MTFCA Forum

On mine, the lens was loose and just slapped JB Weld over the edges. Can’t fall out now :shock:

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(6v LED stop / tail lamp)

And, found that on bumpy roads the door flew open, a lace of wire fixed that. ;)

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In my experience, the folded edge on the pan was a progressive introduction. The edges were folded down either side of the pan ears. When the ears were modified, the entire edge was rolled down. Some time later the pressed reinforcements were added either side of the radius rod ball socket.
The pan on my 1917 has the folded edge but no reinforcing...

While my early '26 touring made it to me quite original and unrestored without excessive wear there are a few things that make you think.
And not just how it survived being in a barn that collapsed on it.
Only body bolts #2 on both sides are 3/8 carriage bolts with washers. The rest are all the expected 7/16-20 bolts.
I can not prove for sure if...

I bought a flat tube radiator for my 26 from Brassworks this last winter. A little pricey but I got it in about 2 weeks. Looks good, fit good, and cools great.

Hey Professor... How was your ride?... Weather was great!.

Had a chance to check the triple gear pins?

72nd LBMTC Swap Meet will be Saturday July 18, 2026 at Cerritos College in Norwalk, CA. near the intersection of the 91 and 605 freeways. We will surely enjoy being in the shade under the newly installed solar panels! Put it on your calendar now so you don't miss it!

Dan... Many thanks again, appreciate your help.

All years '17-'27

#3006 Cyl head inlet hose (upper) 2 Dia. x 4 L. (Brass radiator, '09-'16 2 Dia. x 3 1/4 L)

#3944 Outlet hose(s) (lower) 1 3/4 Dia. x 2 3/4 L

My first thought it was a contemporary wheel off a Chevrolet. But probably an aftermarket buy, the six lugs indicating a slightly heavier wheel?

Kieth, Tim, I agree with both of you ! And I’m curious about the T. To me, it looks too short for a TT, but the heavy rear wheel looks TT. Special chassis ? Optical illusion ?

The camper...

Please disregard, this is a duplicate! Senior moment!

One drive around the block with an E-Timer was all it took to know I had to have one. That was nine years ago, and it's been 100% reliable.
Similarly, the ECCT with software is a must have tool for coil analysis and adjustment.

Hi Kevin,

Glad you joined the forum! Thanks to you & the other gentlemen for the kind words. Honestly I transport many 6 figure+ vehicles, but they don't have the background/history/story that yours does & it really gives me a great feeling to be a part of the journey.

Here is that picture when I caught you guys trying to step out of frame!...

Even if the tube are clear and it flows good it still may not cool. Over time the the fins are no longer in good contact with the tubes and can not dissipate the heat. As noted Brass Works is the only one making new radiators. They do have a back log.

Great pictures as always.
The first picture and the 9th picture have the same touring car in them.

Fortunately there's a lot of information available, much of it inexpensive or free.
These pages may help:

Great information and thank you so much for taking the time to do this work. Being a Heinz coil runner in my 1912 (and having 3 sets of coils to rebuild) I watch this with immense interest. I can't thank you enough!

The rest of the story is they were made in West Virginia by a member of the Paul family that made 50 specials using original 1922 dies and the E was added to keep the metal from warping.

Cliff Jenkins has the rest of this story his book, My first 50 Years .

I figured it out. A spring goes on the end that I was missing and the adjustment is 2 nuts that slide the entire back section forward and backwards. Here is a quick video of the sound after I got it adjusted.

Thank you very much for the information

Then, if you don't get the magazine with your number on top of the address, you have move without leaving a new address or your dues have expired.

Got the Carb on and seems to start and run fine. Thanks for the advice and help with that issue. We did find another issue I will make a new post for that and get some advice.
Thank you
Gerald

This is how it is on my 1924 Runabout.
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Sent you a message.

Chris Instness

Day 5. Reynolds Museum

If you are getting detonation, back off on your spark advance. Your .25 clearance should be plenty. How much total advance are you running now? If much more than about 25 degree,s timing might well be your problem.

I think I have answered my own question. Looked in Bruce’s book, page 258 , 1917-1920 wood firewall hood support.
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See top left corner where yellow circle is.
Thanks for his great work on that book. Dan

Stu Tomlinson texted me about how great this tour is. Great to see Ed and Karen.

In general the casting are more prone to cracking than a rajo or fronty. The rocker arm base/mounts are prone to breaking.

I find it interesting that the Speedometer wrench is listed on an April 1912 tool list.
I though the threaded speedometer pinion gear nut was a feature for 1911 only?

