MTFCA Forum

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Mark

just so you know, a cut-out is a cut out. A voltage regulator is a voltage regulator. The VR was a very popular product as it detected when the battery needed a charge and when it did not, thus keeping the battery from abuse at the speeds we drive.

A diode works like a cut-out but like a cut-out is not smart enough to quit pouring the coal...

The ‘15 Ts did not have a dimmer switch, and therefore no place for the dimming component discussed here. The magneto lights were just on or off, however, they are dimmer at idle and get brighter as the engine RPM increase.

Eric

You have a very rare car there.

I’ve been a machinist and to die maker for over 30 years. Any time that I’ve ever made a key from scratch it was supposed to be .001 or so oversize. That is so the mechanics in the field could fit the key to the keyway. Most often the keyway is around .001 under what we would call a normal size. Doesn’t matter if it’s inch or metric. It’s actually...

Jerry, yep you're right about the brushes. Thankfully they're still in production. I have two more on the way just because !!

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I am a fan for small parts also.

As was posted, the worm drive TT rearend is not hard to move, IF it has an auxiliary transmission with a neutral and /or the TT transmission is adjusted correctly. I have seen it said on this forum in the past and elsewhere, that the TT rear will NOT move without sliding the tires. Think about it, if that was the case, everytime the stock...

Just to go a small step further that no one covered, straight up and down (vertical) with the stick is direct drive, forward with the stick is low and back with the stick is overdrive. Shifting from one gear to another as you're driving along, decelerate a bit depress the clutch and move the stick.

Ed aka #4

Thank you all for your help.
Mark

Spar varnish is a great choice and it is the best, period correct clear finish to use for this application. Shellac is also period correct, but, while it leaves a beautiful dark amber finish, it does not hold up well to the weather, as it has a tendency to turn white when it gets wet. Urethane or epoxy are the best weather resistant clear...

I finally located my stash of ignition switches, both pin and tab types, all using the bent tab type contacts. What is interesting is how there are several different locations of the dimple back contacts. I wonder if the were changes due to cost or other location changes for other reasons? Interesting!

Kerry is right...that IS asbestos. We had a bunch of those in the lab, usually used to hold ball or erlemeyer flasks, etc. over a bunsen burner.

How (or is it) bonded metallically to the frame or is it isolated? Seems like a risk of static discharge without an electrical/mechanical bond to the car's frame.

It would be grounded through the supply pipe that feeds the carb. If worried about grounding and using rubber connections, you could mount a ground between the seat frame and floor...

I may have old information here but I remember Jim Gunn telling me not to install wood bands without removing the hogs head. Do not attempt to install wood band through the inspection cover.

I had an 8N Ford tractor that ran like new for about half an hour or so, then it would begin to miss intermittently. After much fiddling, I found that it was the coil.

Here are photos of my Coupelets. I believe most forum users have seen photos of these cars. The 1915 Coupelet just won the Stynoski Award, and I just recently completed the restoration of the 1916 Coupelet. The 1917 Coupelet is possibly the rarest car of the three, with only six known examples of this body style known to exist today. The 1917...

A little over 24h left…..

Great looking car. 90% of the time I would drive it with the top down, but it does pbotograoh very very well with the top up. But there's nothing better than touring top down with a clear view all around!

Thanks for all of your replies and suggestions. I may experiment with these different ones. Thanks again.

Steve( RajoRacer ) I got your e mail but for some unknown reason I could not reply. I hope you find this, I got the rings from McMaster -Carr. The part number was 226 BUNA 70. I had to buy 100 of them so send me your mailing address and I will send you out a few. Will C

Being curious, this morning I Googled this type of tester. The cheapest one I found of this vintage was priced at $125, and it was pretty rough. Some in better shape were $350 and $400. :o

180 to 200 is fine. Running cooler than 180F invites sludging of the crankcase and carbon deposition in the combustion chamber. A well-worn engine may operate a little better running around 180. A tight engine in good tune would probably rather run about 190-200F, and could be expected to stay cleaner and provide better fuel economy at the higher...

Bob is in Commack. He has a 1915 touring. There are some other T guys farther east.

The the many wagon and wheel work places on-line.

This one is Hansen Wheel and Wagon Works.

www.hansenwheel.com

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It is a simple matter to bend the forging with the bolt out towards the ramp a bit. One crescent wrench across the arm, another across the first wrench to work as the turning lever. Inserting the bolt head down will help, providing a wider contact on the cam.

Allan from down under.

Have a look in your coilbox. Make sure all 4 coils are pushed down to the bottom. One or two might have been pushed up a bit by the jolt. The resultant misfire could be causing your smoky exhaust issue.

I once drove across a railroad crossing that had the middle filler piece missing, between the rails. I got airborne! As I landed, the hood flew...

Thank y'all, big help. I managed to figure out the rest of it.

I appreciate the replies, thank you.

Interesting approach Steve. Perhaps I’ll try the same.

Thanks for all the input. I think I've got it now. Just trying to be original where I can. :D

If I owned that vehicle today, I'd be very pleased to have an opportunity to own that manual.

