MTFCA Forum

What is point arcing? Why is it worse than Double Sparking and how is it eliminated?

Thanks John and Mark.

There's still one of those in State Highway 36 east of I-5... While I always assume all is fine, it;s still a bit spookey watching someone come towards you in a middle lane that is also dotted for your passing lane...

Thank you all for your replies. Now I know.

You might brace the sides as you bend to keep from buckling outwards.

I had one of those illuminated ammeters from Fun Projects. Just found it the other day. Apparently, I bought it in 2016! I never put it in, and just installed am ammeter look-alike that is really a speedometer, from John Regan. Works great! But .... It doesn't have a light.

I do want something I can see motlre than just the meter, though.

Happy Thanksgiving everyone, hopefully things will be better next year. Stay safe and keep on T'ing!

Im with Hank! Never hurt an engine, including diesels.

Not to hijack the original poster but I was using a Kingston carburetor and I’m wondering if the flapper thing in there didn’t get stuck in the up position or something like that. I had a rebuilt Harley NHI put on now and see how it goes.

The question is for Ford sizes so will list those from a Canadian parts book/
Standard, .001, .002, 003, .003, .004, .005, .010, .015, .020, .025, .030, .033, .035, .040, .045
But rings was only, standard, ,005, .015, .025, .035, and .045

After market ones is another story

Thanks for adding the photo Norman !

If we had to go back to horses, I don't think they would be laughing! ;)

Looking closely at the 1915 dealer touring, I noticed the very early E&J Model 6 sidelamps and the larger E&J Model 456 headlamps on the car. Clearly, this is one of the first 1915 style tourings. Also, it is interesting to note that many of the cars have a speedometer as seen by the cable and the cable strap hanging from the front fender iron. It...

The back Main Bearing is also shorter by about 3/8th inch.

I don't recall the exact difference.

Steve,
you inspired me to sort a 'been meaning to' job.
My '26 Coupe has a Vaporizer so a different design.
I bought a dirt-bike angled filter for about $6 and I also did a bit of sheet metal work.
The tricky bit is a 'dent' on the engine side so that the choke control can operate.
No mods to the car. Doesn't seem to get hot next to the vap.

After taking a better look at the Cleve’s linkage , ( took the grease off ) and it was dragging. Took it off, adjusted it, ( way to long ) and put in a couple of washers to keep it off the bendix cover.
The peddle now comes up as designed.
Once we have a warmer day in Nebraska, I will take it out for a test ride.

Thanks to everyone who gave me...

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I easily made a flywheel lifting device like Steve posted. It’s really important to have 3 ‘legs’ of chain and hooks rather than 2. More stable.u

They look like Kevlar bands to me. I like to adjust them just enough so they work well. That way, maximum clearance is maintained between the band and drum when they are not in use, and there is no drag. The distance from floorboard measure may have had some relevance when the cars were new, but with 100 years of pedal tromping, bent pedals, worn...

I used the cowl lights for the front turn signals. Used amber beehive marker lights in the rear.

Hi Hap,
Thanks for that, it is very helpful,
Keep safe,
Kind regards
Adrian

Dollisdad - these pictures are great. Maybe post them in the Gallery section so that they do not get lost in the threads as the forum grows.
There is a section for garages and dealers too:

Victor,

Yes, that could be a problem. Depends when it is in the cycle that the valve bumps open. But really, I would want to know why it's happening at all. If I understand correctly what's going on, it makes me think there's a small bump in the heel of the cam form that shouldn't be there. I would ink-up the cam lobe all the way around, then...

Thanks John.
That is a good site.
The one I have is like the one in the first ad on the site: weaver ad 1918.JPG

If you look closely mine might not need the need the attachment , it is not used in the photo. It might need a piece to clamp it to the front axle.
That is good news.

Thanks Dallas 👋

Yesterday was a long but productive day
in Indiana 👍

Brent Allen bought me a nice lunch in Ft. Wayne
and was kind enough to follow me down to
Portland where I dropped off a nice 1964 Thunderbird
for The Early Ford V-8 Foundation Museum.