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Welcome. All clubs in Michigan are associated with the MTFCI - two, Piquette and Northern Michigan T's are affiliated with the MTFCA as well. Looking at the chapter listings I found this in your area:
Model T Flivver's
Roger Hoheneder
N 2705 River Dr.
Wallace, MI 49893
A great Wisconsin club (although not too near to you) is the Dairyland Tin...

The MTFCI has Model T Flivver's c/o Roger Hoheneder N 2705 River Dr. Wallace, MI 49893

Not real close but a great MTFCA Wisconsin Club Dairyland Tin Lizzies c/o Pete Humphrey West Bend, WI 53095-8744 (google them)

Note: All Michigan clubs are affiliated with the MTFCI, two are jointly associated with the MTFCA (Piquette and N. Michigan T's.) The...

I use Vaovoline synthetic from Walmart. Everything in my T is stock except Kevlar bands. I have not experienced problems with the oil. At least not anymore than with other oils except that there is much less sludge in the crankcase than with the pariffin based oils.
Norm

Not sure of the wording, but I do have a color cross section of this assembly that shows the placement of this hole quite clearly and its alignment with Grease/Dope Cup 2545.

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How did you fit the replacement bushing?
Is it a split steel bushing like the originals?
If it is a new bronze bushing, was it machined down on the OD so it could be easily worked home?

Allan from down under.

Drain it, just a thought.

Yes, I believe round and pointy is right. You may not need to buy a new needle:

Ok, that is exactly the sort of solution I would imagine the Model T guys would come up with. I like it.

It might be the angle of the photo or snow on the core, but that radiator looks to have the cooling fins removed. Screenshot (213).png

Richard, I still haven't tackled the top as yet, if you were referring to my car. Getting close and looking for the right person in my area to install the top. I have some pretty serious back problems so it is hard to do the gymnastics associated with that work. Back surgery in the near future. I have a Classtique top kit that looks like it will...

PayPal to Friends & Family should only be used when you know the other party. With respect to the Forum its easy to recognize frequent users & see how long they have been a member to add some confidence in using PayPal to send them funds & receive items more quickly. Checks take to to be delivered, can get lost in the mail, & the seller should...

Good news!..

The ones I have seen Morgan used a rubber wheel as you are stating with light spring pressure from an arm. Turned out it was pretty accurate.

Some previous owner painted the rear drums on my T with whatever. I only have the brakes that the car left the factory with, and have owned it for almost 15 years; I only use the parking brake to park. The outside of the drums look fine. As has been said, if you have some kind of an auxiliary brake that contacts outside of the drum, I would not...

TT Shackle with Ford script on the nut.

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Left spring with script

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Ford advertised a running listing of all the T parts marked with script!

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I have a HCCT you are welcome to use to test them with in Tiffin Ohio.

There is NO EQUAL to the man, his way of doing business, and the care and concern he has for customer’s cars and his equipment.
Y’all will never be disappointed with Bill Squires. He is Family to MTFCA and Car Owners!

I went through this a few years back. I built the area back up with weld and then used a die grinder to get it back to the original geometry. It’s been working fine since.

I started a thread here (Rejuvenating cam on clutch pedal) but I didn’t post photos of the result. I’ll see if I can find photos of the finished part.

I believe the splash shields on all body styles were the same in 1913.

I'm surprised you can still get one. I wonder what else uses that size?

The weather held out and it was a really cool adventure. Thanks Joe & Tami for putting this together! What a great group of people. You all are what makes this hobby so special to be a part of!

Nota my Channel, musta be a youa Channel.

In late 24 firewall was modified with that lower oval hole, then in 25 the choke bell crank was deleted and the new “26” style combo choke and carb adj u-joint swivel on the NH carb used that oval hole. These 25s fitted with that carb setup just prior to the Improved Car for 26 model year.

Henry’s constant design changes ;)

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Looks like they had a good day grouse hunting. Looking at the shotguns, wondering if the pump was amodel 97 but it doesn't look right. The middle gun with the hammers is similar to my great grandad and still with someone in the family.

This old Giant Equipment brochure was posted on Facebook back in may. Judging by the early phone number it’s 1950s, since they changed to the 7 digit phone numbers in 1958-59.

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Thanks all. I bought a 12V battery.

As many times as I've driven across Missouri, I haven't made it to Appleton City yet.
Maybe someday.

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I don't know specifically what they are, other than being T-based speedsters.

The original poster specifically inquired about Mercury, Paco, or similar period correct speedsters.
Not T-based speedsters, as a general category.

There is a complete 1909 REO car for sale in Montana. It is a Vanderbrink Auction. here is the link to the auction. I also have it in a separate thread here in the Forum.

