MTFCA Forum

Does the Model T in photo 7 need a bit of front end alignment?

I suspect it is a photo of a photo. With a camera held close but at a slight angle can create significant distortion of the image. Seen it many times.

The original door panel fasteners had the snap in socket that goes in the door frame, what you are calling nuts, and ring shank nails on the door panel held on with speed nuts. As you found out they do not come apart gracefully. That system of fasteners was replaced for the Model A in 1928 with a single spring clip. The spring clips will allow the...

I beleive that Model T number 90 was from the Woodhead collection sold in Minnesota in 2004. It was reported by several persons that the engine block was a reproduction. Several castings were made of the pre 2500 block.. I saw one at Chickasha. I had visited the Woodhead collection several times and knew John Woodhad I, II, and III. John I owned a...

The Greater St. Louis Chapter has been doing 'Rapid Assembly' demos throughout the region since 2005. We've done it at nursing homes, in the parking lot of a Children's cancer hospital, at an endless number of car shows big and small, even at the Indiana State Fair a few years ago. Our assembly times range from 6 mins 30 secs to about 13 mins...

Welcome to the forum Tom from about 30 miles west of you (New London Twp)

Lots of great folks here!

God Bless
Bill

Don, my auto electrician son always solders a ground wire from the bulb socket to one of the rivet heads holding the light bucket to the mounting stem to ensure there is contact between the two rather than relying on casual contact between them as installed.

Allan from down under.

Thanks Derek, just what I wanted!

I hope several more guys (or ladies) will check the temperature of their pumpkin.

Yes, but even with bad condensers his coils should still buzz.

Only until the points don’t make a good electrical connection anymore…

Thanks again Dan. Very informative!

My T education continues.

Great photo, David. The Runabout was $345 in 1917.
This 1923 ad shows the Touring for $295. A similar one for the Runabout was $265. I can't find it.
23AD295.jpg
I remember telling an old timer at work about the Runabout selling for only $265 and he warned me. Don't let them try to fool you. They never got that cheap. I recall how young and...

If you looking for tools I have a bunch altho I sold a bunch of the more odd ball stuff at the little hershey show few weeks back

I can't help with the hitch, but wanted to comment on your camplet. It looks very similar to our Combi-Camp 404 that my parents bought new in 1984. We did many fun family trips with that camper- and at the time (I was 9) it was light enough that I could unhook it and set it up myself- it weighed about 400 lbs and set up in 15 seconds. Your camper...

I'll assume you're working with just the right half, with the differential/axles and ring/pinion set in and the driveshaft bolted in place with 3 bolts, as you're doing setup.

Is the driveshaft cotter pin installed? The last one I built I used too big of a pin and it would hit in one spot on the differential. Changing to a smaller cotter pin...

The rod will get more friction than the cap because it is pushing down when firing and pushed up when on compression. The cap is only dragged along by the movement of the rod. However by drilling a hole in the center of the cap with a dippper, it will pump more oil into the rod if it is X'd. The Model A actually had the dippers built into the...

Back home...some more pics of the last part of our tour. What a great day. Bit windy on the way back to our trailers in Tiffin but we survived. It was nice being in Stanley the Fordor! We stopped and visited a good friend of Joe Bells..what a place and collection they have. I believe their name was Dan & Pat Shields.
They have a couple of the most...

Any progress with your generator problem fix?

That looks like a Oberdorfer brass gear pump they can be purchased with a adjustable relief valve built in. You maybe can buy just the head new?
The grease zerks indicate it could also be a Dayton.
Oberdorfer-Pump.png
Craig.

David

Should be interest, do know that Jack Putnam, OH, had a batch of the Steven’s frame and long alignment rods made, and sold them all. Maybe he may make more? Those cutting tools of Dan Hatch for the Steven’s Dan still supplies. The inserts are available in Lang’s catalog.

The below pictured fuel valve is currently for sale on eBay, item #224926067913, if you need a new handle, or parts. Buy it now price of $50.00 + $13.00 shipping. Jim Patrick

IMG_8779.jpeg

bttttttttttttttttt

Looks like a good place to tour. I like your cars too. We are looking forward in just over a week from now to tour the back country around San Diego. National Tour.
Norm

Another great time. I did a quick Youtube looking at a few of the cars.

A number of factors affect the way coolant, whether it's water or antifreeze mixtures, behaves in a cooling system. The temperature of the coolant at the water outlet does not tell the whole story of how the coolant is performing in critical areas, such as around the exhaust valve ports, or how well it resists foaming, forming insulating bubbles...

Thanks for the info.

Terry, where did you find this outer stainless piece? Was it a random find or did you order it from somewhere?

Checking Google
Deal here make's 3 1-footers

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Walk in

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Summit on eBay likely this shipping is better

Frank, after checking the examples that you found, I noticed that the one I bought off...