10C48A8C-DF90-410D-944B-206E8C6579AB.jpeg

Then Brent drove me back up to Auburn to...

I have a very nice front seat rear panel but I don't know the year. Please show a photo of what it looks like.
Ken Buhler

Hi Randy. Mark got it. I’ll email you my address. I think I still have your phone number. I’ll talk to you later. Don

If you went with EBay you can check the sellers feedback. That may give you an idea when you can get the items if you purchase off of EBay. Contact the seller and ask how long it would get the parts. That’s a question you could ask. If they don’t contact you back you can forget about it.

From what I was able to make out in the lousy pictures the radiator is 15-16, not 1909. That mess under the choke hole hurts the value for me. If I examined that and thought it could be fixed I might go $150 - $200.

Number 5 Million is now on display in the MTFCA Museum in Richmond, IN.

Keith

I don't know if these are current but you might check them out.

Bruce,

If you want you can ship it to me to test or I believe I would have a spare one to lend or if you want it, to purchase. You have my email and phone # if you wish to call me. Mark Gregush make several good points, so if you need help we have all the tooling necessary, just rebuilt 3 of them this weekend.

Thanks,
Andy

Wasn't this discussed back in early Oct? In reviewing that series of posts, this 2008 article by Jeff Humble answers the question:
By Jeff Humble on Wednesday, December 03, 2008 - 11:51 am:
When I replaced the glass in my 26 coupe I removed the regulator first. Robert's method sounds good too, but this is what I did.

With the window down ,...

Darin...BTW...I use the same Red-n-Tacky grease on the bearings too! Guess I shoulda read your post more thoroughly!! :lol:

Those are some great looking tyres! And Hartford tubes are great also...heaviest tube I've seen yet. They should last a long time.
Langs sells them.

Another thing I failed to mention, if you have wood spoke wheels, the spokes should be tight in the felloes and in the hub. They might need to be re-spoked if they are loose.
Norm

That is what it sounds like to me.

I don’t know if this is a consideration, but when I bought a roller bearing fourth bearing to replace the original babbited one, the directions advised for me to cut off about 3/8” of the ball in order for it to mate with the cavity of the new bearing. I thought about it and decided I didn’t like that idea so I took out my drive plate and sent it...

Here is a link to a study of the wheels I did a few years ago. It should give you something to read and think about.

Thanks for the ad photo Frank !

Yes Allan, it slips on and you slide it over to the perch. I've removed perches with it but as stated above - if it's been outside exposed to the elements, I use heat and my 40 ton press using a thread protector.

Years ago made a tool similar to the one shown in Service Bulletin.

Thanks for the information Dan. the dimensions for the Ford made clamp are close to the dimensions shown in the service bulletin drawing. The longer arm is 4 long, and the arm dimensions are 3/16 thick x 5/16 wide compared to the 1/4 diameter rod in the drawing. The opening is...

If you don't want them, at least give them to someone in the club who likes to salvage coils, or rebuild them. Many times it is just a loose connection or a bad condenser causing the problem Even the wood can be salvaged for a coil which is otherwise good but the wood is shot.
Anyway, don't toss them in the dump.
Norm

I got mine!

They look kind of sloppy around the line of bolt holes on the valve side, but it should not affect the operation.

I did not know Glenn Larson, but having lost one of my brothers to Covid, I do know how his friends, family, and colleagues feel. My condolences to all.

From the Tennessee T's. Thank you Susan for your service and we look forward to working with you Rachel.

This post from 2014 has terrific info of real data researched on the first Model T's. Very good reading.

As for the first T's, only about 12 had the unique front crossmember bracket that is straight down as opposed to the later L curved bracket. A real one would have this special bracket only used very short time on the first dozen Model T's...

John Codman hit the nail on the thumb.
A lot of mods, and IF they were well done, it MIGHT be a good car.
But if they were all botch jobs, then you would have a LOT of work ahead of you, getting it drivable and also RELIABLE.
I think that might be why the price is so low. When I see mods on a car, especially older mods, I get VERY wary, and to...