It is lot # 303M

Sherman is a little over an hour from me. I'm listed in both magazines, or a family member is. Have them give me a call, or send a text through here. Charlie

Here are some links to previous discussions to add to some confusion
Dave Sosnoski researching handles
Differences
Regulator for 1926 to 1931

Thanks Frank for posting the links. The last one was to my own old post in 2011. I had forgotten about that post. It's Hell to get old.

My apologies - I meant long gone as in retired ! Erik B. would know if he's still on the planet.

I've seen the B tanks hung from the rear cross member of the frame, if that's any help whatsoever. (Not on Model T's, of course)

It was a long time ago, but if I recall correctly? These can be easily adapted to fit and work on a model T car. The biggest problem is that the magneto sits out somewhat beyond the outside of the frame rail. Not much of a problem for some speedsters, however a stock bodied car with stock hood has a real problem with the aesthetics.
The other main...

Fuse was the problem! A visual said element was not blown but ohm reading proved otherwise. Because of gen/ voltage reg problems, I have 6 v alternator on there now.

Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but these rims were a one year (1919) deal. Then Ford went to the rims with integral lugs. These rims are also used on Buffalo Disc wheels, but with a heavy retainer ring that went around the entire rim and the retainer ring was held in place with 4 lug bolts. Just FYI...........

What a great picture of an Aussie T. I like the water bag location

The tube shifting in the tyre happens when the tyre is underinflated. The valve stem hole in the rim and the same in the felloe will tend to hold the valve stem vertical, so when the tube wants to shift it will tend to tear away from the stem. The same can happen with metal stem tubes. The correct tyre pressure is the answer.

On a 21 flat based...

When I repaired our fenders, i replaced the wire and put a bead undernaeth the cracks. Saw my uncle do that on a VW Beetle. The insurance man said that after an accident that it needed a bead to reinforce the area. He said that too soon, as the bead was already there.

This page about cooling and flushing may help:

These videos show flushing:

I sent two of those otherwise great shape coils to someone in the mid-west to rebuild.

When I asked about them two years later, I was told they needed new points and none were available.

Evidently there are still no points available!

When I restored my Model N, I used the original Heinze coils. They all needed new points. I think RV may made...

In the front pages of club magazine.

Thanks Kim!

Here's my work in progress....still need to add the springs, retainers and pins....but the more I look at this and the further I go, I am starting to see that I'm going to have to add a few things I hadn't planed on (cross sections of a valve line....the relationship of the valve to guide position in block, to spring, retainer, pin,...

Thanks much!

I ended up putting a 90* on the backside of the intake.

It's not visible except for the vacuum hose, if I were to plug it, at the 90 or with the 90 removed. it would not be visible at all.

Eagads, loctite instead of safety wire?!

maybe this is what you are looking for?

Spent the day touring with the love birds, July 5th. It was amazing to see the both of them sitting side by side enjoying their time together with their model t friends. You could tell just being around them they are still the young couple in love.

just sayin'

frontyboy

An old radiator man told me to use ground ginger, I have used it on many vehicles and it always works. Those seal tabs that come with a new GM water pump are ground ginger, I some times find it at the Dollar Store, I use about 1/2 a jar (about 3 1/2 in tall) for a T. Put it in a hot engine and dissolve it in a cup of hot water before adding and...

I see what you mean, might it be better then to make an adapter bracket that basically does a 90 degree turn to put 3 bolt holes on the top but still use the side mount?

Thanks for the offers. We will retrieve the car and trailer tomorrow and bring it home to KY!

After days of playing with it, I answered my own question. The passenger latch does not lock from the inside as they purposefully cut and bent a tab down to prevent the lever from being pulled back (no position 3 for right side).
Also, if you were to lock the door with a key from the outside, it can not be unlocked from the inside.
The knob is 1/4...

The graphite/enamel/mineral spirits mix does harden and provides great slickness between the leafs. After applying, assemble the leafs together and tighten, then clean off any mix on the outside edges, tops and bottoms of the assembled springs with mineral spirits and paint with a gloss black paint of your choice. I brush painted mine with gloss...

Mine are pressurised via the rocker cover hold down stud. Stands are in steel and clamp onto the shaft so shafts can be used for oil ways.

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I have one spare but it's in Australia.

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Good to hear Mark. Some thing I learned the hard way is only use a file or aluminum oxide paper, real sand paper ( silica sand ) can turn into glass
when exposed to heat ( arc ) making it a insulator. Like I said the hard way!
Craig.

Photo 6 is a very rare Doctor's Roadster!

I'll check this stuff out and get back to you. Thanks everyone.

Mike

St. Louis changed their parade to sometime in the fall, so we headed to the St. Charles, Mo parade. It seemed to have considerably more attendees than the past several downtown STL parades. Four cars attended and a good time was had despite the temps and lack of shade

Great! Happy you got it solved.