MTFCA Forum

Ken is right. Just get those 2 accessory L brackets that fit under the crankcase with 4 bolt holes each that stabilizes the tranny cover, pan and block. I’m at the Dr. office now but someone will list the correct nomenclature.

Oil Pan Supports
L's
Belly

I have tried using one of the magents on the flex shaft, the type that looks like choke cable. As long as the missing part(s) was on the transmission side, worked fine, but would hang up on the flywheel starter teeth when trying to feed it under.

It appears by the tooling marks and the inconsistency among the teeth I believe they were not hobbed. It appears they may have been indeed cut with a form cutter. That sounds crude and inefficient but that is what I am seeing on the low speed gear that I have. Typically what I have seen in the past with gears that were cut with a gear hobb there...

I clicked on the photo to enlarge and it is taking me to some other photo hosting site. Maybe a photo that is a little lighter. But, offhand I would say no, but can not see it real well.

I would say that TT is pulling a stand up rake. Loading loose hay that high with a fork would be very difficult. Strattling the windrow is another clue.

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Those are all good tips, Bob. Thanks for posting them.

Good advice about your radiator. They can still look “good” but can definitely fool you. Been there and done that. Do as others have mentioned and use some JB weld and some pieces of tail pipe or tubing to fix a decent repair and see if the radiator works.

If it doesn’t you can have it recored for around $6-700.00. Still not real cheap but you...

Robert,

If your 1926 is closer to being on the road, I would encourage you to get it running first. Having one that drives is a big encouragement to most of us. (And one that also stops.) Although it sounds like you may have another one that is driveable? And if so then you have one to help keep you motivated. I would not normally recommend...

Appreciate the answers, a forum member reached out to me via email and with a few exchanges, answered my questions.

I would recommend that you visit a good machine shop and have the surface of the block reground. Just take off enough to make it smooth. Do the same to the head if it is pitted like that. That will also raise the compression a bit. When you put it back together put the head on without any gasket and check that the pistons don't hit the head. The...

We were spared however some of our friends lost their homes, others were evacuated. One friend lost all of his classics. Big mess for sure.

David, I applied the same logic to my 1912 van, except that in that case the whole former could be juggled around on the flat firewall. That allowed me to juggle the height and the sideways setting. The hood ended up fitting beautifully, with the built up rod hole 1/4 higher and 3/8 offset from centre. It is not noticeable at all.

Allan from down...

Steve, I think they lost the plot converting the dimensions of that switch. It's huge if you believe what you read.

Luke, a small push/pull switch, mounted as I suggested, can be hidden. Just mount it further forward and dogleg the bracket up a bit if needed. I find if things are not within easy reach, they tend to be ignored somewhat.

Allan...

The MTFCI judging guidelines give textual descriptions for each model year of the more common, later-used lamps. They also have two pages with 23 photos illustrating the lamps used from the beginning thru 1912 along with info on the stampings on the lamps. For example, In the text of the guidelines, for 1912 Sidelamps it says: Jno Brown Model 100...

That car is probably long gone but at least it will live forever in a photograph. At least we know about what type of car it was. I don’t think I have ever heard of a Marion until now. Looked pretty nice for a 1909. It belonged to a local Family here in my hometown.
Thanks for all the help.
Robbie

On a similar topic...automated phone calls, I keep trying to get them to put the extended warranty on my '13 Ford. Maybe they'll do it when I get an odometer on ot!

I'm sure others like me have found it hard to find information about these kinds of things. The Internet and other sources have a wealth of information, but digging it out isn't always easy.
Thanks for all who bring these bits of additional information.
Rich Eagle

Run your motor in the dark, sparks jumping between wires will easily become evident. My Dodge was running poorly until I opened the hood one night out in the driveway and saw the lightshow. Had sparks jumping from the spark wires to the headers on 4 cylinders. Don.

When there’s a will there’s a way. Good job varmint! Being a maintenance mechanic / welder for many years and when I saw your post I was wondering how you would do it. I thought welding the panels together would work. It’s something that’s not commonly done.
When prime and painting the panel I would imagine it would be a good idea to sand off the...

Parts are worth more then a complete car
Especially in a speedster

it doesnt work for me ,i only get 1 date that lights up in2010 and get error on that date

WHAT WAS THAT YOU SAID ABOUT SHORT PIPES? I'M A MITE HARD O'HEARING ON ACCOUNT OF I ALWAYS RUN SHORT PIPES.

I like that idea. Then we could comment on them more easily. Sometimes it's hard to point out certain pictures when there are lot's in a row.
They certainly are special.
Thanks for the kind words.
Rich

Actually, she's a Cougar! She shares a garage with Harrison Ford! :D
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It was in a bunch of T Model stuff I bought. I didn’t think it was for a T.
Does anybody have any use for it?

...What is the apparatus on the drivers side front spring shackle? And what sort of friction shock setup is that, and is it only on one end of the axle?...