Pictures of custom tooling

Sorry, I didn’t take any pictures and the car isn’t here. I just put the hub in the lathe and scribed a line so the bolt circle stayed concentric. I used 1/4-20 slotted screws and made the standoffs long enough to clear the wheel. Basically the same as a wood wheel.

Andy

I found it on my laptop with an obsolete OS. Mail on this desktop stinks. :D

Thanks for the replies, when I get a chance I will give that a try

I agree with Jeff, the yellow tape is for gas applications. (when I say gas, I’m not referring to Petrol!)
Alan in Western Australia

Inductive crossfire is unlikely, but I suppose it could happen. I would arrange the plug wires so that they were at least an inch away from one another or anything else. If the car is a late type with throttle linkage above the cylinder head, be sure that the throttle linkage does not come very near or into contact with a plug wire at any point in...

The reason I was needing this info was because I’m attempting to recreate a Model T in a video game Called LittleBigPlanet 3, though I don’t know if you’re aware of that game. I’m just trying to make it as accurate as I can make it so I’m needing this info to assistant me with that.

Now thats the reason I go to these events Ken.

Here is a cross section view of the NH showing the inside and necessary float adjustments. As the bowl fills, the rising float causes the needle valve to close, stopping the flow of gas into the bowl and preventing the gas from overflowing into the carburetor vent tubes. Of course when the car is running the needle valve is constantly opening and...

Check to make sure every nut and bolt is tight.

So a TT made between Jan-July 1925 would have been a 1924 model year truck.
No. The 1924 model year would be August 1923 through July 1924. The 1925 model year is August 1924 through July 1925. The model year usually comes four months before the calendar year, not behind it. This November 1925 truck is a 1926 model. That's why it has the 1926...

Don't have a clear photo, but D and F are a sandwich that goes up into the subframe rail. Provides support for the longer bolt that goes from the turtle deck into the frame. Enlarge the link given and the captions provide more info on placing D.

Here's a runabout with original blocks, but doesn't show the rear blocks that go deep into the frame...

Tire pressures recommended by Ford on the T cars and TT trucks, for the 21 balloon tires.

Text above the chart reads to be safe and add 2 or 3 more psi ;)

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I'll second what Trent said. You should be able to line up the pin to the holes and drive it out with a punch. I've never needed to drill the pin out on an NRS or a T.

Dave Johnson has set up shop in Kingston.
He is working again.

B4D579F6-CDB8-4BFE-8D97-501B656B1D84.jpeg After getting got out after dark one ride I added the led strip. Running light and brake light. It’s attached with wing nuts and a three prong plug. Can be removed in less then a minute

I was there for the first one.

I had the first purchase on the grounds from Kim Dobbins
on late Thursday afternoon.

Bill and Jim ( who started this ) are my friends and what they accomplished on short notice was OUTSTANDING 👍

I interviewed them both awhile back about this started:

@

FJ

Brian,
If you have any junk axle housings the tube works good for the spacers.
Craig. modern pinion.jpg

Yes. This one was has the truck bed kit on it. So when the back end was cut off there is no where for the tank to go.

I always wondered why they made em flat on top- so you can turn them over and work on the bottom!

In 1926, Ford offered a narrow drum with shoes. It is in the service bulletins.

I picked snot engine green accidentally on purpose. Although I wanted the darker forest green, the store only had this horrible shade when I needed paint.
Here are some pics of my '26 speedster project. 20201009_125556.jpg

Fantastic.

My 1926 Franklin 11-A Rumbleseat Coupe has Linderman machine joints all over it.
I am lucky enough to have most of the blueprints for the car as I have worked on it, and many parts are designed to be made from
Linderman Machine Stock

You are correct. If it was too small to be put through the Linderman machine, then it either went into the...

For the side that goes on too far there are cone shaped axle shims available to space it out.

Adapters listed on ebay

I have been running them with 19 A wheels for 10+ years on a car that sees a lot of rough roads with no issues.

they attach to two standards that look similar to the two in the middle, but are missing

Is there anyway to work around that?

There is a wide variety of styles in this accessory. Actually the unit pictured attaches to the fenders on both ends. I have one like it. Used it on a camping trip recently to Death Valley. It allows full use of the...

its truly astonishing the amount of early information that's still out there, each faze of automotive advancement through the years is someones favorite subject, and every one is thirsting to gather all one can to to further there knowledge on this subject- there is something about being able to take a object that was made one way take it apart...

Not sure if these color combinations would not be used on 1926/1927 Improved Ford Runabouts. Again these are sales brochure artist renderings. NOTE the ad for the Runabout states says that the 1926 Runabout available in Blue or Brown (Black?)
Pulled these pictures from a INTERNET search - obviously there is a sales brochure showing combinations...

I opened the post from TRDxB2 and in part of it showed the restoration of a 1968 Rolls Royce. What a great story from junkyard to almost completed car over a 2 year period. We did the same thing with a 1969 4 door over 20 year plan. Thanks for posting it was great to see. Wish we had seen it in early 90's as it may have changed how we did our...

