MTFCA Forum

Thank you everyone who offered the parts I needed. Turned out that Mark Freimier from Model T Haven moved from his home state to Cocoa Florida just 20 miles from me. I was able to make a new friend and get all the parts I needed saving me a ton of money on shipping. Again, Thank you.

Don’t waste your money. Buy the 6 volt wired ones. They work good and you can see them even in the daytime. I know the ones I had are hanging on a hock in the garage.

I agree. Just get the kit from one of the vendors and be done with it! Barely a few hours work setting it up. I bought two amber
turn signal lamps actually for a Model A in...

How fast will your Model T go, 40mph, 45mph, 50mph? Doesn't matter because you only have brakes for 32mph. The real question is not how fast will it go but fast will it stop!

You are in the middle of the state. You have a couple of Model T experts on the east side of Iowa, John Williams and Dean Yoder. They are both on FB, but they do not look at it on a daily basis, but you could IM them.

frontyboy,
My BIL will disagree with you, if running a distributer the addition of a older MSD box will make a noticeable improvement especially under
heavy load & it has a chip in it. ( it mimics the T coils by firing the plug multiple times but with the precision of a single point ignition. ) OOPS :lol:
Craig.

David

Seems the plate is held in the housing with those circular like upsets, like small rivets. You might try to carefully pry the plate off the housing. That may free the internal spring and socket.

Going back together some sort of fasteners will be needed, as the spring behind the cup and bulb contact exerts some force. Maybe small Pop...

This is what TCP coatings told me

Kinda like a Politician's answer, ....huh.??.

Geez, there is not a thing wrong with spraying Epoxy primer over the top of the substrates to act as a Sealer, .... except you just spent many hours blocksanding to 400, -or 600 grit only to find yourself priming with Epoxy that now has left a slight orange-peel...

Made this quick chart for the later steering gear connecting rods (drag links).

Helpful for the later Ts. These are all forged ended Ford design.

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This is what I built with some junk wheels, broken Model A springs, old bed frame and some sheet stainless that I found at the dump. The hard part is making sure that everything is parallel. WIN_20241226_11_59_49_Pro.jpg WIN_20241226_11_59_39_Pro.jpg

Any older vehicle that has operated in road salt should be carefully inspected for structural damage from rust. Abuse or crash damage can also compromise structural integrity. A friend of mine had a new 1970 International Scout. He thrashed it from day one. When it was about a year old, it was up on a lift for some reason, and I noticed that 7 out...

Craig, thanks for the reply. I have the yoke you mentioned. I just needed the length. Thanks again. Jim

Correct, Miles - one would have to fabricate an over & under front wishbone arrangement.

I have done about 20 or so model ts, this is my last one.

Well, that's a humdinger for sure!

A new rebuild shouldn’t be that tight to begin with. If you rebuild an engine and you build it fairly tight use some lubriplate , STP at least a coat of oil on all the bearing surfaces. A coat of STP on the bearing surfaces works pretty well. Just a little makes the surfaces really slick.

A/C are what ya want...

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? Jeff can you get a T generator to put out enough @ the reduced speed?
Craig.

I'm not sure what those gear ratios are on those pulleys. Max output of a T gen is 100watts. P=VI, so 100w/6v=16.667 amps. I always recommend charge rates of 3-5A, so if it was a reduced speed, it would charge, yes. If you notice how the gen acts when a T is idling,...

Thank you. I am honored to have been selected. I certainly would have liked to have been present at the banquet following the National Tour, but it just wasn't possible without a passport. Our Kansas City Chuggers Model T Club held a separate local special event banquet where MTFCA President, Stu Tomlinson presented me the award plaque. I was very...

Peter's Kampcar seat would be a good choice to match the style of your T.

Steve Conniff =

Rocky Mountain Machine Co.
15931 Lake Mist Dr.
Monument, CO 80132
Phone 303-905-4605

OK it is a sure bet that only a Perfecto shifter will fit a Perfecto. So he has a Perfecto rear axle assembly missing the shifter for sale with the
driveshaft. They both look to have been worked on ( you can see by how clean they are & have new parts) but have no idea what was done.
is marked as having a 3.25:1 ring & pinion. He would like to...

I'd like to thank the good people who make Hellmann's mayonnaise for providing me with a replacement license plate lens for an electric tail light.

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: ^ )

My kit came with glue and i will probably use it. The glass was cut 1/4 less from front to rear (25-1/4 ) due to the hardback fuzzies. I also considered a screw but don't want it to come in contact with the glass sliding up and down. This morning I got the passenger door window in and the hooks attached to the top. It takes a lot of strength to...

Seems he also was making some T items for Lang’s a few years ago . Maybe they may know.

