MTFCA Forum

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Not sure how they would work. Interesting accessory.

Aaron

you mentioned that you had good strong spark when plugs are out of the car but no spark when IN the car

I am going to assume you have concluded this because 2 cylinders are not firing as indicated by shorting the plugs out with a screwdriver and the car remained operating the same when 2 specific plugs were shorted...If I am correct in...

This is my 1925 pickup. I've driven it over 1000 miles recently without lifting the floorboards. It was worth it.

Since half the time forum members can’t agree on torque specs it’s probably not a big deal.

Andy

Torque spec aside, wouldn't a simple solution be to use the extension when tightening ALL of the headbolts, not just the headbolts near the firewall? Wouldn't that guarantee uniformity?

Awww… thanks for the recognition Steve. But I can’t find my calendar now. :oops:

Here's a few more pictures from the rally. It was a wonderful week of touring around some delightful historical locations in an area established from the discovery of gold in the late 1800's. Lots of beautiful buildings and nice quiet country roads to drive on. Caught a picture of Allan working away at a lunch stop repairing a noisy fan, also...

My 24 was begun with far less than the burnt T. It took me 13 years to make it a running, drivable vehicle.

I’m currently building a Centerdoor sedan from a pile of parts. But at least it had a complete body to start with.

Probably one misstatement on this link regarding the 2nd Saturday of August.

Your best bet is to find a 1926 Ruckstell housing. Maybe you maybe able to trade you small side for a 1926?

Thanks for the Info.

7:00 AM tomorrow. All systems are a go. See you there.

Sorry, I never followed up with this post.

All 3 bands were installed backwards with the detachable ear on the passenger side.
Turns out the band that popped loose was a generic band and the other 2 were Ford.
We replaced the generic band with a Ford band after removing the HH and now all bands are correctly installed.
Speedster is running well....

Here is one brand, these came in pair, normally one red and one green.

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I have been fiddling with this for a few years and have made some very successful prototypes. They simply replace the original magnets with aluminum/rare earth pieces which lighten the flywheel about eight pounds and increase voltage by 30 to 40 percent with a mag gap of nearly 1/8 inch. Originally used samarium cobalt magnets which have a maximum...

It's interesting that Henry was bragging that it was not an 'assembled' car.

It is interesting to note that statement, which was fact, not a boast. Although Ford jobbed out the manufacture of components, the Model T was Ford’s concept and unlike any other. To make the distinction, there were not a few companies in that era, eager to get into...

I actually agree with Scott, altho I'm still gonna use my blinkers , cops here haven't said a word about 'em, and frankly, the
REAL threat the past 4 years has been all these impatient assholes who insist on threatening everyone's lives by passing on a
double-solid-yellow no passing zone, often involving steep, blind hills. Just had a blonde...

A Model A Ford horn kit might have a large enough diaphragm.

Dogs have been driving since 1914. :lol:

:lol: :lol: :lol:

That is same email I got.

Photo #6: three men in the ‘10 or ‘11 touring— A hood with louvers ? and the most unusual front axle shock absorbers. Anybody seen these before ?

There are two kinds of shocks.
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The more popular Hartford style.
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The other coil is one I haven't seen. Coil is round stock...

Mike. We have a 1929 Zagelmeyer pop up tent that we tow with our 1927 Model T touring. It has wire wheels on it that match out car. So only one spare needed. We have Sure Stop Disc brakes on the car so it stops good on good roads. But we are going to add electric trailer brakes this winter. That way I'll feel more comfortable pulling it on gravel....

Yes................

Well, as I've been warning for over a year.... beware of AI, as it obviously strikes again. Or at least could be. Yes, she may be real , but don't be so sure. Don't believe me? Or don't WANT to believe it? Type in Tilly Norwood in Google and be prepared for the shock of your life people. The actual article about her for some stupid reason won't...

Mike Kosser wrote a simple procedure to verify the timer moves far enough between full retard and full advance.
Basically the timer needs to move at least 0.91 to get full range and best performance on any timer you use.
I stole them and have posted them here.

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what oil would you say I use? like a heavier gear oil or even a grease or should it be lighter?

I use ordinary engine oil, some use grease. Not sure it makes a difference.

When using oil I soak the felt, not just a coating.

What is the space at Hershey?

