MTFCA Forum

If you have a coilbox, all you need is available from the vendors, but I would go to one of the coil rebuilders for coils rather than buy new ones.

There are alternative timers available, mechanical ones like roller or Anderson flapper style, and electronic ones. Your choice, your expense.

Others will have other ideas.

Allan from down under.

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Here is one brand

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After thinking a bit more I see one of the notches is the slot for the shaft that turns the wick up and down. In that case one of the tangs should be visible under that shaft when they are correctly aligned.
I'm glad you took the safe side. Too many of these fonts have been damaged and are missing. I believe prying on them was that culprit.
Best...

Bought some magazine subscriptions from my young niece who was selling them for school. The bloody buggers substituted Road and Track for Popular Mechanics. Damn waste of trees usually. Full of cars I’ll probably never even see in real life and couldn’t afford the insurance anyway. Finally this article was in the last issue and was the first item...

Spokes? A little Formbey's will fix 'em right up!

Ok got it
Thanks

Thanks guys, you have found some info that I had not found and the Attention Ford Owners ad has given me some food for thought. I have a project in mind that I will detail in a separate post.

Paul

Better yet these: At left are from the instructions that came with my '15 wood kit. At right a drawing from a set of '15-'22 plans. Both Roaster but same as touring.
15Instrc.jpg
Hope it makes enough sense to help.
Rich

Yes, thank you Dan.

My wife and I went to see the museum 2 weeks ago. We enjoyed it a lot. We spent two nights in Richmond and saw many of the sights besides the museum. The housing architecture is interesting and old timy. The town was very prosperous in the late 18 to early 1900s and many factory buildings and mansions remain.
First time I had seen a 2 pedal 2lever...

We made it to Lansing about 5 pm. The model F ran great. I think about 4 cars ended up on the trouble trailer . Good weather. It’s 54 out now, it will be a cool start. Plan on leaving around 7:30. When it’s light enough.

Machinery grey what my grand dad called it or battleship grey

you might get more help posting on the general forum, this section is for questions about the site, not cars.

By design at that time, I say no but the lifters do rotate some but only because nothing is completely machined to 0

Nice Issue. WELL worth the wait!!!

Thanks George. I think the world would be a poorer place without Mr Jelf to keep us on the straight and narrow path. He’s a mine of information and tells us straight!

That is a very practical solution. The '23 has a screen in the breather, I wonder if this one does? Another item to check!

Thanks for the suggestion!

Paul

What a guy Walt was. So many magical things.
Thanks for the details of this.
Rich

I am going to try and use flywheel.
I was talking about junking the ring gear.

Dan,

??????

Customer brought this to me to rebuild, but looks like he will need a flywheel.

A starter solenoid is probably better for the starter, since it assure a single, positive engagement of the contacts. The solenoid arrangement was used with great success with the Bendix-type starter drive for many decades. The solenoid can be activated by the original foot switch or by a button-type switch mounted most anywhere, or a modern...

Mr. Jelf doesn't Break Down. He just pauses to make an adjustment. It is impossible for him to stop moving. :lol: :lol:

Tom, you need two things, a wheel true and spokes in the wheels on which you can screw/unscrew the nipples. If you can loosen the nipples on the spokes, you may be able to true the wheels. Otherwise you are stuck with what you have.

My wheel true is a deep U shaped stand into which the wheels are fitted. I have a spare front T spindle and short...

Glad to hear Steve is on his way. He should be able to get WIFI from the parking lot. Looking forward to seeing him again.

Actually yes it would. Good idea. I of all people shoulda thought of that too...but its been decades since I last owned a boat!

My local glass shop is weird about doing auto glass. We don’t do auto glass. But they will do safety glass. Uh ok.

You need to go to an automotive glass shop, like maybe Safelite. They have several locations serving Houston. Safety glass and auto glass are NOT the same thing.

Your Jelf updates are great, but please just add to an exisiting post rather than making a new posting every time. Gets confusing and hard to follow!

Yes, the tank should hold water. The byproduct that will end up in this tank is calcium hydroxide. It is quite corrosive, and you’ll want to wash and air out the generator and internal parts well after use. I used POR-15 on the inside of the generator, which has held up well. I also line the lower basket with a crock pot liner, which makes cleanup...