Like Neal, I try to spread the wealth among several. We are lucky to have Lang's, Birdhaven, Chaffin's, Snyder's, etc. I've bought parts from all of them.

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Stopping to shop at Birdhaven.

My wife says they tore the old farmhouse down that was in front of Birdhaven. I think he's considering moving his operations to...

I believe its purpose was to offer a hot rodding experience from the massive 20 hp engine we have…. And now that I know it was on there. I can only imagine the thoughts my grandfather had using it.

I’d like to put one back on it, but this one seems destined for the wall decor

I don't have an example of a Fisher heel panel to show how
it may be marked. I wasn't saying it should have a B but
maybe a F ? I was curious because I can't find a picture in
those I have or in old threads of the heel panel.

Your block casting date/stub shaft date and engine number
would also seem to indicate it was an original assembly.
Mine...

Great video Willy this helps tremendously. Really appreciate it. I try’d to comment on your YouTube video but it wouldn’t let me but I did subscribe. Thanks again for this!

If you are using a standard T oval tank, most I have seen have a depressed X pattern in the ends. A vinyl stick-on may not be the answer. A vehicle wrap type application should do the trick. Maybe neither will appreciate fuel being spilled over them.

Allan from down under

No windshield either, but it does have the spacer board...

That's a Neville slider although it's not for a T - it would be inverted to properly adjust the throttle & spark controls - hard to find a Model T style !

It's difficult to keep a belt on misaligned pulleys or pulleys with the crown worn flat.

I would wire it from the battery lead, (the thick yellow wire), with a switch placed in-line. That way, it can be used at any time, whether or not the car is running or if the headlights lights are turned on.

Thank you VERY MUCH for making this available. Doing this is good for the hobby, and probably will be good for your business as well, once people see what is involved in doing this work! As ever, doing things RIGHT takes time and commitment, and people can now see EXACTLY what it takes to do your level of work! (Which obviously is VERY HIGH!)...

Or when pointing to the left, they figure you're saying, Go around me over here . Nooooooooo!

Wonder if anyone did a video of that crossing?

Thank everyone for all the photos.

Thanks to both of you. Gives me something to compare against

Don’t forget - like I did - to cherry stain the firewall :o(

I got that!

Its a garden tractor. Car chassis with a TT axle for lower gearing.
The extra transmission for additional lower gearing. It needs iron tractor wheels similar to what you have shown.
Putting T wheels to turn into a TT truck? Its way cooler as a garden tractor.

We were wondering that! Guy that my friend got it from didn't know much of the...

The license plate bracket, taillight base with single socket are one piece.
The lense holder can is seperate. You basically need another tail light unit & will have to change the sockets in both to double sockets.
The stock light is a running light, no stop feature.

I wonder if that is the Schmidt house on side? :D

Afrom down under.

It’s the Schmit’s !

Terry- PM sent.

Dan, I didn't receive a PM from you. Best to sent email. Terry

I would skip installing rubber pads or shims.

They are door strikers. They are mounted on the B-pillars for the door latches.

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The area with four screw holes above the striker is for a dovetail.

Thank you, Tim

Ed fuller,

The vast majority were the result of a tight radius on the pins. Next in line were pin failures also, but with good radius yet the crack started in the radius- my conclusion on then was too rough of a stone/stone needed dressing. All it takes is a scratchy and thing can go wonky from there. On the throws…assorted….some were due to...

You need to check your timer. It is probably worn or dirty or needs lubricated with a light oil, if it is a Ford type timer. I suspect that dirt or gum in your fuel system is causing your carburetor issues. There are several things that can cause the problems you're having, and all can be usually be remedied without spending a lot of money or...

Very nice!

He's listed in the Search for members section. You can email from there.

The drive I have has a four start spiral gear and a 10 tooth fibre pinion gear which is well worn. The top right hole in the cover is round as usual. All the others are slotted. I presume this is to allow some sort of mesh adjustment between the spiral gear and the pinion.

Allan from down under.

In my experience, the mounting to the running board is full width and is bent from the top panel of the fender and has folded edges over an additional strengthening plate, just like the later fenders. The bracket which attaches to the splash apron is a separate piece, of heavier gauge material and is riveted on. Our RHD stuff originates fro...

This is a spare that I have, it is identical to the NOS one that I put into my new rebuild as you can see it is magnetic. Along side of it is a couple of brushes that I made from an old motor brush like the one behind. Jim

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Thanks Steve. I really feel uneasy about removing that valve stem. It seems like it is plastic! I guess I'll just have to do it, and if it doesn't work out, I'm out the cost of the tube.