Allan,

I think it is a two-man style top. Maybe not exactly like the ones Ford USA or Canada used but at least similar. Notice what appears to be the top iron under the driver's right hand. Also note that the bow stack is very similar to the one on our 1918. Sorry -- my T books are in a brown box among many other brown boxes so that is the best...

Good eye Wayne. But doesn’t it have a brass radiator and accessory 5 lug demountables too ?

I am fairly sure it does have the five lug accessory demountable wheels. The radiator? That small corner of the photo lacks sufficient detail to be certain about the radiator itself. It looks to me to have a shell over probably a brass radiator, and the...

Saturate with MEK and keep it saturated until it softens. You can do this by continually painting the MEK on the areas you want to remove with an old paint brush or get a rag and pour MEK on it and press the saturated rag into the nooks and crannies. This will keep the MEK against the surface longer, before it evaporates. Ventilate the room good....

I've been catching US 12 at Coldwater. From there to Detroit some of it is OK, and some of it is pretty sorry. :)

Thanks everybody!

Drove to the swap meet, left at 4:15 AM. This was somewhere at about 5:00

Magneto headlights, long exposure with lots of vibration and veering over the line

swap meet.jpeg

Is your spark control linkage working right?

Tom, those are excellen t proportions. Very good eye.

I'm putting together an engine and would like to used my Anderson flapper type timer. The Anderson or Anco timer needs to be retarded more than a
I could just run a linkage over the water pipe... or make a longer timing rod, or ...?

I am open to suggestions.

Keith, I think that I had to rebend the external oil line a bit too. Even then, my...

Who made the body?

Pretty sure that Larry Smith's cars all produce the original noise or lack thereof!

Here’s another fun painting ! As we know, early on there were some pretty stringent anti-automobile statutes passed in some localities before motorists got the upper hand. Here, the rules of the road require motor vehicles to yield to horses, livestock and pedestrians, but it seems most motorists are either ignorant of the law, or choose to ignore...

If you want to avoid getting scammed don't included you phone number or email address in your posting. That is scammer candy. It not necessary to be a MTFCA member to do a simple search across all postings to get a hit on members using a popular email provider like yahoo, gmail and even outlook.

So if you want to minimize your exposure, request...

. . . when I install the hogshead, I put the nut on the pedal shafts BEFORE fitting the cover. Can that not be done on LHD cars?

I don’t know about the earliest hogsheads (square hole) but I always put the nuts on the pedal shafts before fitting the cover on my ‘13 LHD car.

No need for any extra fancy tools to tighten the back bolts on the T head. Just use the original Ford wrench because of length it is built to only pull 45-50 foot pounds of torque by most people.

Photo from the Model T Service Manual. Early timing gear puller (four spoke) and steering wheel puller.

The HCCT was about the best equipment available for a long time.

They should go under the rear quarter belt rail where the window assembly goes. The original felt window channel sits in them.

Folks Kevin and I gotton together I will say his work is top notch and he has done several over there years for me

That STS is designed for the early coils and has the bottom coil connection slightly to the right.

So, the newer coils have to be set slightly off straight or the test set appears not to work.

You can see the col sparks coming of the termina and in the small window to the right of the red spark plug connector for testing those.

STS.jpg

Here are a few pictures I took. There are many more on the Classtique Upholstery Facebook page.

Mike Francis
Classtique Upholstery

No, the steel washer is not used. It keeps the bearing and felt in position for the original type seal. The modern seal keeps the bearing in position by itself.

Thanks to all that posted. At this stage we don't know what may have been done in a previous restoration and we don't know how many variations there may have been at the factory. I've seen quite a few minor differences in other parts even on bodies that look to be original, so I'm sure doors would be no different.

Thank you!

It would make more sense , rather than take the dremel to the NH Carb, to adapt a carb such as an SU or Amal to the Model T intake to improve fuel flow.

tech_su_01d.jpg
SU-Carb-Weber-Carb.jpg

Unethical lawyers are a scourge on Humanity, especially when we elect and maintain them in public office or suffer them to be appointed to the Judiciary or other positions of authority.

Yes, although I should add that it would need to be in good condition and not worn out.

Takes me around 45 minutes to replace the turtle deck with the pickup box and vice versa. Most of that is reattaching the tail, brake and turn signal lights.

The 4 door sedan under the library coupe is an Overland.

I actually disconnected the shackles on one side and withdrew the perch and made sure the angle tipped the axle forward. It did.

Do you mean maybe tipped the axle backward ? The top end of the kingpin should be tilted back, toward the rear of the car.

Thanks Will. I'll look into it!

I have a small piece of a right housing that I bolt to the left of the rear end I'm working on that helps align the drive shaft to the left housing.
One other issue I had was the ends & bore of the tapered bearing housing were not concentric so you could change the clearance by rotating
the spool in the housing.
Craig.

Thanks. Yes I have the cotter pin out. I’ll rig up something to help press it out, not worried about the old pulley.

