MTFCA Forum

A survivor - many renovations but note the overhand on the top of the roof, even the easement for the telephone pole
7202 Boston State Road
North Boston, NY 14110

Now you can assist those electric car folks that may need some extra juice to get home!

Hank

Jerry, I did not add the timesaver step as the original question was about how the old timers did it. I do use time-saver as my final step of fitting just before step 7 .

One more trick I use when using time-saver is to wash out the bearing with carburetor cleaner during cleanup. I have cleaned the bearings very well with rags and washing in gas...

I just bought a set of pistons and it says 2 to 3 tho clearance, it seems tight to me ,what do you think for new pistons? MEL

It depends on condition of the block: We thermal clean the engines so they get the heat transfer. We set our cylinders to their recommended 3 thousandths clearance and have never had and issue.

Give them a call. I have one in my TT but have not put a ton of miles on it. (pun intended) basically under, straight through and overdrive. Those guys are great. Racers too I think.

Steve. The ledlight.com wedge light works on a/c and dc from 6 to 30 volts. should work on a mag and maintain close to the same brightness at all engine speeds from idle to high speed. The headlights wiring must be changed to parallel instead of series. a better method is change to 6 or 12 volt led bulbs and use the mag for charging the small...

The first photo is very interesting. It is a 1910 model chassis. The front hubs appear to be 5 1/2 inch size which were used 1909-1910 models. The radiator neck is the low one used 1909-10. The front fenders have a lip, which would lead one to say 1910 and not 1909 model. I enjoy viewing early photos of early chaisses.

I took the advice given and I am going use the existing wood, except for the four ribs.

Attached are photos of the new ribs which I just received from Jeff Humble. He made them using original drawings. They are excellent. I really appreciate him doing that for me!

Stutsman did my wood felloes for 250.00 each this summer and did a beautiful job.

I suspect that you'd find that many new late T Fords of a particular color did not all match any and all other late new T Fords in that particular color.

It took me about eight seconds to spot the front axle! Then I had to laugh! Neat!

I had one of those on a '26 I sold 40 years ago. It was a great carb, the car would do 57 mph all day and get over 20 mpg doing it. I still kick myself for letting it go on the car.

M and S is nothing more than a sales pitch!

Hank

I forgot to mention Orville Enyeart lived a couple blocks away from me. My dad and I were friends with him through the Long Beach Model T Club.

I really liked that aftermarket 1915 extended truck cab toward the end. I’d make one if I was a woodworker. Kevin and Norman; I really like the way you think.

I'd like to hear Luke's analysis of the feasibility of monitoring the primary frequency of the AC Ford Magneto voltage output and using that to compute engine rpm? I suspect it's a pretty noisy waveform. Counting the 'pulse rate' of two timer contacts eg, #1 and #4 would give rpm as well. FWIW, jb

You called? :)

I'd not responded to Michael's...

Amen to that Ray.

Sent you a PM if you want any photos of the hinge I’m using.

Excellent T..!!

Thank you Steve. My son will do a video about all restoration I did for my 1914 ... Before and after.

At the start 2 years ago some parts together...
1914 old first time.JPG

Now the complete car in 2021
1914 speedster finished.JPG

The OF Stan rebuilt for me was a pile of parts I'd gathered over the years. I had a Studebaker branded fuel bowl cover for it, not being able to find a Stromberg one. Now I have one, I am loathe to upset Stan's work to fit it.

We have two light 6 Studebakers at the farm. Both have Detriot Lubricator carburetors, so perhaps the Strombergs were on...

I forgot to add in my response, please when you find the problem tell us what it is/was. We don't learn if we are not told. Thanks!!

Thanks Jim! That’s one thing that still plagues me.

Brad

Norm

yes, it's a Stromberg OE-1 that is uniquely jetted and branded specifically for Studebaker. The Studebaker cover is identical to standard Stromberg covers and are interchangeable.

It marries up with this project:

Alan, trust me, it's my wife who is patient! I know, because I test her frequently :lol:

The delivery car appears to be the regular body style (early)It is different from the knock down style(late) which would come apart in pieces. You can tell the difference with the absence of the 3 step bolts where the body curves towards the bottom. There are wooden ribs behind the metal to which a steel body brace that mounts the rib to the...

It may work, after a fashion, if you clean the points. They're fun to play with, but take care ... they do bite. A person using a cardio pacemaker might best avoid the things.

Take a close look- it's sprung at the hub and not at the spokes!

I noticed that! Looks like I see a shock absorber to.

Back in the late 60s A concours was started at Peacock Gap in Marin County. At this time concours were a fairly new idea around here and the rules were quite different than now. Ray's car was one of the three cars that were entered in the Model T Ford class, Rays 09, a black cut off touring, and another black T that I don't even remember. Ray was...

Past threads about Donnie B's car have shown era photos of several similar speedsters, some clearly made from brass era cars, some from later cars. It was a fairly popular style, with a lot of variations. Some had bench seats, others divided seats. Some used the standard model T round gasoline tank, others larger tanks, and in several sizes. I...

