MTFCA Forum

John, I spent a lot of time researching around 1915/16/17 and the embargo, it wasn't really made mandatory that bodies must be built in Australia, it just worked out that way to be cheaper. It all revolved around the war, shipping and politics.
The politics, Dunlop tried to stop all imported cars other than English, the compromise was at the...

For what purpose are you going to use the car? You might get a bit more speed and higher revs without the magnets, but you do need slingers to get the oil where you want it unless you use an after market oil pump. If you are making a speedster, maybe that is the way to go, but with a good magneto and good coils, the car runs fine the way Henry...

While the Lang's template is helpful, it if not the whole answer. A standard template demands a set of standard specs. That presumes that every fuel outlet at the tank has exactly the same orientation. Clearly, with the history of our cars that is not going to happen. The tapered thread on the outlet will tighten where it needs to. I would suggest...

The fourth spanner from the bottom is the earlier spark plug wrench with the socket end. Later versions had an open box end. The pliers above that spanner are just like those Ford used, but the more desirable ones are Ford branded. There are so many unbranded pliers that it may be that they are indeed Ford issued. The same goes for tyre levers....

Mark: I believe you are right, but you would be surprised at what you can pack in there. I have side curtains a battery, and tools plus a spare timer.

Thanks guys
Are the pedals cast steel?

Thanks. Overall the exterior and interior are in great shape. Underside, not bad but a closed plastic jug of muriatic was stored. Created a mess under there.

The jug was wedged under the drivers wishbone and it looks like the titanic. Not sure what years of exposure did to that metal. Luckily there about the worst part of it.

On most parts, Ford did not begin putting (or having outside suppliers put) the Ford script onto the part until about 1919. So it is possible that it is an earlier part. If I recall correctly, your T is a 1926 model. A 1926 or '27 model uses different spindles than all the earlier years did. The '26/'27 spindles allow the car to sit a bit less...

Actually, it appears to have excessive clearance. I would replace it while it is apart.

In addition to all the excellent sealing advice, if you follow R.V. Anderson's method, you may also want to paint the area of the joint with GLPT resin, which is used as an insulator and sealer in electric motors. It was also used quite commonly as an internal sealing layer on the engines and transmissions of such car makes as Franklin. Both my...

When I was about 10 or 11 years old, there was a military surplus store here in Downey California called The Supply Sergeant. It was on Firestone Boulevard across from Simpson Buick.
In their fenced in yard there were a few vintage military vehicles on display just inside the chain link fence in plain view from Firestone, a heavily traveled...

Ernie has to be One of the Best in the business ! I've seen many results of his leather work - simply fabulous !!!

John,the curved down part has actually been cut off for some reason. they should come out straight I compared these panels with my 20 roadster and they are the same.

Good News! I just spoke with Steve at Lang's. They have 4 used corkscrew style regulators for me... Of course, the gear boxes are worthless, since they are pot metal. However, I got the last 4 repro gear boxes in existence. The gods have smiled on me today...

Frank

Just a few more ads. It sounds like it came with its own heavy duty hubcap.

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These are aawesome! Thank you for sharing. Will be a little bit until I can get a hub machined, but once I do I will follow up. My true idea is to simply put it on when at a show as part of the 'display' of the car.

Mine too, Tim ! Another wonderful thing about that photo is the baling wire securing the toolbox and fenders to the top support iron. :lol:

Nice to have the pictures - this has been a fun dialogue - add in your binder the parts orders and invoices - that way in early December you can add up what you've spent and can tell your spouse that they don't have to worry about giving you a Christmas present.

Here are some inspirational pics.

This car is a fascinating study in
Ford Motor Company Early History 🧐

Identified As “ 1903 Ford Model A Open Tourer “

This car has # 68 stamped on the flywheel.

It was originally delivered to
A.C. Barker’s Agency in Chicago, IL
on August 15th, 1903.

