MTFCA Forum

Bob, I try to fit them as best I can, and note how much more I need to be able to get them into place. Then I use a die to add that much thread to one end. This enables that end to go further through the eye and lets me fit the other end. Purists might not appreciate the extra bit of thread.

Allan from down under.

Darel, my 1910 engine is painted black. It’s very hard to tell about the engine pans, my guess is dark green. The transmission cover was never painted.

My 1912 has a Holley H1 carburetor. What fittings are required to fit one of those taps on the carburetor side?

Allan from down under.

Thanks Allen,

Very good advice. Like I said the restoration was done 30 years ago and there were 2 shims. They had worn through is spots and the castle nut was loose after removing the cotter pin.

The photo with the green arrows was from an earlier post that I used as an illustration.

All 4 wheels have really solid spokage. No gaps or loosness,...

I have run one like it. This style does line up with the Ford hot air pipe. The valve at the bowl is an enriching needle for starting or as needed for richer mixture. As far as performance, my OP is they mirror the Strombergs but not as common.

Hi Tim, thanks for posting the pics from our trip to Joe's in Tiffin. Thought I'd add the one of you standing next to your car instead of taking the pics! Was a great day.
Bill

20200729_110437.jpg

Adrian

That's a good story, ;)

Magnets are helpful in the garage too. Have a magnetic bowl to hold nuts and bolts from rolling off the bench. And one of those magnetic sweepers on a stick to find stuff dropped on the floor!

Here is an old timer's use of Ford magneto magnet to clear bolt holes.

Ford magnet for clearing bolt holes.JPG

You can be right or You can be HAPPY! John Mays

Gene, there's no law against adding a little hi-temp RTV to those copper rings. I do that because my block hasn't been surfaced to remove the pits. :)

Ole Doc had all the lights and hand brake Gold plated on 962 just so he did not have to polish any more.

not tt ford ,i have a set just like that that i am going to use on my car trailer. tts were used up to about 1960 just different lengths .charley

In another story and word found on the Internet:

Who invented the first Automotive Assembly Line?

Automotive pioneer Ransom Eli Olds deserves credit for patenting the first assembly line process , and for starting the automotive industry in the Detroit area. Henry Ford is usually given credit for inventing the assembly line. What he actually...

You will be able to see the DVD's if viewed on (or through) a computer... we have to do the reverse (watch DVD's we bring back from the EU) via a laptop and cables to watch them on the TV. Has to do with the difference in systems (50 vs 60 Hz) and the video standard (PAL vs NTSC)...

Ummm... most of that T ... is an A . :shock:

It's nice to look at those days. Things in those photos take us to a place you can't find today.
Rich

Nope, that’s not what you need. It’s for a T. I have a TT Rear Spring clamp. It’ll cost less than the mailing. Email me: gwhouse731(at)gmail.com

I just bust the old drum off with a hammer.

Stephen

Thanks Steve! Great info!

-David

25 thou? Didn't know that. They are Autolite plugs. I will give that a try. Thanks Bruce

Yes; very impressed. Arrived today in Somerset, England.

That last group with the center door must be taking a long break if they have time to read! Like the photos.

Hi Scott,

For sure I will stop some day to see that beauty. Very well done! You may have other treasure there too as well.

First of all, what the author is trying to talk about is a stud, not a bolt. And yes, we've all had that problem.

What is the part number of the trailer converter in the above diagram and will it work on 6 volts?
Thanks
Jerry

I don't have a part number since I bought a kit from one of the vendors. But, go to etrailer.com and search for a universal converter, not a model-specific converter. They have the 4-in, 3-out converters that don't require a 12V power...

John,
You are on the money, Ford Canada obviously was ahead of Ford USA with the introduction of Lacquer on the Model T Ford.
on 13th May 1926 ( 2 months before the July 1926 Detroit introduction) ) Ford Australia announced that their factories were now complete and the Ford would be finished in Lacquer in three optional colors, Imperial Blue,...

Joseph,
That is an interesting read! I wonder if the family has any photos and/or documents from that period (1903-1910).

Bud,
Just dropped off a few things at the shop where the racer is. It’s almost together and ready for a test drive. Hopefully within a week or two. Hope all is well there.

Dave, I have to do some measuring.

I am president of the local Ford car club. We will be having our 36th annual Ford Powered Car show in August. We were able to secure 120 masks made by Ford with a small Ford logo in a corner of the mask. Got them through a local Ford dealer. I haven't seen one yet, but have been told they were pretty neat.

Perry, you must have been on the turps last night! How can 7.30 equate to a shadow entirely under the car? Or is that a US phenomenon? :lol:

Allan from down under.