I discovered the gentlemen who made the door latches for my year car and he kindly told me two different ways to make the spring. Also, if I couldn't make it he would make it for me if I sent him the latch. His description of how to source the right material and how to make it was more than sufficient for me to get the material and make the...

Terry it sounds like you have a very busy schedule when you come over the pond maybe have to take 3 years off. 20201013_095527.jpg

Thanks Hap I see it now, that early set up must have been done away with early, the only pinion listed by 1911 is the tapered one, pinion only or shaft with a pinion.

R.V. & Larry...guess maybe I just have bad luck. But I generally don't back down from a challenge...I'll get it licked somehow! At least I got 90% of the oil drips from both cars remedied...they almost don't look like a T anymore on the pavement under the engine! And got the fuel drips stopped too. Yay!

As mentioned above get the housings straightened. Even the late ones bend. In the illustration above it shows a gasket between the D.S. roller bearing spool and the rear end. I don't believe Ford ever offered a gasket for that application.

Craig. The fan bracket is not missing. It is the little brackets at the top of the casting. After looking at the photos again I also see the pin drive in the second photo. It is the part with the four pins and the four little springs. I also see the magneto couplikg that is usually missing. It is the little spring steel cover that fits over the...

Thank You Frank for the old posts they both are very helpful. I am sure this has been said here many times , this forum is the most valuable thing for my dollar on the internet , Thank you to all that make this happen for all of us!

Yes it been posted before but its so nice to watch again. Harsh winter conditions. Icy wind polished roads with no salt or sand in high speed with no spikes or chains on those skinny tyres. He was kind of lucky when the car hit the ditch it was a soft landing in the snow. Interesting guy. Very impressive journey and film .

Nu2theT .... man ... THAT beast would GIVE me Aurthor itis! ;-)

EVERY time I go out in the T is my best time. 'Cause I never know if it'll be MY LAST.

YES KRAZY GLUE WORKS, I BOUGHT A SPRITZER KICKER THAT SETS THE GLUE INSTANTLY, I HAVE A OLD BOX OF MAZDA 9 VOLT BULBS AND HAD THAT PROBLEM WITH ONE , NOT WANTING TO SCRAP A BULB THAT STILL WORKED THAT WAS MY FIX, , I'M USING A 9 VOLT BATTERY IN MY 'T' AND MY LIGHTS ARE GREAT.

There is a modern seal that fits in place of the can for the inner felt that works way better. Machining a carrier for a modern seal that replaces the washer inside the outer sleeve is also the way to go if you have a lathe.

I believe they are making new u-joints for those. I've still got plenty of the old original pot metal ones.

Loved the movie Dan,
It was truly amazing what we did as a nation back then, definitely makes one proud and also wonder how on earth we did it!! Could it be accomplished again? I fear not. Where are the Henry Fords and patriots today???

489B2A20-E9B3-4791-9022-A1BD864D23B2.jpeg

Steve, I like the Plutonium plug, I installed them years ago in a Anderson overhead looked cool in there!

There’s always a few in the crowd....always

Yes thanks Ron. I went out and looked at my stash of coils, I have 2 6 screw and 2 4 screw.

If I was going to do this I would install a “swing check” (no springs) in parallel to the pump. Then I would probably have the best of both options!!

Thank you everyone for the responses!

I had forgotten that Mr. Hughson owned it, and was a dealer. I had the suspicion it said 'dealer' but it didn't add up. Thank you Mr. Boggess for setting me straight on that. ;)

According to this diagram, if you tighten the body down at the firewall while shimming just in front of the door hinge column, it will tilt the door forward, closing the gap at the top. I have never done this so, even though it makes sense to me, try at your own risk. Jim Patrick

60D47BCE-06B4-4FC3-8B94-426A5481A32A.jpeg

Here is my engine painted with Snyder’s high heat Ford Green engine enamel. I think it is as close as your going to get to the original engine green and I like the look of it. Also, whose to say that the dull green on the engine shown above did not look like the Snyder’s supplied Ford Green, 93 years ago when it was first applied. Jim Patrick....