To me - this example shows Henry Ford’s
first attempt to build a Pick Up Truck 😉

The rear...

I was replacing timbers in a barn fresh pickup body today. There is a timber up each side of the cowl on our Duncan and Fraser bodies. I had it cut to length, had managed to cut the top at the required two angles, had machined the relief for the floorboard riser at the correct angle and depth, had the lapjoint done on the bottom end and proceeded...

Once you get it off, it may be advisable to clean the threads with a bench grinder mounted with a fine wire wheel brush. Pot metal does corrode and expand over the years and that may be what happened with your cap. Put Vaseline on the cap threads when screwing the cap on. Jim Patrick

10-32 is the trick. Picked up some Phillips heads from the Big box store so I can button up the door until I can get to the local hardware to get the oval flat heads. Thanks guys!

Brad

I had a petcock come loose and fall out when I used Teflon tape for sealing the threads, but only tightened it to the position I wanted instead of fully tightening it.
Luckily I caught it in time so no damage occurred.

Henyford2——-
I meant to say cadmium content rod using cadmium instead of silver. Anyway the health dept. cited the company and we started silver content rods again. And do remember the rods were coated with a bluish colored flux,
I do remember the owner didn’t like it when he got the citation.

Thanks Denis,
I have checked my email and have not seen your email. Please send to lebsackmike@gmail.com

Also for sale in the classified section here on the forum:

Good point! Remove the radiator!
Norm

Mark Friemiller is the owner. He's a stand up guy. If you get something from him that doesn't meet your expectations, he doesn't charge a restocking fee as some vendors do. You just pay return shipping or freight.

Can't tell from the photos if you have a Headlight reflector spring. Also I have noticed a difference in the repop rope gasket diameter. Might make it easier to remove the rim and/or cause a rattle.

Found some ads

Rubber tipped needle valves were introduced in the mid 50s. It was determined that the steel needles were becoming statically charged with the fuel passing them and causing small metallic debris to stick to the needle causing over fueling. The rubber tip would prevent the static charge.. If the tank is spotless there will be no issue, however if...

Oh yes,the ol 2 reverses 1 forward thing.Been there done that.
The great feeling was when I turned the engine the first time in my speedster project with the low pedal down and the wheels went the right way! What a releif!

Neat pic! Love the one-man top retrofit with straps and the rear side curtains, I often drive mine with only the rear side curtains installed.

I don't know if you remember Allan, but I owned one at Ballarat Swap for about 30 minutes. I sat at your site with it. A hit-miss bloke asked if I would sell it. I said no, I'd just bought it , he said what is your silly price , and he bought it. Still a bit annoyed with myself. 😕 Ah well. Think it may have been Silky Oak.

After 111 years a lot of later parts are on mine but it has the aluminum skinned body that was discontinued in Sept. of 1909 from what I have read somewhere. This is my late 09 on a rest while giving rides a couple weeks ago.

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From this link which is available online
to the public:

@

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You can isolate a page at a time and if you
zoom in you can read it:

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Thanks to the efforts of Josh & Kendall
at The Early Ford V-8 Foundation Museum
in Auburn, Indiana - this first person...

Yes, they are a gimick type plug with a spring loaded top that supposedly drew fresh air in on the intake stroke. They probably didn't work too well. I can imagine there was a problem with them sealing properly on the compression stroke. Several quantities of them have turned up over they years and they are popular among spark plug collectors...

Dan, that low head looks like it has the gasket still on it, I have several low heads in stock and all have both holes.

hi Art
Our 19-11T was restored from an original car in 19-70 and the straps have 12 oval holes at 1inch apart so maybe thats a guide,
Regards from Aus Ian Oates

Beautiful Tim!

These have been on this site for all to see many years. The 15-20 Touring -partial Roadster plans are Mel Miller’s. The Canadian plans aren’t.
If your building a 15-20 Touring these will help.