Thank you Scott C!

Thank you, Terry. I was going to mention that, but didn’t want to influence any comments I received. It is possible that the label is wrong and the person that put it on was not sure what he had. Like you say it could be for an early Mag horn or for a goose horn,but it does fit several head holes on top of the engine. Jim Patrick

No worse than an old Laurel and Hardy movie. I doubt anyone would think it's real or attempt it themselves. It was all for the shot, she had to face the camera! I do like how the car started to shake and the engine began to run while she was still cranking though.

The diamond tufted seat cushion is the hardest part. If you would like a kit or partial kit feel free to email me at mike@classtiqueupholstery.com

Mike
Www.classtiqueupholstery.com

Brian, if it's not too late, take my advice. HAVE MIKE DO THE SEAT BOTTOM!! You won't regret the little bita extra expense.
I did have Elizabeth do both seat...

My first car was a 29 A. After that I had 13 different A's. I have had a few other cars over the years and now for the wife's car and our trip car we have a Suburu.
When we moved here to Alpine I had a 30 mile each way commute through the mountains and on a freeway. So I decided to sell my last A. Then we went for about 20 years without any old...

The ad
ZENITH MODEL S4BF BRASS CARBURETOR WITH ZENITH MANIFOLD “THIS IS IN EXCELLENT CONDITION.”
Both the carb and the manifold are in excellent condition on the outside. Both butterfly valves operate, but the return spring on the butterfly valve in photo 7 is broken. I did not take this apart to look inside, but I can hear what sounds like a...

Gary, I'd also say they are repo. I've never seen them before. I'd post the pictures on the EFR also, to see if there possibly pre T. Kim

I assume the couplet body weight of 500 lbs. includes the fenders, running boards, splash panels, truck lid, lights, hood, top material, glass, maybe the seat, and package tray?

Any estimates/guesses on what the body weight would be on a 1927 coupe without those items?

Did have to check what Dan Hatch posted on 60 crowned fenders. Can't find any part # listings in Price List of Parts books.

But Bruce McCalley's CD Encyclopedia had them listed. He used for this master list of Part #s cross-referenced to Fac #s a book from Ford known as Factory Number Book, dated 1920 , containing every Ford Factory # at the...

Similar Holley carb of the era 4F6BEC07-464D-4477-974B-ACA319479924.jpeg

Perhaps some photos are needed.

The Side curtain rod is 7/16 stock. The hole in an unswaged 7/16 grommet is smaller than 7/16 because the tapered press makes it larger after it passes thru the washer.

Here is an original Ford groomet on my 26 Runabout.
IMG_5508.JPG

Here is my reproduction made with brass telescope tubing.
IMG_5507.JPG

Here...

Nice Clearance!!!!!

IMG_6502.jpeg

IMG_6503.jpeg

IMG_6504.jpeg

Chris

I must say that but for the modern cars in the photo, that looks very much like a Richard Eagle painting, complete with the blurred snowflakes!

Isn't is this what Tony Wiltshire's (RIP) timer is doing?

Nice to see the Ideal Timer is living up to its name and its claim. Thanks for sharing your experiences using it.

Awesome! Wonder if there are instructions on it's use? I've done a few alignments on my other cars and find this tool interesting.

212 is the original side thrust rux bearing #. Current # 7212. 6212 would be the same dimensionally without side thrust.(never use in a rux)
As far a s TT, I know nothing. I would not guess them to use the same bearings. The alphabet behind the number indicates cage & seal info.

Its rux sized. 60x110x25mm

Remember to remove the bendix to avoid hang up upon removal.

We use EZ TURN, fuel lube on gas and oil fittings. Takes up some of the slop in old threads and doesn't degrade when exposed to petroleum products. Keeps those pesky little drips away. For instance, I just dressed ny oil plug with it after an oil change in the T yesterday. Works very well. You can find it at online aircraft sites as it is...

Dan,

Thank you. With this information, the history of the car, and the remnant of the sticker on the windshield, I would assume it is,indeed, from when the car was new.

Paul

Were any of these ambulances wide track?

Au Bois de Boulogne, voici un défilé de confortables voitures appartenant aux ambulances américaines

Ambulance detail.png

ark__73873_pf0001875437_v0001.jpg

These short bodied cars. like Walt Disney's were not ambulances, they were delivery cars

Wiring diagrams for all HCCT's are on this web site.

For cold driving, remove the top floor board. Lets in a surprising amount of heat. I drove my Touring car in 20's temps and stayed fairly warm. It was an old trick of my Dad's, who drove T's year round in his early days.

I do! What a great time!

When blown up to 400% it appears to be a woman who has her hair parted down the middle with a crown of curls around the edges. Her head appears to be tilted foreward almost touching the steering wheel, wearing a white blouse or dress and green eyes. Oh I got carried away!!! :-)

Just a guess from an old crime scene processor,

Dom

Ron,

Glad to hear you are getting settled in your new digs. Thanks for all your help to me and the members of the hobby. A private email will follow shortly.