The fan pulley is convex with the widest part at the center so the belt is supposed to seek the widest part of the pulley and stay centered, but if the pulley has been worn flat, or the fan bushing or shaft is worn or bent, causing the fan to dip down, your guide is useful to help keep the belt centered on the pulley, even if it frays the edge of...

Yes, my camera is like me, getting old. 000_1202.JPG

Chris, sorry for not checking with you first. The photo popped up on a google image search. One of the guys in our club forgot to install a cotter pin in one of his wheel nuts. After a short drive the nut loosened and the wheel fell off...on a busy street of course. Nobody thought to get a photo - they were too busy dodging cars.

To seal a 3d printed parts they can be sealed using you choice if insulating coatings. Spray clears or brush on and let it soak in. For those that have access to it conformal coatings work great. For better results vacuum or pressure chambers push it deep in the pores. Black paint can be used with excellent results as long as it does not contain...

The tool box I had but later sold was a nice near mint box. The top wasn’t flat but had a very slight crown. It had very nice paint and patina and you could just see the slight crown and each corner to crown X that was pressed into the top when it was made. My thought is that it was that way to keep it from collecting water on the top. I never...

I reckon my irons/wood are going to be held by #8 or so round head machine screws with nuts, appropriately covered. I can’t see me alone wrangling these things on top of my anvil/vise trying to peen over rivets, but we’ll see!

Dan, Thanks for the information. I didn't think that it was right, so wanted to make sure. Those floorboard supports were on the rebuilt body when I bought it.

Here in Port Elizabeth, South Africa I do the rounds at various primary schools at this time of the year. The grade 4 pupils have transport as a topic as part of their social awareness syllabus where they also learn about Henry and his fabulous T without ever having seen one. I do a 30 minute pitch on the subject and it always gives me a great...

What about overseas assembly? I bet a bunch more were assembled and sold after the official end of production. Henry was not one to waste anything. I also understand that engines were made up to the 1940's.

Exactly. Canadian production is always overlooked. On that note, the number of Model T's produced overall would be closer to 16 million than...

...your tone and all-caps wording came across as condescending to me.
Aye, there's the rub. Written language can be read in different ways, some of them unintended. My post was written in exasperation, not condescension. :)

What measurement is missing move to top

Thanks for offering it, someone can probably make use of it.
shipping cost,don't know about it but the smell part is what concerns me going thru shipping.

George, I sent you a PM. I found this hub in my stash if you want it.

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Congratulations Ron on the 26k milestone! You are are one of the great ones in our hobby and enjoy our friendship. Here's to many more coils ! Kim

I know exactly what you mean! Got it done last night, thank you all again!

This has been posted many times on the forum over the years, but there are alway those who have never seen it: Www.pure-gas.org. Jim Patrick

I just installed one on a timer elevator, but I haven’t a way to post a video? I’ll see if I can get you an “action shot”

Maybe that Dropbox platform you see every now and then here on the forum. Or a YouTube video link...

Back to the top

And I appreciate the fact that ‘15 touring obviously has the original, never been reproduced, splash aprons.

Count your blessings!!! That's one of the benefits of living in a smaller community, and residents who see you and your T's around town doesn't hurt either. Really good news......

Keith

Thank you Mr. Bellows, what a great story! That man was a genius.

Here are more pictures of the C Cab. It's at the Model T Museum and will be sold on Saturday.

Don't miss this opportunity to buy a great-running Model T with upgraded brakes and axel!

Bids accepted until 2:00 Saturday, June 1.

Puller for Ford wire wheel hub. While the original pullers rule, they can be hard to find and pricey.

So, made similar from a common $13 pitman arm auto parts store china steel puller, just had to grind the jaws the proper spacing for the hub groove.

Modif hubpullercopy copy.jpg 193273.jpg 2019-09-20 14.12.39.jpg

After doing some measuring, I figured out that I stuck the driveshaft tube a bit too far into the ball when I riveted it. I can take it apart, shorten the tube, and put it back together. My lathe is just a bit too short for me to shorten the tube without taking it apart. Not a big problem, just one more thing to fix.

Change to a solenoid. Let the foot switch control the solenoid. That way your foot switches will last forever.
I like the ones from a 49/51 F series truck. They have a push button that can be use if your foot switch goes bad.

Yep. That's the better way. Rebuilt the Ford foot switch to clean the contacts and used new insulators, then fitted...

One of our machinist club members has been very successful using a vey similar method as Erik does. Using the tailstock to provide an accurate center and some heat to relieve stresses and after everything cools and relaxes it remains straight. He has used this method for some time with very good results. Sure seems like a much easier and much less...

Well at least they’re not deliberately destroying cars.

Exactly! They are out having fun, promoting the 'T Hobby' and aren't destroying the car. I enjoy watching their videos. I hope they do more!

Gotta learn somehow. While i do agree that not everything was done 100% right, they're out driving the car, enjoying it for what it is, and showing...

Smoked Pork Pattie sounds mighty good.

It sure does, wish I was closer!