GOOD heavens Susan you need to spell private message out in your title! I don't need to read about PMS on the forum too! :o

Norman, those are period accessory steel spoked wheels made by Atlas Wheel Company. They are also commonly referred to as PG&E Wheels.
I am hoping to have this car on the national tour in Spokane next year.

Bryan- changing the bands on that thing would be easy- just take the hood off! Thanks for posting that Tom.

Look for one of the new ones that has an anti-sulfation or Recondition feature.
Repeated heavy discharges and recharges will kill a battery that is not made for them, very quickly.
Take a look at the CTEK brand. Made in Sweden, and has excellent reviews.
I bought a CTEK one for my motorcycle batteries, and now I use it instead of my regular...

July 30, 1863 So only 157 years old! Happy birthday Dear Henry!

George I have used as well as others a 1/4 drill to clean up T blocks for years with no issue. In fact it’s works fine. Unless the numerous blocks I’ve had were misdrilled from the factory a 1/4” drill works fine for me. To each their own.

My block is out being bored for the new pistons, have put deck resurfacing on hold for now will check top ring exposure with crank, rod & piston in place when I bring home. Thanks for the responses. George

OoooHhhhhh Eye Candy! The American Dental Association approves as a NO CAVITIES !

:D :D :D

Kevin,

My Mistake, I was under the impression Dan was referring to X rod in X grooving the inside babbitt. Can I blame it on the heat today?

Me Bad Dan! Yes, as Kevin stated, Heavy in Rotation. big power sucker.

Hank

When I was stationed in New Zealand in the late 1950 era, I was surprised at all the items they rebuilt, when they were just thrown away in the USA.

One item was that little flasher can, that normally only needed the points polished.

The can was crimped around the base and that metal was straightened to remove the cover.

The points were...

Looks like a bird cage with a cover on it.

I can hardly wait! Everything I've had planned this year has been cancelled! It's great that finally someone is finally taking a stand. Thanks.

Non-starter Ford O .

Have found bearings will have them soon! The new scat crank was reground and model a bearing caps bored to except clam shell bearings bearings that are from a mg. A lot of time spent looking for the bearings and stepped beyond my budget this engine was built 2011 has less than 100 miles on it and down due to clearance problems crank hit oil line...

The vehicle in which the girls are loaded does not appear to have the heavier rear wheels of a TT. To my eyes it looks like a car chassis, with an extension, perhaps to accommodate an accessory transmission, and this allows for an extended body to boot. I was under the impression that the first TT's were 1918 models.

Allan from down under.

I have no info but that tank looks great!
Can't wait to see it with primer/paint!

If it starts well cold then it's probably not a manifold leak (which would give a lean mix). I suspect that the needle valve in the carb is leaking a little or the float is set too high causing a rich mixture, or the mixture adjustment is too far open.

My 1926 Australian T assembled in the Western Australian Fremantle Assembly Plant has a “A” coded number
in that exact position. Mine also has a metal tag riveted it the dash adjacent to the ignition switch which, unfortunately
can’t be read.
Alan in Western Australia

Did you ever tell us what kind of timer you have? That's another potential source of engine stumble.

Great picture!
But who is that guy in the yellow shirt.
John, your enthusiasm both from a family level and from a club basis is infectious.
Clearly, your Model T is a Smile Machine .
Mike

Bruce the engine was finished initially in October. A total rebuild. When I ran it, I discovered the os pistons were hitting the head. I decided to remove the engine and go thru it again fearing the piston contact had bent the rods. I was right . Two of the four were bent so I realigned them. I beveled the tops of the pistons on a lathe to achieve...

The alternator from Buckeye looks similar to the one Teaxs T sells. Pretty much a ACDelco looking unit.
Driving the car today, it would appear there is a gear mesh problem, as was mentioned previously. I was feeling and hearing a vibration that I could no identify. Talked to Joe at Buckeye and he will look in to it. Says is has not been a problem...

As I always say, I'm no expert, but heres the #1 plug from my 25/26 Fordor after a good 500 miles since last check and cleaning. Earlier I was running it a bit richer, so leaned it down some and this is how it looks. #2 plug was even cleaner.

On the old pre 2019 forum, among the old timers and respected experts, the consensus was that the only way to repair loose spokes was to make yourself a spoke press and re-spoke the wheel. The wheel supports the weight of the car and loose spokes are amazingly dangerous, especially the lateral forces that occur when cornering. What you want to do...

Carmine red is supposed to be the standard color of RAL 3024 or RAL 3026,
RAL numbers are supposed to be typical colors that all paint mixers use

hope this helps

The winner. Sorry, I'm on vacation and can't post photos from my phone.

Sold, to customer in the shop

Yes, it is Turlock, California. The G. W. Hume Co. was a huge canning operation located on Hwy.99 in town. I worked there when I was in high school during the apricot, peaches and tomato seasons in the canning departments doing maintenance on the lines. It got me out of school part time all the way into November, so that alone made it worthwhile....

