MTFCA Forum

Looks like you done it right!

The car in the family photo background looks like a 1929 Model A Ford. The wheels are 21 and front fenders are late 1928-1929 A. The beading along the body belt line looks more like 4 door blind back,with two bumps and not large flat area, but it is not very clear in photo on my computer and I can't see the cowl. If the body belt is the large flat...

Thanks all!

I’ll start at the battery and see where to go from there. Yes the battery is brand new and I tested it already and it’s good. When I initially tried with the old battery I would get power to the horn and lights etc and the coils would buzz. I’ll try retracing the power and start with the ground. I’ll keep everyone updated, thanks!

The oil groove was the circumference cut by 1919 at the latest. I have two Ford drawings of the spindle bolt, one dated 8-7-19, and the other 4-28-22, both have the groove around the shaft, the older one being 9/16 below the bolt head, the newer one being 1/2 below the head.

Yes, I did. It cleans, but it won't restore a radiator that's shot. I bought a new Berg's. Sometimes cleaning is all you need, and sometimes not.

The owner of the restoration shop would always say “Slow down and think, don’t work like your killing snakes”. Another one he would say “If it was easy everybody would do it” or “It’s like your making a career out of it”. He was a true believer in that your life’s work needs to mean something. In his years when he was too old to work he would stop...

Yeah we did have a great day Tim !
Especially Bill, I think he was a little dumbfounded when they gave him the Major award ! :lol:

A little windy today though, no T today... :shock:

Thanks again Keith!

and thanks to MTFCA for a terrific forum

At a recent tour I saw a man with a tee shirt that said 6 Volt Guy Living in a 12 Volt World .. Says it all.

I did one once. Sprayed the ribbons with Dolph brand insulating paint. I think is was probably Glyptol (sp?) Then used cotton tape, soldered it all together and used the same insulating paint for the whole thing.

I agree it is a lot of work and now would pay someone else to do it!

: ^ )

John

Nice job! Like those dimples...will do that in the future.

Yes, lots of oil thrown, since the oil screen has that nice angled plate, larger holes would dump right on the bands and drums, and importantly the triple gears/bushings too. That oil screen diverter plate might block some of the thrown oil that would normally hit the inspection...

The bracket factory number would be for a touring, '15-'21.

For the neat dual lamp, Ford supplied a single bulb elec. tail lamp beginning 1919. Those dual lamp taillamps are aftermarket accessory.

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I missed the picture of the white boxer...
But it was a dog & pony show ... :lol:

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Saw a rainbow too !! :)

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If you don’t avail yourself of Facebook and Instagram
then you are missing out on a LOT of interesting visits
and vehicles that I document on a daily basis at times ....

This past week:

1922 Model T Pick Up & Delivery

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1906 Cadillac Model K Pick Up & Delivery...

There's more than one smile in that picture, and none of them seem really sad to be there...

I know if I had something like that car in MY shop I wouldn't be sad at all!!

Well thats where they will stay. I mounted them this afternoon.
Thanks for the input guys as alway.

Note: if you a stickler, the straps sold by vendors such as Lang's are not correct. They are substantially thicker than the originals, they have two decorative grooves in them which the originals did not have and the buckles are completely incorrect. They are functional but I would consider them to be after-market and not a good facsimile of...

Thanks Hap. Yes, I've seen this but I'd really like to view it in motion. No doubt over the years somebody has captured it on film in one format or another.

Cool stuff. It's a long way for me so I always enjoy the pictures.
Maybe someday.
Thanks
Rich

You're welcome Scott! Thanks for the nice comments. I love this car, drive it a good 2,000 miles a year. Probably more now that I am down to only two Ts!! Unfortunately I do doubt these tires will last 40 years!!! LOL I'll be happy if I get 3 years running out of 'em!

I soak them in automatic transmission fluid. I have changed one lining without soaking successfully, but next time I changed it the rivets didn't want to go in as they should. Change of material perhaps? I soaked it and no problem.

