MTFCA Forum

No indent on our hood. Anyone else have a hood with a straight bottom?

I basically do the same thing only a screw slot and a magnet. Done it for years. Don

My dad used the same drums/shoes/wheel cylinders on my Fordor. Except, he made new backing plates, heavy enough for the job. He also used the GM parking brake parts, actuated by the T parking brake.

Murray Fahnestock's article on magneto for FordOwner magazine describes the magnets as tungsten steel.

Forged to shape and then heat quenched.

And here is discussion on a modern version:

Well Im getting close to getting started. I had a nice talk with Hank Lee last week. He explained some things and sent some great photos of fenders he made. I have a shrinker stretcher coming from Eastwood. Hank spent alot of time with me on the phone, what a wealth of knowledge. Im sure I will be bending his ear again with questions. My next step...

Wow. I did not know what to expect. I have met Brian Blain, and a couple of his friends about twenty years ago. They have driven the number 17 on a few of the Santa Clara Valley Model T Ford Club's Endurance runs. He was quite passionate about the cars back then, and I am quite pleased to see that he still is. I have had the pleasure of driving...

Well, that’s the dilemma. I have tried all I know to increase the fuel. I suppose there is the potential of increasing the fuel by changing the geometry of the venturi inside but I don’t know how to tweak it. The car idles beautifully and now accelerates smoothly to beyond the speeds I intend to drive. So, I guess I have circumvented the system to...

Mike

Nice tool work.

Have done similar with a modified long masonry star drill.

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Would like to find this tool, made for the job! Curved to bump out the inner or outer race.

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Thanks for the photos, Paul. Nice installation. I hope to do as neat a job. Thanks again.

Here's my first model T...a '20 runabout....followed me home on my friends open trailer I believe March 2012. Drove it right off the front of his trailer! At that point being such a newbie I still hadn't retained that when you PUSH the clutch the car KEEPS moving!! Amazing how quick things happen on a 16 foot trailer! The car wasn't hurt but my...

Google MTFCA: tool kit . That should get you a list and pictures.

Thanks for the compatibility issues,
good thing to know. I have had some really bad reactions in the past.
Thanks Again

I too rode the Durango and Silverton when it was owned by the D&RGW railroad. It is a trip that every railfan should have on his/her bucket list.

Paul,

We purchased 6volt 3 function LED light bulbs from England, special order. I remember they had 12-volt bulbs standard. I'll have to go back and find the info if I can. When I find it, I'll post it here for you. Sorry, I don't have it on hand.

Good Luck,
Terry

Thanks David - I sent a message.
That helps but I would still like to find a phone number for him.

Arrived home safely after 2750 miles in the truck and about 650 miles on the T😊

Been a long time since I had my center-door. Looks about how I remember the driver's bottom cushion.

When I was 14, I put in my first peddle shafts. The brake peddle came loose, two times. That is two hogs head removals. I didn't like that.

We had a can full, about a quart FORD can of peddle pins NOS, that were cold roll metal. Also we had a big box full of NOS peddle, and high speed shafts.

Drilling the pin holes over size, should never be...

I don't think that style was used on a Ford.

If there is sufficient timing advance, a decent timer, and coils properly set up (equal dwell time to fire works well) 6V operation is fine.
Two of the other T's that I drive, belonging to friends, are also 6V but have working magnetos. I set up their ignition systems also, but just out of habit forget to use the magneto. Again, they run fine and...

No suprise here Don. You do wonderful work! Congrats.

Hey? For a dollar? How can you go wrong? I think if someone posts an ad with the price given as a dollar? They should have to sell it for a dollar
Otherwise, it looks like a six thousand tops car to me (as others have said). And five thousand would be closer to right.

Thanks, $5,000 is about what I was thinking too. I'll look for something more...

The magneto is AC so I dont think it matters which goes to the mag post.

Hi, Rob. As always, I enjoy reading your posts. This clears up a question I've in my mine for along time as to whether Mr. Ford was involved with one or two companies before Ford Motor Co. Thank you. Bob

I had a job wrangling veteran machinery for a WW1 TV series called Anzac Girls , a tribute to the role of nurses in that conflict. I was daunted by having to start and drive a 7-8 litre 4 cylinder Albion truck. It was really a piece of cake. Once the oil was pumped to the rods and crankshaft, I'd flick the switch on the magneto and have at it....

Sounds like you have pretty well diagnosed it.

Please consider posting the results once you remedy your problem. All too often these sort of things pop up and the poster disappears after the initial quiery. Best of luck.

Thanks Hank

Great story and pics. Thank you for posting.

Update, he contacted me this morning. He sprayed everything with WD-40 last night. This morning the clutches released and its working as it should. Problem is not likely solved but it is working. I will be waiting on his call.

Only way to deal with old dried out glue joints is to take the pieces apart, clean the old glue out, apply new glue, and clamp the joints and the circumference. Brads are not used. If you have tight fitting joints water resistant wood glue is good, if there are gaps in the joints epoxy is better. Squeezing new glue into a joint with old dried out...