Th one in Phili. PA, The Powell & Sons one, the building is still there. Go on Googlr maps and take look.

MP body 160-B

As a trumpet player and collector/player of antique trumpets and cornets. Here is one of the best in the business.

Problem solved! I removed the center belt rail and turned it around front to back and reinstalled. Works perfectly, now I believe it to have been installed incorrectly years ago. Thanks everyone and the MTFCA Forum

While you're at it, take an old ring gear and bolt it down with the teeth up.

I cut a hole in my bench top but you can also just bolt it over the edge of your bench.

Handy as a pocket in a shirt for holding the assembly, removing ring bolts etc, tightening them etc etc.

Ur right on Rich!! I finally saw one pic of the earlier version where the lip had that slight outward flare. Rare as hens teeth it seems to find. Just as the correct front fender irons are. I bet the majority of '13s have the later version due to all the bang ups these poor cars went through, and since that style was so limited, the only option...

This double windshield setup was on the speedster when I bought it, so I am not certain what was used to make the passenger side. I figure its probably a converted windwing, more for looks than function, because it doesn't provide a whole lot of wind deflection for the passenger.

That sure was a neat capture Pat!

I completely missed that Charley. Also the front fender irons are the eyelet type to hook the top straps to.

No wonder it won't start... it's flooded! :lol:

Hal, I don't know the girls, but the one on the right is a girl after my own heart! That's one huge ice cream! As big as her, that's the size I always get in soft-serve. Cant afford such a huge one in homemade hand-dipped. The one I got was just right. Almost.😉

MAC's isn't the only source for the parts you may need - they just had the best diagram. Prices vary by supplier (Mac's, Langs, Snyders, Bob's, S&J, Chaffins, etc). Good '26 Slow Speed & Reverse pedals may be difficult to find if needed, Brake pedals are more common as some are replaced with ones needed for outside brake systems like Rocky...

Take notice of the front axle - that is a great example of the '26 - '27 drooping axle & correct spindles !

You know that if you teach a man to fish then give him a 20 ton arbor press he will spend 2 days smushing random things before getting down to business.

Similarly, if you build a man a fire, you'll keep him warm for a day. If you set that man on fire, you'll keep him warm for the rest of his life. :shock:

What Dallas said. The silicone also makes it easier to remove the hoses when necessary. Dave

Thank You Scott for driving up today from Cincinnati to look over The Model B.

Your insight and comments were very much appreciated 👍

Thank You To Everyone Who Took Time
out of their day to greet The Model B
as it made it’s way across the country.

B86CE805-7023-42C0-BB44-E5E75D977538.jpeg

Special Thanks To Joshua Conrad
who is the...

Just about every pan I put on my jig the arms are way off. Most likely the problem with this pan. Get it on a real jig. Dan

Image 7-25-20 at 4.29 PM.jpeg

Image 7-25-20 at 4.29 PM (1).jpeg

I was wondering the same thing... Could be an SR...

ABS = Almost Braking System. Unless you have an auxiliary transmission with no aftermarket brakes, then it's Absent Braking System.

Benson Ford Research Library would have the prints on each leaf, but getting there now isn't possible due to china covid. Mail requests are slow too.

Haven't seen any ref. to factory specs on spring leafs. But long ago a poster put this together from springs sorted and measured, but no taper leaf in this ref

7 leaf Model T Front Spring...

Jim: The single stop and bumper in the pic is pretty beat up, the coupe had a 1943 plate on it when I got it in 1967. I think the T spent its life on gravel roads in central Wisconsin.

Between #256 & #265 , the company started installing a side door. This in the summer of 1922, so yours is a very early production body, Bob. When the doors were added, there were several versions. The size and construction differed. This from info supplied by Jarvis Erickson years ago. He may have pinned down the serial number even more by now....

It's a very interesting carb for that early. I couldn't see it well on my phone, that glass float bowl may interchange with some of the early Stromberg Glass bowls.

Thanks for the comments.
That is interesting Henry. Somehow it reminds me of the opposite. Two fellows fellows I know put parts in plastic buckets outdoors which filled with rain water. It didn't help them a bit. Sad but true.

Get some glass fiber reinforced packing tape. It doesn't stretch. Carefully apply the tape on the flat part of the inside perimiter of the steel felloe next to the spokes. Cut the ends of the tape so they just touch. Remove tape and re-apply on a flat surface. Measure the length and divide by PI. (3.1416). That will give you the diameter.
The...

Here is a thread on a round radiator 1908 Lambert under restoration that includes very nice period photo of a round radiator Model M Lambert.

The bottoms of the radiators where the crank protrudes are slightly different than the wrecked car - that's why I originally ruled out Lambert until it was pointed out the wrecked car was friction drive....