your drums rather than grinding.

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That's inspiring, thanks!

Now if only I could get parts for my Edsel...

As to why one thread would be worn more than others, I'd guess that many heads ran many miles on worn out engines during the Depression and WWII and beyond. Worn engines, broken rings, worn out starters, if any, and old weak batteries, if any, may have required many owners to clean one or more problem spark plugs very often, maybe even every time...

For those who may not know about it, here's the Z tool for adjusting bands. It's not tedious like the #1917 wrench that came with every car, and not terribly scarce. I see it often among the Model T tools at swap meets.

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My dad would wash the car from time to time using a bucket of water, a big sponge, and a chamois. He'd put a little kerosene in the water which gave the car a nice shine when wiped down. He'd paint the tires and rubber floormat with some kind of black goo mixed with drip gasoline. It had a strong odor, but it looked great. The process never seemed...

Thanks Steve .

Please forgive my ignorance, I’m new to Model T’s. I have a 1925 Fordor that I’m working on.......

Sounds like you found a source for both an engine and parts .

Great to hear you were successful. Many small projects on the Model T that should take 30-45 minutes end up becoming much longer….

So many details to look at. The sunvisor on the coupe, the tire tread on the center door the hasslers and center caps on the wheel below the guy bending his front fender.
Love seeing these photos. Thank you for making our day.

Careful Dallas L, you might get as bad as I looking at details in photos for hours!
Where to even begin?!
There are...

I just got off the phone with Brassworks and they will have a pair in the mail to me this afternoon. $39 + shipping.

: ^ )

That's kind of what I figured but was hoping that there was some trick I was missing. Darn. Those pins can be pesky little buggers.

Air bags are not necessary if you wear the proper driving attire while out with the wife.

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Thanks for the great information Wayne and Keith (and for the original post John). When I think of Model T's, I find myself placing them in approximate groups. I think of the 1909-1911/12 T as a moderate priced quality car ($850 in 1909 was a significant amount, about $22,000 in todays dollars). During this same period, other auto makers were also...

My opinion, end play is over rated. I had more than .040 on my 15 and still rated good with an ECCT. If magnets are strong it should be ok to run. 15 volts certainly is. Heck I just put an engine back together after doing a quickie overhaul and not all of the poles were exactly what the book said it was supposed to be. Some were somewhere close...

Actually the pinion taper is 3½ per ft on diameter. This taper has an included angle of 16.594 degrees.

Eric makes a good point. The camera angles can make a big difference in how proportions look. If you look at the individual pieces it's hard to doubt they are much the same.
Good points all around.
Rich

You can test at road speeds by running the car with that left wheel jacked off the floor. But the test of survivability will be in actual driving.

Doing as you suggest will cause a double speed display because of the differential and one wheel not rotating. :D

In addition, this can be done lots simpler and without getting a CO poisoning in my...

No government conspiracy. It was the style of the Flapper era. :P

They didn't have good permanent magnets prior to WWII. Most large radios and some table tops used an electromagnet for a field magnet. The field magnet was usually supplied with filtered DC at high voltage by the plate supply. They usually included a hum-bucking coil on the same core as the large field magnet winding. The hum bucker was much...

Wow. Where to begin?
First off, bodies in the 1910s were mostly made by outside body suppliers, not by Ford. So they varied quite a bit from one supplier to the next as well as even one batch order to the next. Although by 1920, many if not most open car bodies were being made by Ford, there still were a lot of variations that continued.
Some...

Tom 👋

Jared can be reached by voice or text
at his cell phone @ nine-1-three-7-zero-6-zero-1-nine-2

He is joining the local Tucson MTFCA chapter 👍

FJ

Very nice message, YES, keep Christ in Christmas ! And the T also!

I have a file which has several Model T's in India. will attach a few photo's
We have a member here from India who restored a Model T there before migrating to Australia.
He was not allowed to export the Ford when he left India.

Terry,

I could view your attachment that is a PDF format and I made some snippets to show what it looked like. They are posted below:

Torpedo - part 1 - Terry Wood.JPG

Torpedo - part 2- Terry Wood.JPG

Torpedo - part 3 - Terry Wood.JPG

What year/years did FoMoCo of CANADA make a Torpedo Runabout as well as a Commercial Delivery Car (pie...

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good catch, Pat
is obvious now, but wasn't the other night :?

I suspected that the Brush auto was planted to make the video more interesting.

I taught my high school friend to drive hers this past summer. She had never driven it since owning it. She took her lessons the day we got it running after several years of slumber.

www.trackofthewolf.com. Laurel Mountain Forge LMF-Stain-Cherry.

