MTFCA Forum

Similar Holley carb of the era 4F6BEC07-464D-4477-974B-ACA319479924.jpeg

Perhaps some photos are needed.

The Side curtain rod is 7/16 stock. The hole in an unswaged 7/16 grommet is smaller than 7/16 because the tapered press makes it larger after it passes thru the washer.

Here is an original Ford groomet on my 26 Runabout.
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Here is my reproduction made with brass telescope tubing.
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Here...

Nice Clearance!!!!!

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Chris

I must say that but for the modern cars in the photo, that looks very much like a Richard Eagle painting, complete with the blurred snowflakes!

Isn't is this what Tony Wiltshire's (RIP) timer is doing?

Nice to see the Ideal Timer is living up to its name and its claim. Thanks for sharing your experiences using it.

Awesome! Wonder if there are instructions on it's use? I've done a few alignments on my other cars and find this tool interesting.

212 is the original side thrust rux bearing #. Current # 7212. 6212 would be the same dimensionally without side thrust.(never use in a rux)
As far a s TT, I know nothing. I would not guess them to use the same bearings. The alphabet behind the number indicates cage & seal info.

Its rux sized. 60x110x25mm

Remember to remove the bendix to avoid hang up upon removal.

We use EZ TURN, fuel lube on gas and oil fittings. Takes up some of the slop in old threads and doesn't degrade when exposed to petroleum products. Keeps those pesky little drips away. For instance, I just dressed ny oil plug with it after an oil change in the T yesterday. Works very well. You can find it at online aircraft sites as it is...

Dan,

Thank you. With this information, the history of the car, and the remnant of the sticker on the windshield, I would assume it is,indeed, from when the car was new.

Paul

Were any of these ambulances wide track?

Au Bois de Boulogne, voici un défilé de confortables voitures appartenant aux ambulances américaines

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These short bodied cars. like Walt Disney's were not ambulances, they were delivery cars

Wiring diagrams for all HCCT's are on this web site.

For cold driving, remove the top floor board. Lets in a surprising amount of heat. I drove my Touring car in 20's temps and stayed fairly warm. It was an old trick of my Dad's, who drove T's year round in his early days.

I do! What a great time!

When blown up to 400% it appears to be a woman who has her hair parted down the middle with a crown of curls around the edges. Her head appears to be tilted foreward almost touching the steering wheel, wearing a white blouse or dress and green eyes. Oh I got carried away!!! :-)

Just a guess from an old crime scene processor,

Dom

Ron,

Glad to hear you are getting settled in your new digs. Thanks for all your help to me and the members of the hobby. A private email will follow shortly.

Belated Thanksgiving greetings,

Dom

Is blue RTV different from the black variety, or is it cheaper? The red and blue colours really do look pig ugly on a T. At least the black tends to disappear from plain sight.

Allan from down under.

The ultra black & silver have a body. Possibly aluminum powder. Way tougher stuff. Thicker & more solid.

I enjoy driving my Model T's, regardless of the road.

As far as I know, the early and late bushes are all the same dimension. Rears have a larger OD than the front ones.

Allan from down under.

To add what I posted about opening the garage door when I’m starting my T’s I always put a 2 by 4 in front of my cars when I start them to run them when I get out of the cars to warm them up or to run them a good while. The above post can happen if you take for granted the hand brake and it’s condition.
It’s sort of like working on a car when we...

To follow up, I received the correct crank today, and it fits just like it’s supposed to. The picture is with the ratchet and pin installed, and the ratchet engaged. A little cleanup and paint, and I’ll check this item off the list.
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The Silver Streak was driven by the Gypsy Co-eds. It's a story worth reading in a book that's worth owning.

Thanks Greg. There is a unexplainable charm in the artwork from those eras that hasn't been matched since. Like the old photos they can take us to wonderful, unique places like nothing else.
It's a treat each time I see one.
Rich

Itchy nose to grease issue! :lol: Been there! What's worse is when you get a dob of silver anti-seize on your fingers and don't realize it. You get silver all over the place and yourself!

I’ve run a TW for three years with great luck. Had the bad repo New Day for one season. Now have a good shape old one with a good brush as a spare. Took the brush apart and put a slightly stiffer spring in it and test ran it. Ran as good as the TW.

IMHO, Mr. Tothill’s outfit is much more refined than a typical golfer. The pith helmet really makes a statement. 8-)

Eric

Do you guys tin the mains in the block? Ruby red is awesome for tinning. Generally speaking the fist time you have moisture on you block or caps is generally your last ha.

FWIW- I've place 2 orders in the last 2 weeks- both orders arrived in 2 days. I hope they are here to stay.

Thanks for posting that Ron! This is the quality you can expect from RV and his amazing team!

The Packard ornament isn't missing anything. The junior cars (120, 120B, 120C and 110C) all had the radiator cap under the hood.

Notice too, the lower photo is an early 1925 frame, using up the last of the 1924 style frames.