Allan,

Is the transmission stub shaft dated?

Ken P

Dale
I have added one plate and two gaskets for you
Others, this project is now finished and closed off!!

Adam:
If you will look at the top edge of your coilbox, there are traces of the original red stain. You are fortunate to have that box. Randall Andersons brother Jon can make you a new lid. I've discovered not all 1913 KW lids are interchangeable! I've probably owned a half dozen 1913 KW coil boxes over the years.

Yes Dave, I was able to get on Sunday night :D but had to re-register, which was no issue. I'm glad they got it back so everyone can access the 2019 forum . . . it's been a looong six months!

LOL .. well, I saw no cars made before 1960 while I was there. About thirty members of the Alfa Romeo Owners Club arrived where we were staying one weekend. They were on a tour on the amazing mountain roads in that area but they told me the guys with the older cars didn’t come due to rain in the forecast.

Yes.

p/n 4869 Bolt, 5/16-24. Rear fender to body

what Scott said- press the gear toward the tapered end, remove the keepers, put axle in lathe and widen the keeper groove toward the gear end, replace keepers, press gear back against keepers, make thicker spacer . . . . . . done

:D well Frank that's a nice picture of a touring car in front of the building that you posted much appreciated

Those spots are correct for the harness clips, #7688, under the drivers side water outlet bolt, and another clip under the large hex head bolt on the timing gear cover. The correct clips have large diameter hole to fit to these large bolts.

As noted in Ford Manual:

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Looks like powder post beetles got hold of it. That epoxy is great stuff.

1924 last use, have seem most of the pocket style high head bolts in 1922-24 cylinder heads. Some of the earlier flat head types can be found with Inspector marks on the head of the bolt.

From Bruce's C-D Encyl.
2-18-24 Redesigned, specifying threads to be rolled instead of cut. This changes the diameter of stock from .428 - .432 to .380-.384”...

Andre.... continued:

For a 1926-27 car assembled in Denmark, England etc. -- they used the DR front axle and DF wishbone but the standard style USA type front spindles. Ref: Also ref page 180 of the English Ford Book vol 1.

Respectfully submitted,

Hap l9l5 cut off

Thanks...I had a few other things to order as well, so I just put in the order.

I was going to mention what Original Smith said in my earlier post. Old gas works well for a cleaner. If it’s a gallon or so save it for cleaning your T parts. Get a container and let your T nuts and bolts or other small parts soak for cleaning. Anything less go pour on your fence line for edging.

I have several winter storage jacks that fit under the rear seat - same principal - handy for cold starting on the hand crank !

The early timers seem to have the metal segments imbedded into the fiber material so one cannot physically see how much contact is remaining after machining unlike later Ford timers that the steel contact edges are visible bedded into the fiber.

I live in Southern California, so am used to city driving. Stop and go driving is not a problem to me because those in front of me are usually faster and so they leave me stopping distance. Also my brakes work pretty well at a slow speed.
My biggest fear is on the highway out of town. I try not to use freeways if I can avoid them, however, the...

After reading this thread I thought it was about time I got my car insured, still dont have it on the road yet but have alot of money into it.
So I got quotes from JC Taylor, Hagerty and Grundy, Hagerty was the most and JC Taylor was the cheapest, Grundy was in the middle. All you guys say JC is excellent so im going with them

I think that the pin gets damaged from the camshaft hammering it went the cam moves back and forth. I was leaning toward building up the pin by welding or maybe brazing some material on it and then fitting it to the hole. I new pin would not change the clearance much. The nearing is still in good shape, so I do not want to change that to get a...

I have seen a 1919 T school bus up here in the Rochester, NY area a few times at local shows.

Any idea where I can purchase something like those springs?

Ryan,
I have the radiator from Bob's in my possession. I am re-packaging so that it will fit in my daughter's car trunk. She and her spouse will be in Nashville July 27th thru July 29th. I will give her your contact information so that you can pick it up. By the way, it is a very nice radiator.
KRW

Been there .... done that .... and survived !

Enjoyed the story Bob. Thanks for sharing your experience and positive attitude. We used to have a car show in my town. Several years ago I took a junky ‘29 Ford open pickup and won a ‘Best Antique’ award. The next year I brought a really nice ‘26 roadster and a fellow with a junky ‘24 touring won the award. It became apparent to me the award was...

I just bought and gave to a friend, who is also a T owner, a die cast 1923 T firetruck that was 4wd. If I find another I will buy one to keep. The one I gave to him was a birthday present.

Well said Steve J! And thank you Will R for the report! I still hope to do one of these runs one day myself. I would probably be one of the unprepared cars, but I would enjoy it just the same.

