MTFCA Forum

For a wall hanger the price might be ok, otherwise, I see about maybe $40 worth of parts (spindle and wheel) and a lot of that depends on the condition of the wheel and I am not even sure about the spindle.

Fantastic post cards. Its really impressive to se all the belt driven machinery. Wow. :o

A very good historical record lies in Ford Methods and Ford Shops , pages 112 and 135. Depends on 'first' for 'what' in Ford's moving assembly lines.The flywheel magneto was first to be sliding assembly line, April 1, 1913. Later engines were done that way too. Chassis assembly is noted 'up to Aug, 1913, Ford chassis was assembled in one location,...

Now that s funny!!! Bud. :D

I have a box exactly like Jim has, in a little better shape. The tail light lens is like the one that Mark posted, and is plastic. The difference is there is a Ford script decal across the face of the lens which is blue and white. I've always believed this tail light was manufactured for Ford after Model T production ceased. I've seen Chevrolet...

thanks for the coil diagram as I will check the points gap and inspect them from pitting.
Rebuilding a coil is out of the question due to fumes.
The wiring is correct on the ignition switch.
I will keep you informed of the coils.

The mixed of oil I use for soaking the bands is 1/2 10-40 oil and 1/2 ATF. Not only with the Kevelar lining but also with the wood, I never heard about chattering after changing band lining.

Andre
Belguim

We finally got our snow Mark. :) Warnings abound til noon tomorrow.. A let-down here. 4-5 inches so far of 14 predicted.
Eastern MN may get it deep.
Don't be envious. OK, ya can be! We move along until the snow locks us down some!
A melt-down sure may come before January...
Not far to go to get all the way UP on the hills here.
Thank you...

Thanks, Mark G. I think I'll go with 4.00 to 1. In Warford O.D., it'll still give me a 2.93.

The spears posted above as far as I know were only used by Ford. They can't be made from anything. If someone with a metal stamping business would be willing to make a die to stamp these, I'm sure it would be a big seller for the purists.

That sounds good

I have looked for lengths in old parts catalogs, and online using Google. Im pretty good at online searches. But so far no charts or lists pertaining to the pan bolts.

As mentioned above it is just a common sense type of thing. and I have done it before. I was just hoping for a list so I could pre clean some of the bolts needed without cleaning...

It is a winged pyramid. The imagery was big at the time relating to Egypt, even before Carter found Tutankhamun's tomb in 1922, you know mummy's and such. (OP, well sort of)The wings are the scarab which can survive the harsh desert environment and the pyramid eternal like the Model T. There could also be a Freemason connection as well, but that...

1. Place nose touching spark plug terminal... :cry: 2. Have assistant start engine.... :o 3. Slurp water into mouth before engine heats up.... :? 4. No accessory needed! :lol:

Yes, oval ignition switch with two mounting holes.

Ruckstell bell housings.

I did not see that Jeff ... 👀

Thank you for posting ... 😎

FJ

Mark G gave a good answer. The fact is that to get a full answer to your question (If one is even possible?), we must know as close as reasonable what year the engine block is. Blocks had minor changes all through the years of model T manufacture, and even beyond. There were several major changes as well. With one notable exception, no particular...

John, your issue sounds more like it's either in your switch or else a cold solder joint somewhere in the field coil. If it was the rivet/screw issue under discussion here, your mag would work fine when cold and then would fade once it got hot, not work intermittently from the get-go as you describe.

Based on varying experiences by different people, I suspect plastic coils are like reproduction New Day timers or currently available tire tubes—some OK, some not.

Better snap that one up JB before somebody else does! :)

Big wing Ford script on the radiator
Bob

Keith, I get it now. I don't have floorboards and without them your pictures were what I needed. Thanks, Art

I appreciate all the help! You never know what you will find in a pile of T parts! It takes a bunch of T nuts to know what every thing is.

Here is something else that I could not identify.
It is some sort of panel with a light.

F06DD717-5C8E-4A44-8CA3-F8FF63CDAE07.jpeg

Matt

It is missing some parts. There should be a shaft that goes in the hole in the side that connects to a piece with a hole in it that acts as a variable venturi as it turns. The twisted flat piece goes from the throttle arem to the arm on that shaft that makes it all work.

Not a bad little carb if they are all together and working.

I hate to burst your bubble Martin, but California license plates weren't produced by California Correctional Industries until 1948.

Prior to 1948, license plates in California were produced primarily by independent steel stamping plants mostly in Los Angeles. The early porcelain plates were made in Pennsylvania by the Ing-Rich Company.

My TT is a closed cab but the process of installing the top is generally the same. I took a bunch of pictures when I did it. Here’s the link to my thread.

I usually go to this meet. Mostly model A stuff. Good group of folks. I'm usually there less than an hour but I'm only 10 miles away. Don't think I'd drive very far in search of very few T parts. It is in a heated building.

WTB I saw your artical about your finds at Hershey and was wondering if you had an AJ metzger box with or without S/Plug for sale? I have a plug and would like to have a box for it.DW Shanabrook@gmail.com or 419 447 5254 or 419 447 5254 or 419 937 6284

www.restorationspecialties.com

You can buy loom by the foot.