Thanks for the link Walt! I haven’t seen this car before and it certainly is special! It seems like maybe 8-9 years ago Mike Santiago built the A powered single seat sprinter. Guess he’s been busy! It’s good to see Scott at the wheel too. I miss seeing y’all up north... just takes a bit more effort than usual these days to get up there

Thank you all. I have the tool from Scott. Working really well. My NH come from Russ Potter as well. A friend of mine recommended to me the modern one because it avoid to be stuck as the regular needle. But I thought I will keep as is finally with the needle Russ use.

Dwight,

Just a personal ‘trick’ whether I am doing a closed car, or an open one on bows.

I only sink the tacks in halfway until I’m happy with the fit and draw...then once assured I don’t have a pucker...or need just a wee bit more tug by pulling a few tacks for the stretch needed...only then hammer home all the tacks!

X2

Actually, Larry, the cost would be very nearly the same as the 1911 torpedo mats were, which was $425, and we'd need to sell at least 35 to get that price, so I doubt it's gonna happen, at least not by me.

B8BC7B38-49F8-4903-87AE-5217D6F3FA66.jpeg

Before I started using the foam to pack my new Buffalo wheels... I had to ship a wheel to Australia. I spent half a day building a crate to support the wheel and prevent damage under the worst of circumstances. Was not an efficient use of time, and there had to be a better way! No doubt it was the most robust and reliable way to pack something...

My great grandmother bought a new Model T touring in 1925. She drove it until 1947 when it was parked in the shed and it's still there. It now belongs to my cousin and hasn't been run in about 10 yrs. He keeps it oiled up and turning over. I believe his son will inherit it. Not for sale.

Dan, the new manifolds vary a bit as well. The thickness of the one piece copper glands allows them to be tweaked to accommodate these differences too.

Allan from down under.

Super Mario, Befriend a football player with wide shoulders and strong arms.... :)

Keith

Erik,
Yes, Grandma and Grandpa were born and raised in Saint Paul. Grandpa, actually, on a farm in Maplewood on Edgerton St.

Frank,
I guess you could say it started with Grandpa. He traded the '16 in for a coupelet in 1917. Then a '21 runabout, and finally a '25 touring. I caught the bug from my dad. His first car was a '22 coupe that he bought...

The aluminum-style iron manifold appeared in Dec. 1912. It was used for only a short time early in the '13 model year.

Pressure pack of copper seal, buy from Repco, auto barn or super cheap, or you can use brush on silver frost.
Make sure all your head bolt threads are cleaned out, scratch out the crap in the bottom of them and blow out with air. I also use never seize on the head bolt threads.

I have to agree with you Gene, Tom truly is a straight up guy. Always has the time to help.
Back in the days when I was overseeing the Swap Meet, the real star of the show was Tom. I was pretty much like the King of England, just a figurehead.
Tom and the other folks were the ones that made it happen. Tom is like the Enegerizer Bunny. He just...

Thanks everyone. I was going to ask about that spring and clip. I bought one from Lang's does anyone have a picture of one in place?

Found this, enjoy!
Henry Ford and the Reason for the Radius Rod Upgrade

In the summer of 1914, I was walking across the Highland Park Garage. There were two cars standing in there. Mr. Ford waved to me and said, Joe, get in here! I didn't have any hat or coat on, but I got into the car, and I didn't get back to Detroit for three days. When we...

I pulled the valve cover on my speedster, it has a 30 head, same exact spring, ie wraps, OD and spring dia. No inner spring. Along with all the above inputs,......problem solved.
Now I got to find the push rods.
Thanks all, Don

Jeorg, the part you show is not a typical example of nut/bolt sizes. 7/16 is the thread size but the brass hex on the grease fitting is smaller than the usual nut used on a 7/16 bolt. It is a thin walled pressing. As such, it should not be used as a locknut on your fan shaft.

Allan from down under.

Maybe posting the questions he might have would work better. The combined knowledge that is not on paper here is sometimes astounding. Lot of repair information is learned so not in repair manuals. Besides his questions might be of benefit to someone else.

Later production cars after around about 1924 used the step design but not all. Just a Ford design change for cost I guess. Ford did the same thing with the Model A tubes having differences over the production.