Belated Thanksgiving greetings,

Dom

Is blue RTV different from the black variety, or is it cheaper? The red and blue colours really do look pig ugly on a T. At least the black tends to disappear from plain sight.

Allan from down under.

The ultra black & silver have a body. Possibly aluminum powder. Way tougher stuff. Thicker & more solid.

I enjoy driving my Model T's, regardless of the road.

As far as I know, the early and late bushes are all the same dimension. Rears have a larger OD than the front ones.

Allan from down under.

To add what I posted about opening the garage door when I’m starting my T’s I always put a 2 by 4 in front of my cars when I start them to run them when I get out of the cars to warm them up or to run them a good while. The above post can happen if you take for granted the hand brake and it’s condition.
It’s sort of like working on a car when we...

To follow up, I received the correct crank today, and it fits just like it’s supposed to. The picture is with the ratchet and pin installed, and the ratchet engaged. A little cleanup and paint, and I’ll check this item off the list.
0F9F0B11-F7DA-4E0C-B4D4-4110D324B85D.jpeg

The Silver Streak was driven by the Gypsy Co-eds. It's a story worth reading in a book that's worth owning.

Thanks Greg. There is a unexplainable charm in the artwork from those eras that hasn't been matched since. Like the old photos they can take us to wonderful, unique places like nothing else.
It's a treat each time I see one.
Rich

Itchy nose to grease issue! :lol: Been there! What's worse is when you get a dob of silver anti-seize on your fingers and don't realize it. You get silver all over the place and yourself!

I’ve run a TW for three years with great luck. Had the bad repo New Day for one season. Now have a good shape old one with a good brush as a spare. Took the brush apart and put a slightly stiffer spring in it and test ran it. Ran as good as the TW.

IMHO, Mr. Tothill’s outfit is much more refined than a typical golfer. The pith helmet really makes a statement. 8-)

Eric

Do you guys tin the mains in the block? Ruby red is awesome for tinning. Generally speaking the fist time you have moisture on you block or caps is generally your last ha.

FWIW- I've place 2 orders in the last 2 weeks- both orders arrived in 2 days. I hope they are here to stay.

Thanks for posting that Ron! This is the quality you can expect from RV and his amazing team!

The Packard ornament isn't missing anything. The junior cars (120, 120B, 120C and 110C) all had the radiator cap under the hood.

Notice too, the lower photo is an early 1925 frame, using up the last of the 1924 style frames.

Looks like Jed could have used that hood.

As I said, the wishbone prevents side to side movement. Through triangulation, the axle can’t move side to side, just pivot at the pan mount. If you mount the panhard bar parallel to the axle, it minimizes any induced movement. Dodge 4x4 trucks with solid axles and coil springs have used them for years! They do get very hard to drive if the link...

There are no padded arm rest seats in real auto polo.

At what point during the assembly does it get tight to turn?
I assume you are using the original pins and used gear and bushings the face of the bushing touches the flywheel. There should be about 0.006” clearance between the gear and the flywheel.
I assemble the drums on a flat surface, then put the triple gears and driven gears with the “U”...

John,

If that Crow is prepared well, I bet it will taste like Chicken or maybe even Turkey. :-)

Happy Thanksgivings to all,

Dom

A happy and safe Thanksgiving to all the Forum members and their families.

I read your comments and I thank you!

I installed a 1914 gas tank under the seat of this 1912 Torpedo. The reservoir fit perfectly under the seat high above the master cylinder. But due to the gas tank I have to find another higher ground.

I forgot to mention I can reach through the rear wheel well and easily switch it on and off. Switch the ground.....

Thanks Tom, you always post the best photos!

I know this may be silly but, Does your coil box have a properly fitted lid? I had one that someone had removed the hold down fingers in the middle section it would run fine until you hit a bump. then you would have to remove the lid and push the center 2 coils back down.....

Check this out..

It's not really hard..

Cap

This is the future. There has been at least one other “model t collection” auction recently where entire shelves and bins of parts were sold for a few bucks. You can’t be for “keeping the hobby alive” and also care about getting the money out of a part you paid top dollar for 40 years ago. Times are changing.

The small spaces between commutator segments can become packed with material from the brushes which can allow current to leak from one segment to another instead of passing through the armature windings and energizing the motor. Old oil and gum can interfere with brush function too. The narrow spaces between the commutator segments can be cleaned...

It sounds like you have covered the bases and given the car a good shakedown. It looks like a general overhaul is the next step for the powerplant. Vlaves and oil burning aside, and while not an absolute necessity, a good mag is a good thing to have. I like having the option of using the starter, or starting on the spark , or hand cranking on...

I just remembered that I have 2 journeyman and 2 apprentice electricians coming to dinner on Thursday, seems like a good time to use them.

David,

If 3084 survived into the 1950s as a running fairly original car -- it most likely is still around barring some major disaster such as a garage fire etc. An early May 1909 car would have been very disirable then as well as now.

Note if the only thing with the 3084 number on it was a reproduction ID plate and the car was actaully a put...

To add to Chris Barkers comment about the Rolls Royce getting all the credit. I like this little article on the RR and the T.