Problem solved. A friend here in Texas is going to handle it. Maybe he can contact the seller and straighten things out so I can bid again from him.

Dan, Two of the taps are marked with only Stevens and the size , no Walden markings. The other two are marked Rollfast and the size. I have 4 different Stevens catalogs and a Stevens/Walden catalog and I have not found any reference to these left-hand taps.

Humblej, I bid on the taps just for the two right-hand taps and the left-hand taps were...

I'm not too far away, in Paris Ontario. Let me know if I can help.

Near as I can tell? The front half of the body looks similar to Donnie Brown's. However the back look like it could even be a common runabout turtle deck? (Maybe?) The gasoline tank, whatever shape it is, is likely inside the trunk deck. Although it could even be rear frame mounted (seen that a couple times also!). Either way, it would likely have...

I certainly am no expert about these. But there is a considerable difference between 1910 and 1912 roadsters. I couldn't begin to name all the changes, but just having looked at dozens of photos of them, I can see numerous differences. The aforementioned steel clad 1912 bodies is just one thing. I have noticed changes in the back of the rear deck,...

I have often used modern bolts when I didn't have originals. That requires grinding and buffing away the modern markings, drilling cotter holes, stripping off the cad plating (paint won't stick to it), painting, and baking. But the cognoscenti will spot them because the modern heads are shorter. That's why I watch for cans of original hardware at...

I've welded the band and added a reinforced area on the outside covering the weld.

That is NOT a good idea. It's your brakes for goodness sake... fix them right.

The steel band is essentially in tension — you don’t think a butt weld and overlap reinforcement is going to pull apart?

I used the rebuild kit from Lang's with great success on my '26. The plastic is black and you really can't tell it's not wood until you touch it.
Went together quickly <1hr. Well worth the $70. The old wood I removed was cracked badly..... an ignition problem in the making.

Many thanks to Joss who lives close to
Jared & his family 👍

Joss came out Wednesday afternoon to
meet me as I unloaded - the plan was
to give driving lessons to Jared - but as
sometimes happens - the Model T didn’t
want to start 🤷‍♂️

Thanks to Rudy Nelson - my diesel mechanic
and my friend - in Winslow, AZ - for getting
the Model T running...

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What's on second.
Craig.

I have also heard mention of a device to hold the framework centered in place over the tappet bosses.
Craig

I believe you'd wind up going to a great deal of trouble and some expense to wind up with a modded-up body and chassis. I'd use the '20-ish body and the chassis you have. Since you've built a wood body, I'd think you'd be equipped and able to deal with re-wooding the 20-ish roadster body. With all that said, it seems to have become a trueism that...

That makes you more than special Steve! LOL

Thank you for the pictures. This clear things up well.

Then I wonder why a south Texas acquaintance always overheated after half hour of driving with a non reinforced long rubber inlet pipe ? Then, when we replaced that long rubber tube with a pipe from one of the vendors, the overheating discontinued. Difference in earth’s hemisphere ? 😜

Joe Bell does a great job. Cheers Bill

Jim, I dont see the average bear steam bending hardwood on a compound curve. I have not made roadster trim strips, but I do a lot of woodworking. I would consider making a stiff paper template using the roadster body to determine the shape. I would transfer the pattern onto thin strips of hardwood about 3/32 thick and glue up the strips using the...

That's just how it ought to be!
Beautiful photos.
Thanks
Rich

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Thanks for posting this cotter pin use chart.
I find even this trivia level of info very interesting & helpful to my T knowledge base.
Thats appreciation to any & all posting this sort of enlightening information.

I wish the trim for the door latches had more to bend over! There really isn't enough to do the job.

Who supplies John Regan's plastic coil box parts?
John's Fun Projects company was bought by the folks at Birdhaven. I've heard they've had trouble keeping his products in stock and have discontinued some, along with the website. I don't know the status of the coil box kit.

I do know that original bolts and contacts are superior to the...

Many thanks Scott, Steve and Dan. I greatly appreciate your quick responses. I'm tempted to go with bolts initially and replace them with the rivets when I get more time to disassemble the body parts blocking my path.

Thanks you all for your willingness to share.

Mike

Thanks for the tips! Stan

Think that machine is an early RollOverland.

Love it!!! :lol:

Thank you gents for all of the feedback
I am inclined to believe the hubs are custom made and I will find someone with lathe etc to make me a new one
I will go ahead and start using locktite on all of my hubs as I also lost a much more complicated hub on my 28 Buick

Will Snyders
Penn Valley, Ca

Thanks. Beautiful coupe!!