Added it to a mini chopper I built for my son long time ago (when the chopper motorcycle was the big thing) Enjoy

If you did that, there is no doubt that it can be done to a T. And if they added Oxygen for the climb to the top of Abra el Acay in the province Salta, Argentina, just 16,000 ft above sea level then ........
The ride up
The Oxygen...

looks good!

Stutzman! No question about it. ;)

Ken Buhler, did you ever figure out how to post the pictures? I would really like to see what you did.

The key is in the fitting!!
It is critical that they are clamping securely without applying ANY bending forces to the crank!!

If you have the board and hinges- that is bonus, as they seem to be gone most of the time. The board and hinges are for the tool box lid under the seat.

Thank you - it is, of course, obvious! But, electrickery always catches me out!!

The bracket in the back of a 100 is the same as the factory Ford special. Just mount it in the same place. Of course, if you don't have the bracket on your speedometer, or mounting plate, you will have to find one.

Steve: Snyders has a low profile 12 volt bulb, but is a staggered pin like I mentioned above. BUT, you have to find a late style Ford made license plate bracket like I mentioned above. You will need a two prong retractable contact plug to use it. I have one on my pickup, and you've seen it. Just looking at it, you can't tell the difference. If you...

As I under stand Ford started useing lock washers in the early 20's. I try to use grade 5 & 8 bolds & nuts every chance I get for structual application if the heads are visable you can turn or grind them off. The question is how many times have the original bolts been tightened. I never reuse rod bolts replacements are not that expensive. Split...

Yup, it's the slotted kind and I have the old style aluminum cover. What was on the car. Someone thought the new bands were a good idea at the time. I'll just flip them around. Not with the car at the moment but will surely check the cams next in there.

That's probable - never had one to play with.

AM I THE ONLY ONE TO REMEMBER THE LIFE OF RILEY ? WHAT A REVOLTING DEVELOPMENT THIS IS, WATCHED THAT SHOW MANY TIMES ONE THAT WAS WORTH IT.

I find many workers' clothing to be very interesting... following 02:15 the top-fitters are even wearing ties and suit jackets!

I can't take credit for this adaptation. Done by Bruce Compton on this 1925 coupe I bought from him a few months ago. A portion of running board cut down to make a step plate. Uses a 1954 Lincoln power seat motor. Probably any 6 volt power seat motor would do the job, just as long as it is clutched so as not to burn it out when the travel limits...

Don't know that answer, wonder what 3 pieces you describe.

The common above axle Radius Rods '09-'19... (2733 (factory # 263)... seen are made with a pair of tubing arms, welded or brazed to the forgings at the ball, and the pair of forgings for the threaded ends that go into the end of the tubes. 3 forgings are used.

wishbone forgings...

Believe it or not, simply driving INTO a gentle breeze will make the car run cooler than having a tailwind.

I could concoct a story regarding spark strength and perhaps more optimum timing setting on today's drive, but that would be a bunch of speculative hooey. I think you just had a nice day for a drive and it is a WHOLE lot better when the car...

Yes, it says Body BUDY Co on the clamp.
It does seem to fit the driveshaft spool.
It would hit the floor pan underneath the rear seat.
I don’t think it would fit between the spring and the axle tube Tim.
Definitely no room for it on the front either.

This was done without charge. I was helping another member install new axle shafts. We found the situation as we disassembled the Ruckstell. He is fully aware of what he has and what it would take to fix it back to Ford standards. If he chooses to do so in the future, it is entirely up to him. We found no wear problems with the shafts where they...

I have a mostly original 1922 touring with starter and therefore it does not have oil cowl lamps.
However for safety reasons, I wish to install oil lamps (which I got from Mark Osterman) and electrify them for turn signals.
I am looking for the cowl light brackets for side cowl lamps.
My windshield is straight up and down, and is now safety...

There are branded products, such as HEET, sold for the purpose of getting water out of fuel systems while preventing cold weather freeze ups. I believe that HEET consists of isopropyl alcohol. In theory, fresh, anhydrous gasohol would be able to remove small amounts of moisture from a fuel system and prevent fuel line freeze up.

HEET® brand...

That does it for now. I think it's easy to see why the original design is so much simpler that what is available now. There are a few of us who are fortunate enough to have these brakes. Just last year, I really lucked out and was able to purchase an original never used set of these brakes.

Pat, I'm not sure if the coil secondary voltage actually ever reaches 39.6kV, the primary voltage spike only lasts for a few nanoseconds as spark initiates. I believe the longer duration secondary voltage could reach a peak voltage of 200V x 80 = 16kV that lasts for 10s of microseconds during the beginning of the spark Burn interval.

John, Thanks...

After extensive research, I am drawing up another hub that will support the model A wheel at both places and I will just machine two new ones out of steel that use T bearings. It will basically be a T hub with an A bolt pattern with no adapter plates. Thank you for all of the responses.

Sounds like a good approach.

1924 Buick.

Thanks very much everyone. As usual, the knowledge among hobbyists on this forum is outstanding. I am slowly sorting through the Model T parts that I have accumulated over the past 50+ years. My 27 Touring has been complete for quite a while and it's time to get rid of some of the surplus stuff , especially those items that are not appropriate for...