Looks like Jed could have used that hood.

As I said, the wishbone prevents side to side movement. Through triangulation, the axle can’t move side to side, just pivot at the pan mount. If you mount the panhard bar parallel to the axle, it minimizes any induced movement. Dodge 4x4 trucks with solid axles and coil springs have used them for years! They do get very hard to drive if the link...

There are no padded arm rest seats in real auto polo.

At what point during the assembly does it get tight to turn?
I assume you are using the original pins and used gear and bushings the face of the bushing touches the flywheel. There should be about 0.006” clearance between the gear and the flywheel.
I assemble the drums on a flat surface, then put the triple gears and driven gears with the “U”...

John,

If that Crow is prepared well, I bet it will taste like Chicken or maybe even Turkey. :-)

Happy Thanksgivings to all,

Dom

A happy and safe Thanksgiving to all the Forum members and their families.

I read your comments and I thank you!

I installed a 1914 gas tank under the seat of this 1912 Torpedo. The reservoir fit perfectly under the seat high above the master cylinder. But due to the gas tank I have to find another higher ground.

I forgot to mention I can reach through the rear wheel well and easily switch it on and off. Switch the ground.....

Thanks Tom, you always post the best photos!

I know this may be silly but, Does your coil box have a properly fitted lid? I had one that someone had removed the hold down fingers in the middle section it would run fine until you hit a bump. then you would have to remove the lid and push the center 2 coils back down.....

Check this out..

It's not really hard..

Cap

This is the future. There has been at least one other “model t collection” auction recently where entire shelves and bins of parts were sold for a few bucks. You can’t be for “keeping the hobby alive” and also care about getting the money out of a part you paid top dollar for 40 years ago. Times are changing.

The small spaces between commutator segments can become packed with material from the brushes which can allow current to leak from one segment to another instead of passing through the armature windings and energizing the motor. Old oil and gum can interfere with brush function too. The narrow spaces between the commutator segments can be cleaned...

It sounds like you have covered the bases and given the car a good shakedown. It looks like a general overhaul is the next step for the powerplant. Vlaves and oil burning aside, and while not an absolute necessity, a good mag is a good thing to have. I like having the option of using the starter, or starting on the spark , or hand cranking on...

I just remembered that I have 2 journeyman and 2 apprentice electricians coming to dinner on Thursday, seems like a good time to use them.

David,

If 3084 survived into the 1950s as a running fairly original car -- it most likely is still around barring some major disaster such as a garage fire etc. An early May 1909 car would have been very disirable then as well as now.

Note if the only thing with the 3084 number on it was a reproduction ID plate and the car was actaully a put...

To add to Chris Barkers comment about the Rolls Royce getting all the credit. I like this little article on the RR and the T.

John, Any relativity to the short & your inability to test your non-working coils? That smoking wire may have caused an open in the smaller yellow battery voltage feed wire to the junction block on the firewall. That feed wire starts at the hot side of the foot starter switch. As Ford never provided any fuse protection on a Model T that is an...

Rich, you are right about the way the breeders are buggering up breeds for showing. They put so much slope in the backlines of German shepherds the poor dogs developed deformed spines. I really hate the way they are fining down the labradors. You rarely see a big, strong, barrel chested labrador these days. Even the guide dogs are becoming...

I'm pretty sure that's a 1930-31 Ford AA. The wheels don't look quite right, but they could be later wheels.

Thank You!!

Thanks for all the reply’s. Made one from a “real” coat hanger. Looks great and is a bit sturdier than the bought ones….

Steve's idea is great & loosely based on a rim removal wrench illustrated in the Ford Service Bulletins - simple blacksmithing involved without the need for a hinge. I've had good results with the headlight off the car on a piece of rubber belting on the floor so I could use my weight to force the rim down then twist.

Thanks for that information. They are on the rear of a roadster of mine. I’m really thinking about removing them but I was just curious how they fit together. Sort of like to take them apart and see how they function. They look to be a sturdy design but I would never run them on the front. As with any vehicle out there modifications to the front...

I also have a picture of the dealership where it was sold.

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— Ammeter checked out as accurate enough (original, not repro),

— Entire brush plate rotated to bring charge rate to zero,

— Third brush adjusted to max 5-amp charge, and

— Lessons learned.

Thanks to all who contributed — much appreciated!

Didn’t like this engine.

Bob,

Hard to hear about the quality on those parts. I replaced those on my machine, hope they last.

Let this be a lesson. Its nice to have parts available, but some are substandard. Trust no repop part blindly.
Verify. This particular part is usable after you fix it. A 1/2 a good part IS better than no part.

Take it to a good welding shop.

Nearly 60 years ago I worked in a tool welding shop, where I learned how to stick weld aluminum. Later, the shop used tig to weld aluminum.
Now just stick welding steel is about all I can handle.
Art Mirtes

Very nice job. As a retired Boilermaker welder I understand the amount of grinding and polishing it takes to smooth out the weld zones. When I worked at the Nuclear power houses we had to make all our welds look like that. It's hard to see in the picture, but it appears you added a 1/4 turn twist to the lower header support. Little details like...