It may not be 100% Stynoski correct, but boy is that a sweet little pickup !

There are adapters t connect the flex pipe to the horn. You can find them on

They look like the adapter in the lower right of Tim's photo.

Had a closer look at the latching mechanism, that is an ingenious piece of work and realy well reproduced, great piece !

Adam is correct. Wheels should turn freely with brake off. The position of the hand brake lever when all the way forward, the pins should go in without forcing or bending the rod. This can be done by adjusting the clevis either tighter or looser. When it is correct, the lever should not move when you push in the low pedal. If the lever goes...

The radiator pads are thick. I'm sure Lang's probably has the correct thickness. I got mine from Regan when he was still in business.

We had three 10 cylinder engines on the last submarine I was on, the USS Harder, SS568. Just after I got off of it, the Navy sold it to Italy.

:D :D :D :D

Rollag (pronounced roll-log) is awfully cool. Hugantic if you will. Model T's are frequent. Mine too at one time.
Thank you Scott. That means the world to me. Some of our friends a bit south tend to think thrashing.
Back in the day I could've given a good thrashing to someone Steve. ;)
Dallas, you had bundles in your truck? Cool!
Jeff, make...

Beautiful automobiles Bob!
That was funny Mike! You would be the lone dissenter! :lol:
Michael has been kind enough to offer to drag me out from under my rock and down to your place for a swap meet and I resisted.
I shouldn't have.
That '11 and your other originals are mind-bending! So many details to drool over.
Mike, when I see you next ;) ,...

Andrew

I just looked at your thread from last year...your results are fabulous! You've really put together a nice car...I remember the pix from when you first got it. Am envious of your time with your dad...my dad and I are separated by an entire country and would love to do such a job with him if it was possible

Scott, thank you for your kind...

Noah Stutzman made a wood wheel for me for a fat man wheel I already had with a bad rim. Red oak. Great job and very reasonable. It took him a while but was well worth the wait!

John Regan has, on several occasions, referenced a letter he found at the Ford Archives which was sent to the dealers in 1912 stating that. I have a thread trying to find a copy of that letter on the forum at this time. Check it out.

After looking and thinking about this timer/distributor cap for a few days and reviewing PeterN's patent app papers and the drawing, I have come to the following conculsion. It is definitely a high tension distributor cap and not a low tension timer. The patent application paper refers to the open window that has access to the points. Also...

I discovered that there is a little ridge near the bottom of the tool that makes it not flop around on a vise. That helped a lot. Some of the rivets went on better than others. I have one completed. I did only a few rivets at a time to make sure the holes aligned. I marked about 3 holes at a time and drilled them then riveted 2 leaving one free so...

I heated it cooled it 3 times before bending with a MAPP gas torch. I never saw it turn red. I just got it 'real hot'. I notched it once, bent the two parts together until they kissed then notched again to get to 90 degrees.

Josh

this is your second post about pretty much the same problem as the other post, except this time you are leaving out some critical details...like the fact that the car ran fine before hitting a huge bump.

1. Post a picture of your carb so that all of the guessers will know what carb you have
2. Purchase the MTFCA carb manual to see how to...

Be sure there is nothing in it which conducts electricity. Some things such as graphite will cause problems with the magneto.
Norm.

The haze is from minute scratches. I am thinking 1200 grit wet sanding followed by toothpaste?

Speedytinc, thanks. I’ll give it another try and pull the left end of the band as far back as I can. Perhaps there’s magic there. A Labor Day activity.

John

I was polishing an antique mirror with a buffer and was caught and pulled into the wheel. Stopped a 3/4 HP Baldor motor. Needless to say I still have the finger joint In a Jar. Lesson Learned.

Good news. The bolts holding the fender bracket screw into a threaded section attached to the inside of the body. See attached photo. Sorry had to rotate pix to get it to attach 20210904_145111.jpg

He is talking about the lever at the rear end as I read it, not the lever in the cab. But correct if for lever in the cab re the Ruckstell.

Here is the folding seat I have.
I think it’s for a Centerdoor, what say you ?

It's similar to my Centerdoor passenger seat, but the bottom hardware is a tiny bit different.

1914 to about 1927, carb was on left side mounted to engine with short elbow.