Randy, the front suspension is a sort of 'Poor Man's Panhard' setup, inspired by numerous Austin 7 Specials (what they call speedsters) in the UK.

The driver's shackle is locked from...

Scott, I am 99% sure the 26-27 wishbones are different. Ill include a link to the Improved Models a study of threads I did a few years ago. It will show the discussion on the different angles of the wishbones.

and yes, to the changing of the wishbones and needing to re-check the caster adjustment. When this axle is installed, it will need the...

I have some old WICO stationary engine magnetos, and they have the dual coil arrangement. At least one of them is still in working order, and it has had no repair or replacement work for at least 70 years that I know of.

This is for a 1924 Touring that I have been working on now for three years. Just waiting for a friend to come over and help me put on a new top, everything else is nearly ready. Thanks

Found on road dead is an understatement. From those pictures it looks like the road died too.

Go to your local hardware store and ask for shovel handle rivets. They should have them in a jandorf box somewhere. These work great for felloe plate rivets on early wheels.

I'm not trying to start an argument, but my Sprinter is the perfect tow vehicle for my purposes. It's converted to a camper van and on some tours I choose to camp in it either at the tour or while enroute if it's some distance away. If I were pulling a loads like Freighter Jim it wouldn't do the job but the turbo-diesel performs well for me, even...

I got the rubber ones for my ‘26 coupe and apparently, they were not long enough, because the first time I opened the doors wide, they broke at the loop, so, I would advise getting the 8” ones. Jim Patrick

If I understand your problem correctly, you are making up a shortened driveshaft tube from loose parts to fit a Muncie you are installing. You have a new old stock driveshaft ball end to use in the shortened tube. The clearance at the ball in the Muncie housing is 0.040, which is to much play. Because the driveshaft angle is steeper than stock T...

Do these things first. Check the wire between the magneto post and the terminal block. Then check the wire between the terminal block and the ignition switch. You should have continuity between all these points, however, there should be no connection between the magneto and the battery. Be sure that the switch either connects to the magneto or the...

My 17 at first cranked like stirring molasses, my thoughts were how am I going to hand crank this,the old oil I drained out was almost gear oil, I put in some used 5w30(360 miles in a Porsche- ),I took the transmission cover off and poured some on the bands, and back into the clutches ,poured some in the cylinders and let it set. Now I am...

I suspect you introduced him to the Forum. That can be the best way to keep in touch with Model T'ers for many of us away from the action.

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Thanks for the explanation Richard ! I now understand why the kit contained it's own axle shaft.

Thank you all for you kind words

If you clean up the steel tube of the column the brass quadrant can be slid down the tube so you can get at the column under the quadrant. Then you have access to the area of the case body and working the steel column with light hammer blows can be much more targeted. This will help break up any rust/corrosion which may have frozen the parts...

Whenever I see period pictures of Model T’s I always wonder if any in the pictures are one I drive now!

A simple coil (choke) can act as a variable resistance (actually impedance) in a variable frequency AC circuit. For the operating frequncy range of the T magneto, I'd think you'd need an iron cored choke, similar to the primary winding of the T coil. It would be placed in series with the devices, such as lights, that you wanted to provide with...

Vaporizer Rebuild
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The following diagrams are explained in the link above

John,

Generally there are 3 types of service - Good, Cheap and Fast. You can pick 2. The results are:

Good and Cheap service won't be Fast
Fast and Cheap service won't be Good
Good and Fast service won't be Cheap

Best of luck,

Dom

Hello, Frank,
thank you for writing.

Rainer, if you apply some petroleum jelly or some cooking oil on the hood and the new leather it will possibly squeeze in. Only use a rubber hammer when working on the hood. Most hoods on the model T’s are somewhat bent up like yours and if it doesn’t bother you, drive it the way it is, there isn’t enough...

Here's the links to a couple of great videos. I always enjoy taking a look at any annual coverage of this event as their is always a heap of nice early T's and lots of other lovely brass cars to look at.

Thanks Jeff!
I imagine that you are correct that the frame/body is bent.

Here are the height measurements I found:
T3600A Left Front 1-1/2”
T3600A Left Middle 1”
T3600A-B Left Back 3-1/2+”
T3600A Right Front 1-3/8”
T3600A Right Middle-1-3/16”
T3600A-B Right Back 3-1/2+”

Note the center on both sides is lower forcing the frame to bend.

Now I...

Thank you also frontyboy.

Best regards, John Page.

These are the only photos on hand of my 1920 Runabout that would show the top bows;

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A few more Huff-Holley-Ford tidbits.

Many knew Huff was Henry Ford's mechanician on his first racer, Sweepstakes, and held the carb open when HF made his world record on ice in early 1904. What I suspect few knew was Huff was driving 999 when Frank Day was killed driving Arrow in the early fall 1903 at the Milwaukee fairground track:...

Put a real battery box in there, and you are good to go!

Congratulations! Great detective work…..