You're one of the good guys (of which there are many) Hank. Good to hear that you're stilling ginnin as we say in south Texas.

I tried to do a forum search to see if I could find the post I had made about that little can of cotter keys. It didn't come up. Perhaps someone else can find it.

If it's an original coil with the Ford large capacitor and the glass, I find it easiest to ease the side of the case off - the side opposite the terminals. You're going to scrap the capacitor, so just ease a blade down the side and force the joints apart.
The old glue is weak; I've never broken the wood.
Then you can pull out the capacitor and...

It might work, but the inlet is straight thread for flared pipe, so you would have to do a fitting in between the sediment bowl and I think 1/2 NPT in the tank. Sorry forgot about that.

Thanks guys. Steven sent me information.
Keith

Thanks to everyone for their responses, appreciated !

When I have welding jobs about which I am uncertain, I take the job to a pro, especially if cast iron and subsequent machining/drilling/tapping are required. It saves me stuffing it up and perhaps making it worse.

Allan from down under.

Larry
The first production run of Prus heads were cast iron. I bought then and have one. No it’s not for sale!

Donnie is 100% correct about loading a large pile. There is nothing like getting in the loft of a barn in Mississippi in the middle of August (100 deg) to clean out a barn full of T parts.
After you get done you wonder why do I do stuff like this.

I wouldn't use leather conditioner on 1922 Model T open car upholstery.

For one thing, it isn't actually leather.

Any goo, goop, salve or ointment you put on factory leatherette will just seep into the cotton backing.

My opinion is that cleaning the leatherette with a rag and soapy water should suffice.

MTFCA sells The Vintage Ford magazine cover art in flats that can be framed. You can send an email to

admin@mtfca.com

They have many beautiful cover photos available.

We have a wide area of members I am likely the closest we try to have some
Tours in all member areas we to tech or help sessions in the cold months soon request.
If yo go ahead and fill out the stuff on the website you will start getting emails letting
You know what and where. We have a good group philip

What you show indicates a March 1917 body date and the other numbers would be the body serial number.

Note: the month and year are usually separated by a dot and then there is another dot followed by the body serial number. If you do see a dash, that most likely is a nick or gouge that occurred at later date.

In any event, because the body is...

How can a LED operate on AC without constant flickering?

John,

There's a long answer to this, but let's stick to the short one for now ... AC LED lamps will typically contain a rectifier, and may also contain a capacitor and driver. These things effectively change the AC to DC, allowing the LED to operate as you need.

With particular regard...

R V, a friend of mine exhausted all sources look for a set of body bolts for a 1916 Touring.

He will buy a set if you get some of those!

Keep me posted.

That is a very nice looking model t. You can be proud of that car.

Art Mirtes

The choice of LH thread was likely to allow the adjustment to be 'tightened' by rotating the slotted screw to the right. McMaster has your back for sure: jb

Another great batch of photos.
I noticed that the cars in the snow have traction rope wrapped around the rear wheels

I had gotten a frame and running gear which had sat outside for who knows how long. I took the starter switch off and soaked it in apple cider vinegar to de-rust it but it didn't work. I took it apart and the two contacts were dirty and worn. I smoothed them out and cleaned and repainted and lubricated it and it now works perfectly. The spring was...

Dave, My 1911 top seems too narrow at the front. It does not come down far enough across the sides of the front bow so it appears to go uphill from the rear bow. The top was a kit that came with the car, it was not made by Mike but by a very well known man who has since passed away. Mike said he would make a custom top deck but I am not sure what...

Yes, should be lots of help available there. It's a very active group in that part of the state. Hope to see you also at the Pre War Swap Meet in Luray coming up n the spring.
Terry

And for bling you could get that style front fender brace nickel plated!

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And no, a cutout,system does not have to be in that case. It just has to be in the circuit.

Art Mirtes

It would be great if someone with the proper skills could go through all that footage, and clean it up so it would be more clear. We could all learn a lot if we could see the details more clearly.

There footage on many of these links is repeated and many are crisp and clear. It almost looks like people have copied from one-another and made their...

From what I can see in your picture, it appears to be ready to reline the bands, especially the low band. I can only see a bit of the brake and low drum, and they look OK, what I can see. Hard to check anything else from just looking at a picture.
Norm

Original paint on 1910 touring.

John, Yes, I will change the needle, and there is a hole in the block and valve cover as shown in the photo. There already was a hole in the block, and the rebuilder put one in the valve cover.