If you wan to sell, just holler. Saw one sell recently on ebay.

What you are explaining is typical of old engines not being balanced.
We're so used to modern cars and forget what original cars are like.

It can be corrected by balancing the internal engine parts. Rods,pistons crank, flywheel.
Most often when the magnets come off others of random weights are re installed. For example the exchange magnet...

Richard

EXCELLENT and correct point! I have trouble making the adjustable guides work perfectly, too. You can purchase any solid guide you want, though, and I have subsequently invested in a number of them. Very good of you to make that point.

After carefully assessing the situation and evaluating the comments on this and other forums, I chose to go with loctite 660 - it's curing right now but I believe it will do the job. Thanks to everyone for your advice, I always appreciate it.

Drats, I was hoping not to have to remove both rod arms, but it is what it is.
Thanks for the replies.

TO THE WORKSHOP!!!!

You HAVE to remove the old rivets - Dremel cut-off wheel then a punch or drill them out.

Sure looks like fire damage to me. The steering wheel is melted away from the spider, paint peeling off.
Looks like a salvage effort by all the various people.

BYW, the bolts down the center of the block (#1, 2 , 3 , 4, 5) holding the cyl. head are the most important to have tight, the space between the cylinders is slim.

The gasket is thinnest at this point. Proper cyl. bolt tightening sequence is to pull those center bolts down first, to squish the new gasket, getting best seal. Then alternate the...

Thanks Jay for so many years of great support to our hobby!

Respectfully submitted,

Hap l9l5 cut off

James got it sorry I did reply. I was on the road that day. I have 2 low shells, nice ones. Dan

Thank you! Don't know if the little bit of brass will be an issue, but as it is part of the crimp that keep the parts together I think I will leave it.

Thank you Corey.

Thanks oldav8tor. That’s some great news I’ll check out those tix prices
@rob Patterson Great pics. Thanks for posting those
Thank you everybody. Keep the trip tips coming :D

I'm assuming that this is available from most vendors ($12 at Langs). Money well spent!

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Not Driving it, I have the MTFCA glass diagram book. I want to change the frame to a 23-5 open car need the DIMENSIONS of the windshield frame, both upper and lower to possible refit in the existing window opening in the homemade wooden cab? If the 23-5 windshield will work then I will go shopping for those.

After I went to bed last night I thought also that maybe the pan arms are bent like Allan and Scott mention above. It should be checked on a pan bench by someone experienced in straightening them. It's well worth the money in my opinion.

Keith

No dope slap necessary. All three things were wrong and especially had you continued to run with the cracked magnets you could have been in for the BIG BANG. They could have flown off and caused great damage. Anyway, it should run well for a long time.
You did well.
Norm

Finally got them out, it was a battle but all the springs are in reasonable condition.
Thank you all for your replies.

I would like the brake pedal to slow the car about 1/3 depressed and lock the wheels 2/3 down. If it goes to the floor - scary.
A good stop in a T can often be made by simply backing the gas to an idle and coasting to a stop. Hopefully the hand brake never needed. Put bands in my 12 in about 92. Thousands of miles since and rarely touch it.

Hi Dave, Yes, you have a stud missing on both of them. The extra hole is for a padlock and chain to prevent theft of the spare tire.

Keith

Thank You Steven

FJ

Dave Hanlon is hooking me up with the right stuff.
By Tims post of MP cab, maybe 12 x 20 rear window?

Here's a couple pan pics. The inspection cover is with it, and at first glance it looks to be a standard 4 dip cover. Note that the wishbone ball joint sits on top of the bracket instead of below it.

Thanks for the heads up on the links. I had kind of done a canvas of old content and didn't come up with much in the way of going through one. I did...

The seat back spring in my 24 Coupe was painted. It had a thin coat of black paint on it. It looked like the paint drip dried on the spring. It was original to the car. The 2 seat cushion springs weren’t painted. They were rusted.
The burlap cotton cover that was under the upholstry had a stenciled black T part no. on it. I sent a pic of it to...