I know this thread is about vintage chains but to hijack the subject slightly, a Google search brought up a few places that will make custom chains for any application - which I assume includes our Model T's. If you want a set of chains to allow you to operate your car more safely in the winter and don't care if they are new manufacture, that...

Now I know some one has to have an extra one? 143 people have looked? any one? would love to complete my set. Thanks Joe

If oil burning is not a problem i think it is a higher compression ratio that makes the need for colder plugs?? Bud. :D PS,There is a man in Indiana that sells spark plugs and has a cheap list that will show the many variations of Champ X. I can't find the list or remember his name?? Bud. :D

Btt

A mixture of parts to be sure. Just how much of a mixture is not so sure. The key is in the spindle arms. The photo is not angled right for the left side, but the right side is clearly a later (raised offset) arm. I think the left may also be a later one. As Steve T points out, the flats on the spindles make them later also. The drag link is not a...

You will need to fit the bronze thrust washers in that location too. There is more to it then just reducing the thickness of those thrust washers. You need to set the mesh of the ring and pinion then fit the other side so the cases do not get sprung when bolted together and not rotate or be too loose.
You need to buy ether;

or

We can help you...

Revision 1-D...it ocured to me that if the opening on the 1909-1910 was larger than I had originally thought, than maybe this one might just be also...it would figure that the more volume coming from the tank would apply enough pressure to force the fuel through the 1/4 inch valve and fuel line to the carburetor, by the sheer weight of the fuel...

The first group of gears shown are 28-34ish the 2ed group of photos are 35-48.

My 26 Fordor has HP 9460 stamped lightly on the lower left wood frame .

Not T, but...
The 'handle' has a specific form, is machined with a flange on the one side and has two holes for indexing on two pins so the reamer is in the exact position to ream the hole it is made for, but what is a mistery to me too :?

Hey Cam.
1000rpm crank = 1500rpm generator.

B7A7C30E-731A-45DB-BC81-36A6A97998A8.jpeg
I need one for this & one for my 26 coupe in the barn. 25 Tudor,1919 touring, 25 chassis . Oops I am running short!😊

A few replies - to all, thanks for your nice comments about my return to the sky and kind thoughts during my recovery.
Rusty.... Old Bloviator - gave me quite a chuckle.... It is probably a more accurate description---especially if you ask my wife.
Otrcman.... I had the knee surgery on Halloween and had finished PT. The knee had just gotten to the...

I got my fill of humorous buffoons, watching the Corvette guys itch and twitch about
the most micro-minute details, nitpicking the most absurd stuff with all the self-appointed
authority of the Spanish Inquisition. It was quite amusing. Sort of a cross between some
high school popularity contest and a high falootin' dog show. But with the...

I see a few differences between the pan in question and the one in the link Shane posted but all in all, they look to have come from the same place.

I mounted it in a vice and used a 3/4 drive ratchet to apply torque to it. I applied enough torque to feel it twist a little, but it springs right back. I do not see any signs of looseness.

Very nice
Good job

Michael

These photos were captured off this site, they are others, but as with any photos on the web, as long as you aren't selling the photos as your own, any can be used for reference. Your ad would just state, looking for similar oil can like the one in this photo found on the internet.

As I indicated earlier the lighting in the Craig's museum really affects colors. I'll have to check the pin strip color next time I'm there. The picture was taken with the warm interior lighting and bright sunlight from outside. Knowing Craig, it is was its supposed to be.

I can only speak for my Canadian 26, the door latch is 10 - 32, striker is 1/4 - 28, sill plate is 7/32 - 24.
The 10 - 32 looks very similar to the 7/32 - 24 the 10 - 32 is only .025 smaller than the 7/32. The taps and dies are still available for the 7/32 - 24 if you are familiar with KBC tools.

Using the org Ford grease cups/hubcaps you can easily force the water from your front wheel bearings! :D Bud. :D

Thanks for closing the loop on this challenge, John.

Have been following your challenge and it's great to hear of the positive outcome.

Joe

Yes, Walter was one of the 14 founding members of the AACA.

That tail light was used from about 1919 until mid 1924, when a new tail light was made that was built into the licence plate bracket. The new tail light continued on until the end of 1927 with a new mount to move it to the fender in 1926.

Great! While you are waiting for it you could get the magnets charged and doctor up a coil ring. :D

AHAAA. Makes sense now. The small holes are where the horn mounts. I won't be reusing this part. Thanks Charley!

The front and centre caps are different! I must go and check my stocks. I had never realised that.

Allan from down under.

Ford worked a strong newspaper advertising program with their dealers.
Here is another Cheaper Than A Horse add.
May/June period of 1908, Winona, Minnesota

I look at the classifieds usually every time I look at the forum. The forum is a discussion and question and answer place to go to. The classifieds are for
Buying and selling parts. I myself, am not asking what a value of something is worth on the forum as you can get various opinions or trying to locate a part, but I would not try to sell an...

They have a Woodcraft in Birmingham and a couple next door in Atlanta.