The worst is the traffic lights right above you as you stop, not on the opposite side of the intersection. That is how they all are in Eastern Europe. Work around it. My $.02. Frank

Hap, Tim and Henry, thank you for your kind words! I've spent a lot of time reading your posts on the forum and value your opinions. If anyone is a Hershey Fall Meet attendee next year, it'll be on the Chocolate Field, and then the show field on Saturday. I'm only a 15 minute drive away.

Dan, of course they did! It's called the wide cowl body, and even used a new design floormat.

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Place the vertical bolts first and tighten. Then install the wood blocks. Horizontal bolt goes in from outside the frame, so no need to counter sink into the wood. Tape castle nut in place in wrench and have assistant turn bolt while you hold wrench. Then I wish you the best of luck getting the cotter pin in. I ended up getting a longer bolt with...

Noah- thanks for posting the link. The photos were really fine and fun to look at. I even saw pictures of some of our Tennessee T's members in a few of them. Thanks again.

Well done young man! Don't stop learning, and don't believe everything you read on this forum! Understand the information in the Ford Service book, and you are on your way. I realize there is little information as far as pictures go in there, but there is plenty elsewhere!

Hey Michael, my dad ran one on his speedster for a bit... don’t remember noticing the gear noise🤔

The idler and the driven gears ride in bushings, and so will affect the gear mesh as the bushings wear. Also the drive gear is mounted to the camshaft, and may not locate well when mounted to the timing cover. Try to adjust backlash between the drive...

That would have been use. Brendan and Karen Doughty from Nekoosa Wisconsin.

That MAY be the best clip yet.
Thank ya sir!

Great photos!

I appreciate all the good information and I guess I will have to get a pedal to accommodate.
Thanks again all for your time and input

When you say quality , does that mean HIGH quality, poor quality, other ? The word
quality has no meaning without a qualifier.

Those are very unusual. I have never found anyone that can say what is the real story on them.
I did find a picture in a 1910 Ford Times that shows one on a Ford race car. It has the city name cut off and the arrow is pointing to the rear of car.
They must be either Pre T or early T. Dan

I like to thread and plug the core holes as was done on the 1913 and earlier blocks.
The existing core holes sometimes do not even need to be tap drilled as the holes are nearly the correct size for a 1/2 in pipe tap.
I start by getting the tap to go in a short distance. Then I install the pipe plug carefully and count the number of threads...

(continued)

The following is from the Jul Aug 1981 Vintage Ford page 43 used by permission to promote our hobby:

From Don Ball – answering in the column “Questions and Answers”

The tray was made of wood and was covered with the
same material as used around the rear window area of
the body. …. The holes were not for ‘drainage”
but rather...

Thanks, I am picking up Wednesday and will get more photos

Only one remaining, no more will be produced by me. Doing other things with my life.

Thanks Matt!

Hank

Looks like a brass body L4. Those had a smaller bowl nut than the cast iron version. It’s also missing one of the arms for the choke, and it has a late model spray needle. Those bowls will interchange with the early NH bowls (to the left) but have a different drain.

Thanks Dan. You are better at finding those than I was. Much the same except for the Hot Dome . Also Fuemizer instead of Fuemer . Funny how they evolve.
Rich

I am in the Horseless Carriage Club, and our local group decided NOT to post lists of cars owned, because there were several attempts at burglaries
(Fortunately all unsuccessful in our area) that have happened in the past.
I do know one gentleman (in another state) who had a burglary and they removed EVERY piece of brass trim from his car in a...

I have my vaporizer carb on my bench now, after taking it apart after being soaked in Evaporust. Evaporust does NOT attack the float, the brass parts, the copper parts, or anything else. It just removes the rust and leaves everything else untouched.
This would be an ideal test for you to try E.R and see what you think. It is non-irritating, and...

John's suggestions of use the old firewall for a pattern and make a new one sounds like a good idea. I.e. if the hood, hood former, hood sills, firewall to firewall brackets and body all fit together well -- that is the pattern to use.