Dallas you need to come down yonder and play some time.

Ya hear!

All the Best,

Hank

We all have our moments... :lol:

With no oil filter, there may be a fair amount of that in the engine. Like said above, if the magnet is rather new, you'll get that until most of its gone. After that, it will diminish.

Use a good 3 corner file and recut the teeth.

The cover looks original, but it's one of Mike Lebsak's reproductions. It screws directly onto the oversize stem. The only rim nut is the round knurled one shown in the photo.

Moderators........not trying to turn this into a political thread by any means, but.......

I watched a fascinating video about a British research team drilling ice cores at either the north or south pole (can't remember). The cores were analyzed for gases and particulate matter going back almost 300,000 years. They found a massive increase in...

Are your drums gouged out or deeply pitted? If they aren’t or if they have a minor groove and are not deeply grooved just get you sand paper and smooth them up to remove the rust.
You can chuck them up in a lathe and get you strips of sand paper and smooth them that way if you want.
First check them for any hairline cracks.

Do not remove more...

Thanks for posting Mike. Even though I don't own a '26 pickup, I like to know those things. As far as the wood goes, Gator got me my wood several years ago. He got me 4/4 rough Southern Yellow Pine, which is hard stuff. I milled it down to 13/16 on my driveway, and ripped each board to the correct width. I rabbeted the left and right sides down...

Have used the Lang's blocks on two '26-27 restores, and the blocks are correct, have angled holes needed for proper placement of the hood clips, and groove in right place for headlamp wire loom, and other holes. They have correct height to fit right, and all in all like stock, and made of hardwood.

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On this one, installed thin...

Beautiful work. I was able to meet RV at Bakersfield. Very Nice!!

Hi, Yes Maxwell. I am interested in purchasing if it is for sale . It looks like it was made into a trailer with no springs. jw

Yes Dan, here in California we had Brown Rot times four and now we have Brown Rot to the second power which equal's Gavin Baby !

We don't like to weld on a crank, but what is done is done.

The bolts that come with the weights, we do not use, as we had a set come loose once. Nothing hurt, as they just slide back and fourth about 1/4 inch, but you can hear them. We have used about 175 sets, and never any trouble, I like them very much.

We use Caterpillar, bolts, and castle...

All radiator aprons with a hole for the screw are not for 1926-27 cars. 3977-F has the hole, but it is for 1926-27 TT trucks.
The radiator apron started in1924-25 as part 3977
In 1925 Ford came out with an accessory nickel plated radiator and apron. that apron is 3977-B. (See Bruce's Black Book, page 566)(It is listed on Ford Letter, April 30,...

The UPS truck is coming down the street. It’s slowing. Slowing. Slower. Stopping. It’s stopping. ITS STOPPING AT MY HOUSE. HEY MY PARTS ARE HERE. I hope the wife doesn’t want to talk or anything this evening.

Three things are needed for a dependable T.
A good radiator for cooling
Good tires for driving,
A good fuel system which begins at the gas tank.

If one of those three has problems you won’t be driving your T for any length of time.

With the wheels off the ground, car in neutral, the nature of the beast is; the wheels will still spin because of drag from oil between the disk. That is just the way it is and is nothing like a dry clutch. ;)

We put grease Zerks in those, also.

Herm.

Very interesting! Thank you both! I will do some googling on these vehicles and edify myself! :D

Might be easier to find / use the correct manifold ... right? It’s not like they are impossible to find. I imagine adding a header would put the geometry in a place that causes other fitting problems.

If the car was assembled with Timesaver, it is broken in. If it was bored, it is not, and the mains and rods will appreciate a little babying. If it was reamed, hard to tell condition and size of reamer and to treat as if bored.

Importantly, the oil should be changed once the engine has about 1-2 hours on the clock (my preference).

Thanks Randy,
I do remember him from Chickasha.