On my ‘12 T I did what you did Keith but mounted it under the running board so I could keep the generator in place. Made up a bracket that used existing holes in the running board. I was a bit concerned about ground clearance but it’s been that way for a long time with no issues. IMG_0504.jpeg

You don't need the height to identify a low shell. If the sides are square the front, it is a low shell. If the sides are flared outwards to the rear, it is a high shell. The height may help if one is not aware of the above.
Allan from down under.

Thanks Joe, I sent you an email

I had the same problem when I bought my 15. Someone who owned the car before me installed a later dashboard and the coils could not be removed unless I removed the coilbox from the firewall. I cut the front of the coilbox and installed a hinge on the front bottom and closers like you use on the coil box top to keep the front secure. It works for...

I would think dues are broken down to what kind of club you are and would vary greatly. Are you a club that meets every month in a location and frequently gets together? Or are you a club that does everything online? I have moved around a bit and tried connecting with a local chapter only to find everything was done online, sort of begs the...

Thank you everyone

The lug ears on the 26-7 hogshead in Craig's post have been modified to allow it to fit. Normally the block side of the ears is flat against a flat land on the 26-7 block.
The 26-7 wide brake drum and its attendant driven plate will fit in a three dip pan with no modification. The wide brake band will not fit. There is nothing to stop you from...

That looks like the Tru-Fire ignition without the center piece that mounts on the cam shaft.

G’day Allan…. I didn’t realize I was promoting a sale to you. As you stated “You might like to try your hand making one”; I was only offering another style…. :oops:

Gloss black, in enamel. It is more resistant to chipping/damage when folding the top.

Allan from down under.

The big shifter fits all variations.
Allan from down under.

When building a speedster, every modification is likely to lead work-arounds later in the build. For example, If you use a dropped axle, you will have to consider which spindle arms to use. If you introduce a double wishbone, you may have to reconsider spindle arms again. Adding an accessory transmission leads to further compromises/alterations....

The stamping goes over the brazing. My 'guess' here is someone with humour did the fix and said 'I will patent that repair :lol: )!

If that don’t move you, you ain’t alive. Great video and original song(?). Who wrote it and sang it? Best John

I was asked to create a tribute article for the local newspaper. I put the article in to AI and asked AI to create original song lyrics and then another AI tool to create the music and vocals to go along with the new lyrics. That...

Thanks for your replies, Gents. The venturri in mine is not pot metal. Looks like someone made a steel or iron one for it in the past (magnetic). I see evidence that the choke plate has been removed and reinstalled. Maybe I got lucky. I'll probably replace a sway-back NH with it somewhere down the road and see what happens.

The flange on the valve stem and the ridge on the bridge washer make a physicsl connection when the stem is fitted. It should make no difference if the stem looks a little plasticy . All that is needed is some crush. Who knows? Maybe the new stuff won't ever blow off the brass stem tube like it has on tubes in the past.

Allan from down under.

I had a 1924 coupe. As I recall, it had something similar to hold the deck lid up, but somewhat different. This may have been from some other car, or even a piece of furniture or tool box.

Steve went to Pepperdine when he was in LA area before moving to farm life in Kansas.
George is sort of right about that, but there have really been two places with that name. In the sixties I graduated from what I consider the real Pepperdine — the college established in 1937 by Western Auto boss George Pepperdine at 79th and Vermont in Los...

Any help you can give me is much appreciated Richard!

Thanks,
Michael

I think I saw Uncle Fester waving from the roof !

DHort - I also advance a bit before cranking my Speedster. I have a WOSP starter and it needs a little advance to start. No problems so far. :D

Thanks for posting the picture, Dan.
I bought Otis from John Mays, as Will pointed out, in the spring of 2017. John had acquired it from another collector and, perhaps foolishly, I didn't get any details from him. Otis did come with a pair of very rusty 1914 New York license plates, so he might have resided in New York state at one time. Googling...

Hi Ben,
That is a very nice specimen although it may not be totally correct it has the memory of your grandfather in it. I would think that keeping it
as it is would be a tribute to him. I also think that he had a reason for what he chose when building it. Leave it as he built it & keep his
memory with every mile you drive it & share as much as...

Hi John, I absolutely love the manifold, dual carbs, vaporizer exhaust. What is that casting? Allan with all that going on you noticed the
cutout?
Craig.

Thanks Craig.
The exhaust casting is a mystery part found on tbay.
Fits the hot plate pattern near perfect. no gasket. I speculated it was from a knight sleeve valve motor or tractor.

Very slow cooling after pouring will normalize a casting like an engine block, but that is not compatible with mass production. The T block must have been a pretty good design, since they are not known for cracking except as a result of abuse. I have no idea how they cast so many blocks so rapidly, but whatever they did seemed to work well. They...

A 1927 Western Auto catalog offers a counterbalanced crankshaft that appears to be identical to the one in the OP's picture. (Cimorelli)