That is fantastic information, mine is just a locking wheel then ! Thanks again !

I drained the 2 year old fuel and bought a new battery. I'll hopefully do more when I feel up to it.

There ya go. With all those applications their out there.

I place it sitting verticallly on a piece of carpet, or cardboard, or even grass. Folding it in a sort of W configuration.

Sent you a PM.

Classified.

Run the composite gasket- sealing a solid copper head gasket on a T motor is problematic due to the lack of sufficient head bolts to develop sufficient clamp pressure. The composite gaskets are pretty much trouble free. Coating them with white grease before installation works well. Spraying them with Copper Coat works well also, but you will...

So the presumption is the short switch was used on enclosed cars. Open cars have a switch extension.
What about the tall switch?
Looked @ a few T's I have easy access to. 23 touring uses a short switch with the extension.
27 coupe uses the tall switch. With the thick carpet, the switch is well placed with the button just above the carpet top.
27...

I bought 5 Universal white tires 13 months ago. Each has developed random brownish stains now. I thought to replace with all gray tires, perhaps wishing for aesthetic relief. I suppose I could wait another year for the tires to be completely stained brownish, at least the appearance would be consistent. Or paint all with white tire paint.

Wayne Sheldon, you do not dissapoint!

I’m wondering how “old” the radiator actually is. The packing crate doesn’t look that old to me. Are we sure radiators were put in crates with the net wire braded on that way. The crate looks more modern than the radiator. In no way am I a forum expert as they say.
But the crate looks questionable to me. Another example of people thinking any old...

I wonder what they weigh....?

I just looked more closely at the photo. The license plate is 1929 New York. Well within the time frame a lightning bolt could have been borrowed from a Marmon.

The only repop I have had experience with did not physically fit. In tyring to make good I found that the potmetal housing was way softer than the original more like lead than die-cast.
Allan from down under.

Maybe because I emailed them and asked them about getting spaces. Only thing is, I can’t be there on Monday. I can only get there on Wednesday….

I presume that is the December 1905 issue of Country Life.

Sent email.

I see.

2 posts about the same thing at the same time.

I am so confused. Both are old postings..

Still, good advice, nonetheless! :)

Status update, the bolt slid half way in, my driving got it that far but it hasn't moved past the half way point. I am wondering if I should loosen the u bolts a bit more and it might slide in because those u bolts are tight, if I loosen then it might slide the rest of the way into the cross member. How bad if an idea is that?

Don't make this mistake I made. After reading a few posts and taking out the roller bearing and the liner from my rear axle I saw what I thought was the remnant of an inner seal. It was covered in grease. Pulling with a hook on the end of sturdy wire didn't budge it. I made a tool out of 1/8 flat stock with a handle I could hammer on ... it still...

Thank you Junk poor. If you decide to sell the one for the Fordson Tractor let me know. I sent you a PM a few days ago. Thanks Matt

This is plans for a Ford dealership which looks like contracted by Firestone.
Question is did Henry have a deal with Harvey to build his dealerships. Was this another requirement for dealers?

In response to two questions, I purchased my .327 valves and the reamer shown in the 2 pictures from Snyder's.

Got message and sent reply email. Have fun touring.

BOOM! Frank, you the man!

The body trim pieces are made of aluminum or some sort of pot metal. I have a 24 Coupe and some of the trim pieces were a little loose. They are nailed on and I was sucessful renailing back on.
The two pieces that sort of snap on the rear trunk back were about to fall off but were still there and I was lucky they didn’t on my car.
At the time I...

Thanks, Dan

Todd and his team will make it to Carlsbad today! Their Coast to Coast drive is very challenging and it's amazing how well their T has been running so far with some over 300 mile days. Check out their journey if you haven't on Facebook or just Google his name to watch several videos.

Several members of our Orange County club plan to drive their...

From the ‘28 Winfield catalog;

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And my flow estimates for the S/SR series carbs. Dual carbs is said to reduce efficiency by 20%

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I was lined up at the counter ready to pay for two of the three hole early wrenches at Ford n' More, { now Model T Ranch} in Spokane, when i counted just 6 flats on the hubcap wrench end. It took me years to find the real deal for my 1912 van toolkit.

Allan from down under.