What a fascinating picture. The model T tourer front and centre has a cowl like nothing I have ever seen. The brass T following looks like a wide track car! And the smart looking roadster on the right is REALLY neat! All three are a mystery to me. And this was taken at Glenelg, a popular seaside destination in Adelaide, home to one of the Haigh's...

Apart from the roll-up centre section of the back of the top, that car could well be a twin to my first real T model, a 1922 standard Duncan and Fraser tourer. Note the canvas top, the full length wooden hood bows fixed to a flat iron one man mechanism. By 1923 the tops were fitted with socket type bows.
Allan from down under.

Bluebird is a 23-4 Duncan and Fraser roadster. Prior to this, the top of the cowl was straight under the windscreen. In 1925 the bottom windscreen frame was curved to match the cowl. If the tow car with the plane in tow is the same car, they have by then modified the windscreen.

A later method to launch gliders at Gawler aerodrome used a power...

I forgot to mention the two wooden boxes being utilised as axle supports. These are most likely fuel can boxes. Fuel delivered to country areas was packed in square, four gallon cans, and two such cans were packed into these boxes for transport. The boxes these days are highly collectable, some rarer ones bringing prices in the hundreds of...

I know I didn't get it !!!!

Allan from down under.

Major machine shops used them here in Australia as well, I can remember them as far back as the late 60's.

You are welcome.

Hasslers, most H&D type (made by many different companies!), and Float-a-Fords , are generally fine both front and rear.
But the ones that hang the Ford's front spring from a coil spring held up above from the axle? On the front end? NEVER!

Steve,

Your tank is a bit different than the one on our 11 touring, but here are the dimensions of where the bracket that holds the tank are on the driver's side running board:

Well, I whipped one out real quick on my lathe out of 4140 preheat treated material. We’ll see how it goes. AFB24E19-4F34-47F9-8B5B-7E6975419A9E.jpeg

I used the Y-Block tappets in my Model N engine rebuild. Just ground the tops down till the cup was gone.

Yep
A western or something

Used to be that new topics that appear in the forum that I HAVE NOT read would appear in the color RED? I am presently switching from Safari to Google Chrome, and now the unread topic are all black. How do I get my new unread topics in the forum to appear in red again???

I think it thinks you are new to the forums. I went back to the day I...

John C. If you still have your old ammeter and you trust the readings it provides, wire it in series with the new meter you are trying to sort out. Connected in series both meters will give identical current readings, tho the' Charge/Discharge' indication will be reversed if the polarity is incorrect. If you distrust both meters, proceed as...

Thanks for posting this.
I see a few items I could use. 😁

Carpet stretcher

Thank you very much.

This door lock doesn't appear to be a real problem. The most problem is getting it out of the door without damaging the inner coverage.

Btw:
My car's inner body coverage looks like some kind of cardboard (similar to material of very old suitcase) covered by some kind of thin textile. The borders are covered by a U-shaped...

My '26 came with a water pump - since discarded.
But I still have the horn hung from the rear of the bonnet (hood) rod via a home-made bracket.

Convenient and looks like it belongs there.

Sorry I couldn’t resist, my latest Mercury project! A 67 and I know not T related! 693B8863-6979-4737-87A1-393E64026E82.jpeg 6C70DE7F-F80C-421F-A590-7A7420A69D69.jpeg

It's a Late 26 Coupe.
Here are somepictures

Sold for £33,750 Inc premium. I didn't go to view, would have liked to know if the frame was 1909. Still think the new owner might have trouble getting a UK registration. The more genuine 1912 seems unsold.

I’ve never been real fussy with the Float Level and usually set it level when the Carby is held upside down.
Never use force to close the needle onto the seat. I’ve seen Blokes push the float upwards to bend the tag to achieve a level setting. This has the potential to damage a standard needle and seat and wreck the Viton tipped upgraded Valve....

Found another similarity pointing to Dodge. There was one other image I can across, cant' find it now, that showed the mid section cross member of the chassis as a match to?

Well now, that is just Devine! :lol:

My 1930 Plymouth has Depress Beam headlights but the logo is stamped on the lamp body, not the bezel.

Because all the roads to where it is going have a 70 mph speed limit and there is a loose magnet keeper bouncing around in the hogshead……😊

I trailered it 5 days ago at 60mph riding backwards on the trailer and everything went just fine.

Here is what was found when opened up.

Also none of the brass magnet screws had been peened after...

After reading about a magnet being ground up when it fell into the transmission, I took mine out. I never seen any metal filings when I had it in the transmission.

I carry a spare resistor and a spare module. You never know when you'll need one or the other, but you WILL need them! The starter solenoid is not reliable, either. It's a great truck, but the electrical stuff is of almost English quality.