FJ & Scott - I'll be darned! In checking Google, there's a Redneck Trailer Supply in Fresno, CA. that serves all the west coast too! Guess that'll teach me, huh? 😀.....harold

I believe that due to the TT having the battery box next to the running board, the shift rod going rearward goes straight back whereas on the passenger car equipped w/electric starting equipment with the factory battery holder, the shift lever goes to the passenger side to cross over the torque tube in order to miss the battery.

Thanks to everyone for the helpful suggestions. I got the answer I was hoping to get, I don't need to buy the tool to do the job. I can hold on to my $30.00 for something I really need. I hope to be installing both manifolds in a couple of weeks That is if I can finds enough time between Drs. appointments. I hope to get the engine back in my 1919...

Nice, I like BOTH pics! Thanks James.
Larry, did you even look at James' pic? :lol:

Thanks! Gotta say that I like it more in its current state simply because I've gotten to drive it around, despite a cracked low speed drum.

I know Larry - :roll: I have a number of the same studs that Otis had machined.

There is no thing high speed on a Model T. There is only slow and slower.

Yeah, and the splash apron even had the nickel strip. I've only ever seen one of those.

You are better off just swapping ends with the axle and leaving the perches alone. Now would be a good time to make sure your spindles are not on the wrong side also. That can be dangerous.

So much for being original!

Said the guy whose Model T has a Scat crank and high-compression head.

Here is an update on my fan pulley/shaft issue. First, one of my sealed bearings went bad and had to be replaced. Why, I assume just a dud bearing? Anyway…it made the most awful “metal” noise that initially I thought was coming internally from the engine block – thankfully it wasn’t, just a bad bearing in an all but new pulley.

So yesterday...

Yup, 3634-L is a 26-27 car chassis firewall, as listed in the ford price list of parts book.

There is a plate made that has cutouts for the valves and clys for sale at a vendor. Let’s you look at the top of block or head while you test it. Dan

David, that non original petcock looks to have a slotted head screw to hold the turning piece in place. That is the problem with the early original style petcocks. If that screw comes loose, the petcock can/will open and there goes the fluid. When this happened on my 1912 van, I wired it shut; ugly but effective. I have since jetisoned the...

Even though it seems really close I was ok at that light. It’s a long duration at that spot and not a cross street, just a yield one coming from the right and no one was there. Driving in the city is a very different experience than out in the country in a model T, you really have to be on your toes. As far as the chatter, yes I would say it’s 95...

The above message was just a rest, but I over did it.

Nice to see this 2019 Forum actually working again!

This car is no longer for sale.

There is no great demand for magneto horns and you could likely buy a nice one for what it would cost to repair yours.

Steve, I agree the broken piece is earlier. I do not know when the rolled steel type were introduced. However, I believe this broken one is a cast reproduction, rather than an original forging. A forging will bend considerably before it will fail. This one shows no distortion before the failure, just a clean break. The nut and L piece also look...

I think you need to think outside the box on this one and consider how much money
you will save in cancelling your gym membership, and how great a physical fitness
program it would be just to push the car instead of relying on it moving under it's own
power. You will be able to shovel 20 tons of coal with the best of them after a few
months of...

We'll all miss you on the tour. It is always a good one. Heal!

An Optima battery will fit diagonally across a standard Model T battery box as pictured above. You will have to raise the height of the Optima so it is level with the battery box. You will also need to fabricate handles for each end if you plan to have handles for the lid.

Repost of picture

Use Mike's number! jb

I’m thinking that piece is off of the later Ford tractors after 1954. But then I don’t remember seeing the Ford logo on the ones I worked on. Maybe I didn’t notice. Ford made farm equipment implements for a while and I have some. They have a Ford tag riveted to the framework but the small parts don’t any Ford logo embossed on them that I’ve seen....

I riveted them, but I JB Welded only on the ends..maybe an inch in. Make sure it is all clean bare metal. I blasted my metal and taped the ends so they would remain bare after painting. I riveted them on and pulled gently up on the ends, smeared JB Weld in, and clamped them. Then I ground the the ends at a taper when it was all dry, so the drum...

This is the link that is currently on the Vowell drawing page, and it is incorrect.

Fixed.

Thanks, I have been unable to work on the T for a few days. I had a heart cath Friday last, but am doing much better now. Cooler temps are in the forecast for our area for the next several days and I hope to get caught up on a few things. :D

This is the Model T instruction.

Note: If you have a 26/27 reproduction ammeter it is not accurate enough to perform this procedure. You can place an older style or other more accurate ammeter in line between the VR and harness battery wire to make the third brush adjustment.

Voltage regulator.pdf

Good finds. Little issues like these wrenches solve is part of the reason I have a stash of Wang Fooey wrenches in a drawer.IF I need to grind 1 or bend 1 to fit something odd,I use a off brand from that drawer.

I made my own firewall from baltic birch, referencing a pdf I found online and an original 1919 firewall I was able to examine. Since I added a starter to my 1917 the 1919 was appropriate.