Sorry, Mr. Patrick! It's gonna hafta be the recorder..... There happens to be a Packers' game at the same time!!! 8-) :!: :!:

I hope you get it fixed. I've had problems with repro wiring, and have had a local company duplicate the original Ford wiring so it fits.

Scott: I fully agree with your assessment when using modern reproduction triple gears. The used parts method I outlined does not result in any alterations to the early gearbox, where there are no issues that prevent a full return to the original 4:1 setup, if so desired. As to the performance benefits, I don't drive these cars enough to notice a...

I should have taken pictures of the last 13 Touring I parted out. I know you guys would have loved to see that! Dan

When my Tex T gave up I took it to a local rebuilder. Working good again.

That doesn't surprise me. They're as simple as a Model T.

Oh no I am so sorry to hear about Brenda
I had the privilege of meeting Brenda in 2015
I am so sorry for to hear about your wife Mike

Thanks Leo

Dennis, those are an early version of the “modern safety hubs”. I was recently told.
No snap ring, so potentially you could lose a wheel if an axle snapped. But it’s still taking the weight off the axle and onto the housing. And no outer Hyatt bearing. I believe greatly lessening the chance of breaking an axle. Probably was set up in the late 60s...

Great that is a place for me to start. I was thinking Chevrolet but thought maybe the band would be too narrow.
11/23;
Did some checking, looks like at least in 25 the rear drums were 11 (id/od?) and would have had the rear mount point like most, not the clip like shown. Going to keep searching, maybe something will turn up.

Yes, I have done an exhaustive search for these parts. All on back order...

Thank you folks for the useful replies. I will work with the local brass shop and if that does not work out I will pursue help at Brittens or the shop is South Australia. The logistics are much easler when Lutz, FL is 25 minutes drive. Allen - feel free to forward my post to the restorer there. I would be interested in his comments if he has any.

Well that is one creative way to do it for sure. Sure like that old blue Roadster!

The tank will not come out the top on a '13 touring. I've always put the bolts in with the nuts on top. They can't come out, because they have a cotter pin in them. The Ford service book clearly shows this. I had to lift the body off the chassis on my '13 touring to remove the gas tank. On my '13 roadster, the tank barely comes out through the top.

As mentioned before by others definitely not a T ambulance light, but might be used on the bigger standard GMC ambulance, but i'm not very well informed about them to know for sure, could have been used on any US Army car or truck from the era.
All you can do is search the internet for period photo's of military cars and trucks of the day and have...

Adam

Those are all round tanks, early photo, posted a cropped version, and camera angle made the upright tanks seem oval :P

8FC2B36A-8272-4AD9-92AB-CD77EF2BCB7F.jpeg

After about 41,000km of driving over the last 17 years with only 6V, I'm still waiting for the points to wear out. And, top speed is around 75km/h on the freeway. It's all how it's set up.
However, coils I've restored for those who use them on 12V do have a shorter point life. You can tell the 12V users by all the black marks around the points.

Used until early 1911. I'm not sure what all the hooks and crooks were used for.

John
This is a common problem with worn Model T starters and one of the built in oil leaks on Model T engine.
The Model T generator has a similar issue.
The hole letting the excess oil drip out the bottom of the starter case was Ford's solution.
The solution is rebuilding the starter (new bushing) and adding an oil seal in the starter mounting...

Ed: You are right! I should have labeled it for what it is, Anzo Fasteners! I just didn't think that anyone other than purists like me would even be interested. Not all Anzo fasteners were used on T's, only some of them, therefore, most of the pictures that Dan Treace posted are not relevant.

I get one in Chinese about once a month. I called em back once. I am able to tell the in mandarin that I don’t understand Chinese but that didn’t help. It’s just a random call.
I have one that was bugged me about 410 dollars for a blood work up.
They just keep asking me how I wanted to pay it.
I told em finally that my lawyer is working with the...

No seal same as car Ruckstell. The sliding clutch gear and notch plate should block and keep most of the lube in the rear end anyway.
For the outer seals this might help;

Yeah, he knows how to work on Model T & Model A generators and starters for the locals and even stocks parts for them. :D

Sure that works when the engine is out of the car, a bit hard to use head bolt dowls when trying to get the head under the fire wall as well, if you have help to hold the head up off the gasket and then screw in a couple of dowl bolts then all will work.

Pictures of your cab and doors would help. Model T bodies and frames are very flexible. Is your cab mounted on a frame now? Make sure the frame is level, flat, and square and the cab mounts are level and square. If it is not on a frame now, you still need to have the mounting pads or brackets level, flat, and square before trying to make the doors...

Tyrone, perhaps a more important question is how others support the edges of the metal. I have two sets that I built a wood framework around the inside edges to support the back and properly attach the material. It ended up being about a 1 1/2 inch by two inch curved piece.With the compound curves it took a lot of wood. I have seen 1 1/2 inch by...

OP

do you in fact have an original (or similar) timer, or are you running a distributor?

Very different types of paint applications from the different factories of the day. Gravity flow painting was well suited to assembly line, Ford used that for bodies, and used vats of enamels for sheetmetal, along with drying ovens too. Later the steel bodies got spray painted by late 1925.

Other firms used spray painting very early, for enamels...