MTFCA Forum

Bump for another look

Everyone seemed to have a good time. Not sure why some pictures are turned and other upright.

Never have driven through a diverging diamond but here we have 2 lane traffic circles that you can legally exit to the right from the inside lane. A lot of summer tourism drivers aren’t aware of this. I refuse to pull my trailer through these circles.

The vasoline looking product will NOT restore the blackness of the leather. I used Harley Davidson black leather dye for seats. After you dye the leather and it is dry then use the conditioner. bobt

Jonah

In my new Berg's radiator there is a metal plate on top of the tubes. I do not know the purpose of this plate, nor do I know how high it is placed above the tubes. Maybe it is just a baffle to settle the fluid down. If I fill the radiator with 1 inch of antifreeze above this plate, I know there is too much in there. I check this with a...

I may have a pair or there may be a pair in a collection I'm selling off, I'll let you know. Kim

Allan

The one on left is early style E & J #6, used on ‘15 couplet, one on right is typical E & J #8.

I'm glad Tim came and had a good time. That was the intent and most people seemed to enjoy themselves. I do have a request....if you were on the tour and took a photo of a Model T in front of the Ford cottage, the resort association would like a copy of it. Please contact me and we'll make arrangements.

We had 40 people from other states and for...

Thanks, Rich

The key to using the second pump is the type of chuck you put on it. The pump has no check valve, and uses the valve in the tube stem to do that job. That means you have to use a chuck with no center pin, so it will allow the valve to close between strokes.

Here's mine. I suggest:

Trim the roof fabric so it ends behind the rail and is tacked in place.
Form the outer part of the rail to fit the contour of the body
Etch prime (for good paint adhesion because it's aluminium) and paint the outer rail. Satin black is good.
Screw the inner rail in its correct place - but then remove the screw near the aft...

If you need to have threads on the end why not use a piece of all thread or a cut off bolt and weld it on the end of the handle. That way you don't need to weld a square shaft and then turn it down to round and thread it.

Have you considered joining the NSW Model T Club? There might be someone in the club who has a 26/27 engine they could sell you.

I'm in the Parramatta area. I've got a 26 Tourer and a 24 Tudor you're welcome to have look at once the lockdown eases up.

Hi John,

Yes, absolutely considered joining the club - just waiting for this recent...

Thought the first one didn't take, will be careful! :D

THANK YOU ALLAN, I JUST COULD NOT REMEMBER ITS NAME, BUT READING WHAT FOLKS ARE HAVING FOR PROBLEM'S WITH IN TO DAYS WORLD IT BRINGS BACK MEMORIES OF WHAT WE USE TO DO YESTERDAY, I FIND OVER THE YEARS THINGS GET OVERLOOKED , AS THERE USE IS NO LONGER NEEDED, BUT IN DEALING WITH YESTERDAYS THINGS, THE OLD STILL WORKS. WHEN SOMEONE REMEMBERS HOW IT...

The TT needs to be filled all the way to the bottom of that rear plug. Leaving it lower like is appropriate for T car rear ends is not appropriate for the TT rear end. Also don’t overlook the importance of the seal at the back of the driveshaft tube...

Thanks - john

Ahhh! Thank you! Now it's clear. I misunderstood the direction that the fork moves.

Beautiful Coupelets…

I'd think putting the lever in neutral (with the clutch stuck) would have the car in high, and that forcefully rocking it back and forth would probably unstick the clutch. If not, 1. Check all linkage. 2. I would suggest getting the engine in running order, if it isn't already, then place the rear of the car on secure stands and start and run the...

They were recalled (Chevrolets), but a few are in private hands. The cooling fins were solid copper bar rings with cast iron poured over them. Since they did not inoculate as they poured the iron, the rings came loose in a short time in operation and cracked the cylinders. Interesting story from times past.

Hank

Neat wall hangers. I wonder if the washers will pass the drop test.
I test everyone I get for personal amusement. Maybe 1 in 50 pass. Then go in the trash.

What I am familiar with has a cast aluminum body with a round ball enlarged area @ the disk. The screw is to set the spring tension for the movement of the disk. It is actually designed to be an automatic choke. I think the ideal thing to do is to remove the auto choke feature disk.

Bingo! Thanks RV. Here is the ad on page 29
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FROM MTFCA posted 2013.
George John Drobnock on Sunday, April 07, 2013 - 09:35 am:

If the information on Beaudette bodies was presented before - sorry.

This may answer my own question about the manufacture of the 1922 Coupe Body. The number I found on the Coupe (B 21 3663) is very possibly a Briggs and not that of O. J. Beaudette. O. J....

A beautiful truck indeed!

Thanks Scott.

You had me with the 1st photo!
Thanks for the pics Tim.

Look like a perfect spot for a cup holder.

I should point out the ice cream maker was powered by a Model T. Today we’re at the tip of the Thumb, currently eating brats and pulled pork in the shadow of the Pte Aux Barques lighthouse. So far folks seem to be having a good time.