This thread on Fordbarn has a nice exploded view of the Powerhouse including the bearings.

Raw, unanodized parts for trials, with the working prototype 3D-printed predecessor prototype.
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Thanks everyone, found correct bracket

It was proposed to be made by Hawk model company, but AFAIK, it has yet to be produced. RATS!

Michael

the only good new ones I'm aware of were John Ragan's and they were to the original drawing, from dimensions to material - phosphor-bronze as I recall and will be springy until the end of time. These are not those. Sadly, I believe these, like all of the old Fun-Projects line, are not being made any more (I hope I'm wrong and will be...

I have got a lot of local reaction to the nice article in the Minneapolis Star Tribune. A very nice tribute to us and our store. We plan on being here for a few more years. If and when we decide to close out, It will take a lot of work, with help to sort out and sell or donate our stock and collections.. We have a good collection of Lake...

I liked seeing the picture of the Coalinga Motor Stage and the 1912 Model T. The trip from Coalinga Ca to Fresno Ca only takes under 90 minutes today but in the teens and early twenties it was a half day. I once knew a fellow that made the trip from Fresno to Coalinga as a 10 year old boy with his family, in the family’s well worn 1914 T, in the...

Robert,
You cant go wrong with Mike. I used Classtique for my tan 26 top. Very happy!

Hope you find it but it will be a long shot after nearly 40+ years. Maybe check with a Model T club in the area where you think it was last located? Good luck. It could be Maroon by now!

Many thanks guys.. it was a bit rough.. I left it go at 200...

Glad to lear. He is feeling better. Thoughts and prayers for a full recovery.

Great looking Model A Ford! I think you will enjoy it a lot along with your T.

One of the things I like best about having a T and also an A is it is easier to see and understand how the Fords and for that matter cars in general developed over time. Similar to the T, many of the parts on the A are interchangable mechanically 1928-1931. And body...

Thanks for the link.

Another thing about #19 nobody has a hat on, most old pictures the gents have a boater or a derby or maybe a homburg but I see none of that here. Maybe a religious service of some sort. Jim

But what if it isn't sh*t falling off, but good parts? Still honk, or just retrieve??
:)

I too use brass thumb nuts but without any washers on both the coil box and spark plugs. When the nut is almost tight, with the terminal a little to one side, I turn both the nut and terminal tight. Most of the time, they stay tight.

The engine looks to be just sitting there, filling the space, so maybe it did have a different engine when it was built with different pulley.

Thanks all, I removed them last night, spring loaded punch, 1/8 pilot hole followed by 1/4 drill, rivet heads all fell off.

That'll work too :D

59 seems tight for me ,and seems to be pulling on the fenders ,toward the body and cant mount the rear fenders . Thanks for the replies .

Back in the late 1960's, I had a Depot Hack made from a 1923 touring car chassis. The body, I think was a Syverson body made in Illinois. I don't know if it came with an under body spare tire rack, or whether the previous owner added it, but there was a place under the wooden body in the back that the spare rim and tire, slid into.

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Fijne feestdagen en een gelukkig nieuwjaar

I have done both and many others. I cranked my 26 Buick a lot in high school. The biggest I have cranked up is a 1917 American LaFrance T-head six. Over 900 cubic inch displacement. I have also started a Caterpillar 60 with a crowbar in the flywheel notches. The compression release helped on both of those. Any engine you are strong enough to pull...

Ruckstel operating instructions.pdf

Not the same brochure, but helpful to new owners all the same.

It is a valve spring compressor for Model A and Model B 4 cylinder engines. The tool in the second post is used to remove the valve guides in those engines. Hope that helps.

Yes, Once the valve guides are tapped out with the tool the valves come right out. Guess I should have been more specific….😊

Thanks for the advice. I have the old ball off and the tube is almost 10/1000 larger than the hole on the new one. I can turn it down to a good slip fit. I like the idea of getting it aligned and on with locktite, then doing the rivets. I will make sure to do it at 90 degrees to make my sons life easier at some point.

Remember to keep the metal valve stem -- it can be reused...
If it's old enough. If the tube is the modern type the stem base may be too small for reuse.

Thanks Bill! That is the answer I was hoping for.

I guess maybe I should've included the model number in the drawings title.

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That's an easy fix, this is a Model 19

There is no need for a special plug for a remote battery charger. The battery under the seat, next to the fuel tank just sits there. I charge it when I get home again by hooking one lead on the charger to the battery terminal on the coilbox, and the other to earth on a manifold clamp.
On my depot hack, I do the same. Its battery is under the seat...

How about this pair, no flat spot around socket. Top and middle pictures are same lamp 24 hours apart.

. . . A past owner who had the Coupe reupholstered went to the trouble to have faux leather applied under the seats . . .

Alas, so often fixing things too good results in unintended consequences! :lol:

A cautionary tale that vindicates the purist approach. Plenty of things can go wrong with a T in it's native state without adding additional...