It is my understanding the the dimensions in the glass books will be too large to fit with the modern glass tracks such as the ones from Mac's, etc.
The new set of glass I just had cut, we fitted a sheet of fine plywood, and trimmed it until it would move smoothly down the glass tracks in the door.
The plan is to try the fit of them, and then...

See you Saturday. Hopefully I will have two other generations in tow.

I have one of these puppies. Would anyone be interested ? It is a pricey piece. I bought a bed years ago and it came with it.the guy jokingly said I bought the mount the bed just came with it. IMG_20210903_144903462.jpg IMG_20210903_144832868.jpg IMG_20210903_144804925.jpg IMG_20210903_144750397.jpg

Steve. Are You texting while driving ? Thought You were on the way to OCF

You get an A+ for cleverness, but if you don't have a stock T cam, that was quite an exercise in futility. A new cam has been designed for a VERY small pushrod gap and now that you have a new cam and wide open clearances (as listed in the manual), you've gained a noisy engine and have probably de-tuned the cam.

At least your valves will run...

I agree Dave, interesting how some call them Muckleheads , and yet others, like in my parts, we call 'em Muffleheads . Either way, they're extremely annoying.

Belt on px side. Oil pump in gererator hole for pressure mains. AC compressor on Px side and alternator mounted on top of compressor. All riven with one serpentine belt. Works great!

I'd love to see a pic of that install!..

Wife wants AC in her T (yet to be purchased).. I'd like to also see the condenser mount..

Cap

Like you say it all works. Depends on the application.. The lower the grit the harder it is to turn. When doing mains or rods, I use medium grit and don't bolt things down too tight at first. Follow the directions and be sure to add oil frequently. A couple applications doesn't hurt. Smiley face.

OK, I see the 3 v. 4 hole phenom. However, why are they different heights and the diameter of tubes are different sizes?

Just curious!

Spoken for, Thanks

It looks like the bridge of #4 coil was hitting the coil box cover. It’s an old aftermarket one. I could move the lid around a little and recreate the short.

Silly little things that drive you nuts. Guess it’s part of the excitement of the hobby. :D

I would expect to see improved economy and more consistent response to the driver's throttle, carburetor adjustment, and spark timing inputs... in short, a smoother, sweeter-running engine. Torsional vibration would likely be reduced in both bandwidth and intensity.

Thank you glenn

I'll second that Steve. I use very light springs on the alloy hood on my 1912 van. It do not require much clamping force to hold a hood down.

Allan from down under.

I had a similar problem on my '25. I wanted to use the early design switch that is held together with two screws. When installed correctly in the car, it wouldn't quite reach through the floor. I put in a later design which has four tabs. I'll bet if I tried to bend those tabs they might break off? At any rate I found a NORS switch, which has been...

Thanks Scott, Aircraft Spruce has been one of my regular suppliers for years. I have a fuel valve and sediment bulb that have gotten so hard to turn that even pliers are having a tough time getting the job done.

Paul

Can't help on welding cracks in zinc, as fumes from zinc are very dangerous to your health.

On mine, just left the few bumps and cracks as 'patina'. The repro parts in aluminum don't look good to me at all. So keep your originals original.

Just buffed the surfaces of the plates on the buffing wheel, then a coat of wax, provided a nice sheen that...

THANK YOU MARK, A HAIR DRYER , MY WIFE HAS A GOOD ONE, IF SHE LETS ME USE IT,I KNOW WHAT YOU MEAN THE WOOD SWELLS, I HAVE A BOILER IN THE BASEMENT AND IT KEEPS THEM HI AND DRY, HAVE A SUPER DAY.

Thanks for posting this.

Allan
It's ironic isn't it , that the good stuff we used to manufacture in Oz no longer exists and we somehow have come to accept that second rate throwaway is the norm.

Looks like you nailed it Rich. ;)

Did anyone on the Forum buy one of the tractor attachments at the Crosby Mt auction? Glenn

water lye corn starch .I am not pc

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I got my check in package today also. Car # 220, Parking lot A, orange sticker for being in the Pass in Review, pick up materials at 6:30 PM on Friday Evening.

Keith

Got it... 5 it is.

David, I take your point about the thread starting somewhat deeper in the lug nuts. My concern with the A model nuts was that the length of thread in the nuts would not be as long as a T nut, and so it may bottom out on the stud before engaging on the hub centre.

Allan from down under.