Thanks Tim! I neglected to point that out. Yep, good day today despite rain. Lics to follow in a new thread.

Your TLC certainly made her shine - she’s a beauty. Enjoy all the smiles and head turning she’ll cause.

So I was looking at the Lang's catalog and saw that the frames and Side supports are not chrome but the wing nuts and other parts are. Someone must have chromed my Side Supports and frame.

Thanks MWalker for the tip on bending the quadrant down. It worked great for me this morning. I had been putting off disassembly and adding heavier springs. This was much easier.
Rich

The third picture down shows a radiator. I seems to be the same type of tank.

Those sell for a minimum of $75

I probably need to open the carb and clean things out. Thanks for the tip on air passages.

The reason to use #1 is that it's easiest to reach and put your thumb on the hole to find compression when you pull the crank. :D

Jonah

I don't know if you're doing this, but for one thing, do not sit for any length of time with the timer retarded. When idling or waiting for a light or anything else, be sure the timer is advanced such that the engine has attained it's highest speed at idle. Some folks will throw the lever up and let the exhaust bark out the back while...

You may look your timing... it is often the responsable for overheating. Also be sure the fan properly work without sliding belt... Also be sure the fan blade are correctly oriented. Other point, flush your radiator as Jeff said. Last point to validate, you may have leaking intake cause overheating either. I'm saying all these elements because I...

When the Union Pacific Railway decided to restore a Big Boy locomotive, they originally chose an example that was on display in, if I remember correctly, Texas. That example was later abandoned due to the fact that the railroad bridges between Texas and the U.P. shops in Wyoming wouldn't bear the weight of a Big Boy.
Instead, the 4014 was chosen...

Thanks everyone!

Has anyone ever used these? How hard are they to install? How do they work? Thank you.

I run them in all my T's. They make for optimal band adjustment.
The current ones available were copied from ones I redesigned from the original design to add O=ring seals.
I sold a few sets to vendors. I think Chaffins still stocks my units. One of the...

These photos SO capture why I choose to live here. Point your T in any
direction and the road choices for awesome T driving are infinite.

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A twisted rod if run long enough will barrel the crank journal, a tell tail sign.

Hank,

Thanks. I'll call you.

John,

Thanks for the reply & info.

Dom

Re the cast iron one with side plate; Yes was really for TT, but can be used in a car. Do a search of MTFCA; Warford It is a little more involved than just bolting it in. When used in a car, you needed a different rear support then the truck, the frame depth was different.

Pay attention to what Keith says!

I have not read all the post about your overheating problem.
That said, I have one or two questions.
Have you removed the head?
If so, did you put the head gasket on right way?
Good luck, Dan.

The distance from the flat ( seat) board on the side of the bed would meen the passengers would have to have long legs to reach the floor. What an ineresting truck.

. . . and the radiator started blowing out a lot of steam through the overflow tube.

When that happens to me I tell people that it's a steam hybrid. :lol:

The answer to your second question is maybe, depending on what they are. For a few years I used HF magnetic trailer lights in order to have tail lights, not blinkers. I used welding rod hooks and rubber bungees to keep them from bouncing off the fenders. The last time I used them the rough road shook one of them to pieces. I'm currently in the...

Thank you all!

WOW. They say school started for the kids.
I should have paid more attention in the science class.
Guess what could be a simple question turns out to be a very deep subject.
Thank you all for the input.

I think they all sound different to some degree. They aren't musical instruments; they are alarm devices. Many of them emit a sound evocative of that emitted when a goat comes into contact with an electrified fence.

This one is not finished yet. Let's see If I can get the photo to import.

If Blockleys last 20% longer, or more, they are the better deal. At least that was the math a year ago. The exchange rate changes daily, so I don't know how the numbers work out now.

Thank you! That answers my question.

Well shoot. I replaced the spring on the pedal shaft and it solved the problem. A problem my mom had tried dealing with for a very long time when she had the car.

Now I see ! Thanks for the detail Allan. Much appreciated !!

I do It all the time. And have never had a problem. You can can even use your DC welding machine to jump a car.

My 1926 coupe will go 40, but after 35, the vibration and noise gets so bad, it feels like it’s coming apart. At 30 to 33, she runs smooth and quiet. Jim Patrick

IMO, 55 lbs/ft is very max. and could lead to stripped block threads.

Mfg. of Z head doesn’t recommend extreme tightening.

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If you remove just enough tacks to insert a new pad and you do one bow at a time, it should be possible. Definitely would take 2 people. The straps are the most important part for holding the top in place and you are not changing those.

Your fuel level is not correct. Fuel level needs to be raised to richen idle. When properly adjusted, the carb needs no tweeking, unless changing altitude. The float setting dimension is a starting point. Its a trial & error thing to get right.
The previous holly series has a top that is removed (3 & 2 screw)to visualize the proper fuel level in...

When in close quarters, such as pulling into a garage, or backing up, I put the lever in neutral . Otherwise, when starting out, I put my foot on the clutch pedal and hold it in neutral position as I release the lever all the way forward, then I press the clutch pedal down and hold it there to take off in low. As soon as I am rolling 6-10 mph, I...

I would check the soft plug in the driven plate, clean the square hole out add some rtv in there to stop the oil from coming out and wondering down the drive shaft tube, the early cars have no soft plug in them.

Good one Brian!
Love the humour!😀😂
Alan in Western Australia

I wish I could make it to the jamboree. Nice area and points of interest to visit. Two of our club (Firelands TIMELESS T's MTFC) members are set to go.
Art Mirtes

The first sentence in the original Stevens Instructions says to check the “hardness” of the axle with a file. If a file cuts it, proceed with the installation. If file does not cut it, aneal the axle with a torch. Says nothing about reharding the axle.
If you lack the instructions, email me an address and I will mail you a set. Dan

PS use LOTS...

Remember, fully one half of the drivers on the road are worse than average.

That wheel issue should be and is a very good cautionary experience for sure. I don’t take you post offensive by no means. I need to be careful and your guidance I much appreciated. Thank you.

With that out-of-the-way I have to admit I did not center the timing cover when I put the engine together. I knew better. However I don’t think I could...

B, Looks like a door sill plate. not T

On a closer look, the main leaf does not look like it belongs to the rest of the leaves. The two outboard bends are way more shallow than those on the tapered leaves. The wear mark you are seeing is most likely from an ordinary chopped leaf. There is one leaf missing on top. That one has just the main curve over the top of the pack. The rest look...

The windshield support rods on the two Ts in front look to me to be bowed out a bit suggesting rear folding windshields making them 1914 model year Fords. They all look fairly new as well. That would mean the photo would have been taken no earlier than late 1913.

Some drums are a bit beyond balancing by removing metal. If the casting is poorly centred at the time of manufacture, it may require so much material to be removed that the part is compromised, as it was in this case. The best answer is to find another drum. The new ones are much better balanced, being CNC machined.

Allan from down under.

As to the map: Be careful, gas tax by itself is meaningless. Massachusetts (for example) has a relatively low gas tax, but property taxes are high, and the Commonwealth has a state income tax with very few deductions or exemptions. Florida has a high fuel tax but no state income tax and moderate property taxes. You need to consider the whole...

Michael,
It does look like it is for a pocket door seeing the examples in the photo above.

But I was researching it and found the following with the same patent dates:
pic876.jpg
......

The picture you submitted is missing the roller. Its on the home page of this link
stearns.png

Judging by its’ heavy duty cast iron construction, I would...

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Mark

just so you know, a cut-out is a cut out. A voltage regulator is a voltage regulator. The VR was a very popular product as it detected when the battery needed a charge and when it did not, thus keeping the battery from abuse at the speeds we drive.

A diode works like a cut-out but like a cut-out is not smart enough to quit pouring the coal...

The ‘15 Ts did not have a dimmer switch, and therefore no place for the dimming component discussed here. The magneto lights were just on or off, however, they are dimmer at idle and get brighter as the engine RPM increase.

Eric

You have a very rare car there.

I’ve been a machinist and to die maker for over 30 years. Any time that I’ve ever made a key from scratch it was supposed to be .001 or so oversize. That is so the mechanics in the field could fit the key to the keyway. Most often the keyway is around .001 under what we would call a normal size. Doesn’t matter if it’s inch or metric. It’s actually...

Jerry, yep you're right about the brushes. Thankfully they're still in production. I have two more on the way just because !!

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I am a fan for small parts also.

As was posted, the worm drive TT rearend is not hard to move, IF it has an auxiliary transmission with a neutral and /or the TT transmission is adjusted correctly. I have seen it said on this forum in the past and elsewhere, that the TT rear will NOT move without sliding the tires. Think about it, if that was the case, everytime the stock...

Just to go a small step further that no one covered, straight up and down (vertical) with the stick is direct drive, forward with the stick is low and back with the stick is overdrive. Shifting from one gear to another as you're driving along, decelerate a bit depress the clutch and move the stick.

Ed aka #4

Thank you all for your help.
Mark

Spar varnish is a great choice and it is the best, period correct clear finish to use for this application. Shellac is also period correct, but, while it leaves a beautiful dark amber finish, it does not hold up well to the weather, as it has a tendency to turn white when it gets wet. Urethane or epoxy are the best weather resistant clear...

I finally located my stash of ignition switches, both pin and tab types, all using the bent tab type contacts. What is interesting is how there are several different locations of the dimple back contacts. I wonder if the were changes due to cost or other location changes for other reasons? Interesting!

Kerry is right...that IS asbestos. We had a bunch of those in the lab, usually used to hold ball or erlemeyer flasks, etc. over a bunsen burner.