Look here:

What a great idea! I recently used a paper coffee cup to keep scrub water out of the wheel bearings when cleaning up the long neglected Hayes wire wheels on the '14 Touring. It worked great but took two of them as they soaked through eventually.

Paul

The steam holes, Those which you show and also the ones at the front and rear corners of the block and head should be completely sealed when the head is bolted down. If the bolts are too long, the head gasket will not seal the steam holes and allow water to seep out. The ones in the corners will allow water to leak and it is behind the manifold so...

Shaft on this generator, may be may be slightly worn down. The new run of gears do slide on okay but will slow slight play on the shaft.... Question... Do you think heating the gear and then quenching would reduce the inner diameter of that gear?

Free starts require T coils & fuel in the cylinder that sparks. Sometimes cranking to achieve the correct piston to spark timing. I have dabbled
with the idea of setting up a system for making it easier to accomplish this ( purchased the parts) but time has not been allocated to complete
& test. Using explosion whistle adaptors, very long reach...

Minimal to none.
There are spring steel bearing tensioner spacers available to go under the rear bearing to take away that slop.
You can also drop in an extra generator felt seal in under the bearing that will take out the play.

This one is mine:

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Thanks for that idea ,

LOL I'll have to remember to do that. ;)

Mikhail,
Is that a Tatra in front of your touring car?
This inquiring mind wants to know.

Excellent work on your side curtains.

The correct front and rear straps for 1917 are cotton webbing, not leather. The hooks and buckles shown in your photos won't work with the cotton webbing. The correct hooks and buckles are serrated.

You can use the hardware/buckles you have with your two-man top if you make new leather straps.

Otherwise, Langs sells everything you need...

I use the woven seal from a Model A for the front seal on the crankcase and timing cover. I leave the ends of the felt at the block to hogs head long and work the felt into the groove with a bit of gasket seal. They do tend to leak a bit where the crankcase and the joint between the engine and hogshead come together. Also a bit around the 4th main...

Nine years ago I bought this.
Today, for the first time, i drove it a mile.

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OK, good to know, because everyone has been addressing the fit of a Ford stock low head.

I have restored rust pitted items for bright nickel by plating with copper, sanding between applications similar to using a primer surfacer to eliminate imperfections before finishing with paint. You need to have a plater who will work with you, allowing you to block sand between applications of copper until all the pits are filled : labor in...

Had this in my file on heads

More digging and information from the web.

AI Summary

To understand the TIED organization in Minnesota during the 1920s, consider the following points:

TIED stands for the Twin Cities Industrial Education Department, focusing on vocational training.
Established to address the growing need for skilled labor in industrial sectors.
Promoted...

I had one of those equalizers on my car for a short while. Rocky Mountain brakes are better, but I think there was a little bit of benefit to that setup.

The item on the left is what I used for the windshield.
I remember now trying to install the item on the right into the door glass channel and it would not fit. The problem must have been the laminated glass and at the time, I decided to do without. Maybe I tried the wrong item.

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A band-aid fix? herein lies your problem.
A late hogshead and early block...your leaks may be the least of your troubles.

Thanks for that link. I can see that retro photography is a hobby all of its own. The results are worthy of the effort.

Paul

This is not a criticism, but an observation: since you are asking those questions, this is your first rebuild, and as such, you are almost certainly not aware of other questions regarding wear/tolerances which are critical to a safe and reliable rebuild. If this is the case, then you need to order a rear axle rebuild book from any of the usual...

That filler neck will fall off again if it isn’t mechanically attached to the tank somehow before it is sealed with solder.

Maybe... maybe not.

It's been maybe 25 years that I've had my Speedster. I bought a really nice, freshly re-cored radiator for it at a swap meet for only $150. When I went to use the radiator, I noticed that the upper...

Of course I meant that in total mockery of AI and would also like to thank Big Daddy Ed Roth for his artwork!

Tom

The Model T radiator core was also used in some of the fork lift tools.

There is someone still making them, as an old radiator shop in Baltimore, MD is still redoing the Model T radiators with them.

Jim
Do you know there business name?

Bryant

Someone was making these up a few years ago. I bought one but never installed it and ended up donating it to the Orange County Model T Club to auction off. As I recall, it got a lot of bids.

Paul

Shine a light up inside the cylinder and look for any evidence of trouble.

Thank you that clears up on more issue.