The S, when it appeared in late fiscal year (September) 1907, was advertised as an in beteeen of Models N at $600 and R at $750. The R was quickly phased out with the S Roadster appearing in the spring of 1908. The major differences between S and R runabouts are the rounded trunk and 30 inch tires on R vs. 28 inch tires and N style pointed trunk...

It is a glass bowl and filter. While the photos are dark and small, the filter looks pretty plugged up. My OP; you need to pull the tank and clean it or it will just be a constant fight to keep clean and fuel flowing. Even small bits can keep the carb float valve from closing.

Thanks for the info. I'll set the DVR for it!

Might check position of the rings on that piston. Had one rebuild that fouled #1, valves were ok, but pulled the piston and found one ring up-side down and the taper was pushing up the oil.

Used a hone and scuffed the bore, replaced the ring correct side up, put piston back, and no more issues.

Hi Kerry,

do you have any further information for this topic?

If the geometry is visualy that far wrong you spot it on install
Heres my left hand shift put the front pivot same location as stock center shift L&R except 4 closer

If you have the equipment or free access to it, fixing them yourself is worthwhile. If not, it's probably better to bite the financial bullet and pay the $150 for new ones.

Len,

When I clicked on your link it took me to the photo shown below. IF that is the photo you meant, and IF the fenders, hood, radiator, are of the same style that originally came on the car from the factory, it would be a 1917 or later. All those items could be changed out (bolt on items).

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There are quite a few photos out...

Update; dropped in a 22 mm long socket down the tube and a 3/4 x 4’ wood dowel (all I had handy) made sure to clear the rivets, three hits with a three lb. and popped right out. Ordered up new parts, cleaned up waiting patiently for ups 😂.

Use a Teflon tape or anti-seize compound. If you use the thin white Teflon tape, use several wraps. The yellow or pink stuff is thicker and works better on the plug threads. The copper based anti-seize compound works the best for me.

Boy, was I wrong! I should have blasted the thing BEFORE asking.

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Getting it naked revealed the Transue Williams mark, the letter U , and the Ford logo. I gather this would be in the twenties after they started putting the Ford mark on just about everything.

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There's also an upside-down 51 near the...

Originals show paint in the stamped metal lettering.

1919 from illustration
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1926 non-starter
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1919 with large nickel handle
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Golden Gate tour starts Monday, you could do both. About 2 1/2 hours apart, 3 1/2 with Sunday traffic. I80 isn't much fun these days.

Andy

Unfortunately, even those charts can be found with temperatures for the same oil all over the board. That one is especially suspect as my modern car says to use 5W20 PERIOD, and didn't bother to ask what the temperature was where I live, but according to that chart if it's above 14*F I shouldn't use it.

Too much to post here. This post would be way to long.

My 26 Roadster had a lot of sludge and rust in the radiator and block. I tried Dawn dish soap, Purple Power, vinegar and a lot of flush cycles. They all did a little bit of good, but not much. I then used Thermocure. It is a cooling system cleaner from Evaporust. Far better result. I had to buy a second bottle and do it twice to get it really...

Surveying
Cant find a shop drop me a note my plater here is old school and will listen and follow my instructions
Got alot of guys in central California giving my stuff
And comes back impressive

Hi Jeff,
That particular road was so full of potholes and corrugations, I had to drive where it was smoothest LOL :D
But it was still safer than trying to do a drone shot on a busy motorway :D
- Mitch

My filler on the gathering of parts is totally different i assume it to be a repop.Enough now I will get on trying to learn how to post pics with an I Phone. If any body has pics of thr filler I would love to see. thanks. IN closing Clair carleson and I will be driving our rdpu from Jackson Hole to Billings on the July Tour.

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Dan, I sent you an email thru the forum. It may be in your spam email.

They work great on my speedster!

You skipped a step installing the beads. First use a 1/8 drill and drill out the valve stem through its base. There is a restricted point right where the stem connents to the tube and it is very difficult to get the beads through that point if you don't drill it out.

Iornhorse got it correct
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Good to hear another T will have new life. Keep us posted and a few photos would be nice.