Note, many of the original firewalls were made up of different vertical boards glued together and that had a...

George,

Blue crimp connector goes to my battery under the backseat.

Guys,

Another stupid question, I have both a 6 volt battery (currently not using), and a 12 volt battery to start and then switch to mag. I should run my lights on the 6volt as again they are old tung sol 6-8 volt incandecent bulbs

I've seen people who try to wind 'em up round & round. Our '21 starts with just a gentle upward pull. It's so easy I bet my 10 year old grandson could do it. I might have him try next time he's at our house. He drove it when he was 9!

Keep posting these photos Tom!

Thank you.

While Ford may not have recommended cutting the brake shoe into two halves, the service bulletin obviously recognised that the shoes did break, and if at the mounting bolt, the extra spring would hold the pieces in place. While admitting to breakages, what it did not acknowledge is what could happen if it broke elsewhere! Just because Ford didn't...

Hi, My 1927 was made on Jan. 31 1927, 14693546, It has original paint and all of the interior is original. Look at the pictures. Thanks, Bob.

Nice find Frank.

Looks like I may have found the issue...with Wayne's help. What is the best way to re-adjust these spring clamps to re-position the spring in the right spot? 20201011_154814.jpg

Thanks, someone just posted in the model A section on fordbarn. Perfect timing, I’m in touch with a fellow that has already been a help.

Steel spoke versions, aftermarket, most all used std. Ford hubs.

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I found these DISTEEL wheels restored by Dan Treace. I have always wanted a set and these are beauties! Came with new bearings tubes, tires, and flaps and a Disteel wrench and Disteel air gauge. Just got them on my Fordoor yesterday.

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Darel: Wow, good for you. Say, if you aren't playing lottery this week, would you mind sharing your numbers with me (in a private msg)? Drive careful, jb

Gene,

Glad to hear John is still making top socket sets.

A belt sander can make fitting the top bows in the sockets go much faster.
As you are fitting the bows in the sockets, install the assemblies on the car in the folded position to make sure they align with each other, and that the sockets fit together in the retainers. Also check that...

We took our old “K” out today.....

John K, The cartoon character is in fact supposed to be Dopey from the 1937 Disney film Snow White and the Seven Dwarfs . The rendition is poor, so that I did not recognize him when I first looked at this thread, and I had to look closer to see it. Dopey was the only one of the seven dwarfs in Disney's film that did not have a beard.

And yes, I...

The half moon over the coil box lid is the first thing I check to see if a car is a true 1915. There are a whole lot of other things too. Here in So. California there are far more fake 1915's than real ones, so it's good to check.

That diagram was nice!

Thank you all.

I just braze the hole up and re-drill it.

Stephen

Thanks everyone!

My wife and I were so sorry to miss the tour this year. It's our favorite of the year. I am happy to read that it went well and that everyone's safety was a top priority. (It always is of course, but these days....)

See y'all next year!!!!!!! :D

Pictured is one I made. John Page, Australia

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Keith, thanks for the tip, I'll pass that on to my friend. Running the screw threads over a cake of bees wax is also helpful when installing screws.

I made a working key! Thanks MTFCA!

Chris,
You're very welcome, glad to hear of your success!
That's thanks enough for me!
Bill

Thank you for the advice! I’ll post more pics when I make more progress.

Darin

Welcome, Len. Getting the T started and driving it are two different animals. I go along with what Norman Kling said about getting it started, but you need to do a safety inspection before driving it. The front suspension and steering need to be thoroughly inspected and lubricated and repaired as necessary before driving the car. Model T brakes...

Mike, I finally dug it out haven't used it in awhile, it is made in USA and named Zim cotter pin puller. It looks as if it may have been plated at one time. Jim

Keep them coming Tom!

Martyn.
Looks perfect to me! Thank you for the great work you do with your